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n Napa Valley, winery and tasting room structural designs vary tremendously, from sleekly blueprinted lines of glass and metal … to rustic 13th century-era
fortresses. Here, we o� er a selection of winery structures and tasting rooms to investigate, from historically rustic to sophisticated versions of a grownup’s erector set. Fun is the goal and we provide several recommendations from which to choose. Whether visiting one or all, we promise your experience will be unforgettable.
The estate at Artesa Vineyards & Winery in Napa Valley is nothing short of visionary. Inside its winemaking facility, vintner Mark Beringer operates in a space that honors the grape as much as his visitors. The winery structure itself is a clever depiction of simplicity. Cleanly integrated into a hillside, it is a seamless blend of glass, metal, wood and water. In addition, Artesa’s resident artist Gordon Huether has designed a staircase bordered by waterfalls, spectacular contemporary sculptures, a fountain and serene re� ecting pool. Rather than detract, the application of these cleanly designed elements underscores the landscape’s natural beauty.
Artesa harvests its fruit from three distinct microclimates. In Carneros, delicate pinot and chardonnay grapes � ourish under the in� uence of San Pablo Bay, while Bordeaux varietals cultivate well throughout more temperate conditions in Alexander Valley. Fifteen hundred feet above the fog, however, cabernet sauvignon develops a survivalist’s character in Napa’s volcanic soils of the Atlas Peak sub-region. The stunning wines combined with Artesa’s ingenious environs make for an exceptional tasting experience.
Dominus Estate, owned by Christian Moueix, sources its Bordeaux grape varietals from 108-acres of gravelly volcanic, clay and loam soil in the historical Napanook Vineyard. The winery operation and o� ces are contained in a high, linear gabion structure, designed by Pritzker Prize-winning
I
Artesa Vineyard & Winery in NapaPHOTO: Jim Gateley
Napa Valley
Castello di Amorosa, Calistoga PHOTO: Jim Gateley
EXPLORING WINE COUNTRY
beyond the wine: Winery Architecture
and Unique Tasting Room Experiences
Swiss architects Herzog & de Meuron, that virtually melts into the scenery. At a distance, the walls appear to be made of stone-embedded concrete but, in reality, a network of thick wire mesh safely corrals a massive collection of basalt rocks. Not only do Dominus grapes grow in this medium, it houses their wines, too. More than an unlikely conversation piece, the imaginatively con� gured winemaking facility o� ers excellent aeration and climate control, keeping diurnal temperature swings at bay.
Near Calistoga, Sterling Vineyards has a look all its own. Completed in 1972, the outlines of this white structure remain clean and modern, yet resonant of ancient in� uences from Grecian Mykonos Island. On each quarter hour, bells that once graced the centuries-old Church of St. Dunstans-in-the East in London chime from its massive hillside perch overlookng the landscape. A short but scenic tram ride from the valley � oor transports visitors to a unique self-guided wine tour experience.
Inside, there are galleries for perusing, overlooks for viewing the entire winemaking process at one’s own preferred pace, and motion-sensory � at-screen televisions to provide information on command. For those wishing to linger, a massive � eldstone � replace in the tasting room is perfect for cozying up and enjoying any of Sterling’s family of wines. The Sterling View Terrace faces southward, providing vineyard views as far as the town of Yountville, beyond. Even more breathtaking are the sights from the winery’s aerial trams, revealing dramatic panoramas of the surrounding Mayacamas and Vaca mountains.
On the medieval end of the architectural spectrum in Calistoga is Castello di Amorosa. This authentically designed 13th-century Tuscan structure, built by Darryl Sattui, is sited on three hillside acres and boasts 107 uniquely conceived rooms to visit. Not only are there towers, a grand barrel boom and numerous wine cellars to house their vintages, intrepid visitors may discover impromptu adventures in the lower digs, where Castello di Amorosa’s dungeon and in-house
torture chamber await potentially extended stays. The ninety-minute guided tours of the castle are popular so reservations are highly encouraged. Barrel tastes are available along with current releases of their Italian-style wines. Belgian chocolate wine pairings are a favorite. There’s even a horse-drawn vineyard tour available. Alternatively, visitors can choose to repent for any excessive vinous indulgences at an authentic Latin Mass, held every Sunday morning in the Saint Catherine of Siena Chapel.
In Rutherford, Rubicon Estate is entrenched in pioneer winemaking history. Established in 1880, Finland-born Gustave Niebaum heavily invested his Alaskan fur trade earnings in Napa Valley. He founded his successful Inglenook winery before bestowing the estate to his grandnephew during Prohibition.
In 1975, Francis Ford Coppola’s search for a summer home and basement winery became a commitment to ful� ll Niebaum’s legacy when he purchased Inglenook’s 78-acre vineyard, along with 124-acres of farmland. Sharing similarities in immigrant history, the � lm director-turned-vintner bought the rest of the former estate twenty years later. In traditional Italian fashion, he renamed it Niebaum-Coppola Rubicon Estate Winery.
The massive, vine-covered domain features stone-embedded walls, fanned plaster ceilings, a grand staircase leading to an intricately stained glass window, and outdoor fountain and pools. Along with the purchase of the Inglenook chateau were the surrounding vineyards, including Martha’s Vineyard (Heitz Wine Cellars) and Beaulieu Vineyard (Georges de Latour). Now reuni� ed, the property is known more simply as Rubicon Estate.
Large casks at Rubicon Estate in Rutherford
PHOTO: Helder Rubeiro
IN A REGION WITH A PENCHANT FOR THE IMAGINATIVE,
THE NAPA VALLEY HAS BECOME THE LOCALE FOR TRANSFORMING WINE
TASTING INTO AN ALL-ENCOMPASSING EXPERIENCE.
CONTINUED ON PAGE 50
Sterling Vineyards in CalistogaPHOTO © Nick Elias
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Celebrating Wine and Jazz
Calistoga innOpen mic, jazz on the patio,
dancing in the pub.
Calistoga: 707.942.4101
CalistogaInn.com
Mustard, Mud & Music 2011
Live jazz by cool cats and crazy combos
in venues throughout Calistoga.
March 5-6, 2011 from 12-5 pm
Calistoga: 707.942.6333
CalistogaVisitors.com
Oxbow Public MarketScrumptious riverfront dining, take-out
picnic provisions, plus live music by
top-name artists (Fridays) and local
favorites (Tuesdays).
Napa: 707.226.6529
OxbowMarket.com
Silo’s Jazz ClubNapa’s favorite spot for jazz. Dinner and
live music weekly, Thurs - Sat evenings.
Napa: 707.251.5833
SilosJazzClub.com
WinerieS WOrtH eXPlOring
Chateau MontelenaCastle-like winery with lake, bridge and
pagoda. Immortalized in 1976 when
its chardonnay surpassed the French
at the 1976 Judgment of Paris tasting,
dramatized in the film“Bottle Shock.”
Calistoga: 707.942.5105
Montelena.com
Hall WineryFirst LEED Gold-certified California winery
to utilize sustainable farming practices.
St. Helena: 707.967.2626
HallWines.com
Swanson VineyardsWhimsically decorated Rococo-
meets-Crayola salon offers three
seated tastings daily.
Oakville: 707.754.4018
SwansonVineyards.com
V. Sattui WineryFounded in 1885 by Vittorio Sattui.
Two-story, stone winery on a 230-acre
estate. Marketplace offers Italian pastas,
paninis, desserts, international cheeses.
St. Helena: 707.963.7774
VSattui.com
lOCal Jazz MUSiCianS
dena deroseEffortless, smooth-as-butter jazz vocals
with ShirleyHorn stylings.
DenaDeRose.com
Swing 7Classic swing of ’30s and ’40s, Latin, R&B,
light jazz, Dixieland.
Calistoga: 707.963.2069
Swing7.com
twice as good bluesFather and son duo performs
high-energy blues, soul, rock.
TwiceAsGood.org
aCtiVitieS and eVentS
artisan Wine toursEnjoy customized luxury tours
throughout Napa Valley.
Sonoma: 877.414.2021
ArtisanWineTours.com
“Santa train” by napa Valley Wine train
Kid-friendly, ninety-minute, antique
train ride, Napa to Yountville,
round-trip. Reserve early.
December 13-24, 2010 at 9 am
Napa: 800.427.4124
WineTrain.com
taste of beringer tourHour-long tours, year-round, with
demonstration vineyard, Old Stone Winery,
wine-aging tunnels, and wine tasting.
St. Helena: 707.963.8989, ext. 2222
(reservations)Beringer.com
lOdging
the inn on FirstSan Francisco-style B&B, Cordon Bleu-
trained chef, dog-friendly accommodations.
Napa: 866.253.1331
TheInnOnFirst.com
la belle epoqueQueen Anne Victorian inn. Stained
glass accents, shaded garden and patio.
Signature breakfasts. Wine cellar
evening gatherings.
Napa: 707.257.2161 / 800.238.8070
LaBelleEpoque.com
Old World inn bed & breakfastFamily-style inn with featherbeds,
fireplaces, and gourmet breakfasts.
Walk to wineries, restaurants, shopping,
Napa Wine Train.
Napa: 707.0112OldWorldInn.com
reStaUrantS
buster’s Southern bbQ & bakery
Warning: Vegetarians may fall off the
wagon here! Roadside pit-fired eatery
features Southern barbecue and sweet
potato pie.
Calistoga: 707.942.5605
BustersSouthernBBQ.com
Morimoto napaMorimoto’s sizzling waygu beef
carpaccio, spicy tuna maki, and chirashi
sushi win raves at this upscale restaurant.
Napa: 707.252.1600
MorimotoNapa.com
Pearl restaurantLocal favorites include raw oysters on the
half-shell and fish tacos.
Napa: 707.2224.9161
TheRestaurantPearl.com
inFOrMatiOn
the napa Valley destination Council
Vacation package offers activities,
lodging, restaurant, and events
information.
Napa: 707.226.5813
LegendaryNapaValley.com
napa Valley Vintners association
Not-for-profit trade association
St. Helena: 707.963.3388
NapaVintners.com
Our Napa Valley Picks
Beringer Vineyards’
historic carved casks
PHOTO: Jim Gateley
La Belle Epoque, a boutique inn
cOnTinuEd frOm PaGE 49
Buster’s Southern BBQ & Bakery in calistoga
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rasping “a sense of place” from the contents of a wine bottle is great for practiced palates, but even wine neophytes can say, with con� dence, that the environment in which the wine is tasted has plenty of in� uence, too. Next time you visit Sonoma County, why
not test-drive this theory at a full spectrum of remarkable wine tasting venues?From huge wine caves that host lavish dinners, to medieval-inspired
stone fortresses, diverse winery architecture runs the gamut in Sonoma County. Among them, popular Buena Vista Winery is California’s oldest winery, a far cry from the little-known Quivira Vineyards where green technology is embraced nearly 300 solar panels strong. Other operations with past-lives include Hop Kiln Winery, which stashed harvests of hops for beer-making before defecting to wine. Here, we take focus on several Sonoma County wineries with interesting architecture and tasting rooms worthy of your consideration.
Founded in 1904, Kunde Estate Winery o� ers a complete wine tasting experience on their vast, four-generation property in the Valley of the Moon. At 17,000-square-feet, the two-story winery is a loyal replica of the original Kinneybrook Ranch cattle barn. Everyone enjoys sipping wine near the fountains and re� ecting pool, but for those who desire a more private and “upscale” educational wine experience, that too may be arranged on the comfort of leather sofas. For those who really need to get away from it all, there’s even a VIP room located a whopping 175-feet beneath their syrah vineyards. Other options include pond-side picnicking and guided wine cave tours. Private parties may arrange for mountain top tastings with gorgeous views of Sonoma Valley and the San Francisco Bay, beyond.
Ledson Winery & Vineyards in KenwoodPHOTO: Jon Parisi
Stylist fountain at Ferrari-Carano
Sonoma County
G
Winery Architecture and Unique Tasting Room
Experiences
BY MELISSA CHAVEZ
EXPLORING WINE COUNTRY
EXPLORING WINE COUNTRY
EXPLORING WINE COUNTRY
At Jacuzzi Family Vineyards, you’ll find design elements borrowed from medieval European monasteries and the Jacuzzi family’s former Italian home, the perfect backdrop for their Italian varietal wines. Here, the high stone-in-stucco walls incorporate arches over expansive windows and doorways. Mission-style corridors, wood-plank shutters with wrought iron hardware, wood beam ceilings, marble sculptures, stained glass, and Venetian-style glass chandeliers grace the interior. The entire structure surrounds an oblong, stone-paved courtyard where a gnarled tree and St. Francis sculpture stand solitary in the center. A huge barrel room serves as a grand gathering place for special celebrations, while a three-story tower keeps watch of San Pablo Bay and vistas beyond.
At some winery locations, the emphasis is on the land as much the tasting room. This is the case at Benziger Family Winery, where trees shade the grounds and picnic areas and visitors can take a tram tour of the property.
Proprietor Mike Benziger is big on “holistic farming” that achieves quality harvests using sustainable, organic, or biodynamic methods. On the 85-acre family ranch, they cultivate 29 different vineyard blocks. Over one-third of the parcel is devoted to wetlands with water recycling ponds, woodlands, gardens and three wildlife sanctuaries (“insectories”) cultivated with fifty types of plant species to attract birds and beneficial insects. Among the fifty growers from whom they source fruit, there is
an onus to cultivate their vines to not only draw the most distinctive flavors from the grape, but to be good stewards of the land, as well.
A cattle rancher at age nine with nearly 60-head of cattle, Sonoma Valley-born entrepreneur Steve Ledson was a partner in a construction business by the time he was 21-years-old. By midlife, he turned his attention to a personal project near Kenwood when construction began on the grounds of his 17-acre vineyard, the current site of Ledson
Winery & Vineyards. Initially begun as the family home, it’s fair to say that calling this large, neo-Gothic castle with turrets standing four stories tall “imposing” is a considerable understatement. But love it or hate it, it’s not just a showplace. Ledson firmly believes that ninety percent of wine quality is derived from the vineyard, so the winery itself should take a back seat.
Now the tasting room pendulum takes a wide swing to one of the newest wine visitor experiences: the minimalist Williams-Selyem in Healdsburg. Designed by Italian architect Alessandro Belli, the organic design elements include a “green roof ” of native grasses, the repurposing of old redwood fermentation tanks, and solar panels on the roofs—everything in keeping with the winery’s sustainable philosophy. The front exterior of the building is an arching barrel wall with large windows that provide dramatic views of the Russian River Valley. Visitors find themselves inside a glass and metal atrium area that looks up into the barrel vault, one of many elements of the design meant to represent the vernacular of wine. William-Selyem’s philosophy of purchasing only the very best grapes from a variety of sources, and later adding fruit from their estate vineyards, has served them well over the years. Recently, Wine Enthusiast magazine rated 17 of the winery’s 2007 wines at 90 points or higher, with the pinot noir from Litton Estate garnering the ultimate 100 point score. Perfection in both wine and architecture … not bad for a brand started by a couple of friends inside a garage.
We hope you enjoy discovering these unusual locations the next time you come to spectacular Sonoma County wine country, along with a few remarkable “finds” of your own.
Williams Selyem in Healdsburg
Jacuzzi Family Vineyards
in Sonoma
From Huge Wine caVeS tHat HoSt laViSH dinnerS to medieVal-inSpired Stone
FortreSSeS, diVerSe Winery arcHitecture runS tHe gamut in Sonoma county.
continued on page 54
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Celebrating Wine and Jazz
21st annual Savor Sonoma Valley
Over 20 wineries offer barrel tastes, food
pairings, art, and live music.
March 19-20, 11 am - 4 pm
Glen Ellen: 866.794.9463
HeartOfSonomaValley.com
affrontiJazz, vocal and acoustic music on
Thursday nights; Sunday jazz brunch;
first Wednesday winemaker dinners.
Healdsburg: 707.431.1113
AffrontiHealdsburg.com
Wells Fargo Center for the arts
December concerts: Natalie Cole, Dave
Koz & Friends, Bela Fleck & the Flectones.
Santa Rosa: 707.546.3600
WellsFargoCenterArts.org
WinerieS WOrtH eXPlOring
Ferrari-Carano Vineyards
and WineryGrand Mediterranean-style villa with
gorgeous gardens and views.
Healdsburg: 707.433.6700
Ferrari-Carano.com
imagery WineryWine meets art. Taste the wines and
admire the retrospective display of years
of commissioned wine label art in an
unstuffy tasting room gallery.
Glen Ellen: 707.935.4515, 877.550.4278
ImageryWinery.com
Matanzas Creek WineryFine wines and lush lavender gardens.
Santa Rosa: 800.590.6464, 707.528.6464
MatanzasCreek.com
lOCal Jazz MUSiCianS
Mike greensillJazz pianist.
MikeGreensill.com
greg HesterSolo jazz piano and jazz combo gigs.
GregHesterJazz.com
aCtiVitieS and eVentS
Holiday in CarnerosEnjoy special offerings at an array
of Carneros wineries.
November 20-21 10 am - 4 pm
Tickets: 800.366.2806
CarnerosWineries.org
Four nights of Festive Fun
Quirky Cotati celebrates with tree
lighting, holiday cheer in the pubs,
candlelight concert.
December 1-3Cotati.org
19th annual Winter Wineland
Visit 120 wineries in northern Sonoma
County’s Alexander, Russian River,
and Dry Creek Valleys.
January 15-16 10 am - 4 pm
Healdsburg: 707.433.4335
33rd annual barrel tasting
Open house event takes you to more
than 100 wineries in Dry Creek Valley,
Alexander Valley, and Russian River Valley.
March 4-6 & March 11-13, 11 am - 4 pm
WineRoad.com
Playpus toursPrivate or join-in day-long wine
country tours.
Napa/Sonoma: 707.253.2723
PlaypusTours.com
lOdging
the Fairmont Sonoma Mission inn & SpaHistoric four-star resort with
luxurious spa services.
Boyes Hot Springs: 800.551.2409
Fairmont.com/Sonoma
glenelly inn & Cottages
Cozy fireplace cottages;
family-friendly suites available.
Glen Ellen: 707.996.6720
GlenElly.com
Old Crocker innQuiet country B&B retreat, well off the
beaten track.
Cloverdale: 707.894.4000
OldCrockerInn.com
reStaUrantS
Café laHayeThis intimate spot proves that big things
do come in small packages.
Sonoma: 707. 935.5994
CafeLaHaye.com
the girl and the FigCozy lounge and bar meet country food
with a French passion. A locals’ favorite.
Sonoma: 707.938.3634
TheGirlAndTheFig.com
Omelette expressGreat breakfast spot in fun and historic
Railroad Square.
Santa Rosa: 707.525.1690
Starlight Wine bar restaurant
Authentic train car dining offers comfort
food with a nod to the homespun Big Easy.
Sebastopol: 707.823.1943
StarlightWineBar.com
Sunflower CafféBreakfast served all day at this small café
with a pretty outdoor patio.
Sonoma: 707.996.6645
Syrah bistroSerious foodie territory, courtesy of
chef Josh Silvers’ improv flair.
Santa Rosa: 707.568.4002
SyrahBistro.com
inFOrMatiOn
Healdsburg Visitors bureau
Healdsburg: 707.433.6935
Healdsburg.com
Sonoma Valley Visitor’s bureau
Sonoma: 866.996.1090
SonomaValley.com
Our Sonoma County Picks
The Fairmont Sonoma Mission
Inn & Spa Golf CourseAnnual Savor Sonoma Valley Barrel Tasting
ConTInued FroM pAGe 53
Matanzas Creek Winery
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Rustic wine trail signage© Peter Tellone - Photographer
BACKGROUND PHOTO: “Fire on the Mountain” Sunset over Danza del Sol Winery. © Peter Tellone - Photographer
nlike the more elaborate wineries located on Temecula’s Rancho California Road—where some even o� er lodging, restaurants, and event grounds—the De Portola
Wine Trail features more boutique-scale wineries sharing common denominators of attention-getting wines, microclimatic in� uences of the distinctive Rainbow Gap, and breathtaking surrounds in which to sample some of Temecula’s � nest vinous o� erings.
Set your GPS for Cougar Vineyard & Winery to enjoy hand-crafted Italian varietals. Aglianico, vermentino, sagrantino, and montepulciano (just to name a few “O” wines!) will quickly put your phonetic skills to the test. Sound high falutin’? It’s not. Visitors seem to enjoy Cougar’s sta� as much as their wines. To help ensure quality, a sobering motto o� ers consequential motivation: “You can’t make good wine from bad grapes, but you can make bad wine from good grapes.” Cougar is also the kind of place where blankets are welcome under shady olive trees, deli supplies are available for purchase, and there’s even weekend music to make complete those impromptu wine tasting dates.
The new kid on the trail is Danza del Sol Winery, a 35-acre estate winery that opened its doors just last February. Behind its fresh-scrubbed exterior is Dr. William Filsinger’s 30-year winemaking investment in the winery coupled with owner Robert Olsen’s love for wine and winemaker/manager Mike Tingley, who likewise brings three decades of Temecula Valley wine experience. Along with red and white wines, they o� er champagne in the work-intensive style of méthode champenoise. The freshly remodeled Danza del Sol tasting room provides a large patio with Temecula Valley vistas for sipping and relaxing, and it’s dog and equestrian-friendly, too.
U
THE DE PORTOLA WINE TRAIL
Temecula ValleyBY MELISSA CHAVEZ
Frangipani Estate Winery produces about 4,000 cases of wine annually from their Temecula Valley location. The Spanish Villa-style homestead is within view of the estate’s olive trees, foothills, neighborhood equestrian farms, and vineyards. Don Frangipani wears two hats as owner and winemaker. When possible, he frees himself from the vineyard long enough to pour estate-grown cabernet sauvignon, petite syrah, cabernet franc, and late harvest zinfandel from 30-year-old vines. With a phone call, country barbecues and equestrian events are welcome at their place.
Gershon Bachus is a by-appointment-only, two-story hillside villa offering limited edition white and red wines on some Saturdays and Sundays. Mike Tingley, who developed several Tuscan-themed vintages, has been part of the team since their first planting. Joe Vizcaino serves as tasting room director and apprentice winemaker, while Cordon Bleu-trained chef Adrian Halmagean prepares meals onsite for the estate’s weddings and large corporate group events
in its 3,500-square-foot reception room. There’s even a guess-the-varietals and percentages contest through January 3 that yields the victor a case of wine to benefit the American Cancer Society, Gershon Bachus’s favorite charity.
Founded in 1989 by Carl Key, Keyways Vineyard & Winery is one of Temecula’s first wineries. Subsequent acquisition by Teri Pebley Delhamer also makes Keyways the only woman-owned winery in Southern California. Along with red and white wines, winemaker David Raffaele creates dessert and specialty wines, like Krystal ice wine. A favorite scenic wedding spot, the remodeled estate features a rustic, country lodge-inspired tasting room with wood-beamed ceilings, plaster walls, and a communal fireplace. Pizza dinners and Keyways wines are popular on weekends, but the tasting room piano comes alive with weekly live entertainment.
Leonesse Cellars, established by vintners Mike Rennie and Gary Winde, sits on twenty acres. Joel Reese, Hosting and Tour Director, provides visitors guided tastings, wine tours and wine and artisan cheese pairings. Refreshing pinot grigio is fermented in stainless steel tanks and chardonnay is aged in 100% French oak. Other wines include cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cinsaut port, dry muscat canelli, roussanne, syrah and a white merlot. They also feature a 2006 Meritage, two white Rhône blends, plus two dessert wines—cinsaut and late harvest muscat canelli.
Among Temecula’s newest wineries, Masia de Yabar Winery (“manor house”) offers a surprisingly broad spectrum of wines —from Bordeaux and Rhône varietals to muscat canelli and zinfandel. The Peruvian-Spanish ancestry of the winery inspired this large estate’s expansive courtyard dotted with palms and equestrian-
themed fountain. On weekend afternoons, Latin music by Diego Mondragon pairs sweetly with Masia de Yabar’s food-friendly tempranillo and the winery’s inspiring vistas.
While cooking instruction videos can be viewed for free on their winery website, there’s a lot going on at Stephen and Valerie Andrews’ Oak Mountain Winery, a five-year-old, ten-acre estate. Their Rhône varietals grow at an altitude of 2,800 feet, but once vented they are aged in a cellar cave below ground. There’s a new tasting room in the works, but already their large pavilion, gazebo, and catering services make the location ideal for weddings and special events.
The spirit of Fano, Italy came to Temecula when Federico Renzoni immigrated here in 1912. Today, great-great grandson Robert Renzoni keeps that spirit alive in the wines of Robert Renzoni Vineyards. Robert Renzoni began winemaking in 2004, when the family purchased their hilly, 12-acre Temecula vineyard property to fulfill his vision of making award-winning Italian varietal wines. Soon, a large stone villa will provide a luxurious backdrop for Robert Renzoni’s wines … and maybe even a few stories told by the proprietor himself.
continued on page 60
Just over an hour southeast of Los angeLes is temecuLa, where more than 30 wineries operate in a region covering
approximateLy 35,000 acres hosting vineyards, hiLLs and horses. the quaLity of the wines of temecuLa is proof
positive that their irrigated vines thrive in the granite-rich soiLs of this unique ava.
moonrise over the vineyard at Leonesse cellars © Peter Tellone - Photographer
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Cougar Vineyard & Winery
Italian varietal wines. Tuscan-style tasting
room and deli. Live music from 2-5 on
weekends.
Temecula: 951.491.0825
CougarVineyards.com
Jazz at the MercEnjoy live jazz and optimal acoustics on
Thursday nights in the beautifully restored
Mercantile building. Shows start at 7:30 pm.
Temecula: 866.653.8696
TemeculaTheater.org
Keyways Vineyard & Winery
Wine Down Fridays, MoKeyto Saturdays,
and Sangria Serenade Sundays.
Temecula: 877.keyways
KeywaysWine.com
Masia de Yabar WineryTasting Room offers live music with
Diego Mondragon on weekends.
Temecula: 951.303.3860
MasiaDeYabarWinery.com
Oak Mountain WineryTasting room, Bordeaux varietal wines,
live music on weekends from 1-5 pm.
Temecula: 951.699.9102
OakMountainWinery.com
WinerieS
danza del Sol WineryExpansive patio with beautiful views;
dog and equestrian-friendly.
Temecula: 951.302.6363
DanzadelSolWinery.com
Frangipani estate Winery
Specializing in red wines. Patio overlooks
30-year-old zinfandel vines; bocce lawn
and picnic area.
Temecula: 951.699.8845
FrangipaniWinery.com
gershon bachus Vintners
Wine tasting by appointment.
Limited production wines, spectacular
360-degree views.
Temecula: 877.458.8428
GershonBachus.com
leonesse CellarsHosted tastings and tours explore
the winemaking process.
Temecula: 951.302.7601
LeonesseCellars.com
robert renzoni Vineyards
Tasting room pours Bordeaux and
Italian varietal wines; picnic grounds
amid sweeping family vineyards.
Temecula: 951.302.8466
RobertRenzoniVineyards.com
lOCal Jazz MUSiCianS
Michael PauloContemporary jazz saxophonist.
MichaelPaulo.net
Jason WeberSmooth jazz saxophonist.
JasonWeber.net
darryl WilliamsBassist, songwriter, and producer.
DarrylWilliamsMusic.com
aCtiVitieS and eVentS
California dreamin’ balloon
and bi-Plane adventures
Float over Temecula’s wine country at
sunrise or sunset while sipping champagne.
Temecula: 800.373.3359
CaliforniaDreamin.com
the grapeline Wine Country Shuttle
A fleet of deluxe shuttles with friendly
hosts and thoughtfully arranged itineraries.
Temecula: 888.894.6379
GoGrape.com
Harvest Celebration barrel
tasting WeekendSelf-guided tour of 30 Temecula Valley
wineries, with food and wine samplings
at each location. Hosted by Temecula
Valley Winegrowers Association.
November 6-7, 2010 and March 5-6, 2011
Temecula: 800.801.9463.
TemeculaWines.org
Spring rod runAnnual event offers classic cars, Friday
Night Cruise, Saturday Show & Shine,
food, music, and vendors.
March 11-12, 2011
RodRunTemecula.com
lOdging
loma Vista bed & breakfast
Wine-themed guest rooms, secluded
hot tub, hearty breakfast.
Temecula: 877.676.7047
LomaVistaBB.com
temecula Creek innSpacious guest rooms, 27-hole
championship golf course, extensive
conference facilities.
Temecula: 877.517.1823
TemeculaCreekInn.com
reStaUrantS
Francesca’s italian Kitchen
Authentic Italian favorites.
Temecula: 951.303.3300
FrancescasItalianKitchen.com
gourmet italiaItalian cuisine, vast wine list, live
music Friday-Sunday.
Temecula: 951.676.9194
GourmetItaliaRestaurants.com
Vail ranch Steak HousePrime steaks, fresh seafood and chops.
Temecula: 951.694.1475
VailRanchSteakHouse.com
inFOrMatiOn
City of temeculaTemecula: 951.694.6444 or 800.Temecula
CityOfTemecula.org
temecula Valley Winegrowers association
Temecula: 800.801.9463
TemeculaWines.org
Our Temecula Valley Picks
Robert Renzoni Vineyards features an Italian-style wine portfolio.PHOTO: RK Green Studios
Cougar Winery wood cat
PHOTO: Miheco
Loma Vista
Bed and Breakfast
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BACKGROUND PHOTO: Bethel Heights Vineyards by Frank Barnett Photography
O ver thousands of years, repeated � ooding enabled the area now known as Oregon’s Willamette Valley to become agriculturally loaded with silty, volcanic-based loam that drenched and settled
throughout the area over time. Today, its landscape is a veritable collage of fruit orchards, crops, meadowlands, Christmas tree farms, and nursery stock.
The largest and oldest wine appellation in the state is Willamette Valley, stretching some 150 miles long and running 20 to 60 miles wide between the Coast Range to the west and the more formidable Cascade Range to the east. These features help permit the valley to experience a mild and rainy climate from fall through spring, while warming gently to become arid by summer. For pinot noir grapes, this creates harvest opportunities of exceptional quality.
Overall, more than 250 wineries are based in the Willamette Valley, the majority densely concentrated in the northern half, within shouting distance of Portland. Their vineyards are planted mainly with pinot noir vines, followed by pinot gris, chardonnay, merlot, and riesling. Each of the Valley’s six sub-appellations, Chehalem Mountains, Yamhill-Carlton District, Ribbon Ridge, Dundee Hills, McMinnville and the Eola-Amity Hills District, earned an AVA designation for its unique terroir while an East Willamette Valley region, though not an o� cial AVA, o� ers 16 more wineries across a less-traveled and more rustic landscape.
The Chehalem Mountains AVA, and sister sub-region, Ribbon Ridge, stretch over three counties. Tectonic uplifting characterizing their soils. Cool grape varietals, namely pinot noir and riesling, thrive in this diverse topography. Notable locations within the region are Parrett Mountain and, the highest point, Bald Peak.
North of McMinnville, the Yamhill-Carlton AVA resembles an inverted horseshoe. Over 1,200 acres of vineyards dot the two towns, where the North Yamhill River feeds orchards and vegetation. Protected by the Coast Range, Chehalem Mountains and Dundee Hills, well-draining sediment enhances an environment for total ripening and well-developed � avors. Dundee Hills is the most vine-concentrated sub-region of all, with approximately 1,700 acres of vineyards.
Situated in the Coast Range Foothills, the McMinnville AVA is best known for its south and east-facing slopes, where a mixture of soils and stone contribute to fully � avored pinot noirs. Nearer to the Willamette River is Eola Amity Hills. Varying degrees of ancient lava, marine rock and alluvial deposits plus dependable ocean breezes make for especially distinctive wine grapes here.
NOT UNLIKE LEWIS AND CLARK, WINEMAKERS HAVE DISCOVERED AND
CONQUERED THE OREGON WILDERNESS TO MASTER GRAPE GROWING IN A REGION
WHERE RAIN IS OFTEN MORE PROLIFIC THAN SUNSHINE.
BY MELISSA CHAVEZ
WINE REGION
Willame� e Valley
62
Willame� e ValleyBY MELISSA CHAVEZ
Willame� e ValleyBY MELISSA CHAVEZ
Willame� e Valley
Those seeking a peaceful oasis in the city will appreciate an afternoon in Lan Su Chinese Garden in Portland’s Old Town/Chinatown. This $12.8 million wonder features plants indigenous to China. Reasonably priced, the not-for-pro t gardens feature tours, exhibits, special events, and traditional Chinese music in the Teahouse most afternoons.
Five minutes from downtown Portland in Washington Park, the World Forestry Center o� ers family-friendly tours of permanent and revolving exhibits from $5 to $8. The 20,000-square-foot, two-story space focuses on the history, culture, and ecology of Northwestern forests that include hands-on demonstrations.
For storybook fans and the young-at-heart, an Enchanted Forest theme park in Turner, near Salem, serves up a 40-foot Big Timber Log Ride, English and Western villages, and walk-throughs of Humpty Dumpty, a Crooked House, and the Old Lady’s Shoe. If getting enough antioxidants in your diet is of critical concern, make a beeline for dark chocolate at the annual ChocolateFest in the Oregon Convention Center (Jan. 21-23). This palatable playground brings music, demonstrations, and feasts of chocolate and wine pairings, conveniently under one roof. (See “Events” at WorldForestry.org.)
Multnomah FallsPHOTO: Wolennium
CONTINUED ON PAGE 64
Of all of these sub-regions, just some of the communities that deserve closer inspection for wine tasting are Newberg, McMinnville (“Mac”), Woodburn, Amity, Silverton, Salem, Albany, Corvallis, Eugene, and Cottage Grove—all accessible by Interstate 5. Note to Californians: When in Oregon, slow down to a relative mosey of 55 MPH to avoid unscheduled chitchats with state troopers. Taking a leisurely pace also a� ords a look at some of Oregon’s collection of covered bridges, among America’s largest. (See Oregon.com/covered_bridges.)
Whichever wineries you visit, the trip will be an unforgettable one. Should any of your wine tour experiences happen to slip your mind, a glass of Willamette Valley pinot noir can be the perfect remedy toward helping them all return.
Portland area escapesA visit to Willamette Valley’s wine country
wouldn’t be complete without a side track here and there. For sophisticates and nature lover alike, there are many reasonably priced activities to do, with many in downtown
Portland. For art a cionados, Portland Center for the Performing Arts is easy to get to in the downtown at SW Broadway and Main Street. Afterward, check out South Park Seafood Grill & Wine Bar on Salmon Street. (Catch the massive brass-colored sh plowing through the corner restaurant’s brick façade, a can’t miss.). Getting around the city is easy, courtesy of three options of public transportation. Bicyclists can also learn all about Metro Portland’s bike culture and related events by visiting BikePortland.org.
Maples and pines at Portland’s
Japanese Garden PHOTO: Paul Schultz
PHOTO: Jen K.
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Celebrating Wine and Jazz
Jimmy Mak’s“One of the world’s top 100 places
to hear jazz!”
Portland: 503.295.6542
JimmyMaks.com
“notes from the Underground”
at Mission theaterFree series explores the Portland jazz
scene with improv music sets and breaks
for classic jazz films on the big screen.
Monthly, first Tuesdays, at 8:30 pm.
Portland: 503.223.4527
McMenamins.com
Produce row CaféFreshly renovated jam location
of jazz greats.
Portland: 503.232.8355
ProduceRowCafe.com
tony Starlight’s Supper Club
Tuesday-Sunday live entertainment,
from Prohibition-era hot jazz,
Big Band swing, to Vegas swank.
Portland: 503.517.8584
TonyStarlight.com
WinerieS
amity VineyardsPrestigious pinot noir producer
near McMinnville.
Amity/Eola Hills: 888.264.8966
AmityVineyards.com
Chehalem WinesSustainably-conscious estate specializes
in pinot noir and chardonnay.
Newberg: 503.537.5553
ChehalemWines.com
Cristom VineyardsEola Hills 65-acre estate crafts
Old World-style wines with grapes
from six distinct vineyards.
Salem: 503.375.3068
CristomWines.com
Ponzi VineyardsSustainable, four-level, gravity-flow
facility; historic cellar, customized tours.
Beaverton: 503.628.1227
PonziWines.com
lOCal Jazz MUSiCianS
black Swan Classic Jazz band
Dixieland, early jazz, ragtime, old-time gospel.
Bscjb.com
the bureau of Standards big band
Portland-based 19-piece ensemble. Big
band-era songs of the ’30s to ’50s.
BureauOfStandardsBigBand.com
Shoehorn (Michael Conley)
Tap-dancing saxophonist, I’ll tell you what!
ShoehornMusic.com
david Jacobs StrainRoots, Delta blues.
DavidJacobs-Strain.com
Mitzi zilkaJazz singer, songwriter and founder of
Portland Jazz Singers Foundation. From
jazz standards to Bossa Nova.
MitziZilka.com
aCtiVitieS and eVentS
Multnomah FallsA 620-foot cascading waterfall 30-minutes
from Portland. Five-minute walk from I-84.
SpectacularOregon.com
the Oregon gardenOver 20 specialty gardens, waterfalls,
reflection ponds, fountains, conifer
display, 400-year-old oak, Quilt Show:
January 28-29.
Silverton: 503.874.8100
OregonGarden.org
Portland art MuseumCollections, film displays, and themed
exhibits, from the Old West to
interactive tattoos.
Southwest Portland: 503.226.2811
PortlandArtMuseum.org
lOdging
black Walnut inn & Vineyard
Sumptuous nuevo-Tuscan suites in
Yamhill Valley, plus gourmet breakfasts.
Dundee: 866.429.4114
BlackWalnut-Inn.com
Wine Country FarmMcMinnville area hillside farm estate
overlooking Willamette Valley. Views,
gardens, horse trails.
Dayton: 800.261.3446
WineCountryFarm.com
Youngberg Hill Vineyards & inn
Highly-rated vineyard inn with
gorgeous valley views.
McMinnville: 888.657.8668
YoungbergHill.com
reStaUrantS
McMenamins roof top bar
Splendid rooftop views outside, glass
ceiling inside. Pub serves lunch and dinner.
McMinnville: 503.472.8427
McMenamins.com
Park KitchenPearl District’s former Zagat’s winner.
Portland: 503.223.7275
ParkKitchen.com
toro bravoFlavorful, award-winning Spanish-in-
spired tapas, wines. What is hip? This is.
Portland: 503.281.4464
ToroBravoPdx.com
Wilf’s restaurantLunch, dinner, and jazz.
Portland: 503.223.0070
WilfsRestaurant.com
inFOrMatiOn
travel OregonOne-stop shop for exploring Oregon State.
TravelOregon.com
Willamette Valley Visitors
associationInteractive trip planner; links to
winegrowers associations.
Albany: 866.548.5018
continued from page 63
Our Willamette Valley Picks
Jimmy mak’sportland skyline at duskpHoto: patrick campbell
the Bureau of Standards
Big Band
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