Yarns for Knitting

8/6/2019 Yarns for Knitting

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YARNS FOR KNITTING

By Rishika Nathani

1.0. TEXTILE FABRIC:

Textile fibres can be produced directly from webs of fibres by bonding, fusing or

interlocking to make non woven fabrics and felts, but their physical properties tend to

restrict their potential end uses.

There are three principal methods of mechanically manipulating yarn into textile

fabrics: interweaving, intertwining and interloping. All the three methods have

evolved from hand manipulated techniques through their application on primitive

frames into sophisticated manufacturing operations on automated machinery.

1.1. INTERWEAVING:

It is the intersection of two sets of straight threads, warp and

weft, which cross and interweave at right angles to each

other. Weaving is by far the oldest and most common

method of producing continuous lengths of straight edged

fabric.

1.2. INTERTWINING

It includes a number of techniques, such as braiding and knotting, where threads are

caused to intertwine with each other at right angles or some other

angle. These techniques tend to produce special constructions whose

uses are limited to very specific purposes.

1.3.INTERLOOPING:

It consists of forming yarn(s) into loops, each of which is

typically only released after a succeeding loop has been

formed and intermeshed with it so that a secure ground loop

structure is achieved. The loops are also held together by the

yarns passing from one to the next.

Fig. 1.plain weave structure

showing warp and weft

Fig. 2.braiding technique

shown


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Knitting is the most common method of interlooping and is

second only to weaving as a method of manufacturing of textile products

2.0. YARNS FOR KNITTING

2.1. INTRODUCTION:

Yarns are the raw materials manipulated during knitting. A yarn is

defined as an assembly, of substantial length and relatively small cross-

section, of fibres or filaments, with or without twist. The term thread is

used in place of yarn and does not imply that it is as smooth, highly

twisted and compact as a sewing thread.

Textile fibres are the raw materials of the yarns into which they are

spun. There are two configurations of fibres: staple fibre and filament

fibres.

Staple fibres are of comparatively short length-for example, cotton and wool fibres,

which require spinning and twisting together in order to produce a satisfactory length

of yarn of suitable strength.

A filament is a fibre of indefinite length- for example silk, which requires combining

with other filaments, usually with some twist, in order to produce a yarn of sufficient

bulk.

Yarn count numbering systems:

A yarn count number indicates the linear density to which that particular yarn has been spun.

An important consideration in choosing a yarn count is the machine gauge which defines the

spacing of the needles in the needle bed.

Obviously, the finer the machine gauge, the finer the required yarn count. Choice of yarncount is also restricted by the type of knitting machine. employed and the knitting

construction .

The count in the turn, influences the cost, weight, opacity, handle and drapability of the

resultant structure. In general, staple spun yarns tend to be comparatively more expensive and

Fig. 3. Weft knitting

structure.

Fig. 4.wool-animal fibre

based yarn most

commonly used for

knitting


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finer their count because finer fibres are more exacting spinning process are necessary in

order to prevent the yarn from showing an irregular appearance.

Unfortunately, a number of differently based count numbering systems are still currently in

use. Historically most systems are associated with particular yarn spinning system. Thus a

yarn spun on the worsted system from acrylic fibres may be given to worsted count number.

The worsted count system is of the indirect type based on length per fixed unit mass i.e. .the

higher the count number, the finer the yarn. The weight is fixed (1 lb.) and the length in unit

(number of 560 yard hanks) varies.

The denier system is of the direct type based on mass per fixed unit length. The length unit is

fixed (9000 m) and the weight unit (in grams) varies.

The Tex system was introduced as universal system to replace all the existing system. As Tex

sometimes produces account number having a decimal point, it has been found more

satisfactory to multiply the count number by 10 to give a deci Tex number. The Tex system

has not been universally accepted, particularly for spun yarns.

2.2.CLASSIFICATION OF YARN ACCORDING TO FIBRES:

2.2.1PLANT BASED:

COTTONS

All varieties of cotton have a dull finish unless mercerized. Cotton yarn has minimal

elasticity unless blended with other fibres. Pure cotton is useful for projects that require

structure such as purses and tote bags, placemats, and other utilitarian items.

FIBRE TYPE DESCRIPTION

Egyptian

cotton

Longest cotton fibre, smoother and softer than other cottons.

Prima cotton Cross between Egyptian and American cottons. Intermediate properties.

American

cotton

Medium-long fibre, readily takes on dye. Available in widest variety of colours.


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OTHER PLANT FIBRES:


Linen Strong fibre, good for warm weather items. Wrinkles easily.

Rayon Made from processed wood pulp. Inexpensive and highly absorbent, natural

sheen.

2.2.2. ANIMAL BASED FIBRES:


Merino wool Softer than cotton, tends to pill

Icelandic wool Strong but scratchy.

Mohair Lofty and luxurious, best used as an outer layer. May feel

scratchy.

Cashmere Soft, luxurious, expensive

Alpaca Very warm. Suitable for accessories such as scarves

Angora Very soft, tends to shed. Best used in pure form as an accent material, or

blended with other fibres.

Silk Exceptionally strong, lustrous, and shiny. Good for summer wear

2.2.3. SYNTHETIC FIBRES:


Acrylic Washes well, inexpensive. Good choice for beginners and for items

designed for babies or pets.


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Nylon Strong, elastic, washes well. Not ideal for garments unless blended with

other fibres.

Nylon, the first truly synthetic fibre, was invented by Wallace h. Carothers in 1938.It is based

on syntheticallybuilt long chain polyamide polymer that previously did not occur naturally.

A wide range of synthetic fibre polymers and poly acrylics has since been developed. Many

of the synthetic polymers may be converted into yarns in continuous filament form. The

filaments may also be cut or broken into staple fibre form, to be later spun on systems

originally developed for natural fibres such as wool or cotton.

2.3 CLASSIFICATION OF YARNS ON THE BASIS OF WEIGHT:

Different yarns are said to have different weights, or thicknesses, and different weights of

yarns are used for different types of projects.

2.3.1 The Standard Yarn Weight System

Yarn weight refers to the thickness of the yarn. It's a range, from super fine to super

bulky. There are six different categories of yarn weights, and according to the Craft Yarn

Council of America, specific weights of yarn should produce a somewhat predictable number

of stitches when using a particular sized needle.

The higher the number, the heavier the yarn and the fewer stitches per inch will be get. If you

know that every bulky yarn is going to give you around the same number of stitches (in this

case, 12 to 15 stitches in four inches on size 9 to 11 needles) and you have a pattern that uses

bulky yarn and size 10 needles, you can buy any kind of bulky yarn and get a similar result.

YARN WEIGHTS:

YARN WEIGHT SUPER

FINE

FINE LIGHT MEDIUM BULKY SUPER

BULKYCATEGORY Baby,

Fingering,

Sock

Baby,

Sport

DK,

Light,

Worsted

Afghan,

Aran,

Worsted

Chunky,

Craft,

Rug

Bulky

roving


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STITCHES/4INCHES 27-32 23-26 21-24 16-20 12-14 6-11

3.0 PROPERTIES OF YARNS

A yarn's usefulness for a knitting project is judged by several factors, such as its loft (its

ability to trap air), its resilience (elasticity under tension), its washability and colorfastness,

its hand (its feel, particularly softness vs. scratchiness), its durability against abrasion, its

resistance to pilling, its hairiness (fuzziness), its tendency to twist or untwist, its overall

weight and drape, its blocking and felting qualities, its comfort (breathability, moisture

absorption, wicking properties) and of course its look, which includes its color, sheen,

smoothness and ornamental features. Other factors include allergenicity; speed of drying;

resistance to chemicals, moths, and mildew; melting point and flammability; retention of

static electricity; and the propensity to become stained and to accept dyes. Different factors

may be more significant than others for different knitting projects, so there is no one "best"

yarn. The resilience and propensity to (un)twist are general properties that affect the ease of

hand-knitting. More resilient yarns are more forgiving of irregularities in tension; highly

twisted yarns are sometimes difficult to knit, whereas untwisting yarns can lead to split

stitches, in which not all of the yarn is knitted into a stitch. A key factor in knitting is stitch

definition, corresponding to how well complicated stitch patterns can be seen when made

from a given yarn. Smooth, highly spun yarns are best for showing off stitch patterns; at the

other extreme, very fuzzy yarns or eyelash yarns have poor stitch definition, and any

complicated stitch pattern would be invisible.

4.0 YARNS FOR HANDKNITTING:

Knitting may be done by hand or by machine. There exist

numerous styles and methods of hand knitting.

Yarn for hand-knitting is usually sold as balls or skeins

(hanks), although it may also be wound on spools or cones.

Skeins and balls are generally sold with a yarn-band, a label

that describes the yarn's weight, length, dye lot, fibre

content, washing instructions, suggested needle size,

Fig. 5.A hank of wool yarn (centre) is

uncoiled into its basic loop. A tie is visible

at the left; after untying, the hank may be

wound into a ball or balls suitable for

knitting.


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likely gauge, etc. It is common practice to save the yarn band for future reference, especially

if additional skeins must be purchased. Knitters generally ensure that the yarn for a project

comes from a single dye lot. The dye lot specifies a group of skeins that were dyed together

and thus have precisely the same colour; skeins from different dye-lots, even if very similar

in colour, are usually slightly different and may produce a visible stripe when knitted

together. If a knitter buys insufficient yarn of a single dye lot to complete a project, additional

skeins of the same dye lot can sometimes be obtained from other yarn stores or online.

Otherwise, knitters can alternate skeins every few rows to help the dye lots blend together

easier.

The thickness or weight of the yarn is a significant factor in determining the gauge, i.e., how

many stitches and rows are required to cover a given area for a given stitch pattern. Thicker

yarns generally require thicker knitting needles, whereas thinner yarns may be knit with thick

or thin needles. Hence, thicker yarns generally require fewer stitches, and therefore less time,

to knit up a given garment. Patterns and motifs are coarser with thicker yarns; thicker yarns

produce bold visual effects, whereas thinner yarns are best for refined patterns. Yarns are

grouped by thickness into six categories: superfine, fine, light, medium, bulky and super

bulky; quantitatively, thickness is measured by the number of wraps per inch (WPI). The

related weight per unit length is usually measured in tex or denier.

Before knitting, the knitter will typically transform a hank into a ball

where the yarn emerges from the centre of the ball; this making the

knitting easier by preventing the yarn from becoming easily tangled.

This transformation may be done by hand, or with a device known as

a ball winder. When knitting, some knitters enclose their balls in jars

to keep them clean and untangled with other yarns; the free yarn

passes through a small hole in the jar-lid.

5.0 YARNS FOR MACHINE KNITTING:

Yarns for machine knitting is usually sold as spools or cones by weight.

The different range of yarns for machine knitting available are:

Acrylic Knitting Yarn

Acknowledged for

Fig. 6.Transformation of a

hank of lavender silk yarn

(top) into a ball in which

the knitting yarn emerges

from the centre (bottom).

Fig. 7.acrylic knitting

yarn


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Softness

Skin- friendliness

Auto coned and spliced features

Knot less twisted on TFOs.

Ideal for Knitting and weaving

Sweaters

Scarves

Gloves

Socks

Shoes

Carpets

Fanons

Cotton Carded Knitting Yarn

Preferred For

100% cotton

Anti-abrasion properties

Chemical resistance

High strength

Excellent durability

Suitable For

Knitting and weaving in single ply and multi-fold

Cotton Knitting Yarn

Known For

100% natural cotton

Shrink resistance

Chemical resistance

Abrasion resistance

High durability

Other type of yarns available are:

Polyester Knitting Yarn

Twisted Knitting Yarn


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6.0 DYEING OF YARNS:

The dyeing of yarn is a complex art. Yarns need not be dyed. They may be dyed with one

colour, or a great variety of colours. Dyeing may be done industrially, by hand or even hand-

painted onto the yarn. A great variety of synthetic dyes havebeen developed since the synthesis of indigo dye in the mid-

19th century; however, natural dyes are often favoured, although they are generally less

brilliant. The colour-scheme of a yarn is sometimes called its colour way. Variegated yarns

can produce interesting visual effects, such as diagonal stripes; conversely, a variegated yarn

may frustrate an otherwise good knitting pattern by producing distasteful colour

combinations.

7.0 TEXTURING OF YARNS:

The introduction of synthetic fibres, which can be heat set in a

permanent configuration, has led to the development of texturing

process that directly convert these filaments into bulked yarns,

thus bypassing the staple fibre spinning process. During

texturing, the filaments are disturbed from their parallel formation

and are permanently set in configurations such as crimps or coils

that help to entrap pockets of air and confer properties such as

bulkiness, soft handle, porosity, drape, cover, opacity and

elasticity to the resultant yarn. Examples of yarn of this type

include false twist nylon and Crimplene, the latter being a

registered trade name for a technique whereby the properties of the textured polyester yarn

are modified during a second heat setting operation so that the stitch clarity, handle and

stability of the fabric are improved.

The development of synthetic fibres and of their texturing processes has proved particularly

beneficial to the knitting industry and has resulted in a close association between the two

industries. The most recent development is the widespread use of Lycra to support the elastic

properties of knitted garments.

8.0 FANCY YARNS:

Fig. 8.hand dyed acrylic in differentshades

Fig. 9.textured fancy yarns


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These fancy yarns are available in different coloured fibres that are blended together and then

are spun to create a single stand of yarn. These yarns can be dyed in different colours and are

available as per the choice of the clients.

9.0 DEFECTS DUE TO YARNS:Fig. 10. Pompon yarns-type of fancyyarns


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10.0. LATEST GLOBAL BRANDS OF YARNS FOR KNITTING:

Bernat

Lion brand

Dbny

Red heart

Wolford

11.0 RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT:

Walter Palmers and Reinhold Wolf, founded Wolford in Bregenz, a decade or so after

nylon stockings had made their first appearance. Frequently at the forefront of hosiery

developments, Wolford has always blended technological developments with innovation

and an extensive quality control system. In the beginning Wolford simply adapted its

knitting machines to produce a higher quality standard, which often proved difficult to

replicate or copy.

2009 Research Shows: Younger Consumers Spur Increase in Yarn

Projects

The Craft Yarn Council of America

The latest numbers from Craft Yarn Council of America's (CYCA) 2005 Consumer

Tracking Study show that knitting and crochet project numbers were up 13% last year,

and the biggest increases in activity were in the under-35, 55-64 and 65 and older age

groups.

Spurred by the dramatic increase in activity in 2005, CYCA decided to break its

traditional bi-annual study schedule to get a more current look on activity and

preferences. "What we found was a rapidly growing younger group of consumers, and

dramatic increases in the purchase of fashion yarns," says John Laurie, chairman of

CYCA. "Coupled with the projected increase in number of projects, this all indicates a

continuation of the growth with new, younger consumers who will be with us for many

years to come."


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CYCA commissioned Research Incorporated of Atlanta, GA, to conduct its seventh study

to reveal current and projected consumer activity. Interviews were completed in October

and November of 2005, and the survey questions closely paralleled those asked in 1994,

1996, 1998, 2000, 2002, and 2004. In-depth telephone interviews were conducted with

400 active knitters who purchased yarn AND knitted or crocheted a project during the

past year. Random calls, supplemented with a list of consumers interested in needlecraft

from Experian's nationwide Behaviour Bank database ensured that data collected in this

research is projectable nationally.

"Our goal was again to describe yarn usage and shopping patterns, identify the most

popular projects and expenditures, track changes in basic and fashion yarn usage, and

provide information on future plans," says Mary Colucci, CYCA's Executive Director.

"Most important, the results always show us the important opportunities for both retailers

and suppliers."

Reflecting hot trends in fashion and home decor, scarves and afghans were among the

most popular projects. This latest survey showed increases in the number of projects in

every project category, an average of 17.3 projects, versus 2004's 15.3, with afghans,

blankets and throws remaining the favourite project among all knitters (55% made at least

one). Baby blankets and scarves were made by 50% of respondents. This last figure

marks a 14 percentage point increase in the number of scarves made in 2005.

This trend fueled a huge increase in sales of fashion yarns (defined as yarn with

interesting textures, such as fur looks, metallics, chenilles and boucles), as 42% purchased

fashion yarns in 2005, compared to 27% in 2004; a 56% increase. These increases were

across all age groups, although knitters tended to purchase more fashion yarns than

crocheters. Most respondents spent between $2 and $7 per skein, mirroring the 2004

results. However, while only 11% or respondents purchased yarns between $7 - $9.99 in

2004, this number increased to 14% in 2005. Knitters and crocheters spent the most

money on afghans and throws in 2005 ($36.07 average), followed by sweaters and vests($34.77), ponchos ($26.61), shawls ($22.28), baby blankets ($20.42) and scarves

($16.85).

Respondents got their project ideas from many sources, but the top choice with 39% was

small format pattern books, an increase of 63%. This was followed by magazines, with

35% (a 40% increase), and friends with 24%. Another popular place for ideas and


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networking was the Internet, where 31% went to get ideas, find patterns, purchase yarn

and supplies, and network with other knitters and crocheters. In particular, they were

more than twice as likely to use the Internet to find patterns and purchase yarn and

supplies in 2010 than in 2009.

Indicative of the continuing excitement, 80% of crocheters and knitters interviewed were

planning to make as many or more projects. This response was unanimous across all age

groups.

"The research shows women are spending more money on knit and crochet projects, and

doing more of them, but the challenge is to keep our customers returning for more to

maintain this level of participation and enthusiasm," comments John Laurie. "There are

three significant opportunities for our retailers: offering classes (since only 17% of

respondents are very satisfied in that area), having knowledgeable employees (only 27%

are very satisfied), and stocking up-to-date patterns (54% are very satisfied)."

The changing sophistication of the craft yarn consumer is reflected in the types of classes

they'd like to see. While 23% are looking for basic knitting and crochet classes, 28% want

a general, less-structured clinic, and 29% were interested in advanced techniques.

12.0. CONCLUSION:

The period from mid-1960s to 1973 is often regarded as knitters as a golden age

because fashionable demand for textiles composed of synthetic fibres reached a peak

during that period.

"Armed with the above research information, the industry can move forward with even

more innovative programs in the future," says Mary Colucci. "We've already got a craft

that offers stress relief, creativity, beautiful materials and a social atmosphere. The

community nurture through CYCA's web sites and message boards, and will continue to

introduce programs such as 'Progressions' to stimulate excitement at retail. We all know

that working together is the key to taking this industry to even higher levels of success."

13.0. REFERENCES:

Spencer,J.D.,Knitting Technology,2001,Sept.,110-12.

Ajgaonkar,D.B.,Knitting technology,2006.


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Knitting Views,Aug,2009

http://knitting.about.com/od/yarn/Types_of_Knitting_Yarn.htm

http://www.woolneedlework.com/Buy_Knitting_Yarn.htm

http://www.dailyknitter.com/article22.html

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Yarns for Knitting