Warfare is rough on shoes. Army shoes must stand up under hard marching, mud,

snow, and the severities of the weather. Warfare requires a lot of shoes, and it

requires stout shoes. As the Army grew to its present strength of 8,300,000 men,

the requirements for shoe leather grew, too. As more men went overseas, living

and fighting under the harsh conditions of combat areas. Army requirements rose

again. As we began redeployment for the one-front war, more than 5,000,000 men

were overseas. But supplying these men is not the only military responsibility.

The Army also has been outfitting French soldiers fighting alongside our own troops in Germany. Filipino soldiers aiding in

cleaning the Japs out of the Philippines also are supplied Army shoes. Last year 5 per cent of the Army's issue of shoes

went to meet military responsibilities other than those of our own troops. This year the figure will rise to about 10 per cent.

The Army does not supply new shoes to German or Japanese prisoners of war or to Italian service units (former prisoners).

Prisoners receive shoes that are too worn for our own soldiers. Italian service units receive rebuilt shoes. Khaki uniforms, a

color popular in many of today's fashions. And this was only the beginning of how military fashions such as WWII military

clothing would influence everyday styles. From WWII leather bomber jackets to the loose, rip-stop combat pants of the

Vietnam War, vintage military styles have inspired and influenced the creations of designers worldwide.

Skirts became shorter and narrower to conserve fabric. Materials were needed for heels, which were limited to a very

sensible and conservation-minded one inch in height. Cork and wood became common heel materials, and the wedge style

heel became even more popular than it had been in the prior decade, due to its sure-footed, comfortable feel. The colors of

clothing during this time were of plain and solemn colors. Most outfits were of a solid color such as ivory (for women’s

wedding suits), black, navy, or other dark colors.

Coco Chanel

Chanel's number one trademark in any decade, including the 1930s, is menswear inspired pieces. The

1930s is when Chanel's signature color pairs of navy and white, beige and black, and burgundy and

white were first introduced. Not just a designer, not just big name, Coco Chanel was an icon in the

fashion industry - she was passionate about clothing design and a trendsetter whose influence can still

be seen today. The French fashion guru is charged with opening up the world of haute couture - high

fashion. Despite her passing on, Coco Chanel is to this day one of the most revered women in fashion

design lore.

Madame Grès

Madame Grès was known her whole career for her perfect draping technique.

Evening gowns cut on the bias, draped, and pleated in grecian style are a direct

homage to Grès style. Known for designing with the immediacy of draping with cloth,

Grés was the self-committed and consummate artist, never the agreeable couturiére.

Her white salon bespoke her austerity in engineering and her clarity in grace.

Mainbocher

As the designer of Wallis Simpson's two piece crepe wedding dress, Mainbocher

influenced an entire decade of bridal wear. He also popularized “Wallis blue,” a color that

he used exclusively in designs for his muse. He used godets in skirts, and shoulder bows

to catch the folds of draped bodices. Frequent Mainbocher suit treatments in the 1930s

included short capelet effects or dropped shoulders widening into full sleeves. The

designer knew his clientéle personally and designed for the lives they led, specializing in

evening clothes. For resort wear he ventured into a mix-and-match ensemble consisting of

matching top, skirt, bathing suit, and hat. Slim, demure black wool dresses for daytime

would sport white chiffon interest at the throat. . From the start, Mainbocher specialized in

simple, conservative, elegant, and extremely expensive fashions, the luxury of cut,

materials, and workmanship that could only be recognized by those in the know. Most

importantly, the clothes, exquisitely finished inside and out, gave self-confidence to the women who wore them.

.

Madeleine Vionnet

Like Madame Grès, Vionnet favored bias cuts, and draping Madame Grès. Though

revolutionary at the time, Vionnet made it a point to show off the female figure. The cowl

neck and halter silhouettes we made populare by Vionnet. Unlike many of the designs of

her contemporaries, which she considered "strident," her dresses were soft in style. She

was the first designer to take sportswear and make it for every possible need. Golf skirts

and bathing suits were as important to her as evening dresses. Her designs shared a set

of characteristic features. Bathing suits were made with the same halter necklines and

out of the same fabrics as her dresses. Wrapped or peasant-inspired tops appeared in

bathing suits and dresses alike. Jersey, denim, chambray, and taffeta were equally

topstitched, spaghetti ties were wrapped around the waists of leisure and dress clothes,

and wool was used for leotards as well as wedding dresses.

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