Wine Report 2009 Rhône Norte

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Northern Rhone ReportThe 2009 Vintage

web: j jbuckley.com

phone: 888.85.wines (888.859.4637)

emai l : [email protected]

twitter: @jjbuckleywines

7305 edgewater dr ive , su i te d | oakland, ca 94621


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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Top Wine Picks 3

Introduction 4-5

Appellations 6-12

The Grapes 13-14

Vintages 15-16

Negociants 17

Chapoutier 18

Guigal 19

Jaboulet

Delas 21

2009 Tasting Notes 22-36

Photographs 37

About This Report 38


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TOP NORTHERN RHONE PICKS

Favorite Wines of the Visit

JJ Buckleys Top Picks for 2009 Northern Rhone Reds

Chapoutier Ermitage Le Meal

Clusel-Roch Cote Rotie Les Grandes Place

Alain Graillot Crozes Hermitage (Best Value)

Domaine Remizieres Hermitage Cuve Emilie

Marc Sorrell Hermitage Greal

JJ Buckleys Top Picks for 2009 Northern Rhone Whites

Chapoutier Ermitage Blanc LErmite

Delas Condrieu Clos Boucher

Marc Sorrell Hermitage Blanc Rocoules


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NORTHERN RHONE

The Mystery Spot

Like so many worthwhile pursuits in

life, understanding the northern Rhone

can be quite a mystery. Grapes have

been growing continuously in the hills

surrounding the small towns of Ampuis

and Tain since Roman times. Centuries

later, the wines of Hermitage were so

popular they commanded higher prices

than Bordeaux and were part of Thomas

Jefferson's cellar. It wasnt that much

later when wines from obscure regions

like Condrieu and St. Peray were found

in the best salons and restaurants of

Paris.

However, troubles arose in the first half

of the 20th century as the appellations of

the northern Rhone were among the

first to deal with the great devastation

from phylloxera as well as the horrific

economic conditions that particularly

affected the north after World War I.

But as the region's wines regained their

international markets, prices rosefor

both the wine and landand some

vineyards and appellations were ex-

panded to meet the increased demand.

The revision of appellation boundaries

has not been without repercussions.

New vines have been planted as much

for ease of growing and harvesting as

for making wines of quality. Steep hills

and slopes have historically grown the

best fruit, but it is an expensive proposi-

tion to tackle, as is maintaining those

sites once the vines take root. New vine-

yards on fertile soils at the foot of the

slopes may be easier to farm, but theywill produce a different standard of

grapes than hillside plantings. At a time

when the market looks for clearly

understood wines, those regions risk

ruining carefully nurtured standards of

quality that capture the essence of these

appellations as expressed by old vine

and hillside cuves.

While Rhone wines in their entirety are

relatively popular today, the wines of

the north are inherently less understoodand less promoted than their friends to

the south. Today, Chateauneuf du Pape

and its neighbors have attracted the

fancy of the American consumer. Allur-

ing in their ease of pronunciation and

their approachability as young wines,

the southern Rhone appellations have

come to define the Rhone Valley in the

minds of many consumers.

A revealing indication of the differences

between the two sections can be found

in Robert Parker's writings. A long-time

enthusiast and promoter of Rhone

wines, his articles about the southern

Rhone outnumber northern Rhone texts

3 to 1. Given Parker's preference for

plush and luxurious textures, that ratio

makes sense. But younger writers are

short changing the northern Rhone, as

well. The Rhone Report, a website runby Jeb Dunnuck, is almost exclusively

dominated with writing focused on

Chateauneuf du Pape.


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NORTHERN RHONE

A River Runs Through It

There is a tangible difference between

the northern and southern Rhone. For

one, much more land is under vine in

the south than the north. Accordingly,

many more wines from the southern

Rhone appellations make their way to

our shelves and wine lists. In addition,

the style of these wines are more acces-

sible to consumers' palates with theirplush textures, a striking contrast to the

firm and compact structures found in

areas like Cornas or Hermitage. Finally,

the prices for wines from the northern

Rhone are not as affordable as the ones

commanded by their southern neigh-

bors.

Part of what separates the north from

the south can be attributed to geogra-

phy. Driving through vineyards along

the northern reaches of the Rhone River,hills rise steeply to the east and west as

you wind your way south through the

small appellations. These are expensive

vineyards to maintain! As you leave the

southernmost region of St. Peray, the

narrow valley begins to broaden into

the soft, rolling hills and plains of the

southern Rhone where farming is easier

and less costly.

The differences dont stop at appearance

as weather conditions can vary consid-

erably. The change in temperature can

be noticed immediately as the north's

continental climate gives way to the

Mediterranean conditions that dominate

the south. In turn, differing weather

patterns impact their respective grow-

ing conditions. For instance, 2002 sawtorrential downpours basically wipe out

the vintage in Chateauneuf du Pape

while the wines of the north were sal-

vaged due to considerably less rainfall

and the drainage benefits that come

from hillside plantings. The cooler tem-

peratures of the north can also benefit

wines by providing grapes with the

natural acidity that brings elegance and

finesse to what could be overripe wine

expressions.

When it comes to the final product, the

fortunes of the northern Rhone are de-

pendent on the success of the syrah

grape itself. Though some appellations

allow white grapes to be blended at the

time of fermentation, the trend in the

northern Rhone is for wines to increas-

ingly be based on 100% syrah. The

southern Rhone, however, works with

grenache as the dominant grape. Any

missteps that might occur in the vine-

yard or cellar can be adjusted with a bit

more mourvedre or syrah.

Today, northern Rhone winemakers

must contend with the current malaise

about syrah that affects many markets,

especially in America. The variety has

come under criticism from both critics

and sommeliers, resulting in stagnant

sales. That is quite unfortunate, as syrah

is a noble grape that clearly expresses

the soils and growing conditions of its

specific terroir.

Clearly the wines of the northern Rhone

will benefit from both their diversity

and potential. The differences among

appellations, indeed, the differences

among climats within an appellation, areoften clear to see and understand. The

unique attributes and styles found

among appellations and lieu-dits should

be highlighted and celebrated. It is the

diversity of styles that will make syrah

exciting again as each expression finds

its audience and market. In that respect,

the future for the wines of the northern

Rhone looks bright.


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APPELLATIONS of the NORTHERN RHONE

Cote RotieCote Rotie has its own fame and pres-

tige yet has long labored in the shadow

of the wines from Hermitage. Both of

these regions share a common thread:

steep hillsides from which vines and

pickers cling for dear life, winemaking

that goes back to ancient Roman times

and a history of both commercial suc-

cess and difficulty. But what set Her-

mitage apart was its proximity to the

town of Tain, which acted as the home

to the regions negociantsthe financial

lifeblood of the northern Rhone. Not

only did this allow Hermitage wines to

get more money than Cote Rotie over

the centuries, but as Rhone wines lost

their commercial allure, Cote Rotie suf-

fered the most. Despite negociants such

as Chapoutier and Jaboulet owning sig-

nificant acreage in Cote Rotie, it was not

until the 1980s that the efforts of the

Guigal family brought internationalrecognition to the wines of Cote Rotie.

Today, the Guigals vinify over a third of

the grapes grown in the appellation.

The vineyards of the appellation are

comprised of a number of climats that

have subtle yet significant differences.

The most famous of these sites are the

vineyards of Cote Blonde and Cote

Brune, which for many years formed the

historical foundation for Cote Rotie

wines. Later, sites such as La Landonneand La Turque gained notoriety when

their fruit was bottled individually by

Guigal.

Today, with an upsurge in bottlings

from small growers and new vineyards

being planted, the names of individual

lieu-dits are increasingly finding them-

selves on Cote Rotie labels. We can

expect certain sites to gain a greater

reputation for growing quality fruit as

each vineyards specific qualities are

better understood in the coming years.

As the northernmost appellation in the

northern Rhone, the wines from Cote

Rotie typically have more finesse and

fragrance compared to the robust and

structured wines from Hermitage. The

fruit here is high-toned, floral and pure-ly expressed with tannins subsumed by

the concentrated fruit. In addition, the

tannins are more finely grained and

fewer in quantity. Much of this is due to

the slightly cooler temperatures found

in Cote Rotie than in the south.

Viognier is allowed to be grown in Cote

Rotie but only for blending with syrah.

AOC regulations permit up to 20%

viognier to be added only at the time of

crushing. Wineries rarely use the fullamount as the influence of the viognier

can be quite pronounced at levels above

10%, so the practice is to add only 5%

viognier to the blend, if any.

Unlike its more famous neighbor to the

south, the area under vine in Cote Rotie

has expanded considerably as the for-

tunes of the appellation have grown. In

the last 40 years, the acreage in Cote

Rotie has tripled to some 700 acres as

demand for Rhone wines expanded,

with the 1990s seeing most of the new

plantings. Growth has flattened out but

it will become imperative to know each

wine's fruit sources as grapes from older

vines will see increased demand and

prices.

Map of the Northern Rhone Valley


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APPELLATIONS

Condrieu and Chateau GrilletViognier is the raison d'etre for these two

appellations just down the Rhone Valley

from Cote Rotie. In the 19th century,

Condrieu was all the rage in Paris,

prized for the grapes aromatic qualities.

Then due to a combination of changing

tastes in wine and the poor economic

conditions which plagued the northern

Rhone the first half of the 20th century,

viognier almost became extinct. Only 35

acres of planted vineyards were located

in Condrieu in 1971, and there were

none planted elsewhere. Its a far cry

from today when viognier can be found

growing in both hemispheres, on a mul-

titude of store shelves and on tables in

restaurants around the world.

The Condrieu AOC was formalized in

1940 with 500 acres of land eligible for

planting. As of 2010, only 450 acres

were under vine, but this represents a

ten-fold increase in acreage since the

early '70s. The vines are planted on

steep hillsides, approaching gradients of

up to 50%, and scattered among seven

different villages that populate the west-

ern side of the Rhone River valley be-

tween Cote Rotie and St. Joseph.

As noted later on page 14, viognier is a

grape that must be harvested at full

ripeness and maturity to capture its

exotic nature. Once harvested, the style

of wine is largely the result of wine-

makers preferences and decisions.

Increasingly, most Condrieus are seeing

some oak maturation to add roundness

and texture, usually in larger vessels. In

addition to the prevailing drier styled

wines, a number of wineries make

sweeter wines and the region even has a

history of making sparkling versions.

The sugars of the sweeter wines are

usually concentrated through late pick-

ing or by drying in the cellar.

Chateau Grillet, which only grows viog-

nier, is the sole French appellation com-

prised of just one wine estate and is also

the smallest AOC in the country. Com-prised of a little less than 10 acres, the

estate has been under the same family

ownership since the early 1800s. At that

time, it boasted an international reputa-

tion with distribution throughout Eu-

rope. Over the decades, the vineyard

was expanded to the point where it now

produces twice as much wine as it did

in the early 1970s, when the Rhone

renaissance began in earnest.

The vineyards are planted on the hills ofa natural south-facing amphitheater,

perfect for ripening fruit. Stylistically,

the flavor profiles are leaner and more

compact than the voluptuous examples

often found in Condrieu. A steely

framework and mineral-laden fruit fla-

vors demand cellaring to show their

best.

Over the past decades, the property has

frequently been viewed as a perennial

underachiever whose wines do not re-

call its past historical glamour or the

perceived status as a great wine given

its unique appellation. This may change

in the very near future, as the property

was sold in March 2011 to French bil-

lionaire and Chateau Latour owner,

Franois Pinault.


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APPELLATIONS

St. Josephthe soils become less fertile creating

wines that are more angular, tannic and

spicy.

The area under vine in 2010 is 11 times

its original limit. 25 villages are now

part of the appellation and up to 7400

acres are eligible for AOC certification,

though just over 3000 acres are current-

ly planted. As more St. Joseph is pro-

duced and makes its way to the globalmarket, the location of each estate's fruit

will become significant in separating

superior examples of St. Joseph from

competent wines.

St. Joseph is predominantly known for

its red wine, based on the syrah grape

that dominates over 90% of the produc-

tion in the area. The appellation's regu-

lations were adjusted in 1979 to allow

for the addition of up to 10% white

grapes to the cuve, as in Hermitage orCote Rotie. The practice, however, is to

avoid blending in order to preserve the

syrah identity. Most wineries destem

and age in large barriques and demi-

muids.

White St. Joseph wines are blends of

marsanne and roussanne in varying

proportions. Given the richer soils, the

whites of St. Joseph can have more tex-

ture and richness than superior sites like

Hermitage. The more obvious style of

St. Joseph whites makes them suitable

for earlier drinking rather than cellar-

ing. Compared to the whites of St. Peray

which come from warmer growing con-

ditions, St. Joseph wines have more def-

inition and focus along with a sense of

freshness.

Depending on how one measures it, the

St. Joseph AOC is among the largest

appellations of the northern Rhone.

Stretching almost 40 miles from its

northernmost sites near Condrieu to its

southern boundary near Cornas, St.

Joseph (along with Crozes Hermitage)

represents the workhorse of the north

producing large quantities of value-

oriented examples of syrah. Scattered

along the western flats, slopes and hills

of the Rhone River, a series of small

villages with different aspects and expo-

sures create a mosaic of wine styles.

Unlike the many appellations that were

delineated in the 1930s, St. Joseph's

AOC regulations were formulated in

1956. At the time, just six villages com-

prised the foundation of St. Joseph. The

original appellation was centered on

sites surrounding the town of Tournon,

a small village across the Rhone River

from Tain. Like Tain, commerce in

Tournon was based upon the local wine

industry and included the cellars of a

number of negociants. These vineyard

sites set the historic standard of quality

for St. Joseph that continues today with

their old vines planted on steeply

sloped granite soils.

Later the authorities considerably ex-

panded the boundaries of the appella-tion. The area eligible for AOC certifica-

tion in 1967 was land located to the

north and south of Tournon. This action

brought in land that had no history of

grapegrowing and expanded the variety

of soils and aspects eligible for AOC

status. In the south, the richer soils and

warmer climes allow for a riper, fruitier

syrah style. Going north towards Cote

Rotie, the temperatures cool down and


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APPELLATIONS

Crozes HermitageLocated on slopes and small hills on the

eastern side of the river, Crozes Her-

mitage produces exuberant and classic

expressions of syrah. Crozes is a con-

sistent source of the northern Rhone's

best values and some examples fre-

quently rival wines from the more fa-

mous appellations of Hermitage and

Cote Rotie. The wines of Crozes Her-

mitage, along with those of St. Joseph,

are among the most widely distributed

of the northern Rhone.

Like many of its neighbors, the appella-

tion was organized in 1937 with the area

allowed under vine vastly expanded in

1952. This growth formed the founda-

tion of the region's increased popularity

and production over the following dec-

ades. Today, the vineyards of Crozes

Hermitage comprise over half of the

6000 acres that make up the northern

Rhone.

Prior to the amendment to the AOC

regulations, wines were generally sold

to negociants to be blended away in-

stead of being bottled and labeled under

the Crozes Hermitage name. Since there

was little demand for wines from Croz-

es Hermitage, many growers diversified

their agricultural interests and took ad-

vantage of the natural growing condi-

tions that allowed cherries and apricotsto thrive alongside their vineyards. Con-

sequently, most vineyards were tended

by farmers as there were few winemak-

ing specialists in the region.

Crozes Hermitage is home to about

eleven villages whose vineyards reflect

subtle differences in soil and exposure

that can be found in the district. The

original Crozes climats were confined to

the east of the Hermitage hill, but the

expansion took in vineyards from vil-

lages northwest of Tain, land littered

with glacial and alluvial deposits from

the Rhone River. Here the vines share a

closer connection to what is made in

Hermitage. The soils are poor and the

temperatures a bit cooler which makes

it tougher for grapes to grow. Therefore,

the syrah from the newer area tends to

have less generous fruit textures, more

structured quality and firmer tannins,

which increases ageability as well.

The other expansion occurred to the

south and east of Tain where the soils

are richer and allow the fruit to ripen

easily. With less of a monoculture here

as grapevines mingled with other crops,

the relatively flat plots of land made it

easy to work the vineyards with trac-

tors, helping to minimize costs. The

resulting wines have rich, plush tex-

tures along with low acidity and tan-

nins. These villages are the source of

much of the Crozes Hermitage that has

made these wines so popular today.

Crozes Hermitage also produces whitewines, which vary in style depending

on fermentation techniques and subre-

gional differences more than grape se-

lection. Marsanne and roussanne are the

primary grapes associated with white

wine production in the region while the

AOC regulations also allow wineries to

add up to 15% of these varietals into

their syrah-based cuves.

The local co-operative, the Cave de Tain

-L'Hermitage, is one of the unique play-

ers in Crozes Hermitage. The members

own prestigious sites in appellations like

Hermitage as well as places like St. Per-

ay and Cornas. The backbone of the co-

ops production comes from the CrozesHermitage, though, where they control

over 50% of the wines made in the ap-

pellation. The famous negociant Paul

Jaboulet also makes a large amount of

Crozes Hermitage as well. As previous-

ly noted, the fact that most grapegrow-

ers were also involved in other forms of

farming meant that they were much

more likely to just sell their fruit rather

than make their own wine so the co-ops

served a useful function for the regions

growers.

Nevertheless, much like St. Joseph, the

neighbor across the river, the future of

Crozes Hermitage will be defined by the

new small estates that have sprung up

over the past few decades. Since the

considerable variation of styles is based

upon vineyard site location and yields

(determined by the grower's pursuit of

quality or quantity), it will become in-

creasingly imperative to know the loca-tion of each winery's vineyards as their

quality levels become more defined and

understood.


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APPELLATIONS

HermitageOf all the regions in the northern Rhone,

the wines from the hill of Hermitage

with their long and storied historyrise

above the rest of the appellations, both

literally and figuratively. With the

Rhone River wrapping around the vine-

yard-laced hillside and its centuries-old

reputation as a premium winemaking

district, the wines of Hermitage are jus-

tifiably the most recognized of the

northern Rhone.

References to Hermitage wines can be

found in ancient Roman texts and more

recent history links it to America via

Thomas Jefferson, who frequently wrote

about both its red and white wines in

his journals and correspondence. Dur-

ing the 1700s and for a century later,

prices for Hermitage rivaled those of the

top Bordeaux. In fact, first growths were

known to add some Hermitage, prized

for its power and color, to increase the

concentration of their base wine.

The boundaries of Hermitage were codi-

fied when the AOC regulations were

prepared in 1937. While the area under

vine in Cote Rotie has tripled over the

past 40 years, the geography of Her-

mitage has made it impossible to ex-

pand the region. Today there are some

350 acres under vine, an amount that

has not varied considerably for manydecades.

Grapes on the Hermitage hill are grown

on the south-facing folds, perfectly

poised to capture the heat and rays from

the summer sun. The soils are mostly

granite based with very little topsoil to

provide the struggling vines with nutri-

ents to ripen their fruit. Hermitage reds

are focused and elegant with an empha-

sis on structure over generosity of fruit,

which means they require and repay

cellaring. As is common with vineyards

on hills and steep slopes, the vineyards

at the bottom of the hill provide lush

textures while the sites at the top are

leaner, more tannic and structured.

Hermitage has recently been at a bit of a

crossroads with two theories as to how

wine should be made. One approach isblending the varied sites to create a sin-

gle example of what the hill can offer.

This style if best exemplified by Jean-

Luis Chave who owns vines in nine of

the 18 climats that comprise Hermitage.

Chave's Hermitage strives to represent

the entire slope with each site contrib-

uting an essential part to the assemblage.

A more recent interpretation has been

popularized by Michel Chapoutier,

whose single-site whites and reds fromthe hill have gained much international

praise and recognition. Many critics

think that Michel followed the example

of the Guigal's "LaLas", the three single-

site Cote Rotie cuves that catapulted

that winery to fame. Be that as it may,

Chapoutier's "Seleccion Parcillieres"

have perfectly highlighted the subtle yet

marked differences that exist among the

varied climats of the Hermitage hill.

Chave's approach will be difficult to

replicate as almost three-quarters of

Hermitage is owned by Chapoutier,

Delas, Jaboulet and the Tain Coopera-

tive. It will be a struggle for smaller

growers that decide to make their own

wines to get access to the cross-section

of sites that can replicate Chave's philos-

ophy or vineyard holdings.

Like Cote Rotie, white grapes are al-

lowed to be added to Hermitage syrah

as long as they are added as fermenta-

tion starts. Blended to lighten the wine

and provide earlier drinkability, up to

15% marsanne and/or roussanne can be

added according to the AOC regulations

but few wineries take advantage of

them. This means the wines of Her-

mitage tend to be follow a more mascu-

line, powerful and structured wine

style. Most of the negociants tend to

destem their syrah, whole bunches re-

main a selected practice of smaller

growers and their domaines.

For the small amount of Hermitage

white wines that are made, marsanne is

the predominant white grape with small

amounts of roussanne also located in the

appellation. The marsanne based wines

are compact and focused as compared

with the more lush examples from sites

on richer soils close to the river or fur-

ther south. The more reserved style

greatly repays cellaring. Hermitage

whites show potential for longer aging

than its neighboring appellations.


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APPELLATIONS

Cornas and St. PerayOne of the smallest AOCs in the Rhone,

records indicate religious orders made

wine in Cornas around the year 1000.

But very little is known about produc-

tion until the 19th century when negoci-

ants began selling wine from here along

with Cote Rotie and Hermitage. At that

time, Cornas fetched much lower prices

(a situation that continues today).

Up until the 1960s, most Cornas wasmade and sold by local negociants, alt-

hough Jaboulet and Delas dabbled in

the region a bit. Given the lack of a mar-

ket for Cornas, few wineries bottled

their own wines. Most was sold and

consumed locally and it wasnt until the

1980s that a vibrant export market start-

ed to develop. With only 60 or so pro-

ducers making wine today, Cornas re-

mains the most obscure AOC in the

northern Rhone.

When tasted against a lineup of wines

from other northern Rhone appellations,

Cornas displays a style that is quite

noticeable. Many of the wines from so-

called "second tier" appellations, espe-

cially Crozes Hermitage and St. Joseph,

show effusive and open aromatics with

generous palate profiles, whereas

Cornas wines are quite the opposite

displaying restrained, reticent bouquets

and a dense, tannic presence on the pal-ate. Seductive and approachable are

words that are rarely employed when

speaking of Cornas, as these wines are

frequently rustic with rougher textures

and earthy flavors not normally found

up north. The palates are foursquare

and compact with a sense of firmness

and structure the dominant qualities of

the appellation's wines.

Cornas is made with 100% syrah, no

white grapes are used either for blend-

ing or to create a Cornas blanc. One of

the most southern appellations in the

northern Rhone, there are only 220 acres

under vine. The underlying soils are

laced with granite, which contributes to

the strong tannic structure found in

many examples from the appellation.

The region benefits from the hills to the

north, protecting vineyards from the

effects of the mistral winds. This assists

ripening and allows grapes to achieve

higher sugars. Because of the warmth

that comes from this unique micro-

climate, it is usually the first of the

northern Rhone regions to harvest fruit.

A number of lieu-dits are spread

throughout the compact area but so far

theyve had little impact on a better un-

derstanding of the vineyards in Cornas.

Unlike the AOCs to the north, only a

few Cornas winemakers are highlight-

ing these differences in finished wines.

One might best be able to discern the

distinctions among the various climats

when sampling in the cellars of a Cor-

nas specialist. Obtaining any significant

insight about Cornas today must come

from placing its wines in the parade of

others from the northern Rhone, as op-

posed to looking at variations within the

appellation.

The southernmost growing region of the

northern Rhone is St. Peray, another rare

AOC exclusively limited to white

grapes. In this case, wineries are al-

lowed to produce both still and spar-

kling wines from the regions permitted

varietiesmarsanne and roussanne.

About 60% of the wine produced is still

wine, the remainder is sparkling and is

required to be made in the methode

champenoise process. With only 150 acres

of planted grapes, St. Peray is quite

small. Given its focus and modest size,

wines from the region seldom come to

American shores.

In the early 19th century, the sparkling

wines of St. Peray gained a bit of a repu-

tation outside the region as they became

popular among the definers of taste at

the time. But like its neighbor Cornas,

most of these wines were sold through a

system of local negociants and con-

sumed locally. There are only a handful

of estates producing and bottling their

own wines today with the rest made by

negociants such as Jaboulet, Delas and

the Tain Co-operative.

The still wines of St. Peray are blends of

marsanne with varying amounts of

roussanne. The trend lately has been to

age St. Perays in wood for moderate

amounts of time. The sparkling winesare usually made with marsanne, as

roussanne doesnt seem to work well as

part of a bubbly blend. St. Peray fizz

must be made in the methode chapenpoise

which also includes using champagne

yeast for fermentation and traditional

cellar aging and disgorgement practices.


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APPELLATIONS

The Final Frontiers: Other AppellationsThe northern Rhone is home to a num-

ber of other smaller appellations that

will occasionally appear on shelves and

wine lists with a more eclectic focus.

These regions include Cotes du Rhone

Brezeme, Chatillon-en Diois, and

Clairette de Die. Many of the traditional

red and white grapes are grown but

there are some offbeat wines to be

found as well including sweet sparkling

wines made from the obscure clairette

varietal.

Of most interest, however, are the vin de

pays wines that are becoming more

prevalent. As demand for northern

Rhone wines has increased, the prices

for established vineyards have risen as

AOC regulations often restrict the abil-

ity to plant new vines. In addition, the

prices for wines have risen so that there

is little affordable wine that captures the

unique aromas and flavors of the north-

ern Rhone.

As a result, a number of top producers,

especially some from Cote Rotie and

Condrieu, are making wines in the cate-

gory called vins de pays des collines

rhodaniennes. These are usually made

from syrah or viognier and are an in-

creasingly useful source of well priced

wines. The grapes are sourced from

newer plantings outside the Cote Rotie

or Condrieu boundaries or contain

wines that have been declassified due to

stylistic concerns or as an outlet for

younger vines. Cote Rotie producers

such as Chapoutier, Jamet and Jasmin

along with viognier specialists Yves

Cuilleron and Georges Vernay are

among those making excellent rendi-

tions of viognier and syrah that bring

the better appellations to mind.


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13

THE GRAPES

Building BlocksSyrah

Where the southern Rhone is home to a

broad range of red varietals that are

allowed to be grown, the northern

Rhone is home to only one: syrah. It is

the backbone of all AOCs that make red

wine. The final product is usually 100%

syrah or blended with viognier (in the

case of Cote Rotie) or with marsanne (in

Hermitage). Planted in the region sinceRoman times, it was thought for a time

that the grape might be able to claim

Persian ancestry. However, recent DNA

studies have repudiated that theory as

its lineage can be traced to other rare

French varietals.

Knocking syrah has become fashionable

lately, and indeed, the grape isnt win-

ning any popularity contests. But its

rich history in the northern Rhone could

easily make other rookie varietals envi-

ous! Plus, the relative ease in growing

and producing syrah makes it desirable

for winemakers and growers. But most

importantly, syrah deserves its place as

one of the wine world's most noble

grapes because the variety transmits its

terroir as clearly as pinot noir or ries-

ling. The difference between Cote Rotie

and Cornas is about as clear as syrah

from the Sonoma Coast is from Paso

Roble, which makes it easy for consum-ers and wine professionals to under-

stand.

Syrah's ability to reflect the terroir of

each appellation was explained in detail

earlier in this report where the northern

Rhone's growing regions were dis-

cussed. In general, syrah grown on the

slopes of the Rhone will have a linear

and compact flavor profile with a fair

amount of tannin and structure on the

finish. As the area under vine expands

to include richer soils on flatter surfaces

close to the river, as in Crozes Her-

mitage and St. Joseph, the syrah takes

on plusher textures and a broader palate

presence without the firmer qualities

coming from hillside fruit.

The flavors of northern Rhone syrah are

particularly affected by the region's rela-

tively cooler temperatures. Cool climate

syrah shows pronounced aromas of

black or white pepper with fresh acid

levels and a focused palate presence,

qualities rarely found in the southern

Rhone. With slightly warmer tempera-

tures, the fruit moves past peppery

notes towards aromas of black olives,

violets, darker fruits and bacon meat.

These wines will show slightly broader

textures but not the depth, power and

structure that can be found in regions

like Paso Robles or McLaren Vale. The

stylistic equivalents of northern Rhone

syrah would be closer to Santa Barbara,

Waiheke Island in New Zealand andAustralia's Yarra Valley.

Roussanne

Roussanne also exists throughout the

Rhone Valley but is rarely bottled by

itself and instead blended with mar-

sanne to formulate a more complete

wine. A perfect partnership, roussanne is

prized for its acidity and high-toned fruit

qualities and marries well with mar-

sanne, a grape that needs acid and a bit

of lift on the nose and palate.

Like viognier, roussanne is susceptible to

a number of viticultural problems, such

as mildew and poor yields, which makes

it a varietal that is scarcely found on the

shelves of retail shops. It is picked at the

peak of ripeness to capture the vibrant

fruit flavors and acidity that creates the

demand for this grape. Because of its

focus and linear presence, only small

portions of the grape are blended with

marsanne, usually about a third or less

or, in rare circumstances, in equal pro-

portions.


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14

THE GRAPES

Building BlocksViognier

Viognier is one of the most unique vari-

etals grown in the northern Rhone or in

the world, for that matter. As recently as

1971, though, it was nearing extinction

with only 35 acres planted in the appel-

lation of Condrieu. Today it so common

and well known it is incredible to think

that one small plot transformed into a

globally recognized varietal.

In the northern Rhone, viognier is only

grown in Condrieu and the one-winery

AOC of Chateau Grillet. The northern

reaches of the valley are well suited to

growing the variety as the hills to the

north protect vineyards from the effects

of the mistral winds. In addition, the

poor, infertile soils are particularly well-

suited to growing viognier as the re-

gions cooler temperatures act to pro-

long the ripening process and preservethe needed acidity.

Though it can present its own set of

problems in the cellar, viognier is partic-

ularly difficult to grow, as it is prone to

poor flowering, which results in low

yields, and is susceptible to a number of

diseases.

Picking can also be a nuisance as bees

and wasps find the grape's pungent

aromatics very attractive. To fully cap-

ture the exotic flavors and aromas that

are the signature of great viognier, it is

important to harvest the fruit when it is

fully ripe.

Growers must be on guard to not pick

too late to prevent the wine from getting

too fat and flabby. Viognier can get pon-derous and lack verve as the acidity

drops at higher sugar levels. The

grapes ability to ripen easily allows

producers to make sweet, late harvest

versions that are delicious, though quite

rare.

Viognier's unique role in the northern

Rhone lies not in its role as a white wine

but as a blending component with syrah

in Cote Rotie. The powerful intensity

and structure that comes from growingsyrah on the hot slopes above the town

of Ampuis creates strong tannins and a

rather mean profile. Cote Rotie regula-

tions promulgated by the AOC allow

for 20% viognier to be blended with the

syrah, though generally no more than

10% is ever added. The grapes are usu-

ally co-fermented which actually fixes

the red pigments from the syrah grapes

creating a deeper, darker color. And

viognier gives the nose a bit of lift and

the high-toned qualities that provideseductive and alluring qualities to the

bouquet.

Marsanne

While viognier is scarce, marsanne serves

as the backbone of white wine produc-

tion in the north. Most of the time, espe-

cially in Crozes Hermitage and St. Jo-

seph, you'll find it blended with a bit of

roussanne, usually around 20% but occa-

sionally in equal proportions. Marsanne

finds its purest expression in the hills of

Hermitage when it is unblended. Anoth-er unblended yet more commercial style

can be found in the southern reaches of

the northern Rhone, especially in St. Per-

ay where it is the foundation of both still

and sparkling wines. The grape is not

grown in Chateauneuf du Pape but is

permitted in other appellations in the

southern Rhone. Globally, a few places in

California specialize in the grape but

marsanne's largest presence can be found

in vineyards just north of Melbourne,

Australia that are also home to the oldestvines on the planet.

Marsanne is another problematic varie-

tal. If overcropped or planted in areas

where ripeness is hard to achieve, mar-

sanne tends to become bland. Naturally

low in acidity and lacking pronounced

and expressive fruit flavors, winemakers

must be careful to preserve its delicate

varietal characters and avoid making a

neutral wine. In the best examples, how-

ever, flavors of banana and white melon

are subtle and the medium-weighted

textures offer a touch of creaminess.


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15

VINTAGES 2001-2010 in the NORTHERN RHONE

2010 As we tasted through the 2009s in both tank and bottle, many winemakers made sure to pour barrel samples of the 2010s.

While they were full of praise for the '09s, they showed particular enthusiasm for the 2010 vintage which displayed pristine and fo-

cused flavors, fresh acidity and persistent flavors on a long finish. They look to be quite exciting, cellar-worthy wines.

2009 The 2009s have the good fortune to be approachable in style. Not overly ripe or extracted, they have a supple fruit presence

that reminds one of youthful burgundy. At the same time, there's enough acidity to add freshness and enliven the wines. They should

maintain a core of pure fruit throughout their aging process.

2008 Consumers need to be very selective in purchasing reds from 2008 because of the considerable rains during the growing sea-

son, especially right before harvest (the most rain in the north for over 40 years). The wet weather caused disease pressures, which

required strict attention at the sorting table.

2007 The 2007 reds are considered quite good, thanks to the upfront fruit qualities that came from the warmer summer tempera-

tures. Nevertheless, the fruit flavors are not as overt or forward as what wineries obtained in the southern Rhone. But thanks to the

traditional acidity from growing fruit in the cooler northern climes, there is freshness and vibrancy to the palate.

2006 Cooler temperatures resulted in wines that are not as showy. The reds from 2006 are better suited for the cellar and will be a

source of understated and classically structured wines.

2005 Ranks up there with some of the best vintages of the new century with loads of concentrated fruit and acidity along with

substantial tannins. These wines will cellar well and the structural nature of this harvest means they will be firm wines with good

backbone.

The purpose of JJ Buckley's recent trip to the northern Rhone was to get a handle on the 2009 vintage, heralded by many

American wine critics as one of the regions better years in quite some time. But the definition of a good vintage is rela-

tive when discussing the regions that make up the northern Rhone.

When visiting, it is easy to see the subtle differences within the north itself, as well as the more substantial matters

that separate the growing regions of the north from the south. Some can be easily seen in the region's geographythe

narrow valley of the north sliced by the Rhone River with vineyards clinging to hillsides as compared to the softer,

rolling plateaus of the south. Shifts in climate can also be noticed when traveling south as the cooler temperatures of

the north suddenly give way to warmer climes the moment you pass St. Peray and Cornas.

Given the relative scarcity of wines from the north as compared to the more prolific Chateauneuf du Papes and otherRhones from the south, it's not always easy to discern accurate vintage assessments for the northern regions. It is, how-

ever, good to keep in mind that given these differences and disparities, a good vintage in the south may not mean it will

be a good one in the north.


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16

VINTAGES 2001-2010continued2004 As in the south, the moderate conditions created classic, balanced wines in both the north and south. Not showy or overt,

these wines will reward short term cellaring and are perfect for those who want to avoid the riper expressions that result from warm-

er growing conditions.

2003 The reputation of 2003 is closely tied to the extreme heat that caused difficult growing conditions throughout the country, as

well as a number of deaths across France. The drought-resistant Rhone varietals fared best since their deep roots provided access to

water, while the north's cooler temperatures provided grapes with the acidity necessary to make lively wines that avoided ove r-

ripeness. These are powerful and concentrated wines that will age.

2002 Another year where poor weather in the southern Rhone affected the market's perception of the entire Rhone Valley except

the north did not get the torrential rains and flooding which ruined the harvest in areas like Gigondas and Chateauneuf du Pape.Most regions in the north saw less rainfall than the south and good drainage ensured there were few washouts. The mistral winds

came after the rains but rot and mildew persisted, causing many growers to pick early.

2001 Generally considered one of the best vintages of the decade, 2001 gets lost in the shuffle a bit today, thanks to the acclaim

generated by the 2005 and 2009 wines. The temperatures were generally cool, allowing for a slower growing season, which in turn

preserved the wines structural components and reduced the impression of fat fruitiness. It also secured acidity and maintain ed fresh-

ness in the final wines. The best examples should just be waking from their slumber.


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17

THE NEGOCIANTS

Promoting This Business Called Wine

Wine is born from a nexus between the art and science of

grape growing and winemaking. Considering the romantic

notion many people build around the small artisan winemak-ercloser to his land and cellarthe idea follows that his

wines must be better than what is made by larger wineries,

assumed to be further away from the dirt and less involved.

Negociants, who purchase grapes or wine to be blended at

their cellars, are often viewed more skeptically, especially by

those who believe that blending hides the individual nuances

that would be highlighted if the grower made his own wine.

While the quaint image of the "little old winemaker" still per-

sists, its important to remember that the wine industry is a

business and it costs money to grow grapes, make wine and

take it to market. The negociant performs an important func-tion in the wine world, as not all growers have the technical

ability to make wine and/or the financial resources to sell it.

When the demand for northern Rhone wines was limited to

local markets, negociants had the ability to purchase grapes or

wines from the many small domaines populating that section

of the valley.

In fact, many small growers with tiny plots of land had little rea-

son to make their own wine. But thanks to their access, negoci-

ants could step in and provide those farmers with a consistent

market for their fruit. Firms like Guigal, Chapoutier, Delas and

Jaboulet have rich histories that go back decades, having earned

international reputations based on the production of exquisite

wines from the sites in Hermitage and Cote Rotie, as well as clas-

sic interpretations of other appellations. As years passed and

business prospered, they were able to expand their vineyardholdings to the point that the top negociants now own significant

portions of the best vineyards in the northern Rhone. In sharp

contrast to the southern Rhone, much of todays wine production

in the northern Rhone is dominated by negociants.

The success of the negociants in the northern Rhone has also

created quite a dilemma. As business prospered, it became quite

difficult to expand local production in appellations of very lim-

ited size and production capability. At the same time, most of the

market has been demanding affordable southern Rhones, which

have captured the fancy of consumers and the trade. Conse-

quently, many negociants filled out their portfolios with wines

from Gigondas or Chateauneuf du Pape as well as more generic

Cotes du Rhones, largely made from contracted fruit and often

crushed and fermented in the south and trucked up north at a

later date. The expansion to the south has provided negociants

with increased exposure and sales, much of which has been

spent to expand vineyard holdings in the north.

Now the negociant model is being adopted by medium-sized

wineries, as well as a new breed of entrepreneurs. Growers like

Yves Cuilleron, Jean Louis Chave, and Pierre Gaillard have re-

cently started their own negociant businesses focusing on vine-

yards from the northern Rhone. Newer enterprises that have

been initiated by folks from outside the Rhone Valley, such as

Eric Texier and Patrick Le Sec, are bringing innovative ideas on

winemaking and marketing to the region. They seem to prefer

portfolios that represent the entirety of the Rhone Valley. Never-

theless, thanks to the increasing popularity and demand for

Rhone wines overall, the trend throughout the north is an in-

creasing number of growers forgoing the negociant model and

bottling their own wines. We can expect that trend to continue.


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18

THE NEGOCIANTS

ChapoutierHowever, Michel's greatest contribution to the northern Rhone is

his focus on the small climats and lieu-dits that make up each ap-

pellation. His laser-like focus on the subtle differences among the

varying plots under his stewardship allows him to highlight the

best qualities of each plot. Making individual wines that high-

light the qualities of each climat is nothing radical, since it is,

after all, the raison d'etre for the wines of Burgundy. But it is a

relatively new concept in the northern Rhone, raising its head

early on with Guigal's single vineyard Cote Roties.

Yet there are many, especially at Jean-Louis Chave, who believethe true expression of the appellation lies in the blending of dif-

ferent parcels. In other words, the sum is greater than its parts.

Debate away, but the trend seems to be heading towards

Michel's approach and, indeed, will not be limited to Hermitage

but will also play important roles in delineating the best areas of

other appellations like St. Joseph and Crozes Hermitage.

For many years, most of the wines at Chapoutier have been

made at the cellars underneath their offices in Tain. With the

Chapoutier firm expanding its reach to include projects in Rous-

sillon, Banyuls and the Ardeche, there was a need to centralize

winemaking into one location. Accordingly, an ultramodern

winery was recently constructed just outside the town. Painstak-

ingly constructed, everything has been set up to take advantage

of the latest technologies except that Michel has also gone back

in time constructing a slew of concrete fermenters for many of

the northern Rhone cuves.

While traditional ideas form the foundation of his winemaking

techniques, Michel is not afraid to adopt modern concepts.

Destemming of fruit is a common practice for all his wines and

new wood is used but in a judicious manner. Known in the past

for making wines in a voluptuous style, Michel has reined in the

fruit profile of his wines over the past decade. This is not to say

there is no fruit. Rather, the flavors are intense but precise and

presented in an elegant manner. As befits Michel himself, these

wines are more introspective, constantly revealing more person-

ality as you progress through a bottle.

The 2009s and barrel samples of the 2010s were extraordinary

wines that clearly showed the qualities of each terroir as well as

the nature of the vintage. Having made wines that flirt with per-

fection, it is scary to predict how Michel will top these exquisite

wines. I only hope I get a chance to try them.

Based in the small town of Tain at the foot of the Hermitage

hill, Chapoutier was founded in the early 1800s and the family

has owned significant portions of this famed vineyard for gen-

erations. The Chapoutier firm currently owns 35% of the total

acreage/production of Hermitage. While the company has

always been rather successful, more acclaim has come to the

firm recently thanks to Michel Chapoutier's improvements in

the vineyards and cellar as well as his endless promotional

efforts.

Of all the negociants in the northern Rhone, no one has burned

the torch harder or done more to raise the profile of these ap-

pellations than Michel Chapoutier. There can be no mistaking

what his drive and energy have done to bring attention to the

appellations in his portfolio.

Michel has also generated significant amounts of publicity for

the use of biodynamic practices in his vineyards. Though more

common in today's viticultural practices, he adopted these

methodologies at a time when few wineries did so. Hes done

much to educate consumers about his take on biodynamics

and is probably indirectly responsible for getting many vine-

yards in America to investigate these techniques.


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19

THE NEGOCIANTS

Guigal

Whereas most negociants have been based in the southern por-

tions of the northern Rhone, Guigal is uniquely based in the

town of Ampuis, the center of winemaking for Cote Rotie. And

while negociants have stories that go back centuries, Guigal is

fairly new. Etienne Guigal started his company after World War

II in 1946.

Guigal's greatest contribution to the world of wine was the intro-

duction of his three single-vineyard Cote Roties. Interestingly,

the wines did not appear all at once. The "La Mouline" cuve was

first introduced in 1966. Twelve years later, the first "La Lan-

donne" was made with La Turque coming out in 1985. Each is

made differently and sourced from vines of varying age and

contains between 0-11% viognier.

The "LaLas", as they are called in the biz, now represent the

benchmark for Cote Rotie with prices that match. However,

they only gained their current popularity once all three wines

were offered to the market and just as Robert Parker's promo-

tion of Rhone wines was starting to gain significant momen-

tum. As a result of the attention being paid to the appellationover the past few decades, plantings of Cote Rotie have more

than doubled in the twenty years since "La Turque" first en-

tered the market. And the Guigal family has done just as well,

with holdings and leases allowing them to control 40% of the

production of Cote Rotie.

As a house style, the Guigals are firm believers in oak, especial-

ly for appellation or single plot cuves. These wines can be

aged in oak from 20-38 months depending on the vintage and

site. Generally, the retention of stalks is not done but when

they are ripe, whole bunches may be used in the top cuves.

While Guigal's contribution to improving the status of CoteRotie is significant, their negociant business has probably made

the biggest impact on the wine scene. Like their neighbors, the

Guigals were forced to look to the southern Rhone to expand

their wine business and have done much to promote those ap-

pellations. Their red and white Cotes du Rhones are best sellers

and have done much to help Guigal expand their vineyard

holdings in the north.


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20

THE NEGOCIANTS

Jaboulet

The firm of Paul Jaboulet Aine is acclaimed for two reasons: the

world famous Hermitage "La Chapelle" and the passionateGerard Jaboulet. Founded in 1834, Jaboulet represented the

northern Rhone across the world and throughout the latter part

of the 20th century. A measure of its historical presence in Amer-

ica can be found on an old wine list from Antoine's in New Orle-

ans which featured a 1929 La Chapelle for $3.00 back in 1940.

La Chapelle, a trademarked brand, is named after a small chapel

located in the climat of L'Hermite at the top of the Hermitage hill.

Owned by the Jaboulets for almost a century, it is said to have

been the home of a religious hermit who returned to the area

after a medieval war and it remains the most visible landmark

on the Hermitage hill.

Like Chapoutier, the Jaboulets have one of the largest holdings

of Hermitage, supplemented with a few lease arrangements. The

La Chapelle cuve is not the product of a single site but com-

posed of grapes from several climats. Each year, the best lots are

selected, with the lesser wines declassified into the new Petite

Chapelle cuve. Traditionally, the backbone of La Chapelle is

fruit sourced from the lieu-dits of Meal, Bessards and Greffieux

but the blends will vary from year to year. In this way, La

Chapelle resembles more of the assemblage approach to making

Hermitage as endorsed by Jean-Louis Chave rather than Cha-

poutier's more detailed examinations of different terroirs.

While negociants have the image of somewhat faceless organiza-

tions, one look at firms in the northern Rhone shows that strong

personalities have driven these wineries to ever-higher peaks of

commercial and critical success. Perhaps nowhere was this more

noticeable than at Jaboulet, as led by Gerard Jaboulet. At a time

when most negociants were indeed nondescript (before Robert

Parker's influence came to the fore), it was Gerard's endless pro-

motion that singlehandedly raised the awareness of the Rhone

Valley. His legendary sales trips took him to all corners of the

globe, big and small, and he did much to educate and inspire

both consumers and the trade. Unfortunately, Gerard passed

away at the age of 55 leaving behind an impressive legacy but

also leaving Jaboulet without the inspirational leader who did as

much for the Rhone Valley as he did for the winery. The firm

was recently purchased by the owners of Bordeaux's Chateau La

Lagune and the next generation of Jaboulets will continue their

work in the vineyards and cellar.


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21

THE NEGOCIANTS

Delas

Over the past decades, the number of negociants in the northernRhone has slowly dropped. Well-known firms like Vidal-Fleury

(purchased by Guigal in 1984) and lesser known ones like Revol

have disappeared for various reasons. Whether purchased for

their vineyard holdings or collapsed due to the success of other

firms, recent trends suggest it could be difficult for some smaller

negociant firms to succeed.

For many decades, the firm of Delas was probably on that list.

Founded in 1835, the winery remained under family control until

1977 when it was sold to Deutz Champagne to avoid bankrupt-

cy. For the subsequent two decades, the winery languished as

vineyards were parceled off and cellar maintenance deferred.

More importantly, the wine quality was decidedly subpar and

sales suffered. Deutz was then sold to Louis Roederer, who also

inherited the Delas brand, which included extensive holdings in

Hermitage and Crozes Hermitage, a cellar in St. Joseph and nu-

merous contracts with top growers throughout the north.

Rather than throw the baby out with the bathwater, Roederer

committed to raising the standards at Delas and made significant

investments in the winery and personnel. The company first

hired Jacques Grange, who had worked at Chapoutier and Jean

Luc Colombo, and he set about cleaning the winery and renew-

ing the cellar with new wood barrels and casks. The vineyards

were freshened up and Jacques began visiting contract growers

on a regular basis to ensure the quality of purchased fruit.

Thanks to Roederer's commitment, both wine quality as well as

critical and popular opinion have seen a marked upturn since

the turn of this century. Rather than the muddled and diffused

results from a few decades ago, the wines are now fresher and

more vibrant thanks to the refurbished winery and the hands-on

vineyard management. Indeed, the future looks bright at Delas.


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22

TASTING NOTES

2010 St. Joseph Blanc

100% marsanne. Yellow-gold color. A fragrant and persistentlypure lemon expression emerges on the nose. The vibrant fruitflavors are focused and just starting to put on weight, as lemonappears again with unripe pineapple, while the finish lingerswith a hint of bitterness. Very complete, this will get more sowith a few more years. Drink in 6-8 years for its peak expression.92-93 pointsChuck Hayward

2010 Hermitage Blanc "Chante Aloutte"

100% marsanne. Barrel sample. Thanks to the long, cool growingseason, this is a fresh and precise version when compared to the2008. Crisp and youthful, reserved acids at this stage allow formore textured fruit to appear. Light notes of melon and lemonverbena gain richness and texture towards the backpalate. Veryapproachable at this point. 94-96 pointsChuck Hayward

2010 Ermitage Blanc "Le Meal"

100% marsanne. A barrel sample. Aromatically unique, the noseinitially shows a wild/feral nose of yeast and earth that latermorphs into scents of meat and ham and finally reveals seductive(and more expected) lemon cream. The medium weighted palatecurrently showcases a modicum of texture with concentrated

fruit in reserve in the backpalate. The finish is youthfully shortwith the slightest hint of bitterness. Tasted twice with consistentnotes. 92-94 pointsChuck Hayward

2010 Ermitage Blanc "de l'Oree"

100% marsanne. Barrel sample. The perfect expression of thiscuve's typical power and body when compared to its siblings.Lighter in color than Le Meal, pristine, high-toned aromas high-light a purity of citrus and tropical scents. The palate shows aricher, textural facet with medium-plus weight that avoids anoverripe, fat presence. Despite the richness, the clarity and preci-sion of the fruit here is exciting as the tropical fruit notes gainconcentration and tumble towards a finish of lingering flavorsand the bitterness noted in Le Meal. 94-96 pointsChuck Hay-ward

2010 Ermitage Blanc "L'Ermite"

100% marsanne. Barrel sample. As expected with this cuve, thisis classic vin de garde style. The complex aromas are reserved andhard to suss out at first but hints of spearmint and honey slowlyevolve and appear. The spearmint note pops up again as part ofa tight palate presence that is not as showy as the "Clos del'Oree". This cuve is, nevertheless, more packed with flavor andmaintains incredible length. This sample is all about conjectureat this point but history shows that this will blossom over thenext 3-5 years and will provide peak experiences for a few dec-ades. 93-95 pointsChuck Hayward

2010 Crozes Hermitage "Meyzonnaires"

100% syrah. Beautiful aromas highlight syrah's spicier aspects asblack peppercorn, green herbs and pepper show off the bou-quet's high-toned qualities. The fruit flavors are clean and brightwith pinpoint precision, thanks to the vibrant yet integratedacidity. Finely grained tannins lay the foundation for a spicyfinish that leaves one salivating for more. 92-94 pointsChuckHayward

2010 Ermitage "Pavillon"

100% syrah. Opaque in color. This classical rendition of the ap-pellation is a bit closed and reticent in the nose, though somemineral and black pepper peak out with swirling. As expected,the palate is narrowly framed at this point with a linear profile ofprecise dark fruit flavors that lead into finely grained mineralcomponents. The acidity is perfectly woven into the palate andplays an integral part in the very long finish. 94-96 pointsChuck Hayward

MICHEL CHAPOUTIER


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TASTING NOTES

2009 St. Joseph Blanc "Granit"

A barrel sample of 100% marsanne tasted 3 months before itsrelease. Straw-gold in color, the aromas of tropical fruit and fruitcocktail syrup are forward, showing an exotic quality. Almostfull-bodied in weight, the exotic qualities from the bouquet alsopop up on the palate but woven around a spine of minerals anda talc-like note that make for an elegant finish. Lingers consider-ably. 2-3 years will allow this wine to blossom even more. 94-96pointsChuck Hayward


100% marsanne. Yellow-gold color. More reserved comparedwith the St. Joseph, but still offering appealing aromas of ginger,nutmeg and Thompson seedless grapes. Later, the bouquet gainsmore interest as scents of sponge cake and confectionary sugarappear. Even with hints of ripe fruit on the palate, the texturesare reined in at this point as the pronounced minerality persistson the lengthy and dry finish. A few years will show the latentfruit and it should be peaking in 6-8 years. 94-96 pointsChuckHayward

2009 Ermitage Blanc "de l'Oree"

100% marsanne. A straw-yellow color. The medium-weightedfruit is densely packed with perfectly poised flavors that are fo-cused and precise. Dry pear flavors dominate here along withexotic tropical notes that pick up intensity on the backpalate.There is another dimension to this cuve despite its comparative-ly restrained presence that demands 2-3 years. Look for peakdrinking in 8-10 years. 94-96 pointsChuck Hayward

2009 Ermitage Blanc "L'Ermite"

100% marsanne from the smallest of Chapoutiers holdings inthis climat. The first impression is that this is simple and closedin, but hints of florals, white stone and honeysuckle appear slow-ly. Although restrained at this point, it's clear to see this is quite

balanced and put together. Not overtly fruity or tropical, youreleft instead with persistent and lingering flavors of mineral andstone fruit in a taut frame. The lasting sensation is of a wine withtightly wound up flavor just waiting to bust out. It will happenbut patience is required. Just electric! Wait a few years knowingthat it will be insanely good in twenty. 96-97 pointsChuckHayward

2009 Ermitage "Greffieux"

100% syrah. From a parcel at the foot of the hill. Opaque purple-black at the core with a thin, vibrant purple rim. This barrel sam-ple came from a new barrel so that oak dominates the nose withseductive vanilla aromas. The firm tannins on the finish com-mand the palate at this point but there is some underlying fruitthat is quite powerful and just starting to make its presenceknown. The tannins form the spine of the long finish that is sup-ported by balanced acids and dark fruit flavors. You will be re-warded in 8-10 years with a stunning wine. 95-96 pointsChuck

Hayward

2009 Ermitage "le Pavillon"

100% syrah. From the Bessards climat further up the slope com-pared with the Greffieux. A barrel sample with an opaque coreand a thin, purple rim, there is much more power and concentra-tion found here. The purity of fruit is sensational and almostotherworldly. Although extracted and showing a hint of over-ripeness, the blackberry and vanilla flavors are clear, clean andprecise. But the finely sculpted minerals, tannins and acidity takethis to another level and add an exhilarating sense of vibrancy toeach of the wine's components. Once this matures and the vari-ous parts meld together, this wine will transport you. 97-98

pointsChuck Hayward

2009 Ermitage "Le Meal"

100% syrah. A barrel sample. Beautifully integrated oak andfruit present a seamlessly complex and ever-changing bouquet.The expressive purity of fruit so evident in the nose carriesthrough to the palate, where there is great richness and powerhere but still a light presence, thanks to refreshing acidity andtension on the finish supplied by the minerals and finelygrained. A baby right now, look for peak drinking in 10-12 years.97-98 pointsChuck Hayward

2009 Ermitage "L'Ermite"100% syrah from the climat of l'ermite. A barrel sample. The coloris translucent at the core with a pale, faded rose at the rim. Morereserved and restrained on the nose, hints of vanilla-scentedcherries slowly emerge. The palate, much like the bouquet, isclosed yet offers much flavor in reserve with vibrant hints ofviolet and black cherry. The subtle finish is supported by veryfine tannins, but this needs time. Will peak in 20-30 years. 97+pointsChuck Hayward

MICHEL CHAPOUTIER


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TASTING NOTES

2008 Hermitage Blanc "Chante Aloutte"

100% marsanne. Clear in color, the bouquet is reserved rightnow with lemon blossom and honeydew melon wafting outslowly. The light-to-medium-bodied palate is subtle with a moredelicate presence but is a touch simple and lacking much inter-est. Perhaps it is closed and needs more time. There is a bit oftelltale bitterness and spice underneath the fruit on the finish.Tasted twice with consistent notes. 91 pointsChuck Hayward


100% marsanne. Barest yellow-straw color. This cuve is alsoreserved and reticent on the nose with hints of fresh yet bitterlemon aromas. It shows its pedigree with clean fruit flavors oflemon infused melons at the core of the palate, followed by sub-tle earth notes along with a slightly bitter component on thelengthy finish. Like the Chante Aloutte, this cuve seems a bitclosed at this point. 92 pointsChuck Hayward

Bernard Chave started this venture in 1970 with the purchase of2 acres of vines in the Crozes Hermitage AOC. Now operated byhis son, Yann gave up a career in banking to return to winemak-ing, and the domaine has now expanded to include almost 40acres of vines that are leased and under family ownership. Thewines are made with minimal handling, the must being puncheddown only twice during fermentation and with the grapesdestemmed before crushing.

2009 Crozes Hermitage

100% syrah from the villages of Mercurol, La Roche de Glun andPont de lIsre. Only 20% of the wine sees wood in demi-muidswhile the rest of the wine goes into stainless steel tanks. Good,deep color with a thin, youthfully purple rim. Delicate aromas offruit complement the subtle pepper and notes of spicy earth.While not vibrant or structured, the richly textured fruit, thanksto some low acidity, covers the textural tannins. Drink over thenext 6-8 years. 93 pointsChuck Hayward

2009 Crozes Hermitage "La Rouvre"

Selected from 50-year-old syrah vines grown in the "Chassis"portion of the appellation. More deeply colored than the classic

cuve, the bouquet is closed and will need some time to open.Eventually, hints of black currant and pepper appear with air.The palate, however, is explosive as it offers up richly texturedfruit flavors that are almost New World in style, while the back-palate has viscous, sur-maturite qualities that envelop very finetannins that lie underneath the fruit. Best to drink this in the nearterm to enjoy its youthful fruit. 94 pointsChuck Hayward

2009 Hermitage

30-year-old vines from the lieu-dits of Beaume and Pelat andaged in 100% new demi-muids. The bouquet is initially reservedwith the barest hint of herbs and spice appearing, though a bit ofvigorous swirling reveals some complexity marked by aromas of

marinated meat and black cherry. As might be expected fromthis appellation, the palate is balanced and shows restraint, alongwith a more compact palate profile. The tight core of fruit is sup-ported by significant yet finely grained tannins on the structuredfinish. Will need at least 2-3 years to show at its best, with ma-turity arriving in 10-12 years. 93+ pointsChuck Hayward

MICHEL CHAPOUTIER YANN CHAVE


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TASTING NOTES

The fortunes of the wine industry in the northern Rhone havelargely been shaped by the negociants who have dominated theregion's wine production and commerce for centuries. Manypeople, including the owners of these firms, would probablyagree that the soul of the region lies with the family of Jean LouisChave. The Chaves can trace their roots back to 1481 making thisone of the wine industry's oldest estates. For many connoisseursof the northern Rhone, the wines of Chave are the ne plus ultraexpression of their appellations.

The foundation of the family's domaine lies in their extensivevineyard holdings on the hill of Hermitage amassed over manygenerations. Where many estates have small plots in a few of theappellation's climats, the Chave holdings are spread among ninedifferent sites and comprise over 10% of the appellation's acre-age. The family has always maintained a preference for blending,releasing just one red and white cuve that aim to capture theessence of the Hermitage hill. The family also owns a small par-cel of St. Joseph spread among four different communes.

The domaine is now run by Jean Louis Chave who graduallytook over the reins from his father following his education at UCDavis. The reds have been made without stems for quite some

time and see very little new oak with each plot vinified and agedseparately. The whites, however, see significant oak for bothfermentation and aging with up to a third new oak utilized.After 18 months, the various lots are blended together to craftwines that take on an elegant rather than obvious presence.

Chave, like many other small domaines of the north, also addeda negociant business to his responsibilities. Beginning in 1995,both reds and whites were produced and made from a combina-tion of declassified wines from the family domaine along withfruit and finished wines from other properties. This project fo-cuses solely on appellations of the northern Rhone.

2008 Hermitage Blanc

85% marsanne and 15% roussanne. Golden straw in color. Thenose is quiet at this point, not revealing much until intriguinghints of honeydew melon, fresh walnut and flowers peek outwith air. Starting subtly as well, the elegantly structured palatebuilds towards a slightly viscous core of fruit on the midpalate,leading to a richness of tropical flavors like banana and mangopresented gently and not overtly fat or overripe. The fruit flavorsform the foundation of a delicate finish that lingers nicely. Willshow better in a few years. The style here is one of elegance, not

wearing an overbearing or extracted persona. 94 pointsChuckHayward


85% marsanne and 15% roussanne. Remarkably youthful in ap-pearance, the color barely shows any hint of its age with a subtleyellow/gold at the core. The bouquet is a touch reticent withnotes of pound cake, wax paper and honeycomb. There is still asmall core of primary fruit with honeyed, mature pear and driedapple flavors presented along with notes of almonds and brazilnuts. Subtle and elegant as a whole, this still retains a youthfulpresence and the feeling that this wine could age another tenyears. 94 pointsChuck Hayward

2008 Hermitage

100% syrah. Darkly colored at the core with a fairly broad pinkrobe. Ever-changing aromas start off displaying subtle notes offresh earth that move into pepper and spice. A pure core of fruitis compact and focused but vibrant and fresh thanks to thewine's overall acidity. The finish lasts quite some time, showcas-ing peppery spice along with fine, spiky tannins. The style here,as with the white Hermitage, is one of elegance and grace, high-lighting the precise fruit flavors. Should be best in 6-8 years. 94pointsChuck Hayward

1992 Hermitage100% syrah. Faded purple/brown with an amber robe. The bou-quet exhibits secondary characteristics of sweet leather andWorcestershire sauce that is subtle yet intense. Later notes ofbeef marinade and tomato stew reveal themselves. Just a hint ofyouthful fruit at the core in the form of dried cherry surroundedby flavors of dried mushroom and soy. The backpalate is a bitdilute but the delicate flavors linger thanks to still vibrant acids,while spiky tannins can be found on the finish. Drink this soon.94 points Chuck Hayward

JEAN-LOUIS CHAVE


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TASTING NOTES

CLUSEL-ROCH

Now celebrating the recent arrival of Guillaume Clusel, whorepresents the third generation of winegrowers entering into thefold, this Cote Rotie specialist began bottling its own wine in1969 from the family's small holdings. Over the years, the do-maine has expanded to 3.5 hectares with the centerpiece being asmall plot of 75-year-old vines in the Grand Places lieu-dit nearthe village of Verenay.

2009 Cote Rotie "Petite Feuille"

100% syrah from younger vines. Barrel sample. The bouquetright now is closed and quite reserved but does reveal subtlearomas of grilled meat. The palate shows a purity of vibrantfruit, along with finely textured structural elements. A very com-plete wine that is not disjointed at all, the present tannins aresubsumed by the rich fruit on the finish. 92+ pointsChuckHayward

2009 Cote Rotie "Classique"

96% syrah with 4% viognier, comprised of grapes from six differ-ent parcels. A youthful, vibrant color, this wine is not as open oraromatic as most 09s. The palate is a bit unevolved at this pointbut shows great clarity and precision, as well as more concentra-

tion than the Petitie Feuille cuve. Good length and a tannic fin-ish pops up at the end. 93 pointsChuck Hayward

2009 Cote Rotie "La Vialliere"

A new cuve. A touch lighter in color at the rim. This cuve onceagain displays more aromatic power and complexity than theprevious two, while showing off sweet fruit aromas, but stillremains closed and backward. The fruit textures are clean andbright, though they remain closed and reserved. This will needsome time to unwind there are finely grained tannins supportingthe lingering finish. 92 pointsChuck Hayward

2009 Cote Rotie "Les Grandes Place"100% syrah from 75-year-old vines. This cuve is clearly a stepup from the other bottlingsshowing deeper color and morepowerful and concentrated aromas. Its demeanor is a bit moreNew World than I prefer but its pretty hard to resist the richtextures and the long, flavorful finish with indiscernible, ex-tremely fine tannins. This is clearly ready-to-go if you can't waitbut there is lots in reserve and this will probably peak in 15 yearsor so. Wow! 96 pointsChuck Hayward

DOMAINE COMBIER

This estate specializes in wines from Crozes Hermitage, alongwith a small amount of St. Joseph. The property was originallypurchased in 1962 and used for mixed agricultural purposes, acommon practice at the time. In addition to growing grapes, theCombiers developed a reputation for growing top-quality peach-es and apricots. Starting in 1990, they stopped selling their fruitto the local co-op and developed their own brands for fruit,while bottling their own wines at the same time. The wines makeuse of 100% destemmed fruit, and the preferred style is one ofbalance and elegance.


100% syrah composed of fruit from the villages of Pont de l'Isere,Gervans and Serves sur Rhone. The bouquet is open and quitearomatic, just starting to reveal the attractive garrigue whichdefines the best examples of this appellation. With some air,hints of black pepper and green herbs appear. Medium bodied,this wine shows a definite ripe fruit character and thanks to no-table acidity, the wine avoids being overbearing. The lingeringfinish is a touch simple and dilute, though it's possible that sometime in bottle will bring out some richness out. Drink over thenext 2-4 years to get the best that this wine has to offer. 91pointsChuck Hayward

2009 Crozes Hermitage "Clos des Greves"

100% syrah from vines over 50 years old. The aromatics here arequite reserved and do not offer a distinct voice as compared tothe classic cuve, and subtle notes of green herbs indicate a bit ofunripe character in the wine. The fruit on the palate is simpleand straightforward, offering up a modicum of youthful, prima-ry fruit. A very young wine at this point, the lack of interest orcomplexity prevents this bottling from achieving the next level.88 pointsChuck Hayward


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TASTING NOTES

YVES CUILLERON

Yves Cuilleron is frequently the first name on people's lips whenmentioning viognier and Condreiu, as his proficiency with thegrape has propelled him to legendary status across the globe. Anunlikely superstar in the Rhone , with his background in me-chanics and no interest in wine until his uncle decided to sell thedomaine in the family for three generations. After a year's study,he took over winemaking duties in 1986. While renowned for hiswork with viognier, he quickly developed a reputation for hissyrahs that capture the expressions of each appellation in an ele-gant and focused fashion.

2010 Condrieu

100% viognier. Hint of yellow gold color. Compared with other2010s, this shows more forward, ripe aromas on the bouquet.The compact and linear palate highlights delicate flavors of stonefruits that are precise yet tightly wound with vibrant minerality.The finish is firm and dry. A very promising future for this bar-rel sample. 92-94 pointsChuck Hayward

2009 St. Joseph "Les Pierres Seches"

100% syrah grown near the village of Chavanay. The rim is apale rose with the rest saturated deep garnet. The bouquet is

closed at this point with hints of black pepper and subtle cherrynotes emerging slowly. This wine leaves a warm impressionwith medium-weighted dark berries flavoring the palate. Hew-ing towards elegance as compared to power, the fruit on thebackpalate falls off just a touch. Should open up nicely in 6-8years. 92 pointsChuck Hayward

2009 Cote Rotie "Bassenon"

Composed of 90% syrah with the addition of 10% viognier fromthe Semons lieu-dit. Darkly colored center with a purple rim, thebouquet is very pretty with perfumed floral notes. This wineoffers a sophisticated presence with focused flavors of blackcherries dusted by bittersweet chocolate, although the backpalate

is a touch diluted. The tannins are refined, providing a firmfoundation for the pretty fruit flavors. Wait a few years; maturitywill come in 10-12. 94 pointsChuck Hayward

2009 Cote Rotie "Madiniere"

100% syrah from a plot near the village of Ampuis. Barrel sam-ple. Lighter color. Nevertheless, there is more concentration andpowerful aromas. This cuve is the standout of this lineup withperfect poise and balance, a reserved sense of power and richtextures that don't go overboard. A young wine with lots ofpowerful dark fruit flavors, yet it is well integrated and showslots of complexity. 93-95 pointsChuck Hayward

EMMANUEL DARNAUD

Emmanuel represents a new generation of growers in CrozesHermitage. He started his career in 2001 with a small three-acreholding and today he can draw upon almost 30 acres of ownedand leased vineyards, most located in the southern portion of theappellation in the villages of Mercurol, Pont de l'Isere and Rochede Glun.


100% syrah. This cuve finds complex aromas of

black olive and pepper mingling with somesauvage notes of garrigue and provencal herbs.However, there is an unfortunate indication ofbrett underneath the more attractive aromas.Medium bodied with savory characteristics toadd texture, the palate is not as intriguing as themore attractive portions of the bouquet. The fin-ish is firm with drying, fine tannins. Drink soonbefore the brett gets out of hand. 89 pointsChuck Hayward

2009 Crozes Hermitage "Les Trois Chenes"

100% syrah obtained from 6-7 parcels and named after three oak

trees found in one of Emmanuel's vineyards. Very dark in colorand opaque through to the rim. The backward nose is closed andbarely aromatic although the barest hint of fruit and spice appearafter considerable aeration. The palate, however, is packed to therim with fruit that is quite youthful in flavor with juicy, palate-coating soft textures that just avoid being too much. The excite-ment continues as finely structured tannins appear on the finishto support the dark flavored fruits. Aerate to bring the bouquetout for current consumption while drinking over the next 6-8years to capture the youthful fruit flavors. 94 pointsChuckHayward

2009 Crozes Hermitage "Au Fil du Temps"

100% syrah. Once again, the bouquet here is quite closed andreticent but slowly reveals hints of pepper and grilled meatalong with exotic beef marinade qualities. The attack is fairlyrestrained but the mineral-laden fruit starts to unfurl towards afinish marked by fine tannins. This cuve is currently quite re-strained and should be drunk in 2-3 years for its youthful quali-ties or in 8-10 for more maturity. 92 pointsChuck Hayward


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TASTING NOTES


100% marsanne. Barrel sample. Youthful and undeveloped atthis point, the new oak shines

Documents

Wine Report 2009 Rhône Norte