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*

CONTENTS

Page

Glossary of Sewing Terms 1A

Glossary of Sewing Machine Features 18

Machine Identification 2

Accessories 3

Detaching Extension Table 4

Connecting Foot Control 5

Changing Presser Foot 6

Changing Needle 7

Bobbin Winding 8, 9, 10

Inserting Bobbin 11

Adju sting Lower Tension 12

Upper Threading 13

Drawing Up Lower Thread 14

Adjusting Pressure on Fabric 15

Adjusting Upper & Lower Tensions 16

Fabric, Needle & Thread Table 17

Setting the Stitch Length 18

Presser Foot Lifter 19

Cloth Guide 20

Basting 21

Staystitching 21

Zigzag Stitching 22

Edge Finishing 23Interfacing Darts 23

Bartack 23

Shell Stitch Edging 23

Satin Stitch 23

Stretch Stitching 24

Rick Rack Stretch Stitch 25Topstitching 26

Seaming Knits 27Gathering Over Cord 27Lace Applications 27

Making Buttonholes 28, 29

Cutting Buttonholes 30

Corded Buttonholes 30Sewing on Buttons 31

Blind Hem Stitch 32

Zipper Sewing 33Mending/Patching 34

Mending a Rip 34

Darning 35

Lapped Seam Sewing 36Applique Work 37Embroidery 38Maintenance/Cleaning 39Oiling 40

Trouble Chart 41,42Changing Light Bulb 42

1. GLOSSARY OF SEWING TERMS

APPLIQUE Applying a material with a specific design

onto another material by using a straight

Or zg zag stitch.

BASTING To sew with a temporary stitch that can be

removed with ease. This i. possibl, by

using the longest straight stitch, setting

your top tension on “0” bnd sewing a

in, of stitches. The top stitch will be

loose and th, bottom ttltch tight; this

allows you to be able to remove the lower

thread by pullIng. It may be necessary

to cut the lower thread at different points

for easier removal.

BLIND HEM A variation of the zig zag stitch used to

finish a Item where you can control the

holding stitch.

BUTTONHOLE A means of strengthening the sides of a

hole in cloth by a zig zag stitch to hold

a button.

COUCHING To fasten down another material, like a

nbbon lace, with a fine zig zag stitch.

DARNING A method of repairIng a rip or tear by

stitching over the flew.

EMBROIDERY To decorate with stitching, using either a

straight or zig zag stitch.

FACING The addItion of another piece of material

to increase the body or edge of material.

GATHERING Forming a zig zag stitch over cord, elastic,

or any separate material.

Another term for shining.

A fold, sewn down en edge of cloth.

Using a straight stitch for tracery or zig zag

stitching to form a design.

The use of a zig zag sthrji to finish a seam

or edge of cloth, or to prevent the revelling

of a loos, weave cloth.

A triple stretch pattern used to finish seams

or stretch buttonholes.

Same as darning but covering the hole

with a piece of cloth.

QUILTING Joining several cloths together to form a

bulk cover for beds, furniture or clothing.

RICK RACK A triple stretch pattern using a basic zig zag

to give a RiCk RACK effect.

SATIN STITCH A solid line of zig zag stitching formed by

zig zag stitch sewn very close tcgetlter,

SEAM A line formed when sewing two peces of

material together.

SHELL TUCK The use of the zig zag or variation of

the zig zag stitch to give a shell effect

to the edge of material.

SlURRING To gather cloth by drawing two or more

thread* together.

STRAIGHT A forward Or reverse single line of sewing

STITCH which tidy vary from 6 to 8 stitches

per inch to ‘0’ stitches.

STRETCH A combination of stitches formed by a

STITCH forward and bedtward motion which atows

the stitches to flex and not break, used

on stretch materials, double knits, tricot.

lingerie, arc.

TACKING A series of stitches to lock thread.

TAPERING A tn. of zig zag sewing varying from

narrow toe wide range.

THREAD SHANK A space composed of thread between the

button and cloth to engage button to

buttonhole on bulky material.

TOPSTITCHING A line or series of lines of straight or zig

zag sewing which enhances a bonder givingthe stitching a raised affect.

A term used for stretch patterns, a pattern

formed by a forward, sideward and back

ward combination of stitches.

ZIG ZAG A term which describes the side to side

motion of lire needle which creates width

to straight sewing.

HEM

MONO.GRAMMING

OVERCASTING

OVERLOCKISTRETCHI

PATCHING

TRIPLESTRETCH

—1A—

2. GLOSSARY OF SEWING MACHINE FEATURES

ACCESSORY For storage of estra feet, neadles, bobbins

BOXJTRAY and acceseorlee. Also used 55 estensron

of arm for a larger work strrface.

LOWER TEN. Balances upper and tower tension threads.

SION SPRING

BOBBIN To adust the tension of bobbin case.

TENSION SCREW

BOBBIN For winding bobbin with thread.

WIND#iG SPINDLE

BOBBIN For automatically stopping bobbin at full

WINDING STOP capacity.

FACE COVER opan for changing the bulb provklea

easy accela to needle, and presser bar

asa.cnbly for oIling.

FEED DOG For feeding materiel through machine.

FOOT For activating power to the machine,

CONTROL amount of preeaur. exerted on the foot

pedal corrtrola th, speed: attached wirea

plug into machine end well socket.

HANDWH EEL For tumnetg mechanism by hand to bring

needle and take up to high poertion. This

wheel turns toward operator.

NEEDLES Used to form a todr stitch on your machine.

variations are many; example: sharp, ball,

leather, etc.

For attaching the needle to in, lower

end of the needle bar.

For fastening needle into needle clamp.

For supporting material whan sewing. This

plate is merited for several hem sizes.

A receptacle to protect a sawing machine

whar not In use,

Controls the pressure exerted on various

materials being sewn. Can be varied by

control lever.

When towered onto material it holds the

mteml& against the feed dog.

For raising or towering the presser bar

and presser foot. When raised, the tension

is released and when lowered, the tension

is engaged.

PRESSER FOOT For tastenirtg presser foot end attachments

THUMB SCREW to tire presser bar.

REVERSE For changing from forward to reverseSEWING BUTTON direction, button must be held in for

continued reverse sewing.

SOCKET Located under the face cover to changethe light bulb.

SPOOL PIN On. for sewing and for winding bobbin.

IRETRACTABLE)

For changing the length of stitch in eitherforward and reverse direction,

For drawing up the top thread to forma tight stitch.

For cutting excess thread, located on theback and into the presser bar.

Holds thread taut for even winding.

Guides thread from spool pins to’ the

tension.

STITCHLENGTH DIAL

TAKE UPLEVER

THREADCUTTER

THREAD GUIDEFORBOBBIN WINDING

THREAD GUIDEFOR UPPERTHREADING

UPPER THREADTENSION

UPPER THREADTENSION DIAL

ZiGZAGWIDTH DIAL

Use for single or two thread sewing, helps

control thread lock.

Used to change upper tension

For setting width of zigzag stitching. Zigzagwidth may be varied from 0 width to 5mm

width.

NEEDLE CLAMP

NEEDLE CLAMPTHUMB SCREW

NEEDLE PLATE

PORTABLECOVER

PRESSER BAR

PRESSER FOOT

PRESSER FOOT

UFTER

— 1 B—

Machine identification

1. Spool pin2. Bobbin winder3. Bobbin winder stop4. Stop motion knob

5. Hand wheel6. Stitch lengtl knob7. Reverse stitch button

8. Connector9. Stitch pattern knob

10. Base plate11. Thread guide12. Thread take-up13. Thread guide14. Top tension15. Bed cover16. Extension plate guide

17. Handle18. Faceplate19. Set screw for face plate20. Presser foot lifter21. Needle plate22. Feed dogs23. Needle clamp24 Needle25. Presser foot holder screw26. Presser foot27. Extension plate28. Top plate.

28 171

—

12‘ .3

473

1

614

7

9

15/6 10

18

20

yq

23242725

-2622

27

—2—

ACCESSORIES

Zigzag foot(on machine)

uttonoie foot

Button sewingfoot

Zipper foot

Bobbins(3 pcs.)

Ordinary needles 14

Oiler

Screw drivers

Accessories are stored in built-in

compartment at front of exten

sion table

—3—

BEFORE SEWING

\cLJ

Machine is stored in flat-bed style

which makes your work ea&er in

ordinary sewing.

Detaching Extension Table

Pick up and slide it off and the

machine is used as a free-arm

model.

Free-arm is convenient to sew or

embroider; trousers, sleeves, cuffs

of T-shirts, blouses, etc.

Do vice-versa of above steps to

attach extension table.

To open lid of accessory box, lift

it open, as illustrated.

—4--

Connecting Foot Controllerand Power Cord

Connect foot controller andpower cord CD

Before plugging in your machine,be sure that voltage is same asthat of your machine. (written ona plate at back of machine)

* Specifications vary from countryto country.

Always unplug machine whennot in use.

The more you press foot controller,the faster the machine runs.

WARNING:THE FOOT CONTROLLER, FOR WHICHATTACHED ON THE SEWINGMACHINE MODEL 221N, ISDESIGNATED FOR SEWING MACHINEMODEL 221N ONLY.FOR YOUR SAFETY, DO NOT APPLYTHIS FOOT CONTROLLER TO ANYSEWING MACHINE AND/ORAPPLIANCE OTHER THAN MODEL221N.

POLARIZED PLUGS CAUTION

This product is equipped with a polarized alternating current line plug(a plug having one blade wider than the other). This plug will fit intothe power outlet only one way. This is a safety feature. If you areunable to insert the plug fully into the outlet, try reversing the plug.If the plug should still fall to fit, contact an electrIcian to replace theobsolete outlet. Do not defeat the safety purpose of the polarizedplug.

Changing Foot

9

Raise presser foot ‘ifter D.

Set needle in the highest

position by turning handwheel

towards you .

Remove foot by loosening screw

with screwdriver.

Replace new foot and tighten

screw.

—6—

Changing Needle

Set needle in the highestposition by turning handwheeltowards you.

Loosen needle clamp screw andtake out needle.

With fiat face away from you,insert a new needle into grooveof needle bar.

Push needle until it reachesstopper ® and tighten needleclamp screw firmly.

Always use a straight needle witha sharp point.

Using defective or worn needlesnot only causes stitch skipping,breakage of needles or snappingof thread; it also can damagehook and needle plate.

straight shaft

__

l,rrIrrrf721r?Jf1 LJ

Proper needle

sharp point

I If f 11 I I I I IJ

—7—

Bobbin Winding -

Set needleposition bytowards you.

Open latchtake it out.

in the highestturning handwheel

of bobbin case and

Close latch of bobbin case andbobbin comes out easily.

Open shuttle cover.

—8—

Push back to fold handle.

Pull out spoolpin.

Put a spool on spoolpin.

Draw thread from spoolpin

through pretension device, following

numbers D

Wind thread clockwise aroundbobbin several times.Push bobbin on to spindle.

Holding handwheel with your lefthand disengage haridwheel byunscrewing stop motion knob.

—9—

Push bobbin to rightand press

down foot controller.

P.achine stops autornaticlly

when winding is full.

Push bobbin to left.

Take off bobbin from spindle

and cut thread.

touble —=

correction fjt j4’

Retighten stop motion knob.

If bobbin is wound unevenly

as shown, remove top cover and

loosen set-screw of the guide for

bobbin winding, by using screw

driver and adjust height.

—10—

Inserting Bobbin

Guide thread intO slot ® of

bobbin case.

Pulling thread to left, bring it

under tension spring then tO

delivery eye

Place bobbin in its case with

thread running in direCtiOfl of

arrow.

—11—

Adjusting Lower TensionTo test bobbin tension, hang andshake bobbin case as shown.

At proper tension bobbin casewill gradually drop a smallamount.

To adjust tension, turn adjustingscrew with small screwdriver.

Raise needle in the highestposition.

Leave end of thread of about 10cm (4”) from bobbin case.Take hold of latch and pushbobbin case into hook.Release latch when bobbin caseis fully inserted

—12—

UPPER THREADING 1. Turn the hand wheel toward

you to raise the take-up lever

to its highest position.

2. Place a spool of thread on the

spool pin.

3. Lead the thread through the

top thread guides.

4. Down and between the tension

discs, from right to left.

5. Draw the thread up through the

check-spring and with a slight

tug into the hook.

6. Up and through the eye of take-

up level from right to left.

7. Lead thread down through the

thread guide at the bottom of

the threading slot, then, through

the needle bar thread guide from

the back.

8. Thread the needle FROM

FRONT TO BACK, drawing it

through about 3 or 4 inches.

Hold the end of the upper

thread loosely and turn the

hand wheel toward you until

the needle goes all the way

down and comes back up. A

thread loop will form over the

upper thread which then can be

pulled out straight. Place both

thread ends under presser foot

and draw toward the back of

the machine, leaving both

threads three or four inches

long.

—13—

Drawing Up Lower Thread

Hold end of upper thread withleft hand.

Turn handwheel slowly towardsyou until needle moves down andup again.

Pull upper thread slowly andlower thread will be brought upin a loop.

Pull out both threads to about 1 5cm (6’) and place them togetherunder presser foot on left

—14—

ADJUSTING PRESSURE ON FABRIC

• GENERAL SEWING

Usually for normal sewing, except for sewing on

very heavy arid bulky fabrics arid very stretchy

knit fabrics of medium and very light weight, the

center pin (B) of the pressure control be at its

lower position. For exceotioria) fabrics, refer to

below table. To reduce half the pressure, press

the outer ring (A> of the pressure control, then

press the center pin (B) down again to halfway

short.

FabricPressure on

fabric

Ordinary fabric of less elasticity:

Heavy and bulky fabrics Half

Medium weight fabrics Full

Light weight soft fabrics Full

Very stretchy fabrics and knits:

Heavy and bulky ones Full

Medium weight ones Half

Light weight and sheer ones Half

—15—

CONTROLS:ADJUSTING THREAD TENSIONSSTRAIGHT STITCH: GREEN AREA

Always adjust the upper thread

tension with the presser foot down,

as the tension is released when it is

raised. To increase the tension on

the upper thread, turn tension

control to the right. To decrease,

turn to the left. Before adjusting

the tension be sure that the

machine is threaded properly.

It is seldom required to adjustthe bobbin thread tension,however, when necessary to changebobbin thread tension, turn smallscrew on side of the bobbin caseclockwise to tighten, counterclockwise to loosen.

When both tensions are properlybalanced, a perfect stitch will beformed with both threads interlocking in fabric (A).When the upper tension is too tight,the bobbin thread is pulled up overthe upper thread which is lying flaton the fabric (B).When the upper tension is tooloose, the upper thread forms loopsover the bobbin thread lying flat onthe fabric (C).When the upper and bobbin threadtensions are balanced but fabric ispuckered in sewing direction onsheer fabrics, both tensions are tootight. Loosen both tensions evenly.

It is recommended to adjust thetension balance under mediumstitch length. In case of satinstitching for buttonholes and embroidery slightly loosen the upperthread tension.

ZIG ZAG TENSIONS:

tC)

Zig zag stitch requires less top tension so we recommend you turn your tension dial tored area for a smoother flat appearing pattern.

—16-—

Fabric ,Thread and Needle Table

THREAD NEEDLE

Cotton European U.SSize Point REMARKS

FABRIC European Mercerized Covered

Cotton CottonPolyester, 705 15x1 StyleSilk, Nylon

VERY SHEER; lace,Silk

Loosen up.

70 6D 65—70 9 Regular

Voile. Chiffon, NetNylon per tension

SHEER; Blouse Crepe, 50—70 60Silk 65—7O 9

Lawn. Organdy. Taffeta Nylon

LIGHT-WEIGHT; Crepe. 30 50 Silk 75—80 1 1 -

Wool. Brocade. Velvet

MEDIUM; Wool. Silk,

Linen. Velvatten. PIque, 30 50 Silk 80—90 11—14 -

Faille. Terrycloth

HEAVY; Denim, Duck. Heavy30 C.C.Poly. 100 16

SailclothDuty

EXTRA HEAVY; Heavy CC.Poly. 120 1930

Upholstery. Canvas. Duty

Awning

(KNITS)

Silk

LIGHT-WEIGHT; Tricot 50—70 80 70 9Light

Nylon Ball

Power net

MEDIUM-WEIGHT;Silk Light

Jersey, Double Knit, 30 50 Nylon 70—80 9—10 toMedium

Power NetC.C.Poly. Ball

HEAVY-WEIGHT; DoubleSilk Medium

30 50 Nylon 80—90 11—14 to Heavy

knit, Power Nat C.C PoIy. Ball

FAKE-FURS, VELOURS 30Heavy

Ball orCCPoiy. 90—100 14—16

DutySharp

[LEATHER

VINYLS FILMS 30 50 C.CPoly. 90 14 Wedge

LIGHT-TO-MEDIUM- 30 50 C.CPoly. 90—100 14—16 Wedge

WEIGHT

HEAVY LEATHER Heavy30 Duty

C.C.PoIy. 100—110 16—f B Wedge

[DECORATIVE TOUCHES]

TOP STITCHING Silk twist 100—110 16—18 Regular

MACHINE EMBROIDERY Size 50—70 65—80 9—11 Regular

—17--

STRAIGHT STITCH:

The normal stitch length for most fabricsis between 2-4 but the length chosenshould depend on the fabric artd area ofusage. Usually, heavier fabrics requirelonger stitches, and lighter weight fabricsrequire shorter stitches. For curved seamsand bias cut areas use a shorter stitchlength. Be sure to set the stitch widthcontrol at “o” line.

SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH

The length of the stitch is regulated by the stitch length control dial. Near 0is the shortest stitch and 5 is the longest, But the control may be set at any spotbetween marking for a variety of lengths. Turn the control dial to the right tolengthen and to the left to shorten the stitch.

STITCH LENGTH CHART (Approximate)

Figures on indicator 0 1 2 3 4 5

Approx. Number of stitches per inch No Feeding 30 15 10 7 6

SEWING IN REVERSEWhen you wish to sew backward to tie the threads at the beginning or end

of a seam, press in the push button as far as it will go. The machine will sewbackward as long as the button is held in.

—18-—

—19—

Place fabric under foot about 1

cm (0.4”) inside the edge.

Lower presser foot lifter.

Presser Foot Lifter

In order to obtain wider gap

when using very thick materials,

firmly push presser foot lifter up

as far as it will go.

To reinforce seam, sew back

wards to the edge of fabric by

pushing down reverse sewing

button.

Release button ‘and commence

forward sewing guiding fabric by

hand as it is fed.

Never pull material.

4’

Cloth Guide

Use cloth guide when sewing along seam of regular distancefrom edge of material.Set guide in hole on arm, at rightof needle plate, and adjustdistance.Run machine with edge of fabrictouching guide.Position cloth ‘guide at an angleto sew a curved seam.

Sew reverse stitches for reinforcement at end of seam.Draw fabric to left when sewingis finished.

Cut threads with thread cutter.behind presser bar.

-20—

B astingMachine basting is very useful for

joining seams for trial fittings, mark

ing construction guide lines, and

basting pleats and hems.

Use longest stitch possible, setting

stitch length at 5. Loosen tension on

upper thread. Choose thread color to

tcontrast with your fabric so it can be

easily seen.

Basting stitches can be removed

easily by clipping upper thread, then

pulling out lower thread.

Staystitching

Staystitching prevents stretching and

acts as a guideline for clipping and

joining curved edges. Staystitch any

edge that might stretch during handl

ing before the final stitching.

Staystitch on a single layer of fabric,

always stitching in the direction of

the grain. Place stitches 1/8” away

from seamline in the seam allowance.

Use 12 stitches per inch for most

fabrics.

1I

—21—

ZIG-ZAG STITCHING

MvvAWvW

%4%WMW

/W\’W\

—22—

Be sure to use zig-zag foot.You can make any number of combinations by adjusting stitch width andstitch length. Both knobs can beturned while machine is running.However, if machine is not running,raise needle to its highest positionbefore adjusting stitch width knob.Tension on upper thread usuallyneeds to be loosened. The wider thezig-zag, the looser the tension.Stitches should lie flat against thefabric without causing any puckering.Zig-zag stitching has many uses:

Seam FinishingUse to “overcast” seam edges infabrics that fray to prevent ravelingduring wear and washing. Press seamopen and stitch each side separately.Adjust stitch width and length to suitfabric. Choose setting that will givethe most open stitch and still securethe fabric edges. Avoid harsh, over-stitched edges which become stiffand show a ridge on right side offabric.

Use one of two methods:• Trim seam edge evenly and place

stitching over raw edge of fabric- -

best for firmly woven fabrics.

• Place stitching near edge of seamallowance and trim away excessfabric after stitching . - best forfabrics which fray easily, lightweight fabrics, and knits whichroll.

1

Machine Setting

Edge FinishingUse to finish hem edges and facingedges to prevent raveling and to eliminate bulk of turned-in edges. Forfirm fabrics, stitch along edge of hemor facing. For loosely woven or softfabrics, stitch about W’ from edge,then ‘trim fabric close to stitching.

Interfacing DartsUse to reduce bulk when stitching adart in interfacing fabrics. Cut downcenter of dart to point; overlap cutedges matching dart lines. Zig-zagalong dart line from wide end of dartthrough point. Trim both raw edgesclose to stitching.

B artacksUse to reinforce points of strain suchas corners of pockets, belt loops,zipper openings, and lingerie straps.Set stitch width knàb at mediumzig-zag or wider and stitch length at5.

Use for a decorative edge treatmentfor lingerie and soft fabrics. Foldunder edge of fabric. Set stitchlength between 4 and 5. Tightenupper thread tension so stitches willpull in fabric, forming a scallopededge. Place edge of folded fabricunder presser foot from the right,so folded edge is on the left. Stitchalong folded edge.

Satin StitchClosely spaced zig-zag stitches whichform a smooth, satin-like surface arecalled satin stitches. Use for monograms, appliques and embroidery.Set stitch length knob between 0and 1. If too close to 0 machine willnot feed but.will continue sewingin one spot. Loosen tension of upperthread. The wider the stitch, thelooser the tension.

I

4.. 1sIieu Stitch Edging

1—23—

STRETCH STITCHING

When sewing knitted or stretch fabrics, use a stretch stitch which allows the

seam to stretch along with the fabric, without breaking the thread. Select

polyester or cotton covered polyester thread which has an extra amount of

give and is designed for knits and stretch fabrics. Use a ball point needle,

especially on lightweight knits.

In woven fabrics, use for stitching

seams that receive a lot of strain

when worn such as side seams, crotch

seams, and armholes in sportswear

and in children’s clothes.

Also use for topstitching when you

want a heavier row of stitching with

out using buttonhole twist thread.

Guide fabric gently, allowing

machine to make the back-and-forth

stitches that give stretch to the seam,

IRI

Machine Setting- IIIUI

STRETCH STRAIGHT STITCH

Stretch straight stitch is a triple lock

stitch. combining stretchability and

strength.

Use for stitching regular seams in

knits and stretch fabrics.

—24—

RICKRACK STRETCH STITCHMachine Setting

Foot Pattern Dial Stitch Length Tension

Rickrack stitch is a triple zig-zag thatresembles rickrack trim. It is reversible, looking the same on both theright and wrong sides.

It can be used as a heavy.duty allpurpose strtch stitch. Each zig-zagstitch consists of three threads orstitches, giving strength and perrhanence. Width of the zigzag can beadjusted from narrow to wide.

Use to overcast edges of seams, facingsand hems to prevent raveling and tokeep light weight knits from rolling.Also suitable for overcasting heavyfabrics such as woolens and terrycloth.

Use for attaching elastic. Mark elasticand garment waistline in fourths.Place elastic over fabric and pintogether at the markings. Take a fewstitches to anchor elastic to fabric,then stretch elastic between pins asyou sew.

Can also be used for decorative stitching.

I I I

4

—25—

DECORATIVE STITCHING

A great variety of decorative stitching can be created by using.ore or more

rows of a stitch pattern or by combining different stitches—top stitching,

decorative borders and trims, monograms, appliques and embroidery.

TOP STITCHING

You can accent lines of a garment

with one or more rows of topstitching

along collars, lapels, yokes, facing

edges, pockets, cuffs, seams and

hems.• Use straight stitch for a more

tailored look, sewing with button.

hole twist for added emphasis.

ii• Use stretch straight stitch for a

heavier row of stitching even with

regularthread

• Use satin stitch for wider row of

stitching, especially for borders.

Or use one of the stitches on follow.

ing page, varying the width for

special effects.

—26--

Seaming Knits

The narrow zigzag can be used

in seams of firm knits for

added strength. After sewing,

open seam and press flat.

Tinyzigzag stitches can hardly

be seen and the seam will give

when stretched.

G athering Over CordOrdinary gathering with abasting stitch often breaks

while pulling in fullness. Asmall zigzag across a cord such

as o-ochet thread or carpet

thread, gives a much strongercord for gathering fullness

into fabrics. Once the gathershave been stitched in place,the cord can be pulled out inorder to eliminate bulk.

Lace ApplicationsAttaching laces or trims adds aspecial touch to lingerie,

dresses, or linens. Pin or bastelaces in place easing or mitering

corners where necessary. Astraight edge lace or braid has aconvenient line to follow whensewing. When using a scallopededged lace follow the design ofthe lace for an almost invisible

application.

—27—

MAKING BUTTONHOLES

Determine Length

Determine Width

Determine width according to

diameter of button, its thickness,

and kind of material.

Attach buttonhole foot.

Completely push back sliding part

® of buttonhole foot.

Place material under foot so that

marking of buttonhole passes

through center of foot and arrow

® of foot indicates beginning line

of marking.

—28—

Measure diameter and thickness

of button and add 0.3cm (1/8”)

for bar tacks.

Mark buttonhole size on material.

marking

_____

3cm(i/8”J

1 diameterlength of abuttonhole

___________________I

thickness

I.

MAKING BUTTONHOLES

First, mark the beginning and end ofthe buttonhole on fabric with a bastingline or tailor’s chalk. Make one on scrapfabric (following directions below) to besure machine adjustments are correct

1. Replace presser foot with buttonholefoot which is grooved to preventpiling up of thread. Push slidingbuttonhole foot guide to the rear.

2. Set stitch width at 2 and stitchlength knob near 0.

3. Lower needle carefully into the markon fabric indicating the beginning ofbuttonhole. Stitch to the mark forthe end of the button hole, (Illustrationl),Stop machine with needle infabric at right side of stitching.

4. Lift the presser foot and using theneedle as a pivot, turn the fabricaround end for end.

5. Lower presser foot and turn handwheel just enough to raise needle outof fabric. Push sliding buttonholefoot guide to the rear. Take five orsix stitches to form bar tack (Illustration 2).

6. Turn stitch length dial to “0” position and set zigzag width to 5. Takefive or six stitches to form bar tack(Illustration 2).

7. Raise needle out of fabric, resetstitch width at 2 and return sttchlength near “0”.

6. Stitch second side of buttonhole,(Illustration 3)

9. Stitch bar tack by repeating step 6above (Illustration 4)

10. Cut the buttonhole opening with theseam ripper, being careful not to cutthe stitching.If you plan to make buttonholes onsheer or soft material, place a stabili.zer or paper, under fabric which canbe torn away after stitching.

igflS sf ft:

P p... p p Tj1 7 2—

—29—

Cutting Buttonholes

Stick a needle through bar tacks

to prevent over-cutting.

Cut buttonhole along centre with

buttonhole cutter.

Corded Buttonholes

For stretch fabrics such as knits,

a corded buttonhole is effective

to keep finished buttonhole

in shape.

Hook filler cord on top spur and

lead ends of cord under foot, pull

taut, and hook them to bottom

notches as shown.

Proceed with stitching as for

regular buttonholes.

When buttonhole is completed,

pull filler cord ends so that loop

on the other end disappears into

buttonhole stitching.

Thread ends of cord to reverse

side and tie, or cut both ends of

cord.

—30—

SEWING ON BUTTONSSet stitch length at “0”

Position a button and materialunder foot. When needle comesto left side of stitch, lower foot.Raise needle and adjust zigzagwidth so that needle comes toright hole of button.

Run machine at medium speedand sew 5-6 zigzag stitches.

Stop machine when needle is inupper position.® Set zigzag width control to 0and sew 3-4 stitches to preventunstitching.OR® Draw out work and cut offthreads.Draw thread ends through towrong side and tie a knot.

—31—

BLIND HEM STITCH STEP 1

The blind hem stitch provides a durable hem

finish that is almost invisible on garments,

drapes, and curtains. It is done easily with

straight or slightly curved hems. With a little

practice it will be a very quick and easy hem

application and the hem wilt never need re

pairing.Procedure:

(1) Prepare raw edge of hem in desired manner,

such as overcast, 114 inch stitched under

pinked, hem tape, or just plain. (Step 1) STEP 2

(2) Fold hem up desired length. Baste or pin 1/2

inch from upper edge. Press in place. (Step 2)

(3) Fold hem back toward right side of fabric

leaving about 1/4 inch extended. (Step 3)

(4) Guide the fold of the fabric into the center

cut of the presser foot so that the zigzag bite

of the stitch comes just slightly to the left to

the center cut of the presser foot and the

zigzag wide bite should catch just barely

into the fold of the fabric at the left.

(5) When stitching is completed, remove fabric

from machine and turn to right side. Press

cnmpleted hem.STEP

When hemming an A-line skirt, place a machine

basting stitch along the raw edge of the hem. At

an ironing board, fold up the hem, matching the

seams. Ease in the excess fabric by pulling or,

basing thread. Press with steam, then apply hem

tape. Baste or pin hem 1/2” from taped edge,

then continue into step 3.

STEP 5

—32—-

ZIPPER SEWING

C

By using special zipper foot withsliding adjuster, zipper sewingcan be easily done withoutturning fabric.

Loosen screw ® and set foot sothat needle comes into position

®. Tighten screw.

Sew right side of zipper guidingfabric carefully so that right sideteeth of tipper are parallel withleft edge of foot.

Re-set foot so that needle comesinto position ©.Sew left side of zipper in thesame way.

—33—

MENDtNG

Patching

vvvvvvv9

iA A A A A A A A Ais siii ls,s huh

W_V V V V V V V A V

Place the patch over the worn

part.Sew along the edge of the patch

on the right side. Trim away the

worn part close to the seam on

back side.A A A A A A A A A A

V A A A

V V V V V V V V V V V V V

Mending a Rip

Set machine in the same way

as for patching.

Sew the edges of tear together

first.Then sew two more seams on

either side.

A piece of gauze can be placed

underneath to reinforce the rip.

—34—

Darning

Set stitch length at ‘O’

_q_:4_(‘t r-Thfr1

_4

Stretch fabric over the hoop ®or sew with free armcTh accordingto the part you are going to darn.

ISew over the worn-out part withcoseIy spaced. stiches guidingmaterial back and forth by hand.

By making turning points blunt,the darned part becomes softerand more flexible

—35---

LAPPED SEAM SEWING

P’ace one piece of fabric over

another according to the width

of stitch size.

® For non-fray fabrics.( For easy to fray fabrics.

Sew over fo’ded area from right

side.

—36—

APPLIQUE WORK

Draw design on material to beused as an applique and cut it out.Place cut-out on base materialand baste it.

Sew around outline with zigzagstitch adjusting stitch length andwidth according to shape andsize of cut-out and type of basematerial.

To change direction at corners.or to sew very small circles, stopmachine, positioning needle justaway from edge of cut-out, liftpresser foot and turn material.Lower presser foot and continuesewing.

Sew a few stitches at end withzigzag width at 0.This is to prevent unstitching.

—37—

Needie Thread

No. 9 120—100

No. 11 100—SO

No. 14 60—50

EMBROIDERY

Set stitch length at “0”

Remove foot, and holder screw.

To avoid lower thread being

pulled up, reduce upper thread

tension.

For good embroidery, it is

important to use correct needles

and thread.

Use thin embroidery silk for

upper thread and a thinner silk

of same kind and color for

lower thread.Trace your design on material

and center it in embroidery hoop.

Make sure material is taut.

Pull out lower thread by turning

hand wheel towards you while

holding upper thread lightly.

Lower presser foot lifter.

Hold both threads and start

sewing along outline of design

with satin stitch.

Continue sewing guiding hoop

by hand.

To finish filling, sew several

stitches with zigzag width at 0.

Lay typewriting paper underneath

when embroidering sheer fabric.

—38—

MAINTENANCE

Your machine requires regularcIeanng and oiling for satisfactory sewing performance.A machine which is used for afew hours a day needs to becleaned and oiled once a month.

Cleaning

Remove foot and needle.Remove needle plate.

Brush off all dust and lint on feeddog with cleaning brush.

Turn latches outwards.

Remove hook race cover.Remove hook. Clean hook racewith a cleaning brush and a softcloth.

—39--

Oiling

Use oil manufactured specially

for sewing machine use. Other

oils will eventually cause

mechanism to jam.:4

Apply one drop of oil to part of :

hook where friction occurs.

I

Open face cover and apply oil in

the same way.

Be careful not to apply too much

oil or it may stain your material

and cause some sewing difficulty.

After oiling, run machine for 1-2 11minutes to allow oil to penetrate

to every part.

Remove top by loosening

Apply one drop of oil to lubricating points indicated by arrows.

TROUBLE CHART

PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION

Breaking lower Thread not wound evenly on the bobbin P.10, R9

thread or not drawn up Correctly

Lower thread tension too tight P.12

Lint stuck in the bobbin case and inside Remove lintthe tension spring and fluff with a

cleaning brush

Skipping stitches Needle not fully inserted P. 7

Needle bent P. 7

Size or type of needle and thread not P 17suitable for the material

Incorrect upper threading P. 13

Too nuch oil on the hook P. 40

Irregular stitches Incorrect size of needle for the material P. 17

Upper thread tension too loose P. 13

Incorrect lower tension P 1 2

The material not Pattern selection dial not set correctly P. 18, 22fed correctly

Lint stuck on the feed dog P. 39

—41--

Oiling

Use oil manufactured specially

for sewing machine use. Other

oils will eventually cause

mechanism to jam.

Apply one drop of oil to part of

hook where friction occurs.

Open face cover and apply oil in

the same way.

Be careful not to apply too much

oil or it may stain your material

and cause some sewing difficulty.

After oiling, run machine for 1-2

minutes to allow oil to penetrate

to every part.

Remove top cover by loosening

screws ® and ® with large

screwdriver.

Apply one drop of oil to ‘ubricating points indicated by arrows.

—40—