p. 93
p. 32
p. 48p. 70
p. 72
p. 65
p. 67
p. 69
p. 91
june 2014
bonappetit.com
F e at u r e s
64
summer 1, 2, 3Step one: Pick up perfect produce. Step two: Blow minds. Our summertime-and-the-living’s-easy guide to cooking (or not!) the best the season has to ofer.by julia kramer; recipes by alison roman
72
into the wildRich, meaty, real-deal wild salmon is a fleeting treat—yeah, it’s seasonal!—and Seattle chef Renee Erickson has six ways to savor it.
82
sqirl powrForget giant scones. L.A.’s coolest café is dishing up the future of restaurant food— and we can’t get enough of it.by matt duckor
92
Cherry bombIt may not be a classic yet, but trust us, our recipe for sour cherry pie is about to be the most stained page in this magazine.recipe by alison roman
94
all quiet on the western frontChristopher Kostow, the celebrated yet stealth chef, taps into Napa Valley’s true terroir.by chris ying
on the coVer
Sour Cherry Pie (for recipe, see page 93).Photograph by Gentl & Hyers. Food styling by Susie Theodorou. Prop styling by Angharad Bailey.
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HaVe a QuestION aBOut a reCIPe, Or a COMMeNt? E-mail us at [email protected], or contact the editorial ofices: Bon Appétit, 4 Times Square, New York, NY 10036. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS AND CHANGES OF ADDRESS, call 800-765-9419 (515-243-3273 from outside the U.S.A.) or e-mail [email protected]. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
Driftwood isn’t the only beautiful thing ofered up by the waters of the Pacific Northwest.
P. 72
june
B o n A p p É t i t • V o l u m e 5 9 n u m B e r 6
Jewel-like greens from the gardens at Napa’s
Restaurant at Meadowood.
P. 94p
ho
to
gr
ap
h b
y p
ed
en
+ m
un
k
B o n A p p e t i t . c o m
19
the BA arsenalBerries. Cream. Period.
20
the ChallengeSpinach: strong yet flexible.
22
we’re into itOur sun-loving staf’s beach-picnic
essentials.
24
the BA q&aSir Patrick Stewart on backstage potlucks and quiet time white wine.by alison rosen
26
the BA CheCklistBoutique veggie boxes, spotlight on squid, and more June musts.
28
the foodistAndrew Knowlton’s Father’s Day fantasy. (Yes, there is booze.)
32
the drinkWhy cofee cocktails have us buzzing.
sta rt e r s
35
fast, easy, freshSimple summery meals.by alison roman
44
the seasonal CooksCanal House dresses up the season’s great greens.by melissa
hamilton
and christopher
hirsheimer
48
the partyFire up your next fête with incendiary hot chicken from Nashville’s own Hattie B’s.
t H e ba k I tC H e N
14
r.s.V.p.Reader requests and editor favorites.
56
naVigatorBarcelona’s modest modern side.by geraldine
campbell
107
prep sChoolRavishing radishes, magical mayo, and much more.
114
baCk of the napkinCeeLo Green on his “intimate” food feelings.by alison rosen
C O lu M N s
in eVery issue 8 @bonappetit 12 editor’s letter 111 recipe index 111 sourcebook
6 bonappetit.com • JUne 2014
june
ph
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s:
Da
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im (
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8 bonappetit.com • JUne 2014
F I N D , F O L L O W , A N D C O N N E C T W I T H U S O N L I N E
adam goldberg, the globe-hopping gourmand behind @alifewortheating,
takes over the BA instagram feed this month with photos from his most
recent travels. his insatiable appetite might lead him to tokyo, stockholm,
or deepest brooklyn. follow along with envy at @bonappetitmag.
Hot Dogs
nothing screams
“u.s.a.! u.s.a.!”
like this classic.
Morcilla
this bold blood
sausage is a
staple of spain.
cHorizo
mexico’s zesty
link of choice.
pair with beans!
Kolbasa
mother russia
likes this one with
braised cabbage.
bratwurst
a grilled brat and
a beer? gotta
be in germany.
Merguez
repping
algeria, lamb
with a spicy kick.
the FiFa World cup begins June 12
in brazil. we’re celebrating with a World
Cup of Sausage on bonappetit.com.
our experts break down each country’s
finest encased meat: chorizo,
landjäger, finocchiona—whatever they
call it. at right, a little pregame action.
linK bait
“How to create a @bonappetit recipe: just add za’atar and/
or aleppo pepper and top with Maldon sea salt. DONE!”
Think you’ve got Instagram
game? Hashtag
your posts #bareaders,
and we’ll round up
our favorite captures on bonappetit
.com.
The Inbox
We love your tough-but-fair Facebook comments, excited-
and-occasionally-outraged tweets, and—best of all—
actual letters! Here are a few of our favorite notes this month:
“Panini is already plural. It does not automatically become an English word
in need of an s to denote there are more than one.”
—@TweeTs_R_BeaT
“I cook salmon skin-side down. When almost half
done, pour enough vermouth to cover pan bottom.
Put on a lid and wait about two minutes and it will be
cooked perfectly.”
—JaneTTe H., via FaceBook, addRessing ouR lisT oF
common salmon misTakes
—nancy s., via FaceBook, adding To ouR lisT oF
common Food misspellings
instagram takeover
Previously, in Instagram
takeovers: Wolfgang
Puck and April Bloomfield
#TBT
Thinly pounded,
deep- fried chicken
cutlet sandwiches
are the lunch of
choice at the market in Pueblo,
Mexico.
published by condé nast
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Vice President–Scripted TV gina marChesChi Vice President–Branded Content & Sales Marketing anissa e. frey
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Editor in Chief
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anna Wintour
what’s the best
father’s day
gift you’ve ever
received?
“‘the free Pass,’ as my wife
calls it. she watches our son, i watch the
final round of the u.s. open for five straight
hours. glorious.”
—A.R.
“i love it whenever my kids
make me something crafty. for example, i won’t leave home
without my duct-tape business-card
holder.”
—G.F.
“Breakfast made by my
three daughters, the oldest of
whom was 12 at the time.”
—T.W.
“i’m new to this father’s
day thing—my kids are almost three and one— but the best thing i’ve
gotten to date is the gift of sleep! an extra hour
of nap time is like a daddy spa day.”
—A.S.
P h o t o g r a P h b y c h r i s t i n a h o l m e s
fo
od
st
yl
ing
by
su
sa
n s
pu
ng
en
. p
ro
p s
ty
lin
g b
y k
al
en
ka
min
sk
i.
12 bonappetit.com • JUne 2014
editor’s letter
adam rapoport
editor in chief
follow
adam on
twitter and
instagram at
@rapo4
For easier beer retrieval,
add a little water to your
cooler.
If you were to drop by the Bon Appétit ofces at, say, 5 p.m. on a Thursday, it might feel more like a backyard barbecue than a workplace. You’d catch creative director Alex Grossman dipping into my fridge for a well-chilled American beer (I like to keep it classic, and real cold), while restaurant and drinks editor Andrew Knowlton mixes a highball and lectures me on the need for artisanal bitters. At some point, Alison Roman or Dawn Perry might come up from the test kitchen with a tray of hot-and-crispy this or creamy-and-tangy that, and take up Knowlton on his standing drink ofer.
Now, I’m not saying every ofce can or should operate like a T.G.I. Fridays. But I do know that when you work behind a desk, you spend the majority of your waking hours in the ofce—even in summer. So at BA, we try to make the most of it. Yes, we work plenty hard, but if there’s a going-away party or a birthday, we’ll absolutely pull out the Coleman cooler. And there will be a discussion about how to properly stock it (beer frst, then ice) and whether or not to add water (defnitely—it helps loosen things up, making for easy bottle withdrawal). And then, if the snacks are of the bagged variety, debates will likely ensue about the virtues of Nacho Cheese versus Cool Ranch.
At some point during the summer, most of BA’s editors will escape to the shore for a week to stoke the grill, fry up some crazy-hot chicken (page 48), and maybe bake a cherry pie (page 92). But mostly we’ll hunker down here in Times Square and make a magazine. And we’re good with that. We’re a staf that writes about food and drink, so we eat what we preach—no matter where we are.
T H I S I S S U M M E R
Ill
us
tr
at
Ion
s B
Y l
ar
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Jo
st
14 bonappetit.com • JUne 2014
r.s.v.p. ReadeRs’ FavoRite RestauRant Recipes
These dishes look as good as
they sound. We have
photos on our app and at
bonappetit .com/rsvp to prove it.
SHRIMP WITH MuSTaRd-
LIMe dIPPING SauCe
4 servings Cooking the shrimp with their
shells on helps them retain flavor; scoring
them along the back lets you remove
the vein and makes peeling easier. Win-win.
shrimp
1 ½ lb. shell-on large shrimp
Kosher salt
¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. Old Bay
seasoning
3 lemons, halved
2 Tbsp. olive oil
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh flat-leaf
parsley
mustard-lime dipping sauce
½ cup mayonnaise
2 Tbsp. spicy brown mustard
1 tsp. fresh lime juice
1 tsp. honey
1 tsp. light brown sugar
½ tsp. English mustard powder
½ tsp. Worcestershire sauce
Hot sauce
Kosher salt
Lime wedges (for serving)
shrimp using kitchen shears and working
one at a time, cut along the length of
the backs of shrimp, cutting through shells
and just deep enough into flesh to expose
veins; remove veins.
Bring a large saucepan of salted water
to a boil and add ¼ cup old Bay seasoning.
squeeze lemon juice into water and add
lemon halves to saucepan; return water to
a boil. add shrimp, reduce heat, and simmer
until cooked through, about 3 minutes.
deaR Bon Appétit, My girlfriend and i are
obsessed with the peel ’n’ eat shriMp
at SoN of a GuN in los angeles, but we have
no idea how they Make theM. please help! —Landon Lewis, Los Angeles
THe eLvIS
makes 1 Bitter notes from grapefruit and ale
balance the floral sweetness of the gin and
liqueur—one sip and it will all make sense.
3 oz. fresh pink grapefruit juice
1 ½ oz. London dry gin
¼ oz. St-Germain (elderflower liqueur)
India Pale Ale (for serving)
Grapefruit twist (for serving)
combine grapefruit juice, gin, and liqueur
in a cocktail shaker. Fill shaker with ice
and shake until outside of shaker is frosty,
about 30 seconds. strain into a rocks
glass filled with ice and top off with ale.
Garnish with grapefruit twist.
deaR Bon Appétit,
I’ve been thinking about the Elvis beer cocktail from Town in Carbondale, Co, since I tried it last summer. It’s all of my favorite things in one drink! —CharLotte stoniCh, Los Angeles
transfer to a bowl of ice water and let cool.
drain and pat dry.
Just before serving, whisk oil and
remaining 1 tbsp. old Bay in a medium bowl.
add shrimp and parsley and toss to coat.
do ahead: shrimp can be cooked 1 day
ahead. cover and chill.
mustard-lime dipping sauce
Whisk mayonnaise, brown mustard, lime
juice, honey, brown sugar, mustard powder,
and Worcestershire sauce in a medium bowl;
season with hot sauce and salt. serve
shrimp with dipping sauce and lime wedges.
“the combo of creamy labneh and
pufed quinoa in the grain salad at Betony
in nyC strikes a perfect balance.”
BA sta f f P i c k
C l a i r e Sa f f i tz
Ass i stA n t Fo o d E d i to r
GRaIN SaLad WITH Puffed Red QuINoa aNd LaBNeH6 servings If pufing the quinoa feels like
too much, swap in some chopped toasted
nuts to get a similar crunchy texture.
1 ½ cups cooked red quinoa
(from about ½ cup dried)
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
¼ tsp. sugar
½ cup olive oil, plus more
3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, plus more
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
½ large shallot, finely chopped
3 Tbsp. chopped fresh chives
3 cups cooked grains (such as farro,
amaranth, bulgur, and/or barley;
from about 1 cup dried)
¾ cup labneh (Lebanese strained
yogurt) or plain Greek yogurt
3 cups mild sprouts (such as
pea and/or sunflower), divided
Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon)
preheat oven to 200°. spread out ½ cup
cooked quinoa on a rimmed baking sheet
and bake, tossing once, until quinoa is dry
and no longer sticks together, 30–45 minutes.
Heat vegetable oil in a large saucepan
over medium-high heat until almost smoking
(oil needs to be very hot). Remove from
heat, add dried quinoa, and quickly cover.
cook, shaking saucepan vigorously, just until
quinoa is pufed, which will happen almost
immediately. transfer quinoa to paper towels
to drain.
Whisk sugar, ½ cup olive oil, and 3 tbsp.
lemon juice in a medium bowl; season
with kosher salt and pepper. toss in shallot,
chives, cooked grains, remaining 1 cup
cooked quinoa, and half of pufed quinoa;
season with kosher salt and pepper.
spread labneh on plates. top with salad,
sprouts, and remaining pufed quinoa. drizzle
with oil and lemon juice; season with sea salt.
r.s.v.p.
deaR Bon Appétit,
the Spice Island Tea House in Pittsburgh makes the most incredible semolina cake. I haven’t been able to find a recipe that is anything like it. —dorey wheaLan-BueLL, Pittsburgh
BuRMeSe SeMoLINa Cake 12 servings Semolina flour is ground from
durum wheat and is usually used to make
pasta; toasting it deepens its flavor, and its
fine grain yields a tender, custardy cake.
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted, cooled
slightly, divided, plus more
1 ¼ cups semolina flour
1 large egg
1 14-oz. can coconut milk
1 ½ cups half-and-half
⅓ cup sugar
1 tsp. kosher salt
Coconut ice cream and toasted
unsweetened coconut flakes
(for serving)
preheat oven to 425°. Butter an 8x8" baking
dish. toast semolina in a large dry skillet over
medium-high heat, stirring, until darkened
and nutty-smelling, about 2 minutes. Let cool.
Whisk egg, coconut milk, half-and-half,
sugar, salt, and 1 tbsp. butter in a large
saucepan. Gradually whisk in semolina and
bring mixture to a boil over medium-high
heat, whisking, until mixture is very thick and
pulls away from the sides of saucepan, about
4 minutes. scrape batter into baking dish.
Bake cake until golden brown and a
tester inserted into the center comes out
clean, 45–50 minutes. transfer dish to a
wire rack. Brush cake with remaining 1 tbsp.
butter; let cool slightly. serve with coco-
nut ice cream, topped with coconut flakes.
do ahead: cake can be baked 1 day
ahead; cover and chill.
Want us to get a restaurant recipe for you? E-mail us at [email protected]. Submissions become the property of Bon Appétit.Il
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JUNE 2014 • boNappEtit.com 19
gU
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P h o t o g r a P h b y m i c h a e l g r a y d o n + n i k o l e h e r r i o t t
When berries are peaking, they rarely see the inside of my fridge. at the farmers’ market,
i handle comparison shopping by buying twice what i can carry. Some are devoured on site:
“mom, no one will know these even existed,” my younger son says as we shove blueberries
into our mouths. the walk home is all shortcake fantasies and cobbler dreams, but as i unpack
the containers, reality sets in. No baking today. instead, i tumble raspberries and blackberries
onto dishes, splash them with thick, cold heavy cream, and add a drizzle of maple syrup.
We sit on the stoop and eat them just like this, a sweet and fleeting feast. —Carla lalli MusiC
Still have leftovers? Find out the best
way to store your berries in Prep
School, page 110.
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WhErE GREAT TASTE bEgiNS
j u n e 201 4
the BA
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20 bonappetit.com • june 2014
gu
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P h o t o g r a P h s b y d a n n y k i m
fo
od
st
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by
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by
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.
Tender stems are fine to eat, but
thicker stalks can be tough and stringy, even
when cooked. To remove quickly,
gather the whole bunch in one
hand and cut of woody parts in a
single move.
choP
shoP
Crispy shallots
Minty sPinach DiP
“A serving of
spinach disguised
as dip and an
excuse to eat pita
chips? Sold!”
—Dawn Perry,
senior food editor
Cook 1 trimmed
bunch flat-leaf
spinach in a pot
of boiling salted
water until wilted,
about 30 seconds;
drain and run under
cold water. Drain
well, squeeze out
as much liquid as
possible, and finely
chop. Mix spinach
with 1 thinly sliced
scallion, ¾ cup
sour cream, and 2
Tbsp. chopped
fresh mint; season
with salt and
pepper. Let sit at
room temperature
at least 15 minutes.
Serve with crudités
or pita chips.
4 servings
Tingly mint
Juicy melon
sPinach salaD
with Dates
“It’s everything
I want in a salad:
sweet, crunchy,
and bright.”
—Claire Safitz,
assistant food editor
Blend 2 pitted
dates, ⅓ cup
vegetable oil, 1 tsp.
finely grated lime
zest, and ¼ cup lime
juice in a blender
until smooth;
season with salt and
pepper. Heat ¼ cup
vegetable oil in a
medium saucepan
over medium-high
heat and cook
4 thinly sliced large
shallots, stirring
often, until golden
brown and crisp,
5–7 minutes; drain
on paper towels
and season with
salt. Toss 1 trimmed
bunch flat-leaf
spinach and ¾ cup
chopped dates with
dressing. Top with
shallots. 4 servings
Eat Your Spinach
run through a juicer, folded into party dip,
or served in an updated salad, the original “leafy
green” shows us its muscles (and its versatility)
sPinach-honeyDew cooler
“i’ll juice just about any green, but spinach is my go-to.
melon just sweetens the deal.”
—Alison Roman, senior associate food editor
Pass 1 bunch flat-leaf spinach, 2 cups cut-up honeydew
melon, and ½ lemon (peel and white pith removed) through
a juicer. serve over ice. (or, blend spinach and melon in
a blender, strain, and stir in 2 Tbsp. lemon juice.) Makes 2
The Challenge
gu
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22 bonappetit.com • june 2014 P h o t o g r a P h s b y Z a c h d e s a r t ad
dit
ion
al
ma
rk
et
by
mo
nik
a b
ieg
le
r e
ye
rs
. il
lu
st
ra
tio
n b
y c
la
ire
mc
cr
ac
ke
n.
1
Andrew
Knowlton
restaurant ed.
“I’m loving the
slightly effervescent
Ameztoi Txakolina
Rosato Rubentis
2012 rosé: It goes
with everything from
potato salad to cold
fried chicken.
Best of all, it’s got
a screwcap.”
$24; bottlerocket.com
2
CArlA lAlli
MusiC
food & features ed.
“My dream beach
outing involves
blue skies, gentle
waves, and
me crushing the
competition with
my ultrachic beach
tennis set.”
$140; fredericks andmae.com
3
Christine
MuhlKe
executIve ed.
“You can take a
blanket to the
beach, so why not
a duvet? steven
alan does such
good stripes; this
deserves to make
it out of the house.”
$149/queen size; westelm.com
4
Alex GrossMAn
creatIve dIr.
“Most umbrellas
stink. this titanium
one is light and
indestructible, and
the built-in
vents keep it from
blowing away.”
$90; coolibar.com
5
dAnielle wAlsh
assocIate weB ed.
“this stylish Tom
Black folding deck
chair reminds
me of the original
Barbie swimsuit.”
$245; lestoiles dusoleilnyc.com
6
stACey riverA
dIgItal dIr.
“My Fitzgerald Bag
holds everything:
toys, extra towels,
bathing suits—and
the square bottom
keeps it standing
upright in the sand.”
$265; luludklifestyle.com
A Day at the...
What do you pack for a trip to the shore?
From a comfy chair to the right wine,
our stafers share their beach-picnic essentials
by Joanna Sciarrino
4
3
2
6
1
5
The one thing always in our bag?
An egg sandwich.
Get the recipe at
bonappetit .com/beach
sandwich.
We’ re Into It
24 bonappetit.com • june 2014 P h o t o g r a P h b y b o r u o ’ b r i e n o ’ c o n n e l l
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So what’s the last thing you ate?
“An unconventional Cobb salad at Stone
Park Cafe in Brooklyn. It had a poached
egg surrounded by a crisp, deep-fried
breadcrumb shell. When I cut into it,
the yolk ran into the lettuce.”
What flavors do you love? “Savory
and intense. I’m English, and all English-
men are addicted to Marmite. My wife
[American singer Sunny Ozell] would
rather think it’s not in her kitchen.”
What repulses you? “Cooked mushrooms.
They’re slimy and old-tasting.”
Booze of choice. “Chivas and soda on
the rocks. Plain and simple.”
How do you take your coffee? “I used to
be a traditionalist—Kona Gold in a drip
maker—but I’m afraid I have fallen for the
new fashion of instant: We have a Keurig.
It’s fantastic. I like a little milk, no sugar.”
Tell us a childhood food memory. “Well, i was born in 1940. my father was
serving in the army, but when the war
was over we went away for a day to the
seaside. My father popped into a store,
and when he came out, he told me to
close my eyes. He put something in my
hand that felt so weird, I snatched my
hand away. I looked down, and on the
sidewalk was this yellowy-pinky furry-
looking fruit. It was a peach! It was the
most exotic taste I’d ever experienced.”
What’s in your greenroom? “Yorkshire
Gold tea, fruit, and chocolate digestive
biscuits. But most important: bottles
of white wine in the refrigerator. There
is nothing nicer than coming ofstage,
opening one, and sitting quietly.”
Any backstage food traditions?
“On Sunday afternoons, the crew, staf,
wig department, and even the actors
bring in homemade dishes. We set up a
picnic table under the stage, and every-
one shares brunch. I bring my wife’s
sea-salt brownies. They’re very popular.”
Who’s on your dream dinner party guest list? “President Obama and
his wife; Shakespeare; Marlon Brando;
jennifer Lawrence; randy newman;
and though he might make trouble, the
late Harold Pinter and his wife. That
sounds like a pretty good dinner party.”
—IntervIew by AlIson rosen
q u e s t i o n s f o r
10
Sir Patrick StewartThe theater legend and X-Men:
Days of Future Past star is all about Marmite, Keurig machines,
and his wife’s sea-salt brownies
For a video of Stewart talking boiled sheep heads, go to bonappetit.com/celebs
My wife makes the most sensational risotto. In trufle season, she shaves white trufles over it.”
LAST MEAL ON EARTH
pr
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by
am
y W
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on
. W
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ty
Lin
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om
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by
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e a
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xc
Lu
siv
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ist
s f
or
sis
Le
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pa
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on
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The BA Q&A
26 bonappetit.com • june 2014
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Cocktails by the Pintthe june Summer
Cocktail Series from
ice cream gods Salt
& Straw combines
two things we love
about portland, or:
craft cocktails and
a chill, collaborative
vibe. For each of its
five boozy-delicious
flavors, the dairy
whizzes teamed
with a diźerent pDX
bartender—like
imperial’s brandon
Wise on chocolate
chip mint julep.
$65 for five pints;
saltandstraw.com
S C O O P
To mak squid at home, simply seaso wt salt ad pepper, grill,
ad serv wt a lemo wege.
Our New Healthy Cooking Bibleottolenghi fans, take note: Diana Henry’s bright
and beautiful recipes in A Change of Appetite
(mitchell beazley; $35) nail the flavors and ingredients
we’re craving these days. Fava bean purée and
cumin flatbread, hot-smoked salmon with rye berries,
gooseberry-almond spelt cake—we’re coming for you.
o r D e r
Seriously Elevated Plane FoodFinally, an airline
doing mealtime
right. JetBlue’s Mint
class, which begins
this month on the
jFK–LaX route, has
a menu adapted
from nYc’s Saxon
+ parole. Dishes
include corn soup
with huitlacoche
or beets three ways
(roasted, shaved,
pickled). From $599
one-way (including
a lie-flat seat!), it’s
a worthy indulgence.
jetblue.com
r e a D
Cult Vegetablesever wonder where thomas Keller
and grant achatz get their pristine,
unusual produce? the answer
is the Chef’s Garden, Lee jones’s
farm in Huron, oH. but here’s the
crazy thing: You can get the same
broccoli rabe blooms, pea shoots,
edible flowers, and more year-round
by ordering a box (hello, host gift!)
or joining the monthly cSa. $30
or $45 per box; farmerjonesfarm.com
S c o r e
C
H
E
C
K
L
I
S
T
T
H
E
everything you need to
eat, read, buy, and lick this month
e m b r ac e
Cephalopod ManiaWith chefs everywhere name-
checking montereys and port
judiths, one thing is clear: 2014
is the summer of squid. Chef
michael cimarusti cooks more
than 200 pounds a week at
connie and ted’s in Los angeles;
jeremy Sewall of boston’s
row 34 pairs it with pea-greens
pesto and Fresno chiles.
pH
ot
og
ra
pH
S:
Da
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Y K
im (
ice
cr
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m,
ve
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ta
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e b
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oo
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HiL
ar
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/ge
tt
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ma
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S (
Sq
uiD
)
P h o t o g r a P h s b y d a n n y k i m28 bonappetit.com • june 2014
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6 a.m.
Wake up early
and spend the
morning reading
The New Yorker
in my seersucker
Sleepy Jones
pajamas ($293;
sleepyjones.com).
10 a.m.
You shouldn’t
have! My family
gives me a Garmin
Forerunner 620
watch ($450; garmin
.com), and it’s of
for a run over the
Brooklyn Bridge.
7:30 a.m.
Watch ESPN
SportsCenter while
my daughters make
me biscuits stufed
with jimmy Dean
sausage (judge
away!) and slathered
with honey butter.
NooN
A picnic in the park
with my ladies. It
includes pimiento
cheese sandwiches,
grandma utz’s
potato chips, Ibérico
de bellota ham, and
Basque dry cider.
My Perfect Father’s Day
For 364 days of the year, I’m at the mercy
of my family and career. But there’s one day I get to do exactly
what I want. Here’s how it should go down
2 p.m.
Go biking
with my older
daughter, julep,
on her new Linus.
3 p.m.
Chill in a hammock on the Chattahoochee,
while listening to a Braves game on the radio.
But wait—this is Brooklyn. A patch of
park grass and a Mets game will have to do.
5 p.m.
Back at home, crack some ice for a
50-50 Martini: half gin, half dry vermouth,
a few drops of orange bitters, and a
grapefruit twist. Always stir, never shake.
5:30 p.m.
The ultimate
Father’s Day feast?
Pan-fried chicken
from The Gift
of Southern Cooking,
Anson Mills white
hominy grits, my
mom’s green beans,
buttery mashed
potatoes, more
biscuits, and spicy
pickled okra.
7 p.m.
Build Lego tree
houses with my kids
and then read them
james thurber’s
Many Moons. We all
fall asleep together.
9 p.m.
Wake up. Binge
on season four of
Game of Thrones.
midNight
Fall asleep again,
this time on the
couch—just like my
dad does.
This baby tracks
distance, heart rate, route, and
calories burned.
The Lil’ Dutchi ($319;
linusbike.com)
These beans should be
superporky and slow-cooked
until soft. ph
ot
og
ra
ph
: c
ou
rt
es
y l
inu
s b
ike
(b
icy
cl
e).
Fo
oD
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by
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ris
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nie
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pr
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by
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cc
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.
FOODISTThe
Follow Andrew Knowlton on Instagram @andrewoknowlton
dad edition
To get Donna Knowlton’s green
beans recipe, go to bonappetit.com
/greenbeans
32 bonappetit.com • june 2014
gu
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fo
od
st
yl
ing
by
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iso
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tt
en
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pr
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yl
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ar
ad
ba
ile
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ill
us
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at
ion
by
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cc
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. f
or
mo
re
de
ta
ils
, s
ee
so
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bo
ok
.
P h o t o g r a P h b y m i c h a e l g r a y d o n + n i k o l e h e r r i o t t
All the Buzz
What happens when baristas and
bartenders get together? Coffee
cocktails, that’s what. here, three
of summer’s coolest, most cafeinated
concoctionsby Joanna Sciarrino
Every great cofee cocktail starts with an excellent cold brew. Hats of to Kickstand in L.A. and Slingshot Cofee Company in Raleigh, NC, but our favorite comes from Stumptown. The
bicoastal roaster wins hearts with its double-
filtered, ready-to-drink “stubbies”—no dilution necessary.
$4 for 12 oz.; stumptowncofee
.com for stores
cold
comfort
Prefer D.I.Y. cold brew? Get
the recipe at bonappetit.com
/coldbrew
Don’t be afraid to customize this cocktail.
Soy milk, almond milk, half-and-
half—it all works.
Dublin Iced Cofee
Soda & Swine,
San diego
A delicious mix
of caffeine,
dessert, and
danger.
Mix 2 oz. strong
cold-brew cofee,
2 oz. stout
(such as AleSmith
Speedway or
guinness), 1 ½ oz.
Irish whiskey,
and ¾ oz. simple
syrup in a highball
glass. Add ice to
fill. Gently pour in
½ oz. heavy cream
so it gradually
sinks into cofee;
sprinkle with
freshly grated
cinnamon.
Makes 1
Cafè Shakerato
BA teSt Kitchen
To take this
Italian classic in a
mocha direction,
add 1 oz. choco-
late syrup (we
like Monin brand
best) and cut
down the simple
syrup to ½ oz.
Combine 2 oz.
strong cold-brew
cofee and 1 oz.
simple syrup in
a cocktail shaker.
Fill shaker with
ice and shake
vigorously (this
is important;
you really want to
agitate the cofee)
until outside is
frosty and drink
is light and frothy,
about 1 minute.
Strain into
a small tumbler.
Makes 1
Alive and Kicking
Planter’S houSe,
St. louiS
For a simplified
version, skip
the Fernet and
increase the
amaro to 1 ¾ oz.
Combine
1 oz. strong cold-
brew cofee,
1 oz. Fernet, ¾ oz.
amaro (preferably
barolo chinato),
¾ oz. Compass
Box Whisky Co.
Orangerie or Grand
Marnier, and ¼ oz.
demerara simple
syrup in a cocktail
shaker. Fill shaker
with ice and shake
vigorously until
outside is frosty,
about 30 seconds.
Strain into a coupe
glass. Garnish with
an orange twist.
Makes 1
The Drink
P h o t o g r a P h s b y c h r i s t i n a h o l m e s JUNE 2014 • boNappEtit.com 35
W h a t t o c o o k r i g h t n o W : r e c i p e s , t i p s , a n d m e n u i d e a s f r o m o u r e x p e r t s
BA
F a s t , E a s y, F r E s h
Kick of your summer with steak tacos brightened by a crunchy new salsa, and speedy scallops with burst tomatoes
B y A l i s o n R o m A n
S i m p l y S u m m e r
To char tortillas, warm
them over a grill or stove-top gas burner. For the taco recipe,
see page 40.
36 boNappEtit.com • JUNE 2014
FA sT, E A sy, F R E s H
W e e k n i g h t f a v o r i t e s
Crushed Beets with Lemon Vinaigretteactive 30 minutes total 1 hour 20 minutes
4 servings This two-part cooking
technique adds layers of texture—a
creamy inside and a crisp outside.
2 lb. mixed small or medium beets
(such as chioggia, red, and/or
golden), scrubbed
6 tbsp. olive oil, divided, plus more
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
2 tbsp. finely grated lemon zest
2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
¼ cup (lightly packed) fresh mint
leaves, plus more
2 tbsp. torn fresh dill, plus more
½ cup labneh (lebanese strained
yogurt) or plain greek yogurt
Flaky sea salt (such as maldon)
Preheat oven to 400°. Divide beets
between 2 large sheets of foil. Drizzle
beets on each sheet with ½ Tbsp. oil;
season with kosher salt and pepper and
wrap up foil around beets. Roast on a
rimmed baking sheet until tender, 40–50
minutes. Let cool slightly, then, using a
paper towel, rub skins from beets (they
should slip of easily). Crush beets with
the bottom of a small bowl (it’s alright if
they fall apart).
Meanwhile, whisk lemon zest, lemon
juice, and 2 Tbsp. oil in a large bowl; set
vinaigrette aside.
Heat 3 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet over
medium-high heat. Add beets, season with
kosher salt and pepper, and cook until
browned, about 4 minutes per side. Transfer
to bowl with vinaigrette, add ¼ cup mint
and 2 Tbsp. dill, and toss to coat. Serve
beets and dollops of labneh drizzled with
more oil, topped with more herbs,
and seasoned with pepper and sea salt.
calories 300 fat 22 g fiber 7 g »
wE’vE got a crush
For a totally new take on beets, just smash ’em. The flat surface gets nice and crispy in a hot skillet
A swoosh of luscious (and trendy) labneh adds
richness.for complEtE NUtritioNal
iNformatioN for thE rEcipEs iN this
story, go to bonappetit.com/recipes
40 boNappEtit.com • JUNE 2014
Scallops with Hazelnuts and Warm Sun Gold Tomatoesactive 20 minutes total 20 minutes
4 servings See Prep School on page 110
for a mini-primer on searing scallops.
¼ cup coarsely chopped skin-on
hazelnuts
3 tbsp. olive oil, divided
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
1 ½ lb. large sea scallops, side muscle
removed, patted dry
1 pint sun gold or grape tomatoes
1 small shallot, finely chopped
1 tbsp. white wine vinegar
2 tbsp. fresh tarragon leaves
Preheat oven to 350°. Toast hazelnuts on a
rimmed baking sheet, tossing occasionally,
until golden brown, 8–10 minutes. Toss with
1 Tbsp. oil; season with salt and pepper.
L i g h t n i n g - Fa st d i n n E r s
It’s too nice out to spend all day at the stove. Choose quick-cooking proteins like scallops and skirt steak, then add summer’s best ingredients
Meanwhile, heat remaining 2 Tbsp. oil
in a large cast-iron or nonstick skillet over
medium-high heat until almost smoking.
Season scallops with salt and pepper; cook
until golden brown and just cooked through,
about 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate.
Pour of most liquid in skillet. Add tomatoes
and shallot, season with salt and pepper,
and cook, tossing, until some tomatoes have
burst, about 4 minutes. Mix in vinegar and
serve with scallops topped with tarragon and
hazelnuts. calories 310 fat 16 g fiber 2 g
Steak Tacos with Cilantro-Radish Salsaactive 20 minutes total 20 minutes
4 servings Radishes make a crunchy salsa
for these—or any other taco you’re serving
this summer. Our farmers’ market guide to
radish varieties is in Prep School on page 108.
2 tbsp. vegetable oil, divided
1 lb. skirt or flank steak
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
½ cup fresh cilantro leaves with tender
stems, divided
4 radishes, trimmed, chopped
2 spring onions or 4 scallions,
white and pale-green parts only,
thinly sliced
½ serrano chile or jalapeño, seeds
removed if desired, finely chopped
2 tbsp. fresh lime juice
8 corn tortillas, warmed
2 oz. queso fresco or cotija cheese,
crumbled
Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet over high
heat. Season steak with salt and pepper and
cook about 5 minutes per side for medium-
rare. Let steak rest 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, chop half of cilantro and
toss with radishes, onions, chile, lime juice,
and remaining 1 Tbsp. oil in a medium bowl.
Season radish salsa with salt and pepper.
Slice steak and serve on tortillas
topped with radish salsa, queso fresco, and
remaining cilantro.
calories 440 fat 21 g fiber 3 g
A very short shopping
list morphs into a very
elegant meal.
FA sT, E A sy, F R E s H
W e e k n i g h t f a v o r i t e s
Green Minestrone
active 30 minutes total 30 minutes
4 servings Adding the veggies in phases,
from longest cooking first to fastest
last, guarantees the ideal texture for each.
6 tbsp. olive oil, divided
1 leek, white and pale-green parts
only, chopped
½ small fennel bulb, finely chopped
½ small yellow onion, finely chopped
2 celery stalks, thinly sliced
4 cups low-sodium vegetable or
chicken broth
2 small carrots, peeled, thinly sliced
lengthwise on a mandoline
1 cup fresh shelled peas or fava
beans (from about 1 lb. pods)
or frozen
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
½ cup fregola, ditalini, or other
tiny pasta
1 ½ cups (lightly packed) fresh flat-leaf
parsley leaves
½ shallot, finely chopped
2 red pearl onions or ¼ small red
onion, thinly sliced
shaved Parmesan (for serving)
Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large heavy pot
over medium heat. Cook leek, fennel, yellow
onion, and celery, stirring occasionally,
until softened but not taking on any color,
about 5 minutes. Add broth; bring to a boil,
reduce heat, and simmer until vegetables
are just tender, 10–15 minutes.
Add carrots and peas and simmer until
carrots are just tender, about 5 minutes;
season with salt and pepper.
Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large pot of
boiling salted water, stirring occasionally,
until al dente. Drain and add pasta to soup.
While pasta is cooking, process parsley
and remaining 4 Tbsp. oil in a food processor
to a coarse paste, transfer to a small bowl,
and mix in shallot. Season pesto with salt
and pepper. Serve soup topped with pesto,
pearl onions, and Parmesan.
calories 340 fat 22 g fiber 5 g
a s o u p Fo r s u m m E r
Loads of market produce and bright herbs give classic minestrone a seasonal twist
Our super- green soup was
inspired by Rosemary’s in
New York.
FA sT, E A sy, F R E s H
W e e k n i g h t f a v o r i t e s
fo
od
st
yl
iNg
by
rE
bE
cc
a J
Ur
kE
vic
h.
pr
op
st
yl
iNg
by
ka
itly
N d
U r
os
s.
P h o t o g r a P h s b y h i r s h e i m e r & h a m i l t o n44 bonappetit.com • JUne 2014
T H E S E A S O N A L COO KS
S a l a d d a y S
Local lettuces are finally rearing their heads this month. The Seasonal Cooks show you four ways to dress them for dinner
b y m e l i s s a h a m i l t o n a n D c h r i s t o p h e r h i r s h e i m e r
Crisp-tender lettuce with
Lemon-Anchovy Vinaigrette.
Turn the page for the recipe.
Early last month, when the earth had warmed up but the air was still cool, we scattered tiny lettuce seeds in our gardens. Now we’re harvesting the tender leaves, along with the sorrel and wild arugula that come back every year. Add to that the lettuces of every variety that we gather from our local farmstands and markets (not to mention the bunches brought by friends), and we begin to satisfy our annual jones for a good salad.
The leaves we love ofer the trinity of vitality, texture, and favor. We take care to choose a dressing that complements them, rather than overwhelms. For example, we serve thick, creamy dressings like Green Goddess on hardy, tight-headed lettuces that can hold the weight,
and thinner dressings and vinaigrettes on sturdy and delicate leaves alike.
When it comes to making a basic vinaigrette, these are our building blocks: We like an oil-to-acid ratio of 4:1, and use lemon juice, vinegar (sometimes rice; seldom balsamic), even soy sauce for acid. (As for that ratio, we want the acid to just lif up the vinaigrette from being oily. We don’t want pushback from it!) Experiment to create your own house vinaigrette. Just remember: It’s worth the splurge for top-quality extra-virgin olive oil because it carries the other favors.
Also remember that really good dressing can be almost efortless: We make what we’ve come to call our Canal House Classic Vinaigrette right in the bottom of
a well-loved wooden bowl. First we grate a clove of garlic into a pungent paste, adding salt and pepper for seasoning and grit. Next, in goes a dollop of Dijon and a splash of red wine vinegar. Then we drizzle in our very best olive oil, whisking until the dressing emulsifes. A taste tells us if it needs more oil or vinegar. Once the balance is right, we cross serving spoons in the bowl and pile the lettuces on top; this holds the greens above the dressing until it’s time to toss it all together.
A few years ago, we cooked a big-deal meal for an illustrious food writer. At the end of the evening, our knowing guest of honor thanked us, noting, “That salad was simply delicious.” We took it as the highest compliment.
JUNE 2014 • boNappEtit.com 47
Canal House Classic Vinaigretteactive 5 minutes total 5 minutes
Makes about ½ cup Make this once with
measuring spoons and cups; the next time,
just eyeball it, adjusting any or all of the
ingredients to suit your palate. Then you can
call it your classic.
1 small garlic clove, finely grated
2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
2 tsp. Dijon mustard
½ cup olive oil
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
Whisk garlic, vinegar, and mustard in a small
bowl. Gradually whisk in oil until emulsified;
season with salt and pepper.
Do aheaD: Dressing can be made 2 days
ahead. Transfer to a jar; cover and chill.
Simplest Asian Dressingactive 5 minutes total 5 minutes
Makes about ½ cup The delicate flavor
of rice vinegar along with the other Asian
ingredients in this vinaigrette is ideal
on tender greens like mizuna or mâche.
½ small garlic clove, finely grated
1 Tbsp. reduced-sodium soy sauce
2 tsp. unseasoned rice vinegar
½ cup olive oil
½ tsp. toasted sesame oil
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
Whisk garlic, soy sauce, and vinegar in a
small bowl. Gradually whisk in olive oil, then
sesame oil (dressing will thicken slightly);
season with salt and pepper.
Do aheaD: Dressing can be made 2 days
ahead. Transfer to a jar; cover and chill.
Lemon-Anchovy Vinaigrette active 5 minutes total 5 minutes
Makes about ⅔ cup A lighter, brighter
option for all you Caesar salad lovers.
2 lemons
4 anchovy fillets packed in oil,
drained, finely chopped
½ cup olive oil
¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
Cut all peel and white pith from lemons;
discard. Working over a medium bowl, cut
t h e s e a s o n a l c o o ks
B e s t - d r e s s e d s a l a d
lemons along sides of membranes to release
segments into bowl. Squeeze in juice
from membranes and discard membranes.
Mix in anchovies, oil, and red pepper
flakes, breaking up lemon segments against
the side of the bowl with a spoon; season
with salt and pepper.
Do aheaD: Dressing can be made 4 days
ahead. Transfer to a jar; cover and chill.
Canal House Green Goddess Dressingactive 5 minutes total 5 minutes
Makes about ¾ cup This is
equally good drizzled over hard-boiled
eggs or with crudité for dipping.
½ bunch watercress, tough stems
removed, coarsely chopped
(about 2 cups)
4 anchovy fillets packed in oil, drained
½ cup mayonnaise
2 Tbsp. sour cream
½ cup (lightly packed) fresh flat-leaf
parsley leaves
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh chives
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh tarragon
1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
Purée watercress, anchovies, mayonnaise,
sour cream, parsley, chives, tarragon, and
vinegar in a blender until smooth; season
with salt and pepper.
Do aheaD: Dressing can be made 2 days
ahead. Transfer to a jar; cover and chill.
Washing,
drying, and
storing SalaD GreenS
Wash as soon as we
get home from the
market, we pick through
loose-leaf greens and
pull apart head lettuces,
discarding any leaves
that are tough or
blemished. We gently
swish the greens in
a large bowl of cold
water, allowing any dirt
to settle to the bottom,
lifting the leaves out
of the water, repeating
until the leaves are clean.
Dry Sometimes we use
a salad spinner, but it
can bruise the leaves. We
prefer to lay the damp
lettuce on a clean dish
towel, gently roll it up,
and slip the whole thing
into a big plastic bag.
Store Kept in the
fridge’s crisper, the
greens are ready to use
at a moment’s notice.
They’ll last this way for
up to a week.
Super, simple Four ingredients add up to big flavor in the Lemon-Anchovy Vinaigrette. Just don’t forget the salt and pepper!
48 bonappetit.com • JUne 2014 P h o t o g r a P h s b y J e r e m y l i e b m a n
T H E P A R T Y
W i n n e r , W i n n e r ,
H o t C H i C k e n D i n n e rRestaurants around the country are
featuring the Nashville specialty hot chicken— and with good reason: It’s as delicious
as it is spicy (and it’s very spicy). Local spot hattie b’s shows us how it’s done
T h e
g r e a T e s T
T h i n g s i n c e… do like locals:
serve the chicken
atop sliced soft
white bread.
For Hattie B’s black-eyed pea
salad recipe, go to bonappetit.com /blackeyedpeas
50 bonappetit.com • apRiL 2014
the menu
T H E PA RT Y
h o t C h i C k e n
When folks in nashville say hot,
they mean it. take the local dish,
hot chicken: the meat is dunked in
hot sauce–laced buttermilk, then
fried, its crisp skin lacquered with
cayenne oil. heat seekers devour
white bread to quell the flames.
And then they reach for another
piece. Restaurants like hattie B’s
and Prince’s, the dish’s originator,
know the routine: the first bite
is a challenge, but then the sweet-
salty-spicy alchemy pulls ’em in.
Don’t just stand the heat—revel in it.
Nashville-Style Hot Chickenactive 1½ hours total 4½ hours
8 servings no doubt about it, six
tablespoons of cayenne is a lot, but that’s
what hattie b’s considers “medium.” for a
milder heat, decrease to two tablespoons.
2 3 ½–4-lb. chickens, each cut into
10 pieces (breasts halved)
1 tbsp. freshly ground black pepper
2 tbsp. plus 4 tsp. kosher salt
4 large eggs
2 cups buttermilk or whole milk
2 tbsp. vinegar-based hot sauce
(such as tabasco or texas Pete)
4 cups all-purpose flour
Vegetable oil (for frying; about
10 cups)
6 tbsp. cayenne pepper
2 tbsp. dark brown sugar
1 tsp. chili powder
1 tsp. garlic powder
1 tsp. paprika
White bread and sliced pickles
(for serving)
special equipment: A deep-fry
thermometer
toss chicken with black pepper and
2 tbsp. salt in a large bowl. Cover and chill
at least 3 hours.
Whisk eggs, buttermilk, and hot sauce
in a large bowl. Whisk flour and remaining
4 tsp. salt in another large bowl.
Fit a Dutch oven with thermometer; pour
in oil to measure 2". heat over medium-high
heat until thermometer registers 325°. Pat
chicken dry. Working with 1 piece at a time,
dredge in flour mixture, shaking of excess,
then dip in buttermilk mixture, letting
excess drip back into bowl. Dredge again in
flour mixture and place on a baking sheet.
Working in 4 batches and returning oil to
325° between batches, fry chicken, turning
occasionally, until skin is deep golden brown
and crisp and an instant-read thermometer
inserted into thickest part of pieces registers
160° for white meat and 165° for dark,
15–18 minutes. transfer to a clean wire rack
set inside a baking sheet. Let oil cool slightly.
Whisk cayenne, brown sugar, chili
powder, garlic powder, and paprika in a
medium bowl; carefully whisk in 1 cup frying
oil. Brush fried chicken with spicy oil. Serve
with bread and pickles.
Do aheaD: Chicken can be seasoned
1 day ahead. Keep chilled. »
the Plan
One day ahead
Season chicken with
salt and pepper.
Assemble the banana
pudding (minus
the meringue).
The morning of
Make the slaw. Whisk
dry ingredients for the
chicken’s cayenne mix.
90 minutes
before serving
Start frying! (You
should finish just before
guests arrive.) Keep
chicken warm in
a 250°-degree oven.
Just before serving
Brush chicken with
spicy oil. Right before
dessert, make the
meringue; top pudding.
Nashville-Style Hot Chicken
Classic Coleslaw
Banana Meringue Pudding
54 bonappetit.com • JUne 2014
fo
od
st
yL
ing
by
viv
ian
LU
i. p
Ro
p s
ty
Lin
g b
y a
my
wiL
so
n.
Classic Coleslawactive 15 minutes total 15 minutes
8 servings hattie b’s version of this
traditional fried chicken side tastes like
coleslaw should: crunchy, a little creamy,
and with enough vinegar to keep it bright.
best of all: it will help put out the fire.
1 cup mayonnaise
1 ½ tbsp. apple cider vinegar
1 tbsp. honey
¾ tsp. celery seeds
1 tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
½ medium green cabbage, very thinly
sliced (about 4 cups)
½ medium red cabbage, very thinly
sliced (about 4 cups)
2 medium carrots, peeled; julienned
or grated
Whisk mayonnaise, vinegar, honey, celery
seeds, salt, and pepper in a large bowl to
combine. Add green and red cabbage and
carrots to dressing and toss to coat. Cover
and chill until ready to serve.
Do aheaD: Coleslaw can be made
8 hours ahead. Keep chilled.
Banana Meringue Puddingactive 45 minutes total 6 hours 45 minutes
(includes chilling)
8 servings to check if your meringue is stif,
lift the beaters out of the bowl and upend
them: the peaks should stick straight up.
puDDing
4 large eggs
⅔ cup sugar
¼ cup cornstarch
4 cups whole milk
2 tbsp. unsalted butter
2 tsp. vanilla extract
Pinch of kosher salt
assembly
1 11-oz. box vanilla wafer cookies
3 ripe bananas, thinly sliced
4 large egg whites
½ cup sugar
puDDing Lightly whisk eggs in a large bowl
just to blend. Whisk sugar and cornstarch
in a medium saucepan. Gradually whisk milk
into sugar mixture and heat over medium
heat, whisking often, until very warm to
the touch. Gradually whisk half of hot milk
mixture into eggs, then whisk egg mixture
back into milk mixture in saucepan.
Cook, whisking constantly, until thickened
and whisk leaves a trail in pudding (it
should be the consistency of mayonnaise),
about 4 minutes. Remove from heat,
add butter, vanilla, and salt and whisk until
butter is melted and mixture is smooth.
Strain pudding through a fine-mesh sieve
into another large bowl. Cover pudding
with plastic wrap, pressing directly onto the
surface. Chill until cool, about 2 hours.
assembly Spread one-third of pudding
evenly in a 2-qt. baking dish. top with half of
cookies and half of bananas. Repeat layers
one more time and top with remaining third
of pudding. Cover and chill at least 4 hours.
Just before serving, heat broiler. Using
an electric mixer on medium speed, beat
egg whites until foamy. With motor running,
gradually add sugar. Increase speed to
medium-high and beat until stif peaks form.
Spoon meringue over pudding and
swirl decoratively. Broil until meringue is
dark brown in spots, about 1 minute.
Do aheaD: Pudding (without meringue)
can be assembled 2 days ahead. Keep chilled.
F i n i s h i n g
T o u c h do-ahead banana
pudding gets a final flourish of toasted
meringue.
T H E PA RT Y
h o t C h i C k e n
56 bonappetit.com • June 2014 P h o t o g r a P h s b y g u n n a r k n e c h t e l
N A V I G A T O Ra glass of house vermouth—an old-school aperitif that’s all the rage again— at Morro Fi.
b a r c e l o n a f o r
t h e P e o P l e
The best bites this food-obsessed city has to ofer used to require reservations and muchos euros.
Today, all you need to do is hit the streets in Sant Antoni, scarf a bomba, and quaf a vermouth
B y G e r a l d i n e C a m p B e l l
58 bonappetit.com • June 2014
ph
ot
og
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: g
un
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r K
ne
ch
te
l/D
ie Z
eit
/la
if/r
eD
ux
(l
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ria
)
Barcelona has earned international bragging rights for its far-out gastronomy (foams! spheres! airs!), but now down-to-earth and, frankly, more soul-satisfying foods are hitting the tables of the moment. Low-key cafés, ingredient-driven fare, and straightforward presentations are the new norm. The return to simpler food may be the one good thing to come of la crisis. Spain’s economic downturn has Michelin-starred chefs trading tasting menus for tapas bars, beachside shacks, and ice cream shops. And those unfussy cocktails— like G&Ts and vermouth and soda—are back in vogue, too. Here, ten ways to enjoy Barcelona’s modern modest side.
1 Shop Like a Chefla boqueria is still
Barcelona’s best
market—and also its
most touristy. The
earlier in the morning
you get there, the
fewer elbows you’ll
have to throw at
ruthless grandmothers.
How to navigate it:
Skip the center
aisle, where prices are
higher. And if you want
to be mistaken for a
local, take a pass on
the juices and spendy
cut fruit as well.
Order the eggs with
baby squid at El Quim,
the always-packed
stall at the southeast
corner of the market.
Go in the morning or
after 3 p.m. for a seat.
Buy jamón, sliced
superthin, plus
fresh Catalan cheeses
from the Empordà
region, from Joan la
llar del Pernil.
Go outside for
the best vegetables,
but be sure to arrive
well before 2 p.m.,
when the farmers
pack it in for the day.
naviGator
barcelona
for
aDDresses
of the
restaurants
anD hotels
in this
story, see
sourcebooK
on page 111.La Boqueria
Vinçon
Federal
4 Explore the New “It” Hood The working-class
neighborhood of Sant
Antoni, near the tour-
isty Gothic Quarter,
has gone from sleepy
to stylish thanks to the
spate of cafés, bars,
and vintage shops that
have popped up.
Most are concentrated
on the Carrer del
Parlament, including
the Aussie-founded
Federal, which has a
spare, Scandinavian
vibe and a rooftop
terrace. At night, par-
ties spill out onto the
streets. But on mellow
Sunday mornings, you
can grab brunch, read
a book, and wander
the charming streets.
2 Say Buenos Días to BreakfastThe morning spread
at hotel omm—
including plum cake
and anise brioche,
meats and cheeses,
Sicilian blood orange
juice, and made-to-
order eggs—is worth
rousing yourself from
your designer mattress
for. Stick around for
lunch or dinner, too,
as the Roca brothers
(the men behind one
of the world’s top
restaurants, El Celler
de Can Roca, in Girona)
oversee those menus
at this serene property.
3 Tap Your Inner Dalí You can’t legally
bring jamón Ibérico
into the U.S., so
instead consider a
kitschy blow-up ham
from Vinçon. The
design emporium also
has cheap-chic salt
cellars, voodoo doll
toothpick holders, and
all kinds of fun and
functional knickknacks.
Phot
ogra
ph b
y Pe
den
+ M
unk
(cov
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App
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iPad
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PROMOT ION
Now Available To Go
Available on the iPad®, Kindle Fire, and NOOK Tablet™
Already a magazine subscriber? For tablet access, download the Bon Appétit
app and enter your subscription number from the mailing label.
Get both the print and digital issues of Bon Appétit
for one great introductory price.
Go to bonappetit.com/go/amazon to subscribe.
ph
ot
og
ra
ph
: c
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a g
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ar
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(l
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a b
ar
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ta
)
naviGator
barcelona
9 Go GalicianDon’t even try to
tackle the 3,500-label
list at Monvínic, the
ultramodern wine bar,
restaurant, and multi-
lingual library. Instead,
just ask one of the six
sommeliers to recom-
mend a vino tinto from
Galicia. The region,
traditionally known for
its whites, is turning
out surprisingly ele-
gant, complex, and
buzz-generating reds,
from producers includ-
ing Algueira and
Quinta da Muradella.
5 Sip VermouthStylish twentysome-
things have made this
fortified wine their
go-to aperitif. Head to
Morro Fi, a garage-
turned-bar, for the
house vermouth (on
the rocks, with an
orange slice) and salty
snacks like anchovy-
stufed olives and
thick-cut potato chips.
6 Snack in Your Flip-FlopsMake the 15-minute
walk from the city
center to Sant
Sebastià beach, where
la guingueta de la
barceloneta ofers an
elevated rif on the
chiringuito, or snack
bar, thanks to Ferran
Adrià acolyte Carles
Abellán. Think haute
hot dogs (get the New
York, with pickles and
crispy onions) and
pizzas like tomato,
basil, and sardine.
Finish with ice cream
from rocambolesc,
Jordi Roca’s hyper-
inventive gelateria.
7 Drink a Gin TónicaGin and tonics
continue to be an
obsession for the
Spanish, who have put
their own spin on the
classic cocktail. They
serve them in balloon
glasses with giant ice
cubes and creative
garnishes, like tonka
beans and cardamom.
Every bar in town
has a handful of gins,
but grab a stool at
Ideal cocktail bar,
which pairs a vintage
vibe with the most
extensive list around:
some 110 gins and
22 tonics.
8 Eat Where Albert Adrià Is CookingWith five restaurants
in his growing empire,
El Bulli’s former pastry
chef is the hottest—
and most prolific—
cook in town. Ignore
the madcap decor at
the big top–like
tickets and focus on
the procession of
thrilling small plates,
like quivering olive
spheres, paper cones
filled with pufed,
safron-spiced squid
chips, and hollow “air
baguettes” wrapped in
paper-thin slices of
Ibérico ham. It’s the
best example of
Spain’s still-lingering
molecular gastronomy
movement, which
means you’ll need to
book a table here well
in advance.
Ideal Cocktail Bar
10 Have a BallThe bomba is to Barce-
lona tapas bars what
a bagel is to New York
delis. And the best
place to get this deep-
fried, meat-filled
potato ball is at the
tiny, no-frills la cova
Fumada. Go for lunch
and squeeze in beside
the salty old men.
La Cova Fumada
Tickets
La Guingueta de la Barceloneta
Morro Fi
PH
OT
OG
RA
PH
BY
PE
DE
N +
MU
NK
SUM MER
14 ’
p. 64 The secrets to simple
summer dishes
p. 72 Six new ways to
celebrate salmon
p. 82 Breakfast all day at
L.A.’s coolest café
p. 92 As easy as (sour)
cherry pie
p. 94 The best chef you’ve
never heard of—yet
Meadowood’s
Christopher
Kostow visits
the restaurant’s
culinary garden
with Charlie.
JUNE 2014 • boNappEtit.com 63
by J u l i a K r a m e r
recipes by a l i s o n r o m a n
photographs by
C h r i sto p h e r t e sta n i
a
ba
p r i
m e r
In summertime, the living is easy—and the cooking should be, too. With market-fresh ingredients peaking left and right, there’s no better time than now (and next month, and the month after that) to blow minds with dishes so simple, you barely even need a recipe
Peach + Burrata + Tarrago
n
Gril
led E
gg
pla
nt
+ R
ico
tta
Sa
lata
+ D
ill
Canta
loupe + Scamorza + Mint
Th
e O
rig
ina
l: T
om
ato
+ M
ozz
are
lla +
Bas
il
Roasted Red Pepper + Feta + Chive
The easiest way
to slice a tomato?
Use a basic
serrated knife. It
does a fine job
cutting through the
delicate skin
and flesh of the
tomato without
smushing it.
Done right, the caprese’s timeless combination of tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, and basil is more than the sum of its parts. That’s
why every component counts: You must seek out the best ingredients, use your fanciest olive oil, and sprinkle on the Maldon and
coarsely ground pepper. Master these essentials and the caprese formula can be endlessly (and brilliantly) adapted, as seen here.
the caprese
pro t
i p p
ro tip
Bean Salad
with lemon
and herBS
Toss 2 cups fresh
cooked shell beans
(such as cannellini
or cranberry) or one
14-oz. can cannellini
beans or chickpeas,
rinsed, 6 oz. green
beans (trimmed,
cut into 1" pieces),
¼ cup fresh parsley
leaves with tender
stems, ¼ cup olive
oil, 3 Tbsp. chopped
fresh chives, 2 Tbsp.
chopped capers,
1 Tbsp. finely grated
lemon zest, 2 Tbsp.
lemon juice, and
½ tsp. Aleppo pepper
or ¼ tsp. crushed
red pepper flakes in
a large bowl; season
with salt and pepper.
6 servings
German Potato
Salad with dill
Cover 2 lb. halved
small waxy potatoes
with cold salted
water, bring to a
boil, and cook until
tender; drain and
transfer to a large
bowl. Meanwhile,
heat ¼ cup olive
oil in a medium
skillet over medium-
high heat. Add
½ chopped onion;
season with salt
and pepper. Cook,
stirring often, until
soft, about
5 minutes. Remove
from heat and mix
in ¼ cup apple cider
vinegar. Add to
potatoes along with
4 sliced scallions,
2 Tbsp. chopped
fresh dill, and 1 tsp.
toasted caraway
seeds and toss,
crushing potatoes
slightly; season with
salt and pepper.
6 servings
Barley,
Fennel, and
Beet Salad
Toss 2 cups cooked
barley (from about
⅔ cup dried), 1 thinly
sliced fennel bulb,
2 thinly sliced small
golden beets,
½ thinly sliced small
red onion, ¼ cup
chopped toasted
almonds, and ¼ cup
torn fresh mint in
a large bowl with
¼ cup olive oil and
3 Tbsp. Sherry
vinegar or red wine
vinegar; season
with salt and pepper.
6 servings
Sweeter vegetables like fennel and beets are delicious ra
w; ju
st be
su
re to
slic
e th
em
thin
ly.
Three picnic essentials join the caprese in the summer salads hall of fame. First we have our go-to grain salad, packed
with crunchy fresh vegetables. Next up: the modern-day, crowd-pleasing potato salad (no mayo, thanks), without which
no barbecue is complete. And last but not least, a dish that captures fresh shell beans’ fleeting season. Potlucks, we’re ready.
the sIDes
The skirt is a
funny-looking steak:
It’s long and
thin, with a grain
that runs crosswise.
Slicing across—
rather than with—
the grain is the
difference between
a chewy bite
and a tender one.
Start at one corner,
making slices
at a 45-degree angle
across the width
of the steak—the
thinner the better.
salt-
and-
pepper
steaK
Cut 1 ½ lb. skirt
steak into 4 pieces;
season with salt
and pepper.
Grill over medium-
high heat until
medium-rare, about
4 minutes per side.
Let rest 5 minutes
before thinly slicing
against the grain.
4 servings
What’s inexpensive, versatile, and crazy tasty? Skirt steak. It also cooks in a flash, which makes it tailor-made for grilling.
One downside: It can be dry if overcooked, so don’t get distracted! Nail the timing and slice it properly, and the results will
be transcendental. And that’s just the first day. Throw an extra steak on the grill and you can dig into leftovers all week long.
the steak
in taCoS
Sauté onions and
crushed red pepper
flakes in a cast-iron
pan—no oil, so they
get all smoky—then
add slices of day-
after skirt steak and
cook until crisp.
in a taGliata
Lay cold slices
of steak atop a bed
of arugula, followed
by good Parm, a
glug of olive oil, and
a squeeze of lemon.
in a SandwiCh
Pile sliced steak
on a grilled baguette
with paprika-spiked
mayo, thinly sliced
onion, and a
mess of fresh herbs.
u s e t h e
l e f t o v e r s
pro t
i p p
ro tip
m
aste
r r
ecip
e
StrawBerry-
GinGer
lemonade
Muddle 3 hulled
strawberries in
a highball glass.
Add 4 oz. Lemon-
Ginger Brew
and stir well. Fill
glass with ice
and garnish with
a lemon slice.
Makes 1
extra-Stormy
dark
and Stormy
Combine 2 oz.
Lemon-Ginger Brew
and 2 oz. dark
rum in a highball
glass filled with ice,
then top of with
club soda. Garnish
with a lime wedge
and candied ginger.
Makes 1
K e e p i t g - r at e db o o z e i t u p
fa r m e r s ’ m a r K e t
a d v i C e
hoW to shop
rule one: try
to shop on a weekday,
when it’s more sane.
rule two: If you
see something unusual
at a stand, ask the
farmer how long it’ll be
around. this might
be the one time you
can get sour cherries!
rule three: Buy
berries and other
delicate fruit last; pack
them carefully on
top or in a separate bag.
there’s nothing
sadder than $20 worth
of smashed peaches.
No, it’s not green juice. It’s Lemon-Ginger Brew, a creation of food and features editor Carla Lalli Music. To make it, she
simmers ginger in water to make a zingy base, then balances it with lemon juice and agave nectar. Mix it with muddled
strawberries for a twist on pink lemonade or add rum to make it a cocktail. Whatever you do, keep a pitcher handy at all times.
the elIxIr
lemon-
ginger brew
Pulse 8 oz. ginger,
peeled and chopped,
in a food processor to a
coarse paste. Bring
ginger and 6 cups water
to a boil in a medium
saucepan; reduce heat
and simmer until
reduced to 3 cups, 30–40
minutes. Strain into a
large jar and mix in
½ cup lemon juice and
⅓ cup agave syrup or
pure maple syrup; add
more lemon juice
or agave, if desired. Let
cool; cover and chill.
Do aheaD: Brew can
be made 2 weeks ahead.
Keep chilled.
Makes about 3½ cups
m
aster
r
ecip
e
So you’re at the farmers’ market, wandering from stall to stall. Everything looks amazing! You buy a bushel of greens, some wacky-
hued tomatoes, a little ricotta from the cheese lady. Then you get home and…um, now what? Pasta is what, but not the heavy, wintry
kind. This is its featherlight cousin, in which the noodles are a canvas upon which your vegetables can find their expression.
the pasta
Spaghetti is
only the beginning:
Try these recipes
with whatever
noodles you like.
For this easy
tomato sauce, we’re
into campanelle
and tubular paccheri.
ZuCChini
and leekS
Cook ½ lb. cavatelli;
drain, reserving
¾ cup cooking liquid.
Meanwhile, heat
¼ cup olive oil in a
large skillet over
medium heat. Add
1 chopped large leek,
white and pale-green
parts only, and
¾ tsp. crushed red
pepper flakes; season
with salt and pepper.
Cook, stirring often,
until soft, about
5 minutes. Add 2
grated large zucchini
and cook, stirring
occasionally, until
soft, about 5 minutes.
Toss in pasta and
cooking liquid; cook
until sauce coats
pasta, about 2
minutes. Toss in
⅓ cup grated
Pecorino. 4 servings
tomatoeS
and
anChovy
Butter
Cook ½ lb. spaghetti;
drain, reserving
½ cup cooking liquid.
Meanwhile, heat
4 Tbsp. unsalted
butter in a large
skillet over medium
heat. Cook 2 anchovy
fillets and 4 sliced
garlic cloves, stirring
often, until
anchovies are broken
down and garlic is
soft, about 4 minutes.
Add 2 lb. quartered
medium tomatoes;
season with salt and
pepper and cook,
stirring occasionally,
until falling apart,
8–10 minutes. Toss
in pasta and cooking
liquid; cook until
sauce coats pasta,
about 2 minutes.
Toss in chopped
tender herbs
(such as flat-leaf
parsley, tarragon,
and/or chives).
4 servings
Corn, GreenS,
and riCotta
Cook ½ lb.
orecchiette; drain,
reserving ¾ cup
cooking liquid.
Meanwhile, cook
2 oz. chopped bacon
in a large skillet
over medium heat,
stirring occasionally,
until brown and crisp,
5–8 minutes. Add
2 cups fresh corn
kernels and cook,
tossing occasionally,
until tender, about
5 minutes. Add 8 cups
chopped Swiss
chard leaves; season
with salt and pepper.
Cook, tossing often,
until wilted, about 5
minutes. Toss
in pasta and cooking
liquid; cook until
sauce coats pasta,
about 2 minutes.
Serve dolloped with
4 oz. ricotta and
topped with
torn fresh basil.
4 servings
pro t
i p p
ro tip
Farm
ers
oft
en s
ell b
ruis
ed o
r soft
tom
atoes (w
hich will w
ork great for this recipe) at a discount—all you have to do is ask.
FO
OD
ST
YL
ING
BY
RE
BE
CC
A J
UR
KE
VIC
H.
PR
OP
ST
YL
ING
BY
KA
ITLY
N D
U R
OS
S.
ILL
US
TR
AT
ION
S B
Y L
UC
Y E
NG
EL
MA
N.
Paletas aren’t just for kids.
To spike these recipes,
add up to 1/3 cup alcohol to
each batch. We like gin
with the blackberry, vodka
with raspberry, and
tequila with cucumber.
For tips on
making ice pops,
see our video at
bonappetit.com
/icepops
BlaCkBerry-tarraGon
PaletaS
Purée 1 ½ pints
blackberries,
1 cup simple syrup,
¼ cup fresh lemon
juice, and 2 Tbsp.
fresh tarragon
leaves until smooth.
Strain through a
fine-mesh sieve into
a large measuring
cup, divide among
ice-pop molds,
insert sticks, and
freeze until solid,
at least 6 hours.
Makes 8
raSPBerry-melon PaletaS
Remove skin and
seeds from half of
a 3-lb. cantaloupe.
Purée flesh with
½ pint fresh
raspberries, 1 cup
simple syrup,
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon
juice, and 2 Tbsp.
unseasoned rice
vinegar until smooth.
Strain through a
fine-mesh sieve into
a large measuring
cup, divide among
ice-pop molds,
insert sticks, and
freeze until solid,
at least 6 hours.
Makes 8
CuCumBer- lime PaletaS
Purée 1 peeled
large cucumber
(10–12 oz.) with
1 cup simple syrup,
⅓ cup fresh lime
juice, and 1 tsp.
finely grated peeled
ginger until smooth.
Strain through a
fine-mesh sieve into
a large measuring
cup, divide among
ice-pop molds,
insert sticks, and
freeze until solid,
at least 6 hours.
Makes 8
Pop quiz: what month
are local strawberries
at their peak?
that’s a trick question;
it depends on
where you live. Ange-
lenos might be biting
into juicy berries in
April, while such a thing
is but a glimmer in a
New Yorker’s eye. What
to do? Let the quality
of the produce around
you dictate which
ingredients star in your
recipes—not the
other way around. tear
out these pages and
refer to them through-
out June, July, August,
and early september.
fa r m e r s ’ m a r K e t
a d v i C e
WhAt to BuY
Why do we love Mexican ice pops? Let us count the ways: They’re perfectly cool on a sweltering day; they’re surprisingly
easy to throw together; they highlight the season’s very best produce because they’re made with puréed fresh fruit; and—best
of all—they make people’s eyes light up when you serve them. (You’re just going to have to trust us on that last one.)
the paleta
pro t
i p p
ro tip
p
res
s p
lay
summer
fruit
Crisp
oat topping
Pulse ¾ cup old-
fashioned oats,
⅓ cup all-purpose
flour, ¼ cup light
brown sugar, and
½ tsp. kosher salt
in a food processor
to blend. Pulse in 1
stick cut-up chilled
unsalted butter
until no dry spots
remain. Transfer
to a bowl and work
in ¼ cup old-
fashioned oats with
your fingers.
assembly
Toss 8 cups sliced
stone fruit, berries,
or pitted cherries
with 1 cup sugar,
2 Tbsp. cornstarch,
1 tsp. finely grated
lemon, lime, or
orange zest, 2 Tbsp.
lemon, lime, or
orange juice, and
a pinch of kosher
salt. Transfer
mixture to a 1½-qt.
baking dish, scatter
oat topping over
mixture, place on
a baking sheet,
and bake at 375°
until fruit juices
are bubbling and
topping is golden
brown, 60–70
minutes. Transfer
to a wire rack
and let cool 1 hour.
8 servings
the CrumBle
Try swapping in
unsweetened coconut
flakes, sliced almonds,
chopped pecans, or
sunflower seeds at the
end for all or part
of the ¼ cup of oats.
the FillinG
Mix in a little grated
peeled ginger
(great with cherries),
lemon thyme
(delicious with
berries), or a pinch
of cinnamon.
Whatever you
do, don’t
underbake your
crisp! Pull it
out too soon
and the top will
not brown
perfectly and the
juices will
not thicken.
s w i t C h i t u p
the crIsp
pro t
i p p
ro tip
m
aster
r
ecip
e
If you ever need convincing that simpler is better, behold the warm, bubbly baked fruit dish with a crumbly, crunchy cap
known as the fruit crisp. Master the wondrously light, streusel-like topping, and you can use it throughout summer whether
you have quarts of strawberries, pounds of peaches, or whatever else. Life is complicated; dessert doesn’t have to be.
P. 78
Wild salmon isn’t
cheap, but it’s worth it.
It’s a fish you can feel
good about eating, and
not just because it’s
delicious. Here are a
few points to consider
next time you’re
making choices at the
fish counter:
In terms of taste, wild
salmon is richer, with
a deeper flavor than
farmed. The absence
of color-boosting dyes
means the vivid orange
flesh you’re looking at
is the real thing. And
that fresh, salty flavor?
It comes from the
ocean, not an added
saline solution.
Like baseball and
tomatoes, salmon has
a season. Most wild
salmon spawn in
summer and are at their
fit, fat, flavorful best
before swimming
upstream to reproduce.
Look for fresh wild
salmon from May
through September.
Out of season, frozen
wild salmon (often
sold thawed) is your
best bet.
Both wild and
farmed salmon are
heart-healthy, rich in
omega-3 fatty acids.
But farmed salmon
can be contaminated
with PCBs, heavy
metals, and pesticide
residue, and carries
plenty of environmental
baggage.
—CREE LEFAVOUR,
AUTHOR, FISH
P. 81
P. 81
P. 81
78 bonappetit.com • JUne 2014
Smoked Salmon Tartines with Fried Capers
4 s e r v i n g s Find hot-smoked salmon, a
Pacific Northwest delicacy, at specialty
grocers. Erickson’s favorite brand is
available at lokifish.com.
½ small red onion, very thinly sliced
⅔ cup Champagne vinegar or white
wine vinegar
¼ cup vegetable oil
2 Tbsp. capers, rinsed, patted dry
8 slices country-style bread,
toasted or grilled
1 cup crème fraîche
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
1 lb. hot-smoked salmon, flaked
1 Tbsp. chopped fresh chives
Olive oil (for drizzling)
Toss onion and vinegar in a small bowl; let
stand at least 1 hour to pickle.
Heat oil in a small skillet over medium-
high heat. Working in 2 batches, fry capers
until opened and crisp, about 30 seconds.
Drain on paper towels.
Spread toasts with crème fraîche and
season with salt and pepper. Top with
smoked salmon, drained pickled red onion,
fried capers, and chives; drizzle with oil.
Do aheaD: Onion can be pickled 1 day
ahead. Cover and chill.
renee reCoMMenDsGo bubbly! Classic Argyle Vintage Brut 2010 ($27) is a good match for the smokiness of the salmon.
Slow-Cooked Salmon with Turnips and Swiss Chard
4 s e r v i n g s This low-heat method is very
gentle, lending the salmon a velvety texture.
4 6-oz. pieces skinless salmon fillet
4 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
Kosher salt
4 garlic cloves, peeled, smashed
1 ½ lb. small turnips, scrubbed, halved,
quartered if large
Freshly ground black pepper
2 bunches Swiss chard
1 small shallot, finely chopped
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro
¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf
parsley
1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
1 tsp. toasted sesame oil
Toasted sesame seeds (for serving)
Preheat oven to 250°. Place salmon in a
large baking dish; drizzle with 2 Tbsp. olive
oil, sprinkle with lemon zest, and gently
rub into flesh. Season with salt and scatter
garlic around. Bake until salmon is medium-
rare (mostly opaque but still slightly
translucent in the center), 30–35 minutes.
Meanwhile, combine turnips, 1 Tbsp. olive
oil, and 1 cup water in a large skillet; season
with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer,
cover, and cook until turnips are fork-tender,
15–20 minutes. Uncover and cook, tossing
occasionally, until liquid is evaporated and
turnips are golden, 5 minutes.
While turnips are cooking, remove
ribs and stems from Swiss chard leaves.
Thinly slice ribs, stems, and leaves
crosswise. Heat remaining 1 Tbsp. olive
oil in another large skillet over medium-
high heat. Cook shallot and Swiss
chard ribs and stems, stirring often, until
beginning to soften, about 3 minutes.
Add Swiss chard leaves and cook, tossing
often, until leaves are wilted, about
2 minutes. Toss in cilantro, parsley, and
lime juice; season with salt.
Drizzle salmon with sesame oil. Serve
salmon with Swiss chard and turnips,
topped with sesame seeds.
renee reCoMMenDsChoose something acidic and fruity, like
Division-Villages “l’Isle Verte” 2013 Chenin Blanc ($20), produced in Portland, OR,
from Washington State grapes.
Poached Salmon with Artichoke Confit4 s e r v i n g s Both the salmon and the
artichokes are poached in spice- and herb-
infused liquids, adding layers of subtle
aromatic flavor.
vegetables
5 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, divided
4 artichokes
6 sprigs thyme
4 garlic cloves, peeled
2 bay leaves
1 Tbsp. black peppercorns
3 ½ cups olive oil
½ cup fresh fava beans (from about
½ lb. pods) or frozen, thawed
Kosher salt
½ cup shelled fresh peas (from about
½ lb. pods) or frozen, thawed
¾ cup green olives, coarsely
chopped
½ cup pea shoots (tendrils) or fresh
flat-leaf parsley leaves
with tender stems
½ cup torn fresh mint leaves
Freshly ground black pepper
salMon anD asseMbly
4 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
4 sprigs dill
1 lemon, thinly sliced
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 cup dry white wine
1 Tbsp. black peppercorns
Kosher salt
4 6-oz. skinless salmon fillets
vegetables Add 3 Tbsp. lemon juice to a
large bowl of cold water. Working with
1 artichoke at a time, remove tough dark
outer leaves. Using a serrated knife, trim top
of artichoke to just above the heart. Trim
stem, leaving about 1" intact. Using a paring
knife or vegetable peeler, remove dark outer
layer from stem. Halve artichoke lengthwise
and scoop out choke with a spoon. Transfer
artichoke to lemon water to prevent
discoloration.
Drain artichokes; pat dry. Cook with thyme,
garlic, bay leaves, peppercorns, and oil in a
large saucepan over medium heat until oil
around artichokes is bubbling. Reduce heat
and cook, turning artichokes occasionally,
until stems are tender when pierced with a
knife, 15–20 minutes; let cool in oil.
Meanwhile, if using fresh fava beans,
cook in a medium saucepan of boiling salted
water until tender, about 4 minutes. Using a
slotted spoon, transfer to a colander set in a
bowl of ice water. Drain and peel; place in a
large bowl. (If using frozen fava beans, cook
2 minutes; do not peel.)
Return water in saucepan to a boil; add
peas and cook until tender, about 2 minutes.
Drain; transfer to colander in ice water. Drain
and add to bowl with fava beans.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer artichokes
to bowl with peas and fava beans. Add ¼ cup
artichoke cooking oil, olives, pea shoots,
mint, and remaining 2 Tbsp. lemon juice; toss
and season with salt and pepper.
Do aheaD: Artichokes can be poached
1 day ahead. Keep in oil; cover and chill.
salMon anD asseMbly Bring parsley,
dill, lemon slices, lemon juice, wine,
peppercorns, and 3 cups water to a simmer
in a large saucepan over medium heat;
season with salt. Add salmon; cover. Reduce
heat and simmer gently until just opaque
throughout, 6–8 minutes. Using a large
spatula, remove salmon and lemon slices
from poaching liquid. Serve salmon with
artichoke salad and lemon slices.
renee reCoMMenDsTry the dry Whidbey Island Winery 2012 Madeleine
Angevine ($17), made just of Puget Sound.
Chinook
Also known as king, its nicely fatty flesh is
ideal for slow-roasting.
SoCkeye
Sometimes called red salmon, it has vibrant
red-orange flesh and a profound flavor
that stands up well to assertive seasonings.
Another reason to choose wild salmon: the wonderful variety available. Here are the five types of Pacific salmon—and what to do with them:
Coho
More subtle in flavor and texture
than other types, it’s a smaller fish, making it
great for roasting or grilling whole.
Pink
It has a lower fat content and is mostly
available canned. If you find fillets, grill them.
Chum
Sometimes labeled dog or keta salmon, it’s
prized for its roe. The comparatively
low oil content of its delicately flavored
flesh means it’s better for smoking
or for quick-cooking methods that won’t dry
it out, like pan-searing and grilling.
—JOAnnA SCIARRInO
P. 78
Photographs shot at Four Winds * Westward
Ho Camp in Deer Harbor, Washington.
JUne 2014 • bonappetit.com 81
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od
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Butter-Basted Salmon
with Hazelnut Relish 4 s e r v i n g s Cooking the salmon skin side
down maximizes its crispy potential; brown
butter carries nutty flavor into the flesh.
½ cup blanched hazelnuts
1 garlic clove, chopped
1 cup (packed) fresh cilantro leaves
with tender stems
½ cup (packed) fresh flat-leaf parsley
leaves with tender stems
1 Tbsp. capers
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
½ cup olive oil
Kosher salt
1 Tbsp. vegetable oil
4 6-oz. pieces skin-on salmon fillets
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into
pieces
2 heads Little Gem or other small
lettuce, leaves separated
Preheat oven to 400°. Toast hazelnuts on a
rimmed baking sheet, tossing occasionally,
until golden brown, 6–8 minutes. Let cool.
Pulse garlic, cilantro, parsley, capers,
lemon zest, and ¼ cup hazelnuts in a food
processor until finely chopped. With machine
running, gradually add olive oil; season relish
with salt. Coarsely chop remaining hazelnuts.
Heat vegetable oil in a large ovenproof
skillet over medium-high heat. Season
salmon with salt and cook, skin side down,
until skin is crisp (do not disturb), about
4 minutes. Add butter and cook, basting
constantly, 1 minute. Transfer to oven and
roast salmon, basting once, until medium-
rare (mostly opaque but still slightly
translucent in the center), about 3 minutes.
Serve salmon, skin side up, with lettuce,
topped with relish and chopped hazelnuts.
Do aheaD: Relish can be made 6 hours
ahead. Cover and chill.
renee reCoMMenDsPick a wine that can match the brightness of the
relish, like the Cristom 2013 Pinot Gris ($19).
Roasted Salmon with Potatoes
and Herbed Crème Fraîche4 s e r v i n g s Crème fraîche delivers tang
along with creamy butterfat to this
deconstructed salad; Greek yogurt can be
substituted if you wish.
Potatoes
1 ½ lb. small waxy potatoes, scrubbed
Kosher salt
2 Tbsp. olive oil
salMon anD asseMbly
1 1 ½-lb. piece skin-on salmon
1 Tbsp. olive oil, plus more for
drizzling
Kosher salt
½ cup crème fraîche
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh chives, dill,
and/or tarragon, plus tarragon
and dill sprigs for serving
2 radishes, trimmed, thinly sliced
Potatoes Place potatoes in a medium
saucepan and add cold water to cover by 1";
season with salt. Bring to a boil, reduce heat,
and simmer until tender, 15–20 minutes;
drain and pat dry. Let cool slightly, halve
potatoes and toss with oil; season with salt.
salMon anD asseMbly Preheat oven to
400°. Place salmon, skin side down, on a
parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet; rub
with 1 Tbsp. oil and season with salt. Roast
until medium-rare (mostly opaque but still
slightly translucent in the center), 10–15
minutes. Break up salmon into pieces,
removing skin if desired.
Whisk crème fraîche and chopped herbs
in a small bowl; season with salt.
Spread herbed crème fraîche on plates
and top with salmon, potatoes, radishes,
and tarragon and dill sprigs; drizzle with oil.
renee reCoMMenDsFor a rich dish like this, Erickson likes àMaurice
Cellars 2012 Columbia Valley Viognier ($28), a white with hints of honey from one of
her favorite local wineries.
Cured Salmon with
Fennel and Carrot Salad1 2 s e r v i n g s Weighing down the salmon
fillet with heavy cans as it cures
will press excess liquid out of the flesh
to ensure a firm texture.
salMon
1 ¼ cups kosher salt
½ cup sugar
½ cup chopped fennel fronds
¼ cup gin or aquavit
1 1 ½-lb. piece skin-on salmon fillet
salaD anD asseMbly
2 medium carrots, peeled, very
thinly sliced
1 medium fennel bulb, very thinly
sliced, plus 1 Tbsp. chopped
fennel fronds
1 lemon, very thinly sliced
3 Tbsp. olive oil
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt
1 cup plain Greek yogurt
Fennel flowers or fennel pollen
(optional)
sa l M o n Mix salt, sugar, fennel fronds, and
gin in a medium bowl (mixture should feel
like wet sand). Spread half of salt mixture in
a shallow baking dish. Place salmon on top
and cover with remaining salt mixture.
Press a sheet of plastic wrap over salmon
and place a smaller dish or heavy pan on top
(it should be small enough to fit inside the
dish so it rests directly on top of salmon).
Add a couple of heavy cans to empty baking
dish to weigh down salmon. Chill, turning
occasionally, until flesh is firm and slightly
darkened in color, 1–2 days. Rinse salmon
and pat dry.
Do aheaD: Salmon can be cured 1 week
ahead. Tightly wrap and chill.
salaD anD asseMbly Toss carrots, fennel
bulb, and lemon slices with oil and lemon
juice in a large bowl; season with salt and
let sit at room temperature until slightly
softened, about 30 minutes.
Thinly slice cured salmon at an angle
against the grain.
Season yogurt with salt, spread on
plates, and top with cured salmon, fennel
and carrot salad, fennel fronds, and fennel
flowers, if using.
renee reCoMMenDsYou want a dry and citrusy wine,
like the Syncline 2013 Picpoul ($20).
In case we haven’t made ourselves clear, we love wild salmon. But we’re fans
of other tasty, responsibly sourced fish, too. One way to find them: Join a
CSF, the fish-filled sibling of the CSA (you know, where members get boxes of
produce). A community-supported fishery membership will get you a regular
supply of fresh seafood, caught locally using sustainable practices. Your
subscription supports small-scale fisheries and helps keep your seafood from
being sourced from abroad. To find a CSF near you, visit localcatch.org. —J.S.
L.A.’s SqirL is more than a café
but not quite a restaurant,
serving the kind of breakfast
(brioche toast with ricotta and
small-batch jam) and lunch (rice bowls and “Kabbouleh”!)
that we want to eat all day long
by
m at t d u c ko r
photographs by
m i c h a e l g r ay d o n
+ n i ko l e h e r r i ot t
84 bonappetit.com • JUne 2014
Chicken Salad with Crème Fraîche and rye4 servings We’d serve this dressed-down
chicken salad for brunch, pack it
for lunch, or make it as a light dinner on
a hot summer night.
1 large skin-on, bone-in chicken
breast (12–14 oz.)
4 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
¾ cup fresh fava beans (from about
¾ lb. pods) or frozen, thawed
½ small fennel bulb, thinly sliced
1 scallion, thinly sliced
2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped fresh
tarragon
1 Tbsp. Sherry vinegar
or red wine vinegar
½ cup crème fraîche
½ small English hothouse cucumber,
very thinly sliced lengthwise
on a mandoline
¼ cup flat-leaf parsley leaves
½ tsp. finely grated lemon zest
2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
8 slices Danish rye bread or
other dense health bread,
toasted if desired
Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon)
Preheat oven to 425°. Place chicken on
a small rimmed baking sheet and rub with
1 Tbsp. oil; season with kosher salt and
pepper. Roast until golden brown and
cooked through, 25–30 minutes. Let cool,
then shred into bite-size pieces.
If using fresh fava beans, cook in a large
saucepan of boiling salted water until
tender, about 4 minutes. Drain and transfer
to a bowl of ice water. Drain and peel.
(If using frozen fava beans, cook 2 minutes;
transfer to a bowl of ice water, then drain.)
Toss in a large bowl with fennel, scallion,
tarragon, vinegar, chicken, and remaining
3 Tbsp. oil; season with kosher salt, pepper,
and more vinegar, if desired.
Meanwhile, whisk crème fraîche in a
medium bowl to soft peaks (it will look flufy);
season with kosher salt.
Toss cucumber with parsley, lemon zest,
and lemon juice in a small bowl; season
with kosher salt and pepper.
Serve chicken salad with bread,
cucumber, and a dollop of crème fraîche,
topped with sea salt and more pepper.
Do aheaD: Chicken can be cooked
2 days ahead; cover and chill. Shred just
before using. Fava beans can be cooked
2 days ahead; cover and chill.
Sorrel rice Bowls with Poached Eggs4 servings This “put an egg on it” dream
dish is a must-order menu item at Sqirl.
If using kale, you may want to add more
lemon juice to mimic sorrel’s tart sharpness.
2 cups short-grain brown rice
Kosher salt
1 cup (lightly packed) sorrel or kale
leaves (ribs removed, if using kale)
¼ cup olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
1 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar
4 large eggs
1 large watermelon radish or 2 red
radishes, very thinly sliced
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, divided
½ preserved lemon, flesh removed,
peel finely chopped
1 Tbsp. chopped fresh dill, plus
more for serving
2 oz. feta, preferably sheep’s milk,
crumbled
Hot sauce
Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon)
Cook rice in a large pot of boiling salted
water until tender, 45–50 minutes.
Drain rice, return to pot, cover, and let
sit 10 minutes. Spread out on a baking
sheet and let cool completely.
Purée sorrel, oil, and 1 Tbsp. water
in a food processor until smooth; season
with kosher salt and pepper.
Meanwhile, bring 2" water to a boil in a
large saucepan; reduce heat so water is at a
gentle simmer and add vinegar. Crack an egg
into a small bowl, then gently slide egg into
water. Repeat with remaining eggs, waiting
until whites are opaque before adding the
next (about 30 seconds apart). Poach until
whites are set and yolks are still runny, about
3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer
eggs to paper towels as they are done.
Toss radish with 1 Tbsp. lemon juice in a
small bowl; season with kosher salt.
Toss rice, preserved lemon, 1 Tbsp. dill,
remaining 1 Tbsp. lemon juice, and ⅓ cup
sorrel purée in a medium bowl; season with
kosher salt and pepper and mix in more
sorrel purée, if desired.
Serve sorrel rice topped with poached
eggs, radish, feta, hot sauce, more dill,
and sea salt.
Do aheaD: Rice can be cooked 2 days
ahead; cover and chill. Sorrel purée can
be made 2 days ahead; cover and chill.
Bring rice and purée to room temperature
before serving.
the beginning, there was toast.
Specifically, slices of burnt brioche,
topped with homemade ricotta and
spread to the very edges with small-
batch jam in flavors like strawberry–
rose geranium. And with that, Jessica
Koslow turned a year’s kitchen
experience (followed by a three-year
stint as a producer for American
Idol) into Sqirl. What began in 2011
as an upstart preserves operation
quickly spawned a sliver of a café
serving breakfast and lunch in Silver
Lake, Los Angeles’s neighborhood
du jour. Suddenly, people were
waiting 20 minutes for that toast—in
carbophobic L.A.!—forming a literal
breadline to the tiny storefront.
And they kept coming back for
dishes that, at the time, didn’t exactly
come of as crowd-pleasers on paper:
a brown-rice bowl with sorrel pesto
and preserved Meyer lemon; Danish
rye topped with chicken and favas;
and “Kabbouleh,” the vegetal equivalent
of a viral video. But Koslow’s dishes
managed to galvanize the very narrow
crossover of food writers and L.A. salad
obsessives. Turns out that in her hands,
breakfast and lunch are what people
want to eat all day long. (Cookies, too.)
So, why no dinner service? “Breakfast
is the natural progression of the jam,”
explains Koslow, 33, who also saw
an opportunity to bring “an expertise
and desire for experimentation into
meals that don’t necessarily have it.”
For her bravery to go beyond eggs
Benedict, she received four stars
from LA Weekly, among other raves.
Even when many chefs have traded
pork kidneys for kale, the vegetable-
focused menu that Koslow changes
daily stands out. She and chef de
cuisine Ria Dolly Barbosa Wilson might
take something that she refers to
as “grandma-traditional,” like ricotta
cavatelli, execute it perfectly, and then
elevate it to the realm of greatness
by, say, grating cured emu egg yolk
on top. It’s a high-low mix she likens to
wearing H&M with an Hermès watch.
Koslow will soon extend her reach
into another storefront, where she’ll
sell what she calls picnic provisions.
Sqirl still won’t serve dinner, but its
fans—of which there are many here
at BA—will happily eat lunch (and toast)
for dinner if Koslow’s at the stove.
gUtter
what’s the
secret to
sqirl’s most
popular dish?
Start with thin
slices of brioche,
and toast
until extra dark.
Then slather
homemade ricotta
and jam to the
very edges. Knife
and fork definitely
required.
People wait 20 minutes for Sqirl’s toast, forming a literal breadline to the tiny storefront.
gUtter
lemon cake
with raspberries
and pistachios
P. 9 1
black
sesame carrot
cake recipe
at bonappetit
.com/sqirl
clockwise
from top left:
Table-shopping; kale toast;
Koslow on the line; SorrEL
riCE BowL with PoAChEd
Egg (recipe, p. 84); cookie
attack; CriSPy Brown riCE
“KABBouLEh” (recipe, p. 91);
kitchen inspiration board;
server Chloe Godard; LEmon
CAKE with rASPBErriES
And PiStAChioS
(recipe, p. 91); ChiCKEn
SALAd with CrèmE FrAîChE
And ryE (recipe, p. 84);
juicing; rhubarb lemonade.
The breakfast
bar scene.
brown rice
porridge
with hazelnuts
and jam
P. 9 1
in Jessica Koslow’s hands,
breakfast and lunch are what people want to
eat all day long. (Cookies, too.)
carrot
pancakes
with salted
Yogurt
Koslow likens her high-low culinary mix to wearing h&m with an hermès watch.
For more
recipes, go to
BonAPPEtit
.Com/SqirL
JUne 2014 • bonappetit.com 91
about 3 minutes per side. Transfer to
paper towels to drain. Repeat to make
2 more pancakes, adding more oil to
skillet if needed.
Meanwhile, season yogurt with kosher
salt and pepper. Toss greens with lemon
juice and remaining 1 Tbsp. oil; season
with kosher salt and pepper.
Serve carrot pancakes with salad
and salted yogurt, seasoned with sea salt
and more pepper.
Lemon Cake with raspberries and Pistachios
8 s e r v i n g s Choose a mild, not-too-
peppery olive oil for this tender cake;
something fruity will complement
the lemony sweetness, but an assertively
bitter oil will overwhelm.
Nonstick vegetable oil spray
1 ¾ cups all-purpose flour
1 ½ tsp. baking powder
½ tsp. kosher salt
4 large eggs
1 ¼ cups plus 2 Tbsp. sugar
2 tsp. vanilla extract
2 Tbsp. finely grated lemon zest
1 Tbsp. plus ¼ cup fresh lemon juice
¾ cup olive oil
1 cup fresh raspberries
(about 4 oz.)
3 Tbsp. chopped unsalted,
raw pistachios
Preheat oven to 350°. Coat a 9" diameter
cake pan with nonstick spray. Whisk flour,
baking powder, and salt in a small bowl.
Using an electric mixer, beat eggs and
1 cup sugar until light and flufy, about
5 minutes. With mixer running, add vanilla
and 1 Tbsp. lemon juice, then gradually
add oil, mixing just until combined. Fold
in lemon zest and dry ingredients.
Scrape batter into prepared pan and
smooth top. Scatter berries over cake, then
pistachios and 2 Tbsp. sugar. Bake cake
until a tester inserted into the center comes
out clean, 45–55 minutes.
Meanwhile, bring remaining ¼ cup sugar
and remaining ¼ cup lemon juice to a boil
in a medium saucepan, stirring to dissolve
sugar; let lemon syrup cool.
Transfer hot cake (still in pan) to a wire
rack and immediately brush with lemon syrup
(use all of it). Let cake cool completely in pan.
Do aheaD: Cake can be made 2 days
ahead. Store wrapped tightly at room
temperature.
Brown rice Porridge with hazelnuts and Jam
4 s e r v i n g s At Sqirl, they make almond milk
from scratch. You can, too (really):
Visit bonappetit.com/nutmilk for our recipe.
⅓ cup blanched hazelnuts
4 cups unsweetened almond milk
1 cup short-grain brown rice
¼ cup sugar
Pinch of kosher salt
½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise
¼ cup jam (such as plum, apricot,
or peach)
Preheat oven to 350°. Toast hazelnuts
on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing
occasionally, until golden brown, 8–10
minutes. Let cool, then coarsely chop.
Combine almond milk, rice, sugar,
salt, and 4 cups water in a large saucepan;
scrape in vanilla seeds and add pod.
Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer,
stirring occasionally, until rice is very
tender and mixture resembles loose
rice pudding or oatmeal, 60–70 minutes.
Remove vanilla pod. Serve porridge
topped with jam and hazelnuts.
Carrot Pancakes with Salted yogurt
4 s e r v i n g s With a texture somewhere
between a latke and a pancake, these
vegetarian fritters are also gluten-free.
(Thanks, chickpea flour!)
4 large eggs, beaten to blend
1 lb. carrots (about 8 medium),
peeled, coarsely grated
⅓ cup chopped fresh cilantro
¼ cup chickpea flour
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
3 Tbsp. (or more) olive oil, divided
1 cup plain whole yogurt
1 cup spicy greens (such as baby
mustard greens, watercress,
or arugula)
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon)
Mix eggs, carrots, cilantro, and chickpea
flour in a large bowl (mixture will be loose);
season with kosher salt and pepper.
Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet,
preferably cast iron, over medium-high
heat. Scoop two ½-cupfuls of carrot mixture
into skillet, pressing each to ½" thickness.
Cook, rotating skillet occasionally for even
browning, until pancakes are golden brown, Fo
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Crispy Brown rice “Kabbouleh”
4 s e r v i n g s Is it crazy to cook rice, dry
it out, and then deep-fry it? Maybe a little
bit. But when you taste this unique and
addictively crunchy twist on tabbouleh,
you’ll appreciate the efort.
2 Tbsp. dried currants
2 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar
¾ cup short-grain brown rice
Kosher salt
Vegetable oil (for frying;
about 2 cups)
1 ½ cups coarsely chopped
cauliflower florets
½ small bunch curly kale, ribs and
stems removed, leaves coarsely
chopped (about 2 cups)
½ small English hothouse cucumber,
finely chopped
1 scallion, thinly sliced
⅓ cup olive oil
2 tsp. Aleppo pepper or ½ tsp.
crushed red pepper flakes
2 tsp. sumac (optional)
Freshly ground black pepper
special equipment: A deep-fry
thermometer
Combine currants and vinegar in a small
bowl; let sit at least 2 hours and up to 1 day.
Cook rice in a large saucepan of
boiling salted water until tender, 45–50
minutes. Drain rice, return to pot, cover,
and let sit 10 minutes. Spread out on
a baking sheet; let dry out overnight in
an unlit oven or on countertop.
Fit a medium saucepan with thermometer
and pour in vegetable oil to measure 2". Heat
over medium-high heat until thermometer
registers 350°. Working in 4 batches, cook
rice until golden and pufed, about 1 minute.
Using a fine-mesh sieve, transfer pufed
rice to paper towels to drain; season with
salt and let cool.
Meanwhile, pulse cauliflower in a
food processor until finely chopped. Transfer
to large bowl. Working in batches, pulse
kale in food processor until finely chopped
(be careful not to turn into a purée),
adding to cauliflower as you go. Add
pufed rice, currants with soaking liquid,
cucumber, scallion, olive oil, Aleppo pepper,
and sumac, if using; toss to combine
and season with salt, black pepper, and
more vinegar, if desired.
Do aheaD: Rice can be fried 5 days
ahead. Store airtight at room temperature.
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in a food processor. Add
butter and pulse until mixture
resembles coarse cornmeal.
Whisk egg yolks and ¼ cup
ice water in a small bowl and
drizzle over flour mixture.
Pulse, drizzling in more ice
water as needed, until dough
just comes together (a few
dry spots are okay).
Gently knead dough on a
lightly floured surface until no
dry spots remain, about 1 min-
ute. Divide dough in half and
pat each piece into a disk; wrap
in plastic. Chill at least 2 hours.
Do aheaD: Dough can
be made 3 days ahead. Keep
chilled.
Filling anD assembly Preheat
oven to 425°. Let dough sit
at room temperature to soften
slightly, about 5 minutes. Roll
out 1 disk of dough on a lightly
floured surface to a 12" round.
Transfer to a parchment-lined
baking sheet and chill. Repeat
with remaining disk of dough.
Combine granulated
sugar and lime zest in a large
bowl, rubbing together with
your fingertips to release oils
in zest. Whisk in cornstarch and
salt until there are no lumps
in cornstarch. Add cherries and
toss to coat.
Carefully transfer 1 crust to
a 9" pie dish. Lift up edges and
allow dough to slump down
into dish. Trim edges to even
out crust if needed. Scrape in
cherry filling.
Using a ¾"-diameter pastry
tip or cookie cutter, punch
out holes in remaining crust,
covering an area just smaller
than the diameter of pie
dish.* Place over filling. Fold
edge of top crust underneath
edge of bottom crust and
press together to seal. Crimp
as desired. (Alternatively,
assemble pie, then cut X’s
or slits into crust.)
Brush crust with egg
and sprinkle with demerara
sugar. Chill pie until crust is
firm, 20–30 minutes.
Place pie on a parchment-
or foil-lined baking sheet.
Bake until crust is golden,
about 30 minutes. Reduce
oven temperature to 350°
and bake, tenting with foil if
crust is browning too quickly,
until juices are bubbling and
crust is deep golden brown,
50–60 minutes longer. Transfer
to a wire rack and let cool
at least 4 hours before slicing.
Do ahe aD: Pie can
be baked 1 day ahead. Store
tightly wrapped at room
temperature.
8 s e r v i n g s Adding almond
flour to the pastry dough
makes for a super-tender,
toasty-looking crust.
Crust
⅓ cup almond flour
¼ cup granulated sugar
1 tsp. kosher salt
2 ½ cups all-purpose
flour, plus more
for surface
1 cup (2 sticks) chilled
unsalted butter,
cut into pieces
2 large egg yolks
Filling anD assembly
All-purpose flour
for surface
1 cup granulated sugar
1 Tbsp. finely grated
lime zest
3 Tbsp. cornstarch
Pinch of kosher salt
3 lb. fresh sour
cherries, pitted,
or 6 cups frozen
sour cherries
1 large egg, beaten
to blend
Demerara sugar or
granulated sugar
(for sprinkling)
Crust Pulse almond flour,
granulated sugar, salt, and
2 ½ cups all-purpose flour
How do you become one of
the youngest chefs in America
to earn three Michelin stars
while remaining completely
under the radar? Christopher
Kostow stealthily masters the Napa Valley
by Chris Ying
photographs by
Peden + MunK
rutabaga
baked in salt
and soil,
as presented
tableside.
o p p o s i t e :
Larder manager
Cameron
Cole rahtz and
Christopher
Kostow
(right) forage.
96 bonappetit.com • JUne 2014
grasp of terroir with being located in a place that has afuence and that is very close to a major metropolitan area. That’s like the best of all possible worlds.”
T h e R e sTau R a n T aT M e a d owo o d
is part of a 250-acre resort of unspeak-able loveliness. Amenities include tennis courts, croquet lawns, swimming pools, a health spa, a nine-hole golf course, hiking trails, a vintner’s club…. It’s silly to even list them, because Meadowood is one of those places where you can basically ask for anything and someone will make it happen. It’s so adept at making you feel good, I wager you could drag an anar-chist gutter punk from Haight-Ashbury to Meadowood, and—if they were sure no one was watching—they’d be singing “I Could Have Danced All Night” in no time.
The restaurant itself is one of ten in America to earn three stars from the Michelin Guide—and one of only three west of New York City. A third Michelin star is generally reserved for restaurants that pamper the holy bejesus out of their guests: Service is always fawless (the ser-vice at Meadowood, under the all-seeing watch of restaurant director Nathaniel Dorn, is easygoing while still deeply attuned to a guest’s every possible need); the menus will push things in terms of decadence or grandiosity, but never at the expense of the diner’s absolute com-fort. Think of it as skydiving with an instructor—intoxicating, sure, but with a buddy strapped to your back to ensure the sofest possible landing.
The global restaurants that are often noted for the most exhilarating cook-ing tend to be
to get a closer look at the ruins, specu-lating excitedly about what the occupants of each room might have been doing a century ago. As I listened to him, I could begin to see why he had been so eager to get up here.
Napa Soda Springs, with its rich legacy and deep ties to this land, is a link to the past to which he can tie his restaurant.
“Once you learn about and experience something like the Soda Springs, a place like Meadowood starts to make a lot more sense,” Kostow explained.
As we drove away, I asked him to esti-mate the value of the property. “I don’t know,” he said. “Priceless? It’s 900 acres of mountainside land in Napa Valley.” One sensed a feeling of inevitability that the land would eventually fall out of the control of preservationist souls like the current owners—and that, at some point, it will be paved over by more vineyards or a new resort. In the Napa Valley, wine is where the money and the focus are—ofen at the expense of everything else. “The Val-ley has a deep history but a thin veneer,” Kostow explained. Hence his kinship with and interest in Napa Soda Springs and the era it represents: when great restaurants and great food were as much a part of the fabric of the Valley as wine. For their part, Kostow and his team are trying to break up the monoculture of the wine grape in a garden located less than a mile from the restaurant, on a parcel of land that he shares with a Montessori school. The garden yields a signifcant percentage of the herbs, greens, root vegetables, fowers, fruits, and, most recently, snails that the restaurant uses.
“We have an opportunity to have real terroir in a way that very few places do,” he said. “And we’re able to couple that
twisting half-hour drive through hobby vineyards and
vertiginous sheep pastures did nothing positive for
my hangover. The 20 or so courses — plus beverage
pairings — from dinner the previous night were soon
threatening to make a reappearance in the front seat
of chef Christopher Kostow’s car. But early this morning
was the only chance we were going to have to see a
nearly forgotten wonder of California up close.
So I held it together, barely.During the last few decades of the
19th century, Napa Soda Springs was a lavish compound for wealthy socialites, who would travel by ferry and train, then carriage, to the resort, arriving at the entrance of the towering Rotunda Hotel, which could be seen from all over the Val-ley. Visitors to the Springs would work up a sweat on the tennis and croquet lawns, refresh themselves from the naturally efervescent springs, repair to the dining room for “the best of everything to eat,” dance, and then the men would retire to the Club House for cigars and whiskey. More than 120 years ago, the Napa Valley was already a top destination for rich peo-ple looking to part ways with their money.
Kostow, the cerebral 37-year-old chef of the Restaurant at Meadowood in St. Hel-ena, is prone to obsessing over arcana, especially when it comes to the Napa Valley. He’d been trying for months to get a closer look at the ruins of the Soda Springs. (The resort fell into disrepair after the death of its benefactor and developer, Col. John P. Jackson, in 1900.) But at every turn, he’d met resistance: the nay-saying of the Napa County His-torical Society, barbed-wire fencing, no
trespassing signs, even, it’s been said, armed patrols. Every now and then, he would drive to the edge of the 900-acre plot just to peer in, before scampering of lest someone spot him and, you know, pos-sibly shoot him.
But fnally, a barrage of e-mails and phone calls had worn down the property’s current owner, who’d agreed to take him on a rare tour. As we walked the grounds, Kostow, with his thick wooden glasses and a Tintin-esque swoop in his hair, clambered over crumbling foundations
A
(continues on page 100)
Kostow crafts
a dish at the
Restaurant at
Meadowood.
m o r e
m e a d o w o o d
To see Kostow’s
Poussin Baked in
Bread from start
to finish, go to
bonappetit.com
/meadowood
Whipped
yogurt with
salted wild
plum, black
sesame,
and shiso.
K o s t o w d o w n p l ay s h i s u s e o f l u x u r y i n g r e d i e n t s , l i K e h o w w h e n y o u ’ r e a r e a l
b a l l e r y o u d o n ’ t n e e d t o t e l l a n y o n e h o w m u c h y o u s p e n t o n y o u r w a t c h .
The pottery
studio of Richard
Carter, a Kostow
collaborator.
100 bonappetit.com • JUne 2014
two-star places. Noma in Copenhagen, though widely considered to be the home of the most exciting restaurant meal on earth, has famously been denied a third star for years. In a way, Kostow is chasing the same ghost as Noma’s chef, René Redz-epi. Their goal is to connect diners to the specifc favors of their respective regions and to build a reputation for great, pro-gressive cooking where one had not previously existed.
Dinner at Meadowood is a decidedly less buttoned-up affair than at other three-stars. From the moment you walk through the thick wooden doors, you’re struck with the sense of being in a home. Not your home, probably—more like the woodsy summerhouse of a Scandinavian art dealer—but a home nonetheless. The wooden walls are washed with a thin cement glaze that’s warmed by frelight. Guests congregate in the Rotunda (a happy echo of Napa Soda Springs) and
adjoining bar area, and loosen up with a few carefully constructed, invariably interesting cocktails—think herbes de Provence–infused vermouth with berga-mot tincture—before proceeding into the dining room.
Once you’re comfortably nestled into a leather chair, a series of canapés appear in quick succession and Kostow immediately begins to toy with your expectations of tex-ture and temperature. A bite-size shell of black olive meringue flled with whipped olive oil catches you of guard with its frmness. One is programmed to be wary of anything hard when eating an olive, but the shell collapses in a satisfying crunch, and you’re hit with a briny sweetness that I can only describe as olive tofee. Next, fromage blanc and cured lemon in a thin cracker shell that bursts like a Fruit Gush-ers candy. Diminutive baby vegetables (turnip, carrot, radish) lightly fermented overnight in Champagne yeast are by turns spicy and astringent. A kale chip,
pufy and ethereal like a Chinese shrimp cracker, is topped with a purée seasoned like Spanish chorizo and packs a meaty savoriness—without the meat.
The main body of the menu—a choice between eight to ten or 15 to 20 courses, for $225 and $500 respectively—progresses in related pairs or trios, grouped like movements of a symphony. The freshness of perfectly cooked asparagus pervades a bowl of brined whelk, then highlights a dish of surf clam, smoked goat’s butter, and sprouted seeds and grains. The sweet, chewy abductor muscle of the surf clam shows up in the next course, topped with walnuts and walnut oil.
“What’s important to me as a diner is rhythm and speed and cadence,” Kostow explains. “I don’t like meals where I’m sitting there for hours and hours and hours, and there’s 25 minutes between each course. The sort of things that you can do with dishes in twos or threes keeps the diner much more engaged.”
Kostow’s collaboration with potter richard Carter; persimmons ready to be dried.
(continued from page 96)
The Restaurant
at Meadowood’s
artful larder.
The rutabaga
from page 95,
carved and
served with
aerated maple,
pecan, and
white truffle.
JUne 2014 • bonappetit.com 103
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Punctuating these explorations into the multiple uses of single ingredients are moments of unfettered luxury—this is a grand restaurant, afer all. Raw spiny-tail lobster is wrapped in lardo, topped with caviar, and set in a spoonful of rich pork stock. A glistening, mahogany Parker House roll stands by for juice-soaking duty. Here, and throughout the menu, Kostow downplays his use of luxury ingre-dients, like how when you’re a real baller you don’t need to tell anyone how much you spent on your watch. The caviar is hid-den under tiny succulent leaves, seasoning rather than gilding the lobster.
“There needs to be a perception of value, but I think our diners are extremely sophisticated,” he says. “I want them to experience luxury, but it’s more our def-nition of luxury.” Kostow describes it as “concern and care. I don’t think anyone leaves feeling like they weren’t incredibly cared for.”
In a moment between courses during my last dinner there, the couple next to me, seeing that I was being treated with familiarity and what they perceived to be extra-special kindness, leaned over and asked, “Are you a regular?”
In my notebook, I have a note that reads: Ha! I thought they were regulars.
’ll adMiT ThaT i neveR ThoughT to visit Meadowood until a few months ago. When it landed its third Michelin star in 2011, I imagine I let out a puz-zled: “What the hell is Meadowood?”
“We are a restaurant in a town of 5,000 people,” Kostow explains. “We’re not in a major city. We’re expensive. We’re not easy to fnd. But what we do is very timely.”
It all raises the question: If Meadowood were in New York or San Francisco or Chi-cago, would Kostow be a celebrity by now? His career has been a rocket screaming through the upper echelons of fne din-ing, picking up accolades and stars with startling frequency. Kostow studied philosophy at Hamilton College in New York State before cooking in San Diego, Paris, and Montpellier, France; he was a sous chef under Daniel Humm while he was running the best kitchen in San Francisco, at Campton Place, and then moved on to his frst head chef position, at Chez TJ in Mountain View, an hour south of San Francisco. Kostow quickly earned a Michelin star at Chez TJ—then
a second—before arriving at Meadowood in 2009 and, just two years later, becom-ing the fourth youngest chef ever to be awarded three stars.
Though he accomplished most of this on the DL, Kostow and Meadowood are now primed to storm the scene. In 2013, the James Beard Foundation named him the best chef in the West. He has a line of ceramics due out this summer and a cook-book in the fall. Yet in our conversations, I sense a distinct anxiety at the prospect of being launched into the spotlight.
“I don’t need to be famous,” he says. “I think the idea of chefs being famous is a joke. Your most famous chef is less famous than your least famous person on Dancing
with the Stars.”I discuss all of this with him during
another drive on the serpentine dirt roads of the Valley, this time to meet his friend and new business partner, the sculp-tor and ceramics artist Richard Carter. Carter’s studio is a breathtaking home-stead from the 1870s, tucked in a small unincorporated stretch of North Napa called Pope Valley. The place gives the impression of a hippie commune that’s been injected with the industrious energy of a tech start-up. In a converted prune-drying shed, primitive-looking kilns yield rustic plates, bowls, and pitchers that will ultimately form the basis of the Carter/Kostow line of ceramics.
The prototypes are thick, with slow curves, like something primordial that has been barely tamed into elegance. The clay is speckled with iron that burns into random rust-brown fecks in the glaze. The inspiration for the serving bowl shape is an old tractor part. The look is defnitely of this place, if not necessarily this time.
I ask Kostow if he’ll use the plates at Meadowood, and he hesitates before saying, “Eventually, yes.” When I press a little fur-ther, Kostow reveals a reluctance to share what he’s building out here in the woods. It seems like it’s related to the feeling of anxiety he expressed to me about publiciz-ing Napa Soda Springs. He’d like for more people to know about it, to understand that Meadowood is part of an illustrious lineage of fantastical resorts, but he also voiced numerous reservations about my bringing it up in this article. At the end of the day, he’s a champion of the art, the people, the stories, and the food of the Napa Valley because he loves it here. He’s wary of what sharing these things means: people covet-ing it, imitating it, taking it, ruining it.
And so, Kostow is planting his roots deep into the Napa soil, making sure he’ll be around to see his work through. “I plan to be here for the long run,” he says. “Who else is going to be the steward of this place and these products?” He speaks dreamily about another restaurant, something big and bustling and simple, spearheaded by his longest-tenured lieutenants—it’s the typical dream of a fne-dining chef who works under constant scrutiny. It’s also a distraction from the confict at the core of what he does these days. Meadowood has quietly grown into one of the fnest res-taurants you’ve probably never heard of. Kostow knows it’s for the best that he get out and bang the drum for the restaurant, but part of him wants to keep this place and these lovely things to himself, if only for a moment more.
chris ying is a former line cook, onetime
publisher of McSweeney’s Books, and now
the editor in chief of Lucky Peach magazine.
“ I t h I n k t h e
I d e a o f c h e f s
b e I n g fa m o u s
I s a j o k e ,”
s ay s k o s t o w.
“ y o u r m o s t
fa m o u s c h e f I s
l e s s fa m o u s
t h a n y o u r
l e a s t fa m o u s
p e r s o n o n
D a n c i n g w i t h
t h e S ta r S .”
JUNE 2014 • boNappEtit.com 107 P h o t o g r a P h s b y z a c h d e s a r t
prep schoolT e c h n i q u e s , T i p s , a n d m o r e f r o m T h e b o n a p p é T i T T e s T k i T c h e n
c u tawayc R u S t
As fruit
pies bake, they release
steam, which is why
the top crust needs
to be vented (trapped
moisture equals soggy
pastry). Cutting simple
slits is fine, but
we love the way these
circular cutouts look.
It’s easy: Use the point
of a large pastry tip
(about ¾" diameter) to
punch out circles in
the dough, leaving a 3"
border. Be sure to
allow a little space
between them to avoid
tears. —Alison RomAn
from p. 93
For a diferent
look, arrange
the holes in a tidy
concentric pattern.
MAKE MORE MAYO
The magic of mayo starts with
a strong emulsion. Even more
magical? You can customize
it endlessly. Add harissa paste,
chopped chiles, anchovies,
cayenne, grated garlic,
cornichons, shallots...stop
us anytime. —A.R.
P r e P s c h o o l
Radish greens are peppery,
like arugula— eat them!
Choose firm, perky-looking radishes with taut (not cracked) flesh.
Claire Saffitz,
assistant
food editor
TEST KITCHEN TALK
4 E astEr Egg
Can be red, pink,
white, or purple in
color; similar in
taste and texture
to Cherry Belle.
3 FrEnch
BrE akFast
Mild in flavor and
ultra-crunchy,
great for eating raw
as well as roasting.
1 WatErmElon
Prized for its stun-
ning inner beauty
(and sturdiness),
it’s best shaved raw
or lightly pickled.
2 chErry BEllE
The red, round
supermarket
radish. Slice thin
and toss into salads
or onto tacos.
5 Bl ack spanish
The spiciest of
them all; excellent
for pickling or
grating (like you
would horseradish).
Whisk egg
yolk, mustard, and
lemon juice in a
small bowl to blend.
Whisking
constantly, drizzle
in oil, drop by drop,
until mayonnaise
starts to thicken.
Continue
whisking, adding oil
in a steady stream.
Mayonnaise should
be thick and glossy.
Plastic squeeze bottles are
standard issue in restaurant
kitchens, where chefs use
them to keep sauces, cooking
oils, and dressings within arm’s
reach. This is one of those
pro tools that works just as well at home. In the BA Test
Kitchen, we decant big cans of olive oil into smaller
bottles and keep them next to our stove-tops, along
with vegetable oil and sticky stuf, like honey and agave.
Paper-towel collars absorb drips, and painter’s tape is
handy for making labels. —CARlA lAlli musiC
Pitting olives used to be
one of those purgatorial
kitchen tasks, until
I learned this trick: Crush a couple
of olives at a time under
the flat side of your chef’s
knife, pressing gently for
softer types, such as Gaeta,
and giving the firmer ones like Cerignola a
good whack. The pits should pop right out.
Anything I can dip in butter and salt is my idea of a perfect food. That’s why I love radishes—
from French Breakfasts, with their diminutive size and oblong shape (fine, they’re my favorite), to spicy
Easter Eggs and the mild tasting but visually vibrant watermelon radish. —A.R.
T h e C R U N C h b U N C hfrom p. 40
1
2
3
4
5
108 boNappEtit.com • JUNE 2014
BOTTLE
SERVICE
ill
Us
tr
at
ioN
s:
br
Uc
E h
Ut
ch
iso
N (
ma
yo
), d
EN
isE
NE
st
or
(p
or
tr
ait
)
P r e P s c h o o l
Beautifully browned scallops are easy to achieve if you
know where to start. At the fish counter, ask for additive-free “dry”
scallops. (“Wet” scallops are soaked in a preservative that also
adds water; they won’t sear as well and expel liquid as they cook.)
High heat and a hands-of approach take care of the rest. —A.R.
T h e s C a l l o p e d g efrom p. 40
1 Blot scallops
dry With
papEr toWEl
Remove surface mois-
ture before seasoning
(do this even if they’re
“dry”). Preheat a
cast-iron pan over
medium-high heat.
2 makE surE
thE oil is hot
There should be
an audible sizzle
when you
add the scallops.
Don’t disturb
them—you risk
tearing the flesh.
3 sE ar First,
thEn turn
Check by peeking
underneath. If
the underside
is browned and
scallops release
easily, turn to sear
the second side.
BERRY BASICS
In-season berries are delicate. To keep them for a day
or two, refrigerate in a single layer on a baking sheet lined
with paper towels. Rinsing will only hasten their demise, so hold
of until you’re ready to use them. —C.L.M.
from p. 19
Fo
od
st
yl
iNg
by
al
iso
N r
om
aN
bon appétit is a registered trademark of advance magazine publishers inc. copyright © 2014 condé nast. all rights reserved. printed in the u.s.a. volume 59, no. 6. Bon Appétit (ISSn 0006-6990) is published monthly by Condé nast, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. principal office: The Condé nast Building, 4 Times Square, new York, nY 10036. S. I. newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Oficer; Robert A. Sauerberg, Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Oficer & Chief Financial Oficer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Oficer. Periodicals postage paid at new York, nY, and at additional mailing ofices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement no. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration no. 123242885-RT0001. Canada Post: Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 874, Station Main, Markham, On L3P 8L4. postmaster: send all uaa to cfs. (see dmm 707.4.12.5); non-postal and military facilities: send address corrections to Bon Appétit, P.O. Box 37614, Boone, IA 50037-0614. for subscriptions, address changes, adjustments, or back issue inquiries: Please write to Bon Appétit, P.O. Box 37614, Boone, IA 50037-0614, call 800-765-9419, or e-mail [email protected]. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. subscribers: If the Post Ofice alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within eight weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to Bon Appétit Magazine, 4 Times Square, new York, nY 10036. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call 717-505-9701, ext. 101. For reuse permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at BonAppetit.com. To subscribe to other Condé nast magazines on the World Wide Web, visit CondenastDigital .com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that ofer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these ofers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 37614, Boone, IA 50037-0614 or call 800-765-9419. bon appétit is not responsible for the return or loss of, or for damage or any other injury to, unsolicited manuscripts, unsolicited artwork (including, but not limited to, drawings, photographs, and transparencies), or any other unsolicited materials. those submitting manuscripts, photographs, artwork, or other materials for consideration should not send originals, unless specifically requested to do so by bon appétit in writing. manuscripts, photographs, and other materials submitted must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope.
21 3
sourcebook
COOK THE COVER
Sour Cherry Pie p. 93
APPETIZERs
Cured Salmon with Fennel and Carrot Salad p. 81
Minty Spinach Dip p. 20
Shrimp with Mustard-Lime Dipping Sauce p. 14
BREAKfAsT
Brown Rice Porridge with Hazelnuts and Jam p. 91
BEVERAGEs
Alive and Kicking p. 32
Caffè Shakerato p. 32
Dublin Iced Coffee p. 32
The Elvis p. 14
Extra-Stormy Dark and Stormy p. 68
Spinach-Honeydew Cooler p. 20
Strawberry-Ginger Lemonade p. 68
sOUP
Green Minestrone p. 43
sALADs
Barley, Fennel, and Beet Salad p. 66
Bean Salad with Lemon and Herbs p. 66
German Potato Salad with Dill p. 66
Grain Salad with Puffed Red Quinoa and Labneh p. 17
Spinach Salad with Dates p. 20
MAIN COURsEs
fIsH, sEAfOOD
Butter-Basted Salmon with Hazelnut Relish p. 81
Poached Salmon with Artichoke Confit p. 78
Roasted Salmon with Potatoes and Herbed Crème Fraîche p. 81
Scallops with Hazelnuts and Warm Sun Gold Tomatoes p. 40
Slow-Cooked Salmon with Turnips and Swiss Chard p. 78
Smoked Salmon Tartines with Fried Capers p. 78
MEAT
Salt-and-Pepper Steak p. 67
Steak Tacos with Cilantro-Radish Salsa p. 40
POULTRY
Chicken Salad with Crème Fraîche and Rye p. 84
Nashville-Style Hot Chicken p. 50
VEGETARIAN
Carrot Pancakes with Salted Yogurt p. 91
Sorrel Rice Bowls with Poached Eggs p. 84
PAsTA
Cavatelli with Zucchini and Leeks p. 69
Orecchiette with Corn, Greens, and Ricotta p. 69
Spaghetti with Tomatoes and Anchovy Butter p. 69
VEGETABLEs,
sIDE DIsHEs
Classic Coleslaw p. 54
Crispy Brown Rice “Kabbouleh” p. 91
Crushed Beets with Lemon Vinaigrette p. 36
DREssINGs,
MIsCELLANEOUs
Canal House Classic Vinaigrette p. 47
Canal House Green Goddess Dressing p. 47
Lemon-Anchovy Vinaigrette p. 47
Lemon-Ginger Brew p. 68
Simplest Asian Dressing p. 47
DEssERTs
Banana Meringue Pudding p. 54
Blackberry-Tarragon Paletas p. 70
Burmese Semolina Cake p. 17
Cucumber-Lime Paletas p. 70
Lemon Cake with Raspberries and Pistachios p. 91
Raspberry-Melon Paletas p. 70
Sour Cherry Pie p. 93
Summer Fruit Crisp p. 71
recipe index JUNE 20 14
TRAVEL PLANNER
R.s.V.P. pp. 14–17betony 41 W. 57th St., NYC; 212-465-2400; betony-nyc.com son of a gun 8370 W. Third St., Los Angeles; 323-782-9033; sonofagunrestaurant.com the spice island tea house 253 Atwood St., Pittsburgh; 412-687-8821; spiceislandteahouse.com town 348 Main St., Carbondale, CO; 970-963-6328; towncarbondale.com
THE ba Q&A:
sIR PATRICK sTEwART p. 24 stone park cafe 324 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn, NY; 718-369-0082; stoneparkcafe.com
THE DRINK:
COffEE COCKTAILs p. 32 planter’s house 1000 Mississippi Ave., St. Louis; 314-696-2603; plantershousestl .com soda & swine 2943 Adams Ave., San Diego; 619-269-7632; sodaandswine.com
NAVIGATOR:
BARCELONA pp. 56–60 la boqueria 91 La Rambla; +34-933-18-25-84; boqueria.info la cova fumada 56 Carrer del Baluart; +34-932-21-40-61 federal 39 Carrer del Parlament; +34-931-87-36-07; federalcafe.es/barcelona la guingueta de la barceloneta Platja de Sant Sebastià; carlesabellan.es /la-guingueta-de-la-barceloneta hotel omm 265 Carrer del Rosselló; +34-934-45-40-00; hotelomm.es ideal cocktail bar 89 Carrer d’Aribau;
+34-934-53-10-28; idealcocktailbar.com joan la llar del pernil La Boqueria, Stall 667, 91 La Rambla; +34-933-17-95-29 monvÍnic 249 Carrer de la Diputació; +34-932-72-61-87; monvinic.com/en morro fi 171 Carrer del Consell de Cent; morrofi.cat el quim La Boqueria, Stall 608, 91 La Rambla; +34-933-01-98-10; elquimdelaboqueria.com/en rocambolesc 50 Carrer de Santa Clara, Girona; +34-972-41-66-67; rocambolesc.com tickets 164 Avinguda del Paral•lel; +34-932-92-42-53; ticketsbar.es/web/en vinÇon 96 Passeig de Gracia; +34-932-15-60-50; vincon .com/en
INTO THE wILD pp. 72–81buck bay shellfish farm 77 EJ Young Rd., Olga, WA; 360-376-5280; buckbayshellfishfarm.com inn at ship bay 326 Olga Rd., Orcas Island, WA; 877-276-7296; innatshipbay.com long live the kings 1326 Fifth Ave., Suite 450, Seattle; 206-382-9555; lltk.org the whale wins 3506 Stone Way N, Seattle; 206-632-9425; thewhalewins.com
sQIRL POwR pp. 82–91sqirl 720 N. Virgil Ave., Los Angeles; 323-284-8147; sqirlla.com
ALL QUIET ON THE wEsTERN
fRONT pp. 94–103the restaurant at meadowood 900 Meadowood Ln., St. Helena, CA; 707-967-1205; therestaurantatmeadowood.com
back of the napkin
CeeLo’s desert-island
dessert, written in L.A. on March 14,
2014. His Yorkie took
a chunk out of the corner.
C e e L o G r e e n“I don’t eat a lot of junk food anymore,
but I sure remember it,” sighs CeeLo Green,
recording artist and former coach on The
Voice. “I used to go through boxes of Little
Debbies. I liked Star Crunch, and of course
those oatmeal pies.” These days, the “Forget
You” singer, who is starring in a new reality
show on TBS (CeeLo Green’s The Good Life),
keeps things more moderate on the food
front. Sure, he still puts potato chips on
hot dogs, but instead of snack cakes, he goes
for Pinkberry. About that frozen yogurt:
Green is devoted and evangelical, rattling
of favorite flavors and admitting that he
usually knows what he wants to order
before he even arrives. “I’m a regular—
I’m like Norm from Cheers,” he laughs. Just
don’t expect too many dirty details. “My
relationship with food is intimate. I don’t eat
and tell.” —Alison Rosen
Fo
oD
ST
YL
ING
BY
AL
ISo
N A
TT
eN
Bo
ro
uG
h.
Pr
oP
ST
YL
ING
BY
kA
Le
N k
AM
INS
kI.
IL
Lu
ST
rA
TIo
N B
Y M
r.
MA
Ne
L.
k
Ar
Te
LL
DA
rk
Go
LD
CIN
DY
LA
MP,
AB
Ch
oM
e.C
oM
.
w e i r d e s t i t e m i n
h i s f r i d g e
“Baby food for puppies.
I just got a Yorkie
named Zu.”
c r e a t u r e o f
c o m f o r t
“I may sample at Pinkberry,
but when I find a flavor I like,
I’m pretty committed to it.”
P h o t o g r a P h b y D a n n y K i m