Welcome to the start of the Stylecraft Frida’s Flowers ... · Welcome to the start of the Stylecraft Frida’s Flowers Blanket Crochet Along designed by ... see our Crochet Along

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Welcome to the start of the Stylecraft Frida’s Flowers Blanket Crochet Along designed by Jane Crowfoot using one of our most popular Summer yarns Classique Cotton DK. Alternative shades in Special DK

and Life DK are also available and details of these can be found on our shade list which is available from our website: http://www.stylecraft-yarns.co.uk/Crochet.htm

Over the next 15 weeks we will be bringing you a new block every fortnight. The dates for your diary are: 5 April, 19 April, 3 May, 17 May, 31 May, 14 June, 28 June and 12 July.

The patterns will focus on one motif every fortnight and you will need to complete an average of 4 motifs per set.

We will set out at the beginning of each block which colours and equipment you will need. We will always repeat abbreviations at the beginning of each pattern.

For general hints and tips please see our Crochet Along Introduction pdf which can be found here: http://www.stylecraft-yarns.co.uk/Crochet.htm

Block 1 – White CosmosFrida Kahlo loved her home and garden. The ‘Blue House’ where she was born and that she later

shared with Diego Rivera is now preserved as Frida’s beloved gardens where she spent a lot of time and surrounded herself with native Mexican plants and flowers.

The first motif is pretty straightforward with a small cosmos flower sitting at the centre of a pretty plain double crochet motif. We have cosmos in our garden in the summer, but they are a native flower of

Mexico and are bound to have grown in Frida’s garden at the Blue House.

Use this motif as the template for all your others and try your best to make sure the width measurement is as close to 20cm (8in) as possible. You will need to make sure you check your stitch count at the end of each round and keep an eye on the consistency of your double crochet stitches. If you find your piece is coming up too big or too small take a minute to read the notes about how you work a double stitch

as well as the notes on tension.

The next Block is available 19 April.

EQUIPMENTSize E/4 and G/6 (3.5mm & 4mm) hookSewing needle

MEASUREMENTPre blocked – 7¾in (19.5cm) wide at widest point

ABBREVIATIONSch(s) chain(s)cm centimeter(s)dc double crochetin inch(es)RS right sidesc single crochet sp(s) space(s)

ss slip stitchst(s) stitch(es)tch turning chainWS wrong side

NOTES:Fastening Off and rejoining Yarn You will achieve a much neater color change if you complete rounds and fasten off the yarn, rather than joining mid stitch. When fastening off a yarn at the end of a round, the slip stitch that you have made to join can look like a stitch when you are working the following round. Make sure you count correctly and do not count the slip stitch as a stitch when working subsequent rounds.

Dealing with yarn ends I tend to sew yarn ends in as I go along—doing this makes the finishing process much easier as you will have less to do. Sewing yarn ends in as you go along also means that you are less likely to loose stitches or make errors with your tension.

WARNING-COPYRIGHT This publication is protected by the law of copyright. It is at your disposal free of charge. Please do not make any changes to the pattern. The reselling of Stylecraft free patterns in any form is prohibited. For information regarding sharing of Stylecraft free patterns please see http://www.stylecraft-yarns.co.uk/copyright.htm

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Although every effort has been made to ensure that instructions are correct, Stylecraft cannot accept any liabilities. In the unlikely event that there are errors in the patterns we will work as quickly as possible to issue an addenda.

Stylecraft cannot accept responsibility for the result of using any other yarn.

Block 1 – White Cosmos (make 4)

Yarns used:

3097Leaf

3665 Ivory

3567Plum

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METHODUsing Leaf & size G/6 (4mm) hook, ch5, join with a ss to form a ring

Foundation Round: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 12sc into ring, ss to join, (12sts)

Round 1: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc into next st, * ch2, skip next st, 1sc into next st; repeat from * to end, omitting last sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (6sts & 6ch sps)

Round 2: Using Ivory join yarn into any ch sp by working ch1 (does not count as a st), [1sc, 3dc, 1sc] into same ch sp, * [1sc, 3dc, 1sc] into next ch sp; repeat from * to end, ss to join, fasten off (6 petals made)

Round 3: (RS facing) Using Plum & size E/4 (3.5mm) hook & working from behind the flower you have just made, join yarn into any skipped sc made on Foundation Round by working ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc into st at base of ch-1, ch3, * 1sc into next skipped st, ch3; repeat from * to end, ss to join, (6sts & 6ch sps)

Round 4: ss into next ch sp, ch3 (counts as 1dc), 4dc into ch sp at base of ch-3, ch1, * 5dc into next ch sp, ch1; repeat from * to end, ss to 3rd ch of ch-3 made at beginning of round to join, (30sts & 6 ch sps)

Round 5: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into st at base of ch-3, 1dc into next st (the 1st true dc made on the previous round), 1dc into each next 2sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch, * 2dc into next st, 1dc into each next 3sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch; repeat from * to end, ss to join (42sts & 6ch sps)


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Round 9: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into st at base of ch-3, 1dc into next st (the 1st true dc made on the previous round), 1dc into each next 10sts, 2dc into next st, * 3dc into next ch sp, 2dc into next st (this is the ch that leads into the next dc & sits above it—it might be difficult to see as part of it may be covered by the 3dc you have just made into the ch sp), 1dc into each next 11sts, 2dc into next st; repeat from * to last ch sp, 3dc into ch sp, ss to join (108sts)

Round 10: Using size G/6 (4mm) hook ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc into each next 15sts, [3sc into next st, 1sc into each next 17sts] 5 times, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each next 2sts, ss to join, fasten off (120sts)

Sew in yarn endsPlace stitch marker into corner sts (central st of 3sc) if required

Pre Blocked Measurement: 7¾in (19.5cm) at widest point

Half White CosmosUsing Leaf & size G/6 (4mm) hook ch5, join with a ss to form a ring


Round 1: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc into next st, * ch2, skip next st, 1sc into next st; repeat from * to end, omitting last sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (6sts & 6ch sps)


Round 3: (RS facing) Using Plum & size E/4 (3.5mm) hook & working from behind the flower you have just made, join yarn into any skipped sc made on Foundation Round by working ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc into st at base of ch-1, ch3, * 1sc into next skipped st, ch3; repeat from * to end, ss to join, (6sts & 6ch sps)

These 3 rows are the same as for the main piece – please refer to the pictures on page 3.

From this point you are going to work in rows rather than in rounds, this means you need to turn at the end of each row.Check that you have the correct side facing you at all times. (WS) means wrong side facing(RS) means right side facing


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Row 1: (RS facing) ss into next ch sp, ch3 (counts as 1dc), 5dc into same ch sp, ch1, 5dc into next ch sp, ch1, 6dc into next ch sp, turn (17sts & 2 ch sps)

Row 2: (WS facing) Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into st at base of ch-3, 1dc into each next 4sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch, 2dc into next st, (because you are WS facing this st looks like it is beyond the post of the last dc of group made on the previous row), 1dc into each next 3sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each next 4sts, 2dc into 3rd ch of tch made at beginning of last row, turn (23sts & 2ch sps)

Row 3: (RS facing) Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into st at base of ch-3, 1dc into each next 6sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each next 5sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each next 6sts, 2dc into 3rd ch of tch made at beginning of last row, turn (29sts & 2ch sps)

Row 4: (WS facing) Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into st at base of ch-3, 1dc into each next 8sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each next 7sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each next 8sts, 2dc into 3rd ch of tch made at beginning of last row, turn (35sts & 2ch sps)

Row 5: (RS facing) Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into st at base of ch-3, 1dc into each next 10sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each next 9sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each next 10sts, 2dc into 3rd ch of tch made at beginning of last row, turn (41sts & 2ch sps)

Row 6: (WS facing) Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into st at base of ch-3, 1dc into each next 12sts, 2dc into next st, 3dc into next ch sp, 2dc into next st (as before—this st is beyond the post of the dc), 1dc into each next 11sts, 2dc into next st, 3dc into next ch sp, 2dc into next st as before, 1dc into each next 12 sts, 2dc into 3rd ch of tch made at beginning of last row, turn (53sts)

Row 7: Using size G/6 (4mm) hook ch1 (does not count as a st), 3sc into st at base of ch-1, 1sc into each next 16sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each next 17sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each next 16sts, 3sc into 3rd ch of tch made at beginning of last row, fasten off (61sts)

Sew in yarn endsPlace stitch marker into corner sts if required


Joining your piecesYou will join them together using single crochet and a size G/6 (4mm) hook. To save yarn, you could use slip stitch instead, but will need to use a larger hook (size 7 / 4.5mm).When joining, corner sts on the motifs need to be used more than once.You can use Plum to join Block One, if you are running out of Black.


Frida’s Flowers Blanket – Block 2

Dahlia Bud

US Terms

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Block 2 – Dahlia BudDahlias are a native flower to Mexico and they often featured in Frida’s work and in traditional Mexican

embroidery designs. The Dahlia flower’s birthplace was the mountainous region of Mexico and Guatemala and the Dahlia Pinnata is the national flower of Mexico so you can see why they feature in

the work of Frida and her husband Diego Rivera.

Dahlias are mostly large pom pom like flowers and so I felt the popcorn stitches would help capture the idea of a robust layered flower in this motif. Like Block One, this is quite a straightforward motif, but

if you are using Special DK or Life DK instead of the cotton Classique yarn you may find you have to block the piece to achieve a true hexagon shape.

The popcorn stitch will be used again later on at the centre of another motif.

The next block will be available 3 May.

Block 2 – Dahlia Bud (make 4)

Yarns used:

EQUIPMENTSize E/4 & G/6 (3.5mm & 4mm) hook Sewing needle

MEASUREMENTPre blocked – 8in (20cm) wide at widest point

ABBREVIATIONSch(s) chain(s)cm centimeter(s)dc double crochetdc2tog work double crochet sts together (1 st decreased)hdc half double crochetin inch(es)

RS right sidesc single crochetsp(s) space(s)ss slip stitch st(s) stitch(es)tch turning chainWS wrong side



Pattern Note MP: Make PopcornMake 5dc, remove hook from last loop. Making sure that the stitch does not unravel, insert hook into top of 1st double crochet of 5dc group from the front.Place the yarn loop from the top of the 5th double crochet back onto the hook so that there are 2 “sts” on the hook. Wrap yarn round hook and draw through to form a popcorn.

3662Sunflower

3665 Ivory

3669Nocturne


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Block 2 – Dahlia Bud (make 4)

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METHODUsing Sunflower & size G/6 (4mm) hook ch5, join with a ss to form a ring

Foundation Round: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 12sc into ring, ss to join, fasten off (12sts)

Round 1: Using Ivory, join yarn into any st by working ch1 + ch2 (counts as 1st dc of popcorn), MP into same st, ch3, skip next st, * MP into next st, ch3, skip next st; repeat from * to end, ss to join, fasten off (6 popcorns made)

Round 2: Using Nocturne & size E/4 (3.5mm) hook join yarn into any ch-3 sp by working ch1 + ch1 (counts as 1hdc), 4hdc into same ch sp, ch1, * 5hdc into next ch sp, ch1; repeat from * to end, ss to 2nd ch of ch-2 made at beginning of round to join, (30sts & 6 ch sps)

Round 3: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into st at base of ch-3, 1dc into next st, (the 1st true hdc made on the previous round), 1dc into each next 2sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch, * 2dc

into next st (this st is the ch that leads into the top of the next hdc—it looks like it sits before the post of the hdc), 1dc into each next 3sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch; repeat from * to end, ss to join (42sts & 6ch sps)


Round 5: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into next st (the 1st true dc made on the previous round), * 1dc into each next 5sts, dc2tog over next 2sts, ch3, 1sc into next ch sp, ch3, dc2tog over next 2sts; repeat from * to end, omitting dc2tog over 2sts on final pattern repeat, skip 3ch, ss to top of next dc to join (42sts & 12 ch sps with 1sc in between)

Round 6: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into next st, * 1dc into each next 3sts, dc2tog over next 2sts, [ch3, 1sc into next ch sp] twice, 3ch, dc2tog over next 2sts; repeat from * to end, omitting dc2tog over 2sts on final pattern repeat, skip 3ch

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made at beginning of round, ss to top of next dc to join (30sts & 18 ch sps)

Round 7: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into next st, * 1dc into next st, dc2tog over next 2sts, [ch3, 1sc into next ch sp] 3 times, ch3, dc2tog over next 2sts; repeat from * to end, omitting dc2tog over 2sts on final pattern repeat, skip 3ch made at beginning of round, ss to top of next dc to join (18sts & 24 ch sps)

Round 8: Using size G/6 (4mm) hook ch1 (does not count as a st), skip st at base of ch-1, * 5hdc into next st (this is the central dc of group made at tip of petal shape), skip next st, [3sc into next ch sp] twice, 1sc into next sc, [3sc into next ch sp] twice, skip next st; repeat from * to end, ss to join (108sts)

Round 9: Ch1, (does not count as a st) 1sc into next st, * 3sc into next st, 1sc into each next 17sts; repeat from * to end, omitting 1sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (120sts)


Pre Blocked Measurement: 8in (20cm) at widest point

Joining your pieces as you workIf you want to join your motifs as you make them, do not fasten off at the end of the last round

Using size G/6 (4mm) hook, ss into each next 2sts so that your hook is in the central sc of 3sc group

Using the layout diagram as your reference, ch1, holding the correct block in front, with RS facing inwards, 1sc into central sc of 3sc group made at corner of block & the corresponding st on the other block so that your hook is through 2 sts, 1sc into the sts, work 1sc into all corresponding pairs of sts on both pieces all the way along to the central scs at next corners, working the final sc into the central sts, at corner, fasten off

Repeat for all 4 motifs

Half Dahlia BudUsing Sunflower & size G/6 (4mm) hook ch 5, join with a ss to form a ring


Round 1: Using Ivory, join yarn into any st by working ch1 + ch2 (counts as 1st dc of popcorn), MP into same st, ch3, skip next st, * MP into next st, ch3, skip next st; repeat from * to end, ss to join, fasten off (6 popcorns made)

From this point you are going to work in rows rather than in rounds, this means you need to turn at the end of each row.Check that you have the correct side facing you at all times. (WS) means wrong side facing(RS) means right side facing


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Row 1: (RS facing) Using Nocturne & size E/4 (3.5mm) hook join yarn into any ch-3 sp by working ch1 + ch1 (counts as 1hdc), 2hdc into same ch sp, ch1, [5hdc into next ch sp, ch1] twice, 3hdc into next ch sp, turn (16sts & 3 ch sps)

Row 2: (WS facing) Ch3 (counts as 1dc), skip st at base of ch-3, 1dc into next st, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch, [2dc into next st, 1dc into each next 3sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch] twice, 2dc into next st, 1dc into next st, 1dc into 2nd ch of 2tch made at beginning of last row, turn (22sts & 3ch sps)

Row 3: (RS facing) Ch3 (counts as 1dc), skip st at base of ch-3, 1dc into each next 2sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch, [2dc into next st, 1dc into each next 5sts, 2dc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch] twice, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each next 2sts, 1dc into 3rd ch of tch made at beginning of last row, turn (28sts & 3ch sps)

Row 4: (WS facing) Ch3 (counts as 1dc), skip st at base of ch-3, 1dc into each next 2sts, dc2tog over next 2sts, ch3, 1sc into next ch sp, ch3, [dc2tog over next 2sts, 1dc into each next 5sts, dc2tog over next 2sts, ch3, 1sc into next ch sp, ch3] twice, dc2tog over next 2sts, 1dc into each next 2sts, 1dc into 3rd ch of tch made at beginning of last row, turn (22sts & 6 ch sps)

Row 5: (RS facing) Ch3 (counts as 1dc), skip st at base of ch-3, 1dc into next st, dc2tog over next 2sts, [ch3, 1sc into next ch sp] twice, ch3, * dc2tog over next 2sts, 1dc into each next 3sts, dc2tog over next 2sts, [ch3, 1sc into next ch sp,] twice, ch3; repeat from *, dc2tog over next 2sts, 1dc into next st, 1dc into 3rd ch of tch made at beginning of last row, turn (16sts & 9ch sps)

Row 6: (WS facing) Ch3 (counts as 1dc), skip st at base of ch-3, dc2tog over next 2sts, [ch3, 1sc into next ch sp] 3 times, ch3, * dc2tog over next 2sts, 1dc into next st, dc2tog over next 2sts, [ch3, 1sc into next ch sp,] 3 times, ch3; repeat from * , dc2tog over next 2sts, 1dc into 3rd ch of tch made at beginning of last row, turn (10sts & 12ch sps)

Row 7: Using size G/6 (4mm) hook ch2 (counts as 1hdc), 2hdc into st at base of ch-2, * [3sc into next ch sp] twice, 1sc into next sc, [3sc into next ch sp] twice, skip next st, 5hdc into next st (this is the central dc of group made at tip of petal shape); repeat from * , [3sc into next ch sp] twice, 1sc into next sc, [3sc into next ch sp] twice, skip next st, 3hdc into 3rd ch of tch made at beginning of last row, fasten off, do not turn (55sts)


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Row 8: (RS facing) Using size G/6 (4mm) hook, join yarn into 2nd ch of ch-2 made at beginning of last row by working ch1 (does not count as a st), 2sc into same st, * 1sc into each next 17sts, 3sc into next st; repeat from * to end, omitting 1sc (of 3sc group) on final pattern repeat, fasten off (61sts)

Sew in yarn endsPlace stitch marker into corner sts if required


Joining your piecesUsing Nocturne & size G/6 (4mm) hook & using the layout diagram as your reference, & holding the correct block in front, with RS facing inwards, join yarn into pair of corresponding corner sts on both blocks by working ch1, work 1sc into all corresponding pairs of sts on both pieces all the way along to the central scs at next corners, working the final sc into the central sts, at corner, fasten off


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Bird of Paradise

US Terms

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Block 3 – Bird of ParadiseWhen I design a project made up of lots of different motifs and pieces I tend to design from the middle

out. In the case of Frida’s Flower Blanket I designed Ring of Roses (which has now become Block 6) first, followed by the central motif so that I had an idea of the formation of the focal point of the blanket and could then design the pieces to slot in around them. I suppose in effect I worked in the reverse way

to you, starting with the more complicated pieces first, then designing the simpler motifs.

In 1943 Frida Kahlo painted a picture called ‘Self Portrait with monkeys, bird of paradise flower’. It is a painting that I really love, partly because the monkeys look like they are protecting Frida and are a little worried about her, but also because of the beautiful Strelitzia flower (bird of paradise) and leaves that

Frida has painted in behind her.

This block is a little harder to make than the blocks you have already made. You need to make 4 so it is my suggestion that you work in stages, completing the 4 pieces in unison to each of your chosen

stages, even if this means doing just a round at a time on each one.


Block 3 – Bird of Paradise (make 4) – Yarns used:

EQUIPMENTSize G/6 (4mm) hook used throughoutSewing needle


ABBREVIATIONSch(s) chain(s)cm centimeter(s)dc double crochetdc2tog work 2 double crochet sts together (1 st decreased)dc3tog work 3 double crochet sts together (2 sts decreased)hdc half double crochet

RS right sidesc single crochetsp(s) space(s)ss slip stitch st(s) stitch(es)tch turning chainWS wrong side



Joining your pieces You will join them together using single crochet and a size G/6 (4mm) hook. To save yarn, you could use slip stitch instead, but will need to use a larger hook (size 7 / 4.5mm).When joining, corner sts on the motifs need to be used more than once.



3567Plum

3097Leaf

3095Greek Blue

3672Poppy

3656Toffee

3665 Ivory

3662Sunflower

3093Black

3669Nocturne

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Block 3 – Bird of Paradise (make 4)

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Round 1: Using Plum, join yarn into any st by working ch1 + ch2 (counts as 1st dc of popcorn), MP into same st, ch3, skip next st, * MP into next st, ch3, skip next st; repeat from * to end, ss to join, fasten off (6 popcorns made)

Round 2: Using Poppy join yarn into any ch-3 sp by working ch1 (does not count as a st), 5sc into same ch sp, ch1, * 5sc into next ch sp, ch1; repeat from * to end, ss to join, fasten off (30sts & 6ch sps)

Round 3: Using Leaf join yarn into any ch-1 sp by working ch1 + ch2, dc2tog into same ch sp (counts as dc3tog), ch3, dc3tog into same ch sp, ch5, * [dc3tog, ch3, dc3tog] into next ch sp, ch5; repeat from * to end, ss to join, fasten off

Round 4: Using Greek Blue, join yarn into any ch-3 sp by working ch1 + ch2, (counts as 1dc), 6dc into same ch sp, ch3, * skip ch-5 sp, 7dc into next ch-3 sp, ch3; repeat from * to end, ss to join, fasten off (42sts & 6ch sps)

Round 5: Using Nocturne join yarn into 2nd ch of any ch-3 group made on previous round by working ch1, (does not count as a st), 1sc into same ch, * ch1, skip 1ch, 1sc into each next 2sts, [ch1, 1sc into next st] 4 times, 1sc into next st, ch1, skip 1ch, 1sc into next ch; repeat from * to end, omitting last 1sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off

Measurement: 4¾in (12cm) across center—widest point of petal to petal

Round 6: Using Toffee join yarn into any sc made in ch between petals on previous round by working ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc into same st, * ch2, skip 1ch & 2sc, 1sc into next ch sp, [ch1, 1sc into next ch sp] 3 times, ch2, skip 2sc & 1ch, 1sc into next sc; repeat from * to end, omitting last sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off


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Round 7: Using Black and working at the reverse side of the flower (but with RS facing) join yarn through back of central sc of group made on flower on Round 5 (Nocturne) by working ch1 (counts as 1sc), * ch5, working to the front of the 3 previous rounds dc3tog into ch-5 sp made on Round 3 (Leaf), ch5, 1sc into back of central sc of next group made on Round 5 (Nocturne); repeat from * to end, omitting last 1sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off

Round 8: Using Sunflower, join yarn into ch sp made on round 6 (Toffee) to the left of any dc3tog made on previous round by working ch1 (does not counts as a st), 2sc into same ch sp, * [ch1, 2sc into next ch sp] 4 times, ch2, skip dc3tog, 2sc into next ch sp; repeat from * 4 times, [ch1, 2sc into next ch sp] 4 times, ch2, ss to join, fasten off

Round 9: Using Ivory join yarn into first ch-1 sp of 4 x ch-1 sps (between 2 sets of 2sc) made on previous round by working ch1 + ch2, dc2tog into same ch sp (counts as dc3tog), * [ch3, dc3tog into next ch sp] 3 times, ch3, skip 2sc & 2ch & 2sc, dc3tog into next ch sp; repeat from * to end, omitting dc3tog on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off

Round 10: Using Black join yarn into central ch sp of 4 petal group made on previous round by working ch1 (does not count as a st), 5sc into same ch sp, * 4sc into next ch sp, 2sc into next ch sp, working in front of ch-3 sp made on previous round, dc3tog into ch-2 sp made on Round 8 (Sunflower), 2sc into same ch sp, 4sc into next ch sp, 5sc into next ch sp; repeat from * to end, omitting 5sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, do not fasten off (108sts)

Round 11: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into next st, * 3dc into next st, 1dc into each next 17sts; repeat from * to end, omitting 2dc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (120sts)

Sew in yarn endsPlace stitch marker into corner sts (central st of 3dc) if required


Joining your piecesYou can join one side of this motif as you make it, if you want to do this, do not fasten off at the end of the last round

Using size G/6 (4mm) hook & using the layout diagram as your reference, ch1, holding the correct block in front, with RS facing inwards, 1sc into central sc of 3sc group made at corner of block & the corresponding st on the other block so that your hook is through 2 sts, 1sc into the sts, work 1sc into all corresponding pairs of sts on both pieces all the way along to the central scs at next corners, working the final sc into the central sts, at corner, fasten off



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To join the other side of the motifUsing Black or Plum size G/6 (4mm) hook & using the layout diagram as your reference, & holding the correct block in front, with RS facing inwards, join yarn into pair of corresponding corner sts on both blocks by working ch1, work 1sc into all corresponding pairs of sts on both pieces all the way along to the central scs at next corners, working the final sc into the central sts, at corner, fasten off



Rosa

US Terms

1

Block 4 – RosaOne of Frida’s very first paintings is entitled ‘Still Life Roses’ and she painted it in 1925.

Frida often wore roses in her hair or tucked one behind her ear, so I wanted to have a few rose themes coming through the design of the blanket. This piece is a combination of a small flower

(which uses the popcorn stitches used in Block 2 again) and the construction of the Bird of Paradise blocks that you made last time.

I really love some of the colour combinations in this piece. I like the toffee shade alongside the bright Greek Blue and love the way the shades sit on the dark background. Colour combinations

are always such a surprise to me (even though it means I rip work back ALL the time). I love seeing how different shades react with each other. Bright blue and green shades

along with the pinks and reds of traditional flower patterns on black backgrounds are a very common design theme in Mexican textiles and there are numerous images of Frida wearing

dresses which included traditional embroidery.


Block 4 – Rosa (make 4) – Yarns used:



ABBREVIATIONSch(s) chain(s)cm centimeter(s)dc double crochetdc3tog work 3 double crochet sts together (2 sts decreased)hdc half double crochetRS right side

sc single crochetsp(s) space(s)ss slip stitch st(s) stitch(es)tch turning chainWS wrong side





3567Plum

3672Poppy

3665 Ivory

3656Toffee

3674Shrimp

3093Black

3662Sunflower


3095Greek Blue

3669Nocturne

1

1

1

11

11

1

7

7

7

7

7

4 4

4 4

3

8

8 8

8

3

3 3

6

6

6

6

6

6

5 5

5 5

2 2

2 2

22

22

2




Block 4 – Rosa (make 4)

3




Round 2: Using Poppy join yarn into any ch-3 sp by working ch1 (does not count as a st), 5sc into same ch sp, 5sc into each ch sp to end, ss to join, (30sts)

Round 3: Ch1 (does not count as a st) skip st at base of ch-1, * 1hdc into next st, 2dc into each next 2sts, 1hdc into next st, 1sc into next st; repeat from * to end, ss to join, fasten off (42sts)

Round 4: Using Shrimp join yarn into base of any 1sc made between any 2 petals on previous round by working ch1 (counts as 1 spike sc) this st covers up the post of the sc—be careful not to over pull this stitch as it could come loose, * skip next hdc, 2sc into next st, [1sc into next st, 2sc into next st] twice, spike sc into base of next sc made between next 2 petals made on previous round; repeat from * to end, omitting last spike sc on final pattern repeat, ss to center of spike st at beginning of round join, fasten off (54sts)

Measurement: 3¼in (8.5cm) across center—widest point of petal to petal

Round 5: Using Greek Blue and working at the reverse side of the flower (but with RS facing) join yarn around the reverse side of the spiked sc made on Round 4 (Shrimp) by working ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc into same st, * ch6, 1sc into reverse side of next spiked sc as before; repeat from * to end, omitting last 1sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, (6 ch sps made)

Round 6: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 6dc into same st, ch1, 1sc into next ch sp, ch1, * 7dc into next sc, ch1, 1sc into next ch sp, ch1; repeat from * to end, ss to join, fasten off


1

1

2

2

4

Round 7: Using Nocturne join yarn into top of 1st dc of any 7dc group made on previous round by working ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc into same st, * 1sc into next st, [ch1, 1sc into next st] 4 times, 1sc into next st, ch3, 1sc into top of next dc; repeat from * to end, omitting last sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off

Measurement: 4¼in (10.5cm) across center— widest point of petal to petal

Round 8: Using Toffee join yarn into any ch-3 sp made on previous round by working ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc into same ch sp, * ch2, skip 2sc, 1sc into next ch sp, [ch1, 1sc into next ch sp] 3 times, ch2, 1sc into next ch sp; repeat from * to end, omitting last sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off

Round 9: Using Black and working at the reverse side of the flower (but with RS facing) join yarn through back of central sc of group made on flower on Round 7 (Nocturne) by working ch1 (counts as 1sc), * ch5, working to the front of the 2 previous rounds dc3tog into top of sc made between petals on Round 6 (Greek Blue) ch5, 1sc into back of central sc of next group made on Round 7 (Nocturne); repeat from * to end, omitting last 1sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off

Round 10: Using Sunflower, join yarn into ch sp made on round 8 (Toffee) to the left of any dc3tog made on previous round by working ch1 (does not count as a st), 2sc into same ch sp, * [ch1, 2sc into next ch sp] 4 times, ch2, skip dc3tog, 2sc into next ch sp; repeat from * 4 times, [ch1, 2sc into next ch sp] 4 times, ch2, ss to join, fasten off

Round 11: Using Ivory join yarn into first ch-1 sp of 4 x ch-1 sps (between 2 sets of 2sc) made on previous round by working ch1 + ch2, dc2tog into same ch sp (counts as dc3tog), * [ch3, dc3tog into next ch sp] 3 times, ch3, skip 2sc & 2ch & 2sc, dc3tog into next ch sp; repeat from * to end, omitting dc3tog on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off

Round 12: Using Black join yarn into central ch sp of 4 petal group made on previous round by working ch1 (does not count as a st), 5sc into same ch sp, * 4sc into next ch sp, 2sc into next ch sp, working in front of ch-3 sp made on previous round, dc3tog into ch-2 sp made on Round 10 (Sunflower), 2sc into same ch sp, 4sc into next ch sp, 5sc into next ch sp; repeat from * to end, omitting 5sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, do not fasten off (108sts)


1

1

2

2

5

Round 13: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into next st, * 3dc into next st, 1dc into each next 17sts; repeat from * to end, omitting 2dc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (120sts)

Sew in yarn endsPlace stitch marker into corner sts (central st of 3dc) if required





To join the other side of the motifUsing Black & size G/6 (4mm) hook & using the layout diagram as your reference, & holding the correct block in front, with RS facing inwards, join yarn into pair of corresponding corner sts on both blocks by working ch1, work 1sc into all corresponding pairs of sts on both pieces all the way along to the central scs at next corners, working the final sc into the central sts, at corner, fasten off



Heart Rose

US Terms

1

Block 5 – Heart RoseIn 1939 Frida Kahlo painted a canvas that she named ‘The Two Fridas’. Frida painted it after her divorce

from Diego and it shows one version of herself wearing an exposed heart, the other version of herself with a strong heart. The painting represents suffering versus strength and resilience.

When I first started working on the design for this blanket, and was therefore looking at traditional Mexican fabrics and iconography, I came across designs which featured the heart shape. The sacred heart motif is one of the most common motifs in religious Mexican folk art and, within the Catholic

religion, it represents the physical heart of Jesus as a symbol of his divine love for humanity.

Trying to incorporate a heart shape into the design presented me with a problem in that the shape of it would mean the blanket design would have a definite top and lower edge in order for the heart shape to sit in the right position. I played with heart shapes a lot, but in the end I decided it simply didn’t

fit within the design. However, I realised that the shape would work perfectly as a flower petal and set about designing this piece ‘Heart Rose’.

This is one of my favourite pieces within the design and once again it starts with those fabulous popcorn stitches made at the centre of Block 2.

The next block will be available 14 June.

Block 5 – Heart Rose (make 4)Yarns used:



ABBREVIATIONSch(s) chain(s)cm centimeter(s)dc double crochetdc3tog work 3 double crochet sts together (2 sts decreased)hdc half double crochetin inch(es)RS right side

sc single crochetsp(s) space(s)ss slip stitch st(s) stitch(es)tch turning chaintr trebleWS wrong side




Pattern Note MP: Make PopcornMake 5dc, remove hook from last loop. Making sure that the stitch does not unravel, insert hook into top of 1st double crochet of 5dc group from the front.Place the yarn loop from the top of the 5th dc back onto the hook so that there are 2 “sts” on the hook. Wrap yarn round hook and draw through to form a popcorn.

3567Plum

3672Poppy

3674Shrimp

3662Sunflower


3566Teal

3665 Ivory

3093Black

3097Leaf

3658Mauve

1

1

1

11

11

1

7

7

7

7

7

4 4

4 4

3

8

8 8

8

3

3 3

6

6

6

6

6

6

5 5

5 5

2 2

2 2

22

22

2




Block 5 – Heart Rose (make 4)

3




Round 2: Using Poppy join yarn into any ch-3 sp by working ch1 + ch2 (counts as 1dc), 5dc into same ch sp, 6dc into each ch sp to end, ss to join, fasten off (36sts)

Round 3: Using Shrimp join yarn into top of 2nd dc of any 6dc group made on previous round by working ch1 + ch1 (counts as 1hdc), * 2dc into each next 3sts, 1hdc into next st, ch1, skip next st, 1hdc into next st; repeat from * to end, omitting 1hdc on final pattern repeat, ss to 2nd ch of ch-2 at beginning of round to join, fasten off (48sts)

Round 4: Using Poppy join yarn into st sp between any 2 groups of 6dc made on Round 2 (also worked using Poppy) by working ch1 (counts as 1 spike sc - be careful not to over pull this stitch as it could come loose), * skip ch made on previous round (this is now covered by the spike sc) & skip st at top of next hdc, 1sc & 1hdc into next st, 3dc into next st, 1hdc into next st, ss into next st, 1hdc into next st, 3dc into next st, 1hdc & 1sc into next st, spike sc into st sp made between next 2 groups of 6dc made on Round 2; repeat from * to end, omitting last spike

sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (84sts)

Measurement: 4-4¼in (10-10.5cm) across center—widest point of petal to petal

Round 5: Using Teal and working at the reverse side of the flower (but with RS facing) join yarn around the reverse side of the spiked sc made on Round 4 (Poppy) by working ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc into same st, * ch4, 1tr into sc at base of ch-4, ch4, ss into same sc, ch7, 1sc into reverse side of next spiked sc as before; repeat from * to end, omitting last 1sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (base for 6 leaves complete)


1

3

2

4

1

3

5

2

4

4

Round 6: Using Leaf join yarn into 4th ch of any ch-7 made on previous round by working ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc into same ch, * ch1, 1dc into next ch sp (between ch-4 & tr), ch1, [1dc, ch1 into same ch sp] 3 times, 1dc into same ch sp, ch3, ss into st at base of ch-3 to make picot, [1dc, ch1 into next ch sp] 5 times, skip 3ch of ch-7 made on previous round, 1sc into next ch; repeat from * to end, omitting last sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (6 leaves complete)

Round 7: Using Sunflower join yarn into top of any sc made between leaves on previous round by working ch1 + ch2 (counts as 1dc), 4dc into same st, * ch7 behind leaf, 5dc into next sc; repeat from * to end, omitting last 5dc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (30dc & 6 x ch-7 sps)

Round 8: Using Mauve join yarn into 4th ch of any ch-7 made on previous round by working ch1 (does not counts as a st), 1sc into same ch, * ch3, skip next dc, 1hdc into next st, 2hdc into each next 2sts, 1hdc into next st, ch3, skip 3ch of ch-7 made on previous round, 1sc into next ch; repeat from * omitting last sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (36 hdc & 12 x ch-3 sps)

Note: The last round may cause your crochet to form a slight cup shape—this should settle down on the next round, but it is worth keeping your eye on it. If your crochet does not settle down by the end of Round 9, try making your chain stitches a little looser on Round 8 & 9.

Round 9: Using Ivory join yarn into any sc made on previous round by working ch1 (does not counts as a st), 1sc into same st, * ch3, skip next 2hdc (note that for hdc, the top of the stitch lies to the right of the post and can look like a chain stitch), [dc3tog into next st, ch3] 3 times, skip 1hdc & 3ch, 1sc into next ch; repeat from * omitting last sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off

Round 10: Using Black join yarn into ch sp before any central dc3tog group made on previous round by working ch1 + ch2 (counts as a 1dc), * 5dc into next ch sp, [4dc into next ch sp] twice, 5dc into next ch sp; repeat from * to end, omitting 1dc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, do not fasten off (108sts)

Round 11: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 3sc into next st, * 1sc into each next 8sts, 1hdc into center of picot made at top of leaf made on Round 6, skip next st made on previous round, 1sc into each next 8sts, 3sc into next st; repeat from * to end, omitting 3sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (120sts)



1

1

1

1

2

2

2

2

1

3

2

5





To join the other sides of the motifUsing Black & size G/6 (4mm) hook & using the layout diagram as your reference, & holding the correct block in front, with RS facing inwards, join yarn into pair of corresponding corner sts on both blocks by working ch1, work 1sc into all corresponding pairs of sts on both pieces all the way along to the central scs at next corners, working the final sc into the central sts, at corner, continue in this way for further seams if required, fasten off



Ring of Roses

US Terms

1

Block 6 – Ring of RosesThis block is the first motif I designed for this project and was the first piece that I presented to

Stylecraft as an illustration of my design. Thankfully they liked the idea, so I then used this motif as the template for all the others.

There is a very famous photographic image of Frida Kahlo with roses in her hair, sat against a dark green flowery background and it is this image that I used as the inspiration for this motif.

I really like the 3D aspect of crochet and really like designing projects that have an aspect of relief motifs and textural stitches. I designed 3D flowers in the Lily Pond CAL design from last year and wanted to do this again. Working a framework behind the flower can be a little tricky, but I took a few images to help you along the way. The French knots are sewn onto this design to give it an extra bit of detail and

you will find step-by-step images of how to make the sewn stitches within the pattern.

The next block will be available 28 June.

Block 6 – Ring of Roses (make 6)Yarns used:

EQUIPMENTSize G/6 (4mm) hook used throughoutStitch markersSewing needleLarge eye needle for bullion stitches

MEASUREMENTPre blocked – 8in (20cm) wide at widest point

ABBREVIATIONSch(s) chain(s)cm centimeter(s)dc double crochetdc3tog work 3 double crochet sts together (2 sts decreased)hdc half double crochetin inch(es)RS right sidesc single crochet

sp(s) space(s)ss slip stitch st(s) stitch(es)tch turning chaintr trebleWS wrong side


Dealing with yarn ends I tend to sew yarn ends in as I go along—doing this makes the finishing process much easier as you will have less to do. Sewing yarn ends in as you go along also means that you are less likely to lose stitches or make errors with your tension.



3567Plum

3672Poppy

3674Shrimp

3662Sunflower

3566Teal

3665 Ivory

3093Black

3097Leaf

1

1

1

11

11

1

7

7

7

7

7

4 4

4 4

3

8

8 8

8

3

3 3

6

6

6

6

6

6

5 5

5 5

2 2

2 2

22

22

2




Block 6 – Ring of Roses (make 6)

3

METHODUsing Plum & size G/6 (4mm) hook ch5, join with a ss to form a ring


Round 1: Using Poppy, join yarn into any st by working ch1 + ch2 (counts as 1dc), 1dc into same st, 2dc into each st to end, ss to join, fasten off (24sts)

Round 2: Using Shrimp join yarn into any st by working ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc into st at base of ch-1, * 2sc into next st, 1sc into next st; repeat from * to end, last st, 2sc into next st. ss to join, fasten off (36sts)

Round 3: Using Plum join yarn into top of 1st sc of any 2sc group made on previous round by working ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc into st at base of ch-1, * 1hdc into next st, [2dc into next st] twice, 1hdc into next st, 1sc into each next 2sts; repeat from * to end, omitting 1sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (48sts)

Round 4: Using Poppy join yarn into top of 2nd sc of any 2sc made on previous round by working ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc into st at base of ch-1, * 1hdc into next st, 2dc into next st, 1dc into each next 2sts, 2dc into next st, 1hdc into next st, 1sc into each next 2sts; repeat from * to end, omitting last sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (60sts)

Place markers into sts on Round 2 in line with the space between each petal as in the image—counting 5sts between each marker

Round 5: Using Shrimp join yarn into top of hdc made before any 2sc made on previous round by working ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc into st at base of ch-1, * working at the front of the flower, 1dc around the post of the next marked st made on Round 2, skip 2sc, 1sc into top of next hdc, 2sc into each next 6sts, 1sc into next st; repeat from * to end; omitting last sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (90sts)

Measurement: 4¾in (12cm) across center—petal to petal


1 2

4

Bullion StitchesSew the decorative bullion sts in place at this point as follows:Using Sunflower and a large eye sewing needle, sew 12 bullion stitches in place using the st sps between the single crochet sts made on Round 2 as your guide for placement.

To make a bullion st, wrap the yarn around the needle 4 times before inserting the needle into the st sp, bring the needle out to the front of the work through the next st sp, gently pulling the needle through the wrapped yarn loops to form the bullion.

Round 6: Using Teal and working at the reverse side of the flower (but with RS facing) join yarn around the post between 2sc made between any 2 petals on Round 4 (Poppy) and skipped on Round 5, by working ch1 (counts as 1sc), * ch7, working along ch just made work as follows: skip 1ch, 1sc into next ch, 1hdc into next ch, 1dc into each next 2ch, 1tr into each next 2ch, ch5, working at the reverse side of the flower as before, 1sc around post between next 2 skipped scs; repeat from * to end, omitting last 1sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (6 leaves half complete)

Round 7: Using Leaf join yarn into ch made at tip of any leaf made on previous round by working ch1 (does not count as a st), 3sc into st at base of ch-1, * 1sc into each next 6sts, 1sc into next ch, ch3, 1sc into next ch, skip 3ch & 1sc, working into remaining side of ch, 1tr into each next 2ch, 1dc into each next 2ch, 1hdc into next ch, 1sc into next ch, 3sc into next ch made at tip of leaf; repeat from * to end, omitting last 3sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (6 leaves complete)


1 2

3

5

4

1

1

3

3

2

2

4

4

5

Round 8: Using Sunflower join yarn into any ch-3 sp made on previous round by working ch1 + ch2 (counts as 1dc), 4dc into same ch sp, * ch7 behind leaf, 5dc into next ch-3 sp; repeat from * to end, omitting last 5dc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (30dc & 6 x ch-7 sps)

Note: The last round may cause your crochet to form a slight cup shape—this should settle down on the next round, but it is worth keeping your eye on it. If your crochet does not settle down by the end of Round 10, try making your chain stitches a little looser on Round 8 & 9.

Round 9: Using Ivory join yarn into 4th ch of any ch-7 made on previous round by working ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc into same ch, * ch3, skip next dc, [dc3tog into next st, ch3] 3 times, skip 1dc & 3ch, 1sc into next ch; repeat from * omitting last sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off

Round 10: Using Black join yarn into ch sp before any central dc3tog group made on previous round by working ch1 + ch2 (counts as 1dc), * 5dc into next ch sp, [4dc into next ch sp] twice, 5dc into next ch sp; repeat from * to end, omitting 1dc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, do not fasten off (108sts)

Round 11: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 3sc into next st, * 1sc into each next 8sts, 1sc into central sc of 3sc group at top of leaf made on Round 7, skip next st made on previous round, 1sc into each next 8sts, 3sc into next st; repeat from * to end, omitting 3sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (120sts)




1 1

1

3 3

3

2 2

2

6

Joining your piecesYou can join the sides of this motif as you make it, if you want to do this, do not fasten off at the end of the last round

Using size G/6 (4mm) hook & using the layout diagram as your reference, ch1, holding the correct block in front, with RS facing inwards, 1sc into central sc of 3sc group made at corner of block & the corresponding st on the other block so that your hook is through 2 sts, 1sc into the sts, work 1sc into all corresponding pairs of sts on both pieces all the way along to the central scs at next corners, working the final sc into the central sts, at corner, continue in this way for further seams as required, fasten off





Frida’s Bouquet

US Terms

1

Block 7 – Frida’s BouquetFrida married Diego Rivera in 1929 when she was 22, much to the disappointment of Frida’s parents who referred to the couple as ‘the elephant and the dove’. The couple divorced 10 years later, only to remarry in 1940. Despite the tempestuous and volatile nature of their relationship it is clear that they

were inseparable and Diego was devastated by her death in 1954.

I based the design of this piece on one of Frida’s many self-portraits ‘Diego on My Mind’ which she painted in 1943. In the painting Frida shows herself in a white traditional Tehuana dress with an image of Diego on her forehead. What looks like bougainvillea flowers and white daisies are arranged in her

hair. The painting portrays Frida’s constant thought stream involving Diego and her profound sentiment and passion for him.

This motif sits at the centre of the blanket and at the centre point of both ends of the blanket. This was the second motif that I designed for the blanket and it took me a while to get it right – getting

the complexity of the design of the motif to come out the same size as the other motifs was a bit of a challenge, but I got there in the end!

The edging instructions will be available 12 July.

Block 7 – Frida’s Bouquet (make 5)Yarns used:



ABBREVIATIONSch(s) chain(s)cm centimeter(s)dc double crochetdc2tog work 2 double crochet sts together (1 st decreased)dc3tog work 3 double crochet sts together (2 sts decreased)hdc half double crochetin inch(es)RS right sidesc single crochet

sp(s) space(s)ss slip stitch st(s) stitch(es)tch turning chaintr trebletr3tog work 3 treble sts together (2 sts decreased)WS wrong side


Dealing with yarn ends I tend to sew yarn ends in as I go along—doing this makes the finishing process much easier as you will have less to do. Sewing yarn ends in as you go along also means that you are less likely to lose stitches or make errors with your tension.



3567Plum

3672Poppy

3674Shrimp

3662Sunflower

3095Greek Blue

(for embroidery)

3665 Ivory

3093Black

3097Leaf

3566Teal

1

1

1

11

11

1

7

7

7

7

7

4 4

4 4

3

8

8 8

8

3

3 3

6

6

6

6

6

6

5 5

5 5

2 2

2 2

22

22

2




Block 7 – Frida’s Bouquet (make 5)

3

METHODUsing Leaf & size G/6 (4mm) hook ch5, join with a ss to form a ring


Round 1: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc into next st, * ch2, skip next st, 1sc into next st; repeat from * to end, omitting last sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (6sts & 6 ch-2 sps)


Round 3: (RS facing) Using Teal & working from behind the flower you have just made, join yarn into any skipped sc made on Foundation Round by working ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc into st at base of ch-1, ch3, * 1sc into next skipped st, ch3; repeat from * to end, ss to join, (6sts & 6 ch-3 sps)

Round 4: Ch1 (does not count as a st), * 2sc into next ch sp, ch6, working along ch just made work as follows: skip 1ch, 1sc into next ch, 1hdc into next ch, 1dc into each next 2ch, 1hdc into next ch, 1sc into ch sp at base of ch; repeat from * to end, ss to join, fasten off (6 leaves half complete)

Round 5: Using Leaf, join yarn into 2nd sc of any 3sc made into any ch sp on previous round, ch1, 1sc into st at base of ch-1, 1sc into next st, * working into remaining side of ch, 1hdc into next ch, 1dc into each next 2ch, 1hdc into next ch, 1sc into next ch, 1sc into next ch at tip of leaf, ch5, 1sc into same ch, 1sc into each next 5sts, 1sc into each next 3sc; repeat from * to end, omitting 2sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (6 leaves complete)

Round 6: Using Plum join yarn into central sc of any 3sc group made on previous round by working ch1 + ch2 (counts as 1dc), 2dc into same st, ch5 behind leaf, *3dc into next central sc of 3sc group, ch5 behind leaf; repeat from * to end, ss to join, fasten off (18sts & 6 ch-5 sps)


1

1

1

3

2

2

2

4

Round 7: Using Poppy join yarn into 3rd ch of any ch-5 made on previous round by working ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc into ch at base of ch-1, * ch2, 1dc into next dc, 3dc into next st, 1dc into next st, ch2, skip 2ch, 1sc into next ch; repeat from * to end, omitting last sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off

Round 8: Using Shrimp, join yarn into any sc made into ch on previous round by working ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc into st at base of ch-1, * ch2, skip 2ch, [1sc into next st, ch1] 4 times, 1sc into next st, ch2, skip 2ch, 1sc into next sc; repeat from * to end, omitting last 1sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off

Measurement: 4¼-4½in (11-11.5cm) measuring across widest point of last round (not measuring to widest point of Round 5)

Round 9: Using Sunflower, join yarn into ch sp at tip of any leaf made on Round 5 by working ch1 + ch2 (counts as 1dc), 11dc into same ch sp, ch5, * 12dc into ch sp at tip of next leaf, ch5; repeat from * to end, ss to join, fasten off (72dc & 6 ch-5 sps)

Round 10: Using Ivory join yarn into top of 2nd dc of any 12dc group made on previous round by working ch1 + ch2, dc2tog into next 1st (counts as dc3tog), * [ch3, dc3tog over next 3sts] 3 times, ch4, skip 5ch & 1dc made on previous round, dc3tog over next 2sts by working 1 incomplete dc st into next st & 2 into the following st; repeat from * to end, omitting dc3tog on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off

Round 11: Using Black join yarn into central ch sp of 4 petal group made on previous round by working ch1 (does not count as a st), 5sc into same ch sp, * 4sc into next ch sp, 2sc into next ch sp, working in front of ch-5 made on Round 9 tr3tog into central sc of group made on Round 8 (Shrimp), 2sc into same ch sp, 4sc into next ch sp, 5sc into next ch sp; repeat from * to end, omitting 5sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, do not fasten off (108sts)

Round 12: Ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc into next st, * 3sc into next st, 1sc into each next 17sts; repeat from * to end, omitting 1sc on final pattern repeat, ss to join, fasten off (120sts)

Sew in yarn ends


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Using Greek Blue, sew 6 bullion sts at flower center using the image as a guide.See Ring of Roses (pattern 6) for guidance on sewing bullion sts.

Place stitch marker into corner sts (central st of 3sc) if required


Joining your piecesYou can join the sides of this motif as you make it, if you want to do this, do not fasten off at the end of the last round

Using size G/6 (4mm) hook & using the layout diagram as your reference, ch1, holding the correct block in front, with RS facing inwards, 1sc into central sc of 3sc group made at corner of block & the corresponding st on the other block so that your hook is through 2 sts, 1sc into the sts, work 1sc into all corresponding pairs of sts on both pieces all the way along to the central scs at next corners, working the final sc into the central sts, at corner, continue in this way for further seams as required, fasten off




Frida’s Edging

US Terms

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Block 8 – EdgingWhen I was designing this piece I wanted to try and make the making up and finishing process as quick and easy as possible. By joining as many of your blocks together as you can as you go along means that

you don’t have a massive making up job to do, but you do need to add the edging.

When I design my blankets I like the edgings to be straight rather than be dictated by the shape of the motif I have chosen to use. I suppose I think in the same way as a patchwork designer would when

laying out the pieces of a quilt. This tends to give me a bit of a challenge in terms of design as I often have to design small filling pieces to make sure things straighten out and I am not left with strange

shaped edgings. However, on this blanket I really liked the zigzag edge created by the hexagon shapes at the top and the bottom, so decided not to design fill in pieces.

With all the intricacies of the motifs I decided to keep the border simple and so opted for a relatively easy edging. I really like the fact that that it looks like rickrack braiding and think it would look as good

in any of the other left over shades.

Block 8 – EdgingYarns used:

EQUIPMENTSize G/6 & 7 (4mm & 4.5mm) hookSewing needle


ABBREVIATIONSch(s) chain(s)cm centimeter(s)RS right sidesc single crochetsc3tog work 3 single crochet sts together (2 sts decreased)

sp(s) space(s)ss slip stitch st(s) stitch(es)WS wrong side





3672Poppy

3674Shrimp

3093Black

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Block 8 – Edging

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METHODOnce all your pieces are complete and joined together you are ready to put the edging on. I have designed a simple edging as I didn’t want to detract from all the detail within the blanket and also had to think about left over yarn amounts.

Note: You will need to use a size G/6 (4mm) hook for the single crochet stitches and a size 7 (4.5mm) hook for the slip stitches.

Foundation round along the edge: With RS facing using Black & size 7 (4.5mm) hook, join yarn into last st made at top left blanket corner block by working ch1 (this is the final st made on the last row of a Half Dahlia Block with zig zag blanket edge to the right and does not count as a st)

Working along the straight edge: * using size 7 (4.5mm) hook, 16ss along side edge of half motif stopping at the flower, ch7, leaving ch at the back of the work skip flower, 16ss along remaining edge of same motif, ** skip join, using size G/6 (4mm) hook and corner stitches again 21sc along edge of next motif; repeat from * twice then work from * to **

Working along the zig zag edge: Using size G/6 (4mm) hook 3sc into next sc (this is the first st of the final row on the Half Dahlia Block), 1sc into each next 18sts (don’t worry if your stitch count is 1 out either way at this point), * sc3tog over next 3 sts by working 1 incomplete sc into the next st & the seam & the next st of the next block, 1sc into each next 18sts, 3sc into next st, 1sc into each next 18sts; repeat from * 3 times, sc3tog over next 3 sts by working 1 incomplete sc into the next st & the seam & the next st of the next block, 1sc into each next 18sts, 3sc into next st

You have completed the first edging round on half the blanket—repeat as set along remaining straight edge and zig zag edge once more so that all 4 edges have a base round of sts and you finish by working 3sc into same st as ch-1 made at beginning of round, ss to join, fasten off.

Note: When working along the zig zag edges on the next round you need to make 1sc into the st to the left of the sc3tog made on previous round and make 3sc into central st of 3sc made at tip of zig zag. You may find that in some cases you need to skip 1 or 2 sts to make the pattern work—this is to do with the sts you used. If I have written skip next st & you need to skip 2 that is fine and vice versa. I found I have to skip 2sts at the tip of the zig zag a couple of times

Round 1: On the next round you will start by working along the zig zag edge, followed by the straight edge

Working along the zig zag edge: With RS facing using Poppy & size G/6 (4mm) hook, join yarn into central st of 3sc made on previous round at corner by working ch1, 1sc into same st, * [ch1, skip next st, 1sc into next st] 9 times, ch1, skip 2 sts, 1sc into st to left side of sc3tog made on previous round, ch1, skip 2sts, 1sc into next st, [ch1, skip next st, 1sc into next st] 9 times (last sc should be in central st of 3sc made on previous round), 2sc into same st; repeat from * 4 times,

Working along the straight edge: Note: along the next edge treat slip stitches and chains made on previous round as you normally would, but when working into slip stitches work into one side of ss so that only half the stitch is used

* ch1, skip next st, 1sc into next st; repeat from * to end of straight edge, making sure last sc is in central st of 3sc made at corner on previous round, 2sc into same st

You have completed the edging round on half the blanket—repeat as set along remaining zig zag edge and straight edge once more so that all 4 edges have a base round of sts and you finish by working 2sc into same st as 1sc made at beginning of round, ss to join, fasten off.

Round 2: On the next round you will start by working along the zig zag edge, followed by the straight edge. Start the round at the opposite zig zag edge to where you have just fastened off


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Working along the zig zag edge: With RS facing using Shrimp & size G/6 (4mm) hook, join yarn into central st of 3sc made on previous round at corner by working ch1, 1sc into same st, * [ch1, skip next st, 1sc into next ch sp] 19 times, ch1, skip next st, 3sc into next st (this is the central st of 3sc group made on previous round); repeat from * 4 times

Working along the straight edge: * ch1, skip next st, 1sc into next ch sp; repeat from * to end of straight edge, making sure last sc is in central st of 3sc made at corner on previous round, 2sc into same st


Round 3: On the next round you will start by working along the zig zag edge, followed by the straight edge. Start the round at the opposite zig zag edge to where you have just fastened off

Working along the zig zag edge: With RS facing using Black & size G/6 (4mm) hook, join yarn into central st of 3sc made on previous round at corner by working ch1, 1sc into same st, * [ch1, skip next st, 1sc into next ch sp] 9 times (or down to ch sps at dip of zig zag), 1sc into each next 2 ch sps, [ch1, skip next st, 1sc into next ch sp] 9 times, ch1, skip next st, 3sc into next st (this is the central st of 3sc group made on previous round); repeat from * 4 times

Working along the straight edge: * ch1, skip next st, 1sc into next ch sp; repeat from * to end of straight edge, making sure last sc is in central st of 3sc made at corner on previous round, 2sc into same st


Sew in yarn endsBlock & Press


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Classique Cotton Special DK Life DK

Stylecraft yarns are available at all good yarn shops. For your nearest stockist telephone 01535 609798

3093Black

1002Black

2307Black

3567 Plum

1827 Fuchsia

Purple or 1061 Plum

2319Cranberry

3669 Nocturne

1708Petrol

2346Blue Haze

3665 Ivory

1005Cream

2305Cream

3672 Poppy

1246Lipstick

2411Crimson or 2344 Fuchsia

3674 Shrimp

1132Shrimp

2359Melon

3662 Sunflower

1081Saffron

2394Daffodil

3097 Leaf

1065Meadow

2311Fern

3566 Teal

1062Teal

2302Olive

3095 Greek Blue

1068Turquoise

2357Aqua

3658 Mauve

1084Magenta

2309Heather

3656 Toffee

1029Copper

2312Copper

Shade Shade Shade50g balls 100g balls 100g balls

7 balls 3 balls 3 balls



3 balls 1 ball 1 ball





1 ball 1 ball 1 ball




Hello and welcome to the Frida’s Flowers Crochet along, designed by Jane Crowfoot.This is the shade list for all the shades and quantities required to complete the project.

While the patterns are written using Classique Cotton DK, we have supplied a list of alternative shades and quantities in Special DK and Life DK.

As you will see, there two colour options noted in the Special and Life ranges. Special DK - There are two colour options for the alternative to plum. Please choose either plum of fuchsia purple.

Life DK - There are two colour options for the alternative to poppy. Please choose either crimson or fuchsia.

Documents

Welcome to the start of the Stylecraft Frida’s Flowers ... · Welcome to the start of the Stylecraft Frida’s Flowers Blanket Crochet Along designed by ... see our Crochet Along