Dart BasicsPage 1

Shaping Up

Darts can be vertical, like on a bodice orskirt; horizontal, like at the elbow; or anyangle in between. They always point to thearea where fullness is needed and there aretwo common types of darts—single- anddouble-point.

A single-point dart (1) is marked on thepattern as a triangle with two angled sides,sometimes called "legs." After stitching,fullness is formed at the point, whichcorresponds to the body curvature, usuallythe bust or hip.

A double-point dart (2) is diamond shape.This type of dart, when used in a garmentfront createsfullness at theends toaccommodateboth the bustand hip; in theback it createsfullness for theshoulderblades andderriere, like ona fitted sheathdress.

Marking

It's important to accurately transfer dartmarkings from the pattern tissue to thegarment fabric and this can be done withchalk, marking paper or tailor's tacks,depending on the fabric. The point of thedart is crucial for fit, and it's usually markedby a dot on the pattern, and the dart legs(sides) are dashed lines, sometimes withone or more intermediate circles formatching. On some patterns, a centerfoldline is also indicated, but for the sake ofclarity this line is often omitted on multi-size patterns.

The easiest way to mark a single dart is byclipping 1/4" into the seamline at the dartleg end, and marking the point with chalkon the fabric wrong side.

Stitching

Stitched darts should showcase a smoothline of stitching and a pucker-free point. Tostitch a single-point dart, fold the fabricright sides together down the center,matching the side markings; pin. Beginningat the wide end of the dart,backstitch to anchor thestitching and sew alongthe marked line, taperingat the point and sewing offthe fold. To secure thepoint, tie threads ends orshorten the stitch length asyou approach the fold.

To stitch a double-pointdart, pin the marked linesright side together, thenbegin at the dart centerand stitch toward eachpoint, slightly overlappingthe stitching at the center(3).

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Because our bodies aren't flat, it's necessary to shape fabric to fit our curves. There areseveral ways to shape a garment, but one of the most common ways is by using darts. Youusually find them at the bustline, hipline, waistline, elbow and shoulder areas on garments,though sometimes they're used to create design lines in other areas as well.

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Dart Basics

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Pressing

Double-point darts need to beclipped to allow them to lie flat whenpressed. Depending on the curvatureof the dart, a single clip may suffice,or more may be needed (4). Single-point darts may be pressed asstitched, or in bulky fabrics, you cantrim some of the bulk for a flatterpress.

It's important to press darts over ashaped pressing ham to avoidflattening the fullness that's beenstitched in. Pressing over a hammaintains a pucker-free point with nobubbles.

Vertical darts are pressed toward the center andhorizontal darts are pressed down, but before pressingin the final direction, press the dart fold as you stitchedit to help flatten it, carefully avoiding the point(s).

On bulky fabrics, the fold of a single dart can be slashedand pressed open for a flatter finish. If the fabric isloosely woven, zigzag the edges to prevent raveling.

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