Woodsmith - 030

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Woodsmith Magazine - 030

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  • \VOOOS~tlTH2

    that far off 1arJIe!.He was \l1Iing finishing technique that

    4>5t'entially relied on ull lin the case o(mayonnais, ""fl',tablc 011), some solidsin the mayonnaise to ve the finish somesubstanee, 1.111> ogarette ashes to add aIlttl" ... Ior.Although I probably wouldn't use

    mayonnllillc (\'''Il''table oil will tum ran-cid), I :un "cry fond of oil finishes. Thisreally hit home when I was ready to fmishthe round table shown in this issue.

    In the past, Iprobably would bave useda "normal" polyurethane finish on thistable. And there would have been the longwait ror the finish to dry before I could fIXall the usual problems: bubbles, brushmarks. and drips.But instead of i'Aeingthose old problems,Idecided to use Sutherland Welles' tungoil and polyurethane mixture. ~ IappliedIt, there were still bubbles and brushmarks ... but Ididn't have to wait to fixthem. Apply the oil. then wipe it off -along with all the problems. I have a lotmore confidence in the way the finish willturn out now.

    NEW FACES. B8A:kin October, on the daywe moved out o( our old offices and into ournew building, Mike Henry happend to stopin to see ifwe had a job opening in the artdepartment.

    AL the time, there was much confusion, Iwas tired, and the only job we bad avail-able involved moving box after box o(who-knows-what. We gave Mike a copy ofWood.m!itlt, and asked him to come back.inIIfew days when the dust settled.Mike came beekfour days later, By then

    he bad designed and built a trestle table,drew 16 pieces of artwork showing how thetable was built, and managed to layouteverything the way we need it (or an issue.w. hired him, and immediately put him

    to work on some of the art for this issue.Mike is already proving to be 8 goodaddition to the staff.

    ANOTHER NEW FACE. In the last issue weran a picture of the outside of our newbuilding. The inside is even nicer - thanksin large part to Kay Mulder who designedthe office layout. It's an "open pian"arrangement or modular offioe system(Herman Mmer).For six months, Kay worked with US on

    every detail of the new office. ~ soon asshe was done, we asked her to join US fulltime. Now she's putting her skills to workon the artwork in the issue, photography,and will be in chnrge o( preduetlon (gettingthe issue to the printer on time).

    NEXT IOlAILING. II'ood.'Imi(h No. 31 willbe mailed the week of February 20, 1984.

    ABOI;T1'IIlS ISSUE.Alllhree projeet..

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    Ifyou'dlikeID share awoodwo,'lingUpwitholhe. Then use Itable ..... 10 trim the mitered ends (keep-Ing Ih. bcttcm preee ughl apinsl the(~nce)"" the ~mbly is 41!" wide,TE."pun; Alter the nutered ends are

    trimmed, Ih..y", cut into rounded eomrounding-\'erhit" ilh a pilot to rout (in aC'oN"'trclorkI~f' direction) the insideedltl' of Ih,' !'rame. leaving a ~. shoulder._ Step 2 in ~ig. 9.TlIIRII('I'T The out.ide lodgeon Ihe back

    side o( the frame i.also routed with. Y,rounding-ever bit (moving clockll:i$el -but this lime there', no shoulder, see Step3 in Fig. 9,

    f'()I'RTIi C('T. The final cut is to rout arabbet for the rmrror itself, This rut i~madeu"ing. 'ISo. rabb1 .lightly deeper than the groove (or the plill(', see Dclail ;; in fi~.9.



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    At thi" point. the mirror frame lookedsharp enough by ilbelf that I was temptedt~justhangitonthewoU. But itdidn't t.akelong berore 1ran into lh~"how high to hangit" problem. and dedded (apin) that theswivel stand was really a good idea.


    The first step in building the mirror standis to laminate two pieees of 1/4 lumber('v, thick) 10 produce the a~'thickstock needed for each upright. Then thelaminated stock i. eut to the final size fotthe uprights. see Fig. 10.si.or ~IIlKTIS.:S.A doubl.,.slot mortise

    and spline joint is used 10 join both thecenter stretcher and the legs to theupright.;. This joinl it; similar to a mortiseand wnon. except 5101.< (mortises) are cutin both pi(!CCS being joined. rather than inonly one piece. Then the two halves arejoined with a spline. which aets as a tenon.

    Using the router jig shown on page 22. Irouted two mortises (for attaching thelegs) centered on the l%"'wide faces of theuprights, see Fig. 11. Then 1 cut anothermortise (for the streteher) centered on the2"-"ide face.

    MOLDISGTUE I.'PRICII'IS. After the mor-tises are cut. all four edges of the uprightsare routed wilh a ""'- rounding-over bit.These molding cUU;stop 3" from the lOpend of the upright. and 6" (rom the bottom(mortised) end. and have a 'I"," shoulder ononly the 2"-wide races. see Fig. 12.

    Making the uprights requires two dif-ferent setups on the router table. The firststep is to attach a long Lshaped auxiliaryrenee to the router table. see Fig. 13.Thenslop blocks are clamped at both ends of thefence. One block is 2T' to the left of thecenter of a ~" rounding over bit. and theother is 30" to the right or the bit. seet'ig. 14.With the stop blocks in these positions,

    the molding will slop 20/. from the top ofthe uprights, and Wo'- from the bottom.To rout the first edge, position the

    upright on the router table with the2",wide edge race down. and the bottomend of the upright against the stop on theright. Keep the top (left) end oflhe uprightseveral inches away Cromthe bit. and ~t.artthe router. Then use a kiss and run move-ment so the router bit doesn't burn thewood. To do this. swing the top end of theupright into the bit, and immediately startsliding the upright toward the left stop.Next. rotate the upright so the opposite2"-wide face is down on the router table,and rout this edge.At this point, only two diagonal edges

    have been routed. see Detail, Fig. 14.Routing the remaining two edges requiresreversing the position of the stop blocks.and flipping the uprilt end for end, seethe second setup in Fig. 14. Rout the.-emaining two edges in the same manner


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    A.ftH the legs are cut to size, rout ~" x '23 AGUlI '2"(0 }~. slot mortises on the end of each leg - lout AII:HAHO U~HTON ROUTtIt TAau ~ HAJtOWOOO ,that attaches to the uprights. see Fig. 23. I~;~~n."nON I ""'HE(Again, I used the router jig 00 page 22 ~o

    (NOlt!,cut the mortises.) '~ !1IOLOINC. Then using a ~ .. rounding.over bit on the router table. rout only the


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    top edge on aU four legs, see Fig. 23.LlG i f'OSfTASSt;!II8LY. After the legs are routed, -1''. tONG. UG' ,F;&M

    they're finished sanded and glued to the " w,," rii,g:u alf I....OlfP SlOT A / EN Of ";'*1(;:\ \ ___,uprights. Then cut splines to lit the rnor- FIG\.IItEU flGUl126 "'toN HOUONnATuses, and glue the legs Y'Cramthe bouem ,. Stot Of MlKItORof the upri~hl, see Fig. 24. You can use iFaAM.E.MUk HflGHthand screws and pipe clamps (see Tips and , FOI: INSI...,Techniques. Woodsmilh No. 29), or hand ~pressure to clamp the legs in position. -

    --L """"'-GTHE FINAL finiNGAt this point, both the mirror frame and

    .....w,f- 2QVw' -.;:the stand are basically complete. The only MAlIC lOCATION Of

    thing that needs to be done is to position THREADEDINS,.T ....lOt UPliGHtSlOEthe mirror frame on the stand and install -ON ONi SIDE 111 hi)the threaded inserts. t" I'1":-POSITlO~ THE FRAME. To position the I AGU., 21mirror frame, place a 'Y,- spacer block I Cbetween the bottom of the mirror frame '. OfEP~0lE Foland Lhe top of the stretcher. see Fig. 25. - S'MVlL ntUAOtO\Vlth the frame in this position, mark th. .,' INSBt ~-1'MEASURE OtSTANa '-.location for the threaded insert on Oll~side FItOM '.', ~ '"."of the mirror frame. see Fig. 26. IOnOM STanCHERTo be sure the insert on the other side is I ClHTU lNSUT HOU ON A.At Of MC)lOO lOGE-

    located in exactly the same position, mea- 31V.- ,-,...- ...sure the distance from the mark to the SWIm MAlaOI SClEWbottom of the frame. Then use this dis-

    k ... SlACE. ItOCIC) AND l ... EADlD INsearranee to lind the location for the insert on ~the other side.

    'll ~~;The ~. holes for the threaded in..serts ~are drilled v,,' deep. centered on the flat , .MlRIOI

    . ~ jspot on the outside edge of the frame ('Ii. I-- 1CV1.- r .,0from the back edge). see fig. 27. Note, As t L -, "[ was inslAlling the inserts. [ decided to 0' s E _3..PllGKTcoat the outside threads with epoxy to help J_ , I -' ...prevent them Cram rotating in the hole. _!.TlUPIIRROR UACK.The IYi .. -deep rabbet ~-"that was routed on the back of the mirror n

  • \Vh~n I ", .. building the frame [or thecheval rmrror shown in this i.. ue, [ CUt aMlboot on Ih(' back side of the frame with aruuter lind rnhllCt bit. How