Window Type Air Conditioner

8/13/2019 Window Type Air Conditioner

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Window Type Air Conditioner

NOTE:Before attempting any maintenance on your AC unit, power the unitoff and unplug it from the electrical receptacle.

Check the air filter at least twice a month to see if cleaning is necessary. Trappedparticles in the filter can build up and block the airflow that can reduce coolingcapacity and cause an accumulation of frost on the evaporator.

To clean the Air Filter:

Pull the inlet grille forward. Remove the air filter from the front grille by pulling the air filter up slighlty. Wash the filter using lukewarm water below 104F (40C). Gently shake away excess water from the filter, allow it to air dry, and

reinstall the filter.

To ensure continued peak efficiency the evaporator coils (inside behind frontgrille) and condenser coils (outside of the unit) should be checked periodically andcleaned if they've become dirty or clogged with soot.

Cleaning the coils:

Evaporator Coils:Remove the front grill, use a brush attachment with a

vacuum cleaner to clean up any dust or debris that has made it past the airfilter. If you are cleaning the coils after the air conditioner has already beenrunning, put the unit in fan mode for about an hour in order to allow anycondensed moisture on the evaporator coils to dry.

Condenser Coils:If possible, use a brush attachment with a vacuum cleanerto remove any dirt or debris that has build up from the outside. If using thevacuum isn't an option, you can also use a hose pipe to clean the condensorcoils. Remove any garden sprayer attachments and allow the water to flowdirectly from the end of the hose down over the coils to wash away dirt anddebris.

NOTE:The fins are sharp so take care when cleaning them. Do NOT bend thefins. If this happens accidentally you can purchase a fin comb from a localhardware store. The fin comb can be used to straighten any bent fins.

When it comes to keeping the case of the AC looking new and clean, just followthese simply guideliens.


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Check for and repair refrigerant and oil leaks aroundequipment seals, pipe joints, valves and otherinstrumentation.

Inspect the liquid line leaving the strainer. Regularly check all gauges to ensure that design conditions

are being met. Listen to the system operate for a few minutes to determine

the cause of any unusual sounds. Inspect the tension and alignment of all belts and adjust as

needed. Lubricate motor bearings and all moving parts. Inspect the insulation on suction and liquid lines and

replace as necessary. Calibrate digital-based controls and check for software

updates.

Compressor

Check for unusual compressor operation, including

continuous running or frequent stopping and starting. Inspect the compressor and check amp draw.

Listen to the compressor operate for a few minutes to checkfor unusual sounds.

Check to see that the compressor and motor are securelyfastened to the base.

Check all compressor joints for leaks.

Regularly inspect instrumentation to ensure that the oilpressure and temperature match manufacturer'sspecifications.

Lubricate the compressor and its components tomanufacturer's specifications.


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Air-cooled condenser

Check the fan belt drive and motor to make sure they areproperly aligned and lubricated.

Ensure that refrigerant piping connections to the condensercoil are tight.

Clean condenser coils, fins and tubes. Determine if hot air is being bypassed from the fan outlet to

the coil inlet.

Check for the proper temperature difference between theoutside air and the condenser fan discharge air.

Evaporative condenser

Inspect piping joints and check for leaks. Check for dirt on the coil surface. Inspect the air inlet screen, spray nozzles, water distribution

hoses and the pump screen. Check to see if the water supply leaves surface deposits on

the coil. Follow manufacturer's guidelines for fan and pump

maintenance.

Cooling towers

Conduct a chemical analysis to determine if solidconcentrations are maintained at acceptable levels.

Check the clearance of the overflow pipe from the normaloperating water level.

Listen to the fan and determine the cause of any unusualnoise or vibration.

Inspect the V-belt and the alignment of the fan and motor.


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Ensure that the tower and intake strainer are clean. Determine if air is bypassed from the tower outlet back to

the inlet.

Inspect spray-filled and gravity distributed towers forproper nozzle performance; be sure the nozzles are clean. Inspect gravity distributed towers for even water depth in

the distribution basins. Monitor the effectiveness of any water-treatment programs.

Chillers

Have all large tonnage chillers inspected once a year by atrained professional. Regularly check and change compressor oil and refrigerant

filters.

Monitor refrigerant charge. Test water quality and adjust as needed.

Check purge operation in the case of low-pressurerefrigerants.

Keep water-side tubing clean and the refrigerant side freeof non-condensable materials.

Check drive alignment, wear, seating and operation.

Absorption equipment

Clean condenser and absorber tubes annually. Clean the strainer and seal tank regularly. Lubricate flow valves regularly. Replace the rubber diaphragms in the service valves every

three to five years.


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Self-contained units (window and through-the-wall units and

heat pumps)

Clean evaporator and condenser coils, air intake louvers

and filters. Keep airflow from units unrestricted. Replace worn caulking in openings between the units and

windows or wall frames. Check the voltage to ensure that the unit is operating at full

power. Follow applicable maintenance guidelines for compressors,

condensers and fans. Check for proper operation of the heat pump's reversing

valve.

Ductless mini splitsperform an important function for homeowners who dont want to cool

every room in the house with central air or who dont have the necessary ductwork.

Preventive maintenance for ductless mini splits keeps them performing correctly. A mini

split consists of a compact air handler in a single room, connected to an outdoor condenser

coil unit via a conduit that conveys refrigerant through insulated pipes.

Ductless mini splits can deliver greater efficiency than central A/C and are quieter and less

obtrusive than window units all without the expense and maintenance of ductwork. They

utilize straightforward heat pump components and have the service life and dependability

associated with that technology. Some preventive maintenance for ductless mini splits falls

under the DIY category; other maintenance requires a qualified HVAC technician. Heres a

rundown of each:

Homeowner maintenance

1. Change the primary filter every two months. If the unit is equipped with a plasma

Indoor Air Quality filter, clean it when the reminder light illuminates.

2. Vacuum dust from the indoor evaporator coil and wipe away dirt buildup. Leave

heavier, stubborn dirt deposits or mold accumulation for a professional cleaning.
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3. Clean the condensate drain pan drain and verify that the drain is open. If theres

evidence of mold or algae growth, let an HVAC technician handle it.

4. Cut weeds or other encroaching vegetation from around the outdoor condenser to

allow two feet of free space on all sides for airflow.

Professional maintenance

1. Inspect and clean the evaporator coil.

2. Check the balance of the blower and fan wheel and verify sufficient airflow.

3. Inspect the condensate drain system for algae and treat with algaecide if necessary.

4. Check the refrigerant charge and top up as necessary. If the level is significantly low,

perform leak detection procedures.

5. Clean the condenser coil and clear out debris such as grass clippings and leaves.

6. Verify electrical connections at the outdoor unit and weatherproof with non-conductive

coating.

7. Lubricate the condenser fan and adjust belt tension if required.

8. Check thermostat operation and calibrate if necessary.

Window air conditioners are very simple appliances. They

operate on the exact same principles as a refrigerator, freezer, ordehumidifier.

Please look for information on how window air conditionerswork in these areas:

Cooling

All residential window air conditioners have a cooling systemmade up of four primary components, a compressor, anevaporator, a metering device, and a condenser. Air conditionercooling systems are better understood if you think of them asdevices that remove warmth from the air rather than cooling theair.


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Blower fan

When the unit is running, the circulating fan and compressor arerunning simultaneously. The fan motor has two fan blades

attached to it on either end. The fan blade on the inside part ofthe unit continually draws room air over the evaporator coils,which are cold. The fan blade on the outside part of the unitcontinually draws fresh outside air over the condenser coils,which are warm. Because the evaporator coils are cold, theycause moisture in the room to collect on them, much like a cupof ice water on a warm, humid day. When the amount ofmoisture increases, it begins to drip down off of the coils into

the bottom pan of the air conditioner.

Thermostat control

The thermostat on a window air conditioner works by sensingthe air temperature entering the air conditioner. As the airentering the unit reaches the set temperature it will cause thecompressor to turn off. The blower may continue to rundepending on the selection chosen on the control panel. Digitalthermostats work on a similar principle but display a moreprecise temperature.

Selector switches

The air conditioner selector switches allow the user to choosethe fan speed. The compressor always runs at the same speedregardless of the settings. If low cool is chosen, for example, the

fan runs at a slower speed but the compressor still offers thesame cooling capacity. There are other switches to controllouver operation and other features on some units.


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WHAT IS WRONG WITH YOUR AIR CONDITIONER?

It doesn't turn on at all

Check to see if there is power getting to the air conditioner. If it

is a 110-volt unit, plug a lamp or other device into the sameoutlet the air conditioner is plugged into. If there's no power,check the fuses or circuit breakers. If there's still no power, youwill need to contact a qualified electrician to restore power tothe outlet.

If there is power to the appliance but it is still completely dead

there may be a problem in one or more of the following areas: Wiring (Inspect for any broken or burnt wiring) Thermostat Compressor Overload and/or relay Selector switch Control board

Work on these areas of an appliance may require help from anappliance repair person or other qualified technician.

The fan runs but there's no cold air?

Is the air conditioner completely dead? See section 1. Is thethermostat knob turned to the proper setting? Is the compressormotor running? The compressor is a football-sized case with no

apparent moving parts. It is located inside the air conditioner atthe center. Is it humming or making any kind of continuousnoise or causing the lights to dim? If it is making a continuousnoise, and your air conditioner is still not cooling at all, theremay be a serious problem with one or more of these areas:


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Compressor Condenser

Evaporator

These items are not user serviceable. You will need to contact aqualified appliance repair technician to repair these components.

If the compressor is not running but you do have power to theair conditioner there may be a problem in one or more of theseareas:

Compressor Overload and/or relay Thermostat (Open thermostat) Burnt wiring Bad selector switch Capacitor

The air is cool but doesn't seem cold enough

If the air doesn't seem cool enough it is necessary to use athermometer to check the difference in temperature between theair going into the unit and the air being blown into the room.Ideally, the temperature difference should be more than 15degrees. For example, if the temperature going into the airconditioner is 80 degrees, the temperature coming out of the unitshould be at least 65 degrees or less. If the difference is 15degrees or more there is probably no cause for concern. If the

temperature difference is less than 15 degrees you should checkthe following:

Air damper

Check to make sure the air damper is closed. If it's open, it


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will bring in outside air and reduce the efficiency of theunit.

Back cover

During the winter season many people cover their airconditioners to protect the unit from the weather. In thespring or summer they will sometimes forget to remove thecover. If your unit has a cover on the outside portion of theair conditioner remove the cover first.

Condensing coils

The condensing coils will always be on the "warm" side ofthe air conditioner. That is, on the side that faces outside of

the room to be cooled. Air is drawn into the back of the airconditioner on the sides through vent slots and is blowndirectly out through the condenser coils. If the coils getclogged with lint, dust and dirt the cooling system cannotprovide the cooling necessary. To clean the coils it will benecessary to remove the entire cover of the air conditioneror pull it out of the wall to gain access to the coils. They

can be cleaned by blowing compressed air at them or byusing a soft bristle brush to wipe the dirt off. It is importantto also clean any dirt or lint build-up in the bottom of theair conditioner so the condensate water will be picked upby the condensing fan slinger properly.

The unit never turns off

This is normal on some models when fan is set to run constantly.

If the unit is supposed to turn off and it doesn't, it will benecessary to check several things.

First, is the unit cooling properly? See the section entitled"The air is cool but doesn't seem cold enough."


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Next, is the temperature of the room adequately cool? If theroom temperature is cold enough try setting the thermostatto a higher temperature. If the unit then seems to work

properly leave the thermostat set to the higher temperature. If the unit is cooling properly when it is turned on and the

room is not cool enough the problem is probably that theunit is trying to cool an area that is too large for itscapacity. Use the following chart to find the appropriatesize air conditioner to use:

AREA TO BE COOLED / CAPACITY (BTU/HR)

100 to 150 square feet = 5,000150 to 250 square feet = 6,000250 to 300 square feet = 7,000300 to 350 square feet = 8,000350 to 400 square feet = 9,000400 to 450 square feet = 10,000450 to 550 square feet = 12,000

550 to 700 square feet = 14,000700 to 1000 square feet = 18,000

If the room is heavily shaded, reduce needed capacity by10%

If the room receives a lot of direct sun, increase neededcapacity by 10%

Add 600 Btu/Hr for each person in the room if there aremore than two people

If the unit is for a kitchen, increase the capacity by 4,000-


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6,000 Btu/Hr.

If the room size is too big for the air conditioner you have

two possible choices. Either decrease the room size byshutting some doors or partitioning off an area of the room.Or, increase the BTU of the air conditioner for that room byinstalling a different air conditioner with a higher BTUrating.

There is water sloshing around inside

All window air conditioners will remove moisture from the air if

there is any. Most window air conditioners collect this moisturein the bottom pan of the air conditioner and attempt to evaporatethe moisture. The evaporation process works as follows: First,the water drips down off of the cold evaporator coils on the frontof the unit. Then the water collects in the bottom of the airconditioner base, the "pan." If the air conditioner is installedproperly it will be tilted slightly back.

The water then collects near the back of the unit. On some units,the fan blade used to cool the rear condensing coils will have arim on the outside of the fins of the blade. This rim, or "slinger,"will come close to touching the inside of the air conditioner panwhen the fan is spinning. As the water collects in the pan andreaches the depth necessary for the fan ring to touch it, the ringwill lift some of the water up and the fan will blow it at the

condensing coils. Because the coils are warm, they willevaporate the moisture to the outside.

While this is happening it is normal to hear water splashing andsloshing around. As long as there is no water leaking inside theroom that is being cooled there is no cause for concern.


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Never drill into the bottom of and air conditioning unit to "letthe water out."

The unit tries to start for a few seconds and then quits

Every air conditioner has a motor called a compressor. Thecompressor provides the cooling capacity for the air conditioner.If the compressor or its electrical controls are defective thecompressor may try to start, fail, and create an electricaloverload. If the unit does create an overload, every compressorcircuit is also equipped with an overload safety switch. Thesafety switch is designed to protect the compressor from burning

out. The safety switch will cut the power to the compressor for acertain length of time and then reset itself. When it resets it willallow the electricity to flow to the compressor once again. If thecompressor then starts, the unit should function normally. If thecompressor doesn't start when the overload resets, the overloadwill again cut the electricity to the compressor. This cycle willcontinue indefinitely. (Always allow three to five minutes beforerestarting the compressor.) If this situation is occurring, unplugthe air conditioner and get help from a qualified repairtechnician. This problem is often fatal to the air conditionerbecause the cost of repair often exceeds the price of a new airconditioner.

A motor is running but there is no air blowing

Every air conditioner is equipped with at least two motors, the

compressor and the fan motor. It is possible for the fan motor tobe defective and the compressor to be running. If this is the casethe unit will appear to be running and may even sound "normal"but no air is blowing out the front or back of the unit. If, afterremoving the cover of the unit you discover the fan blade is very


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stiff and difficult to rotate, the fan motor should be replaced. Ifthe fan blade turns freely the circuit powering the fan motor willrequire electrical troubleshooting. It will be necessary to have a

qualified technician locate the cause of the problem, which maybe either a problem with the capacitor, the selector switch or themotor itself.

The unit rattles loudly when it turns off

The compressor in all window air conditioners is a powerfulmotor. When it starts up - and especially when it shuts off - thewhole air conditioner can shake, sometimes loudly. Usually

there is nothing that can be done to correct this problem.However, it is possible that the compressor mounting pads andbrackets are worn out or missing. If that is the case the pads andbrackets can sometimes be ordered and replaced.

Be sure that the air conditioner is securely mounted in thewindow frame if the unit shakes at all. It is possible for the unitto shake free of the frame if not installed properly.

Water leaks out the front of the unit

It is normal for water to collect in the lower base of an airconditioner. See the section entitled: "There is water sloshingaround inside." If water leaks out the front it is usually becausethe unit is tilted forward in the window frame. All airconditioners should be installed so they tilt slightly back toallow for proper removal of the condensation collected.

The air smells musty

Air conditioners remove moisture from the air. The watercollects in the base of the unit. Under normal conditions thiswater will be evaporated out of the unit. However, it is possible


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for some water to sit stagnant in the base of the air conditionerfor extended periods of time. There is no easy way to preventthis problem. The problem will be reduced if you carefully clean

the base of the inside of the air conditioner at least once a year.That will keep any dirt, lint or dust from absorbing the water andallowing mold and mildew to grow. Also, replace the filterbehind or in the front cover.

MAINTENANCE TIPS FOR YOUR AIR CONDITIONER

Replace/clean filter every monthAir conditioners are outfitted with a simple electrostatic filter inthe front grill area to filter the air that passes through them. Ifyour unit has a filter you should replace/clean it once a monthduring the cooling season. You can purchase Electrostatic filtercut-to-fit material from our site.

Inspect cooling coils for frost or ice build upIf the temperature outside the room where the air conditioner isplaced becomes cool, approximately 60 degrees Fahrenheit orlower, check the coils on the front of the air conditioner to besure they are not icing up. If they are icing up, turn the airconditioner off until the temperature rises. Also, make sure thefilter is clean.

Don't short cycle the cooling systemAir conditioners have a cooling system identical to arefrigerator's. It is important not to turn the unit off and thenback on right away. Wait at least ten minutes after shutting theunit off to allow the pressure in the refrigeration system to


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equalize once again. This will prolong the life of your airconditioner.

Store the unit in a basement or utility room, not a garage

Mice and other small animals love to nest in air conditioners. Ifthey do they can cause serious damage to the unit by chewing onwiring and insulation. Also, wasps and birds like to nest inuncovered units left in windows. Avoid these problems bystoring the units in a protected area, away from small animals, orby installing a cover on the part of the air conditioner that sticksoutside.

Clean condenser coils annually

The condensing coils on an air conditioner will get very dirtyover time. However, the dirt tends to accumulate on the inside ofthe coils, out of site. It will be necessary to remove the entirecover of the air conditioner to gain access to the coils. They canbe cleaned by blowing compressed air at them or by using a softbristle brush to wipe the dirt off. It is important to also clean any

dirt or lint build-up in the bottom of the air conditioner so thecondensate water will be picked up by the condensing fanslinger properly.

Preventive Maintenance for portable or window air

conditioners

ScottyHVAC Oracle2005-08-06

Portable or window air conditioners are an excellent choice forcooling a single room or and area where ducting cannot be used.


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Regularly is still required for best performance from these smallunits.

The evaporator coil on the cool side should have a thin foamfilters covering the face of the coil. The Filter should beremoved and cleaned regularly. Once a month should besufficient. These filters do not hold dirt well; if they are allowedto get dirty the dirt will pass through to the evaporator where itis harder to remove. If the coil face has become dirty, brush thecoil face off with a soft nylon brush. Dirt allowed to build on thecoil will become trapped between the fins and reduce the air.

This will reduce the cooling capacity and can cause the coil tofreeze.

On the other side, the condenser coil has no filters; it can getvery dirty depending on the environment that it is running in.Flush out the coil with water at the start of each season, before itis installed. This will help to prevent the unit from overheatingon the hottest days of the year when you need it the most. Thedirt builds on the air inlet side of the coil, which normallycannot be seen. If you want to see how dirty the coil is you haveto remove the outer cover to see the air inlet side of the coil.Remove the screws spread out along the sides of the airconditioner, and lift the cover. With a flash light look at the airinlet side of the condenser coil, through the fan blade. Byspraying water from the outside of the coil with hose or pressure

water you can push the dirt back out through the coil. If using apressure washer is used, spray straight onto the fins and stay atleast 12 inches away. A pressure washer can flatten the fins veryquickly is you get to close. When cleaning, be careful not tospray water directly onto the motor or electrical compartment.


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Use a plastic bag to cover up any vent holes on the fan motor.Allow the unit to dry out for several hours before installing andplugging the unit in. Place the unit on an angle to allow the

water to drain back to rear. Any water left in the bottom of thetray is going to spill directly down the front of your shirt whenyou pick up the AC.

Depending on the size of the unit, there will be 1 or 2 fanmotors. Most of the small units use a single multi speed double-shafted fan motor for both the condenser fan and evaporator fanwheel. Give the wheel a spin, does it feel tight or does it spin

freely. Does the shaft move vertically? Any vertical movement,up and down, indicates worn bearings. If the bearings are tightor there is movement, use a little extra oil to loosen the bearingup. The fan may run still and be noisy, but it will quit. With theprice of new portable AC so low and labor being expensive youare better of to replace the whole unit then trying to change thefan motor. Functional replacement motors are available for mostunits if you want to try and change it. Look at the ends of themotor for oil ports. If there are no oil ports then the motor hassealed bearings and cannot be lubricated. If there are oil portsadd a few drops of SAE 20-, which is lightweight electric motoroil with no detergent added. The recommend oil amounts arenormally on the motor nameplate, if you can read them. Lookaround the outside of the fan blades is a slinger, which is used tothrow the condensed water from the evaporator coil up onto the

condenser coil. This help to eliminate the condensate water andprovide additional cooling to the condenser coil. This slinger sitsvery close to the edge of the fan shroud, even a slightmisalignment will cause this to rub and make the unit noisy.With the top casing remove the unit can shift a little and cause


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the fan wheel to rub the edge, make sure the unit is sitting on aflat surface and well supported.

The electrical wiring on the unit should be inspected for any

signs of burning or over heating. Check the tightness of all theelectrical connections, any loose connection will overheat andburn, which can cause the fan or compressor to fail. Remove theretaining clip on the compressor terminal cover. The gasketunder the cover keeps moisture out of the terminal connections.The compressor can sweat when operating and the moisture candrip down into the terminal connections and cause corrosion.

The molded electrical plug of the unit is a common area forelectrical problems. If the forks are loose or discolored, replacethe plug. After the unit is installed and operating and on a hotday, check the temperature of the plug and wall receptacle. If itfeels very warm then there is a connection problem or a lowvoltage. This can be a serious fire hazard There should be a ventflapper near the discharge of the fan. This should have a cableattached to open and close the vent. The vent when open willexhaust air to the outside, this helps to keep the air fresh in theroom. The air expelled by the AC will be drawn in elsewherethrough air leakage in the room, eventually exchanging the totalvolume of the room.

When replacing the casing on the unit use extra caution aroundthe condenser coil. The screws near the condenser may be

shorter than the other. If the screw is too long you can puncturethe condenser coil and release the refrigerant. Give the fanwheel a spin to make sure it is rotating freely. If you hear itrubbing, take the case off and check the position of thecondenser coil and the fan wheel again. Adjust as required.


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After the units has dried out, plug the unit in while still on theworkbench to give it a test run. The work area must be above70%F else the thermostat may not make to start the unit. First

run the fan only and check all speeds- Does the motor soundquite- is the fan rubbing on anything at high speed or low speed?

Next turn the compressor on by lowering the thermostat orswitch to cool mode. Listen to the compressor start. Does it startright away or does it hum then start or does it talk more then a 2seconds to come up to speed? The compressor should start rightaway and sound smooth. A slow start may indicate bearing wear

I the compressor or low voltage. Low voltage can be cause byusing an under sized extension cord. If you are using anextension cord make sure it is a minimum #14 gauge wire andless then 50 feet long. If the compressor is loud or have a rattle,this may indicate worn valves and reduced pumping capacity.

If you are running the unit without the faceplate, air can shortcycle from the discharge back into the intake of the evaporator.

Place a piece of cardboard to deflect the air up and it does getsucked back into the unit. With a good thermometer measure theair discharge temperature. It should be ~15%F less then theroom temperature. This varies depending on what fan speed youare using. The higher the fan speed the lower the TD, at lowspeed the TD will be higher 20%F or higher. A TD of 10%F orless indicates a problem. This could a low refrigerant charge,

overcharged, weak compressor, high head pressure or a cloggedcapillary tube.

If all has checked out then your AC is now good to go, installthe unit in the window or sleeve opening. Make sure the unit issecured in the window and has a slight slope to the back to allow


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for drainage. Wall mounted and window mounted units have adifferent configuration. The window mount units are design tosit in thin profile of the window. If used an opening cut into a

outside wall, the condenser air intake will be partially blocked.Cutting off air to the condenser, which will causes the unit torun hot. This reduces the amount of cooling, increase the energyuse and on a really hot day, the compressor will quit or thebreaker will trip.

After the AC has run for an hour, check that unit is draining outthe back or the water is collecting in the condenser fan area. You

should be able to hear the water in the condenser fan.

Remember to periodically check for the water is draining out theback and feel the electrical plug and receptacle area for heatbuild on the really hot days. Do not run the AC when it is cooloutside, especially on cool clear nights when the outdoortemperature can really drop. This often causes freezing of theevaporator coil. Pull the filter out once every 4 weeks and rinse

it out with water. That's it, the unit should be good for theseason.

9.
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Keeping your coolno matter how hot it

gets.

BY STEVE TOTHSummer's here and your room airconditioner is laboring hard. You can helpthe appliance work more efficiently throughthe months ahead by following a simple

maintenance program, and you might evensave a little money on your utility bill.

Effectively keeping up some appliances --high-efficiency gas or oil furnaces, forexample--requires a technician. Fortunately,

a basic room air conditioner can bemaintained by a homeowner who has only afew hand tools and a shop vacuum.

To begin, unplug the air conditioner andremove the front grille and filter(Figs. 1 and2). The filter traps pollen, dust and dirt, andif it's clogged, you won't get maximumcooling performance. Wash it with a mixture
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of warm water and soap. If the filter hasdeteriorated, replace it. Your local appliance

store, hardware store or home center may beable to supply you with the exact size andtype of replacement part you need. If not,several manufacturers make filters that canadapt to many brands of air conditioners.

These are cut to fit with a pair of scissors.One source for such filters is the GeneralElectric Consumer hotline: (800) 626-2000.A cut-to-fit GE filter costs $8.05 withshipping (state tax is extra).

Remove the air conditioner from thewindow and clear away any accumulateddebris from the windowsill. Take theappliance out of its cabinet. (Some will slideout of the cabinet, but on most, the cabinet is

held in place with screws.) Remove thescrews and put them aside (Fig. 3). Then,use a shop vacuum and crevice tool to get
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rid of leaves and debris from within the airconditioner (Fig. 4).

To clean the inside (Fig. 5), bring theappliance outdoors and use a paintbrush andsome soapy water. Put plastic bags over thefan motor, electrical control box andcompressor. Secure the plastic with duct

tape. Hose the inside clean (Fig. 6), andmake sure the base, coils and pan forcondensate are clean as well.

When you've finished, remove the plastic

bags and dry off the air conditioner with afresh cloth. Allow the remaining moisture toevaporate, or you can accelerate the dryingprocess by blowing out moisture with a canof compressed air. Single-use cans ofcompressed air are available through toolcatalogs and some hardware stores. You canalso try using a rechargeable air tank, which
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is sold at hardware stores, home centers andauto parts stores.

When the appliance is dry, reassemble andreinstall it in the window, following thegeneral guidelines mentioned below. It's agood idea to allow the air conditioner toremain idle for one full day--just to be sure

that the machine is thoroughly dry beforeyou begin running it.

Reinstallation

Now that the maintenance of your air

conditioner is complete, it's time to startthinking about ways of getting maximumperformance and durability out of theappliance.

Many people mistakenly believe that air

conditioners need to be pitched down,slightly out of level, to help them draincondensate. Actually, the exact opposite istrue. An air conditioner should be installed


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so it's level. These appliances are designedso that condensate collects below the fan

and runs into the slinger ring, which is madeof sheetmetal and is part of the fanassembly. The bottom of the ring acts like agutter to collect condensate. The fan thenpicks the water out of the ring and slings it

against the condenser coils.Recycling the condensate in this mannerincreases the coils' cooling capacity. Checkthe air conditioner for level -- front to backand side to side -- when you install the unit.

If the appliance's side panels are cracked,now is the time to replace them. In somecases, you can get a single side panel froman appliance store (each side costs about $15to $30), or you may have to buy both sides -- and the guides that they run in. Somepeople opt not to replace the side panelswhen they wear out. Instead, they remove


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the panels and screw clear plastic sheet(Plexiglas, for example) over the runners.

This also lets in a little extra daylight.Take steps to seal the area where thewindow closes on top of the air conditioner.In many instances, the foam strip that camewith the appliance will have worn out. The

gap left by an improper seal is energyinefficient, not to mention an entryway forbugs. Appliance stores sell kits called AirConditioner Window Foam. These arenothing more than bags with foam strips that

have peel-and-stick backing. If you can'tfind one of these kits, you may substituteadhesive-backed weatherstripping.Weatherstripping can also be used as avibration damper when a storm window or

screen rests on the top of the appliance.

If your air conditioner is installed in a vinylreplacement window, think about using a


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wood reinforcement strip below theappliance to distribute its weight. An air

conditioner is heavy enough to distort somevinyl replacement windows. Also, considerscrewing L-brackets into the windowchannel rather than letting the unit restagainst the window sash. Again, the brackets

bear the weight of the air conditioner -- notthe replacement sash.

If you have a problem with birds buildingnests under the air conditioner, install a thin,exterior-grade strip of plywood or a piece of

painted solid wood to block their entry.

Operation Tips

Finally, there are things you can do to helpreduce the heat load on your air conditioner.One sounds obvious, but it's oftenoverlooked: Draw blinds or drapes on thesunny side of the house to block out theSun's rays. In hot, sunny climates, awnings


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can also substantially reduce heat gain.Further, keep the garage door shut and close

all the windows in the house.Along similar lines, the same kinds ofweatherstripping that prevent heat loss in thewinter also prevent heat gain in the summer.Properly weatherstripped doors and

windows, combined with attic insulation, areyour best defense against wasted energy.

And don't overlook ventilation. Attic, ridgeand soffit vents should be cleared of bird

and insect nests so that attic heat can escape.Winterizing your air conditioner at the endof the season is simple. If you leave it in thewindow, wrap it with plastic sealed withduct tape, or buy an air-conditioner cover.

With stay-in-place machines, also rememberto close the vents. If you take the applianceout of the window, be careful not to bend ordamage the cooling fins on the back of it.


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And don't store an air conditioner on agarage floor, where it could come into

contact with corrosive de-icing salts that candrip off of a car's tires.

How to Troubleshoot a Window Unit

Room air conditioners, also called window units, work the same way central air conditioners do. They are

smaller than central systems and often more expensive to operate. Depending on its size, a room unit

may cool only the room in which it's located, or it may be able to cool adjoining rooms as well.

Sandwiched between the coils are a compressor, two fans, a motor, and thermostat controls. Dirt is the

biggest enemy of window air conditioners; it can lower the efficiency of the evaporator coil, block the

operation of the fan that blows out the cool air, clog filters, and block drain ports.

The coils, the compressor, and the motor of a room air conditioner are sealed components, so any repairs

to them should be left to a professional service person. However, you can make minor repairs, and

regular maintenance will keep your unit running well. When extensive repairs are needed, you can also

save the cost of a service call by removing the air conditioner from its mounting and taking it to the repair

shop.

During the winter, room air conditioners should be protected from the elements. Either remove the unit

from its mounting and store it or cover the outside portion of the unit with a commercial room air

conditioner cover or with heavy plastic sheeting, held in place with duct tape.

Caution:Before doing any work on a room air conditioner, make sure it's unplugged. Room air

conditioners have either one or two capacitors, located behind the control panel and near the fan.

Capacitors store electricity, even when the power to the unit is turned off. Before you do any work on an

air conditioner, unplug it and discharge the capacitor or you could receive a severe shock. The unit'sowner's manual will show the location of capacitors and tell how to discharge them. Otherwise, let an air

conditioning technician do it.

Maintaining Key Components

The filter, power cord, coils, switch, thermostat, drain ports, and fan are important to service on a routine

basis to avoid larger problems. Below are guidelines on how to maintain these key parts.


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Filter

At the beginning of every cooling season and once a month during the season, remove the front grille and

clean or replace the filter. If you live in a very dusty area, clean or replace the filter more often. Most room

air conditioners have a washable filter that looks like sponge rubber.

Clean the filter with a solution of mild household detergent and water; rinse well. Let the filter drycompletely before reinstalling it. Some units have a throwaway filter, similar to a furnace filter. When this

type of filter becomes dirty, replace it with a new one of the same type.

Power Cord

The power cord that connects the air conditioner to the wall outlet may become worn and fail to supply

electricity to the unit. To check the cord, remove the control panel. Unscrew the cord terminals and then

attach a test wire across the bare lead wires.

Hook the clips of a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale to the prongs of the cord's plug. If

the meter reads zero, the cord is functioning. If the meter reads higher than zero, replace the cord.

Evaporator and Condenser Coils

Clean the evaporator and condenser coils at the beginning of the cooling season and every month during

the season. If you live in a very dusty area, clean the coils more often. Use a vacuum cleaner on these

components.

If the fins on the coils are bent, straighten them with a fin comb, sold at most appliance parts outlets. A fin

comb is designed to slide into the spaces between the fins. Use it carefully as the fins are made of light-

gauge aluminum and are easily damaged.

Switch

The selector switch, located directly behind the control panel, turns the unit on. If the air conditioner does

not run at any setting, and it is receiving power, chances are the switch is faulty. To correct the problem,

remove the control panel and locate the switch. Check the switch terminals for burnt insulation or burn

marks on the terminals. If you see any indication of burning, replace the switch with a new one of the

same type.

The switch is held to the control panel or frame with screws; unscrew it and connect the new one the

same way. If you determine the problem may not be the switch, call a professional service person.

Maintaining the thermostat and drain ports on your home air-conditioning window unit is vital to keep the

whole system working properly. It won't be a difficult or burdensome task if you folllow the guidelinesmentioned below.

Cleaning the Evaporator

The evaporator for the central air system is located directly above the furnace in the plenum. The

evaporator may not be accessible, but if it is, you should clean it once a year. If the plenum has foil-

wrapped insulation at its front, you can clean the evaporator; if the plenum is a sealed sheet metal box,

do not attempt to open it. Here's how to clean an accessible evaporator:


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Step 1: Remove foil-wrapped insulation at front of plenum; it's probably taped in place. Remove tape

carefully, because you'll have to replace it later. Behind insulation is access plate, which is held in place

by several screws. Remove screws and lift off plate.

Step 2: Clean entire underside of evaporator unit with stiff brush. A large hand mirror can help you see

what you're doing. If you can't reach all the way back to clean entire area, slide evaporator out a little.Evaporator can be slid out even if it has rigid pipes connected to it, but be careful not to bend pipes.

Step 3: Clean tray below evaporator unit. This tray carries condensation away from evaporator. Pour 1

tablespoon of household bleach into weep hole in tray to prevent fungus growth. In extremely humid

weather, check condensate drain and pan every other day. If there's much moisture in pan, weep hole

from pan to drain line may be clogged. Open weep hole with piece of wire.

Step 4: Put unit back into place, reinstall plate, and tape insulation back over it.

Step 5: Turn back on air conditioner, and check for air leaks. Seal any leaks with duct tape.

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Maintaining the Condenser

In most air-conditioning systems, the condenser unit is located outside the house and is prone to

accumulate dirt and debris from trees, lawn mowing, and airborne dust. The condenser has a fan that

moves air across the condenser coil. You must clean the coil on the intake side, so, before you turn off

the power to the air conditioner, check to see which direction the air moves across the coils. Here's how

to clean the condenser:

Step 1: Cut down any grass, weeds, or vines that have grown around condenser unit; they could be

obstructing airflow.

Step 2: Clean condenser with commercial coil cleaner, available at refrigerator supply stores. Instructions

for use are included. Flush coil clean (do not use hose); let dry.

Step 3: Clean fins with soft brush to remove accumulated dirt. You may have to remove protective grille

to reach them. Do not clean fins with garden hose, as water could turn dirt into mud and compact it

between fins. Clean fins very carefully: They're made of light-gauge aluminum and are easily damaged. If

fins are bent, straighten them with fin comb, sold at most appliance parts stores. A fin comb is designed

to slide into spaces between fins. Use it carefully to avoid damaging fins.

Step 4: Check concrete pad on which condenser rests to make sure it's level. Set carpenters' level front

to back and side to side on top of unit. If pad has settled, lift pad with pry bar or piece of 2-by-4, then force

gravel or rocks under concrete to level it.
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During the fall and winter, outside condenser units should be protected from the elements to prevent leaf

blockage and ice damage. Cover the condenser unit with a commercial condenser cover made to fit the

shape of the unit or use heavy plastic sheeting secured with sturdy cord.

How to Troubleshoot a Window Unit

Room air conditioners, also called window units, work the same way central air conditioners do. They aresmaller than central systems and often more expensive to operate. Depending on its size, a room unit

may cool only the room in which it's located, or it may be able to cool adjoining rooms as well.

Sandwiched between the coils are a compressor, two fans, a motor, and thermostat controls. Dirt is the

biggest enemy of window air conditioners; it can lower the efficiency of the evaporator coil, block the

operation of the fan that blows out the cool air, clog filters, and block drain ports.

The coils, the compressor, and the motor of a room air conditioner are sealed components, so any repairs

to them should be left to a professional service person. However, you can make minor repairs, and

regular maintenance will keep your unit running well. When extensive repairs are needed, you can also

save the cost of a service call by removing the air conditioner from its mounting and taking it to the repair

shop.

During the winter, room air conditioners should be protected from the elements. Either remove the unit

from its mounting and store it or cover the outside portion of the unit with a commercial room air

conditioner cover or with heavy plastic sheeting, held in place with duct tape.

Caution:Before doing any work on a room air conditioner, make sure it's unplugged. Room air

conditioners have either one or two capacitors, located behind the control panel and near the fan.

Capacitors store electricity, even when the power to the unit is turned off. Before you do any work on an

air conditioner, unplug it and discharge the capacitor or you could receive a severe shock. The unit's

owner's manual will show the location of capacitors and tell how to discharge them. Otherwise, let an air

conditioning technician do it.

Maintaining Key Components

The filter, power cord, coils, switch, thermostat, drain ports, and fan are important to service on a routine

basis to avoid larger problems. Below are guidelines on how to maintain these key parts.

Filter

At the beginning of every cooling season and once a month during the season, remove the front grille and

clean or replace the filter. If you live in a very dusty area, clean or replace the filter more often. Most room

air conditioners have a washable filter that looks like sponge rubber.

Clean the filter with a solution of mild household detergent and water; rinse well. Let the filter dry

completely before reinstalling it. Some units have a throwaway filter, similar to a furnace filter. When this

type of filter becomes dirty, replace it with a new one of the same type.

Power Cord


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The power cord that connects the air conditioner to the wall outlet may become worn and fail to supply

electricity to the unit. To check the cord, remove the control panel. Unscrew the cord terminals and then

attach a test wire across the bare lead wires.

Hook the clips of a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale to the prongs of the cord's plug. If

the meter reads zero, the cord is functioning. If the meter reads higher than zero, replace the cord.

Evaporator and Condenser Coils

Clean the evaporator and condenser coils at the beginning of the cooling season and every month during

the season. If you live in a very dusty area, clean the coils more often. Use a vacuum cleaner on these

components.

If the fins on the coils are bent, straighten them with a fin comb, sold at most appliance parts outlets. A fin

comb is designed to slide into the spaces between the fins. Use it carefully as the fins are made of light-

gauge aluminum and are easily damaged.

Switch

The selector switch, located directly behind the control panel, turns the unit on. If the air conditioner does

not run at any setting, and it is receiving power, chances are the switch is faulty. To correct the problem,

remove the control panel and locate the switch. Check the switch terminals for burnt insulation or burn

marks on the terminals. If you see any indication of burning, replace the switch with a new one of the

same type.

The switch is held to the control panel or frame with screws; unscrew it and connect the new one the

same way. If you determine the problem may not be the switch, call a professional service person.

Maintaining the thermostat and drain ports on your home air-conditioning window unit is vital to keep the

whole system working properly. It won't be a difficult or burdensome task if you folllow the guidelines

mentioned below.

Fan

When a fan malfunctions, the problem is usually loose or dirty blades. If the fan won't operate or if it's

noisy, cleaning and tightening will usually fix it. Here's how to repair a room air conditioner's fan:

Step 1:Open cabinet and locate fan.

Step 2:Clean away any debris with vacuum and soft cloth.

Step 3:Check fan blade on motor shaft for looseness. Blade is fastened to shaft with setscrew at hub of

blade.

Tighten setscrew with screwdriver or Allen wrench. If air conditioner has round vent fan, tighten fan on

motor shaft by inserting long-blade screwdriver through port in fan.

Fan is installed in its housing with bolts, and vibration can loosen these fasteners. Then tighten them with

wrench.


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Step 4:If fan has oil ports, apply several drops of 20-weight nondetergent motor oil (not all-purpose oil) to

each port at beginning of cooling season.

Step 5:If you suspect fan motor is faulty, test it with VOM set to RX1 scale. Disconnect terminal wires

from terminals, and clip probes of VOM to wires.

If meter reads between about 3 and 30 ohms, motor is functioning properly. If meter reads either zero or

an extremely high number, replace motor.

To remove the fan motor, remove the fan, the power wires, and several mounting bolts. Install the new

motor with the reverse procedure. However, if the condenser coil must be moved to get the fan out, do

not try to remove the motor. Call a professional service person.

Motor and Compressor

If problems occur in the motor or compressor of the air conditioner, call a professional service person.

By following the routine maintenance mentioned in this article, you will be able to handle most problemsthat occur with your central air conditioning or window unit.

Documents

Window Type Air Conditioner