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Magazine of Rome
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LITTLE GUIDE TO EVENTS IN THE CITY
ROME
free press mensile / numero 2 / March
IndexEventsExhib
Stories of RomeMuseums
Entertainment
WWELCOME
03Welcome
WELCOMEmensile di informazione culturale.
Numero 2 – Marzo 2009Reg. Tribunale di RomaEditore: Melusina EdizioniDirettore editoriale: Fabrizio Sette Direttore responsabile: Simone ConteTraduzioni a cura di Tim SmitProgetto grafico: EmpaticSito Web: welcomeroma.euStampa: Flyeralarm srl, via Pillhof 25, 39057, Frangarto (BZ)Redazione: Via F. Bonfiglio 55, 00168, RomaEmail: [email protected]
WChi siamo?
Welcome Welcome è uno strumento mirato per ampliare la visibilità di tutte quelle realtà che si occupano di turismo, intrattenimento e prodotti made in Italy (abbigliamento, enogastronomia e artigianato di alta qualità). E’ un supporto innovativo e accattivante, dedicato ai turisti ma in grado di incuriosire anche i lettori italiani che, trovandolo nei luoghi più frequentati, conosceranno un prodotto editoriale senza precedenti. Pubblicizzare la propria attività su Welcome garantirà un notevole ritorno di immagine.
MAGAZINE IN LINGUA INGLESE A DISTRIBUZIONE GRATUITAOLTRE 150 PUNTI DI DISTRIBUZIONE NEL CUORE DI ROMAHOTEL DI LUSSO HANNO SCELTO WELCOME PER INFORMARE I PROPRI CLIENTI SUGLI EVENTI CULTURALI PRESENTI IN CITTÀTUTTI I NUMERI SONO SCARICABILI DA INTERNET
Vuoi fare pubblicità su Welcome? Chiama il 393.8732511 o scrivi a [email protected]
Ev
Events in RomeDate / Hours / Tickets
/ Info
05Welcome
EVENTS
Music
EvIndex
Exhib Sport08 VALERY
GERGIEV Parco della Musica KENNY BARRON Parco della Musica SKA P Palalotto-matica WAYNE SHORTER QUARTET Parco della Musica ALExANDER LONQUICH Parco della Musica OMARA PORTUONDO “GRACIAS” Parco della Musica IPHIGéNIE EN AULIDE Teatro dell’opera
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01 JULIUS CAESARChiostro del Bramante
DARWINPalazzo delle Esposizioni
FUTURISMScuderie del Quirinale
01
01
11 A. S. ROMA VS ARSENALFootball
ITALY VS WALES Rugby
ITALY VS FRANCE Rugby
A. S. ROMA VS JUVENTUSFootball
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21
06 Welcome
March Events
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Addresses & Info
JULIUS CAESARChiostro del Bramante10.00/20.00 E 7/10 Via della Pace06 68809035
VALERY GERGIEV Parco della musica 18.00 E 18/47Viale P. de Coubertin06 8082058
DARWIN Palazzo delle esposizioni10.00/210.00 E 7.50 / 12.50Via Nazionale 19406 39967200
A. S. ROMA – ARSENALStadio Olimpico 20.45 E 20/250Via Foro Italico 1 199.109.783
FUTURISMScuderie del Quirinale10.00/20.00 E 7/10Via xxIV Maggio 1606 39967500
K. BARRON JAZZ Parco della musica 21.00 E 15Viale P. de Coubertin199.109.783
EvA&I
ITALY VS WALES Stadio Flaminio 16.00 E 20 / 99Viale Maresciallo Pilsudski www.listicket.it
ITALY VS FRANCE Stadio Flaminio 14.15 E 20 / 99Viale Maresciallo Pilsudski www.listicket.it
SKA P Palalottomatica 21.00 E 28.75 P. le dello Sport www.greenticket.it
WAYNE SHORTER QUARTET Parco della musica 21.00 E 20/30Viale P. de Coubertin199.109.783
A. S. ROMA VS JUVENTUS Stadio Olimpico 20.30 E 20 / 250Via Foro Italico 1 06 6786514
ALExANDER LONQUICH Parco della musica 18.00 E 18/33Viale P. de Coubertin 06 8082058
OMARA PORTUONDO “GRACIAS” Parco della musica21.00 E 20 / 30Viale P. de Coubertin 199.109.783
IPHIGéNIE EN AULIDE Teatro dell’Opera 16.30 E 17 / 100P. zza B. Gigli 7 06 48160255
07Welcome
08 Welcome
Exhibitions in RomeReview
ExEXHIBIT
ExArt
Futurism
At the centennial of the
publication of the manifest – which appeared on the Parisian newspaper “Le Figaro” on February 20th 1909 – the Quirinal Stables dedicate a very important exposition to Futurism.
The exhibition gathers an impressive number of masterpieces of early Futurism, and holds even those works exposed at the grand Futurism exhibition held in Paris in 1912, and exhibition that caused quite a rumour. In only a short time the ideas of “speed” and ”dynamism” were spread across the world, helping the redefine contemporary art
along the lines of a modern vision. Interestingly, the exhibit exalts the cultural bonds and the tight formal relationships between cubism and futurism, with a large selection of cubistic works able to testify the similarities and differences between the two artistic movements. Amongst the most famous works we may find: Le grand nu by G. Braque, or Picasso’s Femme assise dans un fauteuil. U. Boccioni is present with his Costruzione orizzontale and Le forze di una strada whereas we also see Le nuotatrici by C. Carrà and Nu descendant l’escalier of M. Duchamp. Apart from those masters,
Avanguardia Avanguardie
the exhibit boasts numerous historic works coming from the most important international collections.
FEBRUARY 20THMAY 24TH 2009Scuderie del Quirinale
Opening Hours / 10-20 Tickets / E 7/10 Address / Via xxIV Maggio 16 Telephone / 06 39967500 Closed / Mondays
09Welcome
ExArt
For the first time ever, both for Ital and the
world, an exhibit dedicated to one of the most important figures in Roman history: Julius Caesar, the first “dictator”, creator of the empire and of its
greatness.
The exhibit parts from Caesar himself and his closest spheres, both political and cultural, signing the most important moments in his rise to power: the military campaigns that gave him glory, the Egyptian adventure and the encounter with Cleopatra. It also shows the cultural and artistic environment in Rome in these days, up to Caesar’s death in 44 BC.
Numerous archaeological artefacts and artistic representations document the story and the legend of Caesar from medieval times to our days.
The man, the exploits, the myth
10 Welcome
Julius Caesar
The world chronicles abound in entries on Caesar, being a key personality in the transition from Roman republic to Roman Empire. Though never becoming Emperor himself, he laid the foundations of a new order that would’ve made Rome the greatest power of antique times and an important factor in the development of European civilization.
FEBRUARY 20TH UNTIL MAY 3RD 2009Chiostro del Bramante
Opening Hours / 10-20 Tickets / E 7/10 Address / Via della Pace Telephone / 06 68809035 Closed / Mondays
ExArtDarwin
At the 200th anniversary of his birth
the city of Rome hosts the greatest exhibit ever organised in the honour of the famous English naturalist Charles Darwin, whose theories today are still a hot topic in the cultural debate. The exhibit combines different ways of looking at Darwin using the languages of history, storytelling, naturalism, scientific philosophy and contemporary experimental research.
Among the many features of Darwin’s life we find his adventures as a young man, his family relations, his immersion into the English culture of
his day and his five-year trip around the world, which all contribute to the creation of this revolutionary idea. The exhibit tells us about Darwin’s initial questions, the encouraging discoveries, the first phases of shaping the “idea”, the insecurities and fears, the long silence and finally the publication of “On the origin of species” that caused quite a row, as well as sensation, in 1859.
The exhibit, first presented in New York, in its Italian version has been cured by Niels Eldredge, head of the department of invertebrae of the American Museum of Natural History in New York, with the help of Ian
1809 – 2009
Tattersall, director of the Hall of Human Evolution at the same museum.
FEBRUARY 12TH MAY 3TH 2009 Palazzo delle esposizioni
Opening Hours / 10-20 Tickets / E 7,5 /12,5 Address / Via Nazionale 194 Telephone / 06 39967500 Closed / Mondays
11Welcome
12 Welcome
Stories of RomeLegends and stories
ExSTORIES
ExStories
The “talking” apostles
Pope Sixtus V (1585-1590) has gone
down in history as a very sever man. Indeed right after his election he gave a taste of things to come when he had for citizens of the closeby town of Cori decapitated on the square between the bridge and Castel Sant’Angelo, for having been found in possession of arms. Only a few months later ha managed to track down and ask for the extradiction of a certain Blaschi, guilty of various murders, for a murder he had commited in Bologna 36 years earlier. The man had fled to Florence (a united Italy did not exist yet) but the Pope
had him captured and beheaded on the same Piazza of Castel Sant’Angelo.
On that occasion, the sense of humour of the Roman people made that the two statues of Saints Peter and Paul – located on the side of the bridge facing the square where so many had been executed – started talking.
One morning people found Saint Peter’s statue covered in a cloack, as if he were leaving town, and underneath Paul’s statue a note read: “What’s up Peter, are you leaving?”. Underneath Peter’s statue another note answered: “I’m leaving Paul, I’m fleeing from
The legend of the Sant’Angelo bridge
13Welcome
Rome. Now that the Pope has been reviewing all these very old crimes I’m afraid he wants to convict me for the ear I cut off in the Garden of Getsemani 1585 years ago!
photo by Francesco Pandolfi
ExStories
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Michelangelo’s stay in Rome, started in
1496 when he was called by Cardinal Riario and ending with his death in 1564, is in itself one of the most important chapters in European Art History.
It is also an unlimited source of anecdotes, most hardly verifiable, some definitely legendary, but always born out of the love that the Romans had for this Tuscan artist ever since he arrived.
Among the most famous stories, and also the least confirmed, we find the legend of the “visiting card”.
As famed artist Raphael was working on the famous frescoes at the Farnesina palace, being jealous of nature, he forbade anyone to come check on his “work in progress”.
One day, as Raphael was temporarily out of town, Michelange-lo passed by to go see
Michelangelo’s play on Raphael
A curious autograph.
his pupil Daniele da Volterra, who was working with Rap-hael. The youngster wasn’t there though, and to leave note of his visit he took a piece of charcoal and drew a beauti-ful little angel in a lunette, after which he left the building unseen.
When Raphael came back, he saw the small masterpiece and recognised it as Michelangelo’s work right away; however instead of telling off the guard for letting someone in and erasing the picture, he appreciated its quality and decided to leave it intact.
So much for the legend, which however as many legends
photo by Mykaul - Flickr
ExStories
15Welcome
do, contains an element of truth.
The charcoal drawing, in obvious Michelangelo style, survived an can still be seen today, in the ninth lunette on the left wall of the loggia.
However, according to historians, the drawing was not made by Michelangelo but by Sebastiano del Piombo or Baldassare Peruzzi. In saying so they leave the reason for inserting a charcoal drawing in frescoed hall unexplained though. So yes, it may be a legend, but we do have some doubts…
photo by Mykaul - Flickr
ExStories
I n the center of Piazza Navona we find the
famous “fountain of the four rivers” (1651) made by Bernini. The fountain, topped by an ancient Roman obelisk (a copy of an Egyptain original), is decorated byfour allegoric statues that satnd as symbols for the main rivers of the four regions of the world as it was then known. The Danube for Europe, the Nile for Africa, the Ganges for Asia and the Rio de la Plata for the Americas. Right in front of the fountain, on the western side of the square, rises the church if Saint Agnes, whose construction was started by
Girolamo and Carlo Rainaldi in those same years, but was taken over by Borromini shortly after.
Using a very inter-esting technique he projected the fa-cade of the church to be concave, that way when seen from below, the cupola on top of the church would seem to stand closer to the square than it actually was and would therefore be more visible, due to an ef fect of perspec-tive. It is said that Bernini made fun of his rival through one of the statues, the Rio de la Plata, who raises his arm towards the church as if he wanted to protect himself from the impend-ing collapse of the building.
the rivalry between Bernini and Borromini
16 Welcome
Piazza Navona
This is obviously a legend since the curch was finished some years after the fountain’s completion.
Another statue, the Nile, according to the same theories is hiding his head under a veil so he would not have to see Borromini’s horrific bulding. In realilty though it is an allegory to the fact that in those days the source of the Nile was still unknown, it would only be discovered in the 19th century.
At the base if the right belltower of the curch a small statue of Saint Agnes hold het hand to her chest, which was understood as a sign of
reassurance of the stability of the church.
From their part the followers of Borromini didn’t spare Bernini in their criticism of his fountain, claiming that since it had a hollow base, it wouldn’t have been able to cope with the weight of the obelisk, and it would’ve fallen apart.
Bernini responded, overnight, by attaching four little strings to the pinnacle for its “stability”, making fun of his rival once again. What we see today shows that Bernini knew exactely what he was doing.
17Welcome
ExStories
photo by Nicolas Esposito - Flickr
ExStories
Amongst the oldest of all legends that
are told about Rome, one regards a curious case in which snow fell on Agust 5th 358 AD, covering the area where today the church of Santa Maria Maggiore stands. A nobleman named Giovanni and his wife prayed to the Vrigin Mary every day hoping she would give them a child. They promised that if the managed to have a child they would’ve have built a church to thank the mother of God. On the night of the 5th of August, in high summer, the Virgin appeared in their dreams reassuring the spouses and telling them “build a church in my
name on the place where tomorrow morning you’ll find snow”. On that same night Pope Liberio had the exact same dream. At dawn Giovanni and his wife went out to look for the mysterious snow. On the Esquiline hill they found a rectangular field covered in snow, a divine sign indicating the place where a church dedicated to Mary should be built. Today the only evidence of this miraculous event is a bronze bas-relief above the altar of the Borghesiana chapel, in which we see Pope Liberio tracing the groundplan of the church in the snow.
Snow in summer
18 Welcome
Santa Maria Maggiore
photo by Allie Caulfield - Flickr
19Welcome
ExStories
Piazza Fiammetta The flower of Rome
In a “holy” city, as Papal Rome was qualified
in the days, one may be surprised that a square can be named after a courtesan.
This is the case with Piazza Fiametta, near Via de’ Coronari which wa once a street used by the many piglrims directed towards Saint Peter’s.
One might say that this is where holy and profane come together. Fiametta
(little flame) was the first important Roman courtesan, forerunner of all those “ladies of pleasure” that flock to Rome from the end of the 15th century. So many were they, that Rome was dubbed “the land of women”, a triumph of luxurity in the Holy City.
All this partially explains the name of the square, appear-ing on a city map as early as 1625. In fact Fiamette de Micaelis, born in Florence, had been “performing her art” in Rome since 1478, where she arrives only 13 years old, following her mother - a prostitute just like her, and becoming for a year and a half the mistress of Cardinal Jacopo
Ammannati. This is enough to make her fortune, since when the cardinal dies in 1479, he leaves her all his possessions.
The execution of his will however is blocked by Pope Sixtus IV, who sets up a committee for it, and in the end only a part of it actually goes to Fiametta.
However “for the love of God, and to provide her with a dowry” - as it was written in the final verdict, hiding that it was a “pension” for the Cardinal’s “beautiful lady”– Fiametta still recieves four houses.
A vineyard with a villa, a house with a tower, another house in Via de’ Cornari 157 which
ExStories
20 Welcome
still stands, and another one in Via Acquasparta 16, on the corner of the square that was named after her. She usually lives in the first three, leaving the last one up for rent. Fiametta’s star rises with the years and in 1493 she becomes the mistress of Cardinal Cesare Borgia. The later Pope Alexander VI meets with her at night in the Vatican vineyards, carrying his purple robe and a sword, to defend himself from rogue bandits and anyone who might be spying on their love affair. As always in Rome, the holy and the profane come together.
“Si fueris Romae, Romano vivito more.”
Museums in Rome
Info / Hours / Tickets / History
22Welcome
MMUSEUMS
22 Welcome
GALLERIA BORGHESE
Opening Hours / 8.30 - 19.30 closed on Mondays Address / Piazzale del Museo Borghese Telephone / 06 32810 Ticket / E 8.50 Tickets need to be booked by tel-ephone in advance.
This gallery holds sculptures, bas-reliefs and antique mosa-ics, apart from paint-ings and sculptures from the 15th to 18th centuries. The collection, begun at the start of the 17th century by cardinal Scipione Borghese, features master-pieces by artists with names such as An-tonello da Messina, Giovanni Bellini, Raphael, Titian, Cor-reggio, Caravaggio and holds a number of splendid marble works by Gian Lorenzo Bernini and Canova.
GALLERIA NAZIONALE DI ARTE MODERNA
Opening Hours / 8.30 – 19.30, closed on Mondays Address / Viale delle Belle Arti, 131Telephone / 06 32298221Ticket / E 7 – 9
The National Gal-lery of Modern Art was founded in 1883 and holds a collection of mainly Italian artists from the 19th and 20th centuries, but the work of some of the best foreign artists may also be found here. Absolutely to be seen are the works by Morandi, De Chirico, De Pisis, Balla, Rosai, Sironi, Guttuso, Consagra, Soldati, Mastroianni, Guerrini, Corpora, Perilli, Novelli, Pollock, Cézanne, Mirò, Kan-dinsky, Utrilo, Monet, Van Gogh and many others still.
MUSEO DI ROMAIN TRASTEVERE
Opening Hours / 10.00 - 20.00, closed on Mondays Address / Piazza Sant’Egidio 1/b Telephone / 06 0608Ticket / E 3
The museum shows you some of the main aspects of Roman city life at the end of the 18th and 19th centuries. The collection consists of a number of paintings, prints, drawings and watercolours, amongst which a selection of the famous “disappeared Rome” series by Ettore Roesler Franz, and a 19th century nativity scene. Interesting are also the so-called “Roman scenes”, six life-size scenes that reproduce aspects of popular Roman culture and life in the 19th century.
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MUSEO NAZIONALE ROMANO PALAZZO ALTEMPS
Opening Hours / 9 – 19.45, closed on Mondays Address / Via Sant’Apollinare 46Telephone / 06 39967700Ticket / E 7
This museum offers some of the most important collections of ancient sculptures, including Egyptian statues, masterpieces of Magna Grecia, works from the Hellenistic period, and pieces of the Roman Republican and Imperial ages.
MUSEO NAZIONALE DEGLI STRUMENTI MUSICALI
Opening Hours / 8.30 – 19.30, closed on Mondays Address / Piazza Santa Croce in Gerusalemme, 9/aTelephone / 06 7014796Ticket / E 4
The National Museum of musical instruments is the biggest of its kind in Europe Over a thousand pieces from all over the world are on display here, ranging from the far east to archaeological sites in the Etruscan region. The collection is displayed through a chronological arch that spans from the late Hellenistic age to the 20th century Some examples of particular historic and artistic value include a piano built by Bartolomeo Cristofori in 1723 and the famous “Barberini harp”.
MUSEO STORICOVATICANO
Opening Hours / 9 – 12, closed on Sundays Address / Piazza San Giovanni in LateranoTelephone / 06 69886467Ticket / E 5
The historical museum of the Vatican resides in the Palazzo Apostolico Lateranense, at the St. John in Lateran church. This interesting museum conserves the historical legacy of the Papacy and it’s court. The collection is built up in three sections: the Papal iconographic collection, a section dedicated to ceremonial at the Papal court, and a collection of arms and uniforms of the former Papal armies.
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GALLERIA COMUNALE D’ARTE MODERNA E CONTEMPORANEA
Opening Hours / Tue-Fri: 9.00 – 19.00; Sundays and holi-days: 9.00 – 14.00; closed on Mondays.Address / Via F. Crispi, 24 Telephone / 06 4742848Ticket / E 2,60
The municipal gallery of modern and contemporary art is home to a number of works belonging to the municipality’s collections, datable from 1883 to 1945. The museum’s exhibit, divided in three floors hosts some 4000 works of art by the most famous Italian artists of the 19th and 20th centuries such as Balla, Depero, Trampolini, Scipione, Mafai, De Pisis, Morandi, De Chirico, Sironi and Guttuso.
MUSEO NAZIONALE D’ARTE ORIENTALE
Opening Hours / Tue, Wed, Fri 9:00-14:00; Thu, Sat, Sun- and holidays 9:00-19:30; closed on Mondays Address / Via Merulana, 248 Telephone / 06 46974832Ticket / E 6
The National Oriental Art Museum ‘Giuseppe Tucci’ guards the findings of various Italian archaeological missions to Iran, Pakistan and Afghanistan, apart from a number of objects that were purchased in Nepal and Tibet Giuseppe Tucci (one of the most important orient-experts of the 20th century) between 1928 and 1954.
MUSEO H. C. ANDERSEN
Opening Hours / 9 – 19, closed on MondaysAddress / Via P. S. Mancini 20Telephone / 06 32 19 089 Ticket / Free entrace
The home and studio of H.C. Andersen holds a collection of 200 statues, 200 paintings and some 300 graphic designs, that testify the artistic genius of this Norwegian master.
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GALLERIA NAZIONALE D’ARTE ANTICA
Opening Hours / 8.30 – 19.30; closed on MondaysAddress / Via delle Quattro Fontane 13 Telephone / 06 32810Ticket / E 5 - 6
The gallery is rich in masterpieces of the 16th and 17th centuries. Some of the most famous paintings include the “Fornarina” by Raphael apart from works by Andrea del Sarto, Bronzino and Lotto. Also Tintoretto, Titian and El Greco feature among the artists whose works can be admired here. Furthermore we see some Bolognese art, to arrive at the end of the 16th century with the splendid “Judith beheading Holophernes” by Caravaggio. The 17th century is represented by works of artist like, Domenichino, Guercino and Bernini.
MUSEO NAZIONALE ROMANO: CRYPTA BALBI Opening Hours / 9-19.45; closed on MondaysAddress / Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31 Telephone / 06 39967700Ticket / E 7
The Crypta Balbi is one of Rome’s most extraordinary museums on urban archaeology. Particular attention is paid to the findings that document the handicraft activities in the area (materials, tools, produce) in post-antique and high-medieval times. The exhibits give a profile of the continuity and quality of these produces, from the 8th to 10th century, a period commonly indicated as the “dark ages”.
GALLERIA D. PAMPHILJ Opening Hours / 10-17Address / Via del Corso, 305 Telephone / 06 6797323Ticket / E 9
The Doria Pamphilj gallery is home to a grand number of 17th century masterpieces with works form the likes of Caravaggio, A. Carracci, G. Reni, Guercino, J. Bruegel, J. Ribera, Velázquez, C. Lorrain, G. Dughet, and renaissance paintings by Titian, Raphael, Garofalo, L. Lotto, P. Brueghel, Correggio and Parmigianino.The collection of paintings is accompanied by a number of absolute masterpieces of sculptural art Alessandro Algardi and the famous Gian Lorenzo Bernini, and a collection of antique sculptures of the Archaic and Hellenistic ages.
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MuseumsGALLERIA NAZIONALE DI PALAZZO CORSINI Opening Hours / 8.30 – 19.30; closed on MondaysAddress / Via della Lungara 10 Telephone / 06 32810Ticket / E 4
This collection of paintings from the 14th to 18th centuries was donated to the Italian State by the family of Cardinal Neri Maria Corsini. The Cardinal accumulated his collection in the 17th century and it was later enriched with more contemporary works. The museum is home to works by the likes of Beato Angelico, Rubens, Murillo and Luca Giordano.
MUSEO PALATINO Opening Hours / 8.30 – 16.30Address / Via di San Gregorio 30 Telephone / 06 39967700 Ticket / E 9 (valid also for the Coliseum and Roman Forum)
The museums hosts sculptures, frescoes and findings of the Archaic age that tell the story of Rome. On the ground floor findings form the Iron age and of the Republican age of the Roman state may be found, whilst the first floor pays attention to the frescoes, panels coming from the “Domus Transitoria”, statues from the Imperial Age, a fragment of the “Doryphoros” by Polykleitos as well as some splendid architectural terracotta’s recovered from buildings belonging to the age of August.
MUSEO DELL’ALTO MEDIOEVO Opening Hours / 9 – 14; closed on MondaysAddress / Viale Lincoln 3Telephone / 06 54228199Ticket / E 2
The Museum of the Early Middle Ages presents a collection of materials dating from the 4th to the 14th centuries, coming mainly from central Italy and Rome itself. In the museum’s eight rooms, findings from the Roman, Lombard and Carolingian ages may be seen.
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MUSEO DI ROMA PALAZZO BRASCHI Opening Hours / 9 – 19; closed on MondaysAddress / Via di San Pantaleo (near Piazza Navona) Telephone / 06 0608 Ticket / E 6 - 8
The Palazzo Braschi collection holds numerous manufac-tures the tell Rome’s story from the late medieval period until the second half of the 20th century, such as furniture, carriages, elements of urban and architectural decoration, mosaics, frescoes and medi-eval ceramics. Also quite important is the collection of paint-ings that, outside the works of Andrea Sac-chi, Pierre Subleyras, Pier Leone Ghezzi, Marco Benefial and Pompeo Batoni, holds a number of paint-ings with a great documentary value.
MUSEI CAPITOLINI Opening Hours / 9 – 20; closed on MondaysAddress / Piazza del Campidoglio1 Telephone / 06 0608 Ticket / E 6,50
The Capitoline Mu-seums are the oldest antique collection that was opened to the public. It holds pieces of sculptural art of immeasurable value such as the statue of Oceanus, the equestrian statue of Emperor Marcus Aurelius, the Capitoline Venus, 65 busts of Roman Emperors and the famous “Dying Gaul”. The collection of paintings holds works of Caravaggio, Guer-cino, Annibale Car-racci, Veronese, Titian, Rubens, Antonio van Dyck and Calvaert.
MUSEO DELLA CIVILTÀ ROMANA
Opening Hours / 9 – 13.30; closed on MondaysAddress / Piazza G. Agnelli, 10 Telephone / 06 32810Ticket / E 6.50
The exposed materials are reproductions and reconstructive plastics of the architectural complexes and monuments of the Roman Empire. Divided in 59 sections, it occupies some 12.00 square metres and has rooms 10 metres high, to allow for 1:1 reconstructions of the façades of several monuments. The first 15 rooms tell the story of Rome from its origins up to the 5th century AD, the others document various aspects of the Roman civilisation and its material culture.
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MUSEO NAZIONALE DI CASTEL SANT’ANGELO
Opening Hours / 9 – 19; closed on MondaysAddress / Lungote-vere Castello, 50 Telephone / 06 6819111Ticket / E 5
From Mausoleum to a fortified position, from dark and feared dungeon to the splendid renaissance residence that saw Michelangelo work inside its walls, and from a prison during the ‘Risorgimento’ to a museum. Rome’s Castel Sant’Angelo has stood tall during most of the city’s history and its solemn Roman rooms, its imposing walls and its luxuriously frescoed hallways make it a place where present and past of the eternal city are inseparably linked.
GALLERIA SPADA
Opening Hours / 8.30 – 19.30; closed on MondaysAddress / Piazza Capo di Ferro, 13 Telephone / 06 6832409Ticket / E 5
Recomposed after the events of the Second World War, the gallery holds the private collection of Cardinal Bernardino Spada and comprises paintings (mainly of the 17th century), antique statues and original furniture of the Cardinals time. The museum has works by Guercino, Baciccia, Orazio Gentileschi and Guido Reni. In the courtyard the famous tromp l’oeil hallway by Borromini may be admired.
MUSEO BARRACCO
Opening Hours / 9 – 19; closed on MondaysAddress / Corso Vitto-rio Emanuele 166/A Telephone / 06 0608Ticket / E 3
The museum holds a prestigious collection of antique sculptures. In the Assyrian section some priceless ornaments of the palaces of Assurbanipal and Senacherib can be seen, while the Egyptian section of the museum holds pieces that cover some 3000 years up until Roman times. Greek Art is explained through a series of works of the artist Polykleitos and his school, of the 5th century BC. As for Roman Art, one of the finer works is the head of a young boy belonging to the Julii family, testifying the portrait art of the early Imperial Age.
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MUSEO D’ARTE CONTEMPORANEA ROMA – MACRO
Opening Hours / 9 – 19, closed on MondaysAddress / Via Reg-gio Emilia, 54 Telephone / 06 0608Ticket / Free entrance
The MACRO, an acronym for the Roman Museum of Contemporary Art, holds a collection of which the first part includes the works of artists such as Accardi, Sanfilippo, Perilli, Dorazio, Festa, Schifano, Rotella, Maselli, Pascali, Pizzi Cannella, Dessì, Bianchi, Ceccobelli and Tirelli. The timeline of the second part of the collection runs for 2001 up until today, and hosts the works of great artists such as Asdrubali, Albanese, Pintaldi, Ontani, Abate, Erlich, Sissi and Ciracì.
MUSEO DI PALAZZO VENEZIA
Opening Hours / 8.30 – 19.30; closed on MondaysAddress / Via del Plebiscito, 118 Telephone / 06 32810Ticket / E 4
The Museum conserves a number of paintings on canvas and on wooden panel dating back to the 15th-18th centuries, a rich collection of Italian and German woodcarvings, early medieval and renaissance marbles as well as more general collection of antique furniture. Furthermore the collection boasts a number of wrought irons and a rich collection of antique weapons and armours.
MUSEO MONTEMARTINI
Opening Hours / 9 – 19, closed on MondaysAddress / Via Ostiense 106 Telephone / 06 0608Ticket / E 4.50
The former thermo-electric power plant of Montemartini is an extraordinary example of industrial archaeology turned into a museum. Through a clever arrangement of contrasts, masterpieces of sculptural and archaeological finds from the late 19th century and 1930’s are exposed next to the old machinery of the power plant. The museum reconstructs the monumental complexes and illustrates the development of the ancient city from the Republican Age through to the late Imperial Age.
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MUSEO NAZIONALE ETRUSCO
Opening Hours / 8.30 – 19.30, closed on MondaysAddress / Piazzale di Villa Giulia, 93 Telephone / 06 32810Ticket / E 4
The collection of the National Etruscan Museum, divided into geographical areas, holds some of the masterpieces of the ancient Etruscan civilisation, such as the sarcophagus of the spouses (6th century BC) and the statue of the Apollo of Veio (6th century BC). Besides these, the museum offers some prized historical collections such as the “Castellani collection” with its ceramics, bronzes and famous golden jewellery and artwork. A recent restoration has opened up the main floor as an exposition space for the antiques of Pyrgi.
PALAZZO MASSIMO ALLE TERME Opening Hours / 9 – 19.45, closed on MondaysAddress / Largo di Villa Peretti 1 Telephone / 06 39967700Ticket / E 7
At the Palazzo Massimo one will find true treasures of Roman coins and jewellery. It also features unique examples of Roman sculptures and portraits and even holds some original Greek statues. Apart from that it has a collection of Roman sculptures from the Republican as well as the late-imperial periods. After years of restorations visitors can now behold the splendid frescoes that have been recovered from the Villa of Livia and from the cellars of the Farnesina, the Italian ministry of foreign affairs.
MUSEO DELL’ARA PACIS Opening Hours / 9 – 19, closed on MondaysAddress / Lungote-vere in Augusta Telephone / 06 0608Ticket / E 6.50
The Ara Pacis or “altar of peace” is one of the finest examples of antique art. Its construction was decreed by the Roman senate in 13 AD to honour emperor Augusts return for the provinces of Gaul and Spain, where he had been working for three years to consolidate Rome’s power, as much as his own, by building new roads and setting up Roman colonies.
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MUSEO DELLE MURA
Opening Hours / 9 – 14, closed on MondayAddress / Via di Porta San Sebastiano Telephone / 06 0608Ticket / E 6.50
This exhibition tells the story of Rome’s city walls. The informative panels cover the history of the fortification of the city in the period of the Kings of Rome, the Roman Republic and finally of the Aurelian Walls built in the 3rd century AD. The museum describes the historical and political events that brought about the construction of the Aurelian Walls, and talks about the strategic choices that were made in choosing its path. Finally it analyzes the building techniques, the various gates, the restorations and later transformations.
MERCATI DI TRAIANO
Opening Hours / 9 – 19, closed on MondaysAddress / Via IV Novembre 94 Telephone / 06 0608Ticket / E 6.50
Trajan’s markets are the main museum on antique architecture that offers the visitor a number of replicas and recomposures of parts of the ancient forum and its architectural decorations, through the use of original parts, limestone copies and modern plain stone integrations, following the theory of “reversibility”. These pieces manage to give the visitor a perception of the greatness and the richness of the forums, as well as an idea of the imagery that was a strong instrument of imperial propaganda.
MUSEO EBRAICO DI ROMA
Opening Hours / 10 – 16, Friday 9- 13, closed on SaturdayAddress / Lungotevere Cenci Telephone / 06 68400661Ticket / E 7.50
The Jewish Museum in Rome, located in the complex of the Grand Temple, has been open to the public since 1960 and hosts the collections of Rome’s Jewish community. Roman silverware of the 17th and 18th centuries, valuable textiles from all over Europe, scrolls with miniatures and marbles that survived the destructions of the “Five schools” of the Roman ghetto.
Entertainment
in RomeFood / Drink / Music
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BIR E FUD
Address / Via Benedetta 23 Phone / 06 5894016 Medium Price / E 25 Closed / Never
This interesting hotspot for lovers of good beer and good food gets its name from beer & food, albeit in phonetic Italian. It’s rather different from your average restaurant but home to a very vast and ever-changing choice of excellent dishes and pizza’s made from first quality ingredients. Bir & Fud always has at least ten craft beers (artisanal, abbey, small breweries) on draught, and an impressive collection of bottled beers from all over the world. Situated right in the heart of Trastevere this is really one to try out, whether in romantic company or with friends, to get a taste of great beers and equally good food.
RELAZIONI CULINARIE
Address / Via Panisperna 75Phone / 06 48930554 Medium Price / E 30Closed / Never
Right in the heart of one of Rome’s oldest quarters, Monti, you’ll find this lovely restau-rant that offers some intriguing recipes from Southern Italy. The freshly made pasta everyday, served with artichokes and salmon or sausage, lemon and Parmesan cheese are worth trying, as are the meat dishes (try the pork with sun dried tomatoes, pine nuts and black olives) and the fish (swordfish with lemon). For dessert the Relazioni Culinarie offers a lovely chest-nut mousse or sorbets made with fresh fruit. The restaurant’s origi-nal nature is reflected in the continuous contemporary art exhibits inside its walls.
OSTERIA DELL’ANGELO
Address / Via Bettolo 24/32Phone / 06 3729470 Medium Price / E 25Closed / on Sunday, Monday and Saturday (only dinner)
Close to metrostop Ottaviano, this restau-rant offers you a place to try some original Roman dishes. The ambient is as typical as it gets for a Roman trattoria, simple and a bit rough around the edges, including the well-known red-and-white cheq-uered tablecloths. The walls are lined with various items connected to both boxing and rugby, the latter being the sport practiced by its owner, Angelo Croce. The cuisine is Roman, period, tasty and rich in flavour, no extravaganza’s or fancy things. The price is fixed: 25 for a complete meal.
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Only beer. Only quality food. Only Passion.
Via Benedetta 23 (Trastevere) - Phone 06 5894016
bir&fud
Restaurant
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Opening Hours / 10 – 13 / 17 – 1 Address / Piazza Santa Maria Libera-trice 46Phone / 06 45421608
This concept store offers its clients the chance to enjoy – without hurry - the many avail-able books while warming up with a nice cup of tea or having a glass of good wine. But not only the books are for sale, you’ll also find designer objects and furniture, made by young crea-tive artists from all over the world. The in-house gallery provides room for exhibits and performances by both emerging and acclaimed artists, and proposes itself as a cultural meet-ing point for painters, photographers, poets and actors.
SENZA FONDO
Opening Hours / 20.00 – 2.00 Address / Via Germanico 168/cPhone / 06 3211415
This warm and wel-coming oasis for the thirsty can be found in the basement of a 1920’s build-ing near St. Peter’s basilica. The ancient, chestnut-covered brick walls welcome those who enter to quench their thirst on the wide range of draught beers. Apart from the many abbey and trappist beers, Senza fondo (bottomless, in Italian) also boasts a wide range of traditional cheeses, sausages, sliced meets and more. Of culinary intrest are also the sandwiches, salads, traditional br-uschette, and cold dishes. It also has a tearoom.
MA CHE SIETE VENUTI A FA
Opening Hours / 15.00 -2.00 Address / Via Benedetta 25 Phone / 3805074938
The “Ma che siete venuti a fà” can easily be called a reference point for all beer aficiona-dos of Rome and province. In the heart of Trastevere we find this fine pub, entirely dedicated to good, artisanal beer. They dispose of 10 draughts and two original English hand operated pump-draughts, which poor out unique beers of undisput-able quality. Some of the best Belgian, German, Danish, American and, more interestingly, Italian beers. The “Ma che siete venuti a fa” of-fers a range of beers that has no parallels in all of Rome.
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ALExANDER PLATZ
Hours / 20.00 – 2.00 Address / Via Ostia 9 Phone / 06 58335781
One of the better known addresses in Rome famous for it active concert-scene and its leading role in a number of great Jazz Festivals. The ambient is distinctly international and very warm, and the old walls are lined with the writings and autographs of the world’s most famous jazz artists. If you’re looking for an interesting night out, meeting new people and hearing new stories, Alexander Platz is the place to be. Clients are assured of cordial service, an international kitchen with an Italian touch and a fine American Bar.
BIG MAMA
Hours / 21 – 1.30Address / Vicolo San Francesco a Ripa 18Phone / 06 5812551
Since March 30th 1984 the Big Mama has been an important reference point for the Roman music scene. Known for its varied programming, crossing over to many different styles with quality as its only criteria, you’ll regularly hear some good old blues, but don’t forget about jazz, rock, ethnic and singer-songwriters. Over its 25 year long history the Big Mama has been more than just any place to go to a concert, it has seen many young artists emerge and mature.
FONCLEA
Hours / 19.00 – 2.00Address / Via Crescenzio 82/aPhone / 06 6896302
For over the last 30 years Fonclea has been considered one of the best known live music clubs of Rome, and an important reference point for lovers of music. Since its opening in ‘77 it has hosted (and will continue to do so) a music-related event every night, ranging from the many concerts to, presentations, festivals and retrospective exhibits about blues and soul music...also songwriters, rock and jazz. The Fonclea is more than just that however, presenting a fine Italian kitchen and a broad choice of drinks.
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ANTICA ERBORISTERIA ROMANA
Address / Via di Torre Argentina Phone / 06 6879493
The oldest herbalist in Rome, this shop was founded in 1752. Noteworthy is the original furniture in Italian walnut, amongst which we find a magnificent cupboard with drawers where one can find 350 different medicinal herbs, and a beautifully decorated panelled ceiling. Apart from the wide range of herbs, one can also find lovely fruited teas, essential oils, fluidextracts and over 20 different qualities of honey. The shop’s vast choice is further completed by products for aromatherapy and hydro massage as well as liquors, herbal spirits, incense and a wide range of lovely gift items!
AL SOGNO
Address / Piazza Navona 53Phone / 06 6864198
Since over five dec-ades, right on one of the world’s most beautiful squares, one can find the fairy-tale world of Al Sogno. This lovely shop offers a range of fluffy animals, collectable dolls and gift items of extraordinary quality and beauty. Passing this shop’s threshold means entering a fantasy-like dimen-sion in which you’ll come eye-to-eye with trolls, elves and fairies. If you happen to be in the vicinity of Piazza Navona we highly recom-mend you to make a little detour and discover the magic world of Al Sogno.
LIBRERIA DEL VIAGGIATORE
Address / Via del Pellegrino Phone / 06 68801048
The “traveller’s bookshop” is unique in Rome, and ideal for those who are about to go on holiday, or visit places they’ve never seen. Or simply for the curious, who can easily spend hours between its many racks. At this lovely libreria you will find tourist guides and maps of every imaginable part of the world, but also travel stories, foreign literature, essays and even philosophical writings. The racks are ordered by geographic area but our advise would be to just nose around everywhere; the choice of books is wide, varied and in many cases quite original.
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Useful NumbersWInfo
40 Welcome
ATAC06 64695444
BUS800 431784
TRAMBUS06 46954695
TAxI 06 3570
TRAINS892021
FIUMICINO AIRPORT06 794941
CIAMPINO AIRPORT06 794941
ITALIAN ROAD RESCUE803 116
LOST AND FOUND OFFICE (BUS)06 5816040
LOST AND FOUND OFFICE (SUBWAY)06 57532264
CHILDREN EMERGENCY118
POLICE113
CARABINIERI112
FIRE SERVICE115
TRAFFIC POLICE06 67691
FINANCIAL POLICE06 67691
CREDIT CARD BLOCKING800 822056
SANITARY EMERGENCY118
POISON UNIT HOSPITAL06 3054343
DRUG ADICT AID06 65741188
FIRST AID STATION06 58201030
CHANGE BUREAU06 722821
ITALIAN AGENCY FOR TOURISM06 49711
060606 is the telephone number to call for information on the services provided by the City of Rome. The service is available in English from Monday to Saturday, from 4pm to 7pm.
Partner Hotels
Hotel Alimandi VaticanoViale Vaticano 99 – Phone +39 06 39745562 - www.alimandivaticanohotel.com
Relais Hotel Antico Palazzo RospigliosiVia Liberiana 21 – Phone +39 06 48930495 – www.hotelrospigliosi.com
Hotel Residenza Paolo VIVia Paolo VI 29 – Phone +39 06 684870 – www.residenzapaolovi.com
Roscioli Best Western Hotel UniversoVia Principe Amedeo 5 B – Phone +39 06 476811 – www.rosciolihotels.it
Roscioli Best Western Hotel PresidentVia E.Filiberto 173 – Phone +39 06 770121 – www.rosciolihotels.it
Roscioli Hotel ClaridgeViale Liegi 62 – Phone +39 06 845441 – www.rosciolihotels.it
Roscioli Hotel Royal SantinaVia Marsala 22 – Phone +39 06 448751 – www.rosciolihotels.it
Roscioli Hotel Aris GardenVia Aristofane 101 – Phone +39 06 52362443 – www.rosciolihotels.it
Hotel ValleVia Cavour 134 – Phone +39 06 4815736 – www.hotelvallerome.com
Hotel Alimandi TunisiVia Tunisi 8 – Phone + 39 06 39723948 - www.alimandi.it
Hotel HadlerVia Modena 5 - Phone +39 06 484466 - www.hoteladler-roma.com
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