Welcome to Fragrance 101

March 13, 2017

8:30 – 9:00 am Continental Breakfast

9:00 am Welcome & Introductions

Morning Session Introduction to Fragrance

Essential Oils

Natural & Synthetic Aroma Chemicals

Fragrance Formulation & Stability

12:00 – 1:00 pm Lunch

Afternoon Session Describing Fragrance Odors

Fragrance Pricing

Fragrance Regulation & Safety

Deriving Fragrance Trends

3:00 pm Poster Sessions

Hors d'oeuvres & Refreshments

“The sense of smell is probably the very first sense to

evolve in a living creature. Back in the early days of

evolution when we began as single-celled creatures,

our sense of "smell" told us what was safe to eat. All

living creatures have a sense to detect chemicals in

their immediate environment.”

– Dr. Karl Kruszelnicki, ABC Science

Return to Agenda

“Even after 25 years I have

the chance to learn

something new everyday.”

Jim PowellR&D Director / Sr. Perfumer

Cara RogersPerfumer

John LittlePerfumer

Introduction to Fragrance

Return to Agenda

Steve Schuh

Sr. Director of Perfumery

“Perhaps the single most important element in mastering technique

is experience. Once you have the fundamentals, acquiring the

experience is a matter of time.”— Greg LeMond

“There are three kinds of men: the ones that learn by readin’, the few

who learn by observation, and the rest of them have to pee on the

electric fence for themselves.”― Will Rogers

• Definitions / Brief History*

• Composition

• Fragrance Families

• Fragrance Development Process

• Balancing Act

Basic Perfumery

*Table Top: “Scents Through Time”

• Latin per fumum means “smoke through”

• Merriam - Webster

a: the scent of something sweet-smelling

b: a substance that emits a pleasant odor

• Fragrance Industry

combination of aromatic materials, natural and/or

synthetic, creatively blended using art and science to

deliver a predetermined desired benefit to a product

and elicit a positive response from consumers.

Definition of Perfume

Fragrance Materials

• Essential Oils

• Aroma Chemicals

Composition

Perfumer

• Fragrance

• Art

• Notes

• Accords

• Balance

• Harmony

Composer

• Music

• Art

• Notes

• Chords

• Balance

• Harmony

Olfactory Triangle

Top: Amyl Acetate

Mid: Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol

Base: Patchouli Oil

• Volatility Based on Molecular Weight

• Longevity / Substantive / Retentive

Perfumery Notes

Top

Mid

Base

Classified by Common Character

• FRUITY (Amyl Acetate)

• FLORAL (Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol)

• WOODY (Patchouli)

• CITRUS

• SPICE

• HERBAL

Fragrance Families

• Concept/Project/Brief

• What Does That Smell Like?

• Idea Generation

• Formulation

• Smell

• Test

• Modify

• Submit

Fragrance Development Process

• Time

Multiple Trials for Creativity

• Cost

Jasmine Oil – $1,820/LB

Jasmine 50 – $4.20/LB

• Quality

L’Eau de Toilette

Water of the Toilet

The Balancing Act

Return to Agenda

Questions?

Essential Oils

Cara Rogers

Perfumer

Return to Agenda

What are Essential Oils?

• Essential oils are highly concentrated,

volatile oils extracted from plant material

that possess the odor and characteristic

properties of that plant.

• An oil is “essential” in the sense that it carries a distinctive scent,

or essence, of the plant. This scent may serve as a protective or

attractive “cloud”.

• In the fragrance industry, essential oils are used in fragrances

that go into cosmetics, soaps, detergents and perfumes.

GC of Bergamot Oil

Complexity of an Essential Oil

Every Bergamot is DIFFERENT!

• The use of essential oils dates back to 4500 B.C.

• Ancient Egyptians among first to use essential oils in medical practices and religious ceremonies.

– Cedarwood and Myrrh in the embalming process

– Traces of oils have been found in tombs today

• Over 150 references to essential oils in the Bible.

– Old Testament: Moses was given a recipe for a holy anointing oil, which included Myrrh, Cinnamon, and Cassia

– New Testament: The wise men brought Frankincense and Myrrh as a gift to Jesus

• Essential oils reintroduced to modern medicine during the late 19th and early 20th centuries to balance mood, lift spirits, and dispel negative emotions.

History of Essential Oils

Where do Essential Oils come from?

Berries Seeds Bark Wood Rhizome Leaves Resin Flowers Peel

Juniper Cumin

AlmondAniseNutmeg

Cassia

Cinnamon

Camphor

Cedar

Ginger Basil

Bay CinnamonEucalyptusThymeRosemarySpearmint

Frankincense

Myrrh

Geranium

YlangLavender

Lemon

Lime Orange

Petitgrain

Neroli

Bitter Orange

Bitter Orange Tree

Extraction Methods Steam Distillation

Most common method for essential oil extraction

1. Water is heated to produce steam

2. Steam softens/ruptures plant cells, and carries volatile compounds to condenser

3. Steam/EO flows through a condenser, cools and changes back to liquid state

4. Essential oil collects on surface

5. Hydrosol or plant water essence or floral water collects on the bottom.

• Rose water and lemon balm are popular

Sensitive

Extraction Methods Fractional Distillation

Ylang fractionally distilled

to produce four grades

Products of Steam Distillation

Juniper Berry Basil

Chamomile

CypressCedarleaf

Extraction Methods Expression (Cold Pressed)

• Used to produce most citrus oils

• Pressure applied to peel to break open oil glands under surface

• Takes place at room temperature

– Citrus oils are cold pressed to preserve delicate structure

• Due to large quantity of oil in citrus peels and the low cost of

growing them, citrus essential oils tend to be cheaper

• Before distillation, expression was used to produce essential oils

Extraction Methods Solvent Extraction

Typically used when a plant/flower is too fragile to undergo steam

distillation (Jasmine, Tuberose, Neroli, Rose).

1. Organic solvent is used to wash plant material

2. Solvent dissolves extractable material, pulling out all lipophilic material

3. Solution is filtered and undergoes low pressure distillation to recover solvent

and concrete separately

– Concretes: Mix of essential oil, waxes, resins and oil soluble plant material

4. Concrete is washed with ethanol to separate aromatic molecules from

waxy material

5. When the alcohol evaporates, left with the absolute

PROS CONS

• Relatively fast

• Inexpensive

• Fragile components retained

• Produces a product

with traces of solvent

Extraction Methods Supercritical Fluid Extraction (SFE)

• Follows same method as solvent extraction,

with different solvent (typically CO2 ).

– Non toxic

– Non combustible

– Odorless

• Supercritical fluid can pass through solids like

a gas, and dissolve materials like a liquid.

– Penetrate and extract from micro-poroussubstrates (gas-like diffusion properties)

• Advantages to SFE

– Product is solvent free

– Solvent is recyclable

– Extracts more compounds for better product

• Ginger SFE vs. Ginger Distilled

Extraction Methods Enfleurage

• Developed by ancient Egyptians

• One of the earliest forms of plant extractions

• Form of solvent extraction using animal or plant fats

• Glass trays are covered in an animal or plant fat

• Flowers are placed on trays and left for days or weeks

and replenished several times

• Fat absorbs essential oil and washed with alcohol

• Alcohol evaporates off and leaves essential oil

• Yields weaker product, as plant/animal fat does not pull

essential oils as well as solvents

• Fragile components are unharmed

Enfleurage

• Aromatherapy: The art and science

of utilizing essential oils to balance,

harmonize and promote the health

of the body, mind and spirit.

• History of Aromatherapy

– Credited to the French chemist Rene-Maurice Gattefosse in the early 1900’s

– Gattefosse was miraculously cured after he treated a burn wound with lavender oil

– Coined the term "aromatherapie" in 1928 to imply the therapeutic use of aromatic substances (essential oils)

Aromatherapy

Essential Oil Claims

Essential Oil Benefit

Peppermint Relieves headaches and muscle aches

EucalyptusTreats respiratory problems, boosts immune system, relieves muscle

tension

Ylang I Relaxes and eases anxiety, antidepressant

Geranium Balances hormones in women, balances skin, relaxes and uplifts

Lavender Relaxes, treats wounds and acne

Lemon Uplifts and relaxes, treats wounds and infections, repels insects

Clary Sage Natural pain killer, treats muscle aches, helps with insomnia

Tea Tree Treats fungal infections, boosts immune system

Chamomile Relaxes, helps with sleeplessness and anxiety

Rosemary Helps mental stimulation, immune system and digestive system

Why use Essential Oils?

• They are unique

– Nuances cannot be achieved with synthetic aroma chemicals

– Geranium Recon vs Geranium Egyptian oil

• They add distinctiveness to fragrances

– Clary Sage Tea

– Ginger Fresh Citrus

– Opoponax Sweetness, Caramel

– Elemi Sparkle, Zest

– Davana Fig, Raisin

– Cardamom Fizzy, Effervescence

Cost of Essential Oils (and Quality)

Dependent on…

• Growing conditions

• Crop availability (weather, demand, politics)

• Essential oil content and yield

Eucalyptus– 30 lbs. leaves yield 1 lb. of oil ($10.65/lb.)

Ylang #1– 50 lbs. of petals yield 1 lb. of oil ($156/lb.)

Jasmine – 1000 lbs. of petals yield 1 lb. of oil ($2,350/lb.)

Rose – 3000 lbs. of petals yield 1 lb. of oil ($6,500/lb.)

• Harvest (when and how)

• Method of extraction

Variability Among Essential Oils

• What’s in a name?

– Different species have different odor profiles

• Location, location, location.

– A plant grown in one area may produce an EO that smells

different than the same plant grown in a different location.

• Seasons change.

– This year a crop may produce an EO with more of one or

two specific aroma compounds than the previous year.

Misconceptions

• Essential oil blends are safer than synthetic fragrances.

• Consumers hear the word natural or essential oil and think

safe/added benefits.

Cinnamon Bark

Cinnamic Aldehyde

IFRA, EU Allergen

Eugenol IFRA, EU Allergen

Linalool IFRA, EU Allergen

d-Limonene IFRA, EU Allergen

Benzyl

Benzoate

IFRA, EU Allergen

Cinnamic Alcohol

IFRA, EU Allergen

Coumarin IFRA, EU Allergen

Geraniol IFRA, EU Allergen

Geranium (Egyptian)

Linalool IFRA, EU Allergen

Citral IFRA, EU Allergen

Citronellol IFRA, EU Allergen

Geraniol IFRA, EU Allergen

d-Limonene IFRA, EU Allergen

Return to Agenda

Questions?

Natural & Synthetic

Aroma Chemicals

John Little

Perfumer

Return to Agenda

• Definition of Aroma Chemicals

• Types of Aroma Chemicals

• Grouping of Aroma Chemicals

• Comparing Natural vs. Synthetic Aroma Chemicals

• Natural Licensing Standards

• Natural vs. Synthetic Fragrances

Aroma Chemicals 101

Aroma chemicals are an important

group of organic molecules used as

ingredients in flavors and fragrances.

Types of Aroma Chemicals:

• Natural

• Natural Identical

• Artificial/Synthetic

Aroma Chemicals 101

Natural

• Single Substances derived directly

from vegetable or animal product

by physical process:

– Distillation

– Fermentation

• Challenge: output is relatively low

and the consistency/quality can

be affected by weather and crop

variations.

• Chemically isolated from

aromatic raw materials or

produced through synthesis.

• Chemically identical to the original natural product.

• Major benefit is that large

quantities are produced to

meet demand.

Natural Identical

• Created by physical or

synthetic processes in a

laboratory.

• Convenient availability

and lower cost.

Only in Mexico’s flea market

can you find NATURAL MUSK

incense for $1 a pack.

Artificial/synthetic

Group Example of Aroma Chemical Sensory Notes

AcidsButyric Acid

Pentanoic Acid

Buttery, fatty

Cheesy

AldehydicAldehyde C-7

Aldehyde C-10

Pumpkin, green, orange

Citrus, orange, peely, waxy

AnimalicIndole

Phenyl Acetic Acid

Moth ball, animalic

Honey, animalic

Camphoraceous Isoborneol Camphor, pine needle-like

CitrusCitral

Citronellyl Nitrile

Lemon

Lemon, green, herbal

Earthy Iso Butyl Quinoline Earthy, mossy, tobacco

EstersEthyl Acetate

Amyl Acetate

Grape

Banana, pear

FloralPhenyl Ethyl Alcohol

Lilial

Rose

Lily

Greencis-3-Hexenol

Liffarome

Green, grassy, leafy

Watery, fruity, pear

Lactonesγ-Decalactone

Aldehyde C-18

Coconut, fruit, peach

Coconut, lactonic

SpicyEugenol

Cinnamic Aldehyde

Clove

Cinnamon

SulfurousDimethyl Sulfide

Methylmercaptan

Onion, garlic

Sulfury, cabbage

Terpenoids d-Limonene Citrus, orange, pine

WoodyCedrol

α- Ionone

Cedar, saw dust

Floral, violet, berry

There are approximately 3000 synthetic materials in the market today.

There are approximately 500 naturally derived chemicals that are commercially viable.

This table shows how aroma chemicals can be grouped in terms of sensory notes.

Amyl Acetate

Grouping of Aroma Chemicals

Synthetic Price/LB

Aldehyde C-18 $10.90

Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde $7.55

Allyl Caproate $8.00

Allyl Heptoate $7.65

Amyl Salicylate $6.70

Benzyl Acetate $5.30

Benzyl Alcohol $5.80

Cis-3-Hexenol $23.55

Cis-3-Hexenyl Acetate $30.15

Heliotropin $17.85

Maltol $13.30

Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol $6.80

Vanillin $13.50

Natural Price/LB

Aldehyde c-18 $284.05

Amyl Cinnamic

Aldehyde$110.80

Allyl Caproate $211.45

Allyl Heptoate $138.00

Amyl Salicylate $124.40

Benzyl Acetate $78.15

Benzyl Alcohol $69.95

Cis-3-Hexenol $320.30

Cis-3-Hexenyl Acetate $298.25

Heliotropin $124.40

Maltol $22.05

Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol $467.30

Vanillin $32.95

Natural aroma chemicals are generally more expensive than their synthetic

counterparts due to the processes involved in their production.

Pricing: Natural v$. Synthetic

Natural vs. Synthetic

• Depends on the process from which it is derived

– Naturals from plants and animals

– Synthetics processes in the lab

• Availability

– Naturals generally have very low output

– Synthetics are widely available

• Product

– Quality and consistency highly affected by nature

– Synthetics are more stable and consistent

• Pricing – Naturals always more expensive than synthetics

Natural & Organic Certification Agency Standards

Ecocert

Ecocert was the very first certification company to

develop standards for natural and organic

cosmetics.

• It imposes a minimum of 95% of the total

ingredients to come from natural origin.

• For natural and organic cosmetic label, a

minimum of 95% of all plant-based ingredients

in the formula and a minimum of 10% of all

ingredients by weight must come from organic

farming.

• For natural cosmetic label, a minimum of 50%

of all plant-based ingredients in the formula

and a minimum of 5% of all ingredients by

weight must come from organic farming.

Natural Product Association (NPA)

The Natural Product Association (NPA) is the

most widely used natural certification

program for personal care products.

• Products must be made up of only natural

ingredients.

• For each ingredient, the substance must be

listed as “generally recognized as safe” (GRAS)

by the FDA when used in accordance with

good manufacturing practices (GMP)

• Fragrances must be 100% natural.

Challenges Converting Synthetic to Natural Fragrances

• There are no naturally derived amber and musk materials

• There are no naturally derived lily and muguet materials

• Not all synthetic aroma chemicals have a natural equivalent

• There are no fruit essential oils

• The end product will most likely not have an identical odor

character as the target

• Expect higher prices…

No Mango Essential Oil…

Questions?

Return to Agenda

Fragrance Formulation & Stability

Jim Powell

R&D Director / Sr. Perfumer

Return to Agenda

Oxidation/Reduction

Oxidation of an organic molecule usually corresponds to decreasing its hydrogen content or to increasing its oxygen content.

RCH3 <-> RCH2OH <-> RCHO <-> RCOOH

Alkane Alcohol Aldehyde Acid

Reduction of an organic molecule usually corresponds to increasing its hydrogen content or to decreasing its oxygen content.

RCOOH <-> RCHO <-> RCH2OH <-> RCH3

Acid Aldehyde Alcohol Alkane

Oxidation is the preferred direction of reaction

Antioxidants

a-TocopherolBHT

BHA

Free Radicals

A free radical is an atom, molecule, or ion that has unpaired valence electrons or

an open electron shell and therefore may be seen as having one or more

“dangling” covalent bonds.

• Initiation reactions are those that result in a net increase in the number of free

radicals. They may involve the formation of free radicals from stable species

as in the reaction shown above or they may involve reactions of free radicals

with stable species to form more free radicals.

• Propagation reactions are those reactions involving free radicals in which the

total number of free radicals remains the same.

• Termination reactions are those reactions resulting in a net decrease in the

number of free radicals. Typically two free radicals combine to form a more stable species, for example: 2Cl·→ Cl2

Why amber bottles?

Light – UV (UV Absorbers)

Ultraviolet (UV) light is

electromagnetic radiation with a

wavelength shorter than that of

visible light, but longer than X-rays.

It is so-named because the

spectrum consists of

electromagnetic waves with

frequencies higher than those that

humans identify as the color violet

Benzophenone 1

Benzophenone 3

Unfragranced No UV Absorber With UV Absorber

Discoloration

Schiff’s Bases

Amine + Aldehyde

RCNH2 + OCR’ <-> RCNCR’ + H2O

Hydroxycitronellal Methyl Anthranilate

Aurantiol

+ = +

Water

H2O

What is a phenol?

• Class of chemicals containing an –OH functional group directly

bonded to a phenyl ring

Phenols, Fragrance and Stability

• Phenols play a key role in certain fragrance types

– Vanilla : Vanillin

– Sugar : Ethyl Maltol

– Spice : Eugenol

• Phenols readily react with charged metals such as copper,

magnesium, and iron

• Certain products are more likely to have these metals in the

base

Metal Complexes

Metallocene

EDTA

Vanillin

Iron: Red/Brown

Copper: Green/Blue

Temperature

• Temperature can be simulated in the

lab to predict the compatibility of

fragrances in applications.

• Reaction rate doubles for every 10oC

• Assuming the temperature is 25oC, one

year at room temperature would

correspond to:

– Three months at 45oC

– One month at 50oC

– This can be misleading, as reactions can

occur at 50oC that would not happen at

room temperature

Materials vs. pH

0

500

1000

1500

2000

2500

3000

3500

4000

4500

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Materials vs. pH

Number of Materials

• The pH directly influences

product stability.

• The addition of fragrance may

alter the pH of the final

formulation, or in worst cases,

disrupt the product.

• Unwanted reactions can occur

when introduced to acidic or

basic conditions, as the formula

will become less stable.

• An extreme product pH limits

fragrance ingredients that can

be used.

Issues in Product Categories

Personal Care

• Oxidation

• Temperature

• UV

• Discoloration

• Solubility

Air Fresheners

• Oxidation

• UV

• Metals

Candles

• Oxidation

• Temperature

• UV

• Discoloration

• Solubility

Industrial

• Oxidation

• Temperature

• UV

• Discoloration

• Solubility

Chelating Agents

• Chelating agents neutralize harmful metal ions found in water-based

formulations and processes.

• Protect against metal-catalyzed reactions that cause:

– product spoilage

– Discoloration

– Rancidity

– off-flavors/odors

• Improve efficacy of preservatives and antioxidants

• Play a crucial role in stability of personal care products

• Examples: – Disodium EDTA

– Tetrasodium EDTA

– Versene,Ammonium citrate dibasic

Neutralizers

• Chemicals that change the pH of a system to be closer

to neutral (pH of 7).

• Allow for optimum pH range the product to be effective.

• Many thickeners or preservatives rely on pH for optimum

performance.

Examples:– Triethanolamine (TEA),

– Sodium hydroxide (NaOH),

– Citric acid

– Glucono Delta lactone( GRAS)

– Lactic acid

– Aminomethyl propanol (AMP)-buffering agent

– Suttocide A- carbomer neutralizer

Product base formulation

• New product development

• Product reformulation/enhancement

– Stability of the finished product

– Microbiology

– Safety

– Regulatory

– New material integration

– Processing optimization

• Goals

– Cost effective

– Stable

– Safe for the consumers

– Conforming to regulatory inputs

– Marketable outputs (finished product)

Products: Conception to Consumer

Exploration– The process of creating and shaping product ideas.

– End goal: create product concepts that score high in consumer research testing

– R&D, Marketing, Production, Sales

Development– The process of turning ideas into functional prototypes

– Packaging developed or prototype testing

– Marketing refines their concept → appealing presentation to consumers

– R&D, Marketing

Commercialization– The process of turning prototypes into finished products

– Product performance and safety testing

– Order Raw materials and packaging, create dossiers for markets

– R&D assists scale up operations, answers consumers questions

– Production, R&D, Sales

Performance Parameters

• pH = -log10 (aH+)

pH <7 Acidic; pH >7 Basic

Safety and Consistency product= f(pH)

• Viscosity(cps)

Measure of resistance to stress

Thickness of liquid

• Rheometry

Studies the flow of liquids—Quantitative and Qualitative relationships

between deformations and stresses.

• Specific Gravity/Density (g/cm³)

• Refractive index

• Flash point(F)

• Determination of the active ingredients(%)

Analytical instruments (GC, HPLC, MS, FTIR), titrations

Stability Testing

• Ensures that a new or modified product meets the intended

physical, chemical and microbiological quality standards, as

well as functionality and aesthetics when stored under

appropriate conditions.

• Parameters to be monitored

– Integrity of the finished product

– Color, odor and appearance

– Weight changes in the container

– pH

– Viscosity

– Microbial tests

– Analytical data should be consistent.

• Methods– Accelerated conditions (heat and UV chambers)

– Temperature extremes (freeze - thaw)

The Formulation Ingredients

• Functional raw materials

– The ingredients that make personal

care/cosmetics products work

– Surfactants

– Active ingredients

• Aesthetic Raw Materials

– Added to simply modify the

aesthetics of the formula

– Fragrance

Surfactants

• Surface Active Agents

• Compounds that lower surface tension between two liquids, or that

between a liquid and solid.

• Molecularly composed of two parts:

– hydrophilic (water loving) "head“

– hydrophobic (water fearing) “tail“

• Variants:– Detergents (SLES, SLS, ALS, DLS, plantapon, gluco-tain clear)

– Emulsifiers (Stearic acid, cetyl alcohol, polysorbate, glycerin)

– Wetting agents (anionic, cationic, amphoteric)

– Foaming Agents (Betaines, SLES combinations)

– Dispersants (Polysorbates)

Surfactants as:

Detergents

• Surfactants added to water to act

as detergents

• Hydrophobic tails will be

surrounding the oil droplets

• Hydrophilic heads are attracted to

the water phase

• Allows water to briefly mix with oil

• Physical mechanism required to

remove residue

Thickening Agents

• Increase the viscosity of a solution or

liquid/solid mixture.

• Improved suspension strenghtens

product stability.

• Viscosity modifiers depend on:

– concentration and type of surfactants

– ratio of surfactants, T, pH,charge density

OILdroplet

Emulsions

• An emulsion (Latin word=“milk”) is a mixture of two/more liquids that are stabilized against separation, by incorporating the emulsifier.

• Surfactants act as emulsifiers

• The micelles = the small oil phase droplets covered by the emulsifier molecules.

• The emulsions may be:– water-in-oil(w/o)

– oil-in-water(o/w)

• Compatibility=f(polarity of oils)• HLB scale

– Water-oil balance – determines how to choose the best emulsifiers.

– Indicates the solubility of surfactant.

The Micelle

Active ingredients

• Materials defined as biologically active;

have interaction with or effect on any cell tissue in the human body

• Dosage dependant and classified as OTC drugs

• Regulated by Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act

• Must be listed first on the ingredient label

• Examples

– Sunscreens (benzophenone, octocrylene, avobenzone, homosalate)

– Acne treatment (salicylic acid, zinc oxide, cetrimonium bromide)

– Skin bleaching (Hydroquinone, Kojic acid, AHA, niacinamide, glutathione, Vitamin C)

– Dandruff treatment (zinc pyrithione, selenium sulfide, ketoconazole)

– Antiseptics (alcohols, benzalkonium chloride, cetrimide, triclosan)

– Antiperspirants (Al chlorohydrate, Al-Zr tetrachlorohydrate gly, methenamine)

– Antimicrobials (Triclosan, trichloroxylenol, trichlorocarbanilide)

Fragrances and their solubility

• Modern fragrances are complex formulated products, containing blends of synthetically derived aroma compounds, essential oils with auxiliary materials and solvents.

• Play large role in marketability and the appeal of product

• Generally taken as a single component in a formula, when in fact the fragrance can rich well over 100 components.

• The fragrances could possibly disrupt the effectiveness of emulsion andsurfactant base, generating:

-discolorations in emulsions

-viscosity variations of surfactants

• Fragrance solubility depends on:

- the polarity of their components

- the solvent polarity

- best solvent=f( finished product components)

Primary Fragrance Solvents

• Dipropylene Glycol– Polar solvent for hydrophilic bases

– PC products, industrial/sanitation, air fresheners

• Benzyl Benzoate– Non-polar solvent for lipophilic

bases

– Candles, lotion, PC products

– Cost effective

– On EU Allergen list

• Dioctyl Adipate– Candles

– Higher cost than BB

– Low density

– Compatible with light paraffin waxes

• Diethyl Phthalate– Non-polar solvent for lipophilic

bases

– Candles, industrial products

– High density

– Biodegradations

• Isopropyl Myristate– Compatible with most end products

– Candles, PC products

– No regulatory issues

– Expensive

Secondary Fragrance Solvents

• Ethanol– Fine fragrances, air care products

– Good all-purpose solvent

– Flammability issues

• Propylene Glycol– Inexpensive

– Not compatible with some less-polar fragrance materials

– Reactive with aldehydes

• Surfactants( non-ionic)– The lowest % of active surfactant

allows more perfume available to the headspace

– The greatest the number of micelles, the less odor intensity.

• Vegetable Oils– Natural fragrance solvent

– Not great with very polar materials or powders

• Medium Chain Triglycerides– More compatible than vegetable

oils

– Cost effective

– Natural

• Mineral Spirits– Air care products

– Not natural

– Not compatible with polar materials

Questions?

Describing Fragrance Odors

Jim Powell

R&D Director / Sr. Perfumer

Return to Agenda

Describe That Odor

• In 3 Words or Less

• It’s All in the Families

• Essential Oil Families Chart

• Breakdown of Woody & Spice Families

• Aroma Chemical Families Chart

• Breakdown of Marine & Green Families

• The Creative Puzzle

• Classification and Description of Fragrances

• Conclusion

• Questions

In 3 words or less…

• ORC0701981

• ORC1104751

• ORC1106631

It’s All in the Families

• Materials are classified into families

– Both essential oils and chemicals

– Attempt to classify each material with

a single family designation

• Works for most materials

• Some gray areas

• Complexity within families

– Blends of materials synthetic and essential oils

• Fragrances are typically combinations of materials

from different families

– Fragrance ORC1106631

• Mandarin Oil

• Ethyl-2-Methyl Butyrate

• Galaxolide

CITRUS LEMON BERGAMOT TANGERINE ORANGE MANDARINE BITTER ORANGE LIME GRAPEFRUIT

WOODY SANDALWOOD CEDARWOOD VETIVER PATCHOULI OAKMOSS ABS TREEMOSS ABS PINE NEEDLE OIL CYPRESS OIL GUAIACWOOD

SPICY CLOVE BUD CINNAMOM BAY NUTMEG PEPPER CUMIN CARDAMON CASSIA CORIANDER

FLORAL NEROLI PETITGRAIN MIMOSA ABS ORANGE FLOWER ABS ORRIS ABS VIOLET PAYS ABS VIOLET LVS ABS CHAMOMILE TAGETE

ANISE ANISE SWEET FENNEL BASIL TARRAGON MYRTLE CARAWAY

ROSE ROSE ABS ROSE OIL GERANIUM OIL GERANIUM BOUR. BOIS DE ROSE

LAVENDER LAVENDER ABS LAVENDER 40/42 LAVENDER 50/52 LAVANDIN GROSSOLAVANDIN ABRIALIS SPIKE LAVENDER

HERBAL LENTISQUE CARAWAY GINGER ROSEMARY THYME EUCALYPTUS MATE JUNIPER BERRY FENUGREEK

BALSAM PERU TOLU VANILLA TONKA CISTUS ABS LABDANUM

WHITE FLORAL JASMIN ABS TUBEROSE ABS YLANG YLANG

RESIN OLIBANUM BENZOIN OPOPONAX MYRRH ELEMI GALBANUM STYRAX

ANIMAL CIVET CASTOREUM

CITRONELLA CITRONELLA CY CITRONELLA JAVA LEMONGRASS CITRONELLAL LITSEA CUBEBA

MINT PEPPERMINT SPEARMINT PENNYROYAL MARJORAM CORNMINT

PINE PINE NEEDLE PINE YARMOUR FIR BALSAM CYPRESS

MISC. VANILLA ABS SEAWEED ABS BLACK CURRANT ABS ARMOISE

TABLE OF ESSENTIAL OILS AND ABSOLUTES

• Sandalwood

• Cedarwood

• Vetiver

• Patchouli

• Cypress

• Guaicwood

Woody Essential Oil Family

• Clove Bud & Clove Leaf

• Cinnamon Leaf & Cinnamon Bark

• Cassia

• Nutmeg

• Black Pepper

• Cumin

Spice Essential Oil Family

AMBER AMBROXAN AMBRINOL KEPHALIS AMBROCENIDE KARANAL CEDRAMBER

ALDEHYDIC ALD C-8 ALD C-9 ALD C-10 ALD C-11 LIC ALD C-11 LENIC ALD C-12 LAURIC ALD C-12 MNA INTRELEVEN ALD

ANIMAL INDOLE SKATOLE IBQ ANIMALIS GRISALVA INDOLAROME PHENYL ACETIC ACID ETHYL PHENYL ACET.

WOODY CEDRYL ACETATE KEPHALIS VERTOFIX VETIVER ACETATE CEDROL ISO E SUPER IONONE ALPHA VERTENEX

CITRUS CITRAL CITRONELLAL CITRONELLYL NITRILE DIPENTENE RHUBAFURAN CITRATHAL MANDARINAL

FLORAL LINALOOL TERPINEOL HYDROXYCITRONELLAL NEROL TERPINYL ACETATE AMYL SAL. DIMETOL NEROL

FLORAL LYRAL LILIAL CYCLAMEN ALD. HEDIONE FLOROL STYRALLYL ACET. BOURGEONAL

FRUITY AMYL ACETATE ETHYL ACETATE ALD. C-14 ALD. C-16 ALD. C-18 E2METH BUTYRATE PHENOXY ETHYL ISO BUTY. VERDOX

FRUITY NONADIENAL ALLYL CYCLO PROP ALLYL CAPROATE MELONAL ETHYL PROP. FRUCTONE ALPHA DAMASCONE

GREEN ISO ANANATE C3H ACETATE C3 HEXENOL TRIPLAL HEXYL ACETATE TRANS 2 HEXENAL CYCLACET

JASMIN BENZYL ACETATE AMYL CINN. ALD. BENZYL PROPIONATE BENZYL CINNAMATE BENZYL SAL. BENZYL ALCOHOL CIS JASMONE

MARINE/OZONE CALONE DIHYDRO MYRCENOL SCENTENAL FLORALOZONE PRECYCLEMONE B FLORHYDRAL ADOXAL

MINTY/CAMPHOR MENTHOL CAMPHOR CRY. MENTHYL ACETATE L CARVONE MENTHONE CAMPHOR OIL ANETHOLE

MUSK MUSK XYLOL TONALID GALAXOLIDE HABANOLIDE AMBRETTOLIDE ETHYLENE BRASS. EXALTOLIDE MUSK 144 (ED)

NEROLI LINALYL ACETATE METHYL ANTH. NEROLIN CRYSTALS YARA YARA DIMETHYL ANTH. ANISIC ALD.

PINE ISO BORNYL ACET ALPHA PINENE BETA PINENE TERPINOLENE UNIPINE VERDOL

ROSE CITRONELLOL PEA GERANIOL PHEN ETH ACETATE PhEtPh ACETATE DAMASCONE BETA GERANYL ACETATE GERANYL BUTYRATE

SANDALWOOD SANDELA EBANOL SANDALORE SANJINOL BACDANOL OSYROL JAVANOL

SPICY CINNAMIC ALDEHYDE EUGENOL ISO EUGENOL METHYL ISO EUGENOL CINNAMIC ALCOHOL METHYL DIANTILIS CIMINIC ALD.

SWEETNERS VANILLIN ETH. VANILLIN HELIOTROPINE COUMARIN VANITROPE MALTOL ETH MALTOL COUMAREX

VIOLET MOC UNDECAVERTOL VELOUTONE IONONE BETA IRALIA VIOLETTYNE IONONE GAM. METH

TABLE OF AROMA CHEMICALS

Marine Aroma Chemical Family

• Calone

• Dihydro Myrcenol

• Scentenal

• Floralozone

• Adoxal

Green Aroma Chemical Family

• Cis-3-Hexenyl Acetate

• Cis-3-Hexenol (Leaf Alcohol)

• Triplal

• Hexyl Acetate

• Verdyl Acetate

The Creative Puzzle

Materials

Learning to identify and classify materials

Creativity

The creative process begins at this step

Accords

Not every rose is a rose is a rose

M & A

This is where it gets interesting

Fragrances

“Fresh and Clean”

Classification and Description of Fragrances

• It’s “Fresh and Clean”

– Universal consumer term for “I like It”

– As professionals we should avoid its usage

• Finished fragrances are like materials in classification but…

– Typically a combination of several families

• Fruity-floral, citrus-green, lavender-herbal

• Described by more dominant note

• Top, Middle and Base Notes

– Not always appropriate

Conclusion

• Communication is key

• The same words can describe different fragrances

• Essential oils and aroma chemicals are classified into families

• Fragrances are a combination of both

• “Fresh and Clean”

• Finished fragrance classifications

• Top, middle and base notes

Questions?

Return to Agenda

Return to Agenda

Fragrance Pricing

John Little

Perfumer

Why should we talk about it?

• We’re asking for your money; you deserve to know how we

approach costs and what that means for your fragrances

• We believe transparency about our pricing fosters a dialogue that

helps us create better fragrances for our customers

• Price is no different than character: every customer has unique

requirements and limitations

• Price is a critical consideration during fragrance creation and directly

impacts:– Character

– Quality

– Strength

– Performance

So, what am I paying for?

• Our pricing depends on three factors:

1. Labor

2. Raw material cost (RMC)

3. Keeping the lights on

• Some materials simply cost more

– Constant evaluation of new and old materials from different suppliers

– Balancing character and cost

• Longer formulas take longer to produce– Every extra material is an extra step in manufacturing your fragrance

– The average length of a formula varies widely, but can easily exceed 40 unique materials

– A 400lb order is not 16x more labor intensive than 25lb; we pass these savings to our customers

What this means to you

• The factors effecting how we quote a fragrance (cost of labor plus

materials) are essentially fixed

• Something has to give

• Lowering the cost of a fragrance requires changing it

• Information about customers’ cost requirements will never impact our

price quote – Tiered pricing is automatically calculated using RMC and line items

– Perfumers are only concerned with getting you the best fragrance possible

• Changing the price of a fragrance changes the fragrance. – Character, quality, strength, and performance will suffer

– Sharing your unique pricing requirements gives us the opportunity

How we make fragrances cheaper

• Dilution– Solvents such as Benzyl Benzoate, Dipropylene Glycol, Isopropyl Myristate are cheap

and are odorless

– Can improve solubility in finished application

– Very effective when initial fragrance is very expensive

– Less effective when fragrance is already very dilute

– Negatively impacts strength

• Substitute materials– Similar smelling, but cheaper materials can stand in for the more expensive ones

– Changes the character

– Imitation is flattering, but not a true replacement

– A single material might require multiple to substitute (Recons)

• Reduce materials– Lowers labor

– Combine similar smelling materials

Replace

Ambermor

• Sophisticated amber material

• Excellent impact and

character in most applications

• Very long lasting performance

• Excellent fabric care

performance

• Quality is highly dependent on

supplier

$328.85/lb

Ambermor Recon

• Combination of five aroma

chemicals and one natural

• Commonly used materials

available from multiple

suppliers

$7.47/lb

Replace and/or Reduce

Dynascone

• Exceptional bloom and impact

• Long lasting

• Popular note in men’s types

• Long lasting performance in

laundry care

• Patented material limited to

one supplier

$69.85/lb

Isoananate

• Single aroma chemical with

green galbanum and

pineapple like nuances

• Commonly used in

combination with similar

materials such as Dynascone

• Multiple suppliers

$14.51/lb

Balancing Act

• Optimizing a fragrance normally requires multiple approaches

• A fragrance will change in proportion to the original and final cost– No amount of creativity can replace money and materials

• Some fragrances are easier to reduce in cost than others– Key materials may dramatically change the starting character

– A perfumer may use their expertise to recommend an alternative depending on the flexibility of the project

• It can be hard to predict how expensive a duplication will cost

beforehand– Analysis may determine the costs being well above an acceptable price point

– Having a familiarity of what price is acceptable beforehand can slash development time and get a fragrance out sooner

• Communication on price is just as important as character and

product type

Questions?

Return to Agenda

Return to Agenda

Fragrance Regulations & Safety

Cara Rogers

Perfumer

What does it mean to be regulated?

• All industries are effected by regulations

• Create and enforce rules that might not otherwise be

followed for a common good

• Regulations are complex and often overlap

• Can effect related industries not within the initial scope of

regulations

IFRA

• Self- regulating system of the fragrance industry

• Based on risk assessments carried out by an

independent expert panel

• GOAL – safe use of fragrance ingredients

• Globally accepted and recognized risk

management system

RIFMResearch Institute for Fragrance Materials

• Scientific arm of IFRA

• Expert panel that instructs IFRA to issue a standard

• Comprehensive dossiers on the fragrance materials

• Expert panel: dermatology, toxicology, pathology and

environmental sciences

• 174 substances that are either banned, have specifications or

are restricted in their use in fragrance products

IFRA Categories

• Restrictions are specific to product categories

• Different products have different exposure risks

– Candles (category 11) vs. lip balm (category 1)

• Started in 2006 with the 40th amendment (48th as of 2015)

• Before the 40th amendment—leave on and rinse off products

• Fragrance materials are evaluated for their Quantitative Risk

Assessment (QRA) for each category

– SAF: sensitization assessment level

– CEL: consumer exposure level

– AEL: acceptable exposure level

IFRA Standards

• Prohibited: cannot use at all (0.1% is acceptable as

“unavoidable impurities” in raw materials such as essential oils)

• Restricted: can use the material but only below a certain

concentration in the finished product

• Specification: adhere to specific purity criteria

Fragrance Development

• Fragrances are always formulated to be skin safe according to:

– End user

– Product type

– Usage level

• Changes to any of the above requires reevaluating the

fragrance for suitability in final product

• Discuss potential/probable line extensions with salespeople

• Raw materials are continually reviewed for safety

• Changes in IFRA standards impact existing fragrances

Questions?

Return to Agenda

Valerie Sprovieri

Marketing Specialist

Return to Agenda

Deriving Fragrance Trends

Whether B2B or B2C, I passionately

believe that good marketing

essentials are all the same. We are

all emotional beings looking for

relevance, context, and connection.

– Beth Comstock, CEO of General Electric

Market Research Resources

Partnering with Orchidia provides you

with insightful market research from a

variety of marketing services.

We are always available in the event you

need additional research or consultation.

Active Subscriptions

• Mintel GNPD and Market Insight

• Statista: Statistics Global Database

– Euromonitor International

– Datamonitor

Additional Resources

• Trade Publications and Associations

• Trade Conferences and Exhibitions

• Google Alerts and Google Trends

• Social Media Monitoring

Example Research |

Top Fragrance Groups in Personal Care Products

North America, 2014 - 2016

1 Floral

2 Fantasy

3 Gourmet/Edible

4 Fruity & Gourmet/Edible

5 Green/Herbal/Woody

6 Aromatherapy/Mood Enhancement

7 Fruity & Floral

8 Citrus

9 Outdoor

10 Locational

When looking at a

customers’ product line,

we use similar data to

perform a gap analysis.

Example Research |

0.0%

10.0%

20.0%

30.0%

40.0%

50.0%

60.0%

Spray Plug-in/Electric Candle Liquid/ oil Potpourri

2012 2013 2014 2015 2016

U.S. Market Share of Air Care Products (2012 – 2016)

Very little change

in market share

over the past five

years.

Trends Are a Funny Thing

✓ Unpredictable & Challenging

✓ Is it a fad or a trend?

✓ Will history repeat itself?

✓ All Your Eggs in One Basket

✓ Consumer Perception

That is so fetch!

Stop trying to make ‘fetch’ happen!

That is so fetch!

Our Research Methodology

Creating scents that connect with people on an

olfactory and emotional level is no small challenge.

That is why Orchidia approaches this important

undertaking in an exceptionally robust and

painstaking way.

The Human Algorithm, is a process by which we

take an exhaustive look at key facets of life today:

✓ Music

✓ Food

✓ Beverage

✓ Fashion

✓ Education

✓ Environment

✓ Economics

✓ Politics

✓ Social Media

✓ Technology

✓ Science

✓ Architecture

✓ Design

✓ Art

✓ Apps

✓ Urban Planning

✓ Entertainment

✓ Travel/Leisure

✓ Latin America

✓ Asia

✓ Europe

The Human Algorithm | 2017 Trends

ARTISAN

VISUAL INFLUENCE

GLOBALIZATION

DISRUPTIVE IDEAS

Season of the Witch 2017

Orchidia Fragrance Trend Kits

Evolutions of Man

Various Orchidia fragrance kits from

throughout the years. Click on a thumbnail

to play video.

Americana Fragrances ICE Fragrances

Season of the Witch 2016

2018 Fragrance Trends Coming Soon

For more information, please contact your

Orchidia sales representative.

www.orchidia.com | sales@orchidia.com