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ANNUAL REPORT 2003-04
77
The woollen industry in the country
is small in size; however it is widely
scattered. It is basically located in
the States of Punjab, Haryana, Rajasthan,
U.P., Maharashtra and Gujarat. Forty per-
cent of the woollen units are located in
CHAPTER-VII
WOOLLEN TEXTILE INDUSTRY
Table 7.1
The woollen industry presents the following scenario:
(a) Total number of registered units 718
(b) Total number of persons employed in woolen industry 12 lakh (approx)
(c) Total exports (excluding handmade carpets, rugs, durries, etc.)
2001-02 Rs.1379 crore
2002-03 Rs.1289 crore
2003-04 Rs.1513.29 crore
Source: DGCI&S, Kolkata (April-Feb., 2004)
(d) Total import of raw wool
2001-02 72.74 mn kg
2002-03 73.93 mn kg
2003-04 75.24 mn kg
Source: DGCI&S, Kolkata (April-Feb., 2004)
(e) Total import of woolen & cotton rags
2001-02 68.18 mn kg
2002-03 52.17 mn kg
2003-04 70.37 mn kg
Source: DGCI&S, Kolkata (April-Feb., 2004)
Punjab, 27% in Haryana, 10% in
Rajasthan, while the rest of the States ac-
count for the remaining 23% of the units.
A few of the larger units are located in
Maharashtra, Punjab, U.P., Gujarat and
West Bengal.
The Woollen Industry in India broadly falls
under two sectors:
A. Organized Sector:
i) Composite Mills
ii) Combing Units
iii) Worsted and Non-worsted Spinning
Units
iv) Machine-made Carpet
Manufacturing Units
B. Decentralized Sector:
i) Hosiery and Knitting
MINISTRY OF TEXTILES
78
ii) Powerloom
iii) Hand-knotted Carpets, Druggets
and Namdahas
iv) Independent Dyeing Processing
Houses
Since indigenous production of fine qual-
ity wool required by the organized mills and
the decentralized hosiery sector is very lim-
ited, India depends largely on import, Aus-
tralia being the major supplier. New-Zea-
land wool, which is rich in lustre is being
imported mainly for carpet sector for
blending it with indigenous wool. Similarly,
for the shoddy sector, import of pre-muti-
lated woollen/synthetic rags is also al-
lowed under OGL.
Indigenous Production:
The production of indigenous raw wool in
the country during the last three years has
been as under:
Table 7.2
Year Quantity in million kg
1999-2000 47.90*
2000-2001 49.20*
2001-2002 50.70**
2002-2003 52.11(Estimated)
* Provisional
** Anticipated
(Source: Department of Animal Husbandry)
Table 7.3
Installed Capacity as on 31.03.03:
i) a) Wool Combing. 29.28 Mn kg
b) Synthetic Fibre Combing 3.57 Mn kg
ii) Worsted Spindles (No.) 6.04 lakh
iii) Non-Worsted Spindles (No.) 4.37 lakh
iv) Powerloom (No.) 7228(Approx) (decentralized sector)
v) Machine made carpet sector. 8.10 lakh Sq. Mtr., 2.27 Mn kg
Capacity permitted by way of Information Memorandum and Letter of Intent as well as for 100%
EOU from 1/04/2003 to 30/09/2003.
(i) Details of Industrial Entrepreneur Memorandum (IEM) received from Secretariat
for Industrial Assistance (SIA) during 1st April, 2003-30th September, 2003:
Table 7.4
Sr.No. Month Nos. Items Annual Capacity
1. — 2 Woollen Carpets 24,000 sq.mtr
2. June 1 Woollen Shawls 38,000 kg
3. June 1 Polycoster Blended Yarn 639 M.Ton
4. July 1 Weaving Woollen Fabrics 3,00,000 mtr
5. July 1 Woollen Yarn 7,00,000 kg
6. July 1 Cotton & Woollen carpets 25,000 sq. mtr
7. July 1 Manufacture of shawls on weaving machine 12,000 sq. mtr
8. —— 1 Blanket & Woollen blended except Knitting 1,50,000 nos.
ANNUAL REPORT 2003-04
79
CENTRAL WOOL
DEVELOPMENT BOARD,
JODHPUR
The Central Wool Development Board
(CWDB), Jodhpur, constituted by the Gov-
ernment of India, Ministry of Textiles in 1987
and supported by it with grants in aid to
promote growth and development of wool
and woollens, continued to pursue its ob-
jectives through various activities like mar-
ket intelligence, improvement of wool and
woollens, price stabilization, and quality
control.
At the end of the 9th Five Year Plan period,
the CWDB undertook Zero Based Budg-
eting exercise in respect of the 12 schemes
it was administering in the 8th and 9th Plans
for development of wool viz. (i) Integrated
Sheep & Wool Development Project (ii) An-
gora Rabbit/Pashmina Development Pro-
gramme under UNDP (CCF-I); (iii) Inte-
grated Angora Rabbit Development
Project; (iv) Machine Shearing-cum-Train-
ing Project; (v) Mini Wool Scouring Plant;
(vi) Wool Testing Centre; (vii) Industrial
Service Centre; (viii) Weaving & Design-
ing Training Centre, Kullu (H.P.); (ix) Mar-
ket Intelligence Network; (x) Area Based
Project for Wool & Woollens Development;
(xi) Human Resource Development Pro-
gramme; and (xii) Woollen Expo. It de-
cided to merge these into 5 schemes in
the 1st year of the 10th Plan (2002-03), and
simultaneously, in discussion with the
States, to design a larger programme with
specific targets, greater flexibility in imple-
mentation and greater emphasis on the
marketing of wool. This programme ini-
tially conceived as a Technology Mission
for Wool was approved in consultation with
the Planning Commission as the Inte-
grated Wool Improvement Programme
(ii) Details of Industrial Licence from SIA, New Delhi for the period of 1st April, 2003 to
31st March, 2004:
Table 7.5
Sr.No. Nos. Items Annual capacity
1. 1 Polyester Blended Yarn 639 M. tonnes
Estimated production of woollen items (Quantity in million)
Item Unit 97-98 98-99 99-2000 2000-01 2001-02 2002-03
Worsted Yarn (Kg.) 42.0 44.0 45.00 43.0 44.00 44.00
Woollen & Shoddy
Yarn (Kg.) 63.5 58.0 58.0 60.0 59.0 58.00
Worsted wearable
Fabric (L in Mtrs.) 66.0 68.0 68.0 64.0 65.00 66.00
Knitted Hosiery
Goods (Kg.) 13.5 14.0 14.0 14.0 14.00 13.00
Non-worsted
Fabric (L in Mtrs.) 17.0 15.0 16.0 18.0 18.00 17.00
(Source: Indian Woollen Mills Federation, Mumbai).
MINISTRY OF TEXTILES
80
(IWIP), with a budget of Rs.35 Crore for
the period 2003-04 to 2006-07. The IWIP
has two main components i.e. Improve-
ment of Wool Fibre and Quality Process-
ing of Wool. It is being implemented as a
fully funded Centrally Sponsored Scheme
since July 2003.
For the year 2003-04, a sum of Rs. 667
lakh was allocated to the Board for its vari-
ous schemes and programmes. This allo-
cation included provision of Rs. 600 lakh
for Plan Schemes and Rs.67 lakh for Non
Plan. The Board utilized Rs.610 lakh on
Plan side on the implementation of its vari-
ous schemes and projects and Rs. 60.23
lakh on Non-Plan side on establishment
and other administrative expenditures in
the year of 2003-04.
An additional amount of Rs.400 lakh was
also allocated to the CWDB for 2003-04
to implement the Special Package for the
State of Jammu & Kashmir for the devel-
opment of sheep, wool and Pashmina. It
has been designed in line with the IWIP,
with components for genetic improvement,
purchase of cross breed rams, health cov-
erage, product development, supplemen-
tary nutrition, strengthening of extension
services and grading centres, publicity, in-
formation, training etc. The Board incurred
an expenditure of Rs.390 lakh in 2003-04.
The Board has entered into an arrange-
ment with the NIRD for a concurrent evalu-
ation of its schemes. The NIRD will make
field visits to assess and understand the
issues in implementation, and hold quar-
terly workshops to give feedback as well
as suggestions for correctives that need
to be made in the delivery as well as the
guidelines of the projects. The Concur-
rent Evaluation Exercise will run parallel
with the project and will cost the CWDB
approximately Rs. 49 lakh for 4 years.
The main features of the IWIP alongwith
funds allocated and expenditure made in
the year 2003-04 are given below:-
A) IMPROVEMENT OF WOOL
FIBRE
(1) Sheep and Wool Improvement
Scheme: Under the Sheep & Wool Im-
provement Scheme (SWIS) an integrated
approach has been adopted for improve-
ment of wool production and wool quality
by improving the stock, health and care of
the sheep, and setting up a system of mar-
keting that will recognize and reward qual-
ity and thereby encourage the producer
to intensify his inputs into sheep breeding
and sheep rearing. A provision of Rs.263
lakh was made for 2003-04 to cover 18
lakh sheep. The Board was able to spend
all funds available during the year.
(2) Development of Speciality
Fibres:
(i) Development of Pashmina: The
Pashmina Development Project started
under the UNDP assisted programme in
2001 in Ladakh, is proposed to be
strengthened in the 10th Plan by adopting
an integrated and intensive approach to
(i) provide necessary inputs for breed
improvement, training, health care and
nutritional supplementation for Pashmina
goat breeding and development;
ANNUAL REPORT 2003-04
81
(ii) stabilize marketing arrangements
through cooperatives/federations of
Pashmina wool producers; (iii) establish
means for early stages of processing
within the region and its operation by wool
producers’ federations for first stage value
addition; and (iv) increase the income from
wool of the goat rearers and sustain their
interest in this activity as a reliable means
of livelihood. A provision of Rs.60.75 lakh
was made for 2003-04 to cover 500
families, which was spent entirely.
(ii) Angora Wool Development: Look-
ing to the economic returns from proc-
essed Angora fibre and the potential for
employment generation in remote hilly
areas, the efforts to develop Angora dur-
ing 10th Plan is proposed to be continued
by adopting the integrated approach and
strategy of the UNDP assisted Fibres &
Handicraft Programme (FHAP) project to
promote Angora development as a sus-
tainable livelihood activity. The Board was
able to spend Rs 1.42 lakh in the year
2003-04.
(3) Support Services:
(i) Marketing and Promotional
Activities: The scheme supports activities
such as organizing seminars and
workshops, studies; publishing a quarterly
news magazine “Wool Ways”, literature
and statistics on wool sector, organizing
fairs and sale-cum-exhibitions for rural
wool weavers; and conducting publicity
campaigns to promote utilization of wool
and development of sheep husbandry
practices. Woollen Expos would be
organized to provide marketing support for
woollen products and to help widen
outreach to buyers and open new
marketing avenues for woollen products
of the wool cottage industry is an important
component. An expenditure of Rs 27.12
lakh was incurred in 2003-04 under these
activities.
(ii) Marketing Intelligence Network (MIN):
The MIN already set up by the CWDB was
strengthened to build up reliable informa-
tion system for collection of information of
prevailing market rates of wool and yarn,
latest trends and transactions of wool and
woollen products to serve the purpose of
the primary and most needed link in the
wool processing chain, the wool produc-
ers. The information gathered from the
main Mandis is relayed to the CWDB, the
Departments of Sheep and Animal Hus-
bandry, and thence to dissemination
sources like local language dailies, and
Rs. 0.81 lakh was spent on this activity in
the year 2003-04.
(iii) Strengthening of Central Wool De-
velopment Board: The CWDB is far too
slim to take the weight of the IWIP and
make an effective job of it. The Board’s
manpower strength is proposed to be
augmented through short-term contracts
and consultancies. However no funds
were spent on this activity in the year
2003-04.
(iv) Research, Consultancies, Studies,
Training & Monitoring/Evaluation of
schemes: The R&D activities concentrate
on improvement in the breed of Indian
sheep in order to improve its wool yield
and wool quality by improving yield and
micron of the apparel grade found in the
MINISTRY OF TEXTILES
82
Northern Temperate region; increasing the
quantity of the best known kind of carpet
grade wool in the country found on the
back of the Magra, Jaisalmeri and Bikaneri
sheep; and decreasing the micron of and
increase the percentage of white wool in
the Deccani breed. Projects are given to
research organizations in the country for
this purpose. Rs. 15.39 lakh was spent on
these activities during 2003-2004.
(B) QUALITY PROCESSING
OF WOOL
(i) Technical and Consultancy Serv-
ices: The sector has a dearth of manage-
rial and technical personnel, even within
Government, only selective service cen-
tres and quality testing centres of the Tex-
tile Commissioner’s Office or the Textiles
Committee have manpower with woollen
industry experience. This problem is pro-
posed to be tackled by both short and long
term solutions. In the short term, given the
shortage of technically trained manpower,
an innovative approach has been adopted
to bridge the gap in expertise, till, in the
long term, adequate facilities are set up
and a turnout of trained manpower is
achieved.
(ii) Human Resource Development: In
order to achieve sustainability and quality
assurance by developing a large enough
pool of human resource that is acquainted
with and trained in state-of-the-art tech-
nologies, and instilled with the attitudes
Shearing of sheep
ANNUAL REPORT 2003-04
83
required for quality output, a long term plan
is required for (i) reviewing curricula and
syllabi of technical training institutes and
colleges for wool content (ii) strengthen-
ing capabilities of teachers and increas-
ing the specialization of teachers in this
sphere; (iii) starting in-service training, vir-
tual and real, for all levels of personnel in
the wool industry; and (iv) developing an
institute as a Centre for Excellence in Wool
and a nodal body for managing this work.
This effort to do this is being made in close
consultation with Australia, as part of the
India Australia Joint Business Group on
Natural Fibres and Textiles (JBG).
(iii) Common Facility Centres:
a) The Carpet Finishing Centres would
promote medium and high-knotted
woollen carpets and are proposed
to be set up in 3 major clusters of
the carpet industry viz. Jaipur,
Bhadoi and Srinagar in participation
with the industry through the carpet
associations with emphasis on
improving the dyeing techniques
and technology and the washing
and drying processes.
b) The Shawl Finishing Centres are
proposed to be set up in order to
sustain increase in the export of
shawls. The quality of shawls will
be upgraded by improvement in the
quality of yarn as well as finishing of
shawls. During the year approval to
a SFC in Ludhiana was given.
(iv) Research, Development and
Studies:
a) Research & Development - In order
to create innovative blends of wool
in combination with jute, cotton,
polyester, silk and flax for innovative
fabrics and textures for furnishings,
made ups and apparels in a
technically correct manner with an
understanding of their
characteristics, of durability and
function for their use, R&D activities
are proposed to be taken up.
Carpet grade wool would require
R&D support for improvement in the
quality of yarn with a special
emphasis on yarn making and
dyeing, and machine improvement
and innovation. R&D into effluents
treatment and pollution control
would also be encouraged.
b) Studies - Research and data
support that does not require
laboratory facilities but is necessary
for the industry to improve its
efficiency, market response and
value addition are proposed to be
taken up through well established
organizations and institutes of
management and research to
support the long felt needs of the
industry.
Under the Quality Processing of Wool
component of the IWIP, Rs 6.85 lakh was
spent during the year 2003-04.