Ywy8m.extreme.howto..Holiday.2013

Holiday Digital 2013www.extremehowto.com

PLUS:

The Enthusiast’s Guide to Home Improvement

Installing Granite Countertops | Understanding House Framing

CUSTOM BUILT-IN CLOSETSFROM STOCK CABINETS

CREATE YOUR OWN CONCRETE SCULPTURE

GIFTIDEAS

FOR THEDIY'ER

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CONTENTSH o l i d a y 2 0 1 3

F E A T U R E S

16 Master Suite MasterpieceCreate Custom Closets from Stock Cabinets

26 Understanding House Framing The Basics of Building a Home

40 Holiday Gift IdeasTools & Gadgets for the DIY’er

52 Rock SolidInstalling Granite Countertops

4 www.extremehowto.com

52

D E PA R T M E N T S

Q & A

Project NextConcrete Sculpture

Everything AutoTool Transport

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Questions About Home Building, Remodeling? Have Your OwnHow-To Tip? Visit our blog at blog.extremehowto.comand click on Ask Our Experts.

Gota?QA&Q:I’m planning to build a small patio area with landscape pavers. Should I seal the pavers?

A:Sealing your pavers is not absolutely necessary, but it is recommended. A sealed paver surface is mucheasier to clean, and may even prevent staining. Also, sealing will enhance and maintain brightly colored

pavers. Sealing your pavers will help prevent the growth of weeds in between your joints. You can also discour-age weeds by ensuring the joints are completely filled with sand to prevent the amount of weed seeds that fallbetween the pavers.

Q:My daughter and her husband just moved into their first house. They’ve got some work to do, and I thought a toolbox would make a great Christmas gift. I’d like to furnish it with some tools. Any

suggestions on what would make a good start-up kit for a do-it-yourselfer?

A:Start with safety glasses, work gloves, a hammer (16 oz.), ratchet/socket set, assorted screwdrivers or a driver with interchangeable bits (Phillips head, flat, etc.), needle-nose and Channellock pliers,

adjustable wrench, torpedo level, tape measure, snips, hex key set, combination square and utility knife. Thisshould get them started, and they can add more specialty tools as required. The list may sound expensive, buta lot of “combo kits” are available that contain most of these tools for a reasonable price. The drawback to thekits is that the case they come in typically doesn’t allow for adding tools. Most DIY’ers prefer to customize theirkits, so a nice, quality toolbox to accompany the tools should make a great gift. And if you’re feeling really generous, everybody needs a good drill/driver and circular saw.


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Questions About Home Building, Remodeling? Have Your OwnHow-To Tip? Visit our blog at blog.extremehowto.comand click on Ask Our Experts.

Gota?QA&


Q:I have a water stain on my hardwood floor from a leaky plant. Is there a way to remove this?

A:Try using a vibrating palm sander with progressively finer grits. Try 100-grit first, move to 150-grit, andso forth until you achieve the desired smoothness. After removing the dust you’ll need to match the

stain to the rest of floor. Use a bare piece of wood the same species as the flooring to test your stain. It mayhelp to mix and match stains to get the right look. You want to assess the stain while it is wet, not dry, becausethe wet stain will better reflect what the final finish will look like after it’s been coated with polyurethane.

Q:I would like to cover a block wall of my home to look like an old adobe. Do I need to cover the brickwith a mesh? And what kind of plaster would be best? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

A:You’re looking for stucco, not plaster. You might not need reinforcing mesh covering all the block, sinceit is rigid. Either way, you should add base and corner beads and a mesh flange along the wall edges.

First patch any cracks, remove protruding brick mortar and brush away surface debris. Use a masonry bondingagent. Apply a scratch coat about 3/8-in. thick over the brick face. Then scratch grooves in the base coat. Applya finish coat about 1/4-in. thick. EHT

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www.kaddies.com

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PROJECT NEXT

T.J. Neil is a concrete crafts-man who has taken his workto a new level of artistry.

When many people think of con-crete, they may envision a dull,lifeless sidewalk slab, but Neilsees the potential for a soaringeagle, a roaring bear, or even a65-ft. long dinosaur. Extreme How-To spoke with Neil about his foraysinto concrete sculpture, somebasic techniques, and where he’s headed today.

“The first statue I made was a wishing well for my father,”explains Neil. “Someone boughtthe well right off his lawn, so I thought there might be a few dollars in these concrete sculp-tures, and maybe I should sellthem myself.”

A friend of Neil’s, who owned

the Aqua Circus in Cape Cod,Florida, convinced him to create a concrete dolphin as a mascot.As he was building the dolphin, a local radio station covered thestory and referred to Neil as a“sculptor.” The term stuck. Thenext thing he knew, the dolphinwas featured on the front page of the newspaper, which sparked a great deal of interest in his concrete craft.

“These days, the power of theinternet has really exposed mywork to a lot of new people,” saysNeil, who owns a website exhibit-ing his work at www.tjneil.com. “Iget worldwide publicity, and thatotherwise would be impossible.” In fact, Neil has recently authoreda book, titled Making ConcreteSculpture, in which he shares his

techniques for creating concreteworks of art. The book is chock fullof in-progress photos of sculpturesranging from fishermen, alligators,whales, sharks, horses, panthers,elephants, dragons and more.

SCULPTING BASICSAccording to Neil, anyone can

become a concrete sculptor, aslong as they’re willing to practice,experiment and be creative. Theoverall design comes straight fromthe creator’s imagination, and adetailed sketch is the blueprintwhere Neil begins.

Of course, some basic engineer-ing skills do apply. The processbegins with an armature of rebarrods covered with galvanized lathwire. This serves as the skeletonof the structure. The wire mesh is secured to the rebar with blacktie wire. Before building, Neil cutshundreds of 8-inch pieces of blacktie wire and keeps them in a cof-fee can. Every 3 inches on thearmature, he bends the wires intoan S, hooks them through the lathand around the rods, and twiststhem tightly.

Neil leaves strategic openings inthe lath wire so he can add con-crete. The base of each structureis poured solid with 8 to 18 inchesof concrete, depending on its size.The larger the statue, the heavierthe base. The rebar is housed inthis concrete base, extendingupward to be bent into the appro-priate shape for the armature. Thissolid base is crucial for the strengthof the structure, which is especiallyimportant if shipping the finishedpiece.

Much of the upper portions of Neil’s statues are hollow, but

Rock Hard ArtworkCreating Concrete Sculpture

By Matt Weber


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even the hollow areas have 2 to 3inches of concrete over the lathwire. However, even in the upperportions, strategic load-bearingareas, such as the shoulder joints

of arms, may be solid concrete forextra structural integrity. When sculpting, Neil holds the

concrete material with a masonryhawk and applies it in successive

coats over the wire with a varietyof concrete trowels (point trowel,margin trowel, plastering trowel,etc.). As the coats begin to stiffen,each layer is scratched over theentire surface (Neil uses scrap lathwire to do this). This scratchingprocess roughens the surface sothe next coat of concrete has astrong bond with the coat beneathit. Neil also stresses the impor-tance of allowing each coat of concrete, applied about 3/4 inchper coat, to fully cure before thenext layer is applied.“Let each layer cure for seven

days,” says Neil. “Then put on

another coat and let that one curefor seven days, too. Then applyanother inch for detail and let thatcure. Do this and you will have avery strong concrete structure.”Neil notes that concrete canabsorb water up to 1-1/2 inchesbelow its surface. This is why thestatues require such thick coats ofappropriately cured concrete—toprotect the armature. If the interiorrebar is exposed to moisture it can

PROJECT NEXT


Shown here is an early stage ofthe concrete eagle’s armature.


rust, and when it rusts, it expands,which can in turn crack the sur-rounding concrete. This is also why Neil suggests sealing and/orpainting the sculptures with thehighest quality exterior latex paintyou can find.

“When painting, you first needto apply a base coat,” suggestsNeil. “I put on a coat of plainwhite or gray to serve as a primerso the next coats will have astrong bond. When painting underthe hot sun, you may need to thinthe paint a little with water so the paint has time to soak intothe concrete before it dries.” Neil mixes his paint right on theconcrete structure, blending thecolors for his preferred hue.

RECIPE FOR SUCCESSWhen it comes to the recipe

for concrete, Neil suggests usinglarge gravel in the base of thestructure to give it strength.Medium gravel is used for thecenter of the structure. Small pea gravel is used in structuralareas such as arms or legs.

For the non-structural areas,such as the finish coats, Neil usesa sand mix. He suggests coarsesand for the base coat, then medi-um-grade sand, followed with a

fine sand mix for the finish coat.Neil prefers to mix his own con-crete from sand, gravel andPortland cement. But for a novicesculptor, he suggests that bags of

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T.J. Neil applies concrete to hissculpture, “Freedom’s Flight.”


premixed concrete available at mosthome stores would be a good place to start.

WHAT’S NEXT?Soon after this interview, the EHT

hometown became the proud exhibitorof a Neil original. Our magazine is head-quartered in Birmingham, Alabama,home to University of Alabama atBirmingham. The local university’s mas-cot is “Blaze” of the UAB Blazers, whichis pictured on countless t-shirts andbaseballs caps as a fire-breathing drag-on. Neil was commissioned to constructthe dragon from concrete, which wasinstalled in front of the university arena as a new landmark.

“This dragon is about 10 feet tall andweighs three tons,” says Neil. “The drag-on breathes fire, so we built a smokemachine inside the statue to make themouth look like it’s smoldering.”


Neil at work on theBlazer dragon

PROJECT NEXT

EHT


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MASTERSUITEMASTERPIECE

By Mark Clement and Theresa Coleman

Enhance a bedroomby creating custom

built-in closets fromstock cabinets.

To convert this un-cared for bedroom into amaster suite, we had to junk all the horse-hair plaster, crumbling lath and decrepit

knob-and-tube wiring. We then stripped thestructural walls of the house back to theblock, installed new studs, updated electrical,insulation, HVAC chases, windows and dry-wall. Once back to a blank slate, we couldconnect all the dots and make it pretty.As shown in this article, we finished and

sanded the drywall, switched and pluggedthe roughed-in electrical, and ran nice,classic moldings. We also installed a wide-plank pine floor, painted and—the pieced’resistance of the entire project—usedstock cabinets to create two custombuilt-in closets for the previously stor-age-free space. They graciously containall the things typically stored in a bed-room, and smartly—not to mention

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affordably—solve a serious storagedilemma part-and-parcel to oldand/or under-detailed houses. Andit all ties together in a super-sweetpackage, faithful to the look anddetail of an old house. Here’s howwe did it.

DESIGNThis is a room upgrade that

relies heavily on the right designfor the space—both for functionand form—and here, necessity was the mother of beauty.

The 12-by-13-ft. room, whichwould be a master bedroom whenwe were done, had no closet.Thanks to old house designers,that is roughly two fewer closetsthan a modern couple needs. Thatwas the inspiration for the custombuilt-ins.

The core of the room would be two elegant and very cus-tomized storage systems that my co-remodeler Theresadesigned, using stock cabinetsfrom Thomasville cabinets. Usingjust about every page from theirextensive catalogue, we pulledtogether a totally detailed, func-tional system that stores every-thing from shoes to gym bags to dirty clothes and everything in between. And it’s all behindsweet raised-panel doors thatclose and hide just about anymess.

To make it all flow, we took acloset from an adjoining room, so one of the two built-in bankswould live inside the new space.

To add to the overall look andfeel, we spec’ed a nice, three-

piece crown, tall base molding,pine floors and just the right colorto tie it all together.

BANKS O’ BUILT-INSThe built-ins are three towers,

essentially, made with 24-in. deepkitchen cabinets (25 inches withthe doors) ganged on top of andnext to each other rising to 89-3/4inches tall.

The left and right towers havedrawer bases, an armoire as thecenter element and a hopperdrawer cabinet at the top for tuck-ing away things used less fre-quently (like your ski cap or smallset of bagpipes). The center towerswaps out the drawers for twoslide-out trash cans.

Now, I know you need a trashcan in a bedroom—but four ofthem!

“They’re the clothes hamper,Mark,” Theresa pointed out.

Sheeee-yaaa … like I neededthat explained to me.

Theresa really worked—withoutoverworking—the details. Inside



Find the highest spot in the floor where the cabinets will sit, then register your level line. The longer the level, the easier it is to get an accurate mark.

Find your plumb line next, then,if necessary, install a backer foryour filler piece. The filler/backergives the door enough room toswing and stay open.


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the drawers she used silverwareorganizers as valets to separate lit-tle things like watches, wallets,change, and so forth. Each drawerbase has toe-kick drawers whichare awesome, again, for lesserused things. And she even re-invented a wine storage rack asvertical shoe storage for flatshoes, scarves, and other thingsmore commonly found in a lady’scloset.

INSTALLATIONIf you know the carpenter’s

mantra of Plumb, Level andSquare, you’ll be well on your wayto installing the cabinet boxesright on the money. Careful lay-out—front-back and left-right—iscrucial. These cabinet towerscover a lot of space and being out of plumb or just a hair off alayout line can create gaps orother problems as you install.

Layout. Because we were work-ing in an old house, the floor was-n’t just out of level, it made acrumpled-up bath towel thrown

in a corner look straight. So theboxes would stand straight andtall, we struck a level line first.Plumb lines come next.

Shimming up. It’ll be good newsif all you have to do is tuck a fewshims here and there to keepyourself riding smooth on your lay-out lines. If you’re doing the oldhouse shuffle, however, be readywith full pieces of 1-by for the cab-inet bases to bear on, which iswhat we needed.

Studs. I like to locate the wallstuds and strike a line from floorto ceiling. This means that as Iinstall each element of the cabinet, Ican see the line clearly and don’t

have to re-measure to locate thestuds. It’s a time saver.

BUILDING THE TOWERSWe had to make a choice on

this project between running allthe base units across the spanfirst, or installing each unit as atower.Because, at least on this site,

the eye would register plumbbefore level, we chose getting theunits plumb as our over-archingcriteria. To make sure we were oncourse, we installed all the way up.On the wall-mounted unit, this



Again, layout, level and plumb are key—especially as you getstarted building the towers.Check the top of the cabinet tomake sure it’s level.

Pre-drill and countersink theface frame. Send the screwshome into the face frame—again, snug them without overdriving.

Pilot point, washer-head cabinetscrews draw the back of the cabi-net carcass to the wall, and thewide heads provide good bearing.Snug them, but don’t over-tighten.

An impact driver does the pre-drill/countersink. A cordless drill-driver drills the rest of the pilothole. Another impact drive sendsthe trim-drive screws home.



was no big whoop because weran flat along the wall. But in thebank of cabinets we let into thenew closet, we had to be doublysure we ran the face of the cabi-net bank straight between eachwall to make sure it lined up andwould seamlessly accept themolding valance above.

TOOLSThe good news is that you don’t

need every tool in your shop toinstall these cabinets. You canalmost do the whole thing with acirc saw, level and cordless drill.To make time, however, it helps tohave multiple tools.The face frames on the

Thomasville cabinets are solidmaple. However, when you installcabinets you fasten the faceframes together by pre-drillingand sinking trim-drive screws tohold them together, so there’s alot of pre-drilling and driving.Fastening to the wall is a little

easier; just use the Thomasville-provided pilot-point washer-headscrews.To get all this done without

switching bits a thousand times, Iused two impact drivers and acordless drill/driver to pre-drill,countersink, then drive screwswith some modicum of speed.

HARDWAREInstalling cabinet hardware

takes patience to get right—and getting it right is key to

a nicely trimmed package.My Stanley 7-in. combination

square—an invaluable tool to me—and tape measure helped me lay-out where each hole was locatedbefore I drilled them out. Thomasville provides segment-

ed screws that you can snap offwith side cutters or nail nippers toaccommodate the hardware youuse. Sometimes, however, thescrew length just doesn’t match—always happens, it seems—so Isimply counter-bore the back ofthe drawer with a paddle bit torecess the screw head.

THE REST OF THE MOLDINGAfter the cabinets were

installed, it was time to go back totrimming the place out. We start-ed, as you’re supposed to, with allthe vertical moldings—casing inthis case—then tied in the base.With door casing, I find it’s eas-

ier to lay out the door jamb with aBench Dog Trim-Loc. I use thebright orange marking gauge tostrike my reveal lines along thehead jamb and jamb legs. This

The wall-mounted cabinet gets afactory-finished, maple plywoodend cap. Finish nails hold ittight, but be certain to drivethem through the cabinet car-cass only—and not into thebody of the cabinet. Nails andclothes don’t mix.

A 7” combination square is anincredible layout gauge, and Iused it plenty when laying outthe hardware holes.

Here’s an old-timer’s trick: To keep a drill bit from wandering on animportant cut, pre-dimple the hole with a sharp scratch awl.


creates a crosshairs at the top ofthe door, which I use to measuremy pieces.

I then cut and pre-assemble thecasing assembly on a flat surface.Next, I apply the assembly on thedoor jamb before nailing both into the wall and into the jamb.This keeps the miters nice andtight. Dabbing them with a littlePhenoseal before putting themtogether is a belt-and-suspendersapproach.

Base is next. Like the mostmoldings, I dead-end left andcope right.

FLOORI tackled the floor sanding on

this project myself. I used the U-Sand vertical random orbitsander, which I rented from mylocal rental shop for the soft whitepine floors. It worked great. It wasclean, removed stock at a goodrate and left a primo finish.

I then finished the floor withfour coats of quick-dry, water-based urethane.

Last step for floors wasinstalling the coved shoe molding,which is a small, but appreciabledetail. I like it much better thanyour typical rounded-over shoemold.

PAINTA tight paint job is critical for

pulling together all the disparatedetails of a high-impact projectlike this. We selected Sherwin-Williams’ Duration low-VOC, low-odor paint. And because I was the painter on the project, I doublyappreciated the low-odor feature.

To keep the site clean and paintlines straight, we overpainted themoldings first, then cut in thewalls and ceiling to make the new master move-in ready.

The door was a real find. TheDouglas fir, five-panel door wasoriginal to the house (it had beenstashed in the attic), and insteadof painting it, we de-painted itusing an unbelievable paintremover called Back to NatureMulti-Strip Pro. This is a low-toxproduct, but it ate through layerafter layer of paint and varnish.

Once I scraped the muck off the door and it dried, I sanded itsmooth with 100-grit paper usingmy Festool 6-in. random orbitsander. I then took the door intothe shop and hit it with a high-gloss urethane. It came out luscious.

Matching the century-old hard-ware was a snap, though I don’texpect it to be that easy in otherparts of the country. Home Depothad replacement lock sets that



This is where there is still roomfor the tried-and-true screwdriver.

If you’re careful you can sethardware screws with a powerdriver.

Before/after


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were identical to what was on thedoor originally, although I sand-ed, primed and painted them.This changed the brass finish toa gloss black, which looks muchmore substantial.

The last step is for the home-owner to load their cabinets andappreciate their beautiful newmaster bedroom.

Editor’s Note: Visit Mark andTherea Clement atwww.MyFixItUpLife.com.



Part of the reason painting is somessy is that there’s nowhere for thepaint to go when you wipe your brushbefore applying. Take a scratch-awland pop about eight to 10 holes in therim of the can, and you’ll have anentirely new outlook.

We wanted a high-gloss finish onthe trim, so we used Sherwin-Williams white high-gloss paint. Low VOC’s are only available in flats and semis at this time, whichis what we used for the walls andceiling. And, forget a screwdriver foropening paint cans. Use a 5-in-1tool as a lever—much easier.

Some areas, like our radius drywall window returns, just aren’t roller friendly. We brushed them out.

I jigged up the door so I could apply paint stripper goop (Back to Nature Multi-Strip Pro) to both sides. I placed a few screws in the bottom trestle, resting

them between sawhorses. This enabled me to simplyrotate it over when I was finished painting one side.

EHT


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When viewing a framed house before the wall coverings are installed, the building oftenseems complicated and to some, a daunting

project. House framing actually consists of several separate “projects” assembled into one tocreate the finished home. Taken in that context, houseor building framing is not all that difficult. With today’sadvances in air tools, such as framing nailers, youdon’t even have to be an experienced hammerswinger to frame a house. It is a good idea, however,for the inexperienced to begin with a small, simpleconstruction, rather than a two story, complex design.A garage or garden shed is a good example. In mostinstances you will be constructing from building plans,

and that’s definitely the easiest for the inexperienced.Make sure you follow all specs and elevation drawings. The most common framing material is wood, but metal

framing is becoming more popular. Metal may be desired in some areas and may be a code regulationin other areas as well. Regardless of the type of construc-tion, make sure you check with local building authoritiesas to regulations pertaining to construction and framing,as well as to obtain any needed permits.

METHODSTwo methods are used in standard wood house

or “stick” framing—balloon or platform—and both haveadvantages and disadvantages. Balloon framing is

HOUSE FRAMINGBy Monte Burch

UNDERSTANDING

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sometimes used with two-storybuildings. In balloon framing thestuds extend as one, from the sillto the top plate of the secondstory. The second story floor joistsare supported by a ribbon boardset into the studs. This type of

construction is the most difficult,but does provide unobstructedopenings between the floors allow-ing for easy installation of utilitieswithout notching and cutting open-ings. Fire stops must, however, beinstalled at the second story floorlevel between the studs.

Platform framing can be usedfor either single or two-story and isthe easier and most commonmethod of construction. Fire stopsare automatically created with thistype of construction. Constructinga single-story is the easiest, a two-story or split level is harder.Platform framing is easier thanballoon framing because you canconstruct and erect the secondstory walls on the second storyfloors.

Either construction can be doneon a concrete slab or on a founda-tion. The slab acts as a floor; afoundation requires a floor to firstbe constructed. Then the walls areframed on the floor (or slab) andraised in place.

FROM THE FLOOR UPIf constructing on a foundation,

the first step is to construct a flooron the foundation. Sill plates areanchored to the foundation, thenthe floor joists are fastened to thesill plates and their ends boxed inwith joist headers. The headersand outside joists should fit flushwith the outside edges of the foun-dation. Metal hangers makeinstalling the joists easier thantoe-nailing them in place.


A building is basically framed in sections and the sections joined together.

Two types of construction are used, balloon and platform, with platform being the most common.

HOUSE FRAMINGUNDERSTANDING

Second top plate

Sole plate

Subfloor

Second top plate

Top plate

Stud

Top plate

Stud

Sole plate

1st floor platform

Subfloor

Foundation

2-Story Platform Balloon

Five stop

Ribbon

Subfloor

Joists

Fire stop

Stud

Sill

JoistsFoundation

Subfloor


In many instances of largerbuildings, or those with joistspans over 16 feet, a girder isinstalled to provide support forthe floor at these locations.Today’s girders are commonlymade of engineered wood. Thegirder should be supported bypiers or foundation and footings.With the floor framed in, decking,or a subfloor, is added. Decking is typically oriented-strand board(OSB), or 3/4-in. plywood sheath-ing. In the past solid wood 1xboards were applied on the diagonal.

WALL CONSTRUCTIONAfter the deck or floor has been

constructed, you’re ready to con-struct and erect the walls. Thewalls consist of sole plates nailedto the subflooring, or anchoredwith anchor bolts to the concreteslab. Studs are nailed to the soleplates and top plates are nailed to the studs.


Wall construction on a concrete slab is anchored to the slab with anchor bolts through the wall sole plate.

The most common construction is on a foundation. In thiscase the floor is first framed, anchored to the foundation,and covered with a subfloor.

First step is to lay the sole platefor slab construction, or sill platefor a foundation/floor, against theanchor bolts, mark their locationand bore the holes.

The walls are then constructed on the slab or subfloor.

2 x 10 joists & headers

Subfloor2 x 10 joists

2 x 6 sill plates

Concrete foundation

Anchor bolts

16”O.C.

Slab

Anchor boltsSole plate



Walls are actually constructed as one individual piece, or as sections in the case of long walls. Shown is a typical wall with a door and window opening framed in.

Lay out the door and windowopenings on both the sole andtop plate, as well as stud loca-tions, at the same time, using atape measure and carpenter’ssquare.

A layout stick was often used by the old-timers to lay out studlocations.


Actually, the walls are assem-bled in one piece, or in the case of long walls, in sections joinedtogether to create the length need-ed. If building on a slab, the firststep is to lay the sole plate on theslab and mark the locations of theanchor bolts. Bore these holes. Regardless of whether you are

building on a slab or foundation,the next step is to lay the soleplate and top plate side by side,and determine any door and win-dow locations, as per the plans oryour building design. You mustknow the rough-opening sizes ofany doors and windows. Using acarpenter’s square, mark theserough opening locations on both.The tongue of the square is 1-1/2-inches wide, the exact width ofkiln-dried 2x framing materials.Then mark the stud locations,again on both sole and top plate atthe same time. This measurementmay be on 16- or 24-in. centers,

Top plate

Door opening

2 x 6 headersCripple studs

Trimmerstuds

Cut & remove afterwall is errected

Studs on 16” centersCripple studs

Sole plate

Windowopening


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Headers over doors and windows may be 2x6’s with cripple studs above them or full width 2x10’s. Regardless, 3/8” plywood spacers are used to create a header width to match the stud width.

Lay the bracing in place andmark on the wall studs. Then saw each side of the cut-out.



depending on building design orlocal codes. Once all measurements have

been marked on both sole andtop plate, lay them on edge on thesubfloor or concrete slab, theproper distance apart of the studlengths. If you use precut studsyou can save money and time.Fasten the studs between theplates, positioning their ends in the previously markedlocations. Once the studs are in place,

frame in the door and windowopenings, and then add the head-ers. Headers may be constructedfull width by using 2x10’s, or theymay be created by using 2x6’s fill-ing in above them with cripplestuds. Traditional headers are cre-ated by nailing 3/8-in. plywoodspacers between the headerboards to create the same thick-ness in the header as the 3-1/2-in. width of the studs. The head-ers are supported by trimmerstuds to create doubled studs inthe openings. Cripple studs arefastened between the trimmersbeneath the door and windowopenings, and spaced to matchthe other studs on the same 16-or 24-in. centers. A framing air nailer can save

time if you have power to the site.If there is no power you can use acordless model such as thePaslode. Several years ago mydaughter helped frame a buildingand she had never “swung a ham-mer.” Using an air framing nailer,she had no problems, and wecompleted the building in a shorttime.

SQUARING THE FRAMEIn some instances walls are

constructed without additionalbracing, using plywood or OSBsheathing at the corners to braceand square the wall section. And

Bracing of some sort is commonly used. The type and amount dependson code rules and building design. One method is to inlet 1 x 4 wind orhurricane bracing into the studs. Measure from corner to corner of theconstructed wall, then measure opposite corners and make sure thewall is square.

Complete the cut-out with a chisel.

3/8” plywood spacers2 x 10’s for full width headers


in some cases the sheathing isapplied to the wall frame beforeerecting the wall. In either case the wall section is first squared bymeasuring diagonally from cornerto corner, then from opposite cor-ner to corner and shifting the wallsection to create an equal meas-urement and a squared wall. Alarge wooden 90-degree trianglecan also be used. A temporarybrace is then installed to hold thewall square.

In many instances hurricanebracing is added to the walls. Thisconsists of purchased metal stripsor 1x4’s set diagonally across thewall and cut into the outside edgesof the 2x4’s. With sole plate andtop plate nailed into the studs,again use a tape measure tomeasure diagonally from corner to corner and square up the wall.Temporarily tack the hurricanebracing in place and mark the cutlocations. Use a saw to cut thenotches, and then remove materialbetween the saw marks with achisel. Anchor the bracing in placewith two 8d nails at each stud, andthen cut the ends of the bracingoff flush with the plate edges.(Make sure you check with localcodes on bracing regulations inyour area.)

RAISING THE WALLSErecting a wall is fairly easy, but

even small walls are best erectedby at least two people. Erecting ona subfloor is easier than on a slab.Simply slide the wall close to theedge at its location and tilt it up. I like to use temporary 2x4 stopblocks fastened to the outsideedges of the joists and headers tokeep the wall from sliding off asyou lift it up. If installing the wallon a concrete slab, slide it up tothe anchor bolts, then you willhave to lift the wall up and positionit down on the anchor bolts. Again,


With the wall constructed, tilt it up in place. This takes two peopleon even a small wall.

Drive 2 x 4 stakes into the ground and brace the wall in place,making sure it is braced plumb. Construct the opposite side wall,erect and brace it in place.


this is at least a two-personchore, even for a short wall.

With the wall up in position,drive 2x4 stakes in the groundand provide temporary supportsanchored to the wall studs andstakes. Duplex nails used for con-structing foundations are good forthis step, as they can more easilybe pulled later. Make sure thewall is plumb and correctly inposition before anchoring thebracing. If placed on a slab, fas-ten the sole plate in place withwashers and nuts over the soleplate and on the anchor bolts. Ifon a foundation/floor, nail thesole plate down on the subfloorand into the floor joists and head-ers. If the wall is to be built insections, build the next section,erect it, brace in place and fastento the previously erected wall.Note the wall joints are always on a stud.

Construct, erect and brace the

opposite wall in place in the samemanner. Then construct the wallthat fits between the two standingwalls. This wall is measured to fitbetween the previously erectedwalls, measuring at the bottom.Construct and erect the opposite-end wall in the same manner. Onthese walls, start with studs oneach end, and then measure forthe “on-center” studs, adding the2x4 or 2x6 measurement of thestuds on the previously erectedwalls. As with the other walls,openings are framed in the samemanner and bracing applied. Inany case these walls are erectedbetween the two adjoining walls,plumbed and then anchored tothe outside studs on the twoadjoining walls. Brace the centersection to keep it from bowing outor inward.


If long walls are to be constructed in sections, make the joint on a stud.

Construct the end walls to fit betweenthe side walls, erect and brace them.

After making sure all corners are plumb,fasten the end-wall end studs to theside-wall end studs.


Wall section Top plate

Top plate

Stud Stud

Stud


AgriCoverFP_Layout 1 12/6/13 4:58 PM Page 35

If the building is not rectangularor square, but has extensions,construct these walls, joining atthe corners, again basically creat-ing two “sides” and then erectingthe ends to join the opposite wallstogether. The tops of the walls atcorners and wall section joints arejoined by nailing a second top

plate down over the top plate,crossing over all joints to tie themsecurely together. This second topplate creates the final wall heightof a standard 8-ft. wall.Using a handsaw, cut and

remove the section of sole plateat the bottom of each door open-ing. Corner blocking is added at

corners to provide a square cor-ner for installation of interior wallcoverings. This may be done inseveral ways, as shown in the dia-grams. Interior walls are framed,erected and anchored in place inthe same way, again using a sec-ond top plate to tie them togetherand to the exterior walls. Corner


Further anchor all joints with a second top plate.


Cut and remove the sole plate between door openings.

Second top plates

Interior wall

Second top plate

Exterior wall


blocking is needed at each interiorwall corner to provide for fasteninginterior wall coverings. After erec-tion of the walls, you’re ready toinstall ceiling joists on top of thewalls. If constructing a secondstory platform-style, you simplyrepeat the entire process. Againconstructing a floor on top of thewalls, then constructing and erect-ing the second-story walls.

FRAMING DETAILSFraming details added during

wall construction will make it easierto finish off a building. For instanceyou can add wall backing to anytub and faucet inlet areas, as wellas wall-hung appliance locations.This will make it easier to install allof these and is easier to do duringwall construction than after thewalls have been erected. You canalso add blocking to help supporttubs. Some builders fasten in addi-tional short blocking at each cornernear the floor to provide better sup-port for nailing baseboards in


Interior walls joining exterior or other interior walls also need corner blocking.

Corner blocking is needed to create corners for interior wall coverings.

StudBlocking

Exterior wall

Interior wall

2 x 4 blocks

Side wall

End wall

Build side wallin this manner

End wall


FAST, CLEANCORDLESSFRAMING


Framing details can make it easier to finishoff the building. Tub supports can supportthe edges of tubs.

Short corner blocks at each cornermake it easier to install baseboards.

2 x 4 blocks

Corner

Short2 x 4’s


Paslode’s model CF325Li isthe most advanced fuel-pow-ered cordless framing nailerwith a Lithium-ion battery. TheCF325Li drives 50 percentmore nails per charge (up to6,000) and holds a charge fivetimes longer than the Ni-Cadbattery. It charges in just onehour, and features a two-minute quick charge that willdrive up to 200 nails when youreally need to complete a proj-ect. It weighs less than the Ni-Cad version and is better bal-anced to reduce arm fatigue.It also includes a new depth-of-drive feature that quicklyadjusts on the fly. Paslode isnow offering universallyaccepted Spare Framing Fuelin single packs. The new SpareFraming Fuel pack includesone fuel cell and two twist-off/twist-on adapters, so thesame fuel can be used in allPaslode framing nailers.

place. This allows you to nail thebaseboards further back from their ends and prevent splitting out the ends. Bridging can beinstalled in the floor between jointsduring construction to create a bet-ter quality and “less squeaky” floor.

Framing a building doesn’t haveto be daunting if you take it onestep at a time, follow plans andregulations and start simple. EHT


SafeWorldFP_Layout 1 12/6/13 5:03 PM Page 39

This holiday season, give a gift that keeps on giving—one that canbe used on many home projects yet to come. Stuff your stockingswith paint brushes, pliers and orbital sanders. Don't disappoint

your handy husband with another piano key necktie, when he'd ratherhave new Forstner bits. Don't give your DIY wife a new frying pan unlessyou're wearing a helmet. She'd rather have a Powerfile. The EHT staffoffers a handful of gift ideas for the do-it-yourselfer in your life. Fromclamps and cargo racks to socket sets and shop vacs, you’re sure tofind a good fit.


HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE

HolidayGiftGuideEDIT_Layout 1 12/6/13 4:52 PM Page 40

WagnerFP_Layout 1 12/6/13 5:06 PM Page 41


BESSEY RAPID ACTIONCLAMPS

The Rapid Action clamp fromBessey offers strength and speedto help you get your project donefaster. Rapid Action clamps offervery quick setup times, parallel"no-twist" clamping, robust con-tact surfaces and a heavy-dutyrail. The double spindle mecha-nism means that the clampingbolt will move twice as far perhandle turn as a normal ACMEthreaded spindle. The clampingbolt and the pressure plate aremanufactured from a single piecewith no seams for debris to enter.The clamping bolt is guided firmlyin the barrel for direct "no-twist"clamping to prevent parts fromshifting. As greater force isapplied when clamping, the more the set-screw engages with serrations on the rail toavoiding clamp slippage. Six sizes are currently available with12- to 36-in. clamping capacity.Visit www.besseytools.com.

CHEETAH II ASHVACThe Cheetah II AshVac is the

safe, convenient way to keep your

stove or fireplace clean. Unlikeordinary home vacuums, theCheetah II was engineered specifi-cally to capture warm to cold ash,keeping dust at bay and your fam-ily safe. Enjoy dust-free and mess-free cleaning. The unit offers last-ing suction and performance witha fire-resistant design. Buy for theholidays and get a free Mini AshVacTool Kit with your purchase. Visitwww.lovelessash.com/holiday.

BLACK & DECKERPOWERFILE

Black & Decker's new 1/2-in.Powerfile PF260 precision beltsander features a narrow beltdesign that allows sanding in tightspaces, ideal for sanding ceramictile for detailed cuts. Use it toremove rust or paint or to sharpenblades. It includes a 2.6-ampmotor and integrated dust collec-tion for use in wood applications.Visit www.blackanddecker.com.

WOOSTER CHINEX FTPSHORTCUT BRUSH

Paint and reuse, paint andreuse, paint and reuse ... TheWooster Chinex FTP Shortcutbrush will feel right at home inDad’s toolbox. Chinex is known asone of the most durable and easy-to-clean paintbrush filaments,lasting seven times longer thannatural bristle. It pushes paint far-ther on the surface for better cov-erage, and the soft tips effortless-ly create a smooth, professionalfinish. Wooster’s Shortcut stylepairs a full-size brush head with a compact Shergrip handle thatmakes painting easier on the wall-to-ceiling line, window frames,moldings, furniture and more.Shergrip is a soft elastomericmaterial with a rubber-like feel. Itconforms to the touch, offeringincreased comfort and control.Because of this, Shortcut brushes


are a favorite of painters who suffer from arthritis or carpel tunnel syndrome. Versatility andprofessional finish quality makethe Wooster Chinex FTP Shortcutthe perfect all-in-one paintbrushfor Dad this holiday season. Visitwww.woosterbrush.com.

SIDEJOB CARGO RACKFor the construction pro in your

life, the SideJob rack is an innova-tive way to haul building materialson the side of a work vehicle,without taking up valuable interiorspace. Installation is fast andeasy and requires no tools. Theuser places the SideJob Rack overtheir ladder rack posts, hooks thecam strap (provided) to a securelocation under the vehicle, and

tightens it down. The rack is thenready to load with materials andsecures with ratchet straps. Thevehicle side becomes a functionalworkspace that carries up to 8sheets of 1/2-in. drywall, 9 sheetsof 1/2-in. plywood or 32 2x4's(per rack). Visit sidejobracks.com.

TG TOOLS KIK FORSTNER BITSForstner bits are the best

choice for drilling precise, flat-bot-tomed holes in wood. The radialcutting edges shear wood fibers

at the edge and bottom of thehole, creating a smooth bore with an exact diameter. The KikForstner bits from TG Tools actual-ly have nine cutting edges, whichpermit cutting curved paths, chan-nels, routing and milling in woodand plastics. They can cut on theedge of a block of wood to createchannels, and can also be used to create overlapping holes. TheKik bits also come in a nice, dovetailed wooden box to pro-tect the cutting edges. Visit mytgtools.com/kik.



SENCO PC1010NSenco has made the latest

version of its PC1010 trim com-pressor more powerful and easi-er to use, without sacrificing itsultra-quiet operation and light-weight, compact design.Upgrades to the unit include anincreased operating pressure of135 max PSI, (compared to theoriginal unit’s 125 max PSI), andthe addition of an integrated con-trol panel and roll cage to protectvital operating components.Measuring 14 in. long, 12-1/4-in.high, and weighing just 21 lbs.,the PC1010N is easy to transportand store. At 68 dBA, it isextremely quiet, making it idealfor renovation and home-improvement projects, hobbiesand crafts. The 0.5-horsepowerrunning induction motor pro-duces 0.7 SCFM at 90 PSI, pro-viding ample air power to run fin-ish nailers, staplers and micropinners without the motor andpump constantly kicking on torefill the tank. With highly visiblegauges, easier coupler access,non-skid rubber feet and a com-fortable grip handle, thePC1010N is an excellent gift forthe hobby woodworker or profes-sional carpenter. Visitwww.senco.com.

WET+DRY DUSTLESSVACThis Christmas, get Dad the

only wet/dry vac that allows youto go from wet to dry withoutswitching filters. The Wet+DryDustlessVac is a great way toclean up DIY projects and tokeep the job free of dust cloudsand mess. The patented filtersystem provides three layers offiltration designed to captureextra fine dust. The powerful23,000-RPM, 11.5-amp electricmotor operates quietly and deliv-ers 126.39-CFM performancewith a 16-gallon capacity. Save$50 off MSRP + free shippingthrough December 31st at homedepot.com. Visit www.dustlesstools.com/wetdry.

POWRAMID POWERCENTER AND SURGEPROTECTORTypical surge protectors con-

tinue to supply power even after they no longer are provid-ing surge protection, exposingconnected devices to potentialdamage from a power surge.With its Power Stop technology,the Powramid automaticallystops conducting power once the absorption has reachedcapacity. The Powramid providesadvanced 1080 Joules of surgeprotection and features patentedX3 MOV technology for maximum

safety to all connected devices.Its six adapter-friendly outlets arepositioned to allow unobstructeduse of even large transformerpower plugs. The PowramidSurge Protector is available inblack or white and features a 4-ft. grounded power cord. Visitwww.accellcables.com.

RHINO PACK-N-STACKFIREWOOD BRACKETS Chopping wood for the winter?

The Rhino Pack-n-Stack FirewoodRack Brackets are easy toassemble and include four brackets and all hardware. Justadd any length of 2x4 lumber to construct a sturdy, beautifulfirewood rack. Available fromCharmaster, the racks are easyto stack, cover and clean. Theyfeature heavy-duty steel con-struction with brackets that



SlidingShelfDepotFP_Layout 1 12/6/13 5:05 PM Page 45


weigh 30 lbs. and come with a20-year warranty. The Pack-n-Stack Brackets work great with15- to 30-in. long firewood. Learnmore at www.charmaster.com.

MIRKA CEROS ORBITAL SANDER

Here’s a great gift idea for serious woodworkers. The MirkaCeros electric orbital sander is arobust tool that has an excellentpower-to-weight ratio with a

low-profile design for enhancedcontrol. The seven variablespeeds range from 4,000 to10,000 RPM. Available fromWoodworker's Hardware, this system designed for 5-in. discscomes with everything you needfor years of efficient, quiet anduser-friendly sanding. Visitwww.wwhardware.com.

WAGNER INTRODUCESTHE FLEXIO 590 SPRAYER

The FLEXiO 590 Sprayer is anindoor/outdoor hand-held sprayerfor all projects. It combines theiSpray nozzle, detail finish nozzleand the X-Boost turbine to providethe most flexible and powerfulpainting solution offered. The X-Boost turbine delivers 3X morepower (at 65,000 RPM’s) to spraymost coatings with maximum con-trol, full coverage and low over-spray. Not only is it more powerful,it is also 50 percent quieter and20 percent lighter than traditionalairless sprayers. The iSpray nozzlesprays un-thinned residentialpaints for broad surfaces bothindoors and out. The detail finishnozzle is ideal for small projectsand fine finishing. The FLEXiO590 Sprayer produces a slightlystippled, roller-like finish, perfectfor interior walls. Edges, corners

and broad interior surfaces cannow be sprayed faster for bettercoverage, and with some basicmasking, you're spared thetedious efforts of a brush, savingtime for other projects. Learnmore at www.wagnerflexio.com.

PIVOTJET PROVirtually every home has a

hose, and millions more havepressure washers for heavy-dutycleaning. But for dozens ofcleanup jobs around the house, something in-between would be a much better choice.

That’s where the Hyde PivotJetPro comes in. The PivotJet Pro isan innovative spray wand thatattaches directly to your gardenhose to handle virtually any typeof outdoor cleaning job. Not onlydoes it add extra reach and anadjustable spray pattern, it alsofeatures a patented nozzle thatpivots up to 135 degrees and abuilt-in soap reservoir. Visitwww.hydetools.com.



HYDE 14-IN-1 MUTLI-TOOLThe 14-in-1 Multi-Tool from

Hyde is the ultimate junk drawertool. It scrapes paint, spreadscompound, cleans rollers, removesputty, opens cracks, sets nails, scrapes contours, scrapes convex surfaces, opens cans and bottles and pullsnails. It also includes four different screw-driver bits that are securely stored in a pull-out drawer in the handle, and inserts into the handle end for quick, easy use. Complete with 3-in. stiff scraping blade, this is a very versatile tool for a holiday gift. Visit www.hydetools.com.

CHANNELLOCK E SERIES PLIERSThe Channellock E Series is a

new line of combination, long-nose and diagonal cutting plierswith an entirely new, sleekerdesign than the manufacturer’straditional pliers. Each of the 18 new pliers in the E Series lineis manufactured with XtremeLeverage Technology (XLT).Exclusive to Channellock, XLTpositions the plier rivet closer to

the plier head so that consider-ably less force is required to

make clean, accuratecuts. Additionally,

each E Series

plier features knife-and-anvil cutting edges to ensure propercutting edge alignment and clean cuts; cross-hatched jaws for improved grip; laser heat-treated cutting edges for extend-ed durability; and a choice ofChannellock Blue comfort grips or Code Blue grips for secure and comfortable gripping power.Visit www.channellock.com.

MAKITA IMPACT GOLDSOCKET SET & ADAPTERMakita's new 3/8-in. square-

drive socket set can equip yourimpact driver to function like animpact wrench. The sockets aremachined from heat-treated alloysteel for heavy-duty torque, includ-ing fastening applications by con-tractors and automotive techni-cians, with a black oxide finish

for longer socket life. The 9-pieceset includes an Impact Gold 3/8-in. socket adapter, which ismachined from high-quality steelengineered for use with impactdrivers, and tilts up to 15 degreesfor work in tight areas. Whereascontractors usually rely on two-piece U-Joint sets, the ImpactGold offers a single adapter forsockets that delivers a solution

for fastening metal frames, auto-motive components and more.Visit www.makitatools.com.

O’KEEFFE’S WORKINGHANDS HAND CREAMCold weather can be tough on

skin, particularly hands. Adecrease in humidity paired withharsh temperatures can makeskin dry and cracked. These con-ditions may not make you feel like celebrating. We all knowsomeone who suffers from thepainful skin conditions that cold

weather can bring, but there’s asolution that really works and itmakes a great stocking stuffer.O’Keeffe’s Working Hands HandCream is an odorless, non-greasy,hypoallergenic formula guaran-teed to relieve cracks and splits.The formula contains a high concentration of glycerin, whichdraws moisture into skin andallows it to restore itself. Userswill see the results in days. Givethe gift of O’Keeffe’s and you'll be giving the gift of relief. Visitwww.okeeffescompany.com.

RACOR BIKE LIFTThe Racor Bike Lift, Model

PBH-1R, is the perfect way tostore a bicycle overhead and free up extra garage space. The Bike Lift uses a rope and pulley system that is mounted to the ceiling. Raise and lower a50-pound bike up to 12 feet by



simply latching the hooks to theseat and handlebars and pullingthe rope. When you’re ready toride, unlock the rope and lowerthe bike, no ladders needed. The Bike Lift pulleys do most ofthe work, making a 50-pound bike feel like it’s only about 12pounds: a 4:1 mechanical advan-tage. A unique locking mechanismholds the rope securely in place to prevent accidental release.Some assembly is required; it installs into ceiling joists.Suggested retail price is $25. Visitwww.racorstoragesolutions.com.

GLADIATOR BAMBOOWORKBENCHEvery home deserves a

respectable workspace. TheGladiator bamboo top adjust-able-height workbench makes astylish statement while providing a durable, flexible work surfacefor woodworking, gardening oreveryday use. Besides being oneof nature’s hardest materials,bamboo also is a sustainable,fast-growing resource. It makes for a solid and elegant design with a bamboo surface that’ssmooth and easy to clean. (For

the less “extreme” dad, it’s also available with a maple top.) Fifteen adjustable heightsmake for a dramatically versa-tile and flexible work surface.Available in 4-, 6- and 8-ft. widths with weight capacities up to 3,000 lbs., the workbenchcan handle almost any project.Find it at Lowe’s, Sears andwww.GladiatorGarageworks.comfor $499-$599.

X-ACTO’S DIY KNIFE SETA great gift idea for hobbyists

and do-it-yourselfers. The X-ACTODIY set includes several of thetools that are needed for most do-it-yourself projects around thehome. Stored in a handsomehardwood chest, the DIY tool kitincludes: #2 knife with #2 blade;floor covering knife with blade;utility saw blade; wallpaperblades; large scraping blades;acrylic blade and #26 blade. Visit www.xacto.com.

CANGUN1SafeWorld Int’l. offers the

CanGun1 premium spray can tool that features the world’s first FullGrip trigger with a 2.5:1 leverage advantage. TheCanGun1 makes spraying the contents of virtually all standardspray cans of paint, lubricant,adhesives, etc. considerably easier, while providing profession-al results every time. The patent-ed pistol-grip accessory easilysnaps onto standard aerosolspray cans, transforming theminto professional-style spray gunswith unprecedented control forhours of effortless, pain-freespraying. CanGun1’s exclusiveergonomist-tested and arthritis-friendly design also makes it suitable for use while wearing


gloves. The reusable CanGun1 is made in the USA with 80-per-cent recycled non-toxic plastic and zero-waste, space-optimized,recyclable packaging. Visitwww.cangun1.com.

ELMER’S PROBONDADVANCED

Elmer’s new ProBond Advancedis Elmer’s strongest and safestmulti-surface glue yet. Thereis none of the foamy mess asso-ciated with polyurethane glues, and it cleans easily with water.ProBond Advaned is 100-percentweatherproof for indoor and outdoor applications. It works on multiple sub-strates, including wood, concrete, metal, glass, ceramics and more. The glue is non-toxic, won’t stain hands and has a longer shelf life than polyurethane glue. Visit www.elmers.com.

RYOBI RY08420 2-CYCLEBACKPACK BLOWER

This 2-cycle Backpack Blower is Ryobi’s most powerful blowerever. With an extra-large 42 ccengine, it is designed to handlethe toughest cleaning jobs. Theunique engine mounting is engi-neered to deliver maximum airflow at all times, and the adjust-able, contoured harness providesultimate comfort. The blower tube

construction includes a variablespeed trigger and cruise controlfor easy command, and the anglednozzle points naturally downward—reducing effort and maximizingclearing power. This backpackblower is sturdy, but light, at just18 lbs. Ryobi backs its productswith a three-year warranty. Visitwww.ryobi.com.

OVERHEAD DOOREMERGENCY BATTERYBACK-UP

Overhead Door Corporation is adding assurance and relia-bility with the Battery Back-up, a product that provides home-owners with reliable garage dooroperation during severe weather,thunderstorms and blackouts.Overhead Door’s Battery Back-up,powered by Interstate Batteries,provides reliable garage door oper-ation in the event of electricity outages. It is compatible withOverhead Door’s next generationof garage door openers, theDestiny and Odyssey. The Battery

Back-up accessory enables anopener to operate the garage doorat 3.5 inches per second, and, inthe event of an extended loss ofelectricity, the unit will run up to50 cycles in a 24-hour period afterinitial power outage. With severalmounting options available, thisaccessory is designed to be unob-trusive. It’s charged and poweredvia a connector cable runningbetween the opener and the unit,which means there is no need forit to be plugged into an outlet. TheBattery Back-up can be easilyinstalled by the homeowner. Theunit is equipped with an 8-amp,sealed lead-acid Interstate battery(SLA) that reaches full charge with-in 48 hours. Front-facing LEDsindicate charge status. Visitwww.overheaddoor.com.

THE GUTSTERGive your favorite home enthu-

siast the power of destruction.The Gutster demolition bar has been redesigned with animproved round steel handleand a solid cast head withextended neck, providinggreater lifting and breakingpower. More than a wreckingbar, the Gutster Demo-Bar is a complete demolitionsolution. The innovative

Gutster design starts atthe uniquely designed

prying head. Split



forks provide greater stability forheavier loads. The spacing strad-dles joints and studs for maximumleverage. Sharp points pierce thetoughest materials effortlessly.Angled lift plates help ease the bar under materials to allow forfaster prying. Conveniently builtinto the back of the head is amulti-nail puller. The angled bar is engineered to provide the most prying power with the leastamount of stress and strain.Choose from three sizes with 40-, 48-, and 60-in. handles. Visit www.thegutster.com.

RYOBI STRAIGHT SHAFT 2-CYCLE TRIMMER

This 18-in., 26-cc Gas Straight-Shaft Trimmer features a 60-in. straight shaft for extended reach. Because of its attachment capability, the Ryobi gas trimmer can be converted to more than eight tools (attachments sold separately). It offers the ReelEasy bump-feed string head for fast and easy reload-ing and a dual-spool fixed line insert. The 26-cc gas engine is CARB compliant. It comes with a reliable 2-cycle engine with a Zipstart car-buretor for easy starting, and offers 18-in. cutting width with a .095-in. dual line. The ExpandIt power head is universally compatible with outdoor toolattachments across mulitplebrands. Visit www.ryobi.com.

GORILLA CLEAR REPAIR TAPE

Family gatherings and holidayfestivities often lead to trickyrepairs around the house. Avoidthe stress that the season canbring and give Gorilla Clear RepairTape, the ideal gift for almost anyrepair. Featuring the strength ofGorilla Tape in a weatherproof, airtight, crystal clear tape, GorillaClear Repair Tape is the perfectstocking-sized gift. Fix, patch, seal,hold and protect almost any sur-face, with a crystal clear appear-ance for a perfect fix every time.Gorilla Clear Repair Tape is versa-tile for projects both indoors andout, and won’t yellow outdoors.From hanging holiday lights to fix-ing decorations, Gorilla has youcovered. No other tape offers theclarity, strength and durability ofGorilla Clear Repair Tape. Visit www.gorillatough.com.

TOOL KADDIESThe rolling Kaddies toolboxes

are manufactured in the USA withdurable double-wall polyethyleneconstruction that will never rust,flake, peel, chip or corrode likemetal boxes. Tool Kaddies can be loaded with job-specific tools,parts or supplies, and rolled right to the job, thus eliminating

unnecessary trips back to thegarage, truck or tool crib. Availablecompletely assembled in a varietyof colors, each Kaddie is lockable for security and very water-resist-ant. They're also easy to modify for the user's needs. Visit www.kaddies.com.

THE PERFECT PASS TROWEL

The Perfect Pass Trowel, devel-oped by Epiphany Laboratoriesand marketed through Warner ToolProducts, is a new tool that prom-ises to eliminate the mess andguesswork in drywall finishing. JayMeyerl, the inventor of the PerfectPass Trowel, created the patenteddesign as a solution to one of hisown long-time woes as a buildingcontractor. The innovative, notcheddesign of the trowel makes it sim-ple for anyone, from amateur toexpert, to get perfect and consis-tent drywall finishing results in 3 simple steps. Finally, drywall finishing is as easy as 1-2-3, andwithout the need for sanding orthe accompanying mess. The toolis available at over 2000 retaillocations in the US, includingLowes locations throughout

North America. Visit www.warnertool.com.



BIG GREEN EGGThe Big Green Egg is one of the

most versatile outdoor cookingproducts on the market. No smok-er performs more efficiently thana Big Green Egg. Add sumptuousflavors with aromatic chips andwood chunks. For grilling, it searssteaks, burgers and seafood witha flavor-packed crust unmatchedby other grills. High temperature “steak house” grilling is quick and delicious. For “low and slow” cooking theinsulating ceramics of the Eggallow for precise temperature control even at low heat. The Egg will bake bread, casseroles,pizzas and pies better than yourkitchen oven. When roasting, theEgg retains heat and moisture sothat foods don’t dry out. Poultry,beef and vegetables are naturallytastier because the juices and flavors stay locked inside. Visitwww.biggreenegg.com.

STAR DRIVE WOOD SCREWASSORTMENT KITS

Perfect for woodworkers, con-tractors and weekend warriors,these economical and compactassortment kits from ScrewProducts, Inc. are the perfectaccessory for your home, garageor workshop (they also make

wonderful gifts!). Fully loaded, these take-anywhere kits are easy to carry, slim enoughto fit just about any place, and are availablein several varieties for different purposes.The kits feature an assortment of Star DriveScrews in a specially priced package andinclude an adjustable organizer, quick-release magnetic bit holder, and “free” drivebits. Fasteners are available in CompositeDeck Screw, Trim & Finish Head, Bronze StarExterior, Construction Lag/Cabinet Screw,Gold Star Interior, Cabinet / Finish, StainlessSteel and Trim Head versions. Order online atscrewsolutions.com and enter coupon codeehtbits for a free Bit Set & Holder.


EHT



SOLIDBy Larry Walton

ROCK

GraniteFeatureEDIT_Layout 1 12/6/13 4:49 PM Page 52


Not many years ago we were marveling atmarble vanity and granite kitchen counter-tops in those put-on-the-booties tour hous-

es. Today the availability of quarried, dimension-al stone has brought new meaning to hard sur-faces in many more homes.

Although granite is tougher than marble,which is not common in American kitchens, itoccurs naturally and ranges in hardness. Most

can still be scratched by knives and otherkitchen utensils. Also, granite is porous andmust be sealed to minimize staining and to keep it from becoming a bacteria-growing science experiment.

The big custom counter fabricators havestockpiles of quarried rock slabs, which theyfashion with laser templates and computer-guided milling machines. Obviously you can’t

Installing Granite Countertops


just whip out your woodworkingtools and cut a chunk of rock foryour next countertop, but there aresome options available.

“You can buy $20,000 in toolsto be set up like a caveman,”according to one of my friends in the business. But he doesn’tlike to talk about the pre-cut andedged counters available, which is probably what you would installin your home.

I received a $6,200 bid for acustom installed countertop in ourkitchen using mid-range stone. I canbuy enough pre-bullnosed rock herein town for about $2,500, whichleaves about $3,700 for tools andlabor. However, the finished productdepends a lot on kitchen design.Seam locations and limitations on shapes and sizes may dictatewhether or not the counters shouldbe custom-fabricated and installed.

In general, dimensional stone gets quarried to either a 2- or 3-centimeter thickness.Three-centimeter tends to be

more expensive but it has betterstructural strength, and the edgecan be shaped without additionalhelp to give it depth.

The 2-cm stone is the thicknessthat is more economical and tendsto be readily available for the non-professional installer with pre-fin-ished edges. The edges on 2-cmcounters receive a build-down

treatment to give them the look ofadded bulk. Sometimes the edgeis mitered, which gives it a squarelook and hides the seam well.More often, however, a strip ofgranite is cut and glued to theunderside of the edge, and then a heavy-duty router cuts it into abull-nose shape. The edge seammay be visible to the critical eye.

These pre-fab counters alsohave a single-thickness, polishededge on the back side, which canbe cut along the length of thecounter and used as a matchingbacksplash.

The 2-cm counters need to besupported with plywood sub-decksfor added structural strength.Overhangs are usually supportedwith corbles or cantilevered steelrods.

Cabinets should be very flat,level, well anchored and sturdy. It should be obvious to the most


A small sample of the countermaterial helps when makingdecisions about overhangs andtransitions.

Carefully label the location of templates.

After hot-gluing templatepieces together, an additional

bead of hot glue applied in a caulking-like bead helpsreinforce the connection.

Installing Granite CountertopsSOLIDROCK


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casual observer that big pieces ofrock are heavy.

Regardless of the grade of gran-ite you buy for your project, it’s stillpretty expensive material. That’swhy many installers make tem-plates of wood strips or heavypaper to eliminate measuring mis-takes. Wood templates have theadvantage of holding up well in awet-saw environment, but you acan use roofing felt pieced togeth-er with duct tape as well.

Make sure you label your tem-plates to indicate which is the

front and the back edge, andwhere adjacent features in thekitchen are located.

Sinks mounted under the count-er are traditional for stone coun-ters, but shaping and polishing the edge of the sink opening is achallenging task. You may wish to install a surface-mount sinkinstead.

Making seams in granite counter-tops is another big challenge. A two-part epoxy acts as both an adhesiveand filler. Whenever possible, seamsshould be made over well supported


A template method known as“sticks” traces the perimeter of thecabinet with thin plywood strips.

Score the thin plywood with a utility knife and snap it off.

A grinder head smoothes andshapes the cut made by a cutting wheel.

Specialty tools like this stonerouter are among the least expensive of the tools found at a stone fabrication shop.

Use a straight razor blade totest that the pieces are in

plane. If the end of the bladebumps into the edge of the

stone, it is too high.

SOLIDROCK


sections of cabinets. Cuts shouldbe straight. It’s a good idea toscore the edges below the sur-face, so the epoxy can extend into the notches for increasedsheer strength.Do not make your seams with

the idea of grinding and shapingthem flat later. It is extremely difficult to match the factory polish of your stone. Attempts togrind and buff the surface usuallyresult in a noticeable change insheen, giving the seam areas adull appearance.

Dry-fit the pieces before mixingthe color-matched epoxy, payingparticular attention to shimmingthe pieces so they are flat onplane with each other. Place a stripof masking about 1/2-in. away fromeach edge of the seam. Remove or tip the pieces

enough to place constructionadhesive between the cabinet and countertop, and repositionthe pieces leaving a 1-in. gap at the seam.Mix the epoxy, spread epoxy

onto the edges along the seam


Dead geologists must be rolling over beneath their grave stones at what thequarried countertop industry calls “granite”. So don’t be shocked if a geolo-gist at your next house party tells you that your counter is actually mon-zonite (or syenite, or gabbro, or anorthosite, or gneiss). Just tell him that he

wasn’t actually invited, but he’s welcome toset his beer on the feldspar-bearing rock, while he dishesup some more free food.

NAME THAT ROCK

After the pieces are joined, excess epoxy is removed to the level of the tape.

Take your time determining the best locations for seams.

A two-part epoxy with counter-matching colorant can be mixed

on a scrap of cardboard.With the countertop slabs in

position, the epoxy is mixed andspread along the adjoining edges.

Installing Granite Countertops



Wood-strip templates hold theirshape in the wet conditions of alarge stone saw.

A grinding stone is used to smoothand shape a sink opening.

and press the pieces together.Scrape excess epoxy off the topusing the masking tape as a formto maintain proper epoxy depth.Remove the tape. Clamp and

shim the pieces as needed to getthem flat. Use a straight razorblade to test that the pieces are on plane. If the edge of the bladebumps into the edge of the stone,it is too high.After the epoxy has set up, shave

the excess epoxy off the surfacewith the razor blade. Apply a rec-ommended sealer to the surface.Fit and place the backsplash asdesigned.

An angle grinder and diamond cut-off wheel are the primary tools ofthe stone counter do-it-yourselfer.

A contour diamond blade is used tocut out curves like this sink opening.

An automated edge shaping machinecuts and polishes a bull nose.

Dry cutting granite produces a lot offine dust. Take precautions to protectyour lungs and your property.

EHT

Before

Installing Granite CountertopsSOLIDROCK


K&Mfp_Layout 1 12/6/13 5:01 PM Page 59

EVERYTHING AUTO

It’s no accident that today’sheavy-duty pickup trucks havenicer interiors and greater cargo

hauling capacity than ever. Eventhe auto manufacturers are payingattention to the guys like my broth-er, Chad, who use their trucks forboth work and play.

Chad needs to haul tools withhis truck but he wanted to getaway from the daily grind of hook-ing up and towing our tool trailer.As a long-time contractor, he hasbeen through several tool haulingset-ups over the years (pickupswith canopies, trailers, work vans)so he knew he wanted a truck capon his pickup.

Like a lot of other business own-ers, his work truck is also his dailydriver, his grocery getter and hisvacation transportation. That’s

why any truck cap would have tomatch his lifted F-350’s look.Styling was as important as toolsecurity, and overall looks rankedat least as high as loading andunloading ease. When it came tochoosing the right truck cap, hewas not ready to take functionover form.

Another requirement for thetruck cap was that it not be obvi-ously commercial in appearance.This was not just for style points,

but it was also to keep would-betool thieves from guessing whatwas inside. Stealth storage was atop priority.

That’s why he was very happy tofind that A.R.E. had a cap for histruck in their CX Series. Not onlywas it cab high, form fitting andcolor-matched to his truck, it wasalso available with side toolboxes,which is a very practical design for construction workers and hobbyists alike.

Tool TransportThe right truck cap setup offers protection, convenience and style.

By Larry Walton


• 2x4• 2x8• 1x2• 3/4” tongue-and-groove decking

• Circular saw• Jigsaw• Driver drill• Drywall screws

MATERIALS:

AutoNewEDIT_Layout 1 12/6/13 4:47 PM Page 60

AVAILABLE THROUGHOUTTHE USA, ARKE SPIRAL AND MODULAR STAIRCASEKITS CAN BE BUILT IN A DAY BY THE AVERAGE DO-IT-YOURSELF HOMEENTHUSIAST.

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ARKE MAKES BUYING AND INSTALLING A SPIRAL STAIR CASE EASY WITH THE FOLLOWING KEY FEATURES:• ALL-IN-ONE COMPLETE UNITS: TREADS, LANDING, BALUSTERS, HANDRAILS, HARDWARE AND ACCESSORIES INCLUDED

• NOTHING TO PAINT, WELD, STAIN OR SEAL

• IN STOCK FOR IMMEDIATE DELIVERY www.arkestairs.com

THE KARINA MODULAR SPACE SAVER STAIRKIT IS A UNIQUE ANDSTYLISH SOLUTION FOR NARROW ACCESS AREAS, SUCH AS LOFTS

OR ATTICS, WITHOUT COMPROMISING FUNCTIONALITY.

3

Arke3_Layout 1 12/6/13 4:58 PM Page 61

Rather than windows in the side doors, A.R.E.’s side toolboxoption is designed with aluminumrecessed panels where the glassusually lives. The panel insertsboth deter prying eyes and securetools, fishing gear, or whatever it is you want to haul.Often truck cap side doors are

practically useless, especially forlifted trucks. That’s because it’stough enough to reach over thesidewalls of the bed, let alonebeing able to grab somethingheavy out of the bed and hoist itback over the bed walls. Also, itdoesn’t take much experience orimagination to know what havoctool belts and jean rivets canwreak on the paint job.The side tool boxes, however,

make it easy to access usablestorage space. The floors of thetool boxes are slightly below theopening, making this a greatspace to keep any number of tools or toys readily reachablewhen the doors are open.When we ordered the truck cap

from A.R.E., they asked for truckmake, model, year, cab and bedconfiguration and the exact paintcode from the sticker in the doorjamb of the truck. Harley Christoffersen of

Canopies Plus, our local A.R.E.dealer, called us when the truckcap was in his shop to set up aninstallation appointment. The deal-er installed the unit, making surethe weather seals and lights wereworking properly.Eventually Chad wants to install

a cargo tray such as the GorillaSlide (www.highwayproducts.com),but while he’s waiting for funds tobe available we decided to installa simple wall-to-wall shelf with slid-ers that we’ve used in the past.The idea is to maximize cargocapacity and to minimize effortgetting at tools on the job site andtoys in the field.


EVERYTHING AUTO

Harley Christoffersen ofCanopies Plus, an A.R.E. dealer inEugene, Oregon, preps the bedrails for the weather seals.

Christoffersen used 3MWindow-Weld to build a little tran-sition ramp at the end of the bedrail protectors on the F-350. Heknows from experience that thisstep-down has too many rightangles for the weather strip to con-form and seal without some help.

One of the secrets to a successful truck cap installation is getting a wiring harness for your application.

The wire for the hood lamp is agood place to tap into for thetruck cap dome light.

You probably don’t have a forklift with extended, padded forks, buta friend on each corner will do.

Eleven year old GarrettChristoffersen, an experiencedcanopy man, installs the clampsthat attach the truck cap to thebed rails.

A simple square cut on a 2x4is all that’s needed to make thecross members for the horizontaldeck.EHT



Two-by-4 cross supports fit intopockets in the bed walls.

A 2x8 on edge was almost theright height to make a center par-tition/support running the lengthof the bed. We used cedar shimsto fill the void before fasteningthe parts with 3” drywall screws.

We slid a sheet of 3/4” tongue-and-groove decking into positionon top of the cross supports.

The shelf had to be fit to theirregular contours of the pickupbed walls. A combination squarecan be used to transfer marks.

We measured the widest gapand cut a block of wood to matchthe gap.

We then used the block as agauge to scribe the shelf to fit thebed walls.

A jigsaw does a good job of cut-ting the scribe lines on the shelf.

After adjusting the shelf withsome back cuts, we used it totrace a layout for the other sideof the pickup bed.

You can adjust the foot of thejigsaw to make these cuts at anangle or if you are impatient likemy brother, you can just tip thejigsaw at an angle to match thecurve of the bed walls.

With both pieces in placeagainst the bed walls, we tippedthem up at the seam so thetongue and groove could locktogether.

Drywall screws secure the shelfto the cross members.


EVERYTHING AUTO

We made a slider for the topshelf by cutting a piece of 1/2”wafer board to fit between thebuilt-in tool boxes. We added 1x2 rails to the outside perime-ters and fastened them with dry-wall screws from the bottom side.

With the slider in place, wescrewed down some 1x2 railguides to keep it centered on our bed-sized shelf.

The side doors with built-in

cargo boxes make a great placeto haul frequently used items sothey are easily accessible.

Sliders above and below theshelf make it easy to pull toolsfrom the bed without climbinginside.

A well organized truck capsetup makes life easier on thejobsite.

It takes little effort to transformthe tool hauler into a weekendwarrior for a quick trip to theOregon dunes.


Aluminum panel inserts on the side doors look like tinted glass on this black truck.

Side access tool boxes make a great place to stow gear.


TGtoolsFP_Layout 1 12/6/13 5:06 PM Page BC1

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