Your National Forests- Winter/Spring 2011

SWAMP STOMPING ON THE FLORIDA TRAIL

OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF THE NATIONAL FOREST FOUNDATION

THE BEST AND MOST ONALASKA’S TONGASS

NATIONAL FOREST

CELEBRATING THEYEAR OF

FORESTS

Treasured Landscapes | Unforgettable Experiences

WINTER – SPRING 2011 www.nationalforests.org

For more than a hundred years, hunters have led the way in conserving America’s

wild places and public lands. Today a new generation of conservationists continues

that legacy. With access, awareness and education as its focus, Remington Outdoor

Foundation has partnered with the National Forest Foundation

to help conserve our valuable natural resources.

Powered by Remington Outdoor Foundation.

The Remington Outdoor Foundation and the National Forest Foundation.Partners in conservation with a common goal.

www.nationalforests.org

Join the thousands of individuals who play a part in helping to care for your National Forests everyday.

If you’re one of the millions who love to camp, hike, ski, hunt,fish, or paddle, we invite you to stay informed and get involved.

These forests belong to each of us. With use comes a responsibilityto care for your National Forests. How will you exercise that

responsibility? As a Friend of the Forest®, we’ll show you how.Become a Friend of the Forest® at www.nationalforests.org.

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B E AF R I E N D

T O Y O U RF O R E S T S

2 YOUR NATIONAL FORESTS n WINTER – SPRING 2011 n www.nationalforests.org

INSIDE THIS EDITIONPhoto by Sandra Friend

INTRODUCTIONS

4 Welcome The gifts of trees

DEPARTMENTS

5 Volunteer Perspective Mentoring Seattle’s youth

6 Forest News Updates from our National Forests

8 Tree Spotlight Yellow cedar

14 Field Reports National Forest Foundation partners in action

20 Conservation Issues Year of forests

24 Conservation Leaders William “Bud” Moore

26 Ski Conservation Fund Stewardshipfundsbenefit forests

28 Corporate Partners Corner

32 Forest Perspectives Lost areas of winter fun

YOUR NATIONAL FORESTSOfficial Magazine of the National Forest Foundation

Editor-in-Chief Jennifer Schoonen

Consulting Editor John Frandsen

Contributors Nathanael P. Davis, John Frandsen, Sandra Friend, Colleen O’Neill, Greg M. Peters, Darcy Poletti-Harp, William J. Possiel, Kassia Randzio, Jennifer Schoonen

Graphic Artist Jennifer Frandsen, Old Town Creative Communications, LLC

17Unforgettable Experiences

The Florida Trail

www.nationalforests.org n WINTER – SPRING 2011 n YOUR NATIONAL FORESTS 3

INSIDE THIS EDITION

Photos by Colleen O

’Neill; iStockPhoto.com

/ kalimf, kreulen

Business Development Jennifer Schoonen

406-542-2805, x. 3354

NATIONAL FOREST FOUNDATION Building 27, Suite 3, Fort Missoula Road Missoula, Montana 59804 406-542-2805

We welcome your letters and feedback, however, we cannot be held responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or materials.

© 2010 National Forest Foundation and Old Town Creative Communications, LLC. No unauthorized reproduction of this material is allowed.

Your National Forests magazine is printed on recycled paper with 30% post-consumer content. This magazine’s use of

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ABOUT THE COVER PHOTO© 2010 Joel Bennett / AlaskaStock.comSummer hiker on Eagle Peak, Admiralty Island, Tongass National Forest, Southeast Alaska

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29

17

Kids & Nature Winter Wildlife

Voices from the Forest A Photographer’s Tribute to Trees

Featured Forest Tongass National Forest,Alaska


National Forest FoundationBuilding 27, Suite 3, Fort Missoula RoadMissoula, Montana 59804406-542-2805 William J. Possiel, PresidentMary Mitsos, Vice PresidentJennifer Schoonen, Vice President Board of Directors

Executive Committee Chairman, John Hendricks Founder and Chairman, Discovery Communications Inc. (MD) Vice Chairman, Craig R. Barrett CEO/Chairman of the Board, Intel Corporation (AZ), Retired Vice Chairman, David Bell

Creative Realities (NY) Treasurer, Bradley K. Johnson CAO, CFO, Recreational Equipment Inc.,

Retired (WA) Secretary, Timothy Proctor Schieffelin

Source Capital Group (CT) Committee Member, Peter Foreman

Sirius LP (IL) Committee Member, Thomas Tidwell Ex-Officio, Chief, USDA Forest Service (DC)

Tiki Barber, Chairman, Tiki Ventures LLC (NY); Coleman Burke, President, Waterfront Properties (NY); Robert Cole, Partner, Collins Cockrel & Cole, P.C. (CO); Bart Eberwein, Vice President, Hoffman Construction Co. (OR); Robert Feitler, Chairman of the Executive Committee, Weyco Group Inc. (IL); Lee Fromson, Vice President of Gear and Apparel, Recreational Equipment Inc. (WA); Roje Gootee, Co-owner & Manager, Rush Creek Ranch (OR); Robert Katz, CEO, Vail Resorts (CO); Jamal Mashburn (FL); Jeff Paro, CEO, InterMedia Outdoors (NY); Susan Schnabel, Managing Director, Credit-Suisse (CA); Chad Weiss, Managing Director, JOG Capital Inc. (WY); James C. Yardley, President, El Paso Pipeline Group (TX)

The official magazine of the National Forest

Foundation, Your National Forests magazine,

is published twice yearly by Old Town Creative

Communications LLC and the National Forest

Foundation. Copyright © 2010 Your National Forests

Magazine, Old Town Creative Communications LLC

and National Forest Foundation. All rights reserved.

Reproduction in whole or in part without written

permission is prohibited.

Printed in U.S.A. on 100% recycled paper containing 30% post-consumer content and using Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certified paper and processes that adhere to the highest social and environmental standards.

Please recycle or pass on to a friend.

I am writing these words on a gorgeous December day, with abundant snow covering our lodgepole and ponderosa pines in Montana. The quiet, clean splendor of fresh snow in the forest boosts the Christmas spirit and leads me to reflect on the gifts that I have received from trees. I have vivid memories of trees and my connection to them throughout my life … the sturdy branches and footholds of those that I have climbed … the steady presence of trees I planted in our backyard that grew up as I did. And of course there are the holiday trees each year, adorned with ornaments and lights—but beneath the sparkle still the wonderful essence of nature.

Many birds, a variety of insects, and animals like squirrels and raccoons spend much of their lives in trees. Some animals are born in trees, live in trees, raise their young in trees and seldom come down to the ground. Trees give them shelter from the weather and safe haven from predators. Trees provide fruits, nuts, leaves, bark, and roots. Many of our favorite dishes are seasoned with spices from trees, including nutmeg, cloves, allspice, camphor, cinnamon, and cardamom. And, many of our modern medicines come from tree compounds.

Most of us live in wooden houses filled

with furniture and other household items also crafted from wood. Ground-up wood is used to make paper for magazines, newspapers, wrappers, and cereal boxes. Sap that flows from trees gives us the gift of maple syrup, chewing gum, crayons, paint, and soap.

The quality of our environment—from the air we breathe to our drinking water to soils—depends on the roles trees play. Trees help create rain as they expel moisture into the atmosphere; their roots draw it from the soil and their leaves return it to the air. Trees clean the air we breathe by taking in carbon dioxide through their leaves and then giving off oxygen we need to breathe. If trees didn’t breathe, neither could we. Roots help hold soil in place to prevent erosion which not only saves soil, but also keeps our waterways cleaner.

With all of these life-sustaining gifts that trees have given me, they have also lifted my spirits as I have spent time among them. Like close friends to me, I am comforted by their presence. They instill a sense of wonder and hope that Annie Dillard captured best in her book, “A Pilgrim at Tinker Creek,” excerpted here:

Then one day I was walking along Tinker Creek thinking of nothing at all and I saw the tree with the lights in it. I saw the backyard cedar where the mourning doves roost charged and transfigured, each cell buzzing with flame. I stood on the grass with the lights in it, grass that was wholly fire, utterly focused and utterly dreamed. It was less like seeing than like being for the first time seen, knocked breathless by a powerful glance. The lights of the fire abated, but I’m still spending the power. Gradually the lights went out in the cedar, the colors died, the cells unflamed and disappeared. I was still ringing. I had my whole life been a bell, and never knew it until at that moment I was lifted and struck. I have since only rarely seen the tree with the lights in it. The vision comes and goes, mostly goes, but I live for it, for the moment when the mountains open and a new light roars in spate through the crack, and the mountains slam.

Wishing you many gifts that only trees can provide and experiences in their presence that will take your breath away.

THE GIFTS OFTREES

By Bill Possiel, NFF President

WELCOME


Photos courtesy of Nathanael D

avis

To a summer sojourner in western Washington, the North Cascade Mountains are hard to miss. The emerald forests and craggy snow-capped peaks are a well-dressed wall of stone finely lit by an early morning sunrise. Why then do thousands of motorists, driving each day to work and then home again along Interstate 5, miss the mountain grandeur? The routine sight of these mountains can often render a complacent citizenry, citizens who have become relatively disengaged with the environment surrounding them. They truly miss out on knowing the landscape that gives them vital natural resources and such beauty.

Hundreds of thousands of people living within an hour’s drive of the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest’s (MBS) million-plus acres have a very real opportunity to connect with their environment. The National Forest Foundation, eager to expand its presence throughout the Pacific Northwest, saw great potential in the diverse communities stretched along the I-5 corridor of western Washington. The MBS, which follows that same corridor, is

the proverbial “backyard” for each of these communities and provides a setting for learning that is rarely found elsewhere.

When I first began my AmeriCorps internship with the NFF as the youth and volunteer programs coordinator, I wasn’t a pioneer in volunteerism, but a privileged participant among an established community of engaged organizations. Organizations like Volunteers for Outdoor Washington, Washington Trails Association, and Discover Your Northwest have rich histories invested in preserving the health and natural beauty of the MBS.

Though I wasn’t a pioneer in local volunteerism, I was a pioneer advocating NFF’s volunteer presence in the MBS. What better way to make that presence known than to work with the folks managing the land on behalf of the public. The U.S. Forest Service (USFS) has been working with youth organizations for many years. With USFS partner contacts and the NFF’s enthusiasm to increase capacity for volunteerism in National Forests, a new position was born. I became the first youth and volunteer programs coordinator for the NFF. My job was to create zeal among Washington’s urban youth for environmental stewardship through service-learning events. Generating a feasible event required establishing early contact with interested partner organizations, locating suitable locations for work and learning, developing an agenda, and facilitating the event. Once through the hard work of establishing each event, the fun promptly began in hosting these outings.

A typical event ran like this: youth would arrive early, somewhat sleepy-eyed, but intensely curious. They would be shuttled to their project site, oriented to the project and tool safety, and then hit the work hard

and fast. Being a volunteer in the MBS will surprise most. No matter what age, most will find that being a volunteer is both physically tough and emotionally rewarding. Volunteers are generally very diligent despite unfamiliar surroundings. Keep in mind, most of these volunteers are from homes where concrete and ornamental landscaping is the resident vegetation. Here in the great outdoors, they could only guess at the wild things growing, yet volunteers overcame fears and found the work exciting.

Curiosity is the fuel that drives the second half of each event: a learning experience. Youth are enveloped with the interesting names for flowers, birds, and their physical surroundings. It’s the smile on their faces and the ever-present questions on their lips that tell you they are gaining a moment of learning that will never be lost. True understanding, however, comes when volunteers take away information they can enthusiastically share with others. The pride of having a piece of knowledge that is new and unique gives a sense of ownership to the source of that information. In this case, that ownership links them to the outdoor world of a National Forest and nurtures a stronger connection to their own “backyard.”

I am proud to have served as a leader of volunteers for the NFF. The National Forest Foundation is a driving force for change—changing hearts and changing minds while engaging citizens in understanding their public lands. Volunteerism is a means by which to deliver such change. The inspiration behind volunteerism is developing a healthy collaboration between the environment and the community. And a community that realizes this collaboration, that is, knows the mountains in the distance, will find themselves forever blessed.

GETTING TO KNOW THE MOUNTAINSBy Nathanael P. Davis

Seattle-area youth taking part in a special program for kids with Asperger’s Syndrome gather at the Gold Creek Pond Trailhead. The NFF’s Nathanael Davis led them in work to remove brush alongside one of the few ADA-approved hiking trails in the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

NFF youth program coordinator, Nathanael Davis, removes vegetation alongside the Mill Creek Pond Trail. His volunteers for the day included economically underprivileged families from inner-city Everett, Wash. Though just a 35- minute drive from home, for most parents and their kids (many under 10 years old) it was their first visit to the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest.

VOLUNTEER PERSPECTIVE


Photos courtesy of Forest Products Laboratory / USD

A Forest Service; USD

A Forest Service

In 1910, the need for longer lasting railroad ties paved the way for a century of innovation at the U.S. Forest Service’s Forest Products Laboratory. In the 100 years since the lab’s establishment in Madison, Wis., this unique research arm of the Forest Service has helped develop waterproof plywood, stronger bowling pins, and better wood for aircraft. Today, the lab is making strides in developing ethanol from biomass and creating environmentally friendly, soy-based adhesives for wood products.

In conjunction with the lab’s recent anniversary, the new Centennial Research Facility opened in the summer of 2010. From a simulated weather chamber to a heavy-duty hydraulic ram, the research tools housed by the facility support the development of better, safer and more environmentally sustainable wood products. The 87,000-square-foot laboratory near the University of Wisconsin-Madison campus is home to three work units:

a lab that conducts physical and mechanical testing on a wide range of building materials and systems;

a unit that works to extend available timber supplies through improved building design and advances in low-toxicity wood preservatives; and,

a section that studies the performance of composites from bio-based materials.

The new lab is hosting an expanded business partnership program to assist private businesses in creating and testing new wood-based technologies as well as innovative solutions to sustainable energy and natural resource conservation needs.

“That will make it easier for (private companies) to move ahead and take some of the risk out of it,” said Ted Wegner, assistant director of the Forest Products Lab. “The whole name of the game is trying to create new markets and jobs for people. How do you make that transition less clumsy?”

To learn more about the Forest Products Lab, visit: www.fpl.fs.fed.us.

This spring marks the 100th anniversary of the legislation that made our modern National Forest System look like it does today, with 40 National Forests east of the Mississippi River. In March, the Weeks Act, a relatively unknown but crucially important piece of legislation, turns 100. Introduced by U.S. Rep. James W. Weeks of Massachusetts, the Weeks Act, as it came to be known, authorized the federal government to purchase private land for inclusion in the Forest Reserve System. The bill was signed by President Howard Taft on March 1, 1911.

Previous to the Weeks Act, presidents could set aside forest reserves in the West because most of the land was owned by the government. However, in the East, most of the land was privately owned and had been logged and burned intensively by the early 1900s. These cut-over and eroded “lands nobody wanted” were in desperate need of reforestation because of the critical role they played in the provision of water for eastern communities. The act was written to allow the government to purchase these lands to protect the watersheds and navigable streams that originated on the forests.

Forest Service historians have called the Weeks Act “one of the most successful land conservation efforts in the United States.” The act provided for the creation of 40 National Forests containing millions of acres of forest lands that make up the backbone of one of the largest and most remarkable forest recovery stories in the world.

To learn more about the Weeks Act and upcoming celebrations visit:

www.fs.fed.us/land/staff/weeks-act.html.

EASTERN FORESTS CELEBRATE BIG ANNIVERSARY

NEW CENTURY OF FOREST PRODUCTS INNOVATION BEGINS

ABOVE: Early testing at the laboratoryRIGHT: Various techniques are tested

and used to create new and better wood products.

Centennial Research Facility at Forest Products Laboratory

FOREST NEWS


FOREST NEWS

Photos courtesy of USD

A Forest Service

Late last summer, Secretary of Agriculture Tom Vilsack announced the selection of 10 Collaborative Forest Landscape Restoration projects. Spread across nine states, the projects promote healthier, safer and more productive public lands by working with community partners to address wildfire risks, enhance fish and wildlife habitats, and maintain and improve water quality.

“Working collaboratively with partners at the state, local and private level is an important part of the all-lands approach to improving the health of our nation’s forests,” said Vilsack. “These projects will address forest restoration across landscapes, irrespective of ownership boundaries and help create not only healthy forests and waterways but create green jobs and economic opportunity in rural communities.”

The projects include work in Arizona, Colorado, Idaho, Florida, Montana, New Mexico and Oregon, and range from longleaf pine restoration to invasive weed treatment. For more information on the specifics of these projects please visit:

www.fs.fed.us/restoration/CFLR/index/shtml.

COLLABORATIVERESTORATIONFUNDED IN NINE STATES

The American Recovery and Reinvestment Act (ARRA) may have expired at the end of 2010, but its legacy will benefit workers, National Forests, and visitors for years to come. Just because the program itself is over doesn’t mean the U.S. Forest Service will reduce the emphasis on jobs creation that began when the ARRA was implemented in 2009 and 2010. Unobligated funds from 2010 will be kept by the agency, and managers will focus spending these dollars on projects that create the most jobs for the dollars spent. According to Forest Service Chief Tom Tidwell, the agency will emphasize several job-creating programs, including stewardship contracting to aid private industry and choosing mechanical treatment in place of prescribed burning.

In 2010, the U.S. Forest Service received $1.15 billion from the ARRA. Of this, almost half, $650 million went into “Capital Improvement and Maintenance,” or repairing, replacing, or performing other maintenance on roads, bridges, trails, facilities and abandoned mines across the National Forests. About $250 million was invested in “Wildland Fire Management” and was spent reducing fuel loads and protecting forest

health on federal lands. The final $250 million was allocated to wildland fire management on state and private lands with up to $50 million of these funds to be used for wood-to-energy grants to increase biomass utilization from federal, state, and private forest lands.

As of November 2010, the agency reported that among the 705 Forest Service projects funded by ARRA across the nation:

More than 9,100 miles of trails have been improved.

More than 53,000 acres of water or soil resources have been improved.

More than 14,850 miles of forest roads have been maintained.

More than 502,300 acres have been treated to reduce risk of catastrophic wildfires.

More than 129,800 acres of priority areas containing invasive species or native pests have been treated.

Almost all of the jobs were created in the private sector through contracting.

For more information and detailed project descriptions, please visit:

www.fs.fed.us and click on the “Jobs” tab at the bottom of the page.

STIMULUS INVESTMENTSIMPROVE PUBLIC LANDS

TOP LEFT: Big Branch Trail Bridge on the Appalachian-Long Trail, Vt.; TOP RIGHT: Solar wells installed at several campgrounds in the Huron-Manistee National Forests, Mich.; BOTTOM: Improved fish passage on the Green Mountain National Forest, Vt.

Quicksilver sawyers are kept busy with a 3,000-acre thinning project in the Deschutes National Forest, Ore.

Before After


Photos by Walter Siegm

und / Creative C

omm

ons; Connecticut Agricultural Experim

ent Station / Bugwood.org; U

SDA Forest Service

From Alaska’s Chugach National Forest stretching all the way down the Pacific coast to California’s Klamath National Forest, one tree species has resisted pests for thousands of years, defied classification for two centuries, and evaded commercial timber harvest. Recent times have not been so kind—and today it is slowly succumbing to a changing climate.

Nootka cypress, yellow cedar, Alaska cedar—call it what you will—the tall, drooping, slow-growing trees befuddle scientists’ Latin nomenclature. Over the past two centuries, the tree has moved from the genus Cypressus to Chamaecypares to Callitropsis, back to Cypressus, and most recently to a new genus in 2002, Xanthocyprais. The trees’ small, scale-like leaves overlap along thin branches, similar to a cypress, but the trunk’s hair-like bark resembles a cedar, making it difficult to pin down.

By any name, the tree is a survivor. Across much of its range, the growing season is short, but yellow cedar doesn’t rush time. It’s not uncommon to find trees with 80 annual growth rings per inch and some trees have 360 rings per inch—that’s 360 years to grow 2 inches in diameter. Trees just 2-feet wide are often more than 700 years old. The oldest specimens live well over 1,000 years, with some suspected to be over 3,500 years old.

Growing along Alaska’s coastlines and up mountainsides, where trees are subject

to wind, rain, snow, and cold, the yellow cedar is well adapted to its environs. The cedar’s narrow crown and droopy, flexible branches help trees to deflect snow and prevent the branches from breaking under the weight of heavy precipitation. Just

below the ground surface, its roots reach out as much as 100 feet, providing stability to survive on avalanche tracks. Its shaggy bark helps to make it fire hardy and its oily, aromatic wood helps it to fend off pests.

These adaptations to severe conditions also make the trees difficult to access, historically protecting them from commercial logging. Over the past century, the timber

industry first sought out forest stands with easy access and high volume, overlooking the steep high grounds. However, with new technology, the higher elevation homes to yellow cedar are increasingly harvested.

In modern times, the trees have become a valuable commodity. Unlike faster growing trees, the close-knit growth rings make the wood easy to work and carve, create a unified appearance, and give the wood a durability that surpasses many other wood types. Today, the majority of yellow cedar timbers—and the highest quality logs—are exported to Japan, where it is valued for use in temples and other construction. Domestically, its naturally weather-resistant and pest-resistant qualities make it ideal for outdoor furniture, window frames, stadium seats, and decking. Even when subjected to

LEGENDARY TREE FACES ITS TOUGHEST

CHALLENGE

With funding from the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act, Wes Tyler of Icy Straits Lumber and Milling in Hoonah and his crew expertly crafted the Eight Fathom cabin using four-by-six squared timbers from locally-cut yellow cedar and spruce. The 16-by-20 foot shelter is complete with a stove, table, benches, bunks, and a full loft, providing a cozy place to relax after a long day of hunting, fishing, or exploring along the road network that is adjacent to the cabin on Alaska’s Tongass National Forest.

Yellow cedar foliage

BUILDING THE EIGHT FATHOM CABIN

By Kassia Randzio

TREE SPOTLIGHT


TREE SPOTLIGHT

Photo by Stanislav Pobytov / iStockPhoto.com

severe conditions and submerged in water, the yellow cedar timbers used on boats will outlast most other woods. This is nothing new, as American Indians of the Northwest carved canoes and totem poles from yellow cedar, Russian colonists used it to construct steamships, and the wood is still used today for canoes, paddles, skiffs, fishing boats, barges, and yachts.

Despite its ability to endure weather, pests, and time, yellow cedar populations have been declining over the last 100 years. Vast stands have faded, thinned, and eventually died. With the onset of climate change, the trees’ adaptations to cold areas with heavy snowpack, and their extensive near-surface root system—characteristics that have sustained it through the ages—are now making the trees vulnerable.

Typically, heavy snowpack helps to insulate the root system and moderate changes in temperature. However, with more precipitation falling as rain and less snowpack to insulate the ground, the root systems are vulnerable to temperature fluctuations. Recent trends show early spring thaws followed by severe cold snaps.

If the roots were covered with more snow or grew further below the surface, they would be protected. Instead, these changing weather patterns leave the uninsulated roots exposed to freeze and the trees cannot survive.

A testament to the strength of these trees, yellow cedar continue standing 100 years or more after they’ve died. Seeking a market for even the dead wood, researchers with the U.S. Forest Service are experimenting with using woodchips from the naturally pest-resistant tree to mulch trails and prevent the spread of sudden oak death, a disease killing trees in California. At the Center for Disease Control, researchers have developed a natural mosquito, tick, and flea repellant using the oils from dead yellow cedar.

The qualities that have helped yellow cedar trees to live for thousands of years—a tight grain, insect-resistant oils, and an expansive shallow root system—make it both valuable and vulnerable. The trees being shipped to market have survived the test of time, but they may not survive the trials of climate change.

A NOOTKA* LEGEND: CREATION OF THE YELLOW CEDAR

PRoviDe a MeaNiNgFul TRiBuTe,that leaves a lasting legacy.

May my life be like a great hospitable tree, and may weary

wanderers find in me a rest.~ John Henry Jowett

Deborah Snyder: 406-542-2805 ext. 3355 • [email protected] • www.nationalforests.org

Many of our lives are enriched by time spent savoring our National Forests.

Through memorial or honoraria gifts, the National Forest Foundation offers a wonderful way to commemorate those experiences in memory of a loved one or in honor of a special occasion.

The National Forest Foundation puts your tribute gifts to work caring for the waters, wildlife habitats and wild places treasured by your loved ones—perpetuating a legacy to be enjoyed long into the future.

The NFF will notify the designated person(s) you specify regarding your gift on behalf of their loved one or special occasion.

To learn more or to establish a tribute gift, please contact:

Three young women walked down to the beach to dry salmon. A trickster raven, perched nearby, was watching as the women worked together. The raven asked the women, “Are you afraid of being alone?” “No,” they called back in unison. “Are you afraid of bears?” he asked. Again, they each said, “No.” “Wolves?” “No.” The raven continued, going through a list of every animal he could think of. Finally, the raven asked, “Are you afraid of owls?” and all three women said, “Yes, we’re very afraid of owls!”

Satisfied, the raven left the women alone to do their work, but he hid in the forest nearby. The raven began to make the sounds of an owl. Terrified, the women ran away from the beach and up into the mountains, scattering along the mountainside. Tiring from the run, when they stopped to catch their breath, each of the women turned into a Nootka cypress tree.

This is why the Nootka cypress grows on the sides of mountains and the trees have silky, strand-like bark like a woman’s hair.

(*The Nootka are indigenous peoples from Canada’s Pacific Northwest coast.)

UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCES


Photos this story by Sandra Friend unless otherwise noted.

“This trail sucks,” I said, as I struggled over a slippery log with one foot caught behind me, mud oozing over and into my boots beneath water the color of coffee with cream. Deep in the Apalachicola National Forest, only a half hour from Tallahassee, I was on one of the toughest hikes in Florida—Bradwell Bay.

“It’s the mud that sucks,” said Kent Wimmer, just a few feet ahead of me, as he led our group through a maze of swamp forest on his annual Swamp Stomp along the Florida Trail. On cue, from beneath me came a giant sucking sound as I freed one boot, then the next. Thwock! Thwock!

Trail To The TropicsThe southernmost of the National Scenic

Trails in America, the Florida Trail is unlike any other. Stretching north for 1,400 miles from the boundary of Everglades National Park and Big Cypress National Preserve, passing through three National Forests on its way to Pensacola Beach, it follows a patchwork of public lands, purchased easements, and private lands where agreements have been made for passage of hikers.

The National Forests in Florida manages the Florida Trail. It “provides ways to get out in the woods and view natural Florida that are immeasurable to the health and well-being of all its hikers,” said Forest Supervisor Susan Jeber-Matthews. “The Forest Service takes great pride in the role we play in providing this opportunity.”

Florida is much bigger than it looks on a map. The second-largest state east of the Mississippi River, Florida stretches across two time zones, and it takes about 12 hours to drive from Pensacola to Key West. More than half the length of the Appalachian Trail, the Florida Trail has no mountains to showcase—the high points in the western corner of the state barely top 300 feet. But

sWaMp sloGGiNG aND scrUB BUsTiNGoN The FloriDa Trail

By Sandra Friend

Backpackers cross one of the larger cattle ranches north of Okeechobee while following the Florida Trail.



Photo of Big Cypress Sw

amp by R

obert Coveney / Florida Trail Association

what Florida has is botanical diversity, with every few inches of gradient yielding to an entirely new habitat. The Florida Natural Areas Inventory includes 81 different natural communities ranging from dry upland hardwood forests in Florida’s Panhandle—with ravines and bluffs and plant life similar to those found in the Appalachians—to tropical hammocks topped with trees common to the Caribbean islands. While most of the buzz about the Florida Trail surrounds its swamp crossings, the trail itself is mainly dry, traversing upland areas along the spine of the Florida peninsula. Yet it’s these swampy habitats that intrigue visitors the most, with landscapes that look nothing like the rest of America.

WeT aND WilDWading into the Big Cypress Swamp

seems like an odd way to start a thru-hike, but the southern terminus of the Florida Trail lies in the midst of a watery wilderness. “Those who hike the Florida Trail through the Preserve discover that the southern end of the trail is some of the most challenging hiking, but at the same time some of the most secluded and beautiful portions of the trail,” said Bob DeGross, chief of interpretation and public affairs at Big Cypress National Preserve.

That first step into the water is always a shock. Big Cypress and the Everglades are shallow rivers of rainwater moving

slowly but steadily down a slight gradient towards the Gulf of Mexico and Florida Bay through the southernmost tip of the Florida peninsula. During the summer, when daily thunderstorms are a given, the water may rise several feet deep and flow quickly southward. During the winter, shallow sawgrass prairies dry out, with water cached only in the center of cypress domes and the deeper channels that define cypress strands. Wading, however, is a part of your progress through the swamp, no matter the time of year, through crystal-clear water glimmering with tiny fish—gambusia—that eat mosquito larvae. Colorful floating bladderworts also contribute to mosquito control, so Big Cypress is not as buggy as adjacent Everglades National Park.

Immersed in a cypress dome, you’re surrounded by the delicate beauty of colorful bromeliads, orchids, and the lichen-mottled bark of the trees. Jurassic-sized ferns tower overhead in shallower areas. As elevation rises a tiny bit, the landscape opens up to panoramas of prairie, where a glimpse into the grasses yields splashes of purple, yellow, and orange like an impressionist painting. It is not an easy place to hike. When damp, the webs of periphyton (a complex mix of algae, bacteria, and fungi that makes up the primary biomass of the Everglades) underfoot have the consistency of shortening, meaning hiking poles are a necessity to keep yourself upright. There

are deep holes in the oolite bedrock that only probing ahead can uncover. Dry spots for camping are limited. But the reward of experiencing these rare habitats up close and personal makes it worth the hike.

aroUND okeechoBeeI’m being lazy this morning, letting the

rest of my group get an early start while I focus on photography. It’s day six of the Big O Hike, Thanksgiving Day, and I’m settled in a little way from the trailhead at Moore Haven watching the sun rise. For nearly an hour, a symphony of color unfolds, scattering yellows, oranges, and pinks across the sky as first light dapples across tall grasses, moonflowers, and sugar cane fields. As morning seeps overhead, birdsong echoes across the expanse of marshes as the lead hikers come into view.

The longest running organized hike in Florida, the Big O Hike celebrates 20 years in 2011—nine days of day hiking around Lake Okeechobee, an inland sea that’s the second-largest lake entirely within U.S. borders, right after Lake Michigan. In the 1920s, two hurricanes upturned the shallow bowl into surrounding farming communities, killing thousands. The government response was to encircle the lake with a 35-foot-tall dike and flood control gates, cutting off the flow of the largest source of water feeding the Everglades.

Wading in the Big Cypress Swamp isn’t an option, it’s a must.Gulf fritillary on glades lobelia in Big Cypress National Preserve



iN The ocala (BirThplace oF The FloriDa Trail)

Walking through the heart of the Juniper Prairie Wilderness, I come to a dead stop as I hear splashing ahead of me. In the middle of the Big Scrub, the largest contiguous sand pine scrub forest on Earth, I’m in Florida’s desert, clambering ancient dunes made of bright white sand topped with plants adapted to a harsh environment.

I top the hill and look down. Edged with bushy bluestem, the pond reflects the sky as two otters play rodeo with each other in this shallow pool. I beckon my hiking companions closer, and we spend a good half hour watching the otters as they capture and gobble fish.

While designated a National Scenic Trail in 1983, the Florida Trail’s roots run deeper. In the early 1960s, Miami resident Jim Kern—a Florida Audubon Society member—came back from a camping trip on the Appalachian Trail with the desire to create a place where Florida backpackers could take to the woods. Bringing together environmental luminaries of the time, including Marjory Stoneman Douglas and Ross Allen, he founded the Florida Trail Association. Kern led an expedition north through the wilds of the Big Cypress Swamp to Lake Okeechobee, accompanied by a reporter from the Miami Herald. The published tale of the adventure brought more eager hikers out of the woods, and

Held during Thanksgiving week, the Big O Hike attracts hikers from all over North America for both the physical challenge of one of the longest loop hikes around a lake—109 miles—and the camaraderie found while hiking, relaxing, and exploring the communities around the lake. With expansive views into sugar cane fields and cattle ranches from atop the dike, hikers are immersed in rural South Florida while enjoying the expansive views.

Up The kissiMMeeCamped beneath the oaks of Blueberry

Hill, I awake at the break of dawn to muffled moos. A peek through the tent zip reveals cattle silhouetted beneath cabbage palms lit from behind by the rising sun. Mist gathers in pools, creeping up from the nearby Kissimmee River. I’d tiptoed through the cow patties before dusk to draw water from the river. This morning, the cows are on the other side of the fence. Once we breakfasted and packed, we’d be up and over the next stile into their pasture in the midst of Florida’s largest prairie, crossing ranches established in the 1820s and still in the same families, following the Florida Trail as it traces the flow of the Kissimmee River north.

With its headwaters near Walt Disney World, the Kissimmee River basin has seen a world of hurt over the past century. In 1881, land speculator Hamilton Disston

talked the state of Florida into selling frontier swampland to him for pennies on the dollar on a promise of draining the swamps. It was purportedly the largest land purchase in human history. Drain he did, all the way down to the Everglades, changing the face of Florida forever. Where the peninsula was once a mosaic of wet and dry prairies punctuated by pine forest, it became the realm of cattlemen overseeing ranches on a Texas scale.

The Army Corps of Engineers straightened the sinuous Kissimmee River by turning it into a canal in the 1960s in the name of flood control. Once the wetlands that filtered the water were destroyed, the heavy agricultural nutrient load washed right into Lake Okeechobee, altering its chemistry and spilling over into the Everglades. Since 2000, the Comprehensive Everglades Restoration Project has been slowly undoing these mistakes by restoring the natural flow of the Kissimmee River into Lake Okeechobee and the Everglades.

Along the Kissimmee River, the Florida Trail follows a well-established cattle drover route from pioneer days, passing through ghost towns once serviced by steamboats. Much of the river is still a ditch. But in places like Bluff Hammock, where the natural flow has been restored, the marshes spread out for miles, echoing with the cries of sandhill cranes en masse each winter to feast.

The Florida Trail passes through many park-like oak hammocks on high ground in the Kissimmee River floodplain.

Hikers head east along the Seashore Section of the Florida Trail.



a movement was born. The first segment of the Florida Trail opened in 1966 near Clearwater Lake Recreation Area, and the first section completed was across the entire Ocala National Forest. Spanning nearly 70 miles of unbroken trail, it’s a major attraction for backpackers in Florida.

Still providing on-the-ground volunteer support, the Florida Trail Association (www.floridatrail.org) works hand-in-hand with the National Forests in Florida to build, maintain, and promote the trail. “FTA’s partnership with the National Forests in Florida is central to protecting and preserving one of only 11 National Scenic Trails in the United States,” said Peter Durnell, president of the Florida Trail Association. “Providing the public with a safe experience of Florida’s natural wonders that is challenging, interesting, accessible, and educational is our combined goal.”

Marvels oF The paNhaNDleThe Florida Trail’s center point lies north

of the Ocala National Forest, speaking to just how far a traverse it is across North Florida and the Florida Panhandle. Hikers spend more than 20 miles crossing the Osceola National Forest—known for its red-cockaded woodpecker colonies and biological connectivity to the Okeefenokee Swamp. The big push, with no resupply options for backpackers, is more than 80 miles across the Apalachicola National Forest, the home of the aforementioned

Bradwell Bay and expansive, albeit wet, pitcher plant savannas.

As the Florida Trail heads westward, the terrain gets more rugged, with steephead ravines and tall waterfalls, hilly longleaf pine habitat, and rocky karst outcrops where springs bubble from the earth. The trail weaves its way back and forth between the Gulf coast and the Georgia border. At St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge—the only National Wildlife Refuge in America where overnight camping is permitted (but only for Florida Trail backpackers)—the trail swings out along the edge of vast coastal estuaries. By the time it reaches Pensacola Beach, it spills out along snowy white sands for the final stretch to the northern terminus at Fort Pickens in Gulf Islands National Seashore.

GeM oF The soUTheasTWith nearly 150 trailheads within an

hour of major population centers and vacation destinations, the Florida Trail is primarily the domain of day hikers and overnight backpackers. Only a handful of long-distance hikers make the attempt each

season. Hiking season is reversed in Florida from the rest of the country, so the peak months—with cool weather and fewer insects—are October through April.

“The Florida Trail is the gem in the crown of our recreational trail system,” said Forest Supervisor Susan Jeber-Matthews, and it indeed, is a gem with many unexpected facets.

A sandy trail leads into the Juniper Prairie Wilderness in the Ocala National Forest. Hiking into the sunset

Florida Trail


FIELD REPORTSPhotos courtesy of The Land C

onservancy of New

Jersey & Upper G

ila Watershed Alliance

On Oct. 15, 2010, leaders from a unique public-private coalition gathered in Mount Olive Township, N.J., to celebrate the completion of the first phase of the South Branch Restoration Project. Diverse stakeholders from The Land Conservancy of New Jersey, National Forest Foundation, and El Paso Corporation came together to protect and restore the 135-acre parcel that was once slated for development under the name of “Rezamir Estates.”

“In bringing together the resources and expertise of several dedicated partners, we have realized tremendous restoration results in a short amount of time,” said Bill Possiel, president of the National Forest Foundation. “Restoring the South Branch Preserve demonstrates the power of collaborative conservation.”

As a part of the critical New Jersey Highlands watershed, the streams and wetlands of the area flow directly into the South Branch of the Raritan River, in an area that supplies fresh drinking water for over a million New Jersey residents. With that fact in mind, The Land Conservancy of New Jersey acquired the land in June 2009 after the developer filed for bankruptcy. Development had already begun on 16 planned lots; concrete foundations, dirt roads, and culverts marred the landscape that hundreds of native species call home. In addition to the human damage, unsustainable deer populations had over-browsed the vegetation and non-native

plants had invaded the area. Although many believe that the state

has been developed past the point of no return, The Land Conservancy of New Jersey bought the parcel with the goal of turning the land into a functioning forest once again. With funding help from the National Forest Foundation and El Paso Corporation, The Land Conservancy was able to realize that goal. Debris was cleared, invasive plants removed and natural streams and ponds were restored. Over 1,000 native shrubs and trees were planted on roads that would have one day been paved, and a 105-acre deer exclosure fence was built so that native vegetation could have a chance to recover and thrive.

Many look to the South Branch Restoration Project as a model for future innovative environmental partnerships and projects. “When I think of conservation leadership in this country, I point to this project,” said U.S. Forest Service Chief Tom Tidwell, speaking at the October event.

Today, just months after work began, much of the damage has been reversed. Frogs and other aquatic species are thriving in the restored streams and ponds; saplings are taking root and beginning to grow. Public and private partners from varied backgrounds came together with the common goal of conservation, and as David Epstein, president of The Land Conservancy of New Jersey, said, “We turned a subdivision back into a forest.”

TURNING A NEW JERSEY FORESTBACK TO NATURE

The NFF and partners helped bring New Jersey woods and streams back from the brink of development.

The tire tracks that lead from Brushy Canyon Road into the Gila River leave a path of crushed willows and flattened grass. These tracks are not only unsightly, but they are also illegal. Because Brushy Canyon Road is a key access point to an 8-mile stretch of prime riparian habitat, the Gila National Forest officially closed the road in 2003. But in recent years flood waters have moved the boulders placed as barriers, and drivers have begun to illegally access the road. Often, individuals drive in Brushy Creek itself, drastically speeding up the erosion process and causing more sediment to run into the Gila River.

The damaging effects of illegal vehicle use of the Brushy Canyon Road were clear, but the Gila National Forest lacked sufficient funds to take action. So, the Upper Gila Watershed Alliance (UGWA) approached the National Forest Foundation with a grant proposal to improve the closure infrastructure in the area. With the funding they received from the NFF, UGWA has begun the process of repairing the road blockage. A closure plan has been developed and implementation will soon follow. The original boulders will be arranged in a more permanent, flood-resistant manner and educational information about sensitive riparian areas posted. After the basic closure system is improved, volunteers will work together with restoration professionals to repair erosion damage in the creek. With the power of collaborative work, the Gila River will soon be protected once again, and healing can begin.

PROTECTING A NEW MExICO RIvER


FIELD REPORTS

Photo courtesy of Yellow D

og Watershed Preserve; iStockPhoto.com

/ Roger W

hiteway

To celebrate the 40th anniversary of the 1964 Wilderness Act, the U.S. Forest Service developed a Stewardship Challenge that called for all 35 million acres of wilderness managed by the Forest Service to meet baseline management standards by the year 2014. Today, more than six years after the challenge was announced, many wilderness areas are far from meeting those guidelines. To remedy this problem, the National Forest Foundation developed the Wilderness Stewardship Challenge grant program to provide funds to nonprofit partners doing on-the-ground conservation work that directly improves and benefits these protected areas.

One NFF Wilderness Stewardship Challenge grant recipient is the Yellow Dog Watershed Preserve, based in Big Bay, Mich. Established in 1995 by local citizens, the group works to protect the Yellow Dog River and surrounding Upper Peninsula watersheds. With the grant they received in the spring

of 2009, Yellow Dog Watershed Preserve worked with the Ottawa National Forest to address management needs in three major areas in the McCormick Wilderness—non-native plants, air quality, and recreation.

A working group, “Friends of the McCormick,” was developed to organize

volunteers and disperse information. Invasive plants were mapped and removed along trails, with special attention placed on the ubiquitous European swamp thistle, and boot brushes and signs were placed at trailheads as an education and prevention tool. On the air quality front, data was collected and sent to the national database and monitoring will continue for the next 3-5 years. A survey of past, current, and future

recreation sites was also completed.These studies and the data they provided

led to the establishment of comprehensive Forest Service management plans in each of the three focus areas. Thanks to the work of the Yellow Dog Watershed Preserve,

BRINGING A MIChIGAN WIldERNESS UP TO STANdARdS

Plucking European swamp thistle was part of an effort to protect Michigan’s McCormick Wilderness.

European swamp thistle

With the many challenges our National Forests face, partnerships are critical to ensuring a vibrant future for our natural resources and the amazing wild places we all enjoy. The NFF extends a tremendous thank you to all of the following local partner organizations who not only help get the work done, but have also stepped up to become NFF Partner Members in the last year.

American Hiking SocietyAnderson ZurMuehlen & Co.Appalachian Mountain ClubArizona Wildlife FederationCoalition for the Upper South PlatteDiscover Your NorthwestEl Dorado Nat’l Forest Interpretive Assoc.Four Corners School of Outdoor EducationFriends of Nevada WildernessFriends of PanthertownFriends of the InyoGreat Burn Study GroupHeart of Oregon Corps, Inc.John J. Hill Memorial FundLittle Cities of the Forest Collaborative

Mid Klamath Watershed CouncilMiddle Fork Willamette Watershed CouncilMount St. Helens InstituteMt. Adams Resource StewardsNational Wild Turkey FederationNorth Fork John Day Watershed CouncilPoudre Wilderness VolunteersRocky Mountain Field InstituteThe CREWThe Nature Conservancy in MontanaUpper Deschutes River CoalitionWestern Pennsylvania ConservancyWhittier Watershed CouncilWildlands Restoration VolunteersYouth Restoration Corps

NFF PARTNERShIPS MAKE CONSERvATION hAPPEN

as of November 2010 the McCormick Wilderness Area now meets the Forest Service Stewardship Challenge standards, serving as an exemplary model for other wilderness areas across the country.


FIELD REPORTSPhoto iStockPhoto.com

/ amygdala_im

agery; courtesy Salmon Valley Stew

ardship

Every fall, aspen groves add splashes of brilliant gold across the landscape. In the summer, the shimmer of their leaves catching the sun is mesmerizing, and the whisper of the wind in their branches, soothing. Aspen groves are a source of inspiration for people, but at the same time they are a critical biodiversity hotspot, housing around 500 species. Unfortunately, their numbers are shrinking across the West. In Idaho’s Upper Salmon River Basin, it is estimated that 95 percent of historic aspen groves are now dominated by less productive plant communities. It was this startling statistic that led Salmon Valley Stewardship to approach the National Forest Foundation with plans for an aspen restoration and monitoring project.

With the NFF grant they received, Salmon Valley Stewardship (SVS) worked with both the Salmon Field Office of the Bureau of Land Management and the Salmon-Challis National Forest to revitalize threatened groves in the area. In order to shift what was left of the forest product industry in the area toward restoration-based activities, SVS hired a local contractor to remove low-diameter conifers that had encroached upon aspen groves on National Forest land. Prescribed burning was also utilized to revitalize stands on BLM land, with a combined total of over 80 acres treated.

A large part of the project was focused

on community involvement and raising public awareness of aspen decline. To this end, SVS held two major community events: an aspen photo contest and a presentation of the aspen project called “Fading Gold.” The project also supported local volunteerism; after the treatments, data was gathered by volunteers, and monitoring plots were developed for future work. Of the participating volunteers, over 60 percent were 18 or younger, with future forest stewards not only learning valuable scientific and monitoring techniques, but also getting outside and making a connection to their local forests. The results of this project will provide critical guidelines for future aspen management decisions that will help to keep the groves of gold from fading away.

In the first week of November 2010, the NFF hosted an “Eastern Collaboration and Capacity-Building Workshop” in Tennessee, in partnership with the Southern Appalachian Forest Coalition. Thirty people representing conservation groups, community-based organizations, the Forest Service, and the wood-products industry came together for three days of panel discussions, training, peer learning, and of course, lots of socializing around the camp fire. Themes for the workshop included restoration, collaboration and organizational development.

The NFF has designed a special brand of workshop, creating a “retreat” environment that helps conservation professionals unplug from the distractions of their daily work and focus on learning from and along with each other. These workshops are grounded in the belief that peer learning is the key to moving the field of collaborative stewardship forward, and that the people working “on the ground” are the experts.

Participants traveled to Tennessee from their home communities in Minnesota, Vermont, Florida and Illinois, with a strong showing from the Southern Appalachian region. Apparent among those gathered in Tennessee was a deep connection to the richly diverse forests of the eastern United States, and a commitment to restore not only ecological health, but also the relationship of humans to the forests through the work they do.

“I wanted to thank (the NFF) so very much for coming east with your program to support and strengthen collaborative processes between forest groups and the U.S. Forest Service,” said Wayne Jenkins of Georgia Forest Watch. “Every opportunity for getting together, learning, listening and sharing brings us one step closer to better relations and improved management of our public forests.”

RESTORING ASPENIN IDAHO’s UPPER sALMON RIVER BAsIN

Salmon Valley Stewardship intern, Wyatt Hall, works on an aspen monitoring plot.

lEARNING FROM EACh OThER


Photos by iStockPhoto.com / Andrea G

ingerich

Few National Forests can claim more than one superlative. The White River National Forest in Colorado boasts the most annual visitors of any National Forest. California’s Inyo National Forest lies in the shadows of Mt. Whitney, the tallest mountain in the lower 48 states; while the Tahoe and the Wasatch-Cache-Uinta National Forests are tied for the most ski areas—five each. But the Tongass National Forest in Southeast Alaska can and does claim dozens of “bests,” “more thans,” and “mosts.”

Covering nearly 17 million acres, it is three times bigger than the next largest National Forest. It hosts the world’s largest temperate rain forest, which holds more biomass per acre than any other type of forest including tropical rain forests, and contains the largest reserve of old-growth trees in America. It encompasses 19 designated wilderness areas—more than any other National Forest. The Tongass supports the highest density of grizzlies, the largest congregation of bald eagles, and parts of it get more rain than any other

National Forest. From icy glaciers to mist-shrouded rain forests, from high alpine meadows with bright wildflowers to gin-clear salmon and trout streams, the Tongass is a truly impressive and inspiring place.

In Southeast Alaska, a part of the state known as the “Panhandle,” dense forested islands and coastal mountains stretch from south of massive Prince of Wales Island roughly 500 miles north to the far edge of Malaspina Glacier, which lies west of Yakutat Bay. The Tongass covers more than 80 percent of this vast area. In addition to the lush temperate rain forest vegetation—towering Sitka spruce trees, broad western red and yellow cedar, and dark western hemlock, colorful salmon berry bushes, thorny devil’s club, and impenetrable thickets of alder—the Tongass’ terra firma supports regal grizzly and black bears, lumbering moose, stealthy wolves, Sitka black-tailed deer, mountain goats, ospreys, and countless smaller species. Its rich waters harbor all five species of Pacific salmon—chum (dog), Coho (silver), Chinook

(king), sockeye (red), and pink (humpback or humpies). Dolly varden, steelhead, rainbow, and cutthroat trout also thrive in the freshwater rivers and streams, while sea lions, seals, sea otters, and whales cruise the salty ocean waters.

Largely dependent upon this diversity, a network of tight-knit communities clings to the Tongass’ rugged shores. Juneau, Alaska’s state capital, is located within the Tongass and home to roughly 31,000 people. Sitka, Ketchikan, Hydaburg, Craig, Petersburg, and Wrangell are scattered across the region. Skagway and Haines, both located on the Tongass, are the only two communities that are connected to the road system. All other communities are accessible by air or water only.

Native peoples have lived here for millennia too. The Haida, Tlingit and Tsimshian all consider parts of the Tongass their home. In fact, the name Tongass is borrowed from a group of Tlingit peoples who lived in the region when the first European settlers arrived. Today, ceremonies and cultural

BEAUFORT SE AARCT IC OCE AN

AnchorageAnchorage

JuneauJuneau

A LAND OF S UPERLATIVES

EXPLORING ALASKA’S TONGASS NATIONAL FOREST

TREASURED L ANDSCAPES

By Greg M. Peters


Photo by iStockPhoto.com / D

avid Mathies

traditions that include subsistence harvest and food preparation are vital to the health and success of these native communities.

SCULPTED BY WATER AND ICEUnique geological features add to the

Tongass’s mystique. The same water, wind, and ice that sculpted this region for eons still rake across the landscape, constantly reshaping the mountains and islands. In the higher elevations, snow accumulates faster than it melts and massive glaciers form, often combining into gigantic ice-sheets, frozen relics of the Pleistocene.

In the southern end of the Tongass, the immense Stikine Icefield covers 2,900 square miles along the crest of the Coast Range. Just outside of Juneau rests the 1,500-square-mile Juneau Icefield, which contains the Mendenhall Glacier, one of the most viewed in the country, and site of the first-ever Forest Service interpretive center, built in 1962. On the northern part of the Tongass, the Hubbard Glacier is the largest tidewater glacier in the world, measuring 76 miles long and 6 miles wide at its face. A tidewater glacier—unique in the United States to Alaska—terminates in the ocean in dramatic fashion as giant chunks of ice calve from the glacier’s face and thunder into the water. Imagine 6 miles of this drama unfolding before your eyes.

Additionally, the region, especially 2,600-

square-mile Prince of Wales Island, is known for its unique subsurface features. Countless, virtually unexplored caves, sub-surface rivers, drainages, and other underground features have been discovered on the island in recent decades. These karst formations are the result of water eroding and dissolving limestone and marble over centuries. Because the Tongass receives so much precipitation, from 29 inches a year in Skagway to more than 200 inches a year in Little Port Walter, the formation and alteration of these features is perpetual. Trees grow larger and faster in the well-drained soil that caps these karst formations as well, and Prince of Wales has some of the largest trees on the Tongass.

A TUmULTUOUS HISTORYThe Tongass is not without controversy,

however. Logging, road building, and endangered species management have been the subjects of lawsuits, magazine articles, and fiercely fought battles among locals, timber companies, and others dependent on steady work from resource extraction and conservationists fighting for the preservation of one of the wildest and most biologically rich places in the world.

The heyday of logging on the Tongass began in the 1960s and ended in the late 1990s. Its origins lie in an effort to aid the Japanese recovery following World War II when the Forest Service set up exclusive, 50-year logging deals with two companies that contracted most of the logging. The lumber was shipped to Japan, often as whole logs, to help its rebuilding effort and was focused largely in low-elevation, accessible old-growth forests. These contracts finally ended in the 1990s. Since then, the Forest Service and its partners have been working to develop newer, more modern contracting and harvesting methodology for the Tongass.

Unfortunately, these modern harvest practices are just that, modern. While historic logging practices affected less than 5 percent of harvestable land on the Tongass, some areas were logged much more intensively, especially forests on Prince of Wales Island. One island watershed, Twelvemile Creek, experienced intense logging that affected 47 percent of the watershed, including riparian and streamside areas. These practices disrupted

natural processes and have impacted fisheries and wildlife habitat. Salmon and trout rely on large woody debris in creeks for several habitat provisions. But without large trees to fall into Twelvemile Creek, it cannot support the vibrant populations of these fish that it once did.

Additionally, second-growth forests in such a wet environment grow extremely thick and dense, making travel for animals exceedingly difficult and reducing availability of browse. Because they lack a tall, interconnected canopy, snow falls directly onto the ground in these second-growth forests, instead of catching high in the branches of mature trees. This further impedes animal movement and compromises their ability to find cover and refuge from the fierce winter storms that buffet the region.

CREATING TONGASS mEmORIESThe majority of the more than 1 million

visitors who see the Tongass each year do so from the deck of a cruise ship or one of the Alaska Marine Highway ferries. Cruise ships typically depart from Bellingham, Wash., and sail through the Inside Passage to Skagway, Ketchikan, Juneau and other Southeast towns, stopping for an afternoon or a couple days in the quaint, seaside towns. The Alaska Marine Highway System ferries follow similar routes as the cruise ships, but lack the luxury. They are a great option for budget-conscious folks, those who have cars, or those who want something a little different from a cruise. Cabins with varying numbers of beds and facilities can be reserved for overnight voyages, and you can roll out a sleeping bag in a few places on board. For truly adventurous souls, pitching a tent on the upper deck is allowed as well, and you can even bring a pet.

For those with more time or desire to explore, the Tongass National Forest offers unparalleled opportunities for recreation, adventure, or relaxation. From kayaking, fishing and whale watching, to dog-sledding, hiking, and flight-seeing, the Tongass offers something for everyone. Remember though, that the forest is huge—17 million acres—and largely roadless. The Forest Service maintains a network of almost 150 cabins spread across the Tongass, some on beaches, some near lakes or rivers, and some near alpine meadows,

Mendenhall Glacier



Photo by iStockPhoto.com / Steve Sucsy

Twelvemile Creek watershed on Prince of Wales Island have contributed to declining watershed health and salmon runs over the past decades. Compounding the issue of a lack of large trees is an overly dense second-growth forest that has sprung up in the old-growth’s place.

The National Forest Foundation has designated Twelvemile Creek as a keystone restoration site under our Treasured Landscapes conservation campaign. The NFF is working with the Forest Service, local watershed groups, Native communities, state and local agencies, and residents of Prince of Wales Island to develop and implement a restoration program for Twelvemile Creek. Our priority goals are: effective on-the-ground restoration activities—especially the addition of large woody debris back into the creek and its tributaries; the development of a monitoring program to learn how best to restore these creeks and to share this knowledge across regions; and

capacity building to help the communities of Prince of Wales Island best steward their resources for future generations.

The NFF’s initial focus has been on the collection of baseline data that will provide a reference for stream and fisheries conditions as restoration projects are implemented. The process of nurturing collaboration that began several years ago will continue in early 2011 as the NFF hosts a watershed symposium, which will bring together the various island-wide constituents. Working together with Southeast Alaska’s local watershed groups, the NFF plans a full suite of restoration strategies that will enhance in-stream habitat, reduce invasive plant species, restore upland forest habitats, eliminate fish passage barriers, and ensure best management practices are shared among forest stakeholders. As with all of the NFF’s restoration sites, we aim to revitalize this treasured land for its wild beauty, its rich biodiversity and the many people who cherish the Tongass.

Some things just go naturally together, migrating songbirds and springtime, ice cream and apple pie, baseball games and peanuts, Pacific salmon and trees. Wait, salmon and trees?

In a healthy old-growth forest, the oldest, largest trees are constantly toppling onto the ground. Some of them end up in rivers and creeks where they provide critically important habitat for salmon. These large woody debris piles collect and filter the gravel beds where salmon lay their eggs. They create pools and holes for the just-hatched fry and slightly older juvenile salmon to hide in; they provide food and refuge for the insects that young salmon eat; and they provide refuge for over-wintering adults and other fish species that spend their entire lives in rivers. Without trees, especially big old trees, salmon can’t proliferate like they should.

Historic clear-cutting, haphazard road building and other forest practices in the

although none are accessible by road. Like the residents who live here, you’ll have to use your feet, a boat, or an airplane to get to “home” for the night.

If you’ve ever wanted to watch grizzly bears catch salmon leaping from the water, the Tongass is the place to go. Coastal brown bears, called grizzlies in the rest of the world, congregate in certain areas of the Tongass in numbers not found anywhere else to feast on the salmon that thrive in the rivers and ocean. Visitors can view bears at several places on the forest including Pack Creek on Admiralty Island and Anan Creek near the town of Wrangell. At these established sites, the Forest Service has specific rules that visitors must follow, and an armed ranger is stationed at each site, even though over the years, thousands of visitors have watched bears in these areas without a single bear-related injury at either site. “Do it yourself ” viewing sites are located on the road at Fish Creek, near the town of Hyder, which is just over the border from Stewart, British Columbia, and at Margaret Creek outside of Ketchikan, which requires a boat

ride and 1-mile hike from Margaret Bay.The Tongass is considered by many to be

the “crown jewel” of the National Forest System. Its vastness, diversity, and unique splendor combine to lend much support to this belief. It is an outsized landscape of massive glaciers, cascading waterfalls, and mist-blanketed bays. It is the cultural and ancestral heart of three distinct groups

of Native peoples, and the home of a unique collection of communities that succeed despite the rugged, inhospitable climate. It is remote, difficult to access, and mysterious. But its rewards are likewise outsized. A visit to the Tongass is unlike a visit to any other National Forest in the country. Come create your best, most, or more-than memory to last a lifetime.

RESTORING PRINCE OF WALES


Coho salmon in Ketchikan Creek

Graphic by iStockPhoto.com

/ minim

il

A new year has arrived, and with it a time for new hopes and new perspectives. As 2010 came to a close, we grew introspective, searching for how best we could improve our lives in the coming year. Generally, we make personal resolutions, all of us that is, except the United Nations; they make theirs on a global scale. In December of 2006, U.N. resolution 61/193 officially declared 2011 the “International Year of Forests.” Focusing on the central theme of “Forests for People,” the U.N. resolves to raise awareness about the diverse and valuable services our world’s forests provide for us while also promoting a healthy balance of sustainable forest management, development, and conservation. Forests are a source of shelter for not only animals, but people as well. They provide us with clean water, food, medicine, and keep our global climate stable and regulated. By highlighting the role that forests play in our lives, the U.N. is also reminding us of just how much we have to lose if we don’t protect these valuable ecosystems.

And just what is the state of our world’s forests? Since 1946, the Food and Agriculture Organization of the U.N. has released a Global Forest Resources Assessment (FRA) every five to 10 years. These reports are based on data collected from all types of forests around the world. In the 2010 FRA, findings were mixed. The rate of deforestation has decreased, with an average of 13 million hectares lost each year compared to 16 million in the 1990s. Also, large-scale tree planting has reduced the net loss of forests worldwide. Regionally, South America suffered the greatest net loss, followed by Africa. In Europe, the total forest area has continued to expand due in part to the comprehensive reforestation programs put in place by the European Union in 1990. China’s tree-planting efforts also paid off, with Asia reporting a net gain of more than 2.2 million hectares. Here in North America and also in Central America, estimates of forest area remained almost the same at the end of the decade as at the beginning. Although these numbers


THE FOREST By Darcy Poletti-Harp

& TREES: the

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are encouraging, they are far from perfect. It’s these kinds of statistics that have led to the designation of the International Year of Forests; the U.N. recognizes that unless we truly understand that our daily lives are inextricably intertwined with the earth’s forests, that their health is our health, the threats that currently face our forests will get the best of them.

FOREST VALUES RUN DEEP Here in America, one of the most

important ways that we will be celebrating the International Year of Forests is by exploring new avenues of thinking about our forests. Decades ago, our young and growing nation focused on forests for the resources that could build our country. You know that old adage “You can’t see the forest for the trees?” With a nation’s attention upon the clear, dependable profits that trees could provide, it took time for people to see forest ecosystems as a complete, interconnected whole. But really, forests are so much more than just the trees that have defined them for so many years. Yes, forest ecosystems do provide us with timber, but they are also a source of everything from fresh drinking water and boundless recreation opportunities, to the pure, refreshing inspiration of wild and natural places.

Today, there is a growing movement among the nation’s forest managers and environmental organizations to re-frame the way we look at our forests, to “see” the forest and the trees. At the heart of this shift in thinking is the idea of “ecosystem services,” or in other words, the benefits that people receive from a particular ecosystem. Some of these benefits are easy to quantify and identify—food, shelter, raw materials—but often evidence of other more abstract, but equally valuable services like climate regulation, pollination, and erosion control is not so visible in our daily lives. The first chief of the U.S. Forest Service, Gifford Pinchot, defined conservation as “foresighted utilization, preservation and/or renewal of forests,

waters, lands and minerals, for the greatest good of the greatest number for the longest time.” Since Pinchot made that statement in the early 1900s, the idea of what exactly the “greatest good” was has shifted in varying political, economic and social climates. But in this new century, and particularly in this new decade, we are increasingly aware of the fact that the “greatest good” for our nation’s forest ecosystems is also the “greatest good” for our nation’s human inhabitants.

WATERWater may be the most elemental part

of our lives, making up around 60 percent of our bodies. In cities and towns across the country, we turn on the tap and fresh, clean water comes out. But how many of us actually can trace the journey that water took to reach our faucets? How many of us could name the rivers and lakes that make up our local and regional watersheds? Here in America, more than 180 million people depend on forests for their drinking water, with some of the nation’s biggest cities from New York to San Francisco relying on forest land for their municipal water source. Forests help with erosion control, reducing the amount of sediments in our water, while their natural filtration system decreases the need for treatment.

In recent decades, communities everywhere have realized that the conservation of forest ecosystems directly benefits their citizens. When New York City’s water quality was found to no longer meet EPA standards in the 1990s, city officials were faced with two options: one, build a new filtration plant with a $6 billion to $8 billion construction cost and a $300 million yearly operating fee, or, two, invest in the preservation of the Catskills watershed where natural processes could help filter the city’s water supply. The city settled on the latter option, buying more land upstate and making improvements to existing treatment plants—all for the much more reasonable price of about $1.5 billion.

Although cities like New York are working

to secure the future of the ecosystems that provide their clean water supply, action is still needed. In 2003, the U.S. Government Accountability Office reported that within the next decade, at least 36 states anticipate a shortage of water. Future generations will still need fresh, clean water, and if we work together to take care of our forests, these ecosystems can provide us with a cost-effective, sustainable solution to our water worries.

BIODIVERSITYThe landscape of the nation’s forests is

truly diverse. From Alaska’s rain forests to Florida’s hammocks, our forests are home to a wide array of plants and animals. The interactions between these species are the heart of a healthy, functioning ecosystem, and to upset just one part of the equation is to upset the whole. Biodiversity affects our daily lives as well as the daily life of an

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CELEBRATING ALL THAT OUR FORESTS HAVE TO GIVE


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ecosystem. Take pollination for example. Recent concerns about the mysterious decrease in honeybee populations due to Colony Collapse Disorder have brought this particular ecosystem service into the limelight. Although they are probably the most familiar pollinator, honeybees are just one species of the approximately 20,000 native pollinating bees. Without the wide variety of pollinators that nature provides, agriculture would prove to be extremely expensive and close to impossible. Of course, almost as much as humans need water, we need food.

In the future, it shouldn’t take such a drastic event to make us aware of the importance of biodiversity. From habitat fragmentation to climate change, many threats face the variety of species that make up forest ecosystems. Invasive species have proven to be one of the most pressing issues affecting our forests today. Non-native European starlings crowd out native birds and destroy crops; New Zealand mud snails compete for resources with native aquatic insects, which in turn affects the native fish populations that eat those insects. With their ability to thrive in disturbed areas and produce large amounts of seeds, invasive plants such as spotted knapweed and dalmatian toadflax pose a great threat to native species in the American West. These noxious weeds choke out native plants, competing with them for light, space, and nutrients. Overall, it has been estimated

that invasive species have contributed to the decline of 42 percent of endangered species in the United States, a startling statistic that cannot be ignored. Of conservation, Aldo Leopold once said, “To keep every cog and wheel is the first precaution of intelligent tinkering.” In our management of our forests, we need to keep in mind that without a whole and diverse forest, we would not be able to benefit from the other ecosystem services that are so important to human health and society.

CLIMATE REGULATIONClimate change is one of the most

complex issues facing our world today, and forests hold significant solutions to the global warming debate. Most importantly, trees and plants take in carbon dioxide from the atmosphere through photosynthesis and store it as carbon in their wood, leaves and soil. This process is known as carbon sequestration, and it directly offsets the carbon dioxide produced by the burning of fossil fuels and other activities. Carbon sequestration works to keep our air clean and climate regulated when the trees are living, but when areas are deforested, the carbon that the trees once stored is re-released into the atmosphere as harmful carbon dioxide.

Trees are also an important source of biomass, which could possibly replace fossil fuels in everything from heating to transportation. The Billion Ton Report published in 2005 by the U.S. Department of Energy and the U.S. Department of Agriculture estimated that 370 million dry tons of biomass are available from forest wastes and residues each year. In one creative

solution, many schools have jumped on the biomass wagon and replaced their old, inefficient heating systems with biomass burners. From there, the biomass market continues to expand across the country.

As much as trees hold important solutions to climate change, they are impacted by its damaging effects. Increased levels of forest fires can be linked to changes in temperature and precipitation patterns. Warmer winters have allowed damaging species like the mountain pine beetle to move to higher elevations as well as further north, a shift that has severely damaged more than 27 million acres of forests in Canada and the western United States since 1990. Scientists predict that, in the future, climate change will pose the greatest threat to large, old trees and seedlings, putting both historic and future forests in danger. The ongoing search for innovative solutions to improving forest resiliency will protect and sustain not only our country’s important ecosystems, but benefit the rest of the planet as well.

URBAN FORESTSWhen we think of forests, we usually

think of vast stretches of trees, of places where we can escape the rush of morning traffic and the whirlwind energy of city life. But, recently there has been a new focus on urban forests. Did you know that your neighborhood trees save energy and remove pollutants from the air? Public and private organizations are forming to address the importance of urban forests and strategic community planning is strengthening the “green infrastructure” in cities across the country. In response to the fact that New York City lost 9,000 acres of green space from 1984 to 2002, MillionTreesNYC was formed with the goal to plant and care for 1 million trees in the next decade. New York’s urban forest covers 24 percent of the city’s total area and it is estimated that the trees remove 2,202 tons of pollution and store 1.35 million tons of carbon each year, while also reducing energy costs by $28 million annually. The statistics are in and the benefits are clear: urban forests are greening our cities across the country and deserve the same protection and care as the ecosystems we have traditionally defined as forests.

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RECREATIONWhere can you hike, bike, hunt, climb,

camp, raft a river, pick mushrooms and berries, and cut your Christmas tree? Our nation’s forests! Every year, people across the country enter our forests to escape the daily grind, enjoying activities from fly fishing to stargazing. But, what if anglers could no longer eat the fish they caught in our rivers because their waters were too contaminated? What if the trill of colorful songbirds ceased to sound through the trees? What if the trees blanketing the picturesque mountains you love were devastated by bark beetles and turned an unsightly brown? Well, if we don’t think about our nation’s forests as whole ecosystems, if we “can’t see the forest for the trees,” then we could lose many of the things we love about recreating in our nation’s forests.

People need nature. The famous Harvard biologist E.O. Wilson popularized the concept of “biophilia,” claiming that there is an innate connection between humans and their natural surroundings. Studies have shown that access to green, open spaces does everything from increasing work productivity to shortening convalescence time in hospitals. But, despite these findings, our nation’s children are spending less and less time in nature. Between 1997 and 2003, the number of children who spent time enjoying the outdoors decreased by 50 percent. As much as the challenge is about protecting our forests for the recreational opportunities we enjoy today, it is also

about inspiring the next generation of forest stewards to savor their own personal connection to the outdoors.

REASONS TO CELEBRATEThe U.N. had good reason to designate

this year as the International Year of Forests. The Millennium Ecosystem Assessment they completed in 2005 found that 60 percent of our global ecosystem services have been degraded to some degree. Forests are for people, and our current and future quality of life is directly linked to the forests that support us. This year, and hopefully for many years to come, new voices will join in the discussion of forest health and sustainability. Coalitions will be built across the public and private landscape to help break down old barriers that have historically slowed the pace of conservation and sustainable management, and new programs will be developed to get our children outside so they can better understand and appreciate the importance of clean water and healthy ecosystems. If we all work together, keeping in mind all that is at stake, from our drinking water to the genetic diversity of our native plants, we can bring the message of the International Year of Forests home to the United States. So start celebrating! Take a walk among your neighborhood trees and think of how they are making your city a healthier, greener place. Camp out under the stars. Learn how to identify invasive species. Show a child the wonders of nature. Get outside and see the forest and the trees.

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Yearly United Nations designations are used to highlight pressing political, social, environmental and human rights issues. In 2010, the U.N. observed the International Year of Biodiversity. Other past observances have included Deserts and Desertification (2006), Cultural Heritage (2002) and Literacy (1994).

International Year of Forests events are planned throughout the year. Visit

www.un.org/en/events/iyof2011 or www.fs.fed.us/iyof/ for more information.

WHY FORESTS? Global Forest Facts:

300 million people call forests their home.

Forests constitute 31 percent of the Earth’s total land area.

1.6 billion people rely on forests for their livelihoods.

Forests house 80 percent of the planet’s terrestrial biodiversity.

UN INTERNATIONAL YEAR OF FORESTS

Photos by Zack Porter; iStockPhoto.com / C

hristian Nafzger

Trapper, hunter and angler, logger, firefighter, trail crew boss, fire lookout, Marine gunnery sergeant, forest ranger, historian and storyteller … during his 93 years, William R. “Bud” Moore was all of these things and much more. After a 40-year career with the U.S. Forest Service, Bud retired in1974 as chief of the Division of Fire Control and Air Operations for the 29-million-acre Northern Region. Rugged western landscapes shaped his lifetime of dedication to forests and wild country not only in his “backyard” but across the nation.

Bud grew up surrounded by the Bitterroot Mountains and the Lochsa River, when silvertip grizzlies still wandered the drainages and hillsides. Every winter, Bud would run a trap line from his house to school, stashing his pack and rifle outside the school yard when he arrived in the morning. As a teenager, he worked for the Forest Service, building trails and fighting forest fires. But,

World War II soon called him away from the mountains he loved to the distant islands of the Pacific theatre, where he served valiantly with the Marine Corps.

When Bud returned to Montana, he began working on the Powell District of the Clearwater National Forest, where in 1948 he was named district ranger. During his years on the Powell, Bud came to know the intricacies of the ecosystems he was charged with managing. “My job was to steward this country, to know it better than anybody else, and I’d look in the mirror every night and say, ‘how did you do today?’ ” said Bud in an interview with Idaho Public Television. Bud’s career stretched from the wilds of Montana to Washington, D.C., and included many significant accomplishments. While he only graduated from the eighth grade, Bud was awarded an honorary doctorate of science from the University of Montana for his work in conservation.

One of the most important contributions of Bud’s career with the Forest Service was his role in helping establish the agency’s modern wilderness fire policy. Bud’s “heretical” idea that some fires should be allowed to burn was rooted in his intrinsic knowledge of the land; in his days checking trap lines across the Bitterroot and Lochsa, he saw that the lasting effects of wildfires were not exclusively negative. When Bud and other fire supervisors decided to let a lightning strike burn in the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness, the results were influential in shaping the way the Forest Service now manages wildfires.

During his time at the Forest Service, Bud saw many changes sweep across the agency. The widespread timber harvesting of the 1960s and 1970s led Bud to one of the concepts that shaped the remainder of his public career and private life as well: “ecosystem management.” Bud believed that we must manage the land in a way that allows us to take what we need, while still maintaining the connectivity that is at the heart of a healthy, functioning ecosystem.

After he retired, Bud put his theories into practice on Coyote Forest, his own 80-acre homestead in Montana’s Swan Valley. Into his nineties, Bud continued to manage his property himself, judiciously logging timber and then milling those same logs in his one-man mill. “[Ecosystem management is] not having a forester look after the trees and someone from fisheries look after the fish, but everyone working together, so you really understand the effects you would have tinkering with any one piece,” said Melanie Parker, who with Bud co-founded Northwest Connections, a conservation education center in Condon.

In his later life, Bud became an ecological historian, publishing his book “The Lochsa Story: Land Ethics in the Bitterroot Mountains” in 1996. The book is part autobiography, part history, and part ecosystem management textbook. Bud was also known as a master storyteller who always had time to spin a good yarn whenever a friend stopped by. Over the years, Bud acted as a mentor for individuals across western Montana in both private industry and the public sector. He frequently led classes at Northwest Connections and enjoyed speaking with the next generation of land stewards.

The conservation community lost a true icon with Bud’s death in November 2010—but he left behind a lasting legacy. In the final pages of “The Lochsa Story,” Bud leaves us with this thought: “The quest for understanding nature can never end, for humans will never fully solve the mystery of it all. Everything in this land, including ourselves, is so intricately connected to everything else. The important thing is that while we continue to harvest the land’s bounty, as we must, we keep learning as we go.”


CONSERVATION LEADERS

A PurPoseful life insPired by the MountAin Wilds

“The quest for understanding nature can never end, for humans will never fully solve the mystery of it all. Everything in this land, including ourselves,

is so intricately connected to everything else. The important thing is that while we continue to harvest the land’s bounty, as we must, we keep learning as we go.”

“My job was to steward this country, to know it better than anybody else, and I’d look in the mirror every night and say, ‘how did you do today?’ ”

Photos by Scott Hunt, Steve Krull, and Andrew

Nisbet / iStockPhoto.com


seArch for scAtIn addition to tracks, animals leave behind

scat that can help us identify them. Each animal’s scat looks different and can help when tracks alone are not enough. You might even learn a little something about what the forest residents are eating this time of year.

hunt for treAsureAnimals also leave behind traces of

themselves that kids can collect. A bit of soft fur caught on a branch, a downy feather left on the snow or a shed antler can make treasured discoveries—and help kids get an up-close lesson in wildlife biology.

look uP for our feAthered friends

Winter is a great time to see waterfowl like ducks, geese and swans, as well as other migrating species that winter over in your area. With the leaves gone from trees, birds are easier to see and identify. Species like Bohemian waxwings often roost together to stay warm, with hundreds and even thousands of birds congregating upon the same area in the evening. Near the end of the day, watch for large flocks flying toward their nightly roosts.

MigrAte south For an extended winter wildlife

experience—and a chance to escape the cold—head to a National Forest in a warmer climate. Many bird species migrate to these warmer areas and you can observe animals that you wouldn’t see elsewhere at this time of year. For example, not all black bears in Florida’s Ocala National Forest hibernate, so winter visitors might be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of the elusive animals. Forests of the Southwest offer a chance to see a unique variety of creatures—from the javelina to the Gila monster.

Winter Wildlife WAtching Provides outdoor fun

Because surviving through the harsh winter takes so much energy, the animals you see will be under extra stress. Running causes them to burn important body fat reserves that keep them warm and healthy through the winter, so don’t get so close that they feel threatened. As a rule, when watching wildlife don’t do anything that will startle them or make them change their behavior. Binoculars are a great way to observe from a safe distance. If watching from the road, your car can also act as a “blind” that will allow you to view wildlife without disturbing them. If the family dog likes to tag along on hiking or snowshoeing excursions, make sure to keep your pet from chasing after wildlifeas well.

Raccoon tracks in the snow, mule deer and a great grey owl

helP Wildlife WeAther the Winter

KIDS & NATURE

Winter weather may keep our families inside more often, but the season also provides a unique opportunity to observe wildlife in our National Forests. During winter months, animals move down from the high country when snow gets too deep, bringing their homes closer to ours. Bears are tucked away in cozy dens hibernating, but birds, moose, elk, bobcats, cougars, and smaller mammals like ermine and rabbits are still active.

Winter wildlife watching is a great family activity. The best time to catch a glimpse of critters out and about is early in the morning or late in the day. Even if the animals themselves are scarce, they leave behind clues that little detectives can investigate. Kids can burn a little energy exploring the great outdoors and learning about wildlife habits, and your whole family can enjoy a day of recreation on our nation’s public lands. So bundle up and go see how wildlife adapts to the harsh conditions of winter.

Pick uP A good guidebookWildlife guides can help you to identify

winter animals and interpret the stories they leave written in the snow. Depending on their focus, guides can help you identify animals by sight, tracks, or even scat.

scout soMe trAcksEach animal species creates a unique set

of tracks for us to identify and follow. The tracks of a raccoon are strikingly similar to tiny human handprints and rabbits leave a distinctive “Y” shaped set of tracks with each bound across the snow. Coming across a set of tracks, ask your kids: How many animals were there? Where were they headed and why? With good observation skills, you and your kids can enjoy unraveling the tales left by animal sign.


Photos © W

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interparkresort.com; TO

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HT courtesy N

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onservation Association

Whether staying for a weekend in Jackson Hole, stopping to enjoy the ancient forests surrounding Lake Quinault Lodge or visiting the Timberline Lodge National Historic Landmark, your visits to many of America’s premiere destinations offer the added bonus of surrounding National Forests chock full of outdoor recreation opportunities.

For the past five years, the National Forest Foundation has been providing a way for visitors to help protect these places where they play. At a variety of businesses, guests can contribute $1 per room night, ski lift ticket, raft trip, or golf game. The NFF’s Ski Conservation Fund and Forest Stewardship Fund take those collective donations, leverage them with additional support, and turn them into the good work that ensures vibrant forests and quality outdoor experiences.

The small mountain community of Sisters, Ore., has put the stewardship fund idea to work in a big way for their beloved rivers. Here within the Deschutes National Forest, a half dozen lodges have banded together to ensure a bright future for the Metolius River and Whychus Creek through guest contributions.

Do you remember a particularly amazing summer job? Thanks to contributions from guests at Vail Resorts, two interns with the Student Conservation Association had the opportunity to spend a summer as wilderness rangers in the spectacular Holy Cross, Eagle’s Nest, and Flat Tops Wilderness Areas. Maintaining backcountry trails and campsites, they were no strangers to crosscut saws, pulaskis, and other hand tools of wilderness managers. Visitors to the White River National Forest will benefit from their hard work for years to come, and these interns will long remember their summer working and sleeping in the wilderness.

As snow sports enthusiasts know, healthy watersheds are integral to a great ski season. Guests at Snowbird Resorts can rest easy knowing that their contributions have helped improve Little Cottonwood, Big Cottonwood, and Millcreek canyons. As part of the Healthy Watershed Restoration Program, the Cottonwood Canyons Foundation brought together over 700 volunteers to improve trails, repair road crossings, and treat invasive species on the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest.

From Vail to Snowbird, many other resorts are demonstrating how the dollars add up to tremendous conservation benefits. Here’s just a sampling of the valuable work skiers and other outdoors enthusiasts have supported in recent years:

PlAy, stAy, MAke A difference: steWArdshiP funds return benefits to the greAt outdoors

uintA-WAsAtch-cAche nAtionAl forest, utAh

White river nAtionAl forest, colorAdo

SKI CONSERVATION FUND


SKI CONSERVATION FUND

Photo courtesy of the Mono Lake C

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Anyone who’s ever tied a fly or baited a hook knows that fish thrive in the nooks and crannies in streams and rivers, finding cover in cool pools made by trees and brush. Without this streamside cover, fish populations can dwindle. That’s why the Upper Deschutes River Coalition, with funding from guest contributions made at Sunriver Resort and Sun Country Tours, spent a summer placing large woody debris along the banks of the Deschutes River. Many hands—from youth volunteers to giant machines—are working together to improve the river’s fish and wildlife habitat.

Boot soles, horse hooves, livestock feed, and tire treads—these are just a few of the ways that non-native plants find their way into our National Forests. At Mono Lake, where underground, geyser-like seeps support unique plant and animal species, rapidly

nff steWArdshiPfund PArtnersAs you’re planning your next outdoor

getaway, consider visiting one of these locations. Not only will you be treated to beautiful surroundings, but you’ll have the opportunity to become a steward of public lands. Each of these businesses collects guest contributions to support stewardship of the surrounding National Forest.

cAliforniAChina Peak

Heavenly Mountain ResortKirkwood Mountain ResortMt. Shasta Ski and Board

Northstar at TahoeSierra at Tahoe

Sugar Bowl

colorAdoArapahoe Basin Ski & Snowboard Area

Beaver Creek ResortBreckenridge Ski ResortCopper Mountain Resort

Keystone ResortThe Lodge and Spa at Cordillera

Vail MountainWinter Park Resort

neW MeXicoSki Apache

oregonBlack Butte Ranch

Cascade Vacation RentalsCold Springs Resort

Cooper Spur Mountain ResortLake Creek Lodge

Mt. Bachelor Ski ResortSun Country Tours

Sunriver ResortTimberline Lodge and Ski Area

utAhSnowbird Ski and Summer Resort

WAshingtonLake Quinault Lodge

Skamania Lodge

WyoMingJackson Hole Mountain Resort

Togwotee Mountain Lodge

inyo nAtionAl forest, cAliforniAspreading white sweet clover is a threat to native species along the lakeshore. Mammoth Mountain’s guests made it possible for almost 200 volunteers to combat invasive weeds, helping to protect Mono Lake’s distinctive shoreline habitat.

deschutes nAtionAl forest, oregon


CORPORATE PARTNERS CORNERPhotos courtesy N

ational Forest Foundation; Wikim

edia Com

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athieu Marquer

Wildlife habitat across the nation will benefit thanks to the generous support of the Remington Outdoor Foundation (ROF). The Remington Outdoor Foundation has become a high-profile partner of the National Forest Foundation with their sponsorship of the NFF’s Annual Sporting Clays Invitational event. But the ROF has made an even larger commitment to the wildlife habitat provided by our National Forests with their support of NFF habitat restoration work.

In August of 2009, an act of arson caused the largest fire in Los Angeles County’s history. Over the course of two months, the fire raged across the Angeles National Forest, burning close to 25 percent of the forest’s land base and impacting 35 communities. In the aftermath, the National Forest Foundation is proudly partnering with Southern California Edison, the Southern California Air Quality Management District (AQMD) and other community partners to develop and implement a major reforestation effort that will help the Angeles return to its pre-fire vibrancy.

Responding to this catastrophe, the U.S. Forest Service and multiple local partners outlined restoration strategies in the 2010 Station Fire Restoration Strategy, funded by Southern California Edison and developed in partnership with the NFF. The strategy identifies critical needs including: creation of

Remington outdooR Foundation helps RestoRe FoRest habitats

a “forest community,” large-scale restoration, new funding and policy changes.

To help meet the tremendous restoration needs, the NFF will implement a 2,770-acre carbon sequestration project through reforestation efforts. Over 14,000 acres that burned in the forest were completely deforested. Although it will take years to recover this lost forest, this is a first step toward restoring the native landscape. Beginning in the spring of 2010, the NFF and U.S. Forest Service began procuring and growing native seeds to produce seedlings for planting in 2011, thanks to funding from the AQMD. The restored forest will ultimately improve water quality, recreation experiences, and wildlife habitat for species from the California condor to mountain yellow-legged frogs.

To enhance community engagement, the restoration strategy calls for creating

station FiRe RecoveRy beneFits FRom two coRpoRate paRtneRships

a “Friends of the Angeles” initiative that will bring together various stakeholders to participate in a dialogue about restoring and sustaining ecosystem health on the Angeles National Forest. The Friends group also aims to better engage underserved communities and nurture meaningful connections between area citizens and their public lands.

“The Angeles National Forest is America’s most urban national forest with 17 million residents living within an hour’s drive,” said Vance Russell, NFF California program director. “In teaming up with Southern California Edison and the AQMD, we can leverage multiple resources in making a long-term difference toward revitalizing the Angeles National Forest.”

With a multi-year commitment, the ROF will support several habitat conservation projects. Their first donation of $100,000 is at work revitalizing habitat in Colorado’s Pike National Forest and the Deschutes National Forest in Oregon.

“Our support of the National Forest Foundation’s Treasured Landscapes, Unforgettable Experiences campaign enables us to help restore forest ecosystems, which is an important part of Remington Outdoor

Foundation’s conservation mission,” said Jim Moore, ROF president. “This investment in our National Forest System of $100,000 a year for three years will provide countless recreation and environmental benefits.”

The work supported by the ROF will benefit numerous species, including elk, deer and cutthroat trout in Colorado, as well as salmon and steelhead in Oregon. Founded in January 2009, the ROF supports the efforts of its partners to share hunting, target shooting and other outdoor traditions with youth, women and other participants while emphasizing safety, training and ethics. The ROF also upholds conservation principles through assisting partnership work on habitat enhancement, wildlife research and management projects.

“America’s National Forests host millions of visitors each year, many of them enjoying the incredible hunting, fishing and outdoor recreation opportunities provided by our public lands,” said Bill Possiel, National Forest Foundation president. “The Remington Outdoor Foundation is a natural partner for our efforts to perpetuate healthy National Forests and Grasslands, and we are extremely grateful for their partnership and support.”

Deschutes National Forest, Oregon


Photos this story by Colleen O

’Neill

We gaze ahead waiting for the next round of the bend or scan peripherally to anticipate motion; yet never look up at the world that exists just above our tunnel vision. Trees are one of the most fascinating aspects of nature; their twisted shapes are amazing, textures so deeply etched and contours simply stunning. Their skin offers an enticing path for the eyes to follow; intertwining in exquisite design with each offering splendidly unique intricacies that no human could ever replicate.

Spending time in nature is a very important part of my life and attempting to capture all that exists around me with my camera lens provides exhilaration at every turn. Walking within the forest I constantly find my gaze shifting up, along with my camera, and I am always amazed. If there is one object in nature that I find effortlessly and consistently provides instant awe, it is most certainly a tree. No matter how many times I photograph trees, there is never any pattern to their beauty—each is absolutely

unique. The deeply ingrained designs of their bark from root to tip are dazzling in form and provide never-ending delight for the camera lens and also for my soul.

Besides providing endless beauty in the forest, trees also serve a crucial role in the survival of all organisms on Earth; breath, warmth and nourishment. Their knowledge of our land is timeless; they have towered over us for ages and witnessed major events of our history. Astoundingly, for a select few, their massive girth and extensive

looKing up thRough my lens:A PHOTOGRAPHER’S TRIBUTE TO TREES

By Colleen O’Neill

TOP LEFT: Flaming Trunk; BOTTOM LEFT: Vine Connection; ABOVE: Twists and Turns

VOICES FROM THE FOREST



growth rings prove existence for thousands of years preceding. These ambassadors of nature remain anchored to their land sustaining life for those surrounding them while quietly observing as we execute our mistakes.

They stand firm with their weathered skin and green attire, while providing spectacular photographic opportunities from below. As I stand at the foot of their staggering heights, I suddenly view the world from a humbled perspective. These wooden inhabitants occupy a massive percentage of this entire planet, far more than the human population. And as I contemplate the simple beauty of this solitary tree in front of my camera lens, I realize the impact

they have on the world and also on my senses. Similar to the widening aperture of my camera lens, my own human optical lens widens as it attempts to focus on the natural beauty in the current frame of my existence.

As I stroll through the forest, I will tread along the same familiar path countless times, yet still on every walk I discover something new to capture with my camera. I recognize trees that I have photographed in the past, and if I simply walk to another side of that tree, I discover yet another interesting angle. There never seems to be a shortage of photographic material even on a simple walk through a wooded path. Trees exist in majestic places, such

as National Forests and National Parks, and add decoration to already stunning scenery, but I have discovered that I derive the most inspiration from very ordinary places. Perhaps the most simplistic forested beauty that surrounds my immediate living space strikes deeper within my soul because I connect more completely with it.

These familiar trees are rooted below my own feet and the path that I walk throughout my life. I can recognize them along the trail as I would old friends. They are always a constant in my life and I know they will be around the bend every time I walk this path. Each year as I capture their essence, every season displays a very different phase in their long lives and tells

ABOVE: Split Growth; TOP RIGHT: Bark Tower; BOTTOM RIGHT: Rays of Green



the important story of survival. Countless living beings depend on these powerful forested forces and in so many crucial ways. Simply gazing up at them I recognize not only their external beauty, but also appreciate their contributions on Earth and view them as another living being standing right beside my own beating heart.

Whether blanketed in lush cloaks of vibrant green or stripped naked with only their bare bones remaining, trees reveal their beauty throughout all seasons. The delicate green adornments of spring showcase their life-sustaining powers. The lush radiance covers their bones and surrounds the forest in a sea of green as far as the eye can see. Following inevitably are the deep, rich hues

of fall, which mark the crucial transition of the seasons and offer a last display of stunning beauty before colder and darker days.

Winter symbolizes a different form of beauty; pure and true because no vibrant green or rich autumnal hues are present to distract the eye and mind. Trees in winter are as stunning as ever when they display their bare bones. They are at their most vulnerable and splendid in this state when one can see the forest without all of the overgrown clutter and distraction of superficial beauty. These skeletons of the forest endure while all else struggles and retreats around them; they remain strong and present and remind us that the cycle will perpetuate.

The next time you find yourself walking through the forest; look up. Not many people embrace this view high above our limited ground floor. Whether a forest displays the skeletal forms of winter or the full canopies of spring, pointing my camera lens in an upward direction most certainly provides stunning opportunities along the curves of a tree branch. To most people, trees may appear as just another anchored fixture blending in with similar forms surrounding. But spending the time to truly capture these wooden creatures reveals the most exciting subject that my lens has ever focused upon. A wondrous world awaits a simple tilt of the head as you see the sky through a beautifully complicated and tangled web of trees.

about the authoRColleen O’Neill is a writer, photographer and painter. She has a passion for backpacking and exploring our public lands. Colleen spends all of her free time outdoors and possesses a deep respect and appreciation for nature and wildlife. You can view more of her work at: www.colleenoneill.wordpress.com.

ABOVE: Bark Beetle Art; RIGHT: Self Portrait (shadow on tree)


FOREST PERSPECTIVESPhoto by Leland J. Prater for the U

S Forest Service; iStockPhoto.com / D

avid Morgan

LOST AREAS OF WINTER FUNFebruary 4, 1940

Silver Valley Winter Sports Area

Huron-Manistee National Forest, Michigan

Two toboggans and riders start down the slide at Silver Valley

Winter Sports Area on Feb. 4, 1940. About 9 miles northwest of

East Tawas, Mich., on the Huron National Forest, the winter sports

area closed long ago and only hints of the ski and toboggan

runs remain today.

The Silver Valley Winter Sports Area was started in the late 1930s, constructed by the CCC. Prior to World War II, peak attendance was 50,000 visitors in a season.

Today, only hints of the once busy ski hill remain. Between 1975 and 2000, the National Ski Areas Association official statistics say the number of ski areas in the United States declined from 745 to 509. However, there were likely hundreds if not thousands more small ski hills across the United States that once operated but have now closed.

Most of the areas that have closed down were small “mom and pop” ski hills with a small number of runs and usually rope

tows or T-bars as lifts. Insurance costs, competition with expensive modern high-speed lifts, and snowmaking systems are some of the primary reasons for the closure of most of these ski areas.

These defunct ski areas are referred to as “lost ski areas.” Efforts have been made over the last decade to begin discovering and documenting these lost areas—some quite substantial, others just a small hill with a rope tow connected to the back of a rundown pickup truck. The New England Lost Ski Areas Project has documented 598 closed ski areas in the New England area alone. You can learn more about the project at www.nelsap.org.

Photo by Leland J. Prater

proudly supports the National Forest Foundation through our Campaign to Reforest America. In just two years, we’ve donated more than two million tree seedlings to the National Forest Foundation and to the Virginia Department of Forestry. This year, we have committed to donating another million trees toward national reforestation. We are pleased to offer eco-friendly items for composting, pest control, saving energy and building fires. Learn more about our Campaign to Reforest America and find all our products at plowandhearth.com.

Two Million Trees...And Counting!

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For just $35, you (or your gift recipient) will receive:

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Documents

Your National Forests- Winter/Spring 2011