Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance...ZINN & THE ART OF MOUNTAIN BIKE MAINTENANCE xiv the chain. Chapter 2 is about the most minimal maintenance your bike requires. Even if

Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th edition

Text copyright © 2010 by Lennard Zinn

Illustrations copyright © 2010 by VeloPress

All rights reserved. Printed in the United States of America.

No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by

any means, electronic or photocopy or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher

except in the case of brief quotations within critical articles and reviews.

1830 55th Street

Boulder, Colorado 80301-2700 USA

(303) 440-0601 · Fax (303) 444-6788 · E-mail [email protected]

Distributed in the United States and Canada by Ingram Publisher Services

A Cataloging-in-Publication record for this book is available from the Library of Congress.

ISBN: 978-1-934030-59-2

For information on purchasing VeloPress books, please call (800) 811-4210 ext. 2169

or visit www.velopress.com.

This book is printed on 100 percent recovered/recycled fiber, 30 percent postconsumer waste,

elemental chlorine free, using soy-based inks.

Cover and interior design by Erin Johnson

Composition by Erin Johnson and Jessica Xavier

Cover photo by Brad Kaminski; bike built by Lennard Zinn

Custom paint job on cover bike by Spectrum Powder Works, Colorado Springs, CO

Title font Sign Production JNL; body text Caecilia Roman

10 11 12 / 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

A Tip of the Helmet to . . . ix

Introduction xiii

Chapters

1 Tools 1

2 Basic Stuff: Preride inspection, wheel removal, and general cleaning 15

3 Emergency Repairs: How to get home when something big breaks or you get lost or hurt 33

4 Chains 51

5 Transmission: Front and rear derailleurs, cables, and shifters 71

6 Wheels: Tires, rims and spokes, hubs, cassettes, and freewheels 111

7 Brakes: Cables, levers, and calipers 147

8 Cranksets 195

9 Pedals 225

10 Saddles and Seatposts 243

11 Handlebars, Stems, and Headsets 257

12 Wheelbuilding 291

13 Forks 311

14 Frames 347

Appendixes

A Troubleshooting Index 371

B Gear Development 377

C Mountain Bike Fitting 383

D Torque Table 393

Glossary 409

Bibliography 421

Index 423

Illustration Index 433

About the Author and Illustrator 437

C O N T E N T S

Sample from Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th Ed.Copyright 2010 VeloPress All rights reserved

I N T R O D U C T I O N

Peace of mind isn’t at all superficial, really. It’s the

whole thing. That which produces it is good mainte-

nance; that which disturbs it is poor maintenance.

What we call workability of the machine is just an

objectification of this peace of mind. The ultimate

test’s always your own serenity. If you don’t have this

when you start and maintain it while you’re working,

you’re likely to build your personal problems right into

the machine itself.

—Robert M. Pirsig,

Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance

ABOUT THIS BOOKThis book is intended for people who have an

interest in maintaining their own mountain

bikes. I have written it for mountain bike owners

who do not think they’re capable of maintain-

ing their own bikes, as well as for those who do

and who want the how-to details at their finger-

tips. In Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance,

Robert Pirsig explores the dichotomy between

the purely classical and purely romantic views

of the world, a dichotomy that also applies to

mountain biking. Riding a mountain bike is

generally a romantic experience of emotion,

inspiration, and intuition, even when solving the

complex physics of how to negotiate a technical

section of trail without putting your foot down.

Mountain bike mechanics, however, is a purely

classical structure of underlying form dominated

by reason and physical laws. The two practices—

bike riding and bike maintenance—fit eloquently

together. Each is designed to function in a par-

ticular way, and to have one without the other

would be missing out on half the fun.

The romantic can appreciate how success at

bike mechanics requires that the procedures be

done with love, without which the care you imag-

ined putting into your mountain bike would be

lost. And even the pure romantic can follow the

simple step-by-step procedures and “exploded”

diagrams in this book (of which Fig. I.1 is an

extreme example and is the only one not intended

to be simple and clear!) and discover a passion for

spreading new grease on old parts.

Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance is

organized in such a way that you can pick main-

tenance tasks appropriate for you. The repairs in

these pages require no special skills to perform;

anyone can do them. It takes only a willingness

to learn.

Mountain bikes are admirably resilient mach-

ines. You can keep one running a long time just

by changing the tires and occasionally lubricating xiii


ZINN & THE ART OF MOUNTAIN BIKE MAINTENANCE

xiv

the chain. Chapter 2 is about the most minimal

maintenance your bike requires. Even if that is

the only part of this book you end up using, you’ll

have gotten your money’s worth by avoiding some

unpleasant experiences out on the trail.

This book was originally intended for home

enthusiasts, not shop mechanics. For that reason,

I have not included the long and precise lists of

parts specifications that a shop mechanic might

need. Nonetheless, when combined with a speci-

fication manual, this book can be a useful, easy-

to-follow reference for shop mechanics, too.

WHY DO IT YOURSELF?There are a number of reasons why you would

want to maintain your own mountain bike.

Obviously, if done right, it is a lot cheaper to do

yourself than to pay someone else to do it. This is

certainly an important factor for those riders who

live to ride and have no visible means of support.

Self-maintenance is a necessity for that crew.

As your income goes up and the time available

to maintain your bike goes down, this becomes

less and less true. If you’re a well-paid profes-

sional with limited free time, it probably does

not make as much economic sense to maintain

your own bike. Yet you may find that you enjoy

working on your bike for reasons other than

just saving money. Unless you have a mechanic

whom you trust and to whom you take your bike

regularly, you are not likely to find anyone else

who cares as much about your bicycle’s smooth

operation and cleanliness as you do. You may also

need your bike fixed faster than a local shop can

do during its busy season. And you need to be

able to fix mechanical breakdowns that occur on

the trail.

It is a given: Breakdowns will happen, even

if you have the world’s best mechanic working

on your bike. For this reason, it takes away from

my enjoyment of a ride if I have something on

my bike that I do not understand well enough to

know whether it is likely to last the ride or how to

fix it if it does not.

There is an aspect of bicycle mechanics

that can be extremely enjoyable in and of itself,

almost independent of riding the bike. Bicycles

are the epitome of elegant simplicity. Bicycle

parts, particularly high-end components, are

meant to work well and last a long time. With the

proper attention, they can shine both in appear-

ance and in performance for years to come.

There is real satisfaction in dismantling a filthy

part that is not functioning well, cleaning it up,

lubricating it with fresh grease, and reassembling

it so that it works like new again. Knowing that

I made those parts work so smoothly—and that I

can do it again when they get dirty or worn—is

rewarding. I am eager to ride hard to see how

they hold up rather than being reluctant to ride

for fear of breaking something.

Also, if you share my stubborn unwillingness

to throw something out and buy a replacement

simply because it has quit working—be it a leaky

Waterpik; a torn tent; a duffle bag with a broken

zipper; or an old car, dishwasher, clock, or chain-

saw that is no longer running well—then this

book is for you. It is satisfying to keep an old piece

of equipment running long past its time, and it’s a

great learning experience!

There is also something very liberating about

going on a long ride and knowing that you can

fix just about anything that might go wrong with

your bike out on the trail. Armed with this knowl-

edge (which begins with learning to identify the

parts of a mountain bike, shown in Fig. I.2) and

the tools to put it into action, you will have more

confidence to explore new areas and to go farther

than you might have otherwise.

To illustrate, an experience from way back in

1995 comes to mind, when I took a day to ride

the entire 110-mile White Rim Trail loop in Utah’s


xv

INTR

OD

UC

TIO

N

INTRODUCTION

Canyonlands National Park. It is as desolate as

you can imagine out there, and I was completely

alone with the sky, the sun, and the rocks for long

stretches. I had a good mileage base in my legs, so

I knew I was physically capable of doing the ride

during the limited daylight hours of late October.

I had checked, replaced, or adjusted practically

every part of my bike in the days before the ride.

I had also tried out the bike on long rides close to

town. Finally, I added to my saddlebag tool kit a

few tools that I do not ordinarily carry.

I knew that there was very little chance of

anything going wrong with my bike, and with the

tools I had, I could fix almost anything short of a

broken frame on the trail. Armed with this knowl-

edge and experience, I really enjoyed the ride! I

stopped and gawked at almost every breathtak-

ing vista, vertical box canyon, colorful balanced

rock, or windblown arch. I took scenic detours.

I knew that I had a good cushion of safety, so I

could totally immerse myself in the pleasure of

the ride. I had no nagging fear of something going

wrong to dilute the experience.

Confidence in your mechanical ability allows

you to be more courageous about what you will try

on trails. And armed with this confidence you’ll

be more willing to share your love of the sport

with less experienced riders. Bringing new people

along on rides is a lot more fun if you know that

you can fix their bikes and they won’t be stranded

with an old junker that won’t roll.

HOW TO USE THIS BOOKSkim through the entire book. Skip the detailed

steps, but look at the exploded diagrams and get

the general flavor of the book and what’s inside.

When it is time to perform a particular task,

you’ll know where to find it, and you’ll have a

basic idea of how to approach it.

Illustrator Todd Telander and I have done our

best to make these pages as understandable as

possible. Exploded diagrams are purposefully

used instead of photographs to show more clearly

how each part goes together. The first time you

go through a procedure, you may find it easier to

have a friend read the instructions out loud as you

perform the steps.

Obviously, some maintenance tasks are more

complicated than others. I am convinced that

anyone with an opposable thumb can perform

virtually any repair on a bike. Still, it pays to spend

some time getting familiar with the really simple

tasks, such as fixing a flat, before throwing your-

self into complex jobs, such as building a wheel.

e LE VEL 1

ee LE VEL 2

eee LE VEL 3

Tasks and tools required are divided into

three levels indicating their complexity or your

proficiency. Level 1 tasks need level 1 tools and

require of you only an eagerness to learn. Level 2

and level 3 tasks also have corresponding tool sets

and are progressively more difficult. All repairs

mentioned in this book are classified as level 1

unless otherwise indicated. Tools are shown in

Chapter 1. The section at the end of Chapter 2,

“Performing Mechanical Work: A General Guide”

(§ii-17), is a must-read; it states general policies

and approaches that apply to all mechanical work.

Each chapter starts with a list of required tools

in the margin. If a section involves a higher level

of work, there will be an icon designating the level

and tools necessary to perform the tasks in that

section. Tasks and illustrations are numbered for

easy reference. Section references use the sym-

bol “§.” For instance, “§iii-6” means “see Section

iii-6 in Chapter 3.” Illustrations are referred to as

“Figures,” for instance, “Fig. 3.3.”



xx

and 650B (27.5-inch) tires and wheels are gaining

favor, particularly for tall riders. Smaller 24-inch

wheels and tires are found on small mountain bikes.

Tire widths and shapes vary and include everything

from studded snow tires to smooth street tires. This

book also covers “hybrid” bikes (Fig. I.5), which are a

cross between road bikes and mountain bikes.

No matter how a mountain bike is configured,

even those who see themselves as having no

mechanical skills will be able to tackle problems

as they arise if they study the steps necessary

to properly maintain and repair their bike. With

a little bit of practice and a willingness to learn,

your bike will transform itself from a mysterious

contraption seemingly too complicated to tamper

with to a simple, very understandable machine

that can be a genuine delight to work on. Just

allow yourself the opportunity and the dignity to

follow along, rather than deciding in advance that

you will never be able to do this. All you have to

do is follow the instructions and trust yourself.

So, set aside your self-image as someone who

is “not mechanically oriented” (and any other fac-

tors that may stand in the way of your making

your mountain bike ride like a dream), and let’s

start playing with your bike!


1

1

expensive), and they ensure that your riding bud-

dies will show up not only to ask your sage advice,

but also to borrow your tools.

And if you really want to go all out and be set

up like a pro (and even have mechanics wanting

to borrow your tools), you can splurge on the set

shown in Figure 1.4. If you loan tools, you might

consider marking your collection to help recover

those items that might otherwise take a long

time finding their way back to your workshop.

It wouldn’t hurt writing down the details about

which tool you lent to whom and on what date.

You would be surprised how easy it is to forget

who has one of your seldom-used tools such as

snapring pliers or a metric tap.

i-1LEVEL 1 TOOL KIT

e LE VEL 1

Level 1 repairs are the simplest and do not

require a workshop, although it is nice to have a

good space to work. You will need the following

tools (Fig. 1.1A):

Y ou can’t do much work on a bike without

tools. Still, it’s not always clear exactly which

tools to buy. This chapter clarifies the tools you

should consider owning on the basis of your level

of mechanical experience and interest.

As I mentioned in the Introduction, the main-

tenance and repair procedures in this book are

classified by their degree of difficulty. Nearly all the

repairs in this book are classified as level 1, unless

otherwise indicated. The tools for levels 1, 2, and 3

are pictured and described in the following pages.

Lists of the tools needed in each chapter are shown

in the margin at the beginning of each chapter.

For the uninitiated, there is no need to rush

out and buy a large number of bike-specific tools.

With only a few exceptions, the Level 1 Tool Kit

(Fig. 1.1A) consists of standard metric tools. This

kit is similar to the collection of tools I recom-

mend later in this chapter to carry with you on

rides, though in a more compact and lightweight

form (Figs. 1.5–6). The Level 2 Tool Kit (Fig. 1.2)

contains several bike-specific tools, allowing you

to do more complex work on the bike. The tools

in the Level 3 Tool Kit (Fig. 1.3) are extensive (and

Behold, we lay a tool here and on the morrow it is gone.

—The Book of Mormon

TOOLS



2

• Tire pump with a gauge and a valve head

to match your bike’s tubes (either Presta or

Schrader valves—see Fig. 1.1B; most good pumps

will fit both). A spare rubber valve-seal insert for

the head is a good idea; these wear out.

• Standard screwdrivers: small, medium, and

large (one of each).

• Phillips-head screwdrivers: one small and one

medium.

• Set of three plastic tire levers (Figs. 6.5–6).

• At least two spare tubes of the same size and

valve type as those on your bike.

• Container of regular talcum powder. It works

well for coating tubes and the inner casings

of tires. Do not inhale this stuff; it’s bad for

the lungs.

• Patch kit. Choose one that comes with sand-

paper instead of a metal scratcher and patches

with soft orange rubber backing to the black

rubber (Fig. 6.11). At least every year and a half,

check that the glue has not dried up, regard-

less of whether the tube has been opened or

not. On rides, you might as well take a little

packet of glueless patches; they don’t work as

well as standard patches, but if the glue has

dried up, you’ll be glad you have them.

• One 6-inch adjustable wrench (aka “Crescent

wrench”).

• Pliers: regular and needle-nose.

• Set of metric hex keys (aka “Allen wrenches”

or “hex wrenches”) that includes 2.5mm, 3mm,

4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm, and 10mm sizes.

Folding sets are available and work nicely to

keep your wrenches organized but are not

strong enough or long enough in the big sizes

(6mm and up); big bolts require more leverage.

I also recommend buying extras of the 4mm,

5mm, 6mm, and 8mm sizes.

• Set of metric open-end/box-end wrenches

that includes 7mm, 8mm, 9mm, 10mm, 13mm,

14mm, 15mm, and 17mm sizes.

• 15mm pedal wrench. This is thinner and lon-

ger than a standard 15mm wrench and thicker

than a cone wrench (Fig. 9.3). Your bike’s ped-

als may accept only a 6mm or 8mm hex key

(Fig. 9.4), so you may not need this tool.

• Chain tool for disconnecting and reconnecting

chain tool

chain lube

patch kit

spare tube

grease

plenty of rags

modern shock pump

1.1A Level 1 Tool Kit

tire levers

15mm pedal wrench


CHAPTER 1

3

TOO

LSTO

OLS

chains (Figs. 4.10–11). Older chain tools may

be too wide for the narrow chains on newer

bikes; read the Pro Tip in Chapter 4 before

buying one.

• Chain-elongation gauge to monitor the condi-

tion of the chain (Figs. 4.5–6).

spoke wrench

talc

standard and Phillips-head screwdrivers

metric hex keys

metric open-end/box-end wrenches

pliers

6" adjustable wrench

Schrader valve adapterfor old Marzocchi and RockShox forks

rubbing alcohol

tirepump with gauge

Schrader

Presta

rubbingalcohol

noggin

folding metric hex keys

needle-nose pliers

1.1B Valve types

chain-elongation gauge

talcumpowder



4

• Spoke wrench to match the size of nipples

used on your bike’s wheels.

• Tube or jar of grease. I recommend using

grease designed specifically for bicycles; how-

ever, standard automotive grease is okay,

except in suspension forks and twist shifters.

• Drip bottle or can of chain lubricant (Fig. 4.1).

Please choose a nonaerosol; it is easier to

control, uses less packaging, and wastes less

in overspray.

• Rubbing alcohol for cleaning disc-brake pads,

rotors, shocks, and internal parts and for

removing and installing handlebar grips.

• A lot of rags!

Other useful items:

• If you have an air-sprung suspension fork or

rear shock, you need a shock pump. Get one

with a no-leak head if the front or rear shock

has standard Schrader valves (Fig. 13.10),

and get the adapter you need if your bike’s

fork requires either a ball needle or a spe-

cial adapter to insert down inside a sunken

Schrader valve.

i-2LEVEL 2 TOOL KIT

ee LE VEL 2

Level 2 repairs are a bit more complex, and I

recommend that you create a well-organized

workspace with a shop bench. Keeping your work-

space organized is probably the best way to make

maintenance and repair easy and quick. You will

need the entire Level 1 Tool Kit (Fig. 1.1A) plus the

following tools (Fig. 1.2):

Portable bike stand. Be sure that the stand is

sturdy enough to remain stable when you’re

really cranking on the wrenches. If for some

reason you can’t clamp your bike’s seatpost,

you will need a bike stand that holds the bike

by the bottom bracket and the front or rear end

with one wheel out; see the one in Figure 1.4.

portable bike stand

ball-peen hammer

splined pedal-spindle removal tool

Channel-lockpliers

1.2 Level 2 Tool Kit

sound system

duct tape

tire pressure gauge

rubber gloves

snapring pliers


51

TOOLSchain lubricant

12-inch ruler

chain tool

lots of rags

rubber gloves

OPTIONALchain-elongation

indicator

master link pliers

solvent (citrus

based)

self-contained chain

cleaner

old water bottle

caliper

pliers

solvent tank

Rohloff cog-wear

indicator

4

fancy about it, you can assess the type of condi-

tions in which you ride and choose a lubricant

intended for those conditions. Some lubricants

are dry and pick up less dirt in dry conditions.

Some are sticky and therefore less likely to

wash off in wet conditions. Still others claim to

be “metal conditioners” that actually penetrate

and alter the surface of the metal. One of these,

ProGold’s ProLink, gives me longer chain life in all

riding conditions, with daily use, than anything

else I have tried, so that’s what I use. I’m not say-

ing that there aren’t other equally good products,

but by recommending one that I know is good,

I can cut down on the e-mails asking me what

chain lube I suggest.

Chain lubes generally come in spray cans and

in squeeze bottles. Sprays should be avoided for

regular maintenance chores because they tend

to spew too much oil over everything, includ-

ing in the air where you can inhale the lube. The

chain needs oil only between contacting parts.

On the outside, a thin film is sufficient to keep

corrosion at bay; more than that will only attract

dirt and gunk without improving the function of

the chain.

A bike chain is a simple series of links connected

by rivets. Rollers surround each rivet between

the link plates and engage the teeth of the cogs

and chainrings. It is an extremely efficient method

of transmitting mechanical energy from the ped-

als to the rear wheel. In terms of weight, cost, and

efficiency, the bicycle chain has no equal, and—

believe me—people have tried without success to

improve on it for years.

To keep your bike running smoothly, you have

to take care of the chain. It needs to be kept clean

and well lubricated in order to transmit your

energy efficiently and shift smoothly. Chains need

to be replaced frequently to prolong the working

life of other, more expensive, drivetrain compo-

nents because a chain gets longer as its internal

parts wear, thus contacting the gear teeth differ-

ently than intended.

CHAIN SERVICE AND ASSEMBLY

iv-1LUBRICATING THE CHAINWhen lubricating the chain, use a lubricant

intended for bicycle chains. If you want to get

A chain is only as strong as its weakest link.

—Anonymous

A sausage is only as good as its last link.

—Bluto

CHAINS



52

1. Drip a small amount of lubricant across each

roller (Fig. 4.1). Periodically move the chain so

that you can easily access the links you are

working on. To speed the process, turn the

crank slowly while dripping lubricant onto

the chain as it goes by. Yes, this method will

cause you to apply excess lubricant, which

will pick up more dirt. But overlubricating is

far preferable to not lubricating, and if you

wipe and lube the chain after each ride or

two, it won’t build up excessive grime.

2. Wipe the chain off lightly with a rag. In wet

conditions, expect to use more lubricant (after

every ride or even during a long, rainy ride).

iv-2CLEANING THE CHAIN BY FREQUENT WIPING AND LUBRICATIONCleaning the chain can be accomplished in

a number of ways. The simplest method to

maintain a chain is to wipe it down frequently,

lubricate it, and then wipe off the excess lube. If

you do this procedure before every ride, you will

never need to clean the chain with a solvent.

The lubricant softens the old sludge buildup,

which is driven out of the chain when you

ride. Of course, the lubricant also picks up new

dirt and grime, but if you wipe them off before

they’re driven deep into the chain and relubri-

cate the chain frequently, it will stay clean and

supple. Chain cleaning can be performed as fol-

lows with the bike standing on the ground or in

a bike stand:

4.1 Lubing the chain

4.2 Wiping the chain with a rag


CHAPTER 4

53

CH

AIN

S

1. Grab the chain with a rag. Grasp the lower

length of the chain (between the bottom of

the chainring and the rear-derailleur lower

jockey wheel).

2. Turn the crank backward a number of revo-

lutions. Pull the chain through the rag (Fig.

4.2). Periodically rotate the rag to present a

cleaner section of it to the chain.

3. Lubricate the chain as in §iv-1.

To encourage regular care, leave a pair of rub-

ber gloves, a rag, and some chain lube next to your

bike. Then, whenever you return from a ride, put on

the gloves, wipe and lube the chain, and put your

bike away. It takes maybe a minute, your hands

stay clean, and your bike is ready for the next ride.

If you can find time to take a shower after you ride,

you can find time for this. Wipe the chainrings,

cogs, front derailleur, and jockey wheels (Fig. 4.3)

while you’re at it, and the entire drivetrain will

always work ideally.

iv-3USING CHAIN-CLEANING UNITSSeveral companies make chain-cleaning units

that scrub the chain with a solvent while it is

on the bike. These chain cleaners are generally

made of clear plastic and have two or three

rotating brushes that scrub the chain as it moves

through the solvent bath (Fig. 4.4). The units offer

the advantage of letting you clean the chain

without removing it from the bike. Regularly

removing the chain shortens any chain’s life;

moreover, with 9- or 10-speed chains unless you

use a master link, you may find that the chain

breaks under high load, thereby driving your foot,

and perhaps your entire body, into the ground.

Most chain-cleaning units come with a non-

toxic, citrus-based solvent. For your safety, and

other environmental reasons, I strongly recom-

mend that you purchase nontoxic citrus solvents

for the chain-cleaning unit, even if it already

comes with a petroleum-based solvent. If you

recycle used diesel fuel, then go ahead and use it.

In any case, wear gloves and glasses when using

any solvent.

Citrus chain solvents often contain some

lubricants, so they won’t dry the chain out. The

combination of lubricant and solvent is why diesel

fuel has had such a following as a chain cleaner.

A really strong solvent without lubricant (acetone,

for example) will displace the oil from inside the

rollers. The solvent will later evaporate, leaving a

4.3 Wiping the jockey wheels with a rag 4.4 Using a solvent-bath chain cleaner



54

dry, squeaking chain that is hard to rehabilitate.

The same can happen with a citrus-based solvent

that does not include a lubricant if no lubricant is

separately applied, especially if the chain is not

allowed to dry long enough. The procedure for

using a chain-cleaning unit is straightforward:

1. Remove the top and pour in the solvent up

to the fill line.

2. Place the chain-cleaning unit up against the

bottom of the chain. Reinstall the top so that

the chain runs through it (Fig. 4.4).

3. Turn the bike’s crank backward. Run the

chain through the unit’s brushes until it is

clean.

4. Remove the unit from the chain.

5. Lubricate the chain as in §iv-1.

6. Let the solvent settle, decant the clear por-

tion, and discard the sludge.

iv-4REMOVING AND CLEANING THE CHAIN

e LE VEL 1

You can also clean the chain by removing it from

the bicycle and cleaning it in a solvent. I do not

recommend this procedure unless the chain has

a master link, because repeatedly disassembling

the chain by pushing rivets in and out weakens it.

Mountain bike chains are prone to break-

age because of the conditions in which they are

used, but chain breakage is even more of an issue

because of the narrow width of 9- and 10-speed

chains. A chain that breaks during riding gener-

ally does so when you shift the front derailleur

while pedaling hard. This technique can pry a

link plate open so that the head of a rivet pops

out of the plate, tearing the chain apart. Chain

disassembly and reassembly expand the size of

the rivet hole where you put the chain together,

allowing the rivet to pop out more easily. Shimano

supplies special “subpins” for reassembly of its

chains that are meant to prevent this problem,

but the chain is still not as strong there as if you

had left the original pin in place.

A hand-opened master link can avoid the

problem of repeatedly opening and reassembling

the chain. Master links are standard on SRAM,

Wippermann, Taya, and KMC chains. An after-

market master link, like Lickton’s SuperLink, can

also be installed into any chain so long as you

make sure that the master link is the right width.

If you do disassemble the chain (see §iv-7

or §iv-11 for instructions), you can clean it well,

even without a solvent tank. Just drop the chain

into an old jar or water bottle half filled with sol-

vent. Using an old water bottle or jar allows you

to clean the chain without touching or breathing

the solvent—something to be avoided even when

you are using citrus solvents.

The procedure for cleaning the chain without

using a chain-cleaning unit could not be simpler:

1. Remove the chain from the bike (§iv-7 or

§iv-11).

2. Drop it in a water bottle or jar.

3. Pour in enough solvent to cover the chain.

4. Shake the bottle vigorously. Keep it low to

the ground in case the top pops off or the jar

breaks.

5. Hang the chain to air-dry.

6. Reassemble it on the bike (see §iv-8 to

§iv-11).

7. Lubricate it as in §iv-1.

Whatever you do, don’t leave the chain to

soak for extended periods in citrus-based sol-

vents, because these are water based and will

cause the chain to oxidize (rust), making it move

with more friction and be more prone to break-

age. (Some people believe in having two chains

they rotate on and off the bike, leaving one soak-

ing in solvent while the other one is on the bike.


CHAPTER 4

55

CH

AIN

S

Although this would work with diesel fuel as the

solvent, it won’t work with water-based solvents.

In any case, you gain nothing by soaking the chain

for extended periods, so just don’t do it.)

After removing the chain, allow the solvent

in the bottle or jar to settle for a few days so that

you can decant the clear stuff and use it again. I’ll

say this throughout the book: Use a citrus-based

solvent. It is not only safer for the environment;

it is also gentler on your skin and less harmful

to breathe. Wear rubber gloves when working

with any solvent, and use a respirator meant for

volatile organic compounds if you are not using

a citrus-based solvent. There is no sense in fixing

your bike to go faster if you end up becoming a

slow, sickly bike rider.

iv-5REPLACING THE CHAIN

e LE VEL 1

As the rollers, pins, and plates wear out, the

chain lengthens. That, in turn, hastens the wear

and tear on other drivetrain parts. An elongated

chain concentrates the load on each individual

gear tooth, rather than distributing it over all of

the teeth that the chain is wrapped around, and

as a result the gear teeth become hook-shaped

and the tooth valleys become wider. If such wear

has already occurred, a new chain will not solve

the problem. A new chain will not mesh prop-

erly with deformed teeth, and it is likely to skip

whenever you pedal hard. So before all of that

extra wear and tear hits your pocketbook, get in

the habit of checking the chain on a regular basis

(§iv-6) and replacing it as needed.

How long it takes for the chain to wear out

will vary, depending on chain type, maintenance,

riding conditions, and strength and weight of the

rider. Figure on replacing the chain every 500 to

1,000 miles, especially for bikes ridden in dirty

conditions by a large rider. Lighter riders riding

mostly on paved roads can often extend replace-

ment time to more than 2,000 miles.

iv-6CHECKING FOR CHAIN ELONGATION

e LE VEL 1

a. Chain-elongation gauges

The simplest accurate method for checking chain

elongation is to use a gauge. Make sure you check a

number of spots on the chain; you’ll find variation.

The Rohloff gauge (Fig. 4.5) is simple, quick,

and reliable. It’s a go/no-go gauge. Brace the hook

end against a chain roller, and if the opposing

curved tooth falls completely into the chain so

that the length of the tool’s body contacts it, the

chain is shot. If the chain is still in good shape, the

curved tooth will not go all of the way in. The tooth

marked “S” is for checking a chain running strictly

on steel rear cogs, and the tooth marked “A” is for

checking aluminum and titanium cogs, but I use

just the A side. I find that if the A edge comes down

to the chain and I replace it right then, I get almost

infinite life out of my chainrings and cogs, even

titanium ones. That’s worth it to me.

The ProGold chain gauge (Fig. 4.6) is also quick

and accurate. Brace the hooked end against a

chain roller, and let the long tooth drop into the

4.5 Checking chain wear with the Rohloff gauge. If the curved tooth with the S (steel cogs) falls completely into the chain, replace the chain (A is for aluminum cogs).



198

“Square taper,” “Octalink,” and “ISIS” are three

different bottom-bracket and crankarm interface

standards. Square-taper bottom-bracket spindles are

square on the end (Figs. 8.1, 8.18, 8.21–23) and fit into

a square hole in the crankarm. The spindle ends are

tapered (at a 2-degree angle) to tighten into the crank

as the arm is pushed into the spindle. ISIS (Fig. 8.19)

and Shimano Octalink (Fig. 8.20) are both oversized

hollow spindles (aka “pipe spindles”) with longitudinal

splines on the ends.

3. Unscrew the crank puller’s (Fig. 8.6) center

push bolt so that its tip is flush with the

face of the tool. Make sure the flat end of

the push bolt is the right size for the bottom

bracket; the push bolt end is much smaller

for a square-taper spindle than for an ISIS or

a Shimano Octalink splined spindle.

4. Thread the crank puller into the hole in the

crankarm. Be sure that you thread it in (by

hand) as far as it can go; otherwise, you will

not engage sufficient crank threads when you

tighten the push bolt, and you will damage

the threads. Future crank removal depends

on those threads being in good condition.

5. Tighten the push bolt clockwise (Fig. 8.6)

until the crankarm pulls off the spindle. Use

a socket wrench or the included handle.

6. Unscrew the puller from the crankarm.

Installation

a. Integrated-spindle cranks with two pinch

bolts on the left arm

e LE VEL 1

1. Grease the spindle tip and the bore of each

bearing.

2. Push the spindle (which is attached to the

right crankarm) in through the bearings from

the drive side.

3. Slide the left arm onto the end of the spindle.

Check that the crank is at 180 degrees from

the right arm.

8.5 Removing and installing a Shimano 2007–2010 XTR FC-M970 crankset

left bearing cupspacer

spindle

washer adjusting nut

left crankarm

washerretainer

bolt

bolt

right bearing cup

right crankarm TL-FC35

crankarmremoval tool

TL-FC17adjusting nut tool

spacer

spindle cover with O-rings

(Attention: left-hand thread!)


423

I N D E X

Adjustable cups, 207, 215, 216, 221, 409

Air compressors, 11, 122, 154Air pressure, 318, 320, 326–327Air-sleeves, servicing, 353, 354, 355Alignment tool, 10Antiseize compound, 28, 200Antitwist tool, 9Automatic transmission fluid (ATF),

336, 337Axle-clamp tool, 10 Axle nuts, 15, 20Axles, 30, 212, 299, 409

checking, 19cleaning, 130removing, 129replacing, 235securing, 23–24through-, 20–22, 23, 128

Ball bearings, 142, 174, 203, 204, 207, 218, 231, 234, 358, 359, 360, 361, 409

angular-contact, 272, 277, 278, 279, 281

ceramic, 136, 217, 219cleaning, 130–131, 133, 221, 237,

277, 280loose, 278, 279lubricating, 131, 132, 281, 286orienting, 218–219, 278overtightening, 272press-in, 211, 279replacing, 130, 131, 217–220, 277,

280, 282, 359–360sealed, 416standard, 280steel, 136, 217See also Cartridge bearings

Bar ends, 153, 154, 287, 409installing, 95–96, 255, 257position of, 390–391replacing, 95–96, 257, 258

Barrel adjusters, 77, 78, 88, 89, 90, 92, 93, 149, 151, 152, 153, 154,

166, 409BBT-39 tool, 200, 212Bearing cups, 207, 211, 212, 409Bearing pullers, 211, 219–220Bearing removers, 11Belt drives, 64–66, 101Bike dimensions, 385Bike fitting, 383–391, 385–393Bike stands, 4, 9Blankets, 14, 48Body measurements, 385–388Bosses, 176, 180, 181, 183, 186, 188,

191, 194, 309brake, 148, 150, 345, 348, 410cantilever, 148, 311, 312, 313, 348,

350, 351, 411disc-brake, 312, 313, 350, 351

Bottom-bracket cups, 30, 83, 213, 217, 223, 350

Bottom-bracket shells, 11, 58, 66, 81, 83, 207, 208, 209, 210, 212, 213, 214, 215, 216, 220, 222, 223, 252, 352, 387, 410

cleaning, 211, 212full-carbon, 204tapping, 350unthreaded, 203

Bottom-bracket tools, 6 Bottom brackets, 65, 102, 108, 109,

110, 191, 195, 198, 203–216, 231, 345, 388, 409

adjusting, 201, 222, 223BB30: 220BB86: 204, 205, 206BB90: 204, 206BB92: 204–206, 210–211, 220BB95: 204–206, 210–211, 219

cartridge, 212–213, 216, 220–221, 223–225

cup-and-cone, 213–216, 221, 222, 223

eccentric, 58, 66external-bearing, 203, 205, 206,

209–210height, 384, 386, 410

installing, 83, 208–216, 221integrated-spindle, 216, 217ISIS, 198, 213ISO, 206noise in, 221–224overhauling, 109, 216–221, 223PF24: 205, 210–211, 220PF30: 204, 220Shimano, 207, 209, 213, 215square-taper, 198, 203, 208threaded, 206–207, 217–220, 350threadless, 204, 210–212, 219

Box-cutter knife, 6Brake boosters, 189, 194, 410Brake hoses, 46, 164, 166, 173

installing, 189Brake levers, 96, 152–155, 177, 184,

255positioning, 152–154removing, 96, 152–154, 258shift cables and, 88squeezing, 15, 163

Brake pads, 23, 42, 126, 164, 174, 299, 410

adjusting, 151, 177, 180, 181, 188–189, 193

checking, 15, 156cleaning, 156cottered, 155, 156, 157disc, 155–157offset of, 177–178, 182removing, 166, 171replacing, 166, 179–180, 181, 191,

192, 193rims and, 40–41spacing, 149, 158, 166toeing in, 183, 191, 193–194worn, 148, 150, 193

Brake reach, adjusting, 154–155Brakes, 23, 24, 152, 154, 170–171,

173, 183, 185, 186, 410bleeding, 168–170checking, 15, 16, 22curved-face, 183cylindrical-arm, 183



424

cylindrical-clamp, 182disconnecting, 328, 331feel of, 184Hayes, 157, 159, 168–170, 173hub, 414linkage, 148, 190, 194mounting, 162-163opening, 40–41options for, 147–148releasing, 16–17, 23, 148, 150rim, 16, 149, 150, 301rubbing, 370Shimano, 88–89, 95, 167, 185troubleshooting with, 192–194See also Cantilever brakes; Disc

brakes; Hydraulic brakes; Roller-cam brakes; U-brakes; V-brakes

Braking, 291, 322chattering/vibration when, 183,

369, 372, 374, 375problems with, 369–370

Brushes, 24, 26Buckets, 24Bushings, 180, 181, 211, 231, 234,

330, 334, 335, 353, 354, 355, 356, 358, 361, 410

replacing, 359–360

Cable cutters, 6, 86Cable stops, 348, 410Cable tension, 72, 76–78, 107

adjusting, 71, 74, 85, 148–149, 151, 152, 186, 230–231, 396

Cables, 76, 97, 148–154, 178, 185, 190, 251, 311, 410

broken, 45–46clamping, 40–41Gore-Tex, 86, 94, 95, 178installing, 22, 74, 92–93, 94, 150loose, 40–41, 85lubricating, 30, 94–95, 107, 149,

150maintaining, 103, 149, 152, 192replacing, 30, 85, 87–92, 149, 150,

152shift, 80, 85, 88, 89–90Shimano, 89–90sticky, 68, 107tying, 43worn, 151, 193

Calipers, 11, 41, 150, 156, 163, 170, 313, 410

cleaning, 171–173disc-brake, 31, 161, 162, 173–174

hydraulic, 156, 171–173measuring, 415mounting, 161–162overhauling, 173–174postmount, 163

Cantilever brakes, 16, 22, 31, 41, 147–148, 149, 150, 151, 175–180, 411

curved-face, 183overhauling, 180–187sidepull, 417

Cantilevers, 147, 148, 150, 151, 152, 194, 417

Carbon-grip compound, 9Cartridge bearings, 103, 133–136,

208, 219, 231, 276, 279, 280, 286, 358, 359, 411

angular-contact, 277, 278, 281cleaning, 133–134lubricating, 31See also Ball bearings

Cartridge-removal tool, 340Cartridges, 208, 352

air inflation, 35Centering, 126, 178–179, 301–303Chain cleaners, 26, 53–54Chain elongation, checking for,

55–56, 67, 69Chain-elongation gauges, 3, 55–56,

69Chain gap, 78–79Chain keepers, 7Chain length, determining, 57–59, 73Chain links, 411

loosening, 67replacing, 38, 56, 60spacing between, 66spare, 13tight/stiff, 66, 67twisted, 36–38

Chain retention devices, 100–101Chain stops, 110Chain suck, 66–67, 107, 201, 370, 411Chain tensioner, 101Chain tools, 2–3, 12, 33, 38, 42, 56,

59, 61, 62Chain whips, 6, 7, 138, 139, 140, 141,

142, 411Chainlines, 85, 107–108, 224, 411

measuring, 108–110Chainring bolts, 195, 201, 202, 222Chainring-cassette removal tools, 6Chainring-nut tools, 6, 202, 411Chainrings, 27, 37, 42–45, 51, 53, 55,

57, 58, 60, 64, 65, 195, 197–202,

216, 411bent, 201chainstays and, 223–225cleaning, 26, 66, 200inner, 109, 223inspecting, 66, 200–201installing, 66, 202jammed chains and, 36loose, 221maintaining, 200middle, 10spindles and, 209worn, 200

Chains, 411assembling, 51–52broken, 38, 54, 56, 57, 59cleaning, 26–27, 52–55, 66connecting, 57, 59–61dropping, 110, 370jammed, 15, 36–38, 370lubricating, 4, 13, 25–26, 27, 30,

51–54, 66, 67, 74, 105, 254maintaining, 152measuring, 140removing, 27, 44, 45, 54–57, 63replacing, 55, 62, 67, 68, 74, 150Shimano, 26, 56, 59, 60–61, 62skipping, 67, 107, 370slapping, 370, 372squeaking, 67SRAM, 54, 56, 61, 62troubleshooting, 66–69with twisted link, 37–38wiping, 25, 26, 27, 30, 52–53, 67Wippermann, 37, 54, 56, 62, 67, 69

Chainstays, 23, 40, 43, 65, 66, 74, 81, 102, 103, 109, 159, 213, 349, 361, 367, 411

chain suck and, 67chainrings and, 223–225jammed chains and, 36

Circlips, 208, 211, 212, 220, 313, 327, 336

Clamps, 58, 81, 82, 83, 254, 255, 276cylindrical, 182saddle, 245, 246seatpost, 31, 46, 253, 254split, 153See also Stem clampsCleats, 226, 230adjusting, 227–229, 240installing, 227–229loose, 239–240

Clunking noises, problems with, 222–223, 372


INDEX

425

Cog-wear indicator gauge, 11Cogs, 51, 55, 58, 64, 73, 74, 75, 77,

78, 79, 108, 111, 127, 137–146, 209, 411

cassette, 138–141checking, 67–68cleaning, 26, 53, 138, 139, 140removing, 68, 102, 138, 139, 140,

145–146replacing, 68, 139, 140, 141worn, 67, 139, 140

Compression, 316, 357, 358, 361Compression damping, 321–322,

362, 365, 366, 411adjusting, 316, 323, 325, 364

Compression rings, 273, 276, 278Concentric-pivot systems, 43, 65,

102Cones, 6, 127, 128–133, 213–216,

221, 222, 223, 236, 237, 409, 411Crank bolts, 195, 197, 199, 200, 222,

411Crank extraction tools, 197Crank pullers, 6, 195, 198Crankarms, 84, 195, 197–202, 210,

211, 216, 217, 221, 225, 226, 227, 244, 363, 385, 411

length/determining, 388loose, 222–223removing/installing, 202, 212,

215, 218Cranks

custom, 388hard-to-turn, 223integrated-spindle, 195, 197,

198–199, 203, 204, 205length, 390, 411removing/installing, 195, 197–200Shimano, 197, 199, 202, 207square taper, 197, 199troubleshooting, 221–224

Cranksets, 195, 210, 412BB30: 204, 219external-bearing, 207lubricating, 31three-piece, 197, 199, 203, 204,

207–209Truvativ, 209, 210, 218, 219two-piece, 203, 207

Creaking noises, 372bottom bracket, 221–222crank, 221–222handlebar, 287pedaling, 207, 239–240seatpost, 254

Crowfoot sockets, 11, 412Crown-race punches, 285Crown-race removers, 11, 283, 284Cup removal tools, 7Cups, 412

adjustable, 207, 215, 216, 221, 409bearing, 207, 211, 212, 409bottom bracket, 30, 83, 213, 217,

223, 350fixed, 214, 413

Damping, 318, 357, 412adjusting, 325–326, 327, 334changing oil and, 336–338,

355–356compression, 316, 321–322, 323,

325, 362, 364, 365, 366, 411hydraulic, 262, 309–310, 314preload, 363–364pressurizing, 358rebound, 318, 320–321, 323, 325,

361, 362, 364, 365, 366, 416Damping adjusters, 326, 327, 334,

365Damping systems, 325, 336–338Derailleur cages, 42, 68, 84, 107Derailleur-hanger alignment tools,

11, 68, 349Derailleurs, 23, 27, 47, 57, 71–80,

80–85, 209, 412adjusting, 68, 71, 74–80, 83–85,

200bent, 43, 68, 107bottom-pull/top-pull, 82broken, 71, 103bypassing, 44cables and, 82, 85, 92–94 chain length and, 57disassembling, 88, 106down-swing, 81E-type, 81, 82–83, 209, 213, 223installing, 73–74, 82–83lubricating, 30, 105maintaining, 26, 53, 103–106positioning, 83, 84, 107repairing, 42–44replacing, 69, 79, 105, 106Shimano, 45, 46, 71, 73, 74–75,

76, 77, 79, 82–83, 84, 87, 88, 92, 106, 107, 213

spokes and, 370, 372SRAM, 78, 82, 87, 106, 107top-swing, 81, 224troubleshooting, 107–110worn, 67, 107

Disc-brake pads, checking/replac-ing, 155–157

Disc brakes, 17, 22, 31, 147, 148, 152, 155–164, 166–175, 192, 412

adjusting, 158–164, 166cable-actuated, 155installing, 158–164, 166overhauling, 171–174

Dishing, 301–303, 349, 367, 412Dishing tools, 7, 301, 302, 412Drills, 11Drivetrains, 60, 65, 74, 101, 107, 292,

412cleaning, 24–26wear/tear on, 55

Dropout-alignment tools, 11, 341–343, 342, 344, 367–368

Dropout Saver, 351Dropouts, 18, 20, 23, 24, 65, 66, 71,

73, 78, 102, 109, 128, 309, 311, 349, 412

aligning, 68, 342–343, 344, 366aluminum/titanium, 368bent, 80, 312, 344bolt-on, 367inspecting, 348sliding, 58spacing, 341, 342thickness of, 351

Duct tape, 14Dust caps, 144, 199, 200, 236, 237,

239, 412Dust covers, 143, 237

Easy-outs, 354, 412Elastomers, 249, 262, 309, 311, 314,

315, 318, 319, 324–326, 327, 331, 361, 412

End caps, 86, 152, 410, 412

Fasteners, torque for, 396–407 (table)

Feeler gauges, 11Files, 6Firmly tightened, 29, 395Foot pounds (ft-lbs), Newton-

meters and, 397Fork braces, 311, 315Fork-crown race punch, 7Fork-crown race remover, 283Fork-crown races, 281, 282–284,

285–286Fork crowns, 309, 310, 311, 312, 313,

315, 413clamping, 268



426

fork legs and, 316, 327–328Fork legs, 40, 309, 311, 315, 325damaged, 313fork crowns and, 316removing, 327–328telescoping, 310

Fork rake, 309, 413Fork travel, 319

changing, 323, 338-339measuring, 315–317

Forks, 16, 18, 115, 289, 310, 317, 413air-sprung, 312, 326–327alignment of, 312, 313, 314, 318,

341–344aluminum, 314, 343carbon-fiber, 314, 343coil-spring, 311, 319, 324–326, 327double-crown, 327, 328, 330failure of, 311, 312headset installation and, 284–285high-end, 321, 331inspecting, 311–313, 313–314linkage, 312, 314lubricating, 31, 314maintaining, 313–314, 314–315Manitou, 34, 159, 331movement of, 321, 322overhauling, 314, 330–331,

334–336rebound damping and, 321removing, 277, 280, 282, 330–331,

341rigid, 309, 313–314, 344RockShox, 326, 327, 328, 337,

338–339, 340, 357SID, 326, 327, 337single-crown, 327, 328steel, 341, 344stuck stems in, 287suspension, 20, 31, 46, 128, 189,

263, 282, 284, 309, 310, 313, 314, 314–315, 317–324, 330, 384, 386

telescoping, 310, 312, 314threaded, 265–266, 267, 312titanium, 314, 343triple-clamp, 327–328, 330tuning, 314, 315, 317–327upside-down, 419

Frame sizebody measurements and,

385–388correct, 384–385finding, 383, 386–387

Frames, 31, 208, 212, 289, 413

alignment of, 366–368carbon, 347, 348cleaning, 348designing, 345, 347diamond, 345, 412headset installation and, 284–285suspension, 101–102, 347, 358–

361, 368, 386, 389, 390types of, 249, 347

Freehubs, 78, 134, 137–146, 413disassembling, 144lubricating, 142–146overhauling, 111removing, 144, 146seized, 47solvents and, 142, 144

Freewheel removers, 7, 141Freewheels, 127, 137–146, 413

lubricating, 30, 146maintaining, 111replacing, 68, 111, 141seized, 47

Front triangles, 345, 347, 349, 413

Gauges, 56, 57, 68Gear development, 375–381

for 26-inch wheels, 376–378 (table)

for 29-inch wheels, 381–383 (table)

Gloves, 13, 55Grease, 4, 13, 137, 201

molybdenum disulfide, 94nonlithium, 6, 92, 97, 335silicone-based, 6Slick Honey, 251, 335, 355, 357,

359Teflon, 92, 97

Grease guns, 6, 136, 142Grip Shifts, 29, 78, 94, 95, 107, 258,

413long/short, 97, 98overhauling, 91–92replacing, 96–97

Grips, 111, 255, 266installing, 95–96, 257–258removing, 95–96, 153, 257, 258trimming, 258

Hacksaw, 6Hammers

ball-peen, 6, 7soft, 7

Handlebar height, 385, 388, 389–390adjusting, 266, 392

Handlebar position, 242, 244, 263, 266, 388–391

Handlebar reach, 384–385, 388, 390Handlebar slips, 286–287Handlebars, 251, 255, 257, 258–260,

273, 315, 325, 413broken, 47, 260, 287carbon, 154, 260, 393drop, 384–385installing, 258–259knees and, 383, 384maintaining, 16, 259–260overtightened, 259, 393replacing, 258, 259–260, 266riser, 255, 391saddles and, 390troubleshooting, 286–287twisting, 259, 266, 267types of, 260, 266undertightened, 393

Hangers, 13, 43, 69, 78, 80, 366, 410, 412

alignment of, 349–350bent, 68, 107, 349–350brake-cable, 271, 281derailleur, 348, 349–350, 351straddle-cable, 184

Head angles, 309, 413Head tubes, 277, 278, 282, 284, 286,

367, 388, 413measuring, 268, 270

Headlights, 14Headset cups, 286

removing, 276, 282Headset presses, 7, 11, 285–286Headset rockets, 282Headsets, 255, 263, 270–286, 312,

313, 413adjusting, 265, 268, 272–276, 279,

282, 286, 287cartridge-bearing, 272cupless, 268, 277, 278, 282installing, 284–286integrated, 270, 271, 274, 278,

284, 414loose-ball, 278, 281loosening, 274–275overhauling, 276–282overtightening, 275pitted, 275, 287press-in internal with lipped

cups, 268replacing, 281, 282–284, 287semi-integrated, 270threaded, 273–276, 279–282, 418


INDEX

427

threadless, 269, 270–272, 276–279, 285, 387, 390

tight, 272–273, 274–275, 287traditional, 168, 270troubleshooting, 286–287

Hex keys, 12, 29, 47, 414metric, 2, 7, 20, 40, 41, 42

HG-IG check tool, 68, 139Hose cutters, 11Housing, 76, 77, 82, 89, 90, 92, 148–

152, 185, 193, 273, 410cutting, 11, 86, 153friction and, 150index-shift, 86installing, 74, 87lower-knuckle, 79lubricating, 30, 85, 94–95, 151, 152replacing, 30, 152sticky, 68Teflon-lined, 150, 151

Hubs, 102, 103, 127–137, 231, 306, 414

assembling, 131–132cartridge-bearing, 127, 128,

132–136cup-and-cone, 127, 128–133DT Swiss, 28, 125, 133, 134, 142,

145front, 127, 292Grease Guard, 136–137high-end, 128, 136internal-gear, 101–103lubricating, 131–132overhauling, 111, 127–136replacing/flipping, 141–142sealed-bearing, 127, 128wheelbuilding and, 289, 291, 292,

299Hydraulic brakes, 42, 99, 107, 148,

150, 158, 166–173, 187–190, 192, 193, 194, 414

bleeding, 31, 166, 168, 170, 171, 189–190

disconnecting, 328replacing pads on, 189

Hydraulic fluid, 158, 166, 167, 169, 170, 171, 172, 173, 194

Hydraulic oil, 325

Inertial valves, 322, 325, 327, 365, 414

adjusting, 323, 364Inner legs, 310, 314, 327, 334, 335,

336, 337, 339, 414installing, 328, 330

Inner tubes, 114, 122, 123, 251finding leaks in, 115–116inflating, 35, 36installing, 36, 118–120patching, 36, 116removing, 111–112spare, 2, 12–13, 34–35tying knots in, 35

International Organization for Standardization (ISO), 117, 159

Interrupted-seat-tube configura-tions, 387, 388

Jockey wheels, 27, 43, 58, 59, 68, 73, 74, 78, 80, 414

bolts, 106cartridge-bearing, 104–105lost, 44–45maintaining, 68, 103–105wiping, 26, 53

Knee clearance, 384

Lacing, 289, 294, 296, 297–299, 306checking, 299, 307radial, 304–305three-cross, 304–305

Leaksfinding, 115–116sealing, 122, 123, 124

Leverage, 154–155, 166, 176, 177, 414Levers, 89, 90, 150, 170, 173

lockout, 362, 364Shimano, 87–88, 99–100, 107, 155split-clamp, 153SRAM, 87, 95, 97, 155See also Brake levers; Quick-

release levers; Tire leversLickton’s SuperLink, 61Limit screws, 73, 107

adjusting, 46, 71, 74, 75–76, 78, 84, 85

Locknuts, 58, 133, 145, 146, 149, 152, 237, 271, 273, 275, 281, 414

loosening, 128–129, 132, 151, 274removing, 236, 280tightening, 132

Lockouts, 316, 362, 364, 414Lockring tools, 6, 160Lockrings, 78, 140, 160, 207, 213,

224, 414adjustable-cup, 223removing, 139, 221tightening, 215–216

Loctite, 28, 68, 77, 136, 212, 222,

231, 313Lubrication, 30–31, 128, 330

ball bearing, 31, 131, 132, 281, 286cable, 30, 94–95, 107, 149, 150chain, 4, 13, 25–26, 27, 30, 51–54,

66, 67, 74, 105, 254crankset, 31derailleur, 30, 105fork, 31, 314freehub, 142–146freewheel, 30, 146housing, 30, 85, 94–95, 151, 152hub, 131–132pedal, 31, 239–240piston, 173, 190quill, 281saddle, 31seatpost, 31, 254, 266, 348shifters, 30wheel, 30

Magnet, 7Master cylinders, 173, 415Master links, 13, 33, 42, 54, 57,

59–60, 61, 63–64, 67, 69, 415Matches, 14, 48Money, 14

patching sidewalls with, 36Morningstar Drumstix tool, 175Morningstar Freehub Buddy, 7, 142,

143, 144Morningstar Freehub Soup, 142,

143, 144Morningstar Rotors on Center (ROC)

dial-indicator tool, 10, 174–175Mounting bolts, 69, 105, 192, 415Mounts

broken, 348disc-brake, 309, 351IS, 159, 313ISCG, 101

Multitools, 12, 38

Needle bearings, 279, 280, 415Newton-meters (N-m), foot-pounds

and, 397Nipples, 124, 127, 290, 292, 293, 294,

307–308, 415tightening/loosening, 125, 299,

300, 301, 302, 303types of, 126, 291, 308

O-rings, 144, 158, 164, 172, 337, 354, 355, 357, 362–363

Off-center rims (OCR), 292, 293, 308



428

Outer legs, 310, 312, 315, 323, 328, 330, 334, 415

Oversteering, 319, 322, 324Overtightening, 259, 272, 275, 393

Pad spacers, 12, 190Pad swing, 182Pad-to-rim adjustment, 176–178,

187, 189, 192Pad twist, 182Parts washer, 7Patch glue, 116Patch kits, 2, 12, 34–35, 36, 116Patches, 35, 36

applying, 116–118Pedal overlap, 385, 415Pedal platforms, 317, 321, 322, 325,

362Pedaling, 308, 311, 317, 322

creaking with, 207, 375knee/joint pain while, 240resistance while, 58, 371stance, 415

Pedals, 235, 415cage-type, 225cartridge-bearing, 238–239clip-in, 225, 226, 227–231,234,

236, 240, 371, 411clunking by, 371Crank Brothers, 228, 229, 230,

234, 238, 239flat, 225installing, 226–227, 239Look, 228, 229, 230, 231, 232–233,

234, 235, 238loose-bearing, 31, 236–237, lubricating, 31, 239–240Onza, 230–231, 238 overhauling, 231–232, 234–239play in, 223, 371release tension for, 227, 229–231,

371removing, 226–227Ritchey, 232, 235, 238, 239Scott, 235Shimano, 231, 232, 234, 235Speedplay, 229, 231, 234, 235, 240Time, 228, 229, 230, 231, 232, 234,

235, 238, 239, 240troubleshooting, 239–240

Pedro’s Green Fizz, 24Pedro’s Ice, 31Pedro’s Syn Lube, 30Phil Wood Tenacious Oil, 145Pin spanners, 7, 29, 215, 216, 221,

415Pistons, 166, 337, 338, 356, 358

cleaning, 172–173disc-brake, 157–158lubricating, 173pushing back, 157–158

Pivot bolts, 415Pivots, 154, 155, 194, 312, 313, 415

bushing, 31derailleur, 69, 79loose, 107lubricating, 152, 190maintaining, 106, 358–359overhauling, 105

Pliers, 2, 14, 37Channel-lock, 6master-link, 7, 63, 64snapring, 6Vise-Grip, 63

Postmounts, 159, 161, 163, 309, 313, 351

PowerLink, 61, 63, 64Preload, 319, 322, 324, 362, 363Preload adjusters, 331, 362,

363–364Press fit systems, 204, 205, 220ProGold ProLink, lubricating with,

51, 67Pulling, problems with, 369Pumps, 2, 12, 35, 124

floor, 120shock, 4, 12, 326

Punctures, 15, 16fixing, 34–36preventing, 33–34snakebite, 34, 35, 120, 124

Quick-release (QR), 416Quick-release (QR) levers, 148, 188Quick-release (QR) seatpost bind-

ers, 248, 388Quick-release (QR) skewers, 20, 22,

34, 45, 139, 142, 342checking, 15installing, 132opening, 17–18removing, 128, 141tightening, 19

Quills, 265, 416lubricating, 281

Race Face, 197, 199, 210, 416Races, 127, 136, 409, 416

fork-crown, 281, 282–284, 285–286

Rags, 4Rattling noises, 287Really tight, 30, 396Reamers, 11Rear triangles, 43, 65, 102, 342, 345,

416Rebound damping, 318, 320–321,

361, 362, 364, 416adjusting, 321, 323, 325, 365, 366

Release tension adjustment, 227, 229–231, 240, 371

Ride height. See SagRim strips, 35, 118, 121Rims, 16, 121, 149, 150, 416

bent, 41, 111brake pads and, 40–41cleaning, 192–193, 303deep-section, 112disc-brake, 301drilling, 308examining, 120off-center, 292, 293, 308replacing, 291scraping, 125, 299, 300spokes and, 124–127tubeless, 293wheelbuilding and, 289, 292, 294

Roller-cam brakes, 17, 150, 190, 191–192, 194, 416

Rotors, 127, 304bent, 175bolting, 160–161cleaning, 193installing/removing, 159–161splined, 159, 160, 161truing, 41–42, 174–175

Rubbing alcohol, 4, 257Rubbing noises, problems with, 373

Saddle height, 240, 243, 248, 388Saddle position, 242, 244, 246, 247,

253, 388–389Saddles, 391, 416

adjusting, 243choosing, 241–242clamping, 245handlebars and, 390installing, 245–246, 247–248lubricating, 31maintaining, 242shape/design of, 242troubleshooting problems with,

253–254Sag, 315, 319, 324, 361, 366, 416

measuring, 316–317, 318


INDEX

429

setting, 362–363Saw guide, 263Scraping noises, problems with, 373Screwdrivers, 12, 42, 43, 45, 46

bent-shaft spoke-nipple, 10 Phillips-head, 2

Sealants, 9, 16, 34, 35, 120, 122–124, 417

aerosol, 123glycol-based, 122, 123latex-based, 122tubeless tires and, 121, 123–124

Seals, 173, 178, 216, 217, 328, 330, 356, 357, 359

bearing, 136, 277cleaning, 354–355installing, 278, 281quad, 355removing, 218, 355square, 158, 355

Seat bags, 33, 42Seat tubes, 45, 80, 82, 248, 249, 254,

367, 416length of, 386, 387

Seatpost clamps, 31, 46, 253lubricating, 254

Seatposts, 241, 243, 384, 389, 417adjusting, 249–251aluminum, 245, 252, 253, 254broken, 47carbon, 245, 251–252Crank Brothers, 249, 250, 251, 388extensions, 244GravityDropper, 249, 250, 251, 388height-adjustable, 249–251, 388installing, 246, 248–249lubricating, 31, 254, 348maintaining, 244–245Maverick, 249, 250, 251position of, 244, 250removing, 46, 244, 248, 251–253single-bolt, 246stuck, 251–253suspension, 244–245, 249, 254troubleshooting problems with,

253–254two-bolt, 246, 247

Seatstays, 23, 65, 349, 367, 417Setscrews, 29, 79, 98, 106, 133, 185,

186, 191, 248, 331, 349Shifters, 92, 95–103, 255

adjusting, 74–80, 83–85derailleurs and, 107dual-lever trigger, 152friction, 413

indexed, 76–78, 414lubricating, 30maintaining, 97–103removing, 258replacing, 90–91, 96Shimano, 77, 88, 96, 177, 416SRAM, 90–91, 95, 107thumb, 87–88, 97, 100, 418troubleshooting, 107–110twist, 90–91, 96–97, 98, 99, 103,

153, 154, 419Shifting, 371

adjusting, 73checking, 16optimizing, 78, 95ramps, 200

Shimano Pedaling Dynamics (SPD), 226

Shimmying, 369Shims, 78, 82, 163, 356, 417Shocks, 310, 356, 358, 363

air, 361, 362coil spring, 361deflating, 353downhill courses and, 365–366elastomer, 361, 362inspecting, 348–349installing, 355maintaining, 352, 353removing, 353–354saddle, 241

Shoes, 225, 228Shop, well-stocked, 9–11Shuddering, while braking, 183Sidewalls, 114

patching, 36, 121, 122, 124Skewers, 133, 135, 417

bolt-on, 18, 20quick-release, 15, 17–18, 19, 20,

22, 34, 45, 128, 132, 139, 141, 142, 342

tightening, 19, 20Slick Honey grease, 251, 335, 355,

357, 359Slime, 34, 417Snug, 29, 395Solvents, 130

citrus, 53, 54, 55, 105, 135, 221, 277, 280

freehubs and, 142, 144using, 26–27, 54

Spacers, 128, 132, 157, 159, 213, 263, 265, 274, 276, 278, 279, 315, 323, 417

adding, 209

internal, 339–340 removing, 129

Spacing, 66, 149, 166, 341, 342, 344, 349

brake pad, 158crank-to-frame, 224pad-to-rotor, 163problems/remedying, 77–78

Spanners, 417pin, 7, 29, 215, 216, 221, 415toothed-lockring, 29

Spiders, 102, 201, 417Spindle removal tool, 6Spindles, 109, 210, 227

bottom-bracket, 66, 203, 209, 211–212, 223

chainrings and, 209installing, 212integrated, 195, 197, 198–199, 203,

204, 205, 216, 217pedal, 6, 227splined, 207square-taper, 207upgrading, 239

Splines, 29, 140, 141, 160, 207, 417Spoke calculator, 290, 291Spoke-prep compound, 291Spoke tension, 10, 124, 292, 301

reducing, 308Spoke-tension gauge, 10Spokes, 76, 290, 417

adjusting, 39, 40, 127, 299, 300, 301, 302, 303

broken, 39–40, 41, 124, 126–127converging parallel, 299crossing, 299, 307derailleurs hitting, 370first set of, 293–294, 305fourth set of, 297–299, 306Kevlar, 40lacing, 289, 294, 296, 297–299 length of, 290prestressing, 302, 303pulling, 293, 303, 308radial, 308replacing, 38–40, 126–127, 291rims and, 124–127second set of, 294–295, 305–306spare, 13, 40thickness, 290, 307–308third set of, 296–297, 306twisted, 125weaving, 126–127

Spoking patterns, 308one-cross, 289, 291, 306–307



430

radial, 291, 293, 303–305three-cross, 289, 291, 297, 304–

306, 418two-cross, 289, 291, 306–307

Spring preload, 318, 319, 324, 363, 417

Spring rate, 318, 319, 320, 324, 362, 365

adjusting, 108, 323, 366Spring tension, 178–179, 191

adjusting, 185–186Springs, 230, 356, 365, 366, 417

air, 251, 314, 324coil, 314, 315, 319, 320, 324–325,

331increasing tension of, 66negative, 326, 327, 363positive, 326removing, 315–316soft, 318stiff, 318

Squeaking noises, 372, 373with saddles, 254

Squealing noises, 373with breaking, 157, 373

Stand-over height, 345, 383, 384, 386, 387, 418

“Stan’s No Tubes” tubeless system, 120–121, 418

Star-nut installation tools, 7, 274Star nuts, 263, 264, 274, 279, 418Steering

axis, 309, 418stiff, 372systems, 111, 255

Steering-tube overlap, 263, 278Steering tubes, 267, 268, 270, 271,

273, 275, 276, 278, 279, 280, 281, 283, 284–285, 309, 310, 311, 418

carbon, 263, 264, 274clamping, 282cutting, 285fork alignment and, 341, 342–343,

344lubricating, 266stripped threads on, 313stuck stems in, 287threaded, 260, 312, 313threadless, 260, 262–265, 312

Stem bolts, 265, 282, 287Stem clamps, 259, 262, 263, 265,

268, 270, 279, 287, 312spreading, 267tightening, 274

Stem length, 263, 285, 388, 390, 418Stem wedges, 265, 270Stems, 255, 260, 262–268, 273, 275,

278, 285, 418adjusting, 262–266, 268, 385broken, 266checking, 16clamp-type, 262, 267front-opening, 258installing, 262–266quill-type, 265, 281, 416removing, 260, 262, 265, 266–268,

280stuck, 266–268, 287suspension, 262torque on, 393troubleshooting, 286–287

Stopscrews, 45, 80Straddle cables, 190–191, 418

adjusting, 184–185Subpins, 57, 59, 60, 61Suspension, 111

aligning, 343cables and, 150fork, 20, 31, 46, 128, 189, 263, 282,

284, 309, 310, 313, 314–315, 317–324, 330, 384, 386

frame, 101–102, 347, 358–361, 368, 386, 389, 390

maintaining, 249problems with, 372rear, 43, 47, 81, 108, 128, 147, 318,

347, 361–365seatpost, 244–245, 249, 254stem, 262tuning, 361–365

Swingarms, 23, 82, 347, 348–349, 351, 358, 363, 367, 418

Syringes, 7, 171, 189, 190, 338

Talcum powder, 2, 118Tension gauge, 66Third Eye Chain Watcher, 110Threadlock compound, 201, 293,

313, 330, 394Threads

fixing damaged, 350prepping/tightening, 27–28

Through-axles, 20–22, 23, 128quick-release, 20, 21removing/installing wheels with,

20Thumb shifters, 97, 100, 418

replacing cable in, 87–88Tight, 29, 395

Tightness, 29–30, 393Tire beads, 114, 115, 119, 120, 121,

418Tire inflators, 13, 267Tire levers, 2, 12, 114, 158, 418Tire pressure, 6, 16, 120, 318Tires

checking, 16, 118deflating, 113, 116, 120, 123, 124diameter of, 375flat, 15, 16, 33–34, 112, 372, 374inflating, 113, 120, 122, 124installing, 36, 118–121removing, 111–112, 114, 115, 342size of, 117standard, 120–121, 122tubeless, 34, 111, 114, 115, 116,

120–121, 122, 123–124Toeclips, 225Toeing in, 183, 191, 193–194Tool kits

Level 1: 1–4, 14Level 2: 1, 4, 6Level 3: 1, 7, 9

Tools, 1, 31, 54, 90, 163, 223, 417carrying/while riding, 11–14, 33,

48Enduro, 218, 219Mavic, 216Phil Wood, 218Shimano, 61, 62, 199, 285terminology of, 72

Top tubes, 387, 388, 419Torque, 199, 200, 419

for fasteners, 396–407 (table)measuring, 393, 395recommendations on, 397setting, 394tightening, 29–30, 395

Triple-clamp forks, 327–328, 330Truing, 41, 124, 127, 303

lateral, 125, 299–301radial, 301side-to-side, 301

Truing stands, 7, 124, 126, 299, 300, 301, 302

Tubes. See Inner tubesTubing cutters, 11Twist shifters, 90–91, 96–97, 98, 99,

103, 153, 154, 419

U-brakes, 16, 22, 148, 190–191, 194, 419

Understeering, 322, 324Undertightening, 393


INDEX

431

V-brakes, 16, 17, 22, 31, 147, 148, 149, 152, 154, 155, 183, 190, 194, 419

adjusting, 176–179installing, 176–179overhauling, 175–180parallel-push, 178, 179

Valve core removers, 7, 357, 358Valve cores, 113, 123, 356, 357Valve extenders, 112, 113Valve stems, 113, 114, 115, 119, 120Valves, 115, 120

broken, 35Presta, 34, 45, 112, 113, 114, 115,

118, 121, 123, 415Schrader, 4, 34, 112, 115, 251, 320,

326, 327, 353, 416Vibrations, braking and, 369Vise, 6, 7Vise grip, 6Vise whips, 7, 138, 139, 141, 142, 419

Wheel-retention devices, 21, 419Wheelbuilding, 40, 289–290, 303,

307–308custom, 289disc-brake, 291front, 291, 293, 294rear, 291, 293

Wheels, 343bent, 38–41, 369for big riders, 307–308centering, 301–303disc-brake, 291, 292, 294, 303,

305–306heavy-duty, 289lubricating, 30prestressing, 302removing/installing, 16, 17–24,

111, 115, 128, 133, 150, 163, 166, 341, 342, 367

straightening, 38–41truing, 40, 124–126, 299–301

Wire, 14Wrenches

adjustable, 2, 37, 113Allen, 29, 409cone, 6, 128, 132crowfoot, 11, 412fixed-cup, 223headset, 6, 14, 274metric, 2, 20open-end/box-end, 2, 12, 29pedal, 13-14, 226socket, 6, 29, 417soft, 7splined, 7, 9, 29spoke, 4, 7, 13, 39, 40, 41, 124,

291, 299torque, 7, 20, 200, 210, 229, 312,

393–394, 419Torx, 6, 12, 29, 42, 201, 202, 419Y-, 9


About the author

Lennard Zinn is a bike racer, frame builder, and technical writer. He grew up cycling, skiing, whitewater

rafting, and kayaking—as well as tinkering with mechanical devices—in Los Alamos, New Mexico. After

receiving his physics degree from Colorado College, he became a member of the U.S. Olympic Development

Cycling Team. He went on to work in Tom Ritchey’s frame-building shop and has been producing custom

mountain, road, and triathlon frames, as well as custom cranks and stems, at Zinn Cycles since 1982

(www.zinncycles.com).

Zinn has been writing for VeloNews since 1989 and is the magazine’s senior technical writer. Other books

by Zinn are Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance (VeloPress, 3rd ed. 2009), Zinn & the Art of Triathlon Bikes

(VeloPress, 2007), Zinn’s Cycling Primer (VeloPress, 2004), Mountain Bike Performance Handbook (MBI, 1998),

and Mountain Bike Owner’s Manual (VeloPress, 1998).

ABOUT THE ILLUSTRATORTodd Telander is a former mechanic and bike racer who devotes most of his time these days to artis-

tic endeavors. He attended the University of California at Santa Cruz, and while earning degrees in

Environmental Studies and Biology, he completed a graduate-level program in scientific illustration.

He has since studied fine art in several western states and was awarded an artist’s residency at Rocky

Mountain National Park. In addition to drawing bike parts, he paints and draws wildlife and landscapes

for publishers, museums, design companies, and individuals. You can see more examples of his work on

his website, www.toddtelander.com.


Also available from VeloPress

Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance3rd EditionLennard Zinn applies his prodigious powers of mechanical expertise to the art and science of road bike repair. Newcomers and experienced mechanics alike will benefit from the book’s hundreds of illustrations (including exploded views of how components go together), its step-by-step instructions for basic and advanced repair, and Zinn’s practical, time-saving maintenance tips. Covers new and old bikes alike.

440 pages • $24.95ISBN 978-1-934030-42-4

Zinn & the Art of Triathlon BikesAerodynamics, Bike Fit, Speed Tuning, and MaintenanceMore than a repair manual, Zinn & the Art of Triathlon Bikes presents proven techniques to wring more speed from today’s triathlon bicycles. With clear advice on bike fit and comfort, getting aero, tuning for speed, and choosing wisely among equipment upgrades, the tips in this book virtually guarantee faster bike splits. Of course, Zinn includes comprehensive maintenance and repair instructions too, accompanied by more than 300 illustrations and step-by-step directions to ensure trouble-free rides.

352 pages • $24.95ISBN 978-1-931382-97-7

Zinn’s Cycling PrimerMaintenance Tips & Skill Building for CyclistsDrawing upon the research of cycling experts around the world, Zinn’s Cycling Primer is a one-stop guide for improving your riding skills. Covering all aspects of road and mountain cycling, Lennard Zinn shows you how to improve your bike fit and bike handling skills, as well as your training and recovery, injury prevention, core strength, and nutrition. Zinn also includes step-by-step instructions for basic road and mountain bike maintenance, repair, and upgrades.

232 pages • $24.95ISBN 978-1-931382-43-4



Documents

Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance...ZINN & THE ART OF MOUNTAIN BIKE MAINTENANCE xiv the chain. Chapter 2 is about the most minimal maintenance your bike requires. Even if