Characteristics of Normal and Damaged Hair
Texture – This is the size or diameter of a single hair.
Course Hair Medium Hair Fine Hair
Porosity : The ability of the hair to absorb moisture
• This is related to the condition of the hair and whether it has been
chemicallytreated (permed or coloured).• Porosity is all about the condition of the cuticle, which is the outside layer of the hair.
• Resistant -The cuticle layer is tightly closed.
• The hair looks shiny or glassy. • The hair is in good condition • Normal -The cuticle is slightly
open.
• Porous -The cuticle is more open. • The hair is a bit dull looking, and feels slightly
rough. • The ends are dry possibly because of tinting, or
a lot of exposure to sun and swimming.
• Extremely Porous -The cuticle is very open and damaged. The hair is very dull and dry. Usually this hair is double processed. Eg: has had both a perm and tint. Or the hair is bleached.
•FACTORS AFFECTING HAIR
COLOUR
Melanin•Melanin is the colour pigment granules of skin and hair.
•Melanin is produced by special cells where the germinal matrix joins the papilla called melanocytes.
MELANINNATURAL COLOUR PIGMENTS
Melanocytes • Melanocytes secrete melanin into cells of
the hair shaft soon after they are formed to give hair its colour.
GERMINAL MATRIX
Factors affecting Hair Colour
• Type of Melanin
• Amount of Melanin
• Position of Melanin
• Heredity
Types of Melanin
• There are two types of melanin
found in the hair:
•Eumelanin (black & brown)
•Pheomelanin (red& yellow)
EUMELANIN & PHEOMELANIN
Factors affecting Natural Pigment
Hereditary The colour of our hair is influenced by our genetic background and racial backgrounds.
BLOND HAIR• Mainly YELLOW pigments• Small amount of brown• Tiny amount red & black
RED HAIR• Mainly RED & YELLOW pigments• Fewer brown & black
DARK BROWN HAIR
• Contains more pigment• Equal mix of all types
Absence of Pigment in Skin and Hair
Canities• Is the result of a breakdown in normal
pigment production in the melanocytes.
Canities is hair that contains no pigment
• ( white hair) the melanocytes at the base
of the follicle stop producing melanin.
AlbinismTends to appear in certain families.
Albinos have no pigment in their hair,
skin and eyes, and because of this
have a low tolerance to sunlight.
WHITE HAIR• CANITIES- melanocytes cease production• natural aging• ALBINISM –complete lack of pigment
Factors affecting CHEMICAL
REFORMATION
Alkaline Perm Solutions
Ammonium Thioglycollate (alkaline solution)
• Ammonium Hydroxide Swells and softens the hair• Opens the cuticle
+•Thioglycollic Acid
Penetrates into cortex and
breaks the bonds that hold the hair
in its original position.
Alkaline solutions are suitable for:
• Resistant/hard to wave hair
• Chemically untreated hair
• Tinted or mildly porous hair
Acid perm solutions
•The active ingredient in acid perms is glyceryl monothioglycolate
• PH 6.9-7.2
Glycerol monothioglycolate (acid perm solution)
• Thioglycollic acidPenetrates into cortex and breaks
the bonds that hold the hair in its original position.
+Glycerine
ACID SOLUTIONS ARE SUITABLE FOR:
• Sensitised or damaged hair
• All hair textures particularly fine hair