Land of Tumbling Water summer hike through

the mountains of northern Georgia is a bit like swim-

ming in a lake — one moment you’re moving through a pocket of warm, moist air, the next you’re hit by a cool, dry breeze. The difference can be dramatic and unexpected.

No need for alarm. That cool gust may be a welcome draft from a nearby waterfall.

in northern Georgia, waterfalls are a natural wonder, occuring so frequently it’s actually a little hard not to stumble across them. For avid hikers, waterfall treks are icing on the cake — a great place to catch your breath and soak your feet, and another excuse to hit the trail.

Waterfalls are only one reason RV enthusiasts make annual treks to seek refuge in the northern end of the state. Mix the scenic beauty of dense, sun-dappled forests, tower-ing mountain vistas and sprawling

mountain lakes with the guarantee of some of Georgia’s most pleasant temperatures, and for many, it’s a formula that’s hard to beat.

Just ask Ray Jones, of Calhoun, Ga., who’s been coming to camp in the north Georgia mountains for over 30 years.

On a day that left the rest of the state wilting in steamy tempera-tures, Jones could be found hap-pily kicked back in the cool shade alongside his 22-foot Jayco Class C motorhome.

Nearby, Frogtown Creek gur-gled soothingly, while a short walk away, upper DeSoto Falls plunged to meet it.

“We’ve just always liked this place,” Jones said, who brought extended family along on this trip. “it’s always cool, comfortable and quiet. That’s what keeps us com-ing back.”

“in fact, we make a point to get up here once or twice a year — sometimes three times. Even

in August, it’s cooler than it is at home, and in the fall, you’ll see some of the best color in the state.”

For travelers, Georgia is a destination chock-full of variety. From grassy savannas along the coastal plains to sprawling cotton fields and swampland to the south and glistening urban high-rises in upscale Atlanta. But north Georgia is something altogether different.

here, you’ll find a region that still bears strong vestiges of past people and culture. From its original Cherokee inhabitants to hard-working pioneers, from big-dreaming gold miners to weath-ered loggers, this is a place that pulses with a sense of the past.

yet there is much in the present to attract visitors — quaint towns, whitewater rafting, rock climbing, assorted festivals and recreation opportunities galore. Best of all, the region offers a natural driving loop — with many appealing side trips — that will take you to a handful of some of Georgia’s most popular state parks, campgrounds and natural attractions.

We’ll start at the western side of our route, near the state’s tall-est waterfalls, then arc north and east through the Chattahoochee National Forest, bending back south to view what many consider “The Grand Canyon” of Georgia.

Amicalola Falls State Park

Cherokee indians called it “Amicalola” — roughly translated, “tumbling waters.” And so it is.

At 729-feet, the waterfall at the heart of this park is a whopper — the amoung tall-est cascading waterfall east of the Mississippi River, according to the state parks department. Today, it is an extremely popular

A

By Kimber Williams

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Woodlands and waterfalls combine to make a tripto the North Georgia Highlands a journey to remember

RVers visiting Amicalola Falls State Park find well-groomed campsites with water and electric hookups in a forested setting.

destination for travelers, among the state’s most visited parks.

Though it’s definitely off the beaten path, it’s not hard to find. From the west, follow Georgia highway 136 east to Georgia highway 52 and look for signs for the park turnoff. From the east, pick up Georgia highway 53 and head west to Georgia highway 183, then north to Georgia highway 2.

The drive to the park can be a

treat in itself, especially in the fall, when hardwood trees that cloak these Southern Appalachian foot-hills ignite into a blazing carpet of color.

The 825-acre park features camping, a lodge and restau-rant, and numerous hiking trails, including a well-maintained trail of stairs that will lead to the top of the waterfall.

Like many mountain falls, this

cascading stream is at its most robust in the spring or after a heavy rain, but can be enjoyed year-round, weather permitting. Park at the base of the falls — look for the trout pond, dip a line — and take your time enjoying a hike to the top — or even a portion of the way — beneath a leafy canopy of trees that create an undulating landscape. Arrive early to avoid crowds.

if time is short, just drive to the top of the falls — you’ll find parking and lovely picnic grounds — and peek over the edge. With its panoramic view, you’ll under-stand why this is considered one of Georgia’s seven natural wonders. Parking is $3, as it is in most Georgia state parks.

The park is also a popular des-tination for serious hikers, since the southern terminus to the 2,135-mile Appalachian Trail begins eight miles away at Springer Mountain, a popular access point for hikers. in fact, many tackling the trail north to south spend their last night at Amicalola Falls.

Campers will find 24 tent, trailer and RV campsites — with water and electricity — available for $20 to $25 a night. The campground is open year-round. Park officials say they can accommodate just

about any size of RV, but caution that parts of the campground are steep. “if you can handle a 25 per-cent grade, you’re on your own,” a ranger said.

Visitors will find bath houses and laundry facilities; leashed pets are permitted. Sites may be reserved up to 11 months in advance. For reservations, call (800) 864-7275 or visit www.gastateparks.org. For park information, call (706) 265-4703.

Desoto Falls Campground

Legend holds this site took its name from Spanish explorer hernando de Soto when a breast-plate of Spanish armor was discov-ered in the area in the 1880s.

Scholars initially discredited the find — that is, until a sword dat-ing from the 1540s from one of de Soto’s expeditions was later found in northern Georgia.

Today’s Desoto Falls Scenic Area and campground is con-veniently located just off u.S. highway 129/Georgia highway 19; just follow the signs.

Visitors can pay a small park-ing fee — about $3 — and hike a well-groomed two-mile trail along Frogtown Creek to view Middle and Lower Desoto Falls. you could also

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(center) Hiking trails line the rim of Tallulah Gorge — a chain of waterfalls that flow through a two-mile canyon considered to be one of Georgia’s seven natural wonders. (left to right) Paved trails and stairs guide hikers along the length of Amicalola Falls. An abundance of mountain lakes are sure to appeal to anglers. The soft sand swimming beach on Lake Trahlyta is a popular feature at Vogel State Park. A trip to Helton Creek Falls is a fun diversion on a hot day; follow the signs along U.S. Highway 129.

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elect to self-register at the adjacent campground and stay awhile.

A walk to the falls is a fairly easy ramble; it’s not unusual to see couples tackle it with very young children in tow. The creek is regularly stocked with trout, so bring your flyrod.

To reach the falls, cross a small footbridge; once you’re across, turn right and walk .7 miles to reach the Middle Falls, head left to find the Lower Falls — about .2 miles. Both hikes are short, easy-to-mod-erate treks, and offer an excellent sample of north Georgia’s forested ecosystem. Visit from mid-April to late May, and you’ll be treated to wildflowers and rhododendrons in bloom. in late summer, butter-flies abound.

Feeling ambitious? Only 1.5 miles north on u.S. 129 you can visit Neels Gap and the Appalachian Trail, which you can follow about 2.5 miles to the top of Blood Mountain — the highest point of the Appalachian Trail in Georgia. On a clear day, the views are stellar.

This is Cherokee Country, and reminders are everywhere. Even the name “Frogtown Creek” derives from a Cherokee myth about “Walasi,” a great frog who stood guard over nearby Blood Mountain — considered a holy site in Cherokee culture.

The campground hosts 24 campsites, complete with picnic tables, grills, warm showers, flush toilets, piped water and drinking

fountains. Trailers may not exceed 22 feet in length. Campsites are scattered among two creek-side loops beneath a dense forest can-opy, so you’re more likely to hear the burbling creek than nearby road noise. Several sites actually border the creek.

The campground is open May through October on a first-come, first-served basis; no reservations. Campsites cost about $8 a day. For more information, call (706) 864-6173.

Need provisions? Don’t miss a stop just down the road at Walasi-yi, a state-owned hiking and gift shop at Neels Gap and a central stopover for Appalachian Trail hikers.

Vogel State Park

Lake Trahlyta dominates Vogel State Park like a shimmering jewel — a 20-acre lake near the base of Blood Mountain, ringed by the Chattahoochee National Forest, and adorned with a broad, sandy swimming beach.

Little wonder it’s one of Georgia’s most popular state parks, as well as one of its oldest. This was one of two parks that lit-erally helped establish the Georgia park system in 1931.

Created by the Civilian Conservation Corps, the park is also a living monument to Georgia’s CCC, with a small museum dedicated to the young men. in fact, the park hosts an annual reunion for surviving CCC members.

Vogel State Park virtually buzz-es with fun family activities — on weekends, it can be like watching an anthill. it can also be hard to get into; reservations are a must, particularly in the fall, when sur-rounding forests are ablaze with autumn color and local towns offer a variety of regional festivals celebrating apples, sorghum, folk crafts and Oktoberfest.

here is a park with much to offer. in addition to lovely scenery, you’ll find camping, hiking, water sports, music and regional history, all neatly intermingled.

From renting pedal-boats to sunning on the soft sand beach, hiking the one-mile lake loop or the more challenging 13-mile Coosa Backcountry Trail, playing miniature golf, “beach” volleyball or simply taking in live music in the covered pavilion, this park is a people pleaser.

And at 233 acres, there is enough elbow room that no one feels too crowded. A well-stocked general store at the heart of the park goes far to cover most camping needs. The closest town, Blairsville, is about 11 miles away.

Camping is a big draw here; the park features over 100 well-spaced RV-suitable sites, at $20 to $22 a night. Campsites range from prim-itive to those with electric/water hookups. Comfort stations offer bathrooms and hot showers.

At an altitude of 2,500 feet, the park can grow quite cool, even on summer evenings. Pack and dress accordingly.

Parts of the campground can be hilly; be sure to ask about camp-site access based upon the size of your rig. Reservations are recom-mended, and may be made by calling (800) 864-7275. For park information, call (706) 745-2628.

Moccasin Creek State Park

Lenny and Brenda Clardy were camping in North Carolina when a fellow camper kept raving about a Georgia campground. his tip? Check out Moccasin Creek State Park.

“he told us that the lots were big, it was right on a lake and really shady — just peaceful and quiet,” said Brenda Clardy. “And we’ve always liked the mountains better than the beach.”

Within the week, they loaded

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(left to right) Black Rock Mountain State Park provides 80-mile vistas with sweeping views; campsites afford forested privacy.

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up their 27-foot Cherokee fifth-wheel and headed south, following Georgia highway 76 and south on Georgia highway 197.

They found a state park that seemed steeped in a quiet sense of nostalgia, a relatively flat campground in the Blue Ridge Mountains dotted with sprawling, mature trees smack-dab on the shores of Lake Burton — a 2,800 acre resource managed by the Georgia Power Company — and adjacent to the Lake Burton Fish hatchery, which offers tours.

The park promotes simple plea-sures. Two-seated swings overlook the lake. A fully accessible fishing pier juts out at the mouth of a trout-filled creek open only to seniors, children or anglers who are physi-cally challenged.

Surrounding forests and trails invite hikers to roam. Rental boats lay in tidy rows along the shore-line, beckoning your company.

The park is small, but serene, and a sentimental favorite among campers. “We started coming here 25 to 30 years ago,” said Frank Everett, of Powder Springs, Ga., who arrived in a 30-foot Fleetwood yukon travel trailer.

“At first, we came here only because of friends we knew. Now, we find our way back to take the grandchildren — especially in the spring and fall. They can ride their bicycles, go fishing and enjoy the playground.”

“We like the park itself because

of the atmosphere — laid back, easy-going and friendly,” added his wife, Annette Everett. “And the shade is great.”

The park does project a family-friendly atmosphere. in fact, camp-ing there is such a hit with Andy and Sandy Braselton’s daughters, they clamor to come back several times a year.

“Last year, we asked them, ‘Do you want to go to Disney World or go camping for fall break?’” recalled Sandy Braselton, of Flowery Branch, Ga., who was camping with her family in a Jayco QWest pop-up camper.

“Twice now, they’ve chosen this campground over Disney World,” she explained.

And Braselton’s all for it. “We live in a neighborhood where there’s always someone who wants the kids to come play or go do

something. here, it’s just us. They ride their bikes together, they run outside and play all day.

“For us, that’s the main thing — just being together. here, it’s not about spending money or get-ting things. it’s about being togeth-er. Our friends have all bought trailers now. They get it, too.”

A one-mile nature trail in the park is great for kids, and seasoned hikers will want to try hemlock Falls Trail, which will take you just a few miles along a babbling creek to picturesque hemlock Falls. To reach it, you’ll find a trail head just south of the park entrance. Take note: Depending on conditions, the trail can be wet and muddy.

The park offers camping year-round, though local road condi-tions can limit access. Campers may choose from 54 sites, which offer water and electric hookups,

for $22 to $24 a night.Most sites can handle

RVs up to 40 feet long, though overflow parking is available for detaching

tow vehicles. Visitors will also find flush toilers and

hot showers.Reservations are strongly rec-

ommended and may be made by calling (800) 864-7275. For park information, call (706) 947-3194.

Black Rock Mountain State Park

Named for its rugged, sheer cliffs and dinstinctive dark stone, Black Rock Mountain State Park is a photographer’s dream — a desti-nation known for its magnificent, sweeping views.

Famous for offering some of the most outstanding scenery in Georgia’s Blue Ridge Mountains, the park straddles the Eastern Continental Divide. At an alti-tude of 3,640 feet, it is literally Georgia’s highest state park, as well as some of the oldest land mass on earth.

Though reaching the park’s summit is a steep climb, scenic overlooks along the way are proof that this is going to be worth it. At the summit visitor’s center, venture onto viewing platforms and enjoy the 80-mile vista overlooking the Southern Appalachian range, or settle into a picnic site and soak in the scenery.

To reach the park, follow u.S.

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Good Eats, Great Sites:• Catch a sweeping view of four states from the visitor’s center atop brasstown bald, Georgia’s highest mountain.• Stretch your legs along rim trails at Tallulah Gorge, a 1,000-foot deep chasm that boasts five major waterfalls,

amazing overlooks and chest-pounding climbs.• Lunch in Helen, a re-created European alpine village, complete with cobblestone alleys, old-world towers and

the longest-running Oktoberfest in the South — from September through October.• Stock up on farm-fresh peaches, tomatoes and home-made pecan pralines at farmhouse Produce, east of

Dahlonega on Highway 52.• Take a canoe, kayak or tube trip on the chestatee and etowah rivers with the help of a handful of regional outfitters.• Pan for gold around dahlonega, home of one of America’s first major gold rushes and the dahlonega Gold museum.• Pick up the famed appalachian Trail at any number of locations throughout northern Georgia; grab provi-

sions at mountain crossings in the Walasi-Yi Center, U.S. Highway 129 at Neels Gap.• Take the short, easy hike to Helton creek falls and soak your toes in the cold mountain water. • Rent a boat at moccasin creek state Park and ply the placid pleasures of 2,800-acre Lake Burton.• Feast on platters of old-fashioned Southern-fried chicken, sweet ham, candied yams, and home-made rolls

family-style at The smith House, 84 South Chestatee Street, in Dahlonega.• Catch the vast scenic overlooks atop black rock mountain, Georgia’s highest state park.• Sun yourself on the sandy beach along Lake Trahlyta at Vogel state Park; visit in the fall to view a rolling

blanket of autumn color.• Experience the rich heritage of early Appalachian life at The foxfire museum and Heritage center, in Mountain City.• Bring your bicycle and tackle part of the russell-brasstown scenic byway, a 40.5-mile journey through green

valleys and mountain gaps — north Georgia is also home to the Six Gap Century and Three Gap Fifty Bike Rides, held at the end of September.

Don’t forget

• All-weather hiking shoes for slippery waterfall

trails.

• A bathing suit, for cooling off.

• Water bottles, light day-pack for hiking.

• Camera, to capture fall foliage.

(left to right) Mining for gold and gem-stones is part of the history of the north Georgia mountains. Frank and Annette Everett, of Powder Springs, Ga., enjoy camping with their grand-children at Moccasin Creek State Park. Roadside produce stands showcase the region’s rich agricul-tural bounty.

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14Scenic Route

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Where to Stay:• amicalola falls state Park, 240

Amicalola Falls State Park Road, Dawsonville, (706) 265-4703/ (800) 864-7275

• black rock mountain state Park, 3 miles north of Clayton off U.S. Highway 441 on Black Rock Mountain Parkway, (706) 746-2141/(800) 864-7275

• Lake chatuge campground, 2 miles northwest from Hiawasee off U.S. Highway 76, (706) 745-6928

• creekwood resort, 5730 Highway 356, Sautee, (706) 878-2164

• desoto falls campground, 15 miles north of Cleveland off U.S. Highway 129, (706) 745-6928

• moccasin creek state Park, 3655 Georgia Highway 197, Clarkesville, (709) 947-3194/(800) 864-7275

• fort mountain state Park, 181 Fort Mountain Park Road, Chatsworth, (706) 695-2621/(800) 864-7275

• r-ranch in the mountains, 65 R-Ranch Road, Dahlonega, (706) 864-6444

• Tallulah Gorge state Park, on U.S. Highway 441, Tallulah Falls, (706) 754-7970/(706) 754-7979

• Trackrock campground, 4887 Trackrock Camp Road, Blairsville, (706) 745-2420

• Tugaloo state Park, 1763 Tugaloo State Park Road, Lavonia, (706) 356-4362/(800) 864-7275

• unicoi state Park, 2 miles northeast of Helen via Georgia Highway 356, Helen, (706) 878-2201/(800) 864-7275

• Vogel state Park, 7485 Vogel State Park Road, Blairsville, (706) 745-2628/(800)864-7275

(left to right) Andy and Sandy Braselton, of Flowery Branch, Ga., say their daugh-ters chosecamping at Moccasin Creek State Park over a trip to Disneyworld.The Interpretive Center is a good place to start yourvisit to Tallulah Gorge State Park, one of north Georgia’s first major tourist attractions.

•  For more information about hiking the North Georgia Highlands, visit www.georgiatrails.com.•  For links to hikes that will lead to waterfalls, http://georgiatrails.com/waterfalls.html.•  To make reservations at any Georgia State Park, call (800) 864-7275 or visit www.GeorgiaStateParks.org.

highway 76 to u.S highway 441, turning north. The entrance is three miles north of Clayton — a good town to load up on provi-sions. Look for the brown signs in Mountain City that will lead you up the mountain.

Notice that we said up the moun-tain. As the name suggests, the park is essentially one big mountain.

Though RVs up 40 feet long are permitted, staff caution that the way up is steep and curvy. “it’s a matter of what you’re comfortable with,” one park employee shrugged.

Visitors will find 48 campsites nestled beneath towering patches of rhododendron — as tall as your house!— and hemlock, with water, electric and TV hookups. For $19 to $21 per site, campers can access flush toilets and hot showers.

Springtime brings wildflowers, and plenty of visitors. Ranger-led hikes lead past blooming bowers of flame azalea, rhododendron and mountain laurel, as well as patch-es of ramp, violets and bloodroot. Call for dates and details.

Black Rock is a popular destination for hikers. Near the campground’s camp store you can catch the trail to Ada-hi Falls — a fairly easy half-mile walk. Other trails lead past cascading streams through verdant forests, which provide spectacular fall color.

Reservations are recommend-ed, as visitation remains steady throughout the year. To make a reservation, call (800) 864-7275. For park information, call (706) 746-2141.

Tallulah Gorge State Park

On this journey, we saved the best for last — a visit to Tallulah Gorge, a magnificent two-mile-long canyon that plunges almost 1,000 feet past towering granite walls.

One of Georgia’s most famous series of waterfalls, and an endur-ing tourist attraction, the gorge is among the state’s newest parks, charged with a breath-taking natu-ral beauty.

Little surprise that it’s some-times referred to as the “Niagara of the South.” it is considered among the oldest gorges in the united States.

There is a good reason this

spot is dubbed as one of Georgia’s seven natural wonders. Rugged cliffs tower over the churning water that creates a chain of a half-dozen consecutive waterfalls, dubbed with picturesque names, such as “Tempesta,” “Oceana” and “ L’eau d’Or (Water of Gold).”

To reach the park, head south on u.S. highway 441. The entrance is right on the highway.

The waterfalls are compact and, depending on the time of year, intense. in the course of one mile, for example, the Tallulah River drops about 500 feet. Because the river was dammed by Georgia Power, both whitewater releases (on weekends in April and November) and aesthetic releases (weekends in September and October) push the falls to peak glory.

The Tallulah Gorge Nature Trail traces the canyon rim, pro-viding at least seven scenic over-looks. you can also walk down a steep series of stairs to get a closer look — though the climb back out is extremely strenuous. Cross the river with a memorable stroll across a suspension bridge that dangles 80 feet over the bottom of the gorge.

Arrive early, and you can request one of the 100 free per-mits that allow you to hike to the floor of the gorge. Permits are also required for rock climbing and rappelling. Whitewater paddling is offered in April and November, and biking is allowed on a “Rails

to Trails” path, as well as more than 20 miles of hiking trails.

Start your journey at the Jane hurt yarn interpretive Center, where you can pick up maps of the park’s hiking trails, fill your water bottle, or enjoy exhibits about the region’s history and fragile eco-system. if you can’t make it down into the gorge, watch a film that takes you there, instead.

The park stretches over almost 2,700 acres, and facilities include a campground managed by the Georgia Power Company. Campers may choose among 50 campsites, which accommodate RVs with a maximum length of 40 feet.

Sites offer water, electric and cable TV hookups, flush toilets and hot showers, and easy access to the falls and hiking trails. Campsites vary from $18 to $22 a night.

Though the campground is open year-round, campers are on the honor system to self-register December, January and February. Reservations are strongly urged, and may be made by calling Georgia Power at (706) 754-7979. Non-reserved sites are available on a first-come, first-served basis.

if hiking around the gorge sounds too rigorous, consider crossing highway 441. On the other side of the Tallulah Gorge Dam, visitors can enjoy a white sand beach on Tallulah Lake, with fishing and picnic shelters — a great place to kick back. [