Wine Republic Magazine JunJul 16

8/15/2019 Wine Republic Magazine JunJul 16

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Winery Guide

ISSN 1853-9610

Nº79 JUN - JULY 2016

MENDOZA´S FREE MAGAZINE

Winery Guide Ski Resortswine-republic.com

F R E E

F R E E

SommThe SommelierWorld Cup in

Mendoza

People


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Issue JUNE - JULY 2016 | ISSN 1853-9610.10,000 Copies. Published by Seven Colors S.A.Address: Espejo 266, Planta baja. Departamento 3.Mendoza, Argentina - Tel. +54 (261) 425-5613Editor: Charlie O’MalleyAssistant Editor: Emilie GiraudPublicity and Publisher: Mariana Gómez Rus:[email protected],[email protected] illustration : Donough O’MalleyDesign: Circlan.com . Jona Conti: [email protected]: Artes Gráficas UNIONContributing Authors: Emilie Giraud - Ben ShirleyPhotos: Felipe Martín Bravo and Emilie GiraudOpinions expressed in this magazine are notnecessarily the editorial opinions of Wine Republicwww.wine-republic.com

CREDITS

CONTENTS

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31

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News Republic

Every Cloud Has a Silver Jet liner......................

Google Goggles..........................................................

Expat Blues...............................................................

Somm People

The Best Sommelier in the World

tournament in Mendoza.......................................

How to become a sommelier ?.............................

Would you make a good somm ? .......................

And the winner is....................................................

The Fast ResortArgentina’s ski resorts have something for

everyone.....................................................................

Close to Mendoza....................................................

Further south............................................................

Food fot Thoughts

Finca Agostino, the must-eat-at-place in

Mendoza....................................................................

Wishlist

We asked 4 well-known sommeliers for

recommended food and wine pairings...........

Out & About

Bars...............................................................................

Dining out..................................................................

Winery Guide...........................................................

Maps & More

Map of Chacras de Coria.......................................

Useful information..................................................

Map of Mendoza City Center..............................

Map of Maipú............................................................


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NEWS REPUBLIC

Expat Blues“I chose to live here because it was cheap, sunny and fun”

declared one Mendoza expat recently. “But that is notthe case anymore.”Regarding prices it is certainly true and 40% inflationhas killed the golden goose. Not so long ago 4 pesosgot you a litre of beer and a packet of cigarettes, now itbarely covers the charge to send a text message. As forthe weather, Mendoza has already received its quota ofrainfall for the year in the first four months. The city’sinfrastructure, designed for Mediterranean sunshine, iscreaking under the soakage of a Scandinavian onslaught.As for fun, well Mendoza still has a lively nightlife andhas actually improved in the choice of bars and micro-breweries. The fabulous wineries are still here and thespectacular scenery. So why the gloom? In this case theex-pat has only himself to blame – he got married.

Google GogglesIts official. Armchair tourism has become a lot moreeasier, especially in Argentina. Google Maps now allows360 degree tours of Argentina’s most beautiful naturalwonders. Thirteen of the country’s national parks cannow be toured from the confort of your sofá. Sit back andsip tea whilst you glide across glaciars, through jungle,over waterfalls and down rivers. Google Street Viewnow covers Argentina’s most iconic places includingthe Petrified Forest of Jaramillo, the Glaciares, IguazúFalls, Mburucuya, Predelta, El Palmar, Patagonia, LosAlerces, Lago Puelo, Los Arrayanes and Nahuel Huapi yLanín. You may notice that Aconcagua does not featureand that’s probably because it inexplicably remains aprovincial park. Google why!

Every Cloud Has aSilver Jet linerWhile this magazine is loath to join the chorus ofprotest regarding the closure of Mendoza Airport fromSeptember to December, we do wonder why they couldnot dig up the runway in the low season when theairport has the least amount of passengers. Howeverhope springs eternal and we can only look forwardto Mendoza having a lovely new airport ready forChristmas. What is curious is other significant newsregarding Argentina’s airways barely reaching the backpage of the national newspapers. That is the recenttalks between the transport ministry and Ryanair, thefamous budget airline that opened Europe’s airways to

raucous, high rolling hen and stag parties. The arrivalof such an efficient and low-cost airline would certainlyshakes things up here and pos e a huge threat to the nearmonopoly that Aerolineas Argentina uses and abuses.One telling figure is the employee per aircraft ratio ofboth airlines. Ryanair have 30 staff per aeroplane whilstAerolineas has a whopping 188. Rec ent rumblings by thegovernment that they will be withdrawing the massivesubsidies received by Aerolineas means the future ofthe national airline is dim indeed (watch this space forstrikes and flight disruptions) and the time is ripe forsome badly needed competition. One route Ryanair

should be looking at is Santiago de Chile to Mendozawhich currently costs a ridiculous $350 US for what isa 25 minute flight. The poor state of the mountain landcrossimg and unpredictable weather means this routecould be one of the busiest in the country if fares camedown to a reasonable level. Step up Michael O’Leary.Stag parties are welcome.


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It’s only 4pm on a Tuesday and an unprobable queue ofglamorous women in cocktail dresses and well groomedmen in tuxedos are pushing through the entrance ofthe ornate Theatre Independencia in Mendoza citycenter.

Mendoza’s wine aristocracy are out in full force toattend the Oscar-like award ceremony of the BestSommelier of the World. Winery owners, managersand winemakers have temporarily left behind theirconsiderable harvest worries to see and be seen at thisevent, the first in Argentina since its creation in 1969.During the four days of competition, sixty onecandidates and their entourage have been received likeroyalty at some of Argentinas best known wineries andenjoyed the cuisine of the country’s best known chefs.This included an 18-hour roasting of an entire c ow thatrequired no less than 2000 kg of wood to cook.

Eighty four wineries sponsored the event, paying aminimum fee of 40,000 pesos and hosting numerousevents. One thousand different wines were available totaste over the long weekend, and nearly 15,000 glasseswere polished by an army of 125 volunteer sommeliers.

So what is this enthusiasm for sommeliers? It hassurprisingly become such a hip profession in a worldwhere hospitality jobs are consistently undervalued.One must wonder is there any room for the stiff winewaiter in a modern world where casual is the new chic?Lets start by asking what on earth is a s ommelier.

“Sommelier “ comes from the French word “sommerier“referring to the person in charge of watching overthe pack animal. The word “sommerier “ turned into“sommelier “ to describe more someone in charge of aspecific cargo. It is only in the 18th Century, alongsidewith the apparition of the modern restaurant, that theword started to be used exclusively in the context ofbeverages and cigars.Previously the butler would care for the wine storageof the aristocracy and chefs would work exclusively inthe big estate houses. The idea of dining out in a finerestaurant didn’t appear before the French Revolution.The first a-la-carte restaurant opened in 1782 and thetrend developed further with the rise of the bourgeoisieand the collapse of the old establishment. Left withouta job, many chefs started to cook for the general publicand soon came to require wine stewards. At the time,

The Best Sommelier in the World tournament was held recentlyin Mendoza. Emilie Giraud checks out the competition

Somm People


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the job was quite different and not exactly as glamorous

as it is today. A sommelier was usually an embittered orfrustrated cook that bought barrels from wine sellers.The profession slowly came into its own, and in 1907the first Union des Sommeliers was founded in Franceto ensure the rights of its members. The job started tochange in the 1940’s when estate bottling and labelingbecame the norm. A restaurant could store muchmore variety of wines and the concept of the winemenu appeared. The profession of sommelier suddenlyflourished.

Since the 1940’s the profession and the image of thesommelier has change d dramatically.The sommelier is no longer that dull, middle-aged black-tied wine bore with an imperious manner, and imposingnose, eager to sell you that over-expensive bottle ofFrench wine that he most likely earns a commision on.Nowadays, he is more like an expert wine c ommunicatorthat recommends a certain label with cool, knowledgableaplomb in an ever increasing, more casual style thatappeals to a younger generation of wine lovers Theaverage age of the competitors in Mendoza was 30 yearsold.

The modern sommelier style is less rigid and frigid.

In many ways, he can even be described as a kind ofentertainer determined to ensure people have the verybest wine and dine experience. With the developmentof technology and wine apps, he can no longer be theone that transmits hard facts about certain wines. Credits: Felipe Martin Bravo


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Interested in becoming a sommelier ?There are numerous courses and it is not necessaryto immediately get the official papers to work as asommelier. Only in 1999 was the official qualificationcreated by the Asociacion Argentina de Sommeliers.To start it is a good idea to self educate yourself in wine.,Visit wineries and taste and smell the most you can, notjust Argentine wines but labels from all over the World.Many people join tasting groups to make the processmore fun.Then, try to get experience in the industry like work ina restaurant or wine shop, or as a tour guide in a winery.Then if your enthusiasm has not wained, you shouldthink in training to get a sommelier certificate.

He should be able to tell stories about the origin of eachwine and elaborate on wine concepts without soundinglike a snob.

He also needs to be a good people reader. In a way awine lover`s psychologist with enough empathy tofind the right wine for the right menu, for the rightoccasion, for the right person.

The sommelier is not a person who is paid to spendhis day drinking wine. His daily agenda is way morediverse than that. As a sommelier friend working in anupscale Mendoza restaurant puts it :

“As a sommelier, I have to develop and curate the winelists, monitor the purchases and sales according to themenu and the types of clients we have. My day-to-day job also consists in managing the wine inventory,

overseeing the storage and care of wines.The key, is to work closely with the chef to createan harmonious food and beverage program. I alsoneed a team of well trained waiters. In my free time,I am forever updating my knowledge of the region’swineries and communicating through blogs, forumsand social media the latest trends.

¨Obviously I need to be impeccable in service., It is fairto say I am slightly obsessive. Before serving, I checkthat the bottle has the correct temperature and thatthe glasses are in perfect condition. I always check thewine for defects and use decanters, etc”

GerardBasset theonly som tobe master

sommelierand masterof wine.

ArvidRosengren :Best sommof the world

2016.

Paz Levinston :Best sommfromAmerica2016 -

Argentiniancandidate tobest somm ofthe world .

The most important institutions are the InternationalSommelier Guild, the Court of Master Sommeliers, theInstitute of Masters of Wine or the Wine and SpiritEducation Trust.But careful. Becoming a Master’s Sommelier or a Masterof Wine is not easy and is a very very select club. Inits 40 years of existence of the competition, less than200 people in the world have achieved the title MasterSommelier. The exam covers literally every nuance ofthe world of wine, spirits and cigars. It’s an incrediblejourney, that requires a huge budget and a lot ofsacrifice, never mind ones own sanity and personal life.Despite the challenge the number of candidate has beenincreasing exponentially in the last few years.

HOW TO BECOME A SOMMELIER ?

Credits: Felipe Martin Bravo


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Think you have what it takes to be the best sommelier of the world ?Here are some of the tasks the three finalists had to p erform in the Independence Theatre.

Arvid Rosengren :

Best Sommelier of the

World 2016

From Sweden

31 year old

Abandoned a career in

nanotechnology for

food and wine

Started as a floor

sommelier in Denmark

Works in Charly Bird

Restaurant, New York

Runs a private consulting

firm “ King StreetSommeliers “

And the winner is ...

Somm the MovieYou know a profession has become trendy when they make a movie about it. Somm (directed by JasonWise, 2013) is an entertaining and surprisingly dramatic documentary that follows the lives of four over-competitive wine jocks as they try to pass the much prized Master Sommelier Exam in the United States.This exam boasts to be one of the most difficult in the World, with only 200 succesful canditates over its40-year history. The applicants run the gauntlet of demanding examiners as they try to show they have thedeep knowledge required in the World of wine, which includes trying to place the origin, year and varietalof random wines in blind tastings. Needless to say, the movie does little to dispel the myth that the wineindustry is soaked in snobbery and over-sized egos.

- Serve a magnum of Champagne in 30 glasses, each having the same level of

foam and wine in less than 8 minutes.

- Decant in the right decanter a magnum of red wine and serve it.- Prepare a very dry Martini Cocktail.

- Recommend a menu to enjoy with a list of wine from everywhere in the World.

- Recommend a coffee to drink with specic chocolate trufes.

- Provide an in-depth analysis of different wines and spirits from around the world

- Guess the terroir, grape variety, winemaking process and vintage of a selection

of wines.

- Convince a potential buyer to make a signicant purchase of unique wines

- Find the mistakes on a wine menu

- Have extensive knowledge on wine personalities, wineries, winemaking

processes, wine regions and subregions, wine legislation, and also know about

coffee, tea, cheeses, beers and licors.

WOULD YOU MAKE A GOOD SOMM ?


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Whether you are an international playboy with a penchant for skiing, or

a penny pinching backpacker who’d like to learn, Argentina’s ski resorts

have something for everyone.

The

Fast Resorts

VALLECITOS

This is where Mendocino ski history began. It is theprovince’s oldest ski centre, nestled into the stunningCordon de Plata mountain range at an altitude of2,900m (rising to 3,200 for the highest run). 80km southwest of Mendoza City and just 16km past Potrerillos,it is perfect for day trips or one night stays. Theresort has a total of 12 runs, 20% for beginners, 60%for intermediates and 20% for the advanced, makingfor about 100 hectares of skiable ground (when thereis enough snow). Apart from the marked trails thereare a number of out-of-bounds bowls and chutes tobe explored. This is another resort that has outdated

equipment when it comes to world standards so takethe extra time suspended above ground to enjoy theview. Vallecitos is modest in size but also in prices.You best bet for accommodation is in the town ofPotrerillos

Close to Mendoza:

FreeImages.com/Artist’s Sheldon Pickering”


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LOS PENITENTES

What Los Penitentes lacks in size and glamour, it makes

up for ten-fold in scenery and accessibility. Namedafter a row of monk-shaped peaks in the mountains,this tiny village could not be more conveniently locatedas it is literally bisected by the main road to Chile(170km west of Mendoza City). With a base altitude of2580m rising to 3200m, these powdery slopes providetremendous opportunities for all levels to downhillor cross-country ski and snowboard. The resort has atotal of 28 runs, 11 of which have been approved by theInternational Ski Federation. All vary in difficulty, andstretch a total of 22 kilometers that cover around 300hectares of mountainous slope.Prices : Pass for one day : 600 pesos/persona

Rent equipment for one day : around 310 pesos /person.

Close to Mendoza:

LOS PUQUIOS –Parque de Nieve

This is much more than a ski resort. In fact, it is a ‘snowpark’ of 4 hectares located at 2680 m. There are a handfulof different ski runs here (with varying levels – somewhich are good for beginners as well as others designedfor intermediate skiers) but this unpretentious and familyfriendly resort also has a large variety of other activities onoffer. If you don’t want to ski or snowboard but like to stay

on your feet you can have a go at snow shoeing, which isbasically trekking around the resort with shoes similar totennis rackets on your feet, or you could try your hand atice skating in the small ice rink by one of the restaurants.However for those of us who quite like to use their bottomas a snow cushion there are a couple of fun options, anddon’t trick yourself into thinking they are just for children.Try out the culi-patin (literal translation butt skating) for asurprising adrenaline rush throwing yourself down a largehill on slippery plastic sledges, or go ‘tubing’ and sit yourderrier in a large inflatable rubber tyre as you slide downthe slopes – either way you are bound to be a convert.

There are also play areas for the rug rats to make snowmenand throw snowballs at each other, while the adults sitback with a beer or homemade rustic argentine food at therestobar nearby. And if you want to spend an entire dayat the resort, Los Puquios offers night skiing three nightsa week with floodlit pistes, live DJs and mulled wine. LosPuquios is just a couple of kilometers further up the roadfrom Penitentes with the same gorgeous Andean scenery.

credits:Mendoza.travel Los Penitentes

Los Puquios

Los Puquios

credits:Argentina.travel

Los Penitentes

credits:Argentina.travel

Los Penitentes


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Further South:

LAS LEÑAS

445km south of Mendoza City in the heart of the

Andes, this is the biggest, the best, and by far the mostexpensive of the resorts in the area. It attracts snowstarved enthusiasts from the north who can´t bear thethought of a summer without snow, along with well-heeled Argentines who ski by day and party by night.Las Leñas has a total of 35 marked runs that cover adistance of about 64km, the highest of which reaches3,430m. Of these runs, 30% are to be consideredbeginner, 25% intermediate, 20% black and another25% double black. One run even includes the addedspectacle of lights and music to accompany your ride.For those craving more adventure than a double-blackcan offer, there are said to be around 4,000 hectares

of off-peak slope. Keep on eye on the forecast becauseif it starts snowing, staff close all but 2 lifts incitingdreadful hour-long lines at the base. The ski-lifts aremildly outdated and even during normal conditionsthe ride from the base to the summit takes about45 minutes. The village at Las Leñas’ base containsmodern luxury hotels, restaurants, casinos, nightclubsand of course a multilingual ski school. If you decideto stay in nearby Malargue (70km) you get a 50%discount on the lifts. Buses leave regularly from theMendoza bus terminal. www.laslenas.comPrice : 920 pesos / person / day

Price rent equipement : beween 360 pesos to 610pesos according to quality /day

LOS MOLLES

Close to Las Leñas is Los Molles ski resort. Tranquil andlow key, it has the added attraction of thermal baths towind down after a hard day on the slopes.

BARILOCHE

The most famous resort in Bariloche is Cerro Catedralwhich is one of the largest and oldest ski areas inSouth America with its 600 ha, 53 ski and 38 lifts. Thedifferent routes on this mountain are endless includinga run with a vertical drop of 3,000 fe et. Activities hereare dominated by ski and snowboarding, but you canalso try out Nordic skiing in the forests and there is aterrain park too. The main base for this resort is VillaCatedral at the base of the mountain which has rentalshops as well as all your necessary conveniences.www.catedralpatagonia.com

credits: Argentina.travel


Cerro Catedral

Cerro Catedral

Las Leñas


Los Molles


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Finca Agostino restaurant has

quickly established itself as themust-eat-at-place in Mendoza.Emilie Giraud tucks into what is

also a beautiful family winery andart gallery

Located in Barrancas district of Maipu, on the dryriverbed of what used to be the Rio Mendoza , FincaAgostino is a family venture that spans two c ontinents

and half a century. The grandfather SabastianoAgostino was a Sicilian migrant who worked as acontracter vintner in Mendoza. In the 1960s the familymoved to Canada where the son and grandchildrenstarted a construction business. The business was a asuccess and in 2003 the brothers decided to completethe family dream by creating a winery in honor oftheir grandfather.

He was obviously held in high regard and the wineryis a tribute to all things Mendocino which includes aterrace that offers a dramatic view over the vineyard.Here you can walk in the shadow of a 60-year-old

pergola trimmed by roses. There is a delightful gardenwith fountains and outdoor sculptures and a lovelySpanish courtyard covered with blue ceramics, inspiredby Mendoza City´s Plaza España where the family wereoriginally raised.

Food for

Thought


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BODEGA FINCA AGOSTINOCarril Barrancas 10590 (5517) Barrancas, Maipú,Mendoza, ArgentinaT +54 261 5249358/9 - 524 9858/9 - [email protected] Monday to Sunday. From 10 to 5 - bookingrequired

Besides offering regular visits and tastings, the winerycurrently offers the best cooking class in Mendoza., whichis very much hands on and interactive. You pick your ownvegetables in the organic orchard and prepare and cookeach dish under the professional eye of the chef Sergio. Allaccompanied by great wine of course.

Another highlight is the 5-course-lunch paired with 5 of

their best wines. The pairings are simply brilliant, devis edby both the winemaker Jose Pedro Gomez and chefSergio Guardia together. Goat cheese grilled with sugarand zucchini is perfectly balanced by the sweet aromasof a Torrontes. It fits perfectly with its dryness and goodacidit. Fried vegetable ravioli goes with a smooth Merlot.The main course is filet mignon served with the AgostinoFamilia blend. The service is perfect and the portionsgenerous.For siesta what better than to take a glimpse in theexhibition room and its collection by local artists.


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MATIAS DOWN TOWNVictorian style decor and multiple ales to choose from isenough to soothe the nostalgia of any barfly foreigners.Downtown Matias is part of a successful beer chain startingin Buenos Aires in 1973 and now with bars as far as SanMartin de los Andes in Patagonia. Mendoza’s version is rightin the heart of beer street and ideal for a sidewalk stop-off orsome serious high stool imbibing inside. Aristides 198.

ANTARES BARAristides street would not be very complete without its ownmicro-brewery bar. Antares is the real deal and a pioneerin this respect with bars located across the country sincebefore it became trendy to brew your own grog. Its longbar displays tempting casks of great quality beers such asScottish ale and Irish stout. This expansive bar packs themin at night and serves decent pub grub too. Antares Bar.Aristides 153.

BLACK SHEEPJust off the Alameda strip, the Black Sheep is an American-

style sports bar with big screen TVs and decent bar foodlike nachos, homemade burgers and hot and spicy chickenwings. While especially popular during sports matches, TheBlack Sheep is one of the few bars to stay open everydayfrom 12 till 4am so you can grab a pint whenever you like!Maipu 131, Mendoza (261) 561 4283.

BELIEVE IRISH PUBOne of the few bars in Mendoza with a bar counter andhigh stools to prop yourself up on. Kelly, the English part-owner/pub-mascot is almost always there to share a chatand a smile with the crowd; which is most likely a factorin its notable popularity among expats and travelers. On

the menu is a great collection of draught beers, bottledbeers (try the Warsteiner) and surprisingly decent pubgrub. TV screens hang in every corner airing hit music-video montages or football games. Monday night isInternational night and for their packed events DJ’s rockthe house. Colon and España 241. Tel. 261-429-5567. www.believeirishpub.com.ar

TAVERNA BEER HALLIn the heart of Chacras de Coria, nestled in an old brick winery,Taverna is a cool industrial like beer hall with a vintagetouch. It is the ideal place to gather with friends or mingle

with the locals around its big tables. Cosmopolitan music, adiverse wine and beer selection and tasty snacks includingsalads, pizzas, quesadillas, nachos and waffles, makes it a newtrendy option to shake up Mendocinian nightlife. Open fromThursday to Saturday from 7 pm to 2 am. Happy hours 7 pm- 10 pm. Viamonte 4961, Chacras de Coria - 0261 496-6161 .

BARSINSIDE MENDOZA CITYThe list below has some great bars but if you’re looking to browse, head to Aristides VillanuevaAvenue, the nightlife strip of Mendoza. It’s a continuation of Ave. Colon and is simply referredto as Aristides by the locals. Pubs, bars, restaurants and shops cram together from Belgrano to

San Martin Park to provide you with ample bar options. Get your shut-eye before a night outbecause the clubs don’t even get started until 2am, and call a taxi because they are all locatedout of the city in Chacras or El Challao.


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DINING OUT

La PatronaThis cosy Mendocino restaurant has acasual, rustic charm about it. A colourfulhub of activity on a quiet street, Patronaattracts a crowd full of locals everynight of the week who come for thehonest, traditional Argentine food andfriendly and warm atmosphere. Classicdishes like the hearty empanadasand sizzling asado are worthy andpopular fare but the real star here isPatrona’s warm, open sandwiches Werecommend the artichoke hearts and

goats cheese; roasted vegetables withwhite wine and honey; or the moretraditional pick of rich glands cookedin lemon. Mi casa es Patrona casa! 9 deJulio 656. Tel: (261) 4291057. Mon to Sat:12.30pm - 3.30pm and 8.30pm - close.Avg. meal cost: $150/(including starter,main dish, dessert+a glass of wine)

Grill QLocated in the elegant Park Hyatt, GrillQ serves up traditional regional cuisineat a five star level. Sit back in the chicparilla style restaurant amongst the

cowhides and local artwork, pick fromone of the many Mendocinean wines,make your order and watch the chefsat work in the open kitchen. They arefamous for their grilled meats andgigantic empanadas, and serve heartyArgentine classics such as ‘locro’ - astew which hails back to the earlyindependence days. Save room for the

stunning desserts. The Hyatt’s otherrestaurant, Bistro M, offers a moregourmet evening menu and the most

exuberant ‘lunch menu’ in town. Witha gorgeous buffet spread of starters likesquid and basil stew, crispy calamariwith cool gazpacho and mezze styletapas, you’ll need to bring your stretchywaistbands to fit in the hearty andflavourful main options and thesumptuous dessert buffet on top.. Chile1124. (261) 441 1225. Avg. meal Grill Q$250 pesos. Bistro M Executive Menu$280 with starter buffet, main course,dessert buffet and glass of wine.

El Mercadito

With an attractive fairy lit patio andterrace outside, this is the perfect spotfor some lunch time sunshine or alfresco dining. Run by three friends, ElMercadito has a cool vibe and relaxedmusic making it a favorite. Openedrecently by three friends, El Mercaditois offering something a little bitdifferent to Mendoza. Opening in themorning for healthy breakfasts andantioxidant juices, El Mercadito staysopen throughout the siesta with itslight menu of sandwiches, big saladsand some Argentine classic meals. ElMercadito, Aristides Villanueva 521,(261) 4638847. Avg. meal price: $ 150.Chacras de Coria: Viamonte 4961, te:4962267.

Effe CucinaEffe Cucina is the closed-door restaurant ofchef, interior designer, and globetrotterFlorencia Previtera. This bubbly andtalented Mendocina studied in atop Chilean gastronomy school andtraveled Europe for ten years fromkitchen to kitchen before she decidedto get back to her roots and set up herown project. At weekends she turns her

kitchen into a laboratory of flavors andher stylish living room into an intimatedining space. Her refined cooking hasa home-made touch and she uses high-quality seasonal products in quantitiesthat won’t let you starve.. Reservationsrequired. Cellphone / Whatsapp:+5492612370023.Facebook : Effe cucina

La MarchigianaAs the first Italian restaurant inMendoza, La Marchigiana has plentyof history and traditional recipes to

whet any nonna`s appetite. MariaTeresa Corradini de Barbera`s familyrestaurant started off with only sixhearty Italian dishes but has growninto a popular local fixture which isalways busy despite its curious lack of

ambience. The pasta is the best thinghere, maintaining original recipesfrom over 60 years ago; we recommend

the huge stuffed ravioli. Check outthe Brad Pitt photo for celebritycredentials. La Marchigiana, PatriciasMendocinas 1550. (261) 4230751. Avg.meal price: $170

Anna BistroAnna Bistro has been an importantrestaurant on Mendoza’s food scenesince it opened 8 years ago, howeverthat doesn’t stop it from renovatingitself each year. This year Jerome andhis team have started smoking theirown salmon and cheese to add a bit

more flavour to some dishes and youcan try the rich salmon on deliciousbrioche and go the whole hog with a potof delicious steaming, garlicky prawns.Along with a handful of salmon dishesthere are a host of different foods onthe menu including classic steak, richlamb, creamy pastas and lots of lighteroptions including big salads, sharingplatters and vegetarian dishes. Whilelunch and dinner is still its main game,the beautiful gardens and restaurantare open for breakfast from 8am. Av.Juan B. Justo 161 Tel: (261) 425 1818.Everyday 8am till late. Avg. meal cost:

$190 pesos.

Anna Bistro

MENDOZA CITY

Ee Cucina

El Oso


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Josefina RestóThe trendy, cosmopolitan internationalcooking experience Josefina Restó is anisland of elegance on hectic AristidesStreet. The building is a playful mix ofthe urbane and the natural. The warmthof vintage style drawings adorning thewalls are illuminated through large,handsome street windows.Such an abundance of natural lightmakes for a peaceful, illuminated lunch.After work hours, you´re welcometo pop up for some gourmet tapasaccompanied with a rotating selectionof by-the-glass wine. At sunset, athoughtful combination of candle andindustrial light bulbs will put you inthe mood for a fine dinner. The food iseclectic, seasonal, and very personal - afusion of Ana’s mum traditional recipes

and of her own international cookingexperience. Don’t miss the Goat and itssweet red pepper pasta accompaniedwith clay-oven grilled vegetables and itsparsley sauce! www.josefinaresto.com.ar Aristides Villanueva 165, Mendoza5500, Argentina - Tel. 261 4233531

El OsoThe project of two globetrotters,Molly from Iceland and Nacho fromArgentina, El Oso offers fusion foodwith the focus on fresh, healthyand seasonal ingredients served in a

cheerful and relaxed atmosphere.Try their fresh fruit and vegetablejuices. They also do a mean Colombian“patacone” served with “pico de gallo”and sour cream. If that’s not enoughthey have an excelllent selection ofvegetable pies. El Oso is a good option fora casual lunch in the hectic city center.Open from Tuesday to Saturday from9am to 11pm. Delivery also available.España 1068 - 0261 633-8640.

Terruño - Club TapizTucked away among the sprawlingMaipu vineyards lies Club TapizResort and its lovely restaurant

Terruño. This handsome eatery boa stsan elegant interior, excellent serviceand a wine list that is sure to please

even the most finicky of wine snobs.Their chef compiles a tantalisingmenu that includes top notch lomosteaks, a rotating range of salads and asavory ginger/honey chicken dish thatis sec ond to none. If you like what yousee and taste, book a room in one oftheir seven Renaissance-style villas.Don’t forget to call ahead for dinnerreservations! Ruta 60 s/n 5517 Maipú.AR$ 220. Tel: (261) 496 0131. tapiz.com.Lunch, everyday, 12pm - 3pm. Dinner,Sun - Thurs, 8pm-11pm, Fri & Sat until12am. Avg. meal cost: $385 pesos.

Finca AgostinoElegance, history and the perfectmarriage of food and wine is whatyou’ll experience by dining at therestaurant of Finca Agostino winery.Ancient vines with stems as thickas tree trunks look in upon a lightfilled, stylish interior with enoughspace to dance a tango. The overallvibe is polished and handsome. Thefood is equally majestic - 5 courses ofwell thought, imaginative dishes thatare paired exquisitely with all thewineries wines - often explained and

described by the chef Sergio Guardia.The menu is seasonal with much ofthe ingredients freshly picked fromthe property’s organic vegetablegarden and orchard. Creamy pumpkinsoup was the starter when I dinedthere and the main course a choicebetween prime beef or Mendoza kidgoat. If you have time make sure totake a tour of the property whichincludes an art gallery and replicaplaza of Plaza España in Mendoza city.Cookery classes are available whereyou get to pick your own ingredients

and prepare and cook bread on anopen fire, empanadas, humitas andasado. Carril Barrancas 10590, Maipu.tel 2615249358. Avg. meal price $400pesos. www.fincaagostino.com

OUTSIDE CITY CENTER

Josefna Restó

Ruca MalenRuca Malen winery is synonymouswith gourmet food & wine pairings

in Mendoza. It was a pioneer in thisarea and deservedly won “Best wineryrestaurant experience in the World”in 2013. Such a distinction has to besustained. The winery recently tookon a new chef Juan Ventureyra. Ifind Juan in the restaurant’s organicgarden, beret on head, observingthe raw material. “The best cuisineand best wine start with the care ofthe earth and the plants” he says. Toget inspiration for the perfect wine-pairing experience, Juan walks thevineyard and spends hours with the

winemaker.“ I taste the wine at everystep - as a fruit, during its fermentationand the aging process. With thewinemaker, I wrote down a list ofaromatic descriptors, then I make a listof the ingredients that can match itwell, I decide on a cooking technique,and the winemaker approves thefinal menu. The menu is designed tounderline the characteristics of RucaMalen’s wines”. The 5-step-autumnmenu called the “spirit of the wine”is a journey through the differentuniverses of the winemaking process.

Having lunch in Ruca Malen is alsoa visual experience, from the foodserved in creative plates designedespecially for the occasion by localcraftsmen to the breathtaking viewone gets of the Andes and the vineyard.It also offers great vegetarian andgluten-free options.Ruta Nacional Km 7, Agrelo, Luján deCuyo, Mendoza. Tel: +54 261 553 7164Cel: +54 9 261 454 1236 [email protected]

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Los TonelesHandsome, Old World winery located5 minutes from the city center.”

Dirección: Acceso Este Lateral Norte1360, 5519 Mendoza. Teléfono: 0261431-0403. Open everyday. mail:[email protected]

Terrazas de los AndesThe fine wine sister of ChandonArgentina is a beautifully restoredbodega with well-appointed tastingroom. Fav. Wine: Cheval de los Andes.

(0261) 488 0704/5. Thames andCochabamba, Perdriel, Luján de Cuyo.www.terrazasdelosandes.com

Clos de ChacrasCharming boutique operation withnice history. A five minute walk fromChacras plaza. Fav. Wine: Gran Estirpe.(0261) 496 1285/155 792706. MonteLibano s/n, Luján de Cuyo. www.closdechacras.com.ar

Luigi BoscaThe Arizu dynasty are the royal family

of Argentine wine and their seat ofoperations is a handsome and elegant110-year old winery. (0261) 498 1974.San Martin 2044, Mayor Drummond,Luján de Cuyo. www.luigibosca.com.ar

RenacerThis Chilean-owned winery createsthe label Punto Final. Small, modernoperation with tour that includes ahands-on lesson in blending. Brandsen1863, Lujan de Cuyo. 261-524-4416 or261-524-4417. www.bodegarenacer.com.ar

KaikenThis rustic 80 year-old winery houses anew venture by the prestigious Chileanwinery Montes. Big and powerfulwines, destined for fame. TEL (0261)4761111-14 INT 113 / Movile (0261-153530 789) /Movile (0261-155 509 453)

THE WINERY GUIDECatena ZapataShowcase winery designed like a Mayantemple overlooking vineyards and theAndes Mountains. Rich, complex wines.(0261) 413 1100. Cobos s/n, Luján de

Cuyo. www.catenawines.com

Alta VistaMasterful mix of modern andtraditional. Tasting includesdistinctive Torrontes or singlevineyard Malbecs. (0261) 496 4684.Álzaga 3972, Chacras de Coria, Lujande Cuyo. www.altavistawines.com

Nieto SenetinerLocated in a beautiful old winery inChacras, Senetiner was founded in

1888 and makes a great range of winesand sparkling wines. (261) 496 9099,Guardia Vieja S/N, Vistalba, Lujan deCuyo. www.nietosenetiner.com.ar

MelipalGreat Malbec and gourmet lunchesmake Melipal one of the mostexclusive wineries to visit. (0261)4790202. R.N.7, 1056km, Agrelo, Lujánde Cuyo. www.bodegamelipal.com.ar

MendelAn old style winery ran by one of

Argentina’s most famous winemakerdynasties the De La Motta family.(0261) 524 1621. Terrada 1863, MayorDrummond, Lujan de Cuyo. www.mendel.com.ar

Viña CobosAmerican winemaker Paul Hobbswas one of the first to recognisethe possibilities of Malbec and hisBramare label is possibly one of thebest examples of this varietal. (0261)479 0130. R.N. 7, Lujan de Cuyo.www.vinacobos.com

TapizGreat wine lodge Club Tapiz, high-endrestaurant Terruño and an instructivewine tour including barrel andbottle tasting. (0261) 490 0202. RutaProvincial 15, Km 32. Agrelo, Luján deCuyo. www.tapiz.com

Belasco de BaquedanoGleaming modern facility withfascinating aroma room andrestaurant with Andean view. (0261)

524 7864. Cobos 8260, Lujan de Cuyo.www.belascomalbec.co

CruzatA boutique traditional sparkling wineproducer with gorgeous bubbles thatcan be enjoyed from their terraceoverlooking vines. (261) 5242290,

Costa Flores, s/n, Perdriel, www.bodegacruzat.com

Dante RobinoFounded in 1920, an atmospheric old-style winery with a modernist, light-filled tasting room with excellentview of mountains and vines.(0261) 488 7229 Ext. #2. CallejónMaldonado 240, Perdriel. www.bodegadanterobino.com

Septima

A beautifully designed winery withclear views of the mountains and alarge terrace used for sunset wineevents after 6.30pm on Thursdays.(261) 498 9550, Ruta 7, 6.5km, Lujan deCuyo. www.bodegaseptima.com

AlpamantaExemplary biodynamic vineyard setin the rustic splendor of Ugarteche.Ideal for families and nature lovers.Calle Cobos s/n. tel 0261 153468398.www.alpamanta.com

Pulenta EstateCool minimalist design and richcomplex wines make this a winerywith finesse and style. Fav. Wine:Cabernet Franc. (0261) 155 076426.Ruta 86, Km 6.5. Lujan de Cuyo.www.pulentaestate.com

NortonOld-style cellars contrast with a high-tech production line. Tank and barreltastings,and jug fillings on Thursdaysare popular with the locals. (0261) 4909700. R.P.15, Km 23.5. Perdriel.Luján deCuyo. www.norton.com.ar

Benegas LynchRich history and richer wines. Lovelyold bodega with lots of character. Fav.Wine: Cabernet Franc. (0261) 4960794. Ruta 60. Cruz de Piedra. www.bodegabenegas.com

CaelumModern, medium size winery on themain road to Chile just before themountains and has a nice family feel

to it. Fav. Wine: Fiano (261)156992890.R.N.7 km 1060, Agrelo. www.bodegacaelum.com.ar

MENDOZA CITY

LUJAN DE CUYO

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Restaurant

Lodging

Driving time from Mendoza City

Art Gallery

LOCATIONS REFERENCESREFERENCES

Luján de Cuyo

Maipú

Mendoza City

San Martín

Valle de Uco

Familia CassoneA charming, family owned winery

in a beautiful setting. Try the jasminetinted rosé amidst the pastoralsplendour of the owner’s expansivegarden. Anchorena y Terrada. (261)424 6301.www.familiacassone.com.ar

Ruca MalenExcellent food, great guiding andfirst-class wines. The pairings overlunch make for an unforgettableculinary experience. (0261) 5537164-2614540974. R.N.7 mapa_maipu al

29-5-16-01.jpg Km 1059, Agrelo, Lujánde Cuyo. www.bodegarucamalen.com

DeceroAttractive, modern facility withspectacular views of the mountainsfrom the cozy tasting room. (0261) 5244748. Bajo las Cumbres 9003, Agrelo,Luján de Cuyo. www.decero.com

VistalbaTasting room where one entire wallis a subterranean cross section of theactual vineyard clay, roots and rocks.Fab restaurant. (0261) 498 9400. RoqueSaenz Peña 3135, Vistalba. www.carlospulentawines

Achaval FerrerModern boutique close to Mendozariverbed. Big concentrated wines.(0261) 488 1131. Cobos 2601, Perdriel,Lujan de Cuyo. www.achaval-ferrer.com

BudeguerModern-style Budeguer winery offersyou the chance to blend wine and artin a warm and relaxed atmosphere.Its superb terrace is open until 8pmand is the perfect spot to sip a glass

of Malbec enjoying the sunset.Reservations required at [email protected] or +549261 6830749-www.budeguer.com R.P.N.15 Km 31,5Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. Mendoza.

TrapicheArgentina’s biggest winery is a mix ofold and new, traditional and industrial,and has the old train tracks leadingup to it. (0261) 520 7666. Mitre s/n.Coquimbito, Maipú. www.trapiche.

com.ar

El EnemigoOne of Argentina’s most talentedwinemakers Alejandro Vigilopens the door to this colorful andunconventional boutique operation.Boisterous, gourmet lunches offered.Videla Aranda 7008, Maipu. Tel.261697 4213

Finca Agostino

Elegant and picturesque winery withancient vines and walled orchard.Offer superb lunches and cookeryclasses.Carril Barrancas 10590, Maipu. Tel.2615249358. www.fincaagostino.com

MAIPÚChandonThe original foreign investor, French-

owned Chandon has been makinggreat sparkling wines in Mendozasince the 1960s. (0261) 490 9968. R.P.15,Km 29, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.bodegaschandon.com.ar

Dominio del PlataArgentina´s most famous femalewinemaker Susana Balbo is creatingsome rich and complex wines inthe heart of Agrelo. (0261) 498 9200.Cochabamba 7801 Agrelo, Luján deCuyo. www.dominiodelplata.com.ar

LagardeOwner of the oldest white wine inSouth America. Try the hand-craftedsparkling wine made from 100 yearold vines. (0261) 498 0011 Ext. 27. SanMartin 1745, Mayor Drummond. Lujánde Cuyo. www.lagarde.com.ar

CasarenaA beautiful mix of old and new, thiswinery mixes tradition and modernityin an old style winery with a supermodern restaurant with splendid views

of the vineyarsd and mountains.Brandsen 505, Perdriel. www.casarena.com.Tel 2616967848.

Ojo de VinoA modern winery in Agrelo. Thewinery restaurant Ojo de Agua, hasa delighful setting next to a vineyardlake. Bajo Las Cumbres S/N. Agrelo. Tel2615731688. [email protected]

Carmelo PattiMendoza’s most famous garagista.Carmelo Patti himself is often there

to show you around (in Spanish). Fav.Wine: Cabernet Sauvignon from thebarrel. (0261) 498 1379. San Martin2614, Luján de Cuyo.

Don Manuel VillafaneModern winery in the wide openvineyards of southern Maipu.Intense, complex wines. Artexhibition all year long.Ruta 60 s/n, Rodeo del Medio. Maipu.Tel. 2615083067. www.dmvwines.com

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Trivento Located in the bucolic splendour ofsouthern Maipu, Trivento is ownedby the Chilean Concha y Toro. Thismodern winery has a beautifuldeck set amidst the vineyards andoffers bicycle excursions within theproperty. Ruta 60 y Canal Pescara,5517 Maipú, Mendoza. Tel: 0261 4137196. www.trivento.com

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THE WINERY GUIDE

Familia Di TommassoOfficially the second oldest winery inMendoza and still run by Argentinehands. Their charming and rusticrestaurant looks onto the vineyard,

just two steps away. (0261) 524 1829.Urquiza 8136, Russell, Maipú. www.familiaditommaso.com

Familia ZuccardiA professional, far-sighted operation.Attractive restaurant amidst thevines, famous for its asado-stylelunches and generous wine pourings.(0261) 441 0000. R.P. 33, Km 7.5,Maipú. www.familiazuccardi.com

Cepas ElegidasMaking real ‘vinos de autor’, US born

Brennan Firth makes his limitedproduction wines in a small wineryin Maipu. Exclusive and ultra highend wines, a visit and tasting is withthe winemaker himself. To visit CepasElegidas, call Brennan on (0261) 467 1015.

AMP CavaPremium wines made from differentterroirs but all by renowned winemakerKarim Mussi Saffie. Technical tastingsand a close proximity to the citymake it a recommended visit. GómezAdriano 3602. Coquimbito. Maipú - (261)4813201/4668048

Rutini / La RuralWell-stocked museum withinvaluable antiques like cowhidewine presses and buckets. Giant oak

tanks stand in large, cavernous halls.(0261) 497 2013 Ext.125. Montecaseros2625, Coquimbito, Maipú. www.bodegalarural.com.ar

CecchinA family winery using organic andbiodynamic principles where you cansee the entire process from the beautifulgreen vineyards to the minimalintervention winery. (261) 497 6707, MASaez 626, Maipu, www.bodegacecchin.com.ar

CarinaeSmall, charming, French-owned wineryoffering personal tours and well-honedwines. Surrounded by vineyards and

olive trees. (0261) 499 0470. Videla Aranda2899, Cruz de Piedra, Maipú .www.carinaevinos.com

Tempus AlbaA fine modern winery set in the rurallanes of southern Maipu. The rooftopterrace overlooks the vineyard. (0261) 4813501. Perito Moreno 572, Maipú. www.tempusalba.com

LopezPopular, old-style winery with two

museums on the wine. Restaurantoffers gourmet cuisine with a panoramicview. (0261) 497 6554. Ozamis 375, GralGutiérrez, Maipú. www.bodegaslopez.com.ar.Facebook/Bodegas Lopez Oficial

AndelunaThe old-world style tasting room looks

upon dramatic views of vineyardsagainst mountains. (02622) 423 226Ext 113.R.P. 89, Km 11, Gualtallary,Tupungato. www. andeluna.com

AtamisqueThis Uco winery has some great whitewines, a unique stony roof and theybreed their own trout which is servedin the charming restaurant.(0261)156 855184. R.P. 86 (Km 30), San Jose,Tupungato. www.atamisque.com

La AzulSimple, small production winery with notso simple Malbecs and a small traditionalrestaurant. (02622) 423 593.R.P 89 s/n.Agua Amarga, Tupungato. www.bodegalaazul.com

SalenteinDesigned like a temple to wine, this ultra-concept winery includes a modern artgallery, lodge, and chapel set high in the

Andean valley. (02622) 429 500.R.P 89 s/n,Tunuyan. www.killkasalentein.com

O. FournierMost architecturally innovative winerywith rich, concentrated wines. Excellentlunches in the modernist visitor center.(02622) 451 088. Los Indios s/n, La Consulta,San Carlos. www.ofournier.com

Gimenez RiiliA brand new family run affair, part of theexciting Vines of Mendoza project. Thisis a modern winery in a stunning setting.

0261-156317105/ 0261-153470392 - Ruta94 (s/n), Tunuyán. www.gimenezriili.com

Bodega MasiFascinating Italian job in the heart ofTupungato with commanding viewsand commanding wines, especiially theAmarone inspired varietals and unusualblends. Tel. (0261) 156539573. www.masitupungato.com

Domaine Bousquet

Another French transplant to theAndean foothills of Valle de Uco, thissizeable operation produces high altitudeChardonnay, Merlot and Malbec andnow has a popular restaurant servingexcellent tasting menu lunches. Ruta89. Tupungato. www.domainebousquet.com Tel 2615274048

The Vines of MendozaBest described as a cooperative of winelovers around the World who haveall bought a vineyard plot each in UcoValley and are making their own wine

in a central winery with experts suchas Santiago Achaval overseeing. Add tothis a fabulous 5-star hotel and FrancisMallman restaurant and Uco Valley willnever be the same again.Ruta 94, Tunuyan. Tel 261 461 3900

DiamandesModern, imposing winery withmagnificent wines, part of prestigiousFrench group Clos de los Siete. Calle SilvaS/N. Vistaflores. Tel. 0261 4760695.

Finca SopheniaModern, high tech winery in stunninglocation. High quality wines overseen byMatias Michellini. www.sophenia.com.ar Tel. 02622-154-45622

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USEFUL INFORMATIONAIRPORT Tel: 5206000 Accesso Norte s/n. El Plumerillo. SHIPPING WINE Ordinary post will not ship wine and a courier can cost at least U$ 30 a bottle. The mosteconomical way is send it with your checked luggage in a special styrofoam wine box, available at most wine stores or at Trout & Wine, Espejo 266. CRIME Be alert.Mendoza does have crime. Hold on to purses on the street and at restaurants. Avoid carrying valuables. Hostel lockers are not safe. Danger spots: bus terminal andinternet cafes. BIKE TOURS IN MAIPU The most economical way to do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (171, 172 or 173) from Catamarca and Rioja to Urquizastreet (see below) where you’ll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious for dodgy bikes. Check and double check you get a good mount as a puncturecan cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu is urban and not pretty. RECOMMENDED WINERIES Rutini, Tempus Alba, Di Tommasso, Carinae and

certainly Trapiche. When returning have a late lunch at the excellent Casa de Campo. NIGHTCLUBS In most nightclubs you have to queue twice for a drink whichcan get slightly exasperating as the night wears on. It is wise to buy several drink tickets at once for an easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol. Bathrooms are usually illequiped so bring your own toilet paper. Many nightclubs are 200 light years away in Chacras which can cause problems getting home. Clubs rarely get going before2am. MENDOZA EXPATS CLUB An organization which enables Expatriates to meet each other. www.mendozaexpats.org. HAIR DRESSER English speaking andeccentric hairdresser Haisley will do your hairdo right. Paso de los Andes 997 (esq. Julio Roca), tel (261) 641 6047. CHANGING DOLLARS - “Cambio, cambio” shout thearbolitos (money changers) outside Galeria Tonsa (San Martin 1173), the place to go if you want the best street rate. Larger denomination notes are preferred. To makesure you are not getting ripped off check the current rate of the “dolár informal” on www.ambito.com. The Mendoza rate is generally 30 centavos less.


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Documents

Wine Republic Magazine JunJul 16