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Winter 2011

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Arizona Vines & Wines

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PUBLISHED BY Arizona Vines & Wines, LLC

CONTRIBUTING WRITERSGayle Glomski, Maynard James Keenan, Jay Bileti,

Stacey Wittig, Jim Seder, Greg Gonnerman,Rhonni Moffitt, Christina Barrueta,

Alison Bailin-Batz, Jared Porter, Thomas Ale Johnson, Jacque Cook

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERSRhonni Moffitt, Harry Merkin,

Lei Li, Tim Hilcove, Alison Bailin-Batz,Holly Baumann Photography,

Stacey Wittig, Brett Cook, Joyce Owens,Nick Calderone, Mike Barnacastle,

Susan Beach, Monica Castillo,Thomas Ale Johnson

ADVERTISING SALES [email protected]

SUBSCRIPTIONS $19.95 Annual Subscription

Four quarterly issues [email protected]

CONTACT THE PUBLISHER Josh & Rhonni Moffitt

(480) 306-5623 [email protected]

Arizona Vines & Wines

ABOUT THIS MONTH’S COVERThe cover photo was taken on August 3rd, 2008 at Sonoita

Vineyards AugustFest by Rhonni Moffitt. A photo of the beautiful

roses that grow next to their vines. The roses are there to serve as an early indicator of pest problems.

NOW AVAILABLEON NEWSSTANDS

AT THESE FINE LOCATIONS

The Arizona wine excitement continues its momentum! It’s official Governor Jan Brewer proclaimed the first week of November Arizona Wine Week. Although we don’t recommend that anyone enjoy Arizona wines for only one week, it served as a great way to bring the celebration of Arizona wines to the Phoenix valley.

The week started with the final leg of the “Great Arizona Grape Stomp” 5K series, held in Phoenix along the canal. Josh was one of three runners who competed in all four races in the series, even coming in first

place in the men’s race in Willcox! The 5K series served to be a great way to stay in shape, drink some wine, make new friends and support the Arizona wine industry.

The Arizona Republic took over the annual Arizona Wine Competition, helping our local winemakers and growers get the recognition they deserve. The awards were presented at the Celebration of Arizona Winemakers Reception at Quiessence on November 5th. Chef Greg LaPrad and his staff coordinated a spectacular evening showcasing small plates paired with one of the award winning wines at each station.

The grand finale was the second annual Arizona Wine Growers Festival at the Farm held in the pecan grove at the Farm at South Mountain.  A beautiful day put the cherry on top of a wine-filled, extraordinary week.

Now that we’re enjoying the holiday season, be sure to put some Arizona wine on your table! Arizona has some amazing light red blends that would pair well with turkey or ham. Or maybe you’re enjoying a holiday prime rib – well, there is no shortage of full-bodied reds to share the table with a nice piece of meat! New Year’s Celebration? No problem, check out sparkling wines from many Arizona producers, including this year’s Arizona Republic Dessert Wine Gold Award winner: Sonoita Vineyards Peach Sparkles (be sure to read the Featured Winemaker article in this issue on Sonoita’s vintner, Fran Lightly).

Lastly, don’t forget your Arizona wines for Valentine’s Day. Want to surprise your sweetie with a unique way to celebrate this special day? How about a romantic wine tasting adventure! Now’s the perfect excuse to head on out to wine country, stay in a romantic B&B and share some intimate moments with your loved one. Or check out one of the many Arizona wineries that have special events celebrating this day of romance (find events on our website).

We’ll catch up with you next spring!

Josh & Rhonni Moffitt

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Fran Lightly of Sonoita Vineyards by Jay Bileti12 FEATURED WINEMAKER

Nagual del Marzo by Maynard James Keenan10 THE STORY BEHIND THE WINE

Wings, Wine & Southeastern Arizona’s Old WestBy Stacey Wittig

14 VAGABONDING LULU

by Greg Gonnerman16 LOW DESERT VITICULTURE

by Rhonni Moffitt18 ARIZONA WINE WEEK

Sonoran Brewing Company62 FEATURED BREWERY

66Easy listing of all Arizona wineriesQUICK REFERENCE

SOUTHEASTERN ARIZONA

NORTHERN ARIZONA

SONOITA/ELGIN203240

TOUR WINE COUNTRYHana Japanese by Christina Barrueta

46 RESTAURANT SPOTLIGHT

Wine Related Fun Around the State50 EVENTS CALENDAR

Where to enjoy wine in the city & beyond54 WINE IN THE CITY

by Alison Bailin-Batz52 EVENT UPDATE

Jared Porter of The Parlor Pizzeria58 CHEF’S TABLE

By Thomas Ale Johnson60 POINT OF BREW

Photo courtesy of Harry Merkin Merkin Vineyards

Unique Perspectives on Wine in Arizona by Gayle Glomski8 GRAPE PERSPECTIVES

By Jacque Cook64 WINE & CHOCOLATE

by JIm Seder30 WINE SPEAKING A STORY

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itting on top of a small mountain overlooking Oak Creek and the field that would become known as Page Springs Vineyards, Eric told me life with him would be

hard. He was a farmer. He was a hard worker and to be with him would be a challenge. I was reminded of this by his friend and mentor Dick Landis who originally motivated Eric to explore wine making. Dick explained to me that it would take someone special to be Eric’s partner because Eric was going to do some incredible things.

What I saw in Eric was a man who had a love for people and a love for life. I fell in love and was willing to be challenged. I was excited to have a partner who I knew in my gut was true to himself, true to the universe and put actions behind words.

In the beginning, although I worked full time and taught yoga on the side, our schedule was loose. We played with our kids and dog in the tall grass before the vines were planted. There was plenty of time to hike, draw, swim in the creek, read bedtime stories and take short road trips. Family dinners were common and plenty of visitors stopped by to enjoy our scene. Our first harvest came and put more parenting and housework responsibilities on me, yet other than a few nights of Eric being away, all was well...I could handle this challenge...Martin Ray (the legendary Cruz Mountain vintner who introduced Pinot Noir to us all) was right, this was the good life.

The land purchase for Page Springs was frustrating to say the least, and there were many problems with contractors and construction. Eric began to wonder if this vision and dream was meant to be. I was the cheerleader reminding him that if anyone could do it, it would be him. As the building continued and those problems began to dissipate, the endless hearings and conflicts with the county arose. It was hard to sit on the sidelines and watch Eric have to fight to establish a farm and business that would ultimately build a stronger community.

I tried hard not to react to the emotional stresses that were plaguing Eric and his good intentions. He began to be away more due to meetings and would often work late into the night on his computer as I slept. Commuting to the winery from our home in Sedona was making things harder for our family. I would pack up our kids, dog, food, activities for the day and drive to the winery. It started to feel like we were living out of our car.

We soon found a house close to the vineyard. During the three-month harvest season, Eric would work all day, come home to eat dinner, say goodnight to the kids and return to work until breakfast. He’d greet the kids to a new morning and wish them well at school before heading to work again. As hard as

that schedule was for Eric, this effort helped keep balance in our family and is still a tradition today. At the time, Eric had about five employees and was working at least 10 different positions in the company. The wine club was a large part of Eric’s vision to bring people together and it needed a lot of attention. I decided to step in and help. I stopped working my full-time job and became a full-time volunteer. I was handed a bulging manila folder filled with random applications of people who wanted to join the wine club. I had no prior experience in the wine industry and had never even been to a vineyard, winery or tasting room.

Even with my lack of wine experience, I felt like I had adequate organizational skills and could research other wine clubs to use as models for our club. I was up for the challenge.

I feel Eric and I worked well together on the club. One of our employees noticed that we fed off each other; we’d both collapse rather then not finish a job. As the club became a bit more organized, we began to host events and the ideas kept rolling in. Club member events began in which both Eric and I were handling the planning, the set up, the hosting, and the clean up for whole weekends at a time. The wine club packing

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Instead of being solely known as Eric Glomski’s wife, I was myself again.“ ”

GRAPE PERSPECTIVES:

Article by Gayle Glomski/Images Provided by Page Springs Cellars

The Winemaker’s Wife

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At one of the dinners, the idea to travel nationwide with Maynard Keenan (partner of AZ Stronghold and a well known musician) , host bottle signings and share the great wine that was being made in Arizona came to be. It was a great idea yet Eric was gone for the most part of six months and when finished, would head into harvest which is typically three months of 16-20 hour work days. He would make it a point to call each night while traveling and it was hard not to feel a bit jealous and insecure. As Eric was touring he was squeezing in other dinners and meetings with restaurants and wine shops to build the brand. He would tell me about the fine foods, wines, interesting people, women, the request to sign a woman’s breasts, and the lavish hotel rooms he was staying in. The conversation would die when I’d tell him about my day of plunging toilets, cleaning vomit, eating leftovers for the third day in a row and disciplining the kids. A full blown documentary then developed from this traveling and it tipped the scales for me. I was originally against the film because I knew it would be taking more of Eric’s time away from us and would encroach on our privacy. After

meeting the film crew, I felt better about the project and supported it the best I could as it took flight.Our lives seemed to be on two different paths and I was wondering what the allure of coming home was for Eric in comparison to being on the road or at the winery. I had no idea how to support Eric and I wasn’t taking care of myself. After a few major wake-up calls, I dove into a deeper yoga practice. When I began to be true to myself, the doors opened (as they always do) and I began teaching yoga full-time again. I began hiking again. I took a part-time job separate from the

winery. Instead of being solely known as Eric Glomski’s wife, I was myself again. Not the woman behind the man, not the old ball and chain, yet a woman who walked hand-in-hand with her husband because she loves him, believes in him and most importantly believes in herself.

Harvest has begun again. It is now 2010. Over the past few years it has become a tradition that I work the midnight shift in the cellar. Alongside my parental responsibilities, domestic responsibilities, teaching yoga and working part-time, I now say goodnight to the kids after dinner and head to the cellar to work into the early morning hours. Yes, this lifestyle is challenging and, yes, I was warned, yet I have never felt so happy and fulfilled in my life. Thanks Eric for inviting me to be a part of the challenge.

and shipping process was done by hand. Each box was hand built, hand filled, each label individually printed and it was all done by me. I was simultaneously volunteering in the vineyard, on the bottling line, hand labeling, whatever needed to be done, I was there. This began to take a toll on our kids. I was picking them up late from school and was alternating between grilled cheese sandwiches and pasta with jarred spaghetti sauce for dinners. Eric and I agreed that I was in over my head and needed to back down. So I let go of the wine club, continued to volunteer with smaller jobs and began to visit local hotels and B and B’s to market the winery. This detachment from the winery was hard for me. I felt like I was on the sidelines. I had been invited to play but was now on the bench again. I wanted to be a part of the winery, the events, the people, the drama of harvest and I most importantly didn’t want to disappoint Eric or the kids.

As the winery grew, more employees were hired and things began to mellow out which brought the long term dreams closer to reality. Now, Arizona Stronghold began to unfold, a brand new second business with just as much startup complications, if not more. Now Eric was gone during the off-season as well as harvest. It felt like I was a single mother again and maybe because Eric was gone so much, I felt more responsibility to be more present with the kids. I was only teaching one yoga class, distancing myself from people in general and threw myself full time into being a stay-at-home mom. While I had the pleasure of being a full time parent (and the sole disciplinarian), Eric was becoming a mini celebrity.

Eric was constantly being invited to winemaker dinners and other events and I would go along just so we would have a little time together. We were seated at a table for two at the majority of these dinners and Eric would talk prior to each course to the group, circulate to individual tables throughout the meal, then fall asleep on the car ride home. I soon decided to decline these invitations and our time alone became rare. When we did try to go out to dinner on our own it became work because someone always recognized Eric and began talking shop. I was for the most part completely invisible even after I was introduced.

Glomski Family

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THE STORY BEHIND THE WINE

Article by Maynard James Keenan

Merkin East Vineyard & Nagual del Marzo

ny wine worth remembering comes with a story. In many cases the story is almost as important as the wine, whether it’s a tale of the unique terroir, or a particular forward

thinking winemaker, or a farmer growing or producing against all odds in war zones or on cliffs, and so on. This is one such story. It’s an account of what happened on a specific piece of land in 2008. This is the story of Merkin Vineyard’s “Merkin East Vineyard” and the 2008 Caduceus “Nagual del Marzo.” But before I get into that, allow me to digress.

I had dinner with my family a few years ago at Bern’s Steakhouse in Tampa, Florida. The wine list is legendary. Not that I ever need one, but it’s a very good reason for a road trip. We had a bottle of 1941 Chateau Latour. That they even have a 1941 Chateau Latour is why this list is legendary. So take a moment. Think about all that’s happened from that year’s harvest up until now. Think of what was happening in and around those vineyards, the countryside, the cities, and the surrounding countries. Ponder what was going in the hearts and minds of the people working those fields. Consider how difficult it must have been in the midst of a full scale World War to secure even the most basic of essential materials. Corks, capsules, barrels, bottles,

and so on, most likely required some serious black market negotiations. The bottle we had was clear glass. In those uncertain times you do what you must and use what you have. Flexibility is a crucial trait to embrace if you want to survive this supposedly romantic winemaking endeavor, as well as a calm demeanor in the face of chaos. Which brings us to the story of Merkin Vineyard’s “Merkin East Vineyard” and the 2008 Caduceus “Nagual del Marzo.”

This 3-acre vineyard site is located just above flood plain along Oak Creek with an elevation of roughly

3500 feet. In the spring of 2004 we planted Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. By late spring of 2005, it became very apparent that many of these vines were not waking up. They were in fact dead. (Take a moment and hit up YouTube for a look at the Monty Python “Pet Shop” sketch for a bit of comic relief.) The lower three quarters on the vineyard block had been wiped out by winterkill. In the following months it became apparent that we might also be in danger of late spring frosts. The vineyard sits at the base of a large cliff face and just on the edge of a flood plain. The morning sun touches most sites

as soon as it peeks over the horizon. But here the cliff blocks this site from sun for an additional hour or two. So any cold morning air is not immediately chased away. Rather it gets to linger and do whatever damage it pleases. In spite of all this, the upper quarter of the block survived. We still had to fight off the early fall and late spring frosts, but at least the vines were alive.

By the spring of 2008 we had flowers and therefore the potential for fruit. Not much fruit from either varietal, but enough to see what this site had to offer. In theory we would have a 50/50 blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. As we approached the harvest

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Any wine worth remembering comes with a story. In many cases the story is almost as important as the wine . . .“ ”

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season, it became apparent that the sugar levels on both blocks were fairly close. We decided that since there was so little fruit, we would shoot for harvesting them together. Not the best decision we’ve ever made. As harvest approached, the Sangiovese got ahead of the Cab. In addition to having some sun exposure issues, this site also has a relatively shallow water table. So as harvest approached and the sugars levels rose, so did the potential for bunch rot. And as one would expect during monsoon season, we got hit with rain. It was too late to change gears now. We had to pick everything. But by the time we got the crew together, three quarters of the Sangiovese was lost to bunch rot. In addition, the Cab sugar levels were pretty low. So, of course, the phenolics of the grape were behind and a bit on the vegetal side of the fence. So here we are in 2008. A couple hundred pounds of barely making it beyond bunch rot Sangiovese and few hundred pounds of green character under ripe Cab Sauv. For the purpose of establishing a benchmark, this is what we would consider a worst-case scenario. And although the wine turned out solid, the importance of its quality is secondary. What is of primary importance is what sets this wine apart from previous and subsequent vintages. All of the aforementioned factors colored this season’s wine, but not to the point of disaster. In fact, some of these elements, which on paper are to be avoided at all costs, are what make the 2008 vintage special. And it may never happen this same way again. Cheers.

Courtesy of Harry Merkin

ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM

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FEATURED WINEMAKER: Fran Lightly of Sonoita Vineyards

pon first meeting the tall and substantial Fran Lightly you are certain you’ve seen him before. More precisely he looks like someone you know but it’s hard to… Santa Claus! Yeah, that’s

it. If St. Nick were to drop a few pounds and trim his beard some, you would be left with Fran Lightly. High, meaty cheek bones — almost certainly ruddy in cold weather — friendly eyes and a warm, cheerful smile. A perfect face for someone who brings joy to the world by coaxing the magic out of wine grapes.

Fran’s career path didn’t include toy manufacturing at the North Pole, but it is long and diverse. He grew up on a farm in Minnesota before attending Macalester College in St. Paul, his gaze fixed on medicine. After earning a degree in Chemistry and abandoning plans to be a doctor he went to work for Honeywell, one of the largest employers in Minneapolis. His division built munitions for the military and after tiring of that in 1971 he went to work for a small company that had developed some innovative water quality technology. Fran enjoyed the small company atmosphere where he was able to make significant individual contributions, a motivator that accompanied him his entire career.After 12 years the company had grown uncomfortably large and Fran was looking for the next challenge. Unsure what that might be, he and his wife Kathy decided to take some time off to do what us 60’s kids used to call “finding ourselves.” They traveled to Yuma, AZ to visit some relatives and then worked their way up the California coast

where they got their first real exposure to wine and wineries. Both Fran and Kathy were food lovers and wine was a natural extension. When they returned to Minnesota they decided to open a catering business.

“Lightly Epicurean” opened in 1984 and, as most of Fran’s endeavors, was an unqualified success. In 1990, with revenues of more than a million dollars and a large company feel, it was time to again move on. He was contacted by the principals in the water quality business he’d worked with previously and asked to go to Phoenix and oversee a new company they had recently acquired. Fran and Kathy spent two years on that assignment and in their free time visited small wine regions

such as Temecula, CA and McMinnville, OR. They really liked the feel and culture of family-run wineries in small wine regions. This would be the next challenge.

In 1993 the couple moved to Fresno to study Enology at California State University - Fresno. While UC Davis is the more famous and prestigious of California’s wine schools, the Fresno program is smaller and more hands-on, a much better fit for the Lightlys. Both Fran and Kathy studied winemaking and as part of a class exercise they made wine for a developer who was creating an interesting project that married residential real estate, golf and wine. The development was in Patterson, CA, just south of Livermore, and the owner was pleased with the winemaking demonstrated by Fran and Kathy. When the development project was ready to bring on a full-time winemaker, Fran and Kathy, having just finished their studies, were offered jobs. With no desire to be a small part of a large winery, and as always motivated by individual contribution, Fran accepted the job as winemaker.

After ten years of successful wine production for the California resort, it was time to move on. The increasingly intolerant environmentalist movement in California made things difficult for developers and

UBy Jay Bileti, International Wine Master

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before things got too uncomfortable, the Lightlys struck out to find a new small winery in a small region to work for. They took a hard look at the wine countries in Texas, New Mexico and, to our good fortune, Arizona. As have many, the Lightlys fell in love with Sonoita Vineyards upon their visit in 2006. It happened that at that time founder Gordon Dutt was looking for a winemaker. Whether serendipity or fate, the Lightlys became part of the Arizona Wine scene.

During his tenure at Sonoita Vineyards the wines have gone from strength to strength, winning awards in competitions and garnering recognition in the press. Fran runs all aspects of the winemaking operation and was recently elected Vice President of Sonoita Vineyards Ltd. by its shareholders. Kathy manages the tasting room operations and provides winemaking assistance and advice. One of

Fran’s favorite activities is hosting winery tours and tastings. It gives him a chance to connect with his customers and share some of his considerable knowledge.

Sonoita Vineyards offers a wide range of wines and wine styles to satisfy any taste. There are light, slightly sweet wines sure to please those that enjoy a simple tipple. There are also very serious, complex wines which win awards in national competitions and impress the most discerning wine connoisseur. Visitors should try all the wines Sonoita Vineyards offers, but here are two, one from each category, to keep a special eye out for.

Peach Sparkles. ($20) This wine hits 10 on the fun meter. It is an off-dry sparkling wine made from Colombard – a white grape variety that Sonoita Vineyards has a magic touch with. Just before bottling a touch of peach extract is added and the finished wine has a delightful hint of peach. Unique and tasty. Start a party off with plenty of this wine, by the pool perhaps, and watch the fun. This wine just won the Gold Medal in the Arizona Republic Wine Competition.

MeCaSah. ($29) This is a serious red wine made in a traditional style; by that I mean not too intense, not too alcoholic and with a touch of astringency and grip. It is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah – from which it derives it name. Strong berry/cherry, oak and cedar flavors with a tart, slightly tannic finish. Fantastic wine with roasted or grilled meats.

290 Elgin-Canelo RoadElgin, AZ

(520) 455-5893www.SonoitaVineyards.com

A Little About Sonoita VineyardsSonoita Vineyards is a 25-acre vineyard situated on the south side of a hillside, surrounded by rolling grasslands and several mountain ranges. The hillside planting protects the vines from harsh winds and frost. The grape varietals grown at Sonoita Vineyards are Chardonnay, Mission, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir.

“At Sonoita vineyards, we define sustainability broadly, seeking not only to be responsible stewards of the land, but also to preserve this land for future generations of our family. There is nothing static about this view of sustainability - it requires innovation and action. We believe that preserving the unique ecosystem of Sonoita is essential to wine quality, as well as to the health of our family and business. In 1976, Dr. Gordon Dutt developed a system of water harvesting utilizing the hillside and building berms that would both reduce the effects of erosion and reduce the overall amount of water needed to irrigate. It has been our policy, since inception, to recycle all bottles and cardboard at the local recycling center. We also compost all wine making by-products by returning the grape skins, stems and seeds to the vineyard for use as a fertilizer, which in turn reduces waste.”

Dr. Gordon Dutt planted Arizona’s first commercial vineyard in 1979 and opened the winery in 1983. Starting with an annual production of 300 gallons, Sonoita Vineyards is now producing over 10,000 gallons of wine per year.

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VAGABONDING LULU

Article & Photos by Stacey Wittig, Travel Writer

Wings, Wine and Southeastern Arizona’s Old West

he still, black Dos Cabezas Mountains are silhouetted by a tangerine-colored dawn. As I watch January’s feathery clouds, more silhouettes catch my eye … and ear. These

moving, noisy, winged specks rise to the radiant skies above. I point binoculars towards the honking cacophony and their magnification transforms the specks into a spectacle. Thousands of Sandhill cranes are lifting to start their day of feeding around Willcox, AZ.

The big birds winter in remote Sulphur Springs Valley which is also known for producing excellent Arizona wine. More wine lover than bird watcher, I’ve decided to combine exploring southeastern Arizona’s wine country with the annual Wings Over Willcox (WOW) birding festival. The January birding extravaganza has attracted international crowds for almost twenty years. The main attraction is the 100,000 wintering Sandhill cranes, but there are 500 more bird species to see, historical sites to hike and Arizona wines to taste.

Earlier this morning we joined one of the WOW field trips led by birding experts, wildlife specialists and professional photographers. On the 20-mile ride to Apache Station Wildlife Area our tour guide coached, “Birding etiquette deems that you walk BEHIND birders who are looking through their binoculars.”

“Oh, so there is etiquette in birding just like in tasting rooms,” whispered my friend Susan who elbows tasters who wrinkle noses after sipping. We unloaded at mystic first light to set up cameras and scopes around a marshy area.

“Sandhill cranes stand in shallow water overnight to avoid coyotes,” explained our birding guru. I heard the cranes, but in pre-dawn light they looked like round, low sagebrush

T bushes. But soon the sun came up and before my eyes each sagebrush bush pulled a head from beneath a wing and turned into a red-faced, white crane. Almost immediately the cranes lifted off. The sound of thousands of flapping wings cast a spell over us grounded observers.

And now the honking specks fade into the distance and we load the bus to return to town for breakfast.

After sausage and pancakes prepared by Willcox Rotarians, we take in a free seminar “Sky Island Region of North America: Biological Hotspot.” Later, grabbing to-go cups at the local’s hangout Bucko’s Coffee, we’re off to Chiricahua National Monument for a hike through what Apaches called “The Land of Standing up Rocks.”

Huge rock pinnacles conjure images of human shapes, supernatural beings or tall, slender Hoch wine bottles. The eight-mile scenic drive through the park takes us from the “sea of grass” lowlands to the canyon forest and then to the trailhead atop the “sky island.” I recommend an après-hike glass of Sky Island Grenache at Lawrence Dunham Vineyards just 15 miles south of the park’s entrance. (Call 602-320-1485 for appointment.)

A Taste of the Old West

Savor the area’s rich Native American history with a visit to Amerind Foundation, a museum of archaeology, history and culture. Nearby the famous Apache leader Cochise fought the U.S. Cavalry from Cochise Stronghold -- now part of Coronado National Forest. Picturesque rock formations and an interpretive trail help hikers understand why Cochise considered this a stronghold. Later, toast the warrior’s resilience with Arizona Stronghold’s Tazi or Nachise named after Cochise’s sons and made from grapes grown in the Sulphur Springs Valley.

Other enjoyable attractions include the Rex Allen Arizona Cowboy Museum in Willcox, just down the street from Carlson Creek Vineyard’s tasting room and the Rustic Rooster Boutique. “Pick your own” fruits and veggies at Apple Annie’s Orchard (open July through October).

Stacey “Vagabonding Lulu” Wittig is a freelance travel writer based in Northern Arizona. Learn more about her travel adventures at www.vagabondinglulu.com.

Hikers at Chiricahua National Monument near southeastern Arizona wine country.

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Have longer than a weekend? Drive to Coronado National Memorial that commemorates Francisco Vásquez de Coronado’s 1540 expedition. The Spanish conquistador came to these lands in search of the “Seven Cities of Cibola” believing to find streets paved with gold. After an unsuccessful quest, Coronado returned to Mexico City dejected. Perhaps if he had discovered Coronado Vineyards’ Cibola Gold white wine, he would have died a happy man.

Taste Cibola Gold for yourself by dining at Coronado Vineyards in Willcox -- reportedly by far the best in town. Open for dinner Thursday through Saturday and Monday evenings or for Sunday brunch 11:00 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Be romanced by the Old West when you stay in a cabin or casita at Grapevine Canyon Ranch, or a cottage or yurt at Cochise Stronghold Bed and Breakfast. For a real off-the-beaten-path retreat, try Sunglow Ranch.

Apache Station Wildlife Area Open daily 5 a.m. to 6 p.m. November 1 – March 15 Open weekends only March 16 – October 31

Coronado Vineyards 2909 E. Country Club Drive, Willcox 520-384-2993 www.coronadovineyards.com

Lawrence Dunham Vineyards 13922 S. Kyukendall Cutoff Road, Pearce 520-82-GRAPE www.lawrencedunhamvineyards.com

Wings Over Willcox January 12 – 16, 2011 www.wingsoverwillcox.com

Sandhill cranes lift towards dawn and begin a day of feeding in the Sulphur Springs Valley.

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VARIETAL CONSIDERATIONS FOR LOW DESERT LOCATIONSArticle by Greg Gonnerman, www.AZWineMakers.com

here’s an ideal range of elevations for growing wine grapes in Arizona. Depending on location, from about 3000 feet up to around 5200 feet, most varieties thrive.

Above this range short summers and late spring frosts make growing grapes difficult, but not impossible. Many books have been written on the topic of cold climate viticulture. However, if you’re below 3000 feet (and in the desert) there’s little information available. Table grapes have a long track record in the lower deserts, but there just hasn’t been much interest in growing wine grapes at these elevations. Frankly, many have assumed that it wasn’t possible.

There are some significant challenges in the lower deserts. The intense mid-summer heat and low humidity can cause grapes to desiccate or sunburn, acidity to drop too far, and grapes to ripen too quickly, leaving color and tannin lacking. Our mild winters aren’t cold enough to provide an adequate dormancy period which can cause uneven ripening and impact fruit quality. And in some locations monsoon rains can promote fungal diseases.

Although not much has been published about desert viticulture, there are some recommendations to consider. The Master Gardener program at the University of Arizona recommends Barbera, Petite Sirah, French Columbard, Emerald Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc.

One can also look to southern Europe for ideas. Varieties from Italy, southern France, Spain and Portugal are good candidates. There are likely several good desert grapes among the thousands of varieties indigenous to Greece. Unfortunately, the quarantine requirements make importing new plant material difficult.

The search for an ideal desert grape has taken some in the direction of hybrid and native varieties. Experimental plantings of Léon Millot in west Texas and Clinton in Scottsdale have both done well. These varieties ripen so early that they miss much of the heat. Black Spanish,

an accidental hybrid, is favored by some desert growers as well. Despite these successes, native and hybrid grapes don’t always thrive here and some exhibit undesirable characteristics. For example, Concord Seedless produces small seeds when grown in our heat.

If you’re looking for a good table grape, Thompson Seedless reigns supreme. Flame Seedless does well here also, and if you want a native (Concord-like) variety, Mars Seedless is showing promise.

Generally wine grape varieties that are well suited to the lower deserts have:• More vigorous growth • Durability, for the lack of a better word• Good color/tannin development• Higher than average acidity• Less compact clusters

The single most important attribute seems to be vigor. A vigorous vine can produce a denser canopy (leaves and canes) which can shade grapes and provide protection from the sun. Nebbiolo and Tempranillo are examples of vigorous vines that thrive in our climate.

But some varieties seem to do well here without a dense canopy. Their grapes continue ripening slowly without showing signs of desiccation or heat stress. This may be due to the thickness of the skins, the size of the berries, or the ability of the vine to stay ahead of transpiration. Among those that seem to hold up well are Petite Sirah, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Cabernet is an unusual grape for the desert and a wine made exclusively from it would likely not compare well to one from a more moderate climate, but in limited trials it has ripened well with few issues.

In some respects white wine grapes can be less problematic. Uneven ripening can cause a few green or raisined berries at harvest, but with whites this may actually add a bit of complexity. The heat may however reduce volatile aromatics, those molecules that make a wine smell and taste so good. Not surprisingly Muscat is a popular grape in desert vineyards; it’s likely the most aromatic white grape on the planet.

Low acidity can be a real problem with many varieties. Of course this can be addressed pre-ferment by the addition of tartaric acid, but a number of desert grape growers are trying Barbera for this reason. This is a red grape from Italy that’s known for producing high acid wines, and the early results here are good.

We may never find an ideal desert wine grape. Ultimately we may need to develop blends that mitigate issues with desert grown grapes. Some varieties, like Grenache and Nebbiolo do well here, but they can be severely lacking in color. Tempranillo loves the heat and produces dark, flavorful fruit, but the acidity can be far too low at harvest. Blending may provide a solution.

In time we may find several wine grape varieties that out perform all others, or we may develop our own outstanding blends, but already there are a number of varieties that are showing good results.

T

Greg Gonnerman is an amateur grape grower and winemaker in Mesa, Arizona, and he’s also a founding member of AZ Wine Makers (www.azwinemakers.com)

Barbera, a promising variety for desert vineyards.

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16 ARIZONA VINES & WINES - WINTER 2010 ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM

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THECOLLECTOR'SSOURCE

THECOLLECTOR'SSOURCE

390 N. State Route 89A Sedona, Arizona 86336 928.204.1765 www. GoldensteinArt.com

Voted Sedona’s Best Gallery!2008, 2009, 2010

FINE ART & FURNITURE

SCULPTURE GARDEN

JEWELRY

LOCAL & REGIONAL ARTISTS

1st FRIDAY ARTIST RECEPTIONSDavid DeVaryOriginal Paintings &

Fine Art Prints

Page 18: Winter 2011

HIGHLIGHTS FROM THE FIRST ANNUAL ARIZONA WINE WEEK

October 30th - November 6th, 2010

November 6th:Arizona Wine Growers Festival at The Farm

Under the Pecan Grove at The Farm at South Mountain

the Arizona Wine Growers held their Second Annual

Festival at The Farm. Festival-goers enjoyed beautiful

weather, flowing wine and the opportunity to meet

the winemakers from over 20 Arizona wineries. Two

educational seminars afforded guests a chance to blind

taste wines, helping to determine the People’s Choice

wines of the year as well as conducting their own

recreation of the Judgment of Arizona. The day ended

with a live auction bringing in over $30,000 to the non-

profit AWGA. Auction lots included winemaker-chef

pairings, allowing the winner and five guests to enjoy

dinner prepared by a well-known Arizona chef and wine

poured by an equally impressive AZ winemaker.

November 5th:Celebration of Arizona Winemakers Reception at QuiessenceOver 100 guests enjoyed tastes of the winning wines from the Arizona Republic Wine Competition. Paired with the wines were yummy treats prepared by Chef Greg LaPrad and his crew. Richard Ruelas from the Arizona Republic and Todd Bostock, President of the Arizona Wine Growers Association, presented this year’s award winners with their ribbons and trophies. Kent Callaghan won the Rootstock Award from the association for his commitment to the Arizona wine industry. The crowd mingled with winemakers from all over the state, while celebrating the accomplishments of the past year.

November 1st:Governor Brewer officially proclaims Arizona Wine Week Arizona Wine Week includes celebrations all week long about AZ wine, including winemaker dinners, special prices on local wines throughout Arizona and extended media coverage.

Press conference announcing Arizona Wine Week.Robert Carlson, Pavle Milic, Sam Pillsbury, Kelly & Todd Bostock, Rhonni Moffitt, Curt Dunham, Kari Zemper Phot

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October 30th:

Great Arizona Grape Stomp/Final Stomp: Phoenix

Over 100 racers gathered in Phoenix to run a 5K on the Canal.

After the race, fun & food were had at The Duce. Then racers

headed over for a free wine tasting at the Downtown Phoenix

Public Market.

Celebration & Festival at the Farm Photos are by Holly Baumann Photography

18 ARIZONA VINES & WINES - WINTER 2010 ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM

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Juniper Well Ranch Vineyards Juniper Well Ranch and Vineyards is located at the base of Granite Mountain in Skull Valley just minutes from Prescott. Their delicious handmade wines will

delight you as you enjoy a glass on their Fiesta Patio or a bottle in a charming and private log cabin in front of a cozy fire. Their high altitude vineyards

boast Tempranillo, Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon & Sauvignon Blanc. www.juniperwellranch.com

Alcantara VineyardsAlcantara Vineyards is a dream venture created by Owner Barbara Predmore. Barbara and her husband Bob started the vineyard to provide their family and partners the opportunity to work and develop a vineyard community and winery, making wines that are comparable to the best of

California and Europe. Barbara had spent four years of research and diligence using the best consultants from the University of Arizona and UC Davis, as well as support from her family at the noted Martin-Weyrich Vineyards in Central California. Alcantara Vineyard is perched on 87 acres of sloping terrain off the Verde River and Oak Creek. The Tuscan Farmhouse serves as the tasting room, where they host the many friends and guests that visit from around the globe. Check out their “green” winery building when you visit! Explore their website at www.alcantaravineyard.com.   

Javelina Leap Winery

Javelina Leap Vineyard & Winery is located just ten miles outside the scenic town of Sedona, adjacent to the green belt of lower Oak Creek, across from an Audubon bird sanctuary and state fish hatchery. The property was part of the historic ranches in a valley known as Page Springs for its abundance of natural springs. The estate vineyards are on the slopes of an ancient volcano. These soils lend intense characters of minerals, earth and fruit to the wines produced here. The owners and winemakers Rod and Cynthia Snapp welcome you to their newly remodeled tasting room that is fashioned after a turn of the century western saloon. Many accolades and media attention have been given to the wines they produce here. They ask that you share these handcrafted wines with your friends and loved ones. The tasting room is open daily from 11am till 5pm. For more information visit their web site at www.javelinaleapwinery.com.

Oak Creek Vineyards

Deb Wahl, owner of Oak Creek Vineyards & Winery, has heard many times that “good wine grows on gentle slopes with a river nearby” which is why her vineyard is located near beautiful Sedona, across from Oak Creek. In the higher elevations of the property, they grow Syrah & Merlot and in the lower portion they produce Zinfandel and Chardonnay. There is great sun exposure and currently they have approximately 4000 plants on just over ten acres. They produce full-bodied flavorful reds and lean whites in small batches, giving individual attention to each barrel. Visit www.oakcreekvineyards.net to learn more!

Caduceus CellarsMaynard James Keenan created this label for his northern Arizona vineyards, Merkin Vineyards. One day while sipping some fine wine on his patio in the hills of Jerome, Arizona, he realized that the climate in the area was similar to the climates where some of his favorite wines were produced. Why not grow a vineyard here? When asked about the type of wine he intended to grow, he

answered, “My art and music has been described as ‘thick, dense, rich complex, engaging, emotional, and spiritual,’ by those who are fans. And an ‘acquired taste’ for those kind others who are not.” He felt that Arizona aligned with this description and that they were a match made in heaven. “Surely these qualities will be reflected in the wine that Arizona will present

to us”. (Oh, did we forget to mention he is the lead singer for Tool). His wines can be purchased at select retail outlets as well as their tasting room in Jerome. Also available online at www.caduceus.org.

Echo CanyonJon Marcus, a former attorney from Detroit, bought 32 acres of fertile land just outside Sedona. About 100 years ago, Echo Canyon was home to a farm that produced fruits and vegetables for the mining camps in Jerome. Nestled along the banks of the pristine Oak Creek, the rock-walled vineyards have produced wines that rival the finest made anywhere. Varietals include Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet, Cabernet Franc and Zinfandel. Also check out Jon’s other venture Crop Circle Winery in Willcox. For more info go to www.echocanyonwinery.com.

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Granite Creek VineyardsFrom a love of the land sprang a relationship with grapes that culminated in superb, award

winning, living wines with no added sulfites.  Granite Creek Vineyards was founded in 1974 when owners Kit and Robin Hoult planted grapevines and began the 36-year legacy of Arizona’s first and only Certified Organic Vineyard. Dedicated to environmental stewardship, Granite Creek Vineyards is a scenic environment to enjoy the ambiance of the vineyard’s rural roots.  Relax with picnics and great live music on this historic 100-year-old Arizona farmstead that has been nurtured to become sips of the enduring pleasures of fine wine.  To learn more visit their website at www.granitecreekvineyards.com.  

Sycamore CanyonWinery

Sycamore Canyon Winery is located on the banks of Oak Creek just south of Sedona. Their mission statement is to create the finest quality wines available anywhere in the world. The location of the vineyard was chosen because of the perfect microclimate for growing grapes: plenty of sunshine, clean water and

a cold breeze that comes down from the Mogollon Rim which cools the grapes off every evening. All of their custom wines can be sampled at the Art of Wine located in Sedona at the Hyatt Piñon Pointe Shopping Center. They are open seven days a week. www.artowine.com

San DominiqueAn Arizona original, San Dominique is nestled at 4600 feet, in the hills south of the Verde Valley. Atop a hill, just off the freeway, you can’t miss the

winery and tasting room. Also passionate about garlic, you’ll find garlic flavored “everything” here - even wine! San Dominique is home to Bill Staltari, cellarmaster and garlic purveyor. Winemaking has been a tradition in Bill Staltari’s family, stemming back to Calabria, Italy where his father, Joseph, learned the art from his father, who in turn was taught by his father and his father’s father . . . through five generations. Be sure to visit Bill next time you’re passing through. His website is www.garlicparadise.com.  

Bitter Creek WineryJerome’s newest wine venture. An avant-garde ambiance of artwork in a first-class gallery showing some of the area’s finest artists, is the place to be for a wine tasting. Their vintner invites you to experience all of his Nouveau varieties while watching the panoramic view across the Verde Valley with Sedona Red Rocks in the distance. You will encounter a grand selection of unique, special press and hard to locate varietals. Their vineyard has 52 different varieties from cuttings taken from exceptional vineyards in Europe and the US. They aim to please even the pickiest palate. Once you’re here, you won’t want to leave! Open daily from 11am to 6pm. For more information please visit their site www.bittercreekwinery.com or just stop by!

Painted Lady VineyardIn Skull Valley, the Painted Lady Vineyard grows Gewurztraminer grapes organically, without the use of toxic chemicals. Their one-acre vineyard, originally planted in 2006, was harvested for the first time on August 31, 2009. This was supplemented with Gewurztraminer grapes from southern Arizona to create the first totally Arizona grown Gewurztraminer wine the Painted Lady Vineyard has offered. The farming life still has its surprises (some good, some not) but optimism runs high! In

the meantime Eric Glomski of Page Springs Cellars, their winemaker, continues to perfect the Painted Lady Vineyard Gewurztraminer, fermenting all the sugar out of the wine creating a beautiful dry Alsace-type wine. To learn more call at (928) 442-9831 and check out their website at www.paintedladyvineyard.com.

Freitas VineyardsFreitas Vineyard is hidden away on the outskirts of Cottonwood, AZ. It’s a small vineyard, the dream of Ray Freitas. She planted the 3 1/2 acre vineyard, located near the Verde River, in 2000 and has been tending her vines since. Her mission is to produce fruit forward wines, well balanced in flavor,

color and aroma in order to stimulate and enhance your wine tasting experience. Ray calls her Malvasia “Sunlight in a bottle”. Freitas Vineyard produces only estate grown wines, utilizing the European tradition. You can taste Ray’s wines at Pillsbury Wine Co. NORTH in Old Town Cottonwood. For more information visit www.freitasvineyard.com.

Page Springs CellarsAt Page Springs Cellars the goal is to create delicious wines that express the unique character of the landscape. They trust that their wines and winemaking convey their philosophies concerning family, education and living life to the fullest. Owner and Winemaker Eric Glomski feels strongly that growing grapes, making wine and raising a glass is a cultural ritual that fosters friendship, brings together families and unites communities. “Good wine is not strictly the esoteric fare of nobility. Wine is for the people.” Not only does Eric have a vineyard in northern Arizona, he owns two additional vineyards in Willcox, AZ, including Arizona Stronghold, a second venture with Maynard James Keenan. Eric’s vision is at the forefront of bringing Arizona wines onto the national stage! Learn more about their wines and events at www.pagespringscellars.com. 

22 ARIZONA VINES & WINES - WINTER 2010 ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM

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Pillsbury Wine CompanySam Pillsbury, noted filmmaker, started his dream project in 2006 with 100 acres of prime desert vineyard land in the Willcox Bench area of Kansas Settlement in Willcox. Sam’s dream was to celebrate

the local terroir . . . an Arizona Chateauneuf, a sustainable Rhøne vineyard producing premium quality hand-made 100% Arizona boutique wines, and ultimately an architecturally stunning wine village with 27 dwellings, a Winery, Spa and Restaurant serving food grown organically on the land.The bare land is now a showpiece 100% Sonoita soil vineyard, the first three wines won stellar reviews and are in some of the best restaurants and resorts in the state, and the next architectural stage is underway. Pillsbury Wine Company NORTH just opened in Old Town Cottonwood, a place where you can taste Sam’s wines, view stunning art and visit with other Arizona wine lovers. Learn more at www.pillsburywineco.com.

Burning Tree Cellars Burning Tree Cellars is the brainchild of Corey Turnbull. Alongside friend and partner Mitch Levy, Corey has been working to make this dream a reality for the last two and a half years. Burning Tree specializes in small batch, meticulously maintained, boutique wines. All the wines will have names such

as The Lotus, The Dragon, The Peasant, and so on with collaborating Tarot Card labels created by good buddy and local tattoo artist Rick Wyckoff. Not only is the wine delicious, the bottles are practically works of art. The first release, 2007 The Lotus, is now available exclusively at the Arizona Stronghold Vineyard Tasting Room located in downtown Cottonwood. For more information - www.burningtreecellars.com.

Arizona Stronghold VineyardsEric Glomski and Maynard Keenan purchased the historic Dos Cabezas Vineyards in early 2007 and renamed the Willcox vines Arizona Stronghold Vineyards. They believe that the soils and climate at the vineyard stand up to the finest in the world, feeling strongly that their wines express, first and foremost Arizona, and secondarily the grapes and hands of the vignerons involved. Their desire is to bring Arizona to the national wine stage, promoting their wines as value and quality based. They believe that great wine doesn’t have to be expensive; it doesn’t have to be pretentious; and it shouldn’t be hard to find. It just has to be great and it has to be made by people that care. The Stronghold vineyard is nearly planted out at 80 acres. They also recently acquired the Bonita Springs Vineyard adding another 40 acres of vines and another 120 acres for potential expansion. Their tasting room recently opened in Old Town Cottonwood, in northern Arizona. Visit their website at www.azstronghold.com.

Jerome WineryJerome Winery was built on the side of Cleopatra Hill between Prescott and Sedona in the historic town of Jerome, featuring over 30 uniquely handcrafted, individually distinct wines. The vintner’s philosophy is to create wines that are enjoyable for the novice and the connoisseur alike. The owner learned the art of wine-making by training as an apprentice under master winemakers throughout the United States and Europe. Wine varieties include Pinot Grigio, Mourvedre, White Zinfandel, Syrah, Muscat, Zinfandel, Sparking Wine, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, 15-yr-old Port and others that are soon to be added! In addition to the Jerome Winery, they have 100 acres of vines planted in southeastern Arizona, the Dragoon Mountain Vineyards. Please visit their website at www.jeromewinery.com.

Cellar Dwellers Wine Co. was started by two childhood friends, Chris Babin and John Scarbrough. With enthusiastic fervor, a love of winemaking and Arizona, Chris and John have set out to create great AZ wines that are hip, fun and accessible to all wine lovers. The first label being launched is Tarantula Hawk, a 2008 Zin.Inspiration for the wine label comes from the Arizona landscape and is created by a local artist Todd “soup” Matyas. The company is dedicated to community, perfecting their wines and contributing to the growing Arizona wine industry.The 2008 Tarantula Hawk will be available soon in tasting rooms and restaurants in Northern Arizona. Look for it.

Clear Creek Vineyards

Cellar Dwellers

24 ARIZONA VINES & WINES - WINTER 2010 ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM

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the AZ wine scene

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AZVinesandWines

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Where to stay in Northern Arizona - B&Bs, RV resorts, hotels and high end resorts. Check out videos of the area on www.Sedona.TV. Also check out Cottonwood Chamber of Commerce at www.cottonwoodchamberaz.org.

Cliff Castle Casino Hotel (800) 524-6343 cliffcastlecasino.net

Enchantment Resort (928) 282-2900 enchantmentresort.com

Jerome Grand Hotel (888) 817-6788 jeromegrandhotel.com

Juniper Well Ranch (Skull Valley) (928) 442-3415 juniperwellranch.com

Mii Amo Spa at Enchantment (928) 203-8500 miiamo.com

Adobe Grand Villas (866) 900-7616 adobegrandvillas.com

Adobe Hacienda B&B Inn (800) 454-7191 adobe-hacienda.com

Adobe Village Graham Inn (800) 228-1425 adobevillagegrahaminn.com

Alma de Sedona (800) 923-2282 almadesedona.com

Amara Resort & Spa (928) 282-4828 amararesort.com

The Annabel Inn (928) 649-3038 theannabelinn.com

Apple Orchard Inn (800) 663-6968 appleorchardbb.com

Baby Quail Inn (866) 87-QUAIL babyquailinn.com

Briar Patch Inn (888) 809-3030 briarpatchinn.com

Canyon Villa Inn of Sedona (800) 453-1166 canyonvilla.com

Casa Sedona B&B Inn (800) 525-3756 casasedona.com

Cozy Cactus B&B (800) 788-2082 cozycactus.com

Desert Rose B&B (928) 646-0236 desertrosebandb.com

Garland’s Oak Creek Lodge (928) 282-3343 garlandslodge.com

Ghost City Inn (888) 634-4678 ghostcityinn.com

Hilton Sedona Resort & Spa (928) 284-4040 hiltonsedona.com

Hyatt Pinon Pointe Resort (928) 204-8820 hyattpinonpointe.hyatt.com

Junipine Resort (800) 742-7463 junipine.com

L’Auberge de Sedona (928) 282-1661 lauberge.com

Las Posadas of Sedona (888) 284-5288 lasposadasofsedona.com

Lodge at Sedona (800) 619-4467 lodgeatsedona.com

Lo Lo Mai Springs (928) 634-4700 lolomai.com

Los Abrigados Resort & Spa (928) 282-1777 ilxresorts.com

Page Springs B&B (928) 634-4335 pagespringsbandb.com

The Penrose B&B (888) 678-3030 thepenrose.com

Prescott Spring Hill Suites (928) 776-0998 marriott.com/prcsh

Prescott Residence Inn (928) 775-2232 marriott.com/prcri

Red Agave Resort (877) 284-9237 redagaveresort.com

Sedona Rouge Hotel & Spa (928) 203-4111 sedonarouge.com

The Surgeon’s House (800) 639-1452 surgeonshouse.com

What else is there to do . . . Here are a few ideas! This is just the tip of the iceberg . . .

• Sedona Adventure Tours “Water to Wine Tour” & Assorted Wine Tours (928) 204-6440 | sedonawinetours.com

• Sedona Wine Country Tours Wild Women Tours plus lots more . . . (928) 554-4075 | sedonawinecountrytours.com

• Verde Valley Olive Oil Traders Olive Oil Tasting! (928) 634-9900 | vvoliveoil.com

• Massage in the Vineyard At Page Springs Cellars (928) 649-9907 | dancinghandsmassage.net

Where to eat . . . There are many great dining choices in Sedona and the Verde

Valley. These places cross the spectrum from casual to elegant . . . and they pour Arizona wines! • The Asylum (928) 639-3197• Enchantment’s Yavapai Room (800) 826-4180

• Barking Frog Grille (928) 204-2000• Belgian Jenny’s (928) 639-3141• Cowboy Club (928) 282-4200• Cucina Rustica (928) 284-3010• Dahl & Diluca (928) 282-5219• El Portal Sedona (928) 203-9405• Elote Café (928) 203-0105• Fourno’s (928) 282-3331• Garland’s Lodge (928) 282-3343• Heartline Café (928) 282-0785• Joey Bistro (928) 204-5639• Judi’s (928) 282-4449• L’Auberge de Sedona (928) 282-1661• Manzanita Inn (928) 634-8851• Oak Creek Brewery (928) 282-3300• Picazzo’s (928) 282-4140• Reds at Sedona Rouge (928) 203-4111• Relic’s (928) 282-1593• Stakes & Sticks (928) 204-7849• Troia’s (928) 282-0123

28 ARIZONA VINES & WINES - WINTER 2010 ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM

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on theVerde Valley

Wine Trail

Local Artists have painted wine barrels that will be that will be displayed throughout the Verde Valley at local wineries, tastings rooms, & businesses. Follow the Verde Valley Wine Trail Painted Barrels and experience the FUN of the Verde Valley. You can win COOL prizes when you find us on:

@VVWineTrail/VVwineTrail

www.VerdeValleyWineTrail.comCottonwood Chamber of Commerce

1010 Main Street, Cottonwood, AZ- (928)634-7593

Painted Barrels

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raveling though Burgundy and Rhone this summer, I was struck by how many vintners referred to their wines and vineyards as “speaking a story.” I have to admit that I really never thought of the

expression in these terms. While I appreciated that so many of the vineyard lands had been producing wine for over five hundred years, it was the visit with both Philippe Guigal of E. Guigal and Daniel Coulon of Domaine de Beaurenard that hammered home why this hallowed region speaks a story.

The steep terraces in Ampuis, on which Guigal farms some of their most revered vines, have roots and relics dating back two centuries to the Roman era. In fact, the Guigal cellars have a tiled relic hanging on one of their walls that dates back some nineteen hundred years! The Coulon brothers are seventh generation, farming vineyards established in the fourteenth century by the Popes. Walking through the Beaurenard vineyards, the soil covered with the classic moon like galets and touching the gnarled and craggy one hundred-year-old vine trunks that look more like something out of the Wizard of Oz, catapulted me into the past. These vines were planted a century ago, before my parents were born. The Beaurenard lands were sanctioned by the Popes before Columbus discovered America and the Roman vineyards . . . need I say more?

The same story is repeated throughout the old world, stories and secrets of a life once lived buried beneath the soils, where it was man against the elements, when hard labor meant no automation, just strong bodies and determined minds to complete the task. It was an unrelenting dedication to the quality of their goods and not about ratings or prices.

Wine also tells a story about its terroir, its vineyard management and its winemaker, all of which contribute to the complexity and definition of wine. The Cote De Nuits region of Burgundy, with its semicontinental climate, is covered with sandy-limestone, chalk and clay resulting in world renown reds with unique finesse and balance while to the south, the Cote De Beaune benefits from a slightly warmer and wetter climate resulting in some of the finest (and priciest) dry Chardonnays in the world. Northern Rhone, with its blend of Mediterranean and continental climates and soils of granite, schist and sand, is renown for inky purple Syrah whereas its southern counterpart is distinctly Mediterranean with a complexity of soils that are stony with calcareous clay, marl and limestone. These soils produce the famed Chateauneuf-de-Pape. To this ideal terroir, add the centuries of vineyard farming experience and winemaking knowledge and you have all the ingredients for greatness. It’s the potential for such greatness, I believe, that inspires Arizona vintners to new heights unimagined just a short decade ago.

While evidence exists that missionaries planted grapes on our soils many centuries ago, the modern day industry only witnessed its incipient launch back in the 1960’s and 70’s through the efforts of agricultural pioneer Gordon Dutt. Through his unrelenting efforts, he proved that wine grapes could be grown

successfully in the higher elevations of Arizona. That first step laid the foundation for today’s success in producing Arizona wine.

With some of the oldest vines only 30 years old and vintners working through trial and error in a quest for excellence, our wines are beginning to speak their own story. It’s a tale told of harsh weather extremes including scorching insolation rarely found in most appellations, bone dry winds, drought and sandy, gravelly loam soils with poor nitrogen content. Despite these challenges, local vintners with whom I have spoken all agree that with measured irrigation, proper soil, canopy and vine management and a well timed harvest, our terroir will allow for top quality grapes that someday, could potentially rival our French and Italian counterparts.

But this story is only half finished and the winemaker is now taking control. And it’s here, amidst our very young history as a wine producing region, that a diversity in wine styles emerge, often a reflection of the skills and preferences of the young vintner. Despite an infant industry, it’s impressive that vintners have seized the national stage with outstanding reds based upon the Syrah, Grenache, Mouvedre, and Tempranillo varietals and whites based upon Viognier, Malvasia, and Pinot Gris.

As experience builds, we will travel the paths of so many established wine regions around the globe. Vintners will become increasingly adept in embracing techniques and strategies that integrate seamlessly with our terroir, yielding wines that more and more accurately define our region. And while today’s story told by our grapes and wines defines our present, history dictates that’s certain to evolve, unraveling unimagined tales yet to be told.

WINE SPEAKING A STORYBy Jim Seder, Wine Inquirer

T

Jim Seder is a retired meteorologist and anesthesiologist. He resides with his wife, Rosalee, and stepson Jared, in Tucson, Arizona

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Callaghan VineyardsLocated in the rolling oak-dotted hills of southeastern Arizona, at an elevation of 4800 feet, Callaghan Vineyards produces rich, complex red and white wines from its 25-acre vineyard. Mediterranean and Spanish varietals - Petit Verdot, Petite Sirah, Tempranillo, Mourvedre and Grenache - are the basic building blocks for their red blends, while Viognier and Riesling are blended

for the estate wine. They soon will also include Marsanne, Roussane and Malvasia Bianca. From their first vintage in 1991, their wines have received many accolades from the most respected wine writers/publications in the world. Please visit them at www.callaghanvineyards.com.

Dos Cabezas WineWorks has been producing wines in Arizona since 1995. Their award-winning wines have even been served at the White House. The

winery was originally located on 80 acres near Willcox, Arizona. Just after the harvest of 2006, winemaker Todd Bostock purchased the winery with the help of his wife Kelly and his parents Frank and Paula. The winery was moved to Sonoita, close to the vineyard the family planted in Elgin in 2003 - Pronghorn Vineyards.

They have since opened a tasting room at the winery and look forward to seeing you there soon! Visit them at www.doscabezaswinery.com.

Rancho Rossa VineyardsRancho Rossa Vineyards is one of the largest family-owned wineries in the Sonoita area. They specialize in Ultra-Premium varietal bottlings from their 22 acres of estate plantings, using only 100% estate-grown fruit in their wines, the only winery in the area to do so. Their first vines were planted in 2002 and their second vineyard was planted in 2003. Rancho Rossa will donate $0.10 to the American Cancer Society for every bottle of wine sold. Please visit the website at www.ranchorossa.com to learn more.

Wilhelm Family VineyardsIn 2003, Kevin and Karyl Wilhelm bought 20 beautiful acres of rolling Sonoita-Elgin wine-growing land to begin their winemaking dream. Today Wilhelm Family Vineyards is planted with seven different varietals, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc,  Petite Verdot, Tempranillo and Albarino. Other Spanish and Rhone varietals are currently being explored. Along with their wines, the Wilhelm’s 6,000 sq. ft. winery is available for custom crush processing operations, barrel storage and small individual lot winemaking. Karyl, their resident winemaker, has completed studies at U.C. Davis in the Winemaking Certification program. She prefers time-honored winemaking styles with patient guidance to nature’s best. Please visit www.WilhelmFamilyVineyards.com for the most current information about tasting hours, wine selection, and winery facility availability.  Make sure you add Wilhelm Family Vineyards to your wine tour list. Come meet the family, sample their wines, and perhaps even try your harvesting and winemaking skills at their facility. Kief-Joshua Vineyards

Kief-Joshua Vineyards is a small family business on 20 acres in beautiful Elgin. The first planting was in 2003 and currently they have about ten acres under vine, consisting of eight different varieties: Tempranillo, Mourvedre, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Zinfandel, Riesling, Semillon and Viognier. The winemaker, Kief Manning, pursued viticulture studies in Australia, where he earned both a graduate and undergraduate degree in Viticulture and Enology. He practices traditional winemaking methods of minimal interference, open fermentation and barrel aging. He has also been practicing biodynamic growing procedures in the vineyard since 2006. Kief-Joshua Vineyards is a winery defined by family, passion & enthusiasm, with a commitment to winemaking that will exceed expectations. www.kj-vineyards.com.

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Lightning Ridge CellarsAfter their first trip to Tuscany, Ron & Ann Roncone decided the wine they’d make would be based on their Italian heritage. Lightning Ridge Cellars, a small family winery, was established in 2005. It

represents years of personal endeavor from the ground up. The old world style of wines they make are simply the wines they enjoy most. Their estate wines are proudly made from classic Italian varietals: Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Montepulciano,

Primitivo, Malvasia and Muscat Canelli. Located at 5,100 ft. elevration, their vineyards enjoy long warm summers and cool nights to provide the perfect combination for rich, full-bodied wines. They welcome you to their Tuscan-themed winery and tasting room. www.lightningridgecellars.com

Village of Elgin WineryThe Village of Elgin Winery emphasizes terroir. They stomp the grapes, use natural yeasts, hand craft and use only new wood casks.

The winery accents small-lot red, white and rosé wines ranging from single varietals such as Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese to traditional blended delights. Each wine is handcrafted by the winemakers/owners Gary and Kathy Reeves. The Village of Elgin Winery is home to the WORLD renowned

Tombstone Red which has spawned three other wines including a seven-year-old Cabernet Sauvignon named Tombstone Gunslinger and two whites, Tombstone Rain and Tombstone Showdown. Their Dry Rosé was the Rosé category Best of Class at the Governor’s Choice. Please visit them at www.elginwines.com.  

Charron Vineyards Charron Vineyards is a small boutique winery producing hand-crafted Arizona wines. The winery’s signature White Merlot is made from grapes that are hand picked from mature vines grown at an elevation of 4023 feet. The long warm summer days, cool nights and Empire Mountain terroir sets their Merlot grapes apart. Milton and Susan Craig invite you to taste their wines while enjoying the spectacular views of the Santa Rita and Empire Mountains. They are located in Vail, 3/4 of a mile off scenic highway 83 between Tucson and Sonoita. The tasting room is open Friday - Sunday 10AM to 6pm and weekdays by appointment. Please visit their website for more information. www.charronvineyards.com.

Sonoita VineyardsDr. Gordon Dutt, owner and founder of Sonoita Vineyards, is a retired soil scientist from the University of Arizona. As part of a research project back in 1973, he established an experimental vineyard on the red, acidic clay of the Babacomari Ranch in Southern Arizona. The success of that vineyard and the quality of the wines from those grapes led to the planting of a commercial vineyard in 1979, the first in the Sonoita-Elgin area. Sonoita Vineyards’ winery opened in 1983 with a first-vintage production of 300 gallons. Today Winemaker Fran Lightly is producing nearly 4000 cases (9500 gallons) per year from 10 different grape varieties including Colombard, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Over 90% of this production is sold through a beautiful and spacious tasting room, gift shop and special events facility with picturesque views of hillside vineyards, rolling grasslands and scenic mountain ranges. This facility is open daily (except major holidays) from 10AM to 4PM. Visit www.sonoitavineyards.com for more info.

Canelo Hills Vineyard & WineryCanelo Hills Vineyard and Winery is a family-owned and operated winery established in 2003 by Tim and Joan Mueller. Joan grows the grapes for the wine Tim makes, and daughter Kathryn does the marketing.

They have six acres planted and are currently bottling Syrah, Riesling, Tempranillo, Zinfandel, Sangiovese and Chardonnay. Every April they host the Canelo Hills Wine & Farm

Festival, where you can taste wines from Southern Arizona wineries, meet the winemakers and buy local farm products. All their wines are made on-site from 100% Arizona fruit. Canelo Hills Vineyard’s own 2008 Malvasia won the Arizona Wine Grower’s Cup Overall Best White for 2009! Learn more about them or about their many events throughout the year by visiting their website at www.canelohillswinery.com.

Four Monkey WinesFour Monkey Wines, one of Arizona’s new wineries, produces quality wines at reasonable prices; the four wines retail for under $11/bottle. The winery produces the Playful Monkey, a Cabernet Sauvignon and a 2007 Governor’s Choice Wine Competition Silver Medal Winner.  The other three wines are the Sinful Monkey, the Naughty Monkey and the Cheeky Monkey—encompassing two reds and two whites, all representing individual personalities. For tastings visit the Village of Elgin Winery. Learn more at www.fourmonkeywines.com.

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Where to stay . . . When traveling to wine country it’s a great idea to make a weekend of it and have time to enjoy the area

you are visiting. Here are some great places to stay while visiting your favorite wineries in Sonoita.

Sonoita/Elgin

La Hacienda de Sonoita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 455-5308 www .haciendasonoita .com

Xanadu Ranch Getaway Guest Ranch / Hybrid B&B . . (520) 455-0050 www .xanaduranchgetaway .com

Sonoita Inn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 455-5935 www .sonoitainn .com

Rain Valley Bed & Breakfast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 456-2911Canelo Stone Cottage. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (303) 384-0471

www.vrbo.com/90775Casita Dole Che . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 455-5687

www.casitadoleche.com Rainbow’s End Bed & Breakfast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 455-0202

www.rainbowsendbandb.comCrown C Ranch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 455-5739

www.crowncranch.comRancho Milagro Bed & Breakfast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 455-0380

www.milagroranch.comWhisper’s Ranch Bed & Breakfast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 455-9246

www.whispersranch.com

Patagonia

Roadrunner Retreat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (360) 455-0220 www .southernarizonavacationrentalhomes .com

Spirit Tree Inn Bed & Breakfast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (866) 394-0121 www .spirittreeinn .com

The Duquesne House Bed & Breakfast . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 394-2732

www.theduquesnehouse.comThe Enchanted Garden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 604-0070

www.enchantedgardenaz.netCasita Frontera Guest Cottage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 604-6762

www.lafronteraaz.com/id60.htmlLa Palomita de Patagonia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 394-2036Painted House Studio. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 394-2740Red Mountain Guest House . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 394-2977

www.redmtncottage.com

Studio Gallery & Lodging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 394-2978Cross Creek Cottages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 400-7230Dos Palmas Vacation Home . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (866) 394-0056

www.dospalmasaz.comCircle Z Ranch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 394-2525

www.circlez.comPatagonia Oaks - A Birder’s Haven . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (410) 527-0304

Santa Cruz County

Hacienda Corona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 287-6503 www.haciendacorona.com

A Room With A View . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 397-9297 www.patagoniaview.com

What else is there to do . . . Sonoita is an area with a lot of charm. Horse ranches cover the countryside

as well as Alpaca farms. Patagonia has a distinctive character and is a great town to visit. Here are some fun ways to enjoy the area . . .

Square Top Alpacas - (520) 455-4600 www .squaretopranch .com

Arizona Horseback Experience - (520) 455-5696 www.horsebackexperience.com Try their “Wine Tasting Ride”

Arizona Sunshine Tours - (520) 803-6713 www.arizonasunshinetours.com

Wine Country Tours

Where to eat . . . You’ll find everything from pizza-to-go to fine dining. Here are a few choices . . .

keep in mind that none of the wineries serve meals (you’ll find some snacks at a few) - so plan ahead, bring some sandwiches and have a picnic!

• The Steakout Restaurant & Saloon . . . (520) 455-5205• Canela Bistro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 455-5873• Gathering Grounds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 394-2097• Grasslands Natural Foods Bakery . . . . (520) 455-4770• Home Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 394-2344• Viaggio Italiano. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 455-5282• Ranch House Restaurant. . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 455-5371• Sonoita Crossroads Cafe . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 455-0040• Velvet Elvis Pizza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 394-2102• Wagon Wheel Restaurant & Saloon . . . (520) 394-2433

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Coronado VineyardsIt was spring 2005, in the early morning shadows of the Dos Cabezas Mountains, that Mark and Jacque Cook planted the first vines at their El Pinito Vineyard. The vineyard is named for its’ lone, majestic pine tree, all that remains of what once was a golf course. The vines flourished, and Coronado Vineyards is now proud to introduce you to our award winning wines. We craft each wine to be a unique experience: sweet table wines and exciting blends; our gold medal sparkling wine Dolce Veritas; and our fine varietals including Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Riesling.Our El Pinito vineyard and on-site Taste of Coronado Restaurant, offer the perfect setting to enjoy wine and appetizers with a few friends, or hold a large private event or wedding. Chef Zach Hoffman and his warm and inviting staff can insure that your special event will be one to remember. Come experience all that Coronado Vineyards has to offer. An adventure in wine tasting awaits you. www.coronadovineyards.com

Keeling Schaefer Vineyards

At 5000 feet above sea level, the summer climate of warm, sunny days and cool, high desert nights combines with the

unique rhyolite volcanic soils to create wine with special characteristics. We produce estate grown and bottled wine on our 21 acres of vineyards located on Rock Creek on the western slope of the Chiricahua Mountains in far southeastern Arizona. We live on the estate, a little wine ranch on the side of the mountain, a quiet place far from the city, where one’s life plays out along with the wine season. The winery and vineyard are not open to the public, however, we do accept visitors by appointment. Our new tasting room in Historic Downtown Willcox is open Thursday - Sunday 11-4. 520.824.2500 or www.keelingschaefervineyards.com.

CimarronIn the shadow of the Chiricahua Mountains at 4300 ft., lies the fertile Kansas Settlement farmland. Oregon pinot pioneer Dick Erath chose this unique site to plant his Cimarron Vineyard. Planting traditional grapes alongside unique varietals, Erath plans to create wines to please the most discerning palate while retaining Arizona’s unique terroir. His first vintage was released through select Fox Restaurant locations and future releases will be available through the tasting room at Dos Cabezas WineWorks in Sonoita.

We create hand crafted wines that reflect the unique characteristics of southeastern Arizona. Our philosophy of winemaking is to select the perfect varietals and let nature do its magic with as little intervention as possible. We let the fruit speak for itself. Rhone-varietals flourish in the volcanic soils of our 5,000-foot elevation estate in the Chiricahua Mountain foothills. Add clean air, pure water, mountain breezes, and four seasons and we have the key ingredients that make up our outstanding terrior. Visit this magical place and experience the unique wines of the Lawrence Dunham Vineyards. Go to www.lawrencedunhamvineyards.com

or call 602.320.1485 to join the Chiricahua Circle or wine club, purchase our wines, arrange for a visit, or attend an upcoming event. Wine tasting by appointment only.

Carlson CreekCarlson Creek Vineyard is dedicated to the production of fine wine from Arizona.  We are family owned and operated.  Although we are a young company, we  are filled with  a passion for the grape vine.  Our v in eya rd ’s e l e v a t i o n provides a perfect climate for growing wine grapes.  All of us at Carlson Creek Vineyard  hope you will come and visit us in our new Willcox tasting room. Learn more by checking out our website at www.carlsoncreek.com.

Colibri Vineyards Before Bob Johnson became a plant scientist, his wife Mickey, a physician, and he spent most of their adult lives in the medical field. One spring

morning in 1995, he discovered a restless apple orchard with wonderful rows of

trees arm in arm. This land “called to him”. As he stood surveying the buildings and grounds, his gaze caught sight of a beautiful stone arch up on a hilltop, carved thousands of years ago by combined forces of nature. Without hesitation, he and his wife purchased the property, named it Colibri and began to create their dream. We encourage you to visit their website for more information at www.colibrivineyard.com. 

Fort Bowie VineyardsFort Bowie Vineyards & Orchard Products features the freshest and finest products. Currently the Orchards produce Pecans, Walnuts, Peaches and Cherries. A variety of nut products including specialty roasted Cinnamon Sugared Pecans, Salted and Roasted Pecans, Chocolate Pecan Clusters and Pecan Oil can be purchased at their store year round. The Vineyards produce a unique diversity of wines ranging from their famous Arizona Sweet Water, a sweet white dessert wine, to their Pecan Delight, a distinctive sparkling wine with the essence of pecans. Fort Bowie Vineyards recently introduced a new line of Chocolate Wine Sauces and Wine Truffles. Wine tasting is offered daily. Find out more at their website at www.fortbowievineyards.net.

Lawrence Dunham

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Where to eat . . .

What else is there to do . . .

• Coronado Vineyards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 384-2993 Mon, Thurs, Fri & Sat Dinner beginning at 5PM

• Sunglow Ranch Cafe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (520) 824-3334 Delicious & healthy serving natural, organic & local foods - Reservations required

• Big Tex BBQ .....................................................(520) 384-4423• El Ranchero ......................................................(520) 384-2660• Some of the B&Bs also serve dinner if requested.

• Apple Annie’s (seasonal) | www.appleannies.com• Visit Chiricahua National Monument | www.nps.gov/chir/• Kartchner Caverns State Park | (520) 586-2283• Amerind Foundation Museum | www.amerind.org• Hike Cochise Stronghold | www.cochisestronghold.com

• Tour the Rex Allen Museum | www.rexallenmuseum.org

Where to stay . . . Willcox has some great B&Bs. If you enjoy meeting

some great people and staying in a beautiful environment - you’ll love it!

• Sunglow Guest Ranch (520) 824-3334 www .sunglowranch .com

• Cochise Stronghold B&B (520) 826-4141 www.cochisestrongholdbb.com

• Copper Queen Hotel (Bisbee) (520) 432-2216 www.copperqueen.com

• Dos Cabezas Spirit & Nature Retreat B&B (520) 384-6474 www.doscabezasretreat.com

• Down By The River Bed & Breakfast (520) 720-9441 www.downbytheriverbandb.com (St. David)

• Dreamcatcher Bed & Breakfast (520) 824-3127 www.dreamcatcherbandb.com

• Grapevine Canyon Ranch (520) 826-3185 www.gcranch.com

• Letson Loft Hotel (Bisbee) (520) 432-3210 www.letsonlofthotel.com

• Muleshoe Ranch @ Nature Conservancy (520) 212-4295

• Strawbale Manor Bed & Breakfast (888) 414-3077 www.bbonline.com/az/strawbale

• Triangle T Guest Ranch (520) 586-7533 www.triangletguestranch.com

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RUBEE’S RESTAURANT SPOTLIGHT . . .

or me, what makes a restaurant special is excellent food and high-quality ingredients, caring chef/owners who are proud and passionate about their craft, and a welcoming

atmosphere that makes me happy the moment I walk in, and encourages me to return as soon as possible. Family-owned Hana (“flower”) is such a spot with this magical combination.

Tucked away in the corner of a strip mall, Hana’s dining room is minimally decorated and casual, with a small open kitchen and sushi counter. Stepfather Chef Kazuto “Kaz” Kishino and mother Kinue Hashimoto, both formally trained in Japan, helm the kitchen. Son Chef Rick “Koji” Hashimoto creates gorgeous sushi with assistance from sister Lori Hashimoto, who also handles the front of the house with Lynn Becker, co-owner and family member. Visit here just once with your family, and you’ll leave feeling like you’re a part of theirs.

Aside from the printed menu, there are whiteboard specials with 20-25 additional dishes on a given night. One features Kitchen Specials while the other lists Sushi Specials, such as fresh, never frozen, fish flown in that day from Japan or Hawaii. Complimentary Poki Chips are crunchy wontons piled with surimi, scallions, and cucumbers with a bit of heat from Sriricha chili sauce – a satisfying nibble while deciding what to order. It’s hard to pass up mom’s handmade gyoza (dumplings), and I rarely do. Pleated crescents stuffed with juicy pork and pan-fried to browned crusted bottoms, these are among the best I’ve ever had. Others must agree as I’ve been told mom makes 600-800

of these a week! Ebi (shrimp) tempura arrived as a plate of delicately battered shrimp, with green beans, kabocha squash, mushroom, eggplant, and shiso. Ebi kakiage were fantastic ever-so-crisp deep-fried

whole shrimp swathed in the lightest veil of coating, needing nothing more than a bracing squeeze of lemon. Creamy Belon oysters from the cool, clean waters of the Pacific Northwest present as a lush mouthful, topped with ponzu, daikon radish, and togarashi (a 7-spice Japanese blend). Okonomiyaki, a hearty savory pancake of egg batter with cabbage, pork, and shrimp, was festively decorated with scallions, pickled red ginger, bonito flakes, and drizzles of Kewpie Japanese mayonnaise.

Rainbow Carpaccio appeared as colorful art with glistening slices of raw halibut, tuna, salmon, and yellowtail strewn with garlic chips and garnished with citrus-scented oil and lemon-cucumber relish. The prized part of tuna - toro, the marbled fatty belly – was smooth and buttery and especially delicious with Hana’s pickled fresh wasabi to cut the richness. Whole aji (mackerel) with its glittering silver-blue skin was served

carved on the bone, looking and tasting impeccably ocean-fresh. Miru-gai (geoduck clam) came to the table raw as briny sweet slices with a firm yet resilient bite, and sautéed and tumbled with bright green asparagus, mounded on a plate and ringed by lemon slices. A special treat one night was uni (sea urchin) flown in live from Japan. Served on its shell atop a bed of shredded daikon radish and shiso with aromatic ponzu and lemon, the sea breeze sweetness shone in this delicacy and made instant converts of those who were tasting uni for the first time.

Tempura uni exemplified the finesse of Chef Kaz’s fine dining background. Featuring tongues of pale orange uni sandwiched between shiso leaves, each amazing bite revealed a careful balance of flavor and

F

Hana Japanese EateryA Flower Blooms in the Sonoran Desert

By Christina Barrueta

Toro

Poki Chips

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use, with more reasonable prices found at Hana. Looking for something special? With advance notice, Hana will strive to make sure your favorites are available when you come in (as they kindly did with our requests for uni, miru-gai, and ankimo). Don’t eat raw fish? There is a color-coded menu to direct you to cooked seafood dishes. Not a fan of seafood? Order the Hana Katsu, a golden breaded chicken cutlet stuffed with mom’s Koso garlic-herb butter, or the juicy Hana Gyuniku, a generous 8-oz grade ribeye topped with sautéed onions and served with Japanese vegetables; a perfect excuse to bring an Arizona red. Hana is also open weekdays 11 am to 2:30 and lunch is the perfect opportunity to perhaps try one of the nine Bento Box selections in addition to the lunch menu.

Christina Barrueta is an avid Chowhound, passionate about food, wine and spirits. A transplant from Boston, she loves finding new locations to whet her appetite. You may follow her as Rubee on Chowhound.com or @Rubee100 on Twitter.

texture with the custard-like uni encased in a delicate tempura shell. Ankimo (monkfish liver) was steamed into creamy tenderness, sliced into rounds, and garnished with togarashi daikon relish, scallions, and black sesame seeds - another colorful plate. Fat scallops unadorned and sautéed simply in butter were perfectly cooked, plump and juicy. “Melts in your mouth” we agreed when we savored quick-seared slices of toro tataki attractively shingled on a glass plate with garlic chips and tataki sauce. With tai ishi-yaki, translucent slices of raw tai (red snapper) with daikon and shiso were set over a cooking grate in a bowl filled with hot river stones. As Chef Kaz poured sake over the stones and quickly covered the bowl for a few brief seconds, the fragrant steam flavored and lightly cooked the fish. Wrapped in shiso leaves and dipped in tataki sauce, this was divine. Another outstanding preparation with this mellow white fish was the interactive tai miso-yaki using a tabletop grill to cook tai on a hoba (Japanese magnolia) leaf with an umami-rich salty-sweet miso glaze.

After such a feast, you may want to try one of the six desserts Hana offers, including green tea, strawberry, or mango  mochi  (ice cream wrapped in soft sweet rice dough) or the traditional Japanese an mitsu with aloe jelly, fruit, red bean paste, and ice cream. 

A wonderful bonus is that Hana is BYOB with no corkage fee. While sake or Japanese beer is an obvious choice, I’ve enjoyed pairing wines to see which ones are pleasant partners with the variety of dishes in Japanese cuisine, and our refreshing and well-balanced Arizona whites are especially nice. I loved Canelo Hills Sparkling Chardonnay with the clean pure flavors of sashimi, and whites such as Arizona Stronghold’s Tazi, Kief-Joshua Chenin Blanc, and Javelina Leap Sauvignon Blanc paired nicely with a variety of cooked and fried dishes. On my last visit, a lighter non-Arizona pinot noir was a lovely surprise with richer dishes such as ankimo and toro tataki.

With a large selection of fresh seafood, sushi rolls, soups, grilled dishes, and daily specials, Hana has something that will appeal to all. The super-friendly and knowledgeable staff will answer any questions you may have and make suggestions. As Chef Koji has been training since he was 17, over the years he has fostered a close relationship with the same fresh seafood purveyors that high-end sushi restaurants

Hana Japanese Eatery5524 North 7th Avenue

Phoenix, AZ 85013 602.973.1238

www.HanaJapaneseEatery.com

There is a gift to preparing food in ways that best capture the texture and flavor of each ingredient, and the Hana family surely has it. Using a combination of ingredients that harmonize and complement each other, this warm and friendly spot showcases the hallmarks of Japanese cuisine: simplicity and purity, freshness and quality. Hana easily puts to rest the myth that spectacularly fresh seafood can’t be found in the desert, and I’m happy to return again and again to this well-loved “flower”.

Live Uni

Tai Miso-Yaki

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EVENTS CALENDAR

DECEMBER EVENTS

JANUARY EVENTS

FEBRUARY EVENTS

• 1/4 6:30pm Javelina Leap Winemaker Dinner at FnB Restaurant FnBRestaurant.com• 1/14-16 10am-5pm Thunderbird Artists Carefree Fine Art & Wine Festival ThunderbirdArtists.com• 1/28 6pm-9pm CRAVE ARIZONA: Elixirs at The Loft CraveArizona.com• 1/29 7:30pm CRAVE ARIZONA: Decanted-VIP Reserve Wine Tasting CraveArizona.com• 1/30 Noon-5pm CRAVE ARIZONA: Grand Tasting CraveArizona.com

• 2/9-13 Tubac Festival of the Arts TubacAZ.com• 2/11-13 Pecan, Wine & Antique Festival in Camp Verde PecanandWineFestival.com• 2/14 Coronado Vineyards Wine & Chocolate Festival CoronadoVineyards.com

• 12/2 6:30pm Kief-Joshua Vineyards Winemaker Dinner at Le Ragazze MyWineHelper.com• 12/2 6pm Keeling Schaefer Vineyards Wine Tasting at the Sun Devil Cellar SunDevilCellar.com• 12/3-5 10am-Dusk Tempe Festival of the Arts: Arizona Wine Garden TempeFestivaloftheArts.com• 12/3-5 Various Page Springs Cellars: Gruel & Grog PageSpringsCellars.com• 12/7 6:30pm Freitas Vineyards Winemaker Dinner at FnB Restaurant FnBRestaurant.com• 12/9 6pm Duckhorn Wine Dinner at BLT Steak in Scottsdale BLTScottsdale.com• 12/10 10am-Dusk 4th Avenue Winter Street Fair FourthAvenue.org• 12/11 3:30-5pm Canelo Hills Holiday Wreath-Making Workshop & Wine Tasting CaneloHillsWinery.com• 12/15 6:30pm Dribble Creek Winemaker Dinner at Romeo’s Euro Cafe MyWineHelper.com• 12/16 6pm Arizona Wine Tasting at Press Coffee Food & Wine MyWineHelper.com• 12/18 10am-2pm Pillsbury Wine Tasting at Queen Creek Olive Mill PillsburyWineCo.com

Granite Creek Vineyards - Saturday “Winter Wine & Music Series” - GraniteCreekVineyards.com

Don’t forget to check updated event listings on our website at www.AZWineEvents.com

50 ARIZONA VINES & WINES - WINTER 2010 ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM

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JANUARY EVENTS

FEBRUARY EVENTS

Crave AZ 2011 at the Scottsdale Waterfront, January 28th - 30thTempt

your sensual

side with

decadent flavors

Friday, January 28th, 6:00p.m. and 9:00p.m.Elixirs at the LoftBattle of the Sexes &National Top Bar Chef Mix-Off

Saturday, January 29th, 7:30p.m.Decanted - VIP ReserveWine Tasting

Sunday, January 30th, 12:00 to 5:00p.m.Grand Tasting

Tickets available now at www.cravearizona.com

Benefitting

Page 52: Winter 2011

Northern Arizona Wines & Dines in the PinesWhile Snowbowl, located in the heart of northern Arizona, is primarily known for its lily white ski slopes, it was recently transformed into a Foodie’s paradise for the 14th Annual Wine & Dine in the Pines culinary taste extravaganza to benefit the Northern Arizona University Lumberjacks Athletic Association’s scholarship program. Local chefs from the much buzzed about Tinderbox Kitchen, long-time favorite Charley’s and even the Grand Canyon were among the more than 25 fine food venues sampling their latest flavor creations.

Fresh catfish, delicate petit fours and simmering soups were all on the menu along with filets, smoked salmon and so much more.

But what would a culinary event be without the wine and spirits? Both were supplied most graciously from Alliance Beverage – with a twist.

Neither waitstaff nor barkeeps tended to the nearly 100 varietals. Instead, NAU Athletics coaches and executive staff – including head football coach Jerome Souers – took care of the more than 400 guests. Souers and the rest of the coaches and staff took great care of the guests, pouring wines from neighboring areas such as Sedona and Jerome, as well as Southern Arizona and all across California.

“Far Niente – a coveted winery that has been creating wine for more than 125 years – was certainly an unexpected treat,” said Tim Dwyer, an NAU alum and wine aficionado on hand for the celebration. “But my wife prefers to drink a little more local, so Arizona Stronghold was more her style.”

The event planners also took an extra step to make it easy for guests to keep track – and purchase – their favorite varietals. “Alliance is good enough to work with us on a pocket-sized book that organizes each of the wines being sampled by table with general tasting notes and plenty of space for our guests to record their own thoughts,” said Ashley Hammerstein of NAU Athletics, who helped coordinate the event. “And as dessert is served, our guests can bring their books to the lodge and purchase anything they like to help benefit the scholarship program.”

It seems the books were a hit – along with the event itself.

Over the years, the event has raised more than $300,000 for the NAU Athletics scholarship program.

“We are already planning for next year – including some special pre-event activities with our winemakers,” said Hammerstein. “Stay tuned for 2011!”  

Desert Ridge Gets Uncorked & UnpluggedUncorked & Unplugged rocked Northeast Phoenix yet again. For the 7th year, the folks behind Uncorked & Unplugged joined together with friends and other community organizations to put on a rocking good time under the stars at Desert Ridge Marketplace all to benefit the Boys & Girls Clubs of Greater Scottsdale.

More than 2,000 guests were on hand to sample nearly 50 beers, wines and spirits – including custom margaritas courtesy of San Felipe’s Cantina and flavored martinis chilled down an ice luge courtesy of Blue Martini. In total, more than 20,000 tastes were given out over the course of the weekend.

Rosenblum and Acacia Vineyards were among the most popular tables according to several guests, including Scott Hanson of Scottsdale.

“This sounds odd, but the Rosenblum samples were absolutely fantastic with the barbeque from El Toro,” said Hanson.

In addition to El Toro, guests had several new participating restaurants to choose from including Tommy Bahamas and Wolfley’s Neighborhood Grill as well as long-time vendors Roy’s, Ling & Louie’s and many more.

And as if the food and beverages weren’t enough, the music was again a home run at the event.

“We were so proud to have invited four local artists and bands to be a part of our event including Rocky Lobster – performing at the event for a record 5th year – JJ’s Band, Shirley’s Temple and Adam Shero,” said Becky Hornack of the Boys & Girls Clubs of Greater Scottsdale. “With all this space at Desert Ridge, we always get some great dancers leading the charge on the dance floor all night.”

And for many, the fun didn’t end when the main event did. In fact, there was a hosted post-party in the VIP area with champagne, even more music and sumptuous tastes from Ruth’s Chris’ Steakhouse and others.

As an added treat, all guests got home safely thanks to Hensley and AAA cabs, which provided free rides home to all guests from the event as well as free rides back to their cars in the morning.

“Nice touch,” said Hanson.

All proceeds of the event directly benefitted the programs of the Boys & Girls Clubs of Greater Scottsdale, specifically youth development programs for the 16,000 children and teens served by the organization.

“Through events like this, we are able to continue to give children and teens in our community a safe, positive place to power their potential,” said Hornack.

 

EVENT UPDATEARTICLE & PHOTOS By Alison Bailin Batz

Wine & Dine in the Pines guest and NAU alum Brian Batz with Hotel Weatherford and Charley’s Pub & Grill general manager Matt Bial

Uncorked & Unplugged guests Mandy Scofield and Carol Bailin

52 ARIZONA VINES & WINES - WINTER 2010 ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM

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Cave Creek Wines . . . see ad page 55cavecreekwines.com (602) 482-8600

Arcadia Farms Cafe & Wine Bararcadiafarmscafe.com (480) 941-56655th & Wine5thandwine.com (480) 699-8001

SCOTTSDALEWINERIESPHOENIX - NORTH

PHOENIX - CENTRAL

EAST VALLEYArrivederci - Ahwatukee azitaly.com (480) 759-9292

Casavino - Fountain Hills casavinowinery.com (480) 816-8466 Armitage Bistro

armitagewine.com (480) 502-1641

Centro Paninotecacentropaninoteca.com (480) 443-7162

Magnum’s Cigar Wine Spiritsmagnumscigarwineliquor.com (602) 493-8977

25 Degrees at City North25degreesrestaurant.com (480) 502-1125

Grazie Pizzeria (DC Ranch)grazie.us (480) 538-8466

Portland’sportlandsphoenix.com (602) 795-7481

Razz’s Restaurant & Wine Barrazzsrestaurant.com (480) 905-1308D’Vine Wine Bistro - Mesa

dvinebistro.com (480) 654-4171Il Vinaio - Mesa ilvinaio.com (480) 649-6476Sun Devil Liquors - Mesasundevilcellar.com (480) 834-5050

La Bocca - Tempelaboccapizzeria.com (480) 967-5224

Switch Wine Bar - Phoenixswitchofarizona.com (602) 264-2295

Caffe Boa - Tempecafeboa.com (480) 968-9112

Boa Bistro - Tempeboabistro.com (480) 981-2000

Enotria Land of Winelandofwine.com (480) 513-3086

Down Under Wines - Gilbert downunderwinesandbistro.com (480) 705-7131

Cork - Chandler corkrestaurant.net (480) 883-3773

Su Vinosuvinowineryaz.com (480) 994-8466

Grapeables - Fountain Hills grapeableswinebar.com (480) 816-5959

Caffe Boa - Ahwatukeecaffeboa.com (480) 893-3331

Kokopelli - Chandler (480) 792-6927 kokopelliwinery.com

Bar Biancopizzeriabianco.com (602) 528-3699

AZ Wine Co.azwineco.com (480) 423-9305

Cheuvront Restaurant & Wine Barcheuvront.biz (602) 307-0022

Cru Fine Winescrufinewines.com (480) 222-4098

Grazie Pizzeria (Old Town)grazie.us (480) 663-9797

POSTINO winecafe (602) 852-3939POSTINO Central (602) 274-5144postinowinecafe.com

The Parlor Pizzeriatheparlor.us (602) 248-2480

Phoenix Winesphoenixwine.com (480) 948-9202

Vino 100vino100phoenix.com (480) 502-8466

Terroir Wine Pubterroirwinepub.com (480) 922-3470

Romeo’s Euro Cafe - Gilberteurocafe.com (480) 962-4224

D’Vine Wine Bar & Bistro - Chandlerdvinebistro.com (480) 482-5550

Va Bene - Ahwatukee vabeneaz.com (480) 706-4070

Studio Vino - Tempe . . . see ad page 56 studiovino.com (480) 897-1800

Bombero’s Cafe & Wine Bar vabeneaz.com (602) 687-8466

Cafe Fortecafeforte.com (480) 994-1331

Districtdistrictrestaurant.com (602) 817-5400

Press Coffee, Food & Winepresscoffeefoodwine.com (480) 419-6221

Kazimierz World Wine Barkazbar.net (480) WINE-004

Sportsman’s Fine Winessportsmans4wine.com (602) 955-WINE

Rare Earth Coffee & Wine Barrareearthwine.com (480) 513-6252

Whole Foods Market - Chandler wholefoodsmarket.com (480) 821-9447

My Wine Cellar - Ahwatukeemywinecellarphx.com (480) 598-WINEBombay Spice Grill & Wine Bar

bombayspice.com (602) 795-0020

Bacchus Wine Made Simplebacchusaz.com (480) 368-1743

Crust Pizza & Wine Cafecrustrestaurants.com (480) 948-3099

Javino’sjavinos.com (480) 315-9900

Sportsman’s Fine Winessportsmans4wines.com (480) 948-0520

Whole Foods Marketwholefoodsmarket.com (480) 515-3700

Uncorkeduncorkedwinebar.com (480) 699-9230Village Wine Cellarvwcaz.com (480) 556-8989

Wine Styles - Paradise Valleywinestyles.net (480) 922-4771

Vine Expressions - Gilbertvineexpressions.com (480) 663-0730

Pesto’s Pizza & Wine Bar - Chandlerpestospizza.com (480) 821-0035

The Cove Trattoriathecovescottsdale.com (480) 951-8273

Grapes Pizza & Wine Barazitaly.com (480) 922-8787

Phoenix Urban Grocery & Wine Barfoodconnect.org/phxmarket/ (602) 493-5231 Oakville Grocery

oakvillegroceryarizona.com (480) 596-8200

Taste of Tops - Tempetopsliquors.com (480) 967-2520

Rhythm & Wine rhythmandwine.com coming soon

The Living Room - Chandlerlivingroomwinebar.com (480) 855-2848

WEST VALLEY

Ground Control - Goodyear groundxcontrol.com (623) 935-2604The Tasting Room - Peoria tastingroomaz.com (623) 455-4100WineStyles - Peoria winestyles.net (623) 872-7900

Grazie Pizzeria - Buckeye grazie.us (623) 853-1717

WINE IN THE CITY

Brick Urban Kitchen & Wine Barno website (602) 258-3665

Alchemy - Fountain Hills alchemy360az.com (480) 333-1880

Duck & Decanterduckandecanter.com (602) 274-5429

54 ARIZONA VINES & WINES - WINTER 2010 ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM

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TUCSON

FLAGSTAFF

SEDONA & BEYOND

PRESCOTT

Brix Restaurant & Wine Barbrixflagstaff.com (928) 213-1021

Veritas Int’l Wine Institute & Wine Cellarthebistrorh.com (928) 771-2566Feast

eatatfeast.com (520) 326-9363

Maynard’s Marketmaynardsmarkettucson.com (520) 545-0577

Enoteca Pizzeria & Wine Barenotecarestaurant.com (520) 623-0744

Core Kitchen & Wine Barritzcarlton.com (520) 572-3000

Cuvee 928 Wine Bar & Cafecuvee928winebar.com (928) 214-WINE

Dahl & Diluca A’Roma - Village of Oak Creeka-romasedona.com (928) 284-1556

Bin 239bin239.com (928) 455-3855

Raven Cafe ravencafe.com (928) 717-0009

Jazzy’s Wine Barjazzyswine.com (928) 776-8886

The Wine Loftno website (928) 773-9463

L’Auberge Wine Bar - Sedonalauberge.com (800) 905-5745

WineStyleswinestyles.net (928) 226-8565

Grapes - Jeromeno website (928) 639-8477

Made In Arizonamadeinazsedona.com (928) 282-0707

Armitage Wine Lounge Cafearmitagewine.com (520) 682-9740CataVinos catavinoswines.com (520) 323-3063

The Dish Bistro & Wine Barrumrunnertucson.com (520) 326-0121

Hacienda del Solhaciendadelsol.com (520) 529-3500

Wild West Wines - Sedonawildwestwineco.com (928) 282-5136

Lonesome Valley Bistro & Wine Barlonesomevalleyfood.com (928) 772-2726

NORTH VALLEY

Tonto Bar & Grill - Cave Creek tontobarandgrill.com (480) 488-0698

AZ Wine Co. - Carefree azwineco.com (480) 488-6203Brix Wine Spot - Cave Creekbrixwinespot.com (480) 575-9900

Cellar 13 - Carefree no website (480) 437-1313

Cave Creek Coffee Co. & Wine Barcavecreekcoffee.com (480) 488-0603

Cartwright’s - Cave Creekcartwrightssonoranranchhouse.com (480) 488-8031

Wild Vines - Anthemwildvines.net (623) 465-0010

WINE IN THE CITY

Pastichepasticheme.com (520) 325-3333

Zona78zona78.com (520) 888-7878/296-7878

Vino 100vino100.com (520) 575-8466

Amaro Pizza & Vino Lounge - Cave Creekamaroaz.com (480) 502-1920

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In a saucepan, simmer parsnips with milk and water until tender. Once tender, strain and reserve any excess liquid. Add parsnips to blender and purée. If parsnips are too dry, add a small amount of the reserved liquid. Season with salt and pepper. Finished product should be smooth, but not thin.

The pasta used in this dish is cavatelli, however, your favorite pasta could be used. For example, penne, rigatoni or fusilli would be good substitutions.

1 lb. parsnip, peeled & diced into ¼” pieces1 c. milk1 c. waterTo taste salt & pepper

INGREDIENTS:Parsnip Purée

Pasta

A crock-pot can be substituted for the oven.Preheat oven to 350°. Portion pork into equal sized, large cubes (approx. 6-8 oz.). Season liberally with salt and pepper. In a hot braising pan, add the olive oil and sear pork until all sides are a deep brown color. Once browned, remove pork from pan, add vegetables and brown. When vegetables are done browning, add wine and scrape the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Reduce the wine until it’s completely gone and add the pork back to the pan with the sachet and stock.Bring to a boil, cover and place in the preheated oven for approximate 2 ½ to 3 hours or until pork is tender to the touch. Remove pork and strain sauce through a fine sieve.Once pork is cool to the touch you can pull it into bite-sized pieces. Place sauce back on the stove and reduce to ¼ of its volume, stir in butter and season appropriately.

1 5-7 lb. boneless pork butt/shoulder1 ea. yellow onion, peeled & coarsely chopped2 ea. jumbo carrots, peeled & coarsely chopped3 ea. celery stalks, coarsely chopped3 ea. garlic cloves, smashed

8 ea. thyme sprigs2 ea. rosemary sprigs2 ea. star anise1 ea. cinnamon stick

INGREDIENTS:

In a cheesecloth bag (Sachet):

Red Wine Braised Pork

Cavatelli Porchetta:Semolina Cavatelli, Red Wine Braised Berkshire Pork, Root Vegetable Ragu, Parsnip Purée

CHEF’S TABLE

Provided by Chef Jared Porter of The Parlor Pizzeria in Phoenix

The Parlor Pizzeria1916 E. Camelback Road

Phoenix, AZ 85016(602) 248-2480

www.TheParlor.us

pinch juniper berriespinch fennel seedpinch whole cloves

32 oz. pork or beef stock3 Tbsp. Extra Virgin Olive Oil2 c. red wine2 Tbsp. unsalted butterTo taste salt & pepper

Phot

o by

Mon

ica

Cas

tillo

58 ARIZONA VINES & WINES - WINTER 2010 ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM

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The vegetables used at The Parlor are a seasonal mix of blanched Brussels sprout leaves, grilled broccolini and roasted butternut squash (diced). Your favorite vegetables can be substituted.

Heat a small amount of vegetables and pork in a sauté pan with about 4 oz. of sauce. Reduce sauce to approximately 1/4 of the original volume. Add cooked pasta to pan with pork and vegetables, stirring through to incorporate. Place a small pool of parsnip purée in a bowl and spoon pasta onto parsnip purée.

TO ASSEMBLE FINAL DISH

Root Vegetable Ragu

By Chef Jared Porter

Recommended Pairing:

Caduceus CellarsGold Award Winning

100% Sangiovese2008 Kitsuné

“I would highly recommend Michell Jonas. She is very talented, both artistically and technically. Her

photos can be found throughout most Arizona Vines and Wines issues.”

Publisher, Arizona Vines and Wines

Page 60: Winter 2011

can survive in alcohol concentrations around 25% ABV. This can only be achieved with extreme care and attention given to the wort.

Previous “Strongest Beers in the World” Sam Adams Utopias & Dogfish Head World Wide Stout use such yeasts. It should be noted that even some of the previous record holders use other ingredients or adjuncts besides barley malt to achieve these high alcohol levels.

Here in Arizona, Sonoran Brewing Company uses these yeasts to naturally ferment very high alcohol beers to commemorate

every 100 batches brewed. The first beer in the series, Sonoran 100, was made with 2 row barley malt and maple syrup. The second, Sonoran 200, was made with 2 row barley malt and agave nectar. For the next edition, 300, the exact ingredients have yet to be decided. Zach Schroeder (Brewmaster) says the next beer will likely be higher in alcohol than its predecessors, but as with the 100 and 200, reaching the desired flavor profile will take precedence over achieving higher alcohol.Sonoran 200 comes in a nearly square bottle and weighs in at 19.37% alcohol by volume. Zach pointed out that while some people will travel great distances

to find these rare -never to be reproduced- beers, others are confused. “There’s no other product like it. It’s not a whiskey, it’s not a wine, it’s not a liqueur, technically it’s a beer because of what ingredients are in it, but it’s flat (non-carbonated) and doesn’t look like a beer so it’s its own entity.”

When asked, “How do you serve this?”, Zach answers, “However you like it”. Brewery Ambassador Layrd Mahler says, “Go out and discover it, everybody likes it a different way”. They seem to prefer Sonoran 200 slightly chilled and in a snifter, but they point out that many people have found different and unexpected applications for the unusual brew, including using it in high-end margaritas.

Freeze distillation has raised the bar so high that a naturally fermented beer like Sonoran 200 will never again have an opportunity to receive the Strongest Beer title, but I’m glad there are still people out there pushing their yeast to be the best it can be.

See more at www.scenicbrews.com

Who makes the strongest beer in the world? A: It doesn’t really matter. It may seem a bit ironic, but the media buzz over the recent rash of very high alcohol beers has

garnered little more than a passing nod from the craft brewing world. Over the past couple of years the title “Strongest Beer in the World” has been juggled between the Scottish brewery BrewDog & Bavarian brewery Schorschbräu with few other players even bothering to get involved. As a result of this focused rivalry, alcohol levels in these strong beers have risen from 31% in February 2009 to 55% in July 2010.

Signifying that even these two breweries have tired of the competition, BrewDog named its recent entry “End of History” and Schorschbräu posted a list of 3 things to do before you die, including as item number 3: “Drink Scottish Beer of 55% vol.”

As quickly as it had ended, it began again, when Dutch brewery ‘t Koelschip poured gasoline on the torch and kicked it another three feet forward with the release of “Start the Future”, yet another “Strongest Beer in the World” at 60% ABV. Then everything stopped again...

You may ask why so much innovation in brewing has resulted in so little interest from the brewing community. The simple reason is that no innovation has actually taken place. All of this alcohol concentration has been achieved by employing the same methods used to create a traditional German Eisbock. An Eisbock is made by partially freezing a Bock style beer to concentrate both alcohol and sugars when the ice is removed. This method is also known as freeze distillation. So this ‘alcoholic arms race’ has really been about who has access to the coldest freezer. The competition could easily go much further if there was more than one brewery that cared to compete and if not for the prohibitive cost of the end product. “End of History” retailed for over $700.00 a bottle (only 12 bottles were made, all of which sold).

Although the “Strongest Beer in the World” doesn’t hold the mystique it once did, the driving force behind many of these beers - THE STRONGEST YEAST IN THE WORLD - still holds the attention of many brewers! Yes, before the recent craze of freeze distilling, brewers and microbiologists were working hard to isolate and propagate strains of yeast that could survive in harsh, high-alcohol environments. The current strongest brewing yeasts

POINT OF BREW

Article & Photo By Thomas Ale Johnson

Beer Has Gone Too Far (Finally)

Thomas is an experienced graphic artist and copywriter, he operates TRUST (the gallery), and he brews beer and makes wine. See www.willcoxtrust.com and www.tmf.net for more information

Q:

60 ARIZONA VINES & WINES - WINTER 2010 ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM

Page 61: Winter 2011

POINT OF BREWBeer Has Gone Too Far (Finally)

Ideal Vineyard Land Desirable corner entering Cochise Stronghold Canyon

40 – 160 acres fronts both Ironwood and Cochise Stronghold Rd | Near future Dragoon Mountain Yoga Retreat

Josh MoffittSpecializing in Arizona’s Wine Countryarizonalandbaron.com602.363.5674

Jami AuerbachBringing Yoga, Wine and AZ [email protected]

Multiple parcels availableLand from $3500 an acre and up

JASON LANDEEN, BROKER

DRAGOON MOUNTAIN RETREAT ALONG WITH SUNGLOW RANCH PRESENTS

ANTON MACKEY, JOHN SALISBURY,

JENN CHIARELLI, DR. SANDRA OLIC,

KISHAN SHAH, CAIN & REVITAL CARROLL,

AND GIRISH IN 2011.

www.dragoonmountainretreat.com | www.sunglowranch.com | 602.740.3007

YOGAWINENATURE

Page 62: Winter 2011

FEATURED BREWERY

Sonoran was my favorite Arizona brewery from my first taste in the mid 90’s, so it’s great to taste that the personality of these beers is still clearly identifiable after so much time and changing of the guards. It is readily apparent that Brewmaster Zach appreciates the brewing legacy he has accepted. He doesn’t just take it for granted that the beer will be perfect by following a recipe. He explained, “Every time I brew a batch of beer, I’m tasting it from the handfuls of grain, to the mash tun, to the kettle, to the fermenter.”

You can try the whole lineup of Sonoran beers at the Pinnacle Peak Patio Steakhouse in North Scottsdale. This is where the Sonoran brewery is located, although it’s about as clearly marked as a super-villain’s lair.

My favorite from Sonoran, Inebriator Stout, is currently only available on tap. Burning Bird Pale Ale, White Chocolate Ale, Victorian IPA and Sonoran Root Beer Soda are available in bottles. Their beers have received many accolades and awards over the years. Several bars, liquor stores & markets carry Sonoran brews, and you might even find one of the remaining bottles of Sonoran 200. All of the Sonoran beers are worth the search.

Sonoran Brewing Company

Sonoran Brewing CompanyAt the Pinnacle Peak Patio Steakhouse

10426 East Jomax Road Scottsdale, AZ 85255

(602) 484-7775

www.SonoranBrewing.com

Barley Brotherswww.BarleyBrothers.com

NORTHERN AZ

PHOENIX METRO

TUCSON METRO/SOUTHERN AZ

Grand Canyon Brewing Companywww.GrandCanyonBrewingCo.com

Beaver Street Brewerywww.BeaverStreetBrewery.com

San Tan Brewing Co.www.SanTanBrewing.com

BJ’s Brewhousewww.BJsBrewHouse.com

Barrio Brewingwww.BarrioBrewing.com

Gordon Bierschwww.GordonBiersch.com

Nimbus Brewing Companywww.NimbusBeer.com

Sleepy Dog Brewingwww.SleepyDogBrewing.com

Sonoran Brewingwww.SonoranBrewing.com

Mogollon Brewing Companywww.MogBrew.com

Four Peak Brewerywww.FourPeaks.com

Four Gentle Ben’swww.GentleBens.com

Oggi’s Pizza & Brewing Co.www.Oggis.com

Old Bisbee Brewing Companywww.OldBisbeeBrewingCompany.com

Lumberyard Brewing Companywww.LumberYardBrewingCompany.com

Sun Up Brewingwww.SunUpBrewing.com

Dave’s Electric Brewpubwww.DavesElectricBrewPub.com

BJ’s Brewhousewww.BJsBrewhouse.com

Flagstaff Brewing Companywww.FlagBrew.com

Papago Brewingwww.PapagoBrewing.com

Thunder Canyon Brewerywww.ThunderCanyonBrewery.com

Mudshark Brewing Companywww.MudsharkBrewingCo.com

Oak Creek Brewing Companywww.OakCreekBrew.com

Oak Creek Brewery & Grillwww.OakCreekPub.com

Prescott Brewing Companywww.PrescottBrewingCompany.com

Rock Bottom Brewerywww.RockBottom.com

CRAFT BREWERIES

By Thomas Ale Johnson

62 ARIZONA VINES & WINES - WINTER 2010 ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COM

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Wine & Chocolate: A Recipe For RomanceHAPPY VALENTINE’S DAY!

Wine and chocolate are fare with particularly passionate fans, yet many people have yet to attempt pairing them together. Here are some general rules to guide you in a romantic escapade, but remember there are no absolutes with this combination, let your palate and your sense of adventure be your guide.

When purchasing fine chocolates you are acquiring the finest beans in the world. Chocolate like wine is subject to the different terroirs and the flavors they yield and not all chocolates are equal. Single origin cacao, also known as origin cacao, pure origin cacao and monorigin cacao, refers to cacao beans grown in one particular region; the chocolate made from these beans can be called single origin chocolate. Other references to Grand Cru Cacao and Premier Cru/Estate Grown Cacao are essentially marketing terms. In short, remember single origin chocolate and don’t let fall for these marketing ploys. Better yet, if the beans come from a single estate that means the estate grows some amazing beans.

There are a just a few simple guidelines when preparing your wine and chocolate rendezvous. For starters, a rule of thumb is pair lighter chocolates with lighter bodied wines; darker chocolates with more full-bodied wines and in general it is better to select a wine that is at least as sweet (if not sweeter) than its chocolate partner. Go from light to dark in your journey, starting with white, milk, or lower percentage

By Jacque Cook, Coronado Vineyards

cocoa chocolates and corresponding wines. Specifically, German style Rieslings or Sweet Sparkling wines are nice companions to

strawberries dipped in white chocolate and a nice Merlot or fruity Pinot Noir will pair well with milk chocolates. For dark, bittersweet chocolates or truffles pair rich Zinfandels, Syrahs, or well-aged Cabernets.

Now that you have selected your wine and chocolates for pairing, begin by swirling the wine in the glass, notice the color and the viscosity. Next, sniff the wine and note the bouquet and flavor components. Finally, sip the wine; let it fill your mouth. Notice the wine’s complexity, which flavors can you recollect? Then take a small bite of the chocolate, let it sit on

your tongue until it begins to melt, sip the wine again and swirl together with the chocolate. You will observe that the flavors are released in stages. The first notes should be filled with the acid from the fruit in the wine. Observe the flavors that unfold in the middle and the finish should be identified by many flavors found in both wine and chocolate.

Wine and chocolate parings can be a fun and romantic endeavor and a very popular Valentine’s tradition. Many consider the mysterious powers of chocolate as one of the world’s most powerful aphrodisiacs, but whatever it is in this sweet substance that sends us running back for more, it’s often wine’s most perfect partner.

Visit Coronado Vineyards for their Wine & Chocolate Festival on February 12th, 2011.

ARIZONAVINESANDWINES.COMARIZONA VINES & WINES - WINTER 200964

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Yavapai Restaurant

525 Boynton Canyon Rd • Sedona, Arizona • enchantmentresort.com • 928.204.60004c process coated logo

Fulfill all your senses while you enjoy signature

dishes enhanced by an award-winning wine list.

Breakfast, lunch, dinner & Sunday Brunch.

For reservations call 928.204.6000.

Elevate your expectations.

54857_ENC_AzVines&Wines.indd 1 2/15/10 12:41 PM

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Quick Reference to Arizona Vineyards & Wineries

AlcantaraVerde Valley - 928.649.8463

alcantaravineyard.com

Arizona StrongholdCottonwood - 928.639.2789

azstronghold.com

Bitter CreekJerome - 928.634.7033bittercreekwinery.com

Burning TreeCottonwood - 928.639.2789

burningtreecellars.com

CasavinoFountain Hills - 480.816.8466

casavinowinery.com

KokopelliChandler - 480.792.6927

kokopelliwinery.com

Studio VinoTempe - 480.897.1800

studiovino.com

Su Vino Scottsdale - 480-994-8466

suvinowineryaz.com

CallaghanElgin - 520.455.5322

callaghanvineyards.com

Canelo HillsElgin - 520.455.5499canelohillswinery.com

CharronVail - 520.762.8585

charronvineyards.com

Dos Cabezas WineWorksSonoita - 520.455.5141doscabezaswinery.com

Carlson CreekWillcox - 520.766.3000

carlsoncreek.com

ColibriPortal - 520.558.2401colibrivineyard.com

CoronadoWillcox - 520.384.2993coronadovineyards.com

Crop CircleWillcox - 520.384.3022

SonoitaElgin - 520.455.5893sonoitavineyards.com

Village of ElginElgin - 520.455.9309

elginwines.com

Wilhelm FamilyElgin - 520.455.9291

wilhelmfamilyvineyards.com

Erath’s CimarronWillcox

Fort BowieBowie - 888.299.5951fortbowievineyards.net

Keeling-SchaeferWillcox - 520.766.0600

keelingschaefervineyards.com

Lawrence DunhamPearce - 520.82.GRAPE

lawrencedunhamvineyards.com

CaduceusJerome - 928.639.WINE

caduceus.org

Echo CanyonPage Springs - 928.634.8122

echocanyonwinery.com

FreitasCottonwood - 928.639.2149

freitasvineyard.com

Granite CreekChino Valley - 928.636.2003granitecreekvineyards.com

Four MonkeyElgin - 520.455.9309

fourmonkeywines.com

Kief-JoshuaElgin - 520.455.5582

kiefjoshuavineyards.com

Lightning RidgeElgin - 520.455.5383

lightningridgecellars.com

Rancho RossaElgin - 520.455.0700

ranchorossa.com

Javelina LeapCornville - 928.274.0394javelinaleapwinery.com

JeromeJerome - 928.639.9067

jeromewinery.com

Juniper Well RanchSkull Valley - 928.442.3415

juniperwellranch.com

Juniperwood RanchAsh Fork - 602.971.8586

reunioncamp.com

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For Tasting Room addresses, please see individual map pages

Oak CreekCornville - 928.649.0290

oakcreekvineyards.net

Page Springs CellarsCornville - 928.639.3004pagespringscellars.com

Painted LadySkull Valley - 928.442.9831

paintedladyvineyard.com

Pillsbury Wine Co.Cottonwood - 928.639.0646

pillsburywineco.com

NortherN AZ SoUtheASterN AZ

SoNoitA/elgiN

Clear CreekIniquus Cellars

Cellar Dwellers Wine Co.

Asmundson FamilyAridus Wine CompanyBecker’s Pecan Ranch

Broken GlassGallifant Cellars

Golden RuleOdyssey Cellars

Casa VerdeHannah’s Hill

Venado Cola Blanca

Ruby Sunrise Sándor

Sand ReckonerSierra Bonita

Soaring Spirits VineyardTombstone

Wayward Winds WineryZarpara

San DominiqueCamp Verde - 602.549.9787

garlicparadise.com

Sedona Woman WineSedona

sedonawomanwine.com

Sycamore CanyonSedona - 877.903.WINE

artowine.com

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Page 68: Winter 2011