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Tuni/Knit House Sock Pattern
Greetings from Tuni C. Weaver!
Welcome to my 2nd(freebie) PDF pattern. It is tricky, but I tried to make it clear.
This is all my original work and I consider all of my pictures and descriptions copyrighted.
Skills that will be illustrated
Shaping techniques in Tunisian crochet. Folding over the Tunisian fabric and sealing up the side edges, while doing increases or
decreases to create sock toes and sock heels
Pulling up loops from the edge of the fabric, then knitting from themMaterials Needed
Worsted weight yarn G/US 6/4.0 mm crochet hook US 3/3.25 mm knitting needlesAside I have given instructions for my foot (which measures 21.0 cm in diameter around the ball
of my foot) and my Tunisian gauge (which is 1.6 stitches/cm).
To adjust the width of the sock, do a test swatch and, instead of 16 stitches, start the sockwith: (# ) =0.95 x (diameter/2) x (your gauge)
The length measurement unit cancels out, so you can use inches and stitches/inch insteadof cm and stitches/cm, if you wish. Please note:I do NOT recommend changing hook size in order to adjust your gauge to
mine.
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Overview of StepsUse Tunisian Simple Stitch (TSS) to create a sock toe, sole and heel by:
1. Creating a 16-stitch row of TSS (the 16 can vary for different widths/gauges)2. Decreasing on both sides until you have half of the stitches you started with (8)3. Folding the fabric and sealing the fabric sides as you do increases, to make the toe4. After sealing the early work, continuing on with less frequent increases, to create the sole5. Just before the sole meets the middle of the arch, doing a couple of consecutive increases
to mark the spot, then decreasing every subsequent row down to eight (8) stitches, to
start the heel
6. Sealing the sides and increasing the ends of the rows to make the 2ndpart of the heel7. Continuing the heel decreases until they meet and binding off the endUse knit rib for the rest of the sock:
8. Pull loops from the open end of the toe9. Knit a rectangle of rib until you have two (2) rows for every row of Tunisian crochet
before the heel join
10.Continue to knit with increases in every row until you have two (2) more rows for everyrow of Tunisian crochet above the heel join
11. Use the same yarn to pull up loops at the stub end of the heel12.Knit 1 x 1 ribbing continuously (in-the-round) around the top of the sockFinishing:13.Bind the top of the sock off14.Whip stitch the sides of the knit rib to the Tunisian crochet
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Detailed StepsStarting the toe:
1. Chain 16 and pull up 16 loops to start.
2. Do 3 rows of Tunisian Simple Stitch
(TSS) of 16 stitches per row.Be careful to leave the ends neat, becauseyou'll be working into them later.
3. From here, do decreases in each row.
For each decrease, grab two (2) loops
instead of one during the return pass.
I recommend locating your decreases three (3) stitches from each edge.
4. Continue decreasing until you are down to eight (8) stitches per row (or half the number
that you started with).
Do another 8-stitch row, followed by thenext return pass up until the 2nd to last
stitch.
(This completes the first part of the toe,
youllstart folding and sealing the fabric
next.)
5. Folding the 1st corner:
You start with two (2) loops on the hook,
as shown in Pic 1.
Twist the hook around and hook thechain thats shown on the green hook in
Pic 2, then pull a loop through everything
on the hook.
(You should enter the fabric from the
good side, as shown by the green hook.)
6. As you start the forward pass,
do an increase at the edge, by hooking under an edge bar and pulling up another loop.
Pic 3shows this edge bar on the green
hook, while the three (3) red lines pointto the next three (3) front vertical bars
beyond the edge stitch.
Please notice that the 1stone is easy to
miss and to skip.
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7. Next, do a standard forward pass of TSS up until just before the last stitch.
8. Folding the 2nd corner:
As you do the last stitch, hook the usual
end threads.
Then continue on, twisting to hookunder the chain face thats beyond theone underneath the working row.
Pic 4shows the chain face with the
green hook. Youll need to twist in
from the good side of the fabric like the
green hook does.
9. Do another increase on this side by pulling an extra loop through the outer bar.
Pic 5shows the result of starting the fold and doing an increase on both sides.
10. Continue to do increases at both
edges and seal up both sides until you
are back to 16 stitches per row (or the
number that you started with).
(Hint: sometimes it's tough to find the
"next" chain face down at the end of the
forward post, because it looks like its 2
down. ...And multicolored yarn helps a
lot.)
11. Continue to seal up the sides untilyou run out of back fabric to seal up.
See Pic 6for how this should look.
That finishes the toe--now you are ready to continue on and TSS the rest of the sole.
12. For the next part of the sole, do
increases in every 4th row until you
reach the highest part of foots arch.
Do the increases between the 3rdand
4thstitches from each end.
To do the increases:
Work from the back of the fabric and
pull the back vertical bar backward and
finish by pulling a loop through it (this
is a Reverse Stitch).
Next, return to the front of the fabric and use the matching front vertical bar to do a single
Simple stitch.
13. When you reach the arch, do two (2) consecutive rows of increases to mark the spot.
You are about to start on the heel.
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14. Next, do a forward pass with no
increases and record the number of stitches in
the row (this will vary, depending on the
length of your foot).
You'll be returning to this number of stitches
again by the end of the heel.
15. So next, start the decreases that form the
first part of the heel.
You use the same technique as for the first
part of the toe, except this time youre
starting out with more stitches and
decreasing down to the same eight (8)
stitches.
...So the heel will be bigger than the toe, but
otherwise very similar.Once the first part of the heel is done, the
work should resemble Pic 7.
While youre here, its a really good idea to
check the length of the sole. It should
stretch slightly to look like Pic 8.
16. Now fold both corners and increase
back up to your recorded number or stitcheswhile sealing the sides, in the same manner
as for the second part of the toe.
17. To make the back of the rest of the heel
(the part on the back of the ankle, use the
same technique again to make consecutive
decreases, until the decreases meet.
Do a final Tunisian bind-off row on the top.
After binding off, leave a long yarn tailto
whip stitchthe knit work to the Tunisiancrochet.
When you're done, the work should resemble Pic 9.
The foot in question should probably try it on to make sure it does.
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18. Switching to the knit part:
Pull loops onto your Tunisian
hook at the toe end of the work.
Once you have them, transfer
them to a US 3/ 3.25 mm
knitting needle.
If you started with 16 stitches and
include the first side loop and a
transition loop, you should end
up with the 19 loops shown in
Pic 10.
(Since this is a large increase from 16 stitches,
it creates a roomy house sock, rather than one intended to fit inside of a shoe.)
19. After you've pulled the loops, knit
a rectangle of 2x1 ribbing from them.For 19 loops, do
K/PPK/PPK/PPK/PPK/PPK/PPK on the
back side and do
K/KKP/KKP/KKP/KKP/KKP/KKK on the
front side.
At this point, your work should look
something like Pic 11.
20. Count the number of chain faces
left on the Tunisian edgebefore the
heel join and record this number.
Later you will be sewing every two (2)
rows of knit work to each chain face.
If doing knit stitches at the end of each
row on both sides (as I recommend),
the edge pattern should repeat every
2ndrow, making it easy to count rowsof two.
This is shown in Pic 12.
So... for Step 22, you want tomake enough rows of
rectangular ribbing
to sew two (2) knit rows to
every Tunisian row before the
join.
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21. Next, count and record the number of edge chain facesbeyond the join. You will need
2x this number of knit rows with increases in them.
Do an invisible increase in the middle of the bars of knit on alternate rows (each time the
front of the fabric faces you).
Start by doing the 2 outer bars, then do the next 2 going inward, then the last 2.This should produce a 3 x 1 rib all the way across.
22. Repeat this pattern of increases until you have two (2) rows of knit ribbing for every
additional row of Tunisian fabric.
By then, the knit fabric should resemble Pic 13, with each rib spreading wider as it goes.
23. Do the last row on the front side by alternating knit and purl stitches, without increases.
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24. Next, continue on with the
same yarn and pull up loops from
the stub end of the heel.
Youllneed an even total number of
stitches to make the 1x1 band of rib
at the top of the sock, so pull an oddnumber of loops if you had an odd
number of knit stitches.
25. Once the loops are ready, use
the same yarn to continue the 1x1 rib
in the round.
After a few rows of 1x1 ribbing your
work should resemble Pic 14.
(This work was done on two (2)
circular needles, but DPNs are also
good.)
26. Continue with 1x1 rib until you
have around inch (about 1 1/4 cm)
then bind off the work very loosely
or use Jenys Surprisingly Stretchy
Bind Off fromhttp://knitty.com/ISSUEfall09.FEATjssbo.php
Again,you should leave a long yarn tailfor the other seam between the knit and Tunisiancrochet parts.
27. The sock is almost finished.
Its time to whip stitch the parts
together, as shown in the Extra Pic.
28. When you are done, weave in
any loose ends and...
Congratulations!!
Thats all there is to it.
http://knitty.com/ISSUEfall09.FEATjssbo.phphttp://knitty.com/ISSUEfall09.FEATjssbo.phphttp://knitty.com/ISSUEfall09.FEATjssbo.phphttp://knitty.com/ISSUEfall09.FEATjssbo.php