EliTe®CompactSet V5EliTwist®CompactSet V5
22
The purpose of a genuine compact spinning process is to arrange
the fibres in a completely parallel and close position before twist
is imparted and is responsible for the characteristic advantages of
compact yarn.
All successful compact systems including EliTe® use suction and
an inclined suction slot to compact the yarn. The EliTe®System is
practically independent of the basic ring spinning machine, and can
be fitted on many different models. SUESSEN supplies everything,
which is needed to upgrade a conventional ring spinning frame, but
also not more than is needed.
With the newly developed Central Duct System (CDS), the vacuum
is produced by means of one or two central ducts. These ducts are
usually fitted in the area of the creel. One EliTube on the left and on
the right of the machine respectively are connected to the ducts
with flexible hoses, tubes and a distributor.
The ducts are connected to a central filter box. The uniform vacuum
at all spinning positions is realized with various orifices. The speed
of the fan and the resulting vacuum can be adjusted by a frequency
inverter. Reduced maintenance and energy consumption, as well as
faster erection create a cost-saving effect.
The complete scope consists of the following:
In the Drafting
• EliTube Advanced with EliTube Concept
• EliTop complete with cots
• Pneumafil suction tube
• Optional: ACP Quality Package
• Optional: front bottom roller
• Optional: HP-GX 3010 Top Weighting Arm
In the Gear End
• Reinforcement of the gear end
Vacuum system
• EliVAC Central Duct System (CDS), including central filter box
and ducts, frequency inverter, all hoses, brackets, manifolds,
etc.
(Note: the creel modification necessary for EliTwist® should be
procured locally).
The EliTe®Spinning Principle
33
Basic technical data
• Exhaust approximately
1.0 litres/spindle/sec (EliTe®)
1.5 litres/spindle/sec (EliTwist®)
• Dynamic pressure at the exit of the filter box: 0.5 - 2.0 mbar
• Additional power consumption about 6 W/spindle
• Dispatch weight “CDS” without top weighting arms and front
bottom roller:
LMW machines: about 1.6 kg/spindle
KTTM machines: about 1.8 kg/spindle
• 3 x 1200 spindles for EliTe® “CDS” in one 40’ container
EliTube Concept
Using EliTube Advanced and EliTube Concept allows processing
fibres on two yarn paths on the cots of the front top roller and the
EliTe®Roller. This doubles lifetime of the cots and reduces buffing of
EliTop cots by half.
Description
The EliTube Concept applies suction slots with two different direc-
tions of inclination. So the friction work of the spinning process
takes place only in the left or right half of the top roller cots of the
EliTops.
When it is time for a scheduled cot grinding procedure, just take the
complete EliTops from the left machine side and install them on the
right machine side and vice versa. Now the other half of the cot is
engaged in the spinning process. Only when the other part is worn,
it is time for the scheduled grinding process.
suction slot slanted to the left suction slot slanted to the right
left-slanting suction slot right-slanting suction slot in the compacting process
44
1. Start with new cot 2, Spinning procedure 3. Time to change
5. Spinning procedure4. Start on alternative cot side 6. Time for buffing cot
Move EliTop from one suction slot inclination type to the other inclination type = other machine side
suction slot slanted to the right
suction slot slanted to the left
55
1. EliTe®Yarn• Drastically increased yarn strength – up to 10 to 20% higher
• Drastically reduced hairiness - up to 30% lower (Uster H), up to
85% lower (Zweigle S3)
• Much improved elongation – up to 15% higher (Cotton), up to
20% higher (Wool)
• Much higher work capacity – up to 50% higher
• Often to better yarn evenness – CV% up to 5% better
• Lower IPI values – up to 35% less
2. Process AdvantagesRing Spinning
• Better spinning stability
• Less ends-down by 30 to 60%
• Less twist – up to 10% less for same yarn strength, thus higher
production
Winding
• Higher winding speeds are possible
Twisting
• Single EliTe®Yarn instead of classic two ply yarn
Weaving preparation
• Less fly generation and less ends-down on warping machines,
thus higher warping efficiency
• Less sizing – 30 to 50% less.
Weaving
• Higher efficiency on the looms - 40% less warp end-breaks,
30% less weft end-breaks
• Higher production – 10 to 15% higher
Example in Air-Jet weaving Ne 30, 500–600 m/min weft inser-
tion speed with conventional ring yarn, 700–800 m/min with
EliTe®Yarn
• Less pollution on the looms
• Less singeing
• 5% less dye absorption
Knitting
• Higher production on the knitting machines
• Less pollution of the frames, thus less cleaning and less stops
• Reduced waxing
• Single thread construction instead of double thread construction
• Less spirality of knitted product, due to very low T.M. possible.
• Much improved dimensional stability
• 5% less dye absorption
3. Raw Material Savings• Cheaper raw material can be used
• Carded EliTe®Yarn instead of conventional combed yarn
• Coarser wool
• Normal PES instead of non-pilling fibres
• Less comber noil extraction – up to 6% lower
• Singeing reduced or eliminated:
considerable savings, as singeing means burning away finished
yarn
4. Final Products• Higher strength of the fabric
• Less pilling
• Better lustre
• Clearer print
• Much clearer loop structure
• Clearer weaving structure with well-defined contours
• Better hand
• Development of totally new products possible
Advantages of EliTe®Compact Yarns
66
Production achieved by South Indian Spinning Mills using EliTe®Compact Spinning System
Count (Ne) GPSS - grams per spindle per shift of 8 hours
A. EliTe®Compact Hosiery Counts:
1 Mill A - 20s CH 450
2 Mill A - 24s CH 335
3 Mill A – 30s CH 265
4 Mill B - 30s RL 240
5 Mill A – 40s CH 185
6 Mill B - 40s VL 168
7 Mill A – 60s CH 80
8 Mill B – 60s CH 82
9 Mill A - 70s CH 66
10 Mill A - 80s CH 54
B. EliTe®Compact Weaving Counts:
1 Mill A - 8s CW 700
2 Mill A - 12s CW 620
3 Mill A – 40s CW (local) 149
4 Mill A – 40s CW (Export) 140
5 Mill A - 60s CW 72
6 Mill B - 80s CW 48
7 Mill A - 100s CW 33
8 Mill B - 100s CW 35
9 Mill A - 120s CW 24
10 Mill B - 120s CW 27
11 Mill A - 140s CW 16
12 Mill A - 170s CW 11
13 Mill A - 200s CW 6
14 Mill A - 220s CW 4
15 Mill A - 280s CW 2
Mills are taking EliTe®Compact Spinning System as a tool and are
adopting different strategies like:
1. Marketing very high quality premium yarn say Ne 50 combed
warp yarn with 26 RKM and 30 IPI
2. Saving in mixing and TPI say 60’s from S4 mixing to replace
MCU5 (selecting a mixing as per the customer requirement)
3. Saving in comber noil and TPI for local market say 2% saving
in comber noil and employing 3TM for local hosiery instead of
3.7TM.
4. Marketing compact yarn for product development - Identify
customer application and produce compact yarn to suit the
purpose results in saving for both.
5. Replacing double yarn with single compact yarn.
6. Composite units – higher weaving efficiency contributes to sav-
ing.
7. New T-shirts from compact yarn introduced by major brands.
8. High quality woven shirts from compact yarn are marketed by
major brands in India and elsewhere (Colour Plus, Park Avenue,
e.tech fabric, ESPRIT, Camel,Wills, Allen Solly, Levi’s etc.– see
product pictures pages 11 and 12)
Additional cost for producing EliTe®Yarn is approx. INR 3/kg (USD
0.07) for 30s count including power and cost of consumables, for
80s count it is around INR 8/kg (USD 0.18).
In EliTwist® the saving in processing costs for 2/80s is around INR
75/kg (USD 1.75).
The payback in EliTe®CompactSet is often 16-18 months and in
EliTwist® may be as low as 6 months (see also page 10 for further
information).
Payback Strategies for EliTe®Compact Yarns
77
Yarn Count (Ne)x 30s CH 30s CH 30s CH 40s CH 40s CH 40s CH 60s CW 60s CW 80s CW 100s CW 100s CW
A. Advantages of EliTe®Compact Spinning
Higher productivity by 10% 10% 15% 10% 10% 15% 10% 10% 10% 10% 10%
Extra premium in Rs. nil 7 nil nil 7 nil 10 15 20 25 35
Reduction in pneumafil waste by 0.70% 0.70% 0.70% 0.70% 0.70% 0.70% 0.70% 0.70% 0.70% 0.70% 0.70%
Improved raw material realization by 2% nil 1% 2% nil 1% 2% nil 2% 2% nil
B. Savings/machine/year in EliTe®
Additional profit/machine/year in Rs. due to higher production 218,937 218,937 328,406 230,235 153,490 361,095 142,340 142,340 87,604 65,160 65,160
Net savings/machine/year in Rs. due to higher production thereby reduction in manufacturing cost (Rs)
781,920 781,920 1,173,966 638,872 638,872 1,002,812 521,540 521,540 420,499 416,300 416,300
Additional profit/machine/year in Rs. due to premium 0 1,710,450 0 0 1,170,708 0 781,920 1,172,880 955,680 905,000 1,267,000
Net saving/machine/year in Rs. due to reduction in pneumafil waste
61,641 73,631 64,378 49,261 57,558 51,766 50,318 50,318 39,096 34,209 34,209
Net saving/machine/year in Rs. due to improved raw material realization (approx.)
1,099,575 0 586,440 752,598 0 395,847 430,056 0 262,812 217,200 0
Total benefits/machine/year in Rs. 2,162,073 2,784,938 2,153,190 1,670,966 2,020,628 1,811,520 1,926,174 1,887,078 1,765,691 1,637,869 1,782,669
C. Maintenance cost:
Maintenance cost/spindle/year in Rs. due to consumables 90 90 90 90 90 90 80 80 80 80 80
Power cost/spindle/year in Rs. 191 191 191 191 191 191 191 191 191 191 191
Tot. maintenance cost/machine/year in Rs. 283,248 283,248 283,248 283,248 283,248 283,248 273,168 273,168 273,168 273,168 273,168
Cost/kg in Rs. 1.15 1.15 1.10 1.70 1.70 1.60 3.47 3.47 5.70 5.90 5.90
D. Net savings due to EliTe®Compact Spinning machine/year (B.-C.) in Rs.
1,878,825 2,501,690 1,869,942 1,387,718 1,737,380 1,528,272 1,653,006 1,613,910 1,492,523 1,364,701 1,509,501
*** increased market share *** significant reduction in hairiness *** premium price for yarn with less hairiness *** *** cotton cost reduction *** new product developments *** branding of yarns ***
EliTe®CompactSet Pay-Back Calculation from an Indian Customer
8
Brands using EliTe®Compact System
99
SUESSEN’s market share of compact spinning spindles in India,
the most demanding market in the world, exceeds 70%. To date,
the EliTe®Compact Spinning System has benefitted over 5 million
compact ring spindles to the Indian market (as of June 2014).
Most of our valuable orders are repeat orders, showing that our
customers are happy with the SUESSEN EliTe®Compact Spinning
System.
SUESSEN is offering EliTe®CompactSet for many makes and mod-
els, included of course the ring spinning machines made by LMW
and KTTM, Zinser (all models), G 32, Chinese machines, Toyota
Japan machines. The list of available models is expanded on a
continuing basis.
Mills have the option of buying
• The full EliTe®CompactSet V5 including complete HP-GX 3010
Top Weighting Arm with ACP Quality Package and front bottom
roller
• Alternatively SUESSEN can supply EliTe®CompactSet suitable
for LMW/ Texparts/ SKF India top weighting arms, also with
ACP Quality Package.
SUESSEN is a company specializing in spinning technology – open-
end rotor spinning, ring spinning and air-jet spinning.
With EliTwist® our customers produce two-ply yarns directly on
their ring spinning machine with compact spinning technology,
setting new quality standards in the field of compact spinning. This
technology was well received in India with presently over 400,000
EliTwist®Spindles installed.
The yarn results are much superior to double yarn and our custom-
ers are getting 2.5 times production in ring frame apart from avoid-
ing of doubling, TFO and double production in winding.
With commercial applications ranging from Ne 6/1 to Ne 300/1, in
all kinds of fibres, the SUESSEN EliTe®Compact Spinning System is
the most versatile compacting system available.
SUESSEN has continuously developed and upgraded the system
and components over the years, which resulted in very significant
reduction in cost of maintenance.
The power consumption is less with EliTe® compared to competitive
systems, and the maintenance cost is also less, as customers with
experience on various systems invariably confirm.
The quality with SUESSEN EliTe®Yarn is generally superior to com-
peting systems, not only in the compact yarn but even more in the
finished final textile product.
The modular design of the SUESSEN EliTe®Compact Spinning
System allows our customers to easily follow any technological
improvements, a most important feature for any new technology.
As the Market Leader, SUESSEN is at the Forefront of Technology
1010
For optimal results with the SUESSEN EliTe®Compacting System,
it is highly important to use SUESSEN Original spare parts only!
SUESSEN has designed and manufactures the EliTe®Compacting
System, hence the best spares can come only from SUESSEN.
Examples:
5star®Q Lattice Aprons
The proper coating is highly important to minimize the dust accumu-
lation on the lattice apron, and to protect the surface of the EliTube.
In Fig. 1 (Competitive Lattice Apron) only the dark portions are
coated, clearly insufficient.
In Fig. 2 (Original SUESSEN Lattice Apron) it is apparent that the
coating is completely even. It should be clear that the SUESSEN
Lattice Apron will give much better results!
The proper design of the edges of the lattice aprons is also very
important to avoid fraying of the edges.
Comparing Fig. 3 to Fig. 4, it is quite obvious that the SUESSEN
lattice apron has much stronger edges compared to competitive
designs.
SUESSEN EliTe®Original Spare Parts
EliGear: Intermediate Gear
SUESSEN Original EliGear
Various variables determine the life of this important component:
• the basic material
• the correct shape of the teeth
• the correct material and size of the bush
Only SUESSEN, the manufacturer of the EliTe®Top Rollers, is in a
position to determine these variables correctly. In the worst case,
wrong intermediate gears may even damage the EliTe®Top Rollers.
Fig. 1 Competitive Lattice Apron Fig. 2 Original SUESSEN Lattice Apron
Fig 3: Competitive Design Fig 4: Original SUESSEN Lattice Apron
1111
The ACP Quality Package clearly improves the drafting process. The
sector between the front cradle opening and the front roller nipping
line now contributes additionally to the drafting process in the main
zone.
This substantially raises the quality level of almost all yarn param-
eters which are influenced by the drafting process. No disadvan-
tages to the running properties of the ring spinning frame have been
found. It has to be pointed out, however that the correct setting is of
utmost importance.
The ACP package clearly reduces both frequent yarn defects (IPI)
and rare yarn faults (Classimat), so improvements can be registered
in all fault classes. Therefore the number of clearer cuts is substan-
tially reduced, maintaining the clearer settings.
Yarn Quality Improved by ACP Quality Package
The optimized drafting process is further reflected by an improved
mass irregularity (Uster value) and results in an optimized utilization
of fibre substance (yarn strength). Improvements achievable in every
individual case depend on the raw material, staple length, roving
twist and total draft.
The table (next page) compares the spinning results from various
spinning mills, once without and once with ACP.
1212
Spinning Mill Ne Processing CV% IPI IPI (sensitive) Classimat (tot) Rkm
A 34EliTe®
EliTe®+ACP12.6511.00
9452
737307
1322909
18.9619.60
B 40EliTe®
EliTe®+ACP12.2511.18
7859
457264
--
22.3023.56
C 40EliTe®
EliTe®+ACP11. 6210.50
4030
296148
--
23.5324.31
B 50EliTe®
EliTe®+ACP13.1212.08
9163
681407
--
22.8924.26
D 50EliTe®
EliTe®+ACP12.7011.60
6842
18901104
8160
22.2322.93
C 60EliTe®
EliTe®+ACP13.9312.60
12470
1224666
--
20.5420.93
D 60EliTe®
EliTe®+ACP13.3612.51
179122
24631797
434278
18.7520.12
D 80EliTe®
EliTe®+ACP13.9012.48
15591
1063540
--
21.8922.86
E 80EliTe®
EliTe®+ACP14.5213.68
226152
1227735
1377735
28.0028.46
E 100EliTe®
EliTe®+ACP14.6613.83
12684
1162835
--
26.5127.49
D 114EliTe®
EliTe®+ACP16.4315.41
448277
23011573
--
25.6426.70
EliTwist®
F 40/2 EliTwist® EliTwist®+ACP
9.338.61
164
4520
1234822
22.7424.96
G 80/2 EliTwist® EliTwist®+ACP
12.5012.17
4536
443384
632411
25.4827.04
G 100/2 EliTwist® EliTwist®+ACP
15.3513.71
286182
18091094
--
26.6828.81
H 100/2 EliTwist® EliTwist®+ACP
14.6213.45
315192
1715893
--
25.8826.99
A 160/2 EliTwist® EliTwist®+ACP
13.2012.61
9967
647457
--
24.2124.97
1313
lattice apron
compacted
clamping line
New revolutionary production of two-ply yarns directly
on the ring spinning machine with compact spinning technol-
ogy, setting new quality standards in the field of compact
spinning
This is another SUESSEN Development break-through: two
EliTe®Yarns are spun and plied directly on the ring spinning frame.
EliTwist®Yarns have the following distinctive features:
• very low hairiness
• high elongation and break strength
• very low IPI compared to equivalent single yarn
• round cross section
See comparative results on pages 18/19.
Indian Spinning Mills have been again at the forefront, and the
highest population of this advanced technology is to be found here,
presently over 350,000 EliTwist®Spindles.
SUESSEN EliTwist®CompactSet V5
At present some of the applications include
• high quality shirting
• high quality knitted polo shirts
• high quality bed linens
• high twist voile fabrics
• bottom weights
• Sari blouses
Please see the technical reviews which some of SUESSEN’s major
EliTwist®Customers have written, and which are enclosed on pages
18 to 39.
As EliTwist® may in certain applications replace conventional TFO
yarn, potential savings are large, and payback periods of 6 months
and less have been reported by our customers.
1426 No. 30
Peter Stahlecker, Managing Director
Mill rePort
Mill Name Suessen Compact Spindles (nos) Total Spindelage (nos)
Shiva Tex Yarn unit 1 31,344 39,072
Bannari Amman Spinning Mills unit 1 23,184 30,240
Bannari Amman Spinning Mills unit 2 74,400 114,000
Shiva Tex Yarn unit 2 28,800 50,400
Total 157,728 233,712
table 1
Bannari Amman GroupSuccess with a Human Face
the Bannari Amman Group, headquartered in Coimbatore, tN, is one of the largest indus-trial conglomerates in South india with a wide spectrum of manufacturing, trading, distribu-tion and financial activities. Manufacturing and trading activities include cotton yarn, fabrics and garments. other divisions include distribu-tion of automobiles and related accessories of renowned brands with financing activities. the service sector has wind power energy, educa-tion, health care, real estate etc. the Group’s net-worth exceeds iNr 450 crores (approx. USD 75,000,000.-), with sales turnover in textile operations crossing around 200 Million US Dollars.
obviously, i am biased towards spinning – and limited in my knowledge of their other activi-ties, so i will report about the “spinning angle” only.
their spinning division consists of
• Shiva tex yarn unit 1• Shiva tex yarn unit 2• Bannari Amman spinning mills unit 1• Bannari Amman spinning mills unit 2
their total spindelage and the portion of Suessen elite® may be seen in table 1.
Contact:Bannari Amman Spinning Mills ltd.252 , Mettupalayam road, Coimbatore 641 043, india. Phone :+91 (422) 2435555 Fax : +91 (422) 2434446email: [email protected]: www.bannarimills.com
Shiva texyarn ltd.252, Mettupalayam roadCoimbatore - 641043.Phone : +91 (422)2435555Fax : +91 (422)2434446email : [email protected]: www.shivatex.co.in
27No. 30
Mr. S.V. Arumugam, Chairman and MD of Bannari Amman Spinning Mills
Mr. S.V. Alagappan, Chairman and MD of Shiva tex Yarns ltd.
this capacity allows them to produce about 120 tons per day of combed yarns, compact yarns, for knitting and for weaving, in the range of 16’s to 100’s. Among the cotton varieties used are Supima, BCi, Giza, organic cotton and West African.
Mr. S.V. Alagappan, whom i regrettably know less well personally, is Chairman and MD of Shiva tex Yarns ltd. He takes care of policy matters, projects and implementation of projects. His degree in law is an asset to the group.
if my recollection is correct, i met Mr. S.V. Aru-mugam, Chairman and MD of Bannari Amman Spinning Mills in June of 2006.
Naturally, our agent Mr. Mathew (VtS Venus textile Systems, Coimbatore) had told me, but still it was an experience one does not for-get:
He greeted us very friendly. then the “nee-dling” started. i do not recall anymore, what it was about – but i must have given a satisfac-tory answer because he smiled – and the next needle prick came. it was almost like fencing, but not with heavy sword, but with light rapier.
i have met him many times thereafter, and every time i have enjoyed the meeting.
Mr. Arumugam holds a Bachelor of Science (B.Sc.,) degree and he is a Chartered Ac-count-ant, but in my view, his greatest asset are not his degrees, but his capacity to quickly and correctly judge a situation, and draw the right conclusions – and his sense of humor!
Success obviously does not just happen! Mr. Arumugam has a very deep knowledge of techno commercial – and he surely expects his supplier to technically know his product.
With success comes social responsibility, and Mr. Arumugam does not shy away:
• He has been the Chairman of Citi, the Confederation of indian textile industry, the apex body of all textile activities in india.
• He served as Vice Chairman of the indian Wind Power Association (iWPA)
• He was the Chairman of SiMA• He was the Chairman of Cii, the Confeder-
ation of indian industries, Coimbatore zone
i recall that we requested his help as Chair-man of Citi in some ePCG issue. He listened intensely, asked his usual precise questions – and helped to solve the matter on hand.
No Field Marshall can win a battle without able generals, highly motivated officers and well trained, loyal troops.
Mr. Arumugan and Mr. Alagappan at the helm are assisted by executive Directors Dr. Sunda-raman and Mr. Senthil. the execution and implementations of the directions given is the responsibility of a competent team of GMs who in turn rely on technical executives to manage the day-to-day operations.
obviously, this group is a large customer of Suessen’s elite®Compact System; i have had discussions on all management levels. the
1527No. 30
Mr. S.V. Arumugam, Chairman and MD of Bannari Amman Spinning Mills
Mr. S.V. Alagappan, Chairman and MD of Shiva tex Yarns ltd.
this capacity allows them to produce about 120 tons per day of combed yarns, compact yarns, for knitting and for weaving, in the range of 16’s to 100’s. Among the cotton varieties used are Supima, BCi, Giza, organic cotton and West African.
Mr. S.V. Alagappan, whom i regrettably know less well personally, is Chairman and MD of Shiva tex Yarns ltd. He takes care of policy matters, projects and implementation of projects. His degree in law is an asset to the group.
if my recollection is correct, i met Mr. S.V. Aru-mugam, Chairman and MD of Bannari Amman Spinning Mills in June of 2006.
Naturally, our agent Mr. Mathew (VtS Venus textile Systems, Coimbatore) had told me, but still it was an experience one does not for-get:
He greeted us very friendly. then the “nee-dling” started. i do not recall anymore, what it was about – but i must have given a satisfac-tory answer because he smiled – and the next needle prick came. it was almost like fencing, but not with heavy sword, but with light rapier.
i have met him many times thereafter, and every time i have enjoyed the meeting.
Mr. Arumugam holds a Bachelor of Science (B.Sc.,) degree and he is a Chartered Ac-count-ant, but in my view, his greatest asset are not his degrees, but his capacity to quickly and correctly judge a situation, and draw the right conclusions – and his sense of humor!
Success obviously does not just happen! Mr. Arumugam has a very deep knowledge of techno commercial – and he surely expects his supplier to technically know his product.
With success comes social responsibility, and Mr. Arumugam does not shy away:
• He has been the Chairman of Citi, the Confederation of indian textile industry, the apex body of all textile activities in india.
• He served as Vice Chairman of the indian Wind Power Association (iWPA)
• He was the Chairman of SiMA• He was the Chairman of Cii, the Confeder-
ation of indian industries, Coimbatore zone
i recall that we requested his help as Chair-man of Citi in some ePCG issue. He listened intensely, asked his usual precise questions – and helped to solve the matter on hand.
No Field Marshall can win a battle without able generals, highly motivated officers and well trained, loyal troops.
Mr. Arumugan and Mr. Alagappan at the helm are assisted by executive Directors Dr. Sunda-raman and Mr. Senthil. the execution and implementations of the directions given is the responsibility of a competent team of GMs who in turn rely on technical executives to manage the day-to-day operations.
obviously, this group is a large customer of Suessen’s elite®Compact System; i have had discussions on all management levels. the
1628 No. 30
Suessen EliTe® was consistently favored mainly due to the following advantages:
1. Up to 30% reduction in end breaks2. Up to 50% reduction in pneumafil waste3. Productivity improvement between 10%
and 15%4. Better yarn realization5. Spinning potential of cotton is improved6. less fly liberation helps better working
environment and lower classimat faults7. Challenging quality required by customers
is easily possible8. Possibility of new product developments
the last point above is the challenge they pose for Suessen: “Stillstand ist rueckschritt” as the German saying goes: if you do not move ahead, you fall behind! they expect – and have the right to expect – that Suessen elite®Compact Spinning System will be further developed.
i sometimes like to say: Suessen builds the piano – but the customers only know how to play the symphony!
table 2 shows the improvements the mills have been able to achieve, using Suessen’s piano (elite®Compact Spinning System).
the groups have their own knitting and weaving divisions, also their own garment-ing and processing facilities, so they can judge the merits and demerits of Suessen elite®Compact yarn.
Count 30s 40s 60s 80s
Quality Combed Combed Combed Combed
End Use Knitting Knitting Weaving Weaving
Spinning System Normal Compact Normal Compact Normal Compact Normal Compact
Yarn U% 8.5 7.8 10.0 9.2 11.5 10.8 12.1 11.7
Total IPI 51 40 80 65 180 120 400 200
RKM (Tensojet) 18.5 19.6 18.5 20.8 22.0 24.0 21.5 24.5
Hairiness 6.4 5.2 5.8 4.4 3.8 3.0 3.4 2.6
table 2
basic philosophy was always similar, only the subject matters were different.
Straight questions demanding straight an-swers. their criticism on our products was fair, goal-oriented and helpful. A good sense of humor prevailed – but would not cover up any issues!
1728 No. 30
Suessen EliTe® was consistently favored mainly due to the following advantages:
1. Up to 30% reduction in end breaks2. Up to 50% reduction in pneumafil waste3. Productivity improvement between 10%
and 15%4. Better yarn realization5. Spinning potential of cotton is improved6. less fly liberation helps better working
environment and lower classimat faults7. Challenging quality required by customers
is easily possible8. Possibility of new product developments
the last point above is the challenge they pose for Suessen: “Stillstand ist rueckschritt” as the German saying goes: if you do not move ahead, you fall behind! they expect – and have the right to expect – that Suessen elite®Compact Spinning System will be further developed.
i sometimes like to say: Suessen builds the piano – but the customers only know how to play the symphony!
table 2 shows the improvements the mills have been able to achieve, using Suessen’s piano (elite®Compact Spinning System).
the groups have their own knitting and weaving divisions, also their own garment-ing and processing facilities, so they can judge the merits and demerits of Suessen elite®Compact yarn.
Count 30s 40s 60s 80s
Quality Combed Combed Combed Combed
End Use Knitting Knitting Weaving Weaving
Spinning System Normal Compact Normal Compact Normal Compact Normal Compact
Yarn U% 8.5 7.8 10.0 9.2 11.5 10.8 12.1 11.7
Total IPI 51 40 80 65 180 120 400 200
RKM (Tensojet) 18.5 19.6 18.5 20.8 22.0 24.0 21.5 24.5
Hairiness 6.4 5.2 5.8 4.4 3.8 3.0 3.4 2.6
table 2
basic philosophy was always similar, only the subject matters were different.
Straight questions demanding straight an-swers. their criticism on our products was fair, goal-oriented and helpful. A good sense of humor prevailed – but would not cover up any issues!
29No. 30
Advantages of Suessen EliTe®Compact System in Knitting
1. less pilling tendency2. less spirality complaints3. less fly and dust liberation during knitting4. less knitting breaks and defect free fabric5. Fabric withstands more number of washes
than the fabric made out of conventional yarn.
6. Dimensional stability of the fabric is much improved.
7. less shrinkage of the fabric during pro-cessing
8. Better fabric appearance due to improved evenness and low yarn hairiness
9. Unwaxed compact yarn can be used directly in knitting.
10. the fabric made out of Compact yarn has less chances of dye vessel blockage.
11. Better realization of raw material upto 2 % due to reduction in waste during washing and processing.
12. More production in knitting13. Needle damages is avoided.
Advantages of Suessen EliTe®Compact System in weaving
1. Compact yarn is a must for Auto looms.2. Higher yarn strength, better elongation and
less hairiness help to operate the looms at high speeds. loom efficiency improves upto 10 %.
3. the bursting and tearing strength of the fabric is higher and these fabrics can be subjected to much harsher treatment in further processing depending on the ap-plication
4. the fabric appearance has improved, bet-ter luster and very good sheen of the fabric is obtained.
5. less pilling tendency and better luster of the fabric
6. the dye pick-up and printing clarity will be good.
9. improved yarn properties alongwith a clean surface of the yarn give less loom stoppages and the fabric defects come down by 30 to 40 % in yarn-dyed appli-cations with good improvement in loom efficiency.
10. lower twist levels possible to spin which will give better feeling of the fabric.
11. Fabric singeing can be eliminated.
i feel privileged to know this group, its inspiring leaders, and able executives on all levels!
Success does not mean, we may rest on our laurels, but it is a challenge to try even harder!
1830 No. 30
M.K. Patodia, CMD GtN industries limited
Mill rePort
GtN industries limited, an organization with over six decades of ceaseless efforts to select the best natural cotton fibre from the world markets and convert into value added prod-ucts such as fine count grey yarns, compact yarns, gassed yarns, organic yarns, mercer-ized and dyed yarns, knitted fabrics and lifestyle garments at the consumer end of the markets.
Vertically integrated manufacturing set up to produce fine and super fine cotton yarns, grey knitted fabrics, gassed fabrics, organic fabrics, mercerized fabrics and lifestyle garments of-fers a unique one stop shop to those looking for an operationally strong and reliable source.
World Class Competence – Be it fibres to fashion, the range of competencies in GtN industries group is simply long, linear and vast. Portfolio migration determined by core competence and dedication makes us an extra ordinary focused company and a reliable business partner to those, ‘When time is of essence and Quality is a Passion’.
Spinning
From multi location facilities in india, with an aggregate of about 1.2 lakh spindles, GtN industries limited group has achieved perfor-mance which is considered as benchmarks in the market place.
State of the art infrastructure – With a con-stant endeavour to maintain its prime position, GtN industries limited has invested in latest technology for modernization and up grada-tion. GtN industries limited has impressive spinning capacity across all its manufacturing facilities incorporating latest process knowhow from leading manufacturers including Sues-sen, Murata, Schlafhorst, rieter, truetzschler, lMW, Volkmann and SSM.
With over 1 lakh spindles running with elite® compact and elitwist® compact, GtN indus-tries limited produces and delivers cotton yarns ranging Ne 13 to Ne 120. All these yarns are made like five star kitchen from indian, egyptian, Supima, US and Australian cotton.
GtN industries limited accepts challenges in making yarns for their customers’ competence which include jointless two ply yarns, single compact yarn with very low imperfections, curved shaped dye packages and tailor made yarns as per demands from its customers. Some of its future targets include yarn with zero imperfections and zero Classimat faults and value for money yarns.
GTN Industries Ltd., Hyderabad An Epitome of Reliable Excellence
Contact:Plot No. 29, Nagarjuna Mills, Punjagutta, Hyderabad - 500 082, telangana, india
Phone +914043407777Fax +914023357820email: [email protected]
1930 No. 30
M.K. Patodia, CMD GtN industries limited
Mill rePort
GtN industries limited, an organization with over six decades of ceaseless efforts to select the best natural cotton fibre from the world markets and convert into value added prod-ucts such as fine count grey yarns, compact yarns, gassed yarns, organic yarns, mercer-ized and dyed yarns, knitted fabrics and lifestyle garments at the consumer end of the markets.
Vertically integrated manufacturing set up to produce fine and super fine cotton yarns, grey knitted fabrics, gassed fabrics, organic fabrics, mercerized fabrics and lifestyle garments of-fers a unique one stop shop to those looking for an operationally strong and reliable source.
World Class Competence – Be it fibres to fashion, the range of competencies in GtN industries group is simply long, linear and vast. Portfolio migration determined by core competence and dedication makes us an extra ordinary focused company and a reliable business partner to those, ‘When time is of essence and Quality is a Passion’.
Spinning
From multi location facilities in india, with an aggregate of about 1.2 lakh spindles, GtN industries limited group has achieved perfor-mance which is considered as benchmarks in the market place.
State of the art infrastructure – With a con-stant endeavour to maintain its prime position, GtN industries limited has invested in latest technology for modernization and up grada-tion. GtN industries limited has impressive spinning capacity across all its manufacturing facilities incorporating latest process knowhow from leading manufacturers including Sues-sen, Murata, Schlafhorst, rieter, truetzschler, lMW, Volkmann and SSM.
With over 1 lakh spindles running with elite® compact and elitwist® compact, GtN indus-tries limited produces and delivers cotton yarns ranging Ne 13 to Ne 120. All these yarns are made like five star kitchen from indian, egyptian, Supima, US and Australian cotton.
GtN industries limited accepts challenges in making yarns for their customers’ competence which include jointless two ply yarns, single compact yarn with very low imperfections, curved shaped dye packages and tailor made yarns as per demands from its customers. Some of its future targets include yarn with zero imperfections and zero Classimat faults and value for money yarns.
GTN Industries Ltd., Hyderabad An Epitome of Reliable Excellence
Contact:Plot No. 29, Nagarjuna Mills, Punjagutta, Hyderabad - 500 082, telangana, india
Phone +914043407777Fax +914023357820email: [email protected]
31No. 30
Knitting
the yarn quality achieved over years of con-sistent and market oriented business policies have prompted to invest in high end fabric manufacture in knitting. the company has 24, 26 and 28 gauge terrot knitting machines capable of knitting Jersey Pique, interlock, rib, Mini Jacquards and Auto stripe patterns. the fabric knitting systems are supported adequately by collar knitting machines from Shima Seiki. GtN industries also knits high quality lycra fabrics providing knitting division versatility, success and wider customer base.
GtN industries limited always uses its knitting and processing divisions to evaluate perfor-mance of its yarn being produced in spinning. its day to day quality checks for the yarns include knitting performance study, observing quality of bleached and dyed fabrics, reducing standard of allowable defects.
Processing
Yarn Processing – With an installed capac-ity of 6 tons per day, the company produces international Quality – gassed, mercerized, bleached and dyed yarns. GtN ‘s state of the art yarn processing is ably backed by in house grey yarn providing end to end quality
yarn solutions to discerning clients world wide for high end users like outer wear polo shirts, socks, home furnishings, embroideries etc.,
Fabric processing – the facilities include fabric mercerization, soft flow dyeing, open and tubular width compaction, stenter and garment dyeing and washing with a capacity of 10 tons / day. it has complete expertise to impart various finishes to fabrics like moisture wicking, anti microbial, UV and teflon. With stringent quality assurance at various stages, the company produces defect free fabrics meeting international standards.
Garments
A state of the art Juki assembly line garment confection arrangement backed by contempo-rary facilities in cutting, placket welting, CAD systems and embroidery machines provide facility which is capable of producing over 3 million garments every year in the highest end of life style garments.
Working with world leaders in fashion along with vertically integrated value addition chain in house, GtN industries group has launched its own brand of lifestyle knitted garments: “Cotstyle”. the brand also offers customized garments for the corporate houses in india.
Ne 40/1 CW Ne 50/1 CW Ne 100/2 CW Ne 30/2 CW
EliTe®Single Yarn EliTe®Single Yarn EliTwist® EliTwist®
Ave Count 40.5 49.9 50.0 15.3
CV% for count 1.2 1.3 1.3 0.9
TPI 26.3 28.3 27.6 21.5/16.6
UT5 – U% 8.7 9.0 9.0 6.5
Thin/km 0 0 0 0
Thick/km 9 6 11 0
Neps/km 20 14 47 0
Total/km 29 20 58 0
Hairiness index 3.7 2.9 2.5 4.7
Sh 1.0 0.8 0.7 1.4
UTR3 RKM 20.5 22.4 23.5 22.9
RKM CV% 8.5 8.8 7.7 4.8
Elongation % 4.8 5.0 5.1 6.2
Elongation CV% 8.5 8.7 7.9 4.9
CMT3, Total 47.3 20.1 77.0 0
Obj. faults 0 0 0.5 0
2026 No. 28
Peter Stahlecker, Suessen Managing Director
MILL REPORT
Sri Shanmugavel Mills: A Success Story!
During the last 20 years that I have had the privilege to travel in India, I have seen a few success stories!
However, one seems to stand apart: The Story of Shanmugavel Mills and of its Chair-man, Mr. P.S. Velusamy, B.A. B.L.
The Sri Shanmugavel Group of Mills was founded by its present Chairman in 1981. From humble beginnings, an empire was forged, whose numbers are impressive:
• 15 manufacturing units• 500,000 spindles• 12,500 rotors• 230 air jet looms• 246 knitting machines• 300 wind mills, producing all the power
which is needed for the operation• Over 10,000 dedicated workers, who take
pride in being associated with this group• Over 450,000 kg of yarn is produced every
day, and exported to over 60 countries under the trade name SUDHAN
I met Mr. Velusamy the fi rst time in August 2005. He had just ordered the fi rst 12 ma-chines of Suessen EliTe®CompactSet, and there were some technical questions to be
discussed. Of course I had heard about the Chairman. Mr. Mathew, Suessen’s energetic representative for South India had told me and briefed me about him – but meeting Mr. Velusamy for the fi rst time…. I met an elegant, soft spoken person, the English term gentleman is the perfectly fi tting descrip-tion. However, two things very soon became obvious: The Chairman had in depth technical knowledge – and there was a will of steel and a clear vision radiating from him.
The issue on hand was solved, and over time, Sri Shanmugavel became the largest cus-tomer of Suessen EliTe®CompactSet in the world! One by one, we could convert 100% of his spindles to the EliTe®Compact Spin-ning System in the below mills, and today, the impressive picture looks as follows:
• Adisankara Spinning Mills 48,288• Prabhu Spinning Mills 47,712• Sri Shanmugavel Mills 48,336
(This is where we started)• Sudhan Spinning Mills 57,456• Sri Matha Spinning Mills 46,704• Sri Velayudaswamy Unit 1 40,464• Sri Velayudaswamy Unit 2 79,440• Vedha Spinning Mills 32,592• Total EliTe®Spindles 400,992
Sri Shanmugavel Group Of MillsThadicombu - 624709Dindigul District.Tamilnadu, India Phone: 91-451-2557001/02,Fax: 91-451-2557225/259E-mail: [email protected], [email protected]: http://ssmyarn.com
Shri P.S. Velusamy, B.A. B.L., Founder and ChairmanSri Shanmugavel Group of Mills
Spinnovation No. 28 V3.indd 26 12.11.2013 08:09:03
27No. 28
Executive Directors Mr. K. Shivaraj and Mr. K. Shanmugavel MD Shri C Kandaswamy
We were told a few of the advantages the mills and their customers could get by using SUESSEN EliTe®CompactSet:
• Production increase of 10% over normal ring yarn
• EliTe®Yarn is superior in CSP, hairiness and IPI
• No spirality complaints from the knitting customers
• No blockage in the dye vessels• Reduction of end breakage by 2/100
spindle hours.• Higher yarn realisation• Lower end breakage and much less fl y
and fl y in the department results in better work environment and hence higher work-ers’ satisfaction.
Naturally, there is state of the art quality assur-ance in every step of the production, without this such a success would simply not be possible.
Over the years, Sri Shanmugavel Group of Mills were awarded many prices and trophies. They are humbly displayed in the Chairman’s o� ce, which by the way is on the premises of Sri Shanmugavel Mills, not in some far-away city!
Recently, the group ventured into steel fabri-cation, when they established Renergy Equip-ment India, and they also started garmenting under the brand labels of Chennis and Players Club. Needless to say, both ventures are suc-cessful under the able leadership of the new generation.
These spindles produce over 250,000 kg of premium quality elite compact yarn every day, which is exported, under the brand name SUDHAN to over 60 countries on all fi ve con-tinents. Mills recently favored Suessen with an order of 40,000 EliTe®Spindles for their new ring frames added now, which emphasizes the conviction on the EliTe®Compact Spinning System.
Soon it became clear that one of Mr. Ve-lusamy’s principles was: “You cannot be the leader by following the pack!” For example, the production fi gures he wanted to achieve were deemed impossible by conventional standards – yet he pushed us and he pushed his techni-cal team to achieve them. And we did!
No man is an island. Mr. Velusamy was un-conditionally supported from the very begin-ning by his brother, MD Mr. Kandaswamy, who ensured that the right cotton was bought at the right time, at the right price and at the right quantity – no easy task!
Later, his two nephews, Executive Direc-tor K. Shanmugavel and Executive Director K. Shivaraj have joined and together with the Chairman and the MD they are in charge of total operations.
No operation of this size could be run without an outstanding team of technical people and capable GMs. I met all of them many times – and I was impressed how always excellent people were picked for the job. They pushed themselves and us too, to the limit and be-yond
Spinnovation No. 28 V3.indd 27 12.11.2013 08:09:04
2126 No. 28
Peter Stahlecker, Suessen Managing Director
MILL REPORT
Sri Shanmugavel Mills: A Success Story!
During the last 20 years that I have had the privilege to travel in India, I have seen a few success stories!
However, one seems to stand apart: The Story of Shanmugavel Mills and of its Chair-man, Mr. P.S. Velusamy, B.A. B.L.
The Sri Shanmugavel Group of Mills was founded by its present Chairman in 1981. From humble beginnings, an empire was forged, whose numbers are impressive:
• 15 manufacturing units• 500,000 spindles• 12,500 rotors• 230 air jet looms• 246 knitting machines• 300 wind mills, producing all the power
which is needed for the operation• Over 10,000 dedicated workers, who take
pride in being associated with this group• Over 450,000 kg of yarn is produced every
day, and exported to over 60 countries under the trade name SUDHAN
I met Mr. Velusamy the fi rst time in August 2005. He had just ordered the fi rst 12 ma-chines of Suessen EliTe®CompactSet, and there were some technical questions to be
discussed. Of course I had heard about the Chairman. Mr. Mathew, Suessen’s energetic representative for South India had told me and briefed me about him – but meeting Mr. Velusamy for the fi rst time…. I met an elegant, soft spoken person, the English term gentleman is the perfectly fi tting descrip-tion. However, two things very soon became obvious: The Chairman had in depth technical knowledge – and there was a will of steel and a clear vision radiating from him.
The issue on hand was solved, and over time, Sri Shanmugavel became the largest cus-tomer of Suessen EliTe®CompactSet in the world! One by one, we could convert 100% of his spindles to the EliTe®Compact Spin-ning System in the below mills, and today, the impressive picture looks as follows:
• Adisankara Spinning Mills 48,288• Prabhu Spinning Mills 47,712• Sri Shanmugavel Mills 48,336
(This is where we started)• Sudhan Spinning Mills 57,456• Sri Matha Spinning Mills 46,704• Sri Velayudaswamy Unit 1 40,464• Sri Velayudaswamy Unit 2 79,440• Vedha Spinning Mills 32,592• Total EliTe®Spindles 400,992
Sri Shanmugavel Group Of MillsThadicombu - 624709Dindigul District.Tamilnadu, India Phone: 91-451-2557001/02,Fax: 91-451-2557225/259E-mail: [email protected], [email protected]: http://ssmyarn.com
Shri P.S. Velusamy, B.A. B.L., Founder and ChairmanSri Shanmugavel Group of Mills
Spinnovation No. 28 V3.indd 26 12.11.2013 08:09:03
27No. 28
Executive Directors Mr. K. Shivaraj and Mr. K. Shanmugavel MD Shri C Kandaswamy
We were told a few of the advantages the mills and their customers could get by using SUESSEN EliTe®CompactSet:
• Production increase of 10% over normal ring yarn
• EliTe®Yarn is superior in CSP, hairiness and IPI
• No spirality complaints from the knitting customers
• No blockage in the dye vessels• Reduction of end breakage by 2/100
spindle hours.• Higher yarn realisation• Lower end breakage and much less fl y
and fl y in the department results in better work environment and hence higher work-ers’ satisfaction.
Naturally, there is state of the art quality assur-ance in every step of the production, without this such a success would simply not be possible.
Over the years, Sri Shanmugavel Group of Mills were awarded many prices and trophies. They are humbly displayed in the Chairman’s o� ce, which by the way is on the premises of Sri Shanmugavel Mills, not in some far-away city!
Recently, the group ventured into steel fabri-cation, when they established Renergy Equip-ment India, and they also started garmenting under the brand labels of Chennis and Players Club. Needless to say, both ventures are suc-cessful under the able leadership of the new generation.
These spindles produce over 250,000 kg of premium quality elite compact yarn every day, which is exported, under the brand name SUDHAN to over 60 countries on all fi ve con-tinents. Mills recently favored Suessen with an order of 40,000 EliTe®Spindles for their new ring frames added now, which emphasizes the conviction on the EliTe®Compact Spinning System.
Soon it became clear that one of Mr. Ve-lusamy’s principles was: “You cannot be the leader by following the pack!” For example, the production fi gures he wanted to achieve were deemed impossible by conventional standards – yet he pushed us and he pushed his techni-cal team to achieve them. And we did!
No man is an island. Mr. Velusamy was un-conditionally supported from the very begin-ning by his brother, MD Mr. Kandaswamy, who ensured that the right cotton was bought at the right time, at the right price and at the right quantity – no easy task!
Later, his two nephews, Executive Direc-tor K. Shanmugavel and Executive Director K. Shivaraj have joined and together with the Chairman and the MD they are in charge of total operations.
No operation of this size could be run without an outstanding team of technical people and capable GMs. I met all of them many times – and I was impressed how always excellent people were picked for the job. They pushed themselves and us too, to the limit and be-yond
Spinnovation No. 28 V3.indd 27 12.11.2013 08:09:04
2228 No. 28
SSM Matriculation School
SSM Institute of Engineering and Technology
Lakshmi LR6 with Suessen EliTe®CompactSet and HP Top Weighting Arm
The story of Sri Shanmugavel Group of Mills and of its founder and Chairman would be incomplete without mentioning the philan-thropic nature and the social conscience of Mr. Velusamy, B.A. B.L. Besides taking excellent care of his workforce of over 10,000 people, he believes, that the real wealth of any nation is the wisdom of its younger generation. So, he started the SSM Matriculation School, where young people are taught skills not found in any class room, and also the SSM Institute of Engineering and Technology.
Growing spectrum of success:
1) Sri Shanmugavel Mills (P) Ltd 2) Sivaraj Spinning Mills (P) Ltd3) Sudhan Spinning Mills (P) Ltd4) Sri Velayudhaswamy Spinning Mills (P) Ltd 5) Sri Velayudhaswamy Spinning Mills (P) Ltd
Unit II 6) Prabhu Spinning Mills (P) Ltd7) Adisankara Spinning Mills (P) Ltd8) Sri Matha Spinning Mills(P) Ltd
(Gots Certifi ed)9) Vedha Spinning Mills (P) Ltd10) Sri Shanmugavel Mills (P) Ltd
(Weaving Division) (Gots Certifi ed) 11) Prabhu Spinning Mills (P) Ltd12) Adisankara Spinning Mills (P) Ltd
(Weaving Division) (Gots Certifi ed)13) Sri Sankari Yarns (P) Ltd14) Shri Siddhi Vinayaga Tex India (P) Ltd15) Prasanna Spinning Mills (P) Ltd
Everybody at Suessen, particularly the writer of these lines, is proud to be the exclusive supplier of compact spinning equipment to Sri Shanmugavel Group of Mills! This great honor only makes us work harder to meet and exceed their demands.
We wish the group and its leaders all the suc-cess!
Spinnovation No. 28 V3.indd 28 12.11.2013 08:09:06
2328 No. 28
SSM Matriculation School
SSM Institute of Engineering and Technology
Lakshmi LR6 with Suessen EliTe®CompactSet and HP Top Weighting Arm
The story of Sri Shanmugavel Group of Mills and of its founder and Chairman would be incomplete without mentioning the philan-thropic nature and the social conscience of Mr. Velusamy, B.A. B.L. Besides taking excellent care of his workforce of over 10,000 people, he believes, that the real wealth of any nation is the wisdom of its younger generation. So, he started the SSM Matriculation School, where young people are taught skills not found in any class room, and also the SSM Institute of Engineering and Technology.
Growing spectrum of success:
1) Sri Shanmugavel Mills (P) Ltd 2) Sivaraj Spinning Mills (P) Ltd3) Sudhan Spinning Mills (P) Ltd4) Sri Velayudhaswamy Spinning Mills (P) Ltd 5) Sri Velayudhaswamy Spinning Mills (P) Ltd
Unit II 6) Prabhu Spinning Mills (P) Ltd7) Adisankara Spinning Mills (P) Ltd8) Sri Matha Spinning Mills(P) Ltd
(Gots Certifi ed)9) Vedha Spinning Mills (P) Ltd10) Sri Shanmugavel Mills (P) Ltd
(Weaving Division) (Gots Certifi ed) 11) Prabhu Spinning Mills (P) Ltd12) Adisankara Spinning Mills (P) Ltd
(Weaving Division) (Gots Certifi ed)13) Sri Sankari Yarns (P) Ltd14) Shri Siddhi Vinayaga Tex India (P) Ltd15) Prasanna Spinning Mills (P) Ltd
Everybody at Suessen, particularly the writer of these lines, is proud to be the exclusive supplier of compact spinning equipment to Sri Shanmugavel Group of Mills! This great honor only makes us work harder to meet and exceed their demands.
We wish the group and its leaders all the suc-cess!
Spinnovation No. 28 V3.indd 28 12.11.2013 08:09:06
29No. 27
MILL REPORT
K.C.Oberoi, Venus Textile Systems, India
Mr. Dinesh Nolkha, Managing Director
Nitin Spinners Ltd.“World Class Spinning Solutions” – Manufacturers of 100% Cotton Yarns and 100% Cotton Fabrics in Bhilwara, Rajasthan. ISO 9001-2008 Certifi ed Company
Established in 1993, Nitin Spinners Ltd has earned a prominent place in cotton yarn industry in India. The company is engaged in producing high quality cotton yarn and knitted fabrics. Starting with a modest production of 700 MT per annum, the company today produces 22,000 MT of yarn and 4,000 MT of grey fabrics.
Contact data:Phone + 91-1482-286110-113Fax + 91-1482-286114e-mail: [email protected]: www.nitinspinners.com
Table 1
DepartmentInstalled Capacity
Production Capacity (TP A)
Products
Ring Spinning 77616 Spindles 13500100% Combed Cotton Yarn (Single &
Multifold, Compact and Slub) up to 50 Ne
Open End Spinning 2936 Rotors 8500 100% Cotton Yarn up to 30 Ne
Knitting 31 Circular
Knitting Machines4000
Knitted fabrics - single jersey, rib, interlock, fl eece etc.
The stringent commitment to global standards of quality has seen the company growing over the last decade. The company has kept up pace with changing global customer demands for textiles and has focused its attention on select core products. Such a focus has ena-bled the company to play a dominant role in the global textile arena.
For the production capacities of the company please refer to table 1.
The company has installed latest and best available technology with plant & machinery imported from Switzerland, Germany and Italy, but also ring spinning machine equipment from LMW and KTTM.
The company also has Coal Based Captive Power Plant of 10.50 MW with 100% Backup Furnace Oil Based Power Plants and dedi-cated 132 kV line from state grid. Nitin Spin-ners has invested 70.7 million $ in gross fi xed assets as on 31st March 2012.
In the quest to improve quality and competi-tiveness, the company has installed Suessen EliTe®Compact Spinning System on 12,000 spindles in fi rst half of 2012.
Nitin selected Suessen EliTe®Compact Spin-ning System which has worldwide accept-
2430 No. 27
ance. Conversion of KTTM machines with tube length of 210 mm was a challenge which Suessen, with vast experience, overcame by lifting the drafting zone. The compact system not only improved the quality, but also helped in increasing the productivity. The compara-tive quality parameters are given in table 2.
This improvement in the quality was pos-sible with State-of-Art Suessen components backed by good after-sales service and tech-nological support given by Suessen.
The yarns produced by the Company are suit-able for multiple applications such as knitted & woven apparels, terry towels, denims, home furnishing, medical and industrial fabrics. The knitted fabrics produced by the company are used by renowned brands in Apparel and Gar-ment Industry.
Mr. Sandeep Garg, Vice President
Nitin Spinners Ltd has achieved turnover of 80.75 million $ during the year 2011-12 out of which exports is about 56.60 million $.
Due to its impeccable quality standards, about 70 % of its produce is exported to more than 50 countries across the globe including the European Union, USA, Latin America, Middle East Asia, Far East Asian countries, African countries etc.
The company is a Star Export House. The company is also having ISO 9001 Quality Certifi cate and is also certifi ed for OEKO Tex Standard & GOTS/OE Sustainable Textiles and for Producing Organic Yarn.
The company has also been awarded TEX-PROCIL Silver Trophy for Second Highest Exports in the category of Grey Fabrics for the year 2006-07 and 2007-08 and bronze trophy for the year 2010-11. The company has also been conferred State Award for “Excellence in Exports” for the year 2007-08 and 2010-11 by the Government of Rajasthan.
Mr. Dinesh Nolkha informed that because of good quality they get a premium of approxi-mately Rs. 5.00 per kilogram even on normal yarn and with compact they get further ad-ditional Rs. 8.00. Further a signifi cant increase in production is achieved.
System EliTe® Conv. EliTe® Conv. EliTe® Conv. EliTe® Conv.
Yarn count in Ne 40/1 40/1 30/1 30/1
Material code CWC CWE CHCX CHX CHCX CHX CWC CW
Average Count 40.20 40.20 39.98 39.99 29.98 29.98 30.40 30.30
Count CV% 1.0 1.0 0.95 0.96 0.90 0.93 0.90 0.95
TPI 25.95 26.80 22.16 23.45 19.10 19.65 22.16 22.50
TM 4.09 4.23 3.50 3.71 3.49 3.59 4.02 4.09
CSP 3300 2720 3018 2520 3050 2568 3320 2750
RKM 21.74 19.30 20.59 17.90 20.70 18.00 22.50 19.50
RKM CV% 7.50 8.50 8.50 8.90 8.20 8.80 7.50 8.20
Elongation % 4.50 3.80 4.20 3.90 4.80 4.40 5.50 4.60
Elongation CV% 8.50 9.50 7.20 8.40 7.50 8.80 8.00 8.60
U% 9.10 10.18 9.0 10.17 8.6 9.52 8.9 9.4
Thin (-50%) 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0
Thick (+50%) 12 29 12 26 10 14 10 12
Neps (+200 /+280%) 53 75 50 67 25 42 30 53
Total IPI 65 105 62 94 35 56 40 65
H.I. 4.00 5.85 4.20 6.00 4.60 6.60 4.40 6.40
Classimat
Short Faults(A1toD4) 58.0 72.0 52.0 68.5 40.0 55.5 50.0 55.0
Long Faults (EFG) 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Thin Faults (HI) 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Objectionable (Top-6) 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Total Faults 58.0 72.0 52.0 68.5 40.0 55.5 50.0 55.0
Gms/Spl/Shift 130.0 125.0 143 135 224 205 200 191
Table 2
2530 No. 27
ance. Conversion of KTTM machines with tube length of 210 mm was a challenge which Suessen, with vast experience, overcame by lifting the drafting zone. The compact system not only improved the quality, but also helped in increasing the productivity. The compara-tive quality parameters are given in table 2.
This improvement in the quality was pos-sible with State-of-Art Suessen components backed by good after-sales service and tech-nological support given by Suessen.
The yarns produced by the Company are suit-able for multiple applications such as knitted & woven apparels, terry towels, denims, home furnishing, medical and industrial fabrics. The knitted fabrics produced by the company are used by renowned brands in Apparel and Gar-ment Industry.
Mr. Sandeep Garg, Vice President
Nitin Spinners Ltd has achieved turnover of 80.75 million $ during the year 2011-12 out of which exports is about 56.60 million $.
Due to its impeccable quality standards, about 70 % of its produce is exported to more than 50 countries across the globe including the European Union, USA, Latin America, Middle East Asia, Far East Asian countries, African countries etc.
The company is a Star Export House. The company is also having ISO 9001 Quality Certifi cate and is also certifi ed for OEKO Tex Standard & GOTS/OE Sustainable Textiles and for Producing Organic Yarn.
The company has also been awarded TEX-PROCIL Silver Trophy for Second Highest Exports in the category of Grey Fabrics for the year 2006-07 and 2007-08 and bronze trophy for the year 2010-11. The company has also been conferred State Award for “Excellence in Exports” for the year 2007-08 and 2010-11 by the Government of Rajasthan.
Mr. Dinesh Nolkha informed that because of good quality they get a premium of approxi-mately Rs. 5.00 per kilogram even on normal yarn and with compact they get further ad-ditional Rs. 8.00. Further a signifi cant increase in production is achieved.
System EliTe® Conv. EliTe® Conv. EliTe® Conv. EliTe® Conv.
Yarn count in Ne 40/1 40/1 30/1 30/1
Material code CWC CWE CHCX CHX CHCX CHX CWC CW
Average Count 40.20 40.20 39.98 39.99 29.98 29.98 30.40 30.30
Count CV% 1.0 1.0 0.95 0.96 0.90 0.93 0.90 0.95
TPI 25.95 26.80 22.16 23.45 19.10 19.65 22.16 22.50
TM 4.09 4.23 3.50 3.71 3.49 3.59 4.02 4.09
CSP 3300 2720 3018 2520 3050 2568 3320 2750
RKM 21.74 19.30 20.59 17.90 20.70 18.00 22.50 19.50
RKM CV% 7.50 8.50 8.50 8.90 8.20 8.80 7.50 8.20
Elongation % 4.50 3.80 4.20 3.90 4.80 4.40 5.50 4.60
Elongation CV% 8.50 9.50 7.20 8.40 7.50 8.80 8.00 8.60
U% 9.10 10.18 9.0 10.17 8.6 9.52 8.9 9.4
Thin (-50%) 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0
Thick (+50%) 12 29 12 26 10 14 10 12
Neps (+200 /+280%) 53 75 50 67 25 42 30 53
Total IPI 65 105 62 94 35 56 40 65
H.I. 4.00 5.85 4.20 6.00 4.60 6.60 4.40 6.40
Classimat
Short Faults(A1toD4) 58.0 72.0 52.0 68.5 40.0 55.5 50.0 55.0
Long Faults (EFG) 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Thin Faults (HI) 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Objectionable (Top-6) 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Total Faults 58.0 72.0 52.0 68.5 40.0 55.5 50.0 55.0
Gms/Spl/Shift 130.0 125.0 143 135 224 205 200 191
Table 2
31No. 29
MILL REPORT
Contact:
L.S. Mills Ltd.,Madurai Road,Theni - 625531. India.Phone: +91 4546 325001 - 05Fax: +91 4546 252742E-Mail: [email protected]: www.lsmills.com
Peter Stahlecker, Managing Director
Mr. L.S. Prabhakaran, Joint Managing Director
Mr. S. Manivannan, Managing Director
L.S. MILLS LTD., Theni
The L.S. Mills empire is built on a bedrock of values: putting its people fi rst, scaling up to the next level of technology and always being able to travel the extra mile for its clientele and associates.
With every growth ring, the group travels a step further: by creating more value and by enriching its capabilities.
Headed by Mr. S. Manivannan, the Managing Director and Mr. L.S. Prabhakaran, the Joint Managing Director, the group is managed by a team of qualifi ed and experienced profession-als. This has ensured that the group maintains a steady growth curve, whilst paving way for its people to embrace newer technologies.
The group has consistently invested in tech-nology and has helped it create a vertically integrated entity. With an integrated spinning, weaving and fabric manufacturing facility, each division functions as an independent profi t centre.
Innovation is one of the keystones of the group, be it in technology led initiatives or in exploring di� erent possibilities. This is made possible by creating a free-spirited work cul-ture, allowing people to nurture creativity.
Spinning
At the Spinning Division, the focus is on retain-ing the purity of the nature-sourced fabric. This is achieved by using a judicious mix of conventional, people-monitored processes and state of the art machinery.
The Spinning Division of L.S. Mills comprises 150,000 spindles that cater to a daily produc-tion demand of 25 tonnes of ultra fi ne yarn everyday: L.S. Mills is equipped with TFO, Gassed Yarn and Dye Cone Winders. The spinning shop fl oor sports a range of imported machinery
L.S. Mills is a vision that has grown richer with time. From one strength to another, the group has grown to become an entity that not only has raised the bar in excellence through production, but has worked to become an exemplary Corporate entity.
From a vision born in 1979 in Theni, a small hamlet in Tamil Nadu, South India, to a group with a well entrenched presence in spinning, weaving and made ups, L.S. Mills has grown from strength to strength. Its visionary manage-ment, its passion for innovation and its com-mitment to excellence has fuelled its growth.
Spinnovation No. 29.indd 31 08.05.2014 09:19:32
2632 No. 29
Spinning mill
LS Mills, Office
from globally recognised names including Suessen, Muratec, Rieter and SSM. This allows complete control over the spinning pro-cesses and thereby ensures maximum purity.
The company operates 60,000 EliTe®Compact Spindles and 35,000 EliTwist®Compact Spin-dles. Further pending orders include another 11,000 EliTe®Compact Spindles.
L.S. Mills specialises in the manufacture of Ne 60 to 160s in Egyptian, Indian and Supima cotton. The yarn is spun in single, double, plied, gassed and greige (before gassing) va-rieties. The division also caters to customised demands of soft packaging.
Weaving
From spinning, to weaving, the progression was a natural transition for L.S. Mills. The expansion was also a result of an increase in demand for quality woven cottons from around the world.
The weaving division caters to a daily demand of 300 to 1200 thread counts of grey fabric in twill, drill, satin, stripe and dobby varieties. Keeping pace with the production need, are the latest line of Beninger Sizing and Warping machines and Tsudakoma air jets.
Quality takes precedence in every stage of the weaving process. The division caters to both European and American markets and is graded on the American 4 point system. Since its inception, the unit has scaled up its perfor-mance levels to match less than 10 points per 100 linear metres.
Made Ups
Innovation led L.S. Mills to create a distinct identity as a quality manufacturer of made ups. With the worldwide demand for ethnic In-dian made ups and wovens steadily climbing, the company has already established a niche in select markets.
A qualifi ed talent pool steers the innovation in design and texture. Besides o� ering com-prehensive design training programmes for people, the company also ensures that the processes are upgraded to the next level of technology.
The stitching unit produces world-class bed linen in 300 to 1200 thread counts and caters to a ready demand of about 100,000 sets per month.
The Fruit: Our Yarn Products:
Single: Ne 60s to 160s Normal and Compact produced from Indian, Giza and Supima Cotton & Tencel Yarns from Lenzing
Plied: Ne 60/2 to 120/2 Two for One Twisted Yarn
Gassed: Ne 60/2 to 120/2 Gassed yarn in hard & soft packages
L.S. Mills entered into Innovation in 2006 by installing compact spinning. L.S. Mills, a pio-neer in fi ner counts, found Suessen Compact a blessing. The quality team of L.S. through R&D have studied the advantages reaped by using Suessen EliTe®CompactSet.
Spinnovation No. 29.indd 32 08.05.2014 09:19:33
2732 No. 29
Spinning mill
LS Mills, Office
from globally recognised names including Suessen, Muratec, Rieter and SSM. This allows complete control over the spinning pro-cesses and thereby ensures maximum purity.
The company operates 60,000 EliTe®Compact Spindles and 35,000 EliTwist®Compact Spin-dles. Further pending orders include another 11,000 EliTe®Compact Spindles.
L.S. Mills specialises in the manufacture of Ne 60 to 160s in Egyptian, Indian and Supima cotton. The yarn is spun in single, double, plied, gassed and greige (before gassing) va-rieties. The division also caters to customised demands of soft packaging.
Weaving
From spinning, to weaving, the progression was a natural transition for L.S. Mills. The expansion was also a result of an increase in demand for quality woven cottons from around the world.
The weaving division caters to a daily demand of 300 to 1200 thread counts of grey fabric in twill, drill, satin, stripe and dobby varieties. Keeping pace with the production need, are the latest line of Beninger Sizing and Warping machines and Tsudakoma air jets.
Quality takes precedence in every stage of the weaving process. The division caters to both European and American markets and is graded on the American 4 point system. Since its inception, the unit has scaled up its perfor-mance levels to match less than 10 points per 100 linear metres.
Made Ups
Innovation led L.S. Mills to create a distinct identity as a quality manufacturer of made ups. With the worldwide demand for ethnic In-dian made ups and wovens steadily climbing, the company has already established a niche in select markets.
A qualifi ed talent pool steers the innovation in design and texture. Besides o� ering com-prehensive design training programmes for people, the company also ensures that the processes are upgraded to the next level of technology.
The stitching unit produces world-class bed linen in 300 to 1200 thread counts and caters to a ready demand of about 100,000 sets per month.
The Fruit: Our Yarn Products:
Single: Ne 60s to 160s Normal and Compact produced from Indian, Giza and Supima Cotton & Tencel Yarns from Lenzing
Plied: Ne 60/2 to 120/2 Two for One Twisted Yarn
Gassed: Ne 60/2 to 120/2 Gassed yarn in hard & soft packages
L.S. Mills entered into Innovation in 2006 by installing compact spinning. L.S. Mills, a pio-neer in fi ner counts, found Suessen Compact a blessing. The quality team of L.S. through R&D have studied the advantages reaped by using Suessen EliTe®CompactSet.
Spinnovation No. 29.indd 32 08.05.2014 09:19:33
33No. 29
Weaving - graphics
Home furnishing
The benefi ts are:
• Superior quality• Reduction in imperfection & hairiness• Increase in CSP• Increase in production• Better realization• End breakages are lower
The performance of yarn in the loom is observed in their own campus as they have a well facilitated weaving department running the latest Tsudakoma Airjet Looms.
EliTwist® Yarn
Compared to TFO gassed yarn, there are con-siderable savings when producing EliTwist®.We have replaced TFO in some market with EliTwist® yarn completely. Please refer to Chart 1 for details.
Advantages of EliTwist®Compact Yarn
• Imperfection is lower• End breakages are lower• In some market, we can eliminate the par-
allel winding, TFO and winding. The cost of power and labour associated with this process is eliminated
• Production rate is double than Conven-tional TFO
Advantages of compact yarn
• The spinning, warping and loom perfor-mance increases by 10-15 %
• Better realization• Better hairiness binding; lower fl y libration,
lower size pickup in sizing• Warp breaks are lower in looms• Resistance against abrasion and pilling• Fuzziness is lower on fi nished fabric• Extra smoothness on fabric surface
Fabrics
Manufacturers of Plain Satin, Satin Stripes, Percale and Dobby Fabrics in the range of 300 TC to 1200 TC out of Indian, Giza and Supima cotton.
Chart 1 EliTwist® versus TFO comparison.
Ne 100/2s CW
High Twist TFO, gassed
Ne 100/2s CW
EliTwist® Compact, gassed
Count 50.0 50.0
CSP 2700 3150
CT CV% 1.5 1.5
ST CV% 4.5 4.5
RKM-UTJ4 20.68 24.70
RKM-UTR 18.00 21.5
RKM CV% 11.50 8.50
Elongation 8.00 7.50
Elongation CV% 10.20 8.50
U% 9.30 9.50
THIN (-50%) 1 6
THICK (+50%) 15 24
NEPS (+200) 84 60
Total 100 90
Hairiness Indexgreige (before gassing)
2.80 1.50
sh 0.22 0.20
Spinnovation No. 29.indd 33 08.05.2014 09:19:34
2834 No. 29
Santiniketan Matriculation Higher Secondary School Workers taking the pledge
Mrs. Shanthi Manivannan, Director
Made Ups
Special hems like Foggotting, Marrowing, Piped, Pleated, etc. on designs like Dobbies, Striped, Satin and Percale can be supplied. Exceptional fi nishes like Bio polishing, Super-soft, Wrinkle resistance, Nano and Aloe Vera are also done based on customer’s require-ment.
Quality – The Ruling Philosophy
At L.S. Mills, the passion for quality underlies every endeavour. From acquiring the best of technology, to bringing together rare tal-ent, the L.S. group ensures that its products always conform to the highest possible quality standards. An ISO 9001 certifi ed company by BVC warrants streamlined processes across the divisions. Each division is equipped with modern testing equipment, making it possible for L.S. Mills to make inroads in quality con-scious markets throughout the world.
The QA team adopts online and o� ine moni-toring measures to continuously assess the quality compliance of various processes.
The passion for quality permeates to the grass roots level, which means that every member of the team is aware of the collective progress towards perfection.
Santiniketan Matriculation School
Success for the L.S. Mills group is a measure that travels beyond boundaries. The Santini-ketan Matriculation School, run by the L.S. Educational and Charity Trust, is a refl ection of the group’s conscious e� ort to create an ideal environment for learning.
Located on the Theni-Cumbum Main Road, the school has become the educational institution of choice for school goers around the region. With an emphasis on grooming all-round personalities through holistic learning and a Montessori system for pre-schoolers, this landmark institution envisions transforming the lives of the rural and semi urban communi-ties.
Santiniketan is spread over a lush expanse of land and is well equipped with a Swimming pool, Badminton & Tennis courts and a state of the art gymnasium.
The Management takes active part in over-seeing the functioning of the school and has enabled the school to become one of the most sought after educational institutions in the region.
GoodBetterPremiumExperience the difference
www.premium-textile-components.com
Spinnovation No. 29.indd 34 08.05.2014 09:19:41
2934 No. 29
Santiniketan Matriculation Higher Secondary School Workers taking the pledge
Mrs. Shanthi Manivannan, Director
Made Ups
Special hems like Foggotting, Marrowing, Piped, Pleated, etc. on designs like Dobbies, Striped, Satin and Percale can be supplied. Exceptional fi nishes like Bio polishing, Super-soft, Wrinkle resistance, Nano and Aloe Vera are also done based on customer’s require-ment.
Quality – The Ruling Philosophy
At L.S. Mills, the passion for quality underlies every endeavour. From acquiring the best of technology, to bringing together rare tal-ent, the L.S. group ensures that its products always conform to the highest possible quality standards. An ISO 9001 certifi ed company by BVC warrants streamlined processes across the divisions. Each division is equipped with modern testing equipment, making it possible for L.S. Mills to make inroads in quality con-scious markets throughout the world.
The QA team adopts online and o� ine moni-toring measures to continuously assess the quality compliance of various processes.
The passion for quality permeates to the grass roots level, which means that every member of the team is aware of the collective progress towards perfection.
Santiniketan Matriculation School
Success for the L.S. Mills group is a measure that travels beyond boundaries. The Santini-ketan Matriculation School, run by the L.S. Educational and Charity Trust, is a refl ection of the group’s conscious e� ort to create an ideal environment for learning.
Located on the Theni-Cumbum Main Road, the school has become the educational institution of choice for school goers around the region. With an emphasis on grooming all-round personalities through holistic learning and a Montessori system for pre-schoolers, this landmark institution envisions transforming the lives of the rural and semi urban communi-ties.
Santiniketan is spread over a lush expanse of land and is well equipped with a Swimming pool, Badminton & Tennis courts and a state of the art gymnasium.
The Management takes active part in over-seeing the functioning of the school and has enabled the school to become one of the most sought after educational institutions in the region.
GoodBetterPremiumExperience the difference
www.premium-textile-components.com
Spinnovation No. 29.indd 34 08.05.2014 09:19:41
26 No. 29
K.C. Oberoi, Venus Textile Systems, India
MILL REPORT
Fig. 1: Mr. Munish Avasthi - Managing Director
Department Installed Capacity
Production Capacity (TPA) Products
Ring Spinning 81,600 spindles 14,875100% combed cotton yarn, poly cotton blended yarn, organic cotton, BCI cotton, Ne 20’s to 40’s (weaving and hosiery)
Compact Ring Spinning 57,120 spindles 11,132
100% combed cotton compact yarn, EliTe®Yarn, organic cotton, BCI cotton, Ne 20’s to 40’s, EliTe® 2/40 (weaving and hosiery)
TFO 4,320 drums 3,960100% combed cotton ring/compact yarn, organic cotton, BCI cotton, NE 2/20’s to 2/40’s (weaving and hosiery - spliced)
Fig. 2: Mr. Shiv Kumar Sharma - President
Chart 1: installed spinning capacity, production capacity and the range of yarns
The Sportking Formula: Vision + Determination = Success
The success story of Sportking started in the year 1977: Mr. Raj Avasthi started a ready-made garment unit in Ludhiana. This was a bold step at a time when not too many such units were operating in India.
His vision and his determination to succeed paid o� ! Today the Sportking Group is a verti-cally integrated organization, having spinning, processing, knitting and garment making, and has an annual turnover of around US$ 200,000,000.
Sportking has two units in Punjab state of India. The fi rst unit is at Ludhiana and has 72,480 spindles.
Sportking has started a new unit located near Bathinda where 138,720 spindles have already been installed. Out of these 57,120 are on Compact Spinning. The new mill is located on a plot of 68 acres, of which about 34 are oc-cupied so far. Clearly, Sportking has intentions to expand – and they surely will do so!
Today, Sportking operates under the dynamic leadership of Mr. Munish Avasthi, Managing Director.
Mr. Stahlecker, MD of Suessen, and myself met Mr. Avasthi for the fi rst time in June 2010.
Contact:Village Kanech, G.T. Road, Near Sahnewal Ludhiana, Punjab – 141120, IndiaPhone +91 161 2845456 to 60Fax +91 161 2845458 E-mail: [email protected]: www.sportking.co.in
Spinnovation No. 29.indd 26 08.05.2014 09:19:25
3027No. 29
Chart 2: Quality and productivity data Fig. 3: Quality assurance
Fig. 4: New Bathinda Mill
System Compact EliTe®V5 Compact EliTe®V5 EliTwist®V5
Yarn Count 40/1 30/1 2/40
Material Code CWC CWC CWC
Twist Z Z S /Z
Average Count 40.2 30.2 20.2
Count CV% 1 1 1
TPI 26.25 22.46 19.00
TM 4.15 4.10 4.25
CSP 3200 3250 3400
RKM 21.50 22.50 24.50
Elongation % 4.50 5.50 6.2
UT5 Test Results
U% 9.80 9.20 7.5
Thin (-50%) 0 0 0
Thick (+50%) 20 15 8
Neps (+200%) 45 30 15
Total IPI 65 45 23
H 3.9 4.4 4.4
Gms / Spdle / Shift 128 200 300
Very obviously, we discussed compact spin-ning, and Mr. Stahlecker was visibly impressed with his absolutely detailed knowledge of the systems available in the market, their applica-tions, their strength and their weaknesses.
Less than 18 months later, Mr. Avasthi had decided, which compact system was best for him, and Suessen received their fi rst order for conversion of 24,480 spindles on Rieter’s G32 Ring Frames with EliTe®Compact Spinning System.
Satisfi ed with the system, quality and the production achieved, ease of operation and the service provided by Suessen and its as-sociates in India, Sportking followed by the conversion of further 32,640 spindles on LMW LR 9 machines with EliTe®, and also some EliTwist®Compact Systems.
Today, about 42% of the installed spindles at Sportking, Bathinda Unit, are equipped with Suessen EliTe® or Suessen EliTwist®. The exact break-down of the installed spinning capacity, production capacity and the range of yarns is given below in Chart 1.
Some quality and productivity data given by the mill’s President Mr. Shiv Kumar Sharma are reproduced below in Chart 2.
At Sportking, they know that quality does not just happen, but it is the result of hard work and constant monitoring. The mill has highly trained and motivated sta� and employees. To achieve the high quality standards the mill is equipped with state-of-art technology machines and testing equipment like latest cards and combers from Rieter, ring frames from Rieter and LMW, compact equipment from Suessen and latest testing equipment from Uster.
No doubt Sportking is leader in both knitting and weaving yarn and commanding premium. The mill is exporting about 80 % of its produc-tion to more than 50 countries across the globe including USA, Europe, Latin America, China and other countries in Asia etc.
At Sportking they know that good and con-sistent quality requires a conducive environ-ment. The layout of the mill is in line with this knowledge, as may be seen in Figs. 3 and 4.
Spinnovation No. 29.indd 27 08.05.2014 09:19:26
3127No. 29
Chart 2: Quality and productivity data Fig. 3: Quality assurance
Fig. 4: New Bathinda Mill
System Compact EliTe®V5 Compact EliTe®V5 EliTwist®V5
Yarn Count 40/1 30/1 2/40
Material Code CWC CWC CWC
Twist Z Z S /Z
Average Count 40.2 30.2 20.2
Count CV% 1 1 1
TPI 26.25 22.46 19.00
TM 4.15 4.10 4.25
CSP 3200 3250 3400
RKM 21.50 22.50 24.50
Elongation % 4.50 5.50 6.2
UT5 Test Results
U% 9.80 9.20 7.5
Thin (-50%) 0 0 0
Thick (+50%) 20 15 8
Neps (+200%) 45 30 15
Total IPI 65 45 23
H 3.9 4.4 4.4
Gms / Spdle / Shift 128 200 300
Very obviously, we discussed compact spin-ning, and Mr. Stahlecker was visibly impressed with his absolutely detailed knowledge of the systems available in the market, their applica-tions, their strength and their weaknesses.
Less than 18 months later, Mr. Avasthi had decided, which compact system was best for him, and Suessen received their fi rst order for conversion of 24,480 spindles on Rieter’s G32 Ring Frames with EliTe®Compact Spinning System.
Satisfi ed with the system, quality and the production achieved, ease of operation and the service provided by Suessen and its as-sociates in India, Sportking followed by the conversion of further 32,640 spindles on LMW LR 9 machines with EliTe®, and also some EliTwist®Compact Systems.
Today, about 42% of the installed spindles at Sportking, Bathinda Unit, are equipped with Suessen EliTe® or Suessen EliTwist®. The exact break-down of the installed spinning capacity, production capacity and the range of yarns is given below in Chart 1.
Some quality and productivity data given by the mill’s President Mr. Shiv Kumar Sharma are reproduced below in Chart 2.
At Sportking, they know that quality does not just happen, but it is the result of hard work and constant monitoring. The mill has highly trained and motivated sta� and employees. To achieve the high quality standards the mill is equipped with state-of-art technology machines and testing equipment like latest cards and combers from Rieter, ring frames from Rieter and LMW, compact equipment from Suessen and latest testing equipment from Uster.
No doubt Sportking is leader in both knitting and weaving yarn and commanding premium. The mill is exporting about 80 % of its produc-tion to more than 50 countries across the globe including USA, Europe, Latin America, China and other countries in Asia etc.
At Sportking they know that good and con-sistent quality requires a conducive environ-ment. The layout of the mill is in line with this knowledge, as may be seen in Figs. 3 and 4.
Spinnovation No. 29.indd 27 08.05.2014 09:19:26
28 No. 29
Fig. 5 Fig. 6
Fig. 7: One of many Sportking show rooms
As one enters the mill this fi rst impression is confi rmed: The mill is spotless, see Figs. 5 and 6.
One vision of the MD was to get closer to the fi nal customer of his mill’s products. Thanks to his determination, Sportking has 74 show rooms all over India – and knowing Mr. Avasthi you can be sure that this number will increase. Well-known brands of Sportking include Men-tor, Woodburn and Sportking kids wear and Sublime – the high quality Compact Yarn.
At Sportking social responsibility is taken seriously. Employment for about 8,000 people has been created. Not content with this achievement, the Sportking Institute of Fash-ion Technology was established in Ludhiana in 2005, o� ering young people the opportunity to acquire marketable skills.
It is a pleasure for Suessen to be associated with such a dynamic group!
Spinnovation No. 29.indd 28 08.05.2014 09:19:28
3214SPINNOVATION No. 26
Indian innovative customers were involved in Suessen EliTe®Compact Spinning nearly from the very begin-ning. This gave them a unique op-portunity to fully exploit this new technology in ways the manufacturer of the equipment (Suessen) could not have dreamed about! They immedi-ately understood what was meant by Mr. Peter Stahlecker, JMD of Suessen, when he stated: Suessen IS merely the builder of the piano. The Piano players and the creators of new and previously unknown symphonies are the customers only!
The successful installations of around 35 Lakhs EliTe®Compact Spindles in India have opened up numerous av-enues of utilising the EliTe®Compact Spinning System. High quality spin-ners make Premium EliTe®Yarn like
• Ne 100s - 30 RKM, 80 IPI, • Ne 70s - 31 RKM, 35 IPI,• Ne 50s - 33 RKM, below 30 IPI.
Some others manufacture products with higher RKM, lower IPI, low hairi-ness to meet demands of corporate buyers for shirting and bed linen.
Many of our customers take advan-tage of EliTe® for higher RKM, lower hairiness along with saving in raw materials.
Many knitting yarn producers achieve higher spinning productivity up to 15% using EliTe®Compact Spinning System with less pneumafil waste and saving in raw material.
Our composite customers achieve more value for money by making yarn suiting their weaving and knit-ting with increased efficiency in down stream processes. They have also ad-
EliTe®CompactSpinning:Rawmaterialsaving–AreviewofIndiansituation
ByMathewJose,VenusTextileSystem,Coimbatore,India
ditional benefits like higher strength of the fabric, less pilling, better luster, clearer print, better feel & appear-ance, endurance of the fabric etc.,
Our customers with knitting con-firmed that some products are re-placed with single EliTe®Yarn con-struction in place of normal double.
Less spirality, lower fly, and dust lib-eration in knitting, lower shrinkage of the fabric are some other benefits being experienced by them.
Some special products manufacturers take advantages of savings in singeing operation apart from developing new final products.
The success of EliTwist® is also being made use of by our customers with focused marketing efforts. Of course EliTwist® gives the quickest pay back.
EliTe® and EliTwist®Technology with the new ACP NT package (Active Cradle with PINSpacer NT) has evolved new standards of quality as
Typeofyarn
manufacturing
Conventional
ringspunyarnEliTe®Yarn EliTe®Yarn EliTe®Yarn
MixingDCH – 60%
MCU5 – 40%
DCH – 20%
MCU5 – 80%
DCH – 10%
MCU 5 – 90%MCU 5 – 100%
Noil% 20% 15% 15% 18%
QualityResults: Ne 100/1 Ne 100/1 Ne 100/1 Ne 100/1
I)Lineardensity
Actualcount(Ne) 98.82 99.9 99.81 98.64
CountCV% 1.76 1.72 1.64 1.9
MeanCSP 2582 2669 2557 2655
II)UsterTester4
U% 13.47 12.45 12.54 12.86
Thinplace(-50%) 151 56 69 96
Thickplace(+50%) 260 158 155 152
Neps(+280%) 346 219 225 170
Total 757 433 449 418
Hairiness 3.42 2.46 2.80 2.53
Chart 1
Typeofyarn
manufacturing
Conventional
ringspunyarnEliTe®Yarn EliTe®Yarn EliTe®Yarn
ArticleName40s
Mixing
Ne40/1
combedweaving
Ne40/1
combedweaving
Ne50/1
combedweaving
Ne60/1
combedweaving
Count 40.3 40.1 50.2 60.2
U% 10 9.8 10.5 11
Total IPI 75 60 100 150
RKM 18 20.2 19.3 18.8
Elongation% 5 5.4 4.53 4.34
Hairiness (H) 5.2 3.8 3.43 3.14
Chart 2
3315
SPINNOVATION No. 26
far as RKM, Uniformity, IPI values, hairiness etc., are concerned.
We have also come across some customers taking advantages of the hairiness reduction alone by substi-tuting normal yarn parameters with EliTe®Yarn and saving the raw ma-terial to the maximum extend. The reduction in hairiness alone allows substantial advantages in subsequent processes like warping, weaving and processing. This production may not be meant for the top notch custom-ers but the spinners are able to have a faster return on investment by tak-ing this route also.
Below are several examples of what Suessen EliTe® customers are doing everyday!
Ne120/140s:Some of our customers make Ne 120/1 and Ne 140/1 CW from 50% PIMA and 50% either 33 mm MCU 5 or DCH. The saving in mixing is to
the tune of Rs.15000 to Rs.20000 per candy. This is around Rs.70/Kg. They are achieving production of 20 gms per spindle shift. According to them around Rs.5040 savings per machine of 1200 spindle per day.
Ne100’s:Until a decade back, it was never thought that Ne 100/1 could be spun from 100% MCU5 or by replacing DCH substantially. Chart 1 shows, what is being done today by some Indian spinning mills.
The third column of this table shows that mixing with 10% DCH / 90% MCU5 along with 15% comber noil has produced EliTe®Yarn which is superior in hairiness by 20% and imperfections by 40% in comparison to normal yarn from 60% DCH / 40% MCU5 with 20% noil. Our custom-ers indicated that in this case the raw material saving due to 50% DCH and 5% comber noil is up to Rs.50/Kg for 100s which is around Rs.6000 saving per machine (1200 Spindles) per day. This means the payback of EliTe®CompactSet is less than 2 years from raw material saving alone after adjusting the cost of EliTe®Yarn.
Certain other customers make Ne 100/1 EliTe®Yarn using 80% MCU5 and 20% DCH with same comber noil and managing premium. Depending upon the strength and imperfection requirement the mixing can be varied and the maximum saving is possible when the strength of the normal yarn is the target.
Ne80/1:Those who are with Ne 80/1, switched over to 100% MCU5 in place of 100% DCH saving around Rs.11000 to Rs.12000 per candy. In addition to
this there is a saving of 1% comber noil is possible means saving of Rs.37 per kg by raw material which is Rs. 5300 saving per machine.
Ne60/1:For Ne 60/1 a combination of Mech + Sankar 6 replaces MCU5 with ad-ditional benefit of comber noil 1% to 2%, then the difference in mixing cost comes around Rs.15 per Kg. In place of Shankar – 6 Karnataka Bunny is used by some mills. The yarn pro-duced out of this mixing is superior in terms of all properties and further raw material saving has not been observed. But mills prefer higher pro-duction and better price along with the above raw material saving. Most of our 60s yarn spinners are catering to weavers demanding higher RKM. They have not attempted to save raw material to the tune of equalising yarn strength with normal yarn as the pay back is comfortable in the above combination.
Some of our customer save 25% Giza 86 by using 75% MCU5 and 25% Giza 86 for 60s EliTe® mixing in place of normal yarn mixing of 50% Giza 86 and 50% MCU 5. They have stated that this will result in a saving of Rs. 15/- Kg apart from the Rs. 15/- pre-mium possible due to better yarn strength and quality thus making around Rs. 30/- per Kg.
Ne40/1:For Ne 40/1 count up to 4% higher yarn realization is achieved which includes comber noil saving up to 3% along with this 10% production increase is commonly achieved. The tendency of increased Imperfections due to comber noil reduction is over come by using Suessen ACP package. The combination of savings in Raw
3416SPINNOVATION No. 26
Material alone Rs.4000 per machine per day and 2 years pay back.
In the case of Ne 40/1 combed ho-siery 15% more productivity and upto 3% more yarn realization% is being achieved.
Ne30/1:In case of Ne 30/1 combed hosiery 3% yarn realization and 15% addition-al productivity is the most commonly employed method.
In all the above practical cases the payback varies between 18 months to 24 months by employing different combinations of mixing, comber noil saving, pneumafil waste saving along with additional productivity. In major-ity of the cases a marginal premium is also possible for the better hairiness,
imperfections even if the yarn is sup-plied with strength matching normal yarn.
A look at the brochures of the manu-facturers of compact equipment will show that they added these advan-tages only AFTER they learned about them from their customers! This is re-ally a new and previously impossible symphony!
It goes without saying that “Some pianos are better than others” and surely the one from Suessen is the best: no other supplier can claim that his customers have achieved such impossible feasts, only EliTe® can do this full range!
Of course, there are other “novel symphonies” created by our custom-
ers, which are not in the core of this article, and be mentioned only in passing.
With the help of EliTwist® and the Suessen PINSpacer NT, customers again managed to create previously impossible yarns, ultimately creating profits for themselves.
The tools of raw material savings are at hand which will give a cutting edge in competition and better leverage in managing present crisis of spinning mills.
We encourage our Suessen EliTe®Compact customers continue being innovative, for the advantage and the betterment of the whole industry! We encourage them to chal-lenge Suessen to build better pianos!
28SPINNOVATION No. 25
Our History:
Sri Nachammai Cotton Mills Limited was founded in the year 1956 by Sri. M.A. Palaniappa Chettiar at Chettinad, Sivaganga District, Tamilnadu, India. Originally it was known as “The Jawahar Mills Limited, Chettinad Branch”. The Jawahar Mills Limited was bifurcated in the year 1980 into “Salem & Chettinad Units”. The Chettinad unit was renamed as Sri Nachammai Cotton Mills Limited.
The units have been expanded and now consist of ‘A’ unit with 33,600 spindles, ‘B’ unit with 9,072 spindles and a leased unit at Salem consisting of 10,944 spindles and 504 rotors.
The units have been modernized over the years and consist of ma-chinery predominantly from LMW and also a few machines from Rieter, Truetzschler, Crosrol, Schlafhorst, Murata, Uster and now, naturally, Suessen.
The units have been catering mainly to the local hosiery and powerloom markets. Now our focus is to allo-cate 30 to 40% of our production for exports. Future focus of the units will be on value addition.
Suessen Story:
First we conducted trials with the Suessen Active Cradles and PINSpacers where we found substan-tial improvement in quality.
Then we installed Suessen EliTe® CompactSet for the entire spindleage in A & B units.
Now we are conducting trials with Suessen Top Weighting Arms HP-GX
Sri Nachammai Cotton Mills Ltd.
by P. Palaniappan, Managing Director, Sri Nachammai, India
3010 and EliTwist® for another 2000 spindles.
With Suessen Top Weighting Arms we have achieved quality improvement and in our next phase of moderniza-tion we are planning to install these on our other frames. Our Suessen story has been one of success and hope to establish a long-standing re-lationship with Suessen.
Our experiences with EliTe®Compact:
Originally a niche product, the com-pact yarn has made advances into more and more applications in recent years, so that the survival of many manufacturers now depends on their ability to offer compact yarn.
Compact Spinning: in this system the fibres are arranged in a completely parallel and close position before twist is imparted. This is the most important criterion for a perfect compact yarn.
This system eliminates the spinning triangle of the conventional ring spinning. The fibres are arranged in a close and parallel position to one another with the help of
• an airflow produced by vacuum• EliTop • the lattice apron to guide the fi-
bres over the inclined slot of the EliTube which is under negative pressure.
The fibres leaving the compacting zone are perfectly parallel and in close contact with one another and twist is inserted to this round fibre strand leaving the compact zone.
Since the fibres are parallel and in close contact with each other, each fibre contributes to the yarn strength which results in increased strength of yarn by about 10% to 15% and 85% hairiness reduction when compared to conventional ring yarn.
The compact yarn has made revolu-tionary advantages in many of the
3528SPINNOVATION No. 25
Our History:
Sri Nachammai Cotton Mills Limited was founded in the year 1956 by Sri. M.A. Palaniappa Chettiar at Chettinad, Sivaganga District, Tamilnadu, India. Originally it was known as “The Jawahar Mills Limited, Chettinad Branch”. The Jawahar Mills Limited was bifurcated in the year 1980 into “Salem & Chettinad Units”. The Chettinad unit was renamed as Sri Nachammai Cotton Mills Limited.
The units have been expanded and now consist of ‘A’ unit with 33,600 spindles, ‘B’ unit with 9,072 spindles and a leased unit at Salem consisting of 10,944 spindles and 504 rotors.
The units have been modernized over the years and consist of ma-chinery predominantly from LMW and also a few machines from Rieter, Truetzschler, Crosrol, Schlafhorst, Murata, Uster and now, naturally, Suessen.
The units have been catering mainly to the local hosiery and powerloom markets. Now our focus is to allo-cate 30 to 40% of our production for exports. Future focus of the units will be on value addition.
Suessen Story:
First we conducted trials with the Suessen Active Cradles and PINSpacers where we found substan-tial improvement in quality.
Then we installed Suessen EliTe® CompactSet for the entire spindleage in A & B units.
Now we are conducting trials with Suessen Top Weighting Arms HP-GX
Sri Nachammai Cotton Mills Ltd.
by P. Palaniappan, Managing Director, Sri Nachammai, India
3010 and EliTwist® for another 2000 spindles.
With Suessen Top Weighting Arms we have achieved quality improvement and in our next phase of moderniza-tion we are planning to install these on our other frames. Our Suessen story has been one of success and hope to establish a long-standing re-lationship with Suessen.
Our experiences with EliTe®Compact:
Originally a niche product, the com-pact yarn has made advances into more and more applications in recent years, so that the survival of many manufacturers now depends on their ability to offer compact yarn.
Compact Spinning: in this system the fibres are arranged in a completely parallel and close position before twist is imparted. This is the most important criterion for a perfect compact yarn.
This system eliminates the spinning triangle of the conventional ring spinning. The fibres are arranged in a close and parallel position to one another with the help of
• an airflow produced by vacuum• EliTop • the lattice apron to guide the fi-
bres over the inclined slot of the EliTube which is under negative pressure.
The fibres leaving the compacting zone are perfectly parallel and in close contact with one another and twist is inserted to this round fibre strand leaving the compact zone.
Since the fibres are parallel and in close contact with each other, each fibre contributes to the yarn strength which results in increased strength of yarn by about 10% to 15% and 85% hairiness reduction when compared to conventional ring yarn.
The compact yarn has made revolu-tionary advantages in many of the
3629
SPINNOVATION No. 25
yarn parameters like strength, elon-gation, hairiness, etc. and has set new quality standards and proven to be cost effective in spinning process as well as in down stream processing.
Advantages of Compact Yarn
The warping and knitting perfor-mance increases by 10% to 15% due to higher strength.
Fly generation reduces considerably in the warping and knitting machine due to less protruding fibres. This eliminates the frequent cleaning work of warping and knitting machine, by which machine down-time is reduced thus increasing the machine utiliza-tion.
The sizing chemical consumption reduces due to less numbers of pro-truding fibres on the yarn. Some of our customers replace sizing process by waxing process and thereby saving in water and chemicals.
The yarn has low resistance at the reeds of the loom due to low pro-
truding fibres, which increase the efficiency of looms and reduced fly generation.
The weight loss is minimized due to low fly generation.
The quantity of dye absorption of cloth made from compact yarn is re-duced considerably due to low hairi-ness of yarn.
The dye absorption of cloth made from compact yarn is uniform and gives more aesthetic look than the cloth made from conventional yarn.
The dye absorption in the printing process is more uniform and has no bleeding effect; this increases the ap-pealing effect of the fabric.
Hairiness causes pilling effect on the fabric, which reduces the soft-ness and appearance of the cloth. To reduce this effect costly enzyme processes are done. This process is totally eliminated in the case of fabric made from compact yarn – this applies especially for knitted fabric.
Contact: Sugavaneswara Road,Balaji NagarSalem-TamilNadu-636004 e-mail: [email protected]
NEWS
Production Chart Sri Nachammai: besides the below given improvements there is a
significant reduction in fly liberation in the spinning and winding department
Unit Count TPI TM CSP HairinessEnds
100spl/hr GMS/SPL
Production increase
EliTe®
conv. EliTe® conv. EliTe® conv. EliTe® conv. EliTe® conv. EliTe® conv. EliTe®
A
20s CHY 16.10 14.38 3.62 3.26 2820 2898 8.16 6.47 6-7 4-5 320 390 21.9 %
24s CHY 17.74 15.87 3.64 3.24 2690 2722 7.49 4.82 6-7 4-5 240 292 21.7 %
26s CHY 18.65 16.93 3.65 3.32 2607 2883 7.26 5.64 5-6 3-4 220 255 15.9 %
30s CHY 19.08 17.34 3.59 3.26 2756 2712 6.09 5.52 5-6 3-4 192 232 21.0 %
34s CHY 21.15 17.77 3.72 3.12 2620 2867 6.38 5.37 4-5 3.5-4.5 167 199 19.2 %
40s CHY 24.46 20.06 3.95 3.16 2603 2853 6.03 4.38 4-5 3-4 125 148 18.0 %
60s CHY 29.30 28.34 3.84 3.65 2321 2804 4.96 3.25 3-4 2.5-3.5 38 68 17.2 %
B
20s KWP 18.62 17.30 4.11 3.83 2470 2615 7.50 6.37 7-8 5.6 285 306 7.4 %
24s KHY 18.62 16.90 3.82 3.47 2311 2593 8.12 6.83 7-8 5.6 220 235 6.8 %
30s KHY 20.14 18.18 3.77 3.43 2214 2627 7.68 6.40 6-7 4.5 195 208 6.7 %
ITMA 2011, Barcelona, Spain
Bräcker, Graf, Novibra and Suessen will present their exhibits together – visit us in Hall 1, Booth 112 -117. Next to the well established products we will present very new products for the first time:
Bräcker:• RMS - ring monitoring system: • J 9.1 D and J 11.1 D steel traveller
for worsted spinning• True soft cot HA 63 A
Graf:• Hipro type card clothings• PRIMACOMB 9030
Novibra:• CROCOdoff – the new “yarncatch-
er spindle” for underwinding-free doffing
Suessen:• EliVAC-CDS• CPS – Cot Protecting System• SOLIDRING S43 3.6 – for man-
made fibre rotor spinning• PINSpacer NT – new generation
EliTe®CompactSet-L for the Chinese Market
Zhangjiagang Hualu Wool Spinning, quality spinner in Chinese Jiangsu province, P.R. of China, has ordered another 10 sets of EliTe®CompactSet-L on Shanghai Erfangji EJ519 after having 3 such sets from us since 2009. In-between Hualu tried of course also local com-petitor systems, obviously not fully meeting their great demands on yarn quality. For fine yarns in best quality Suessen EliTe®CompactSet-L is their favourite choice.
3723
SPINNOVATION No. 26
This is not only a slogan, but the com-pany policy and the philosophy of the Noman Group, Bangladesh.
The Noman Group of Companies has over 250,000 compact spindles, all SUESSEN EliTe®CompactSet. This makes Noman by far the largest com-pact spinner in Bangladesh – and one of the largest in the world!
I had the good fortune to meet Mr. Md. Nurul Islam, the founder and Chairman of the Noman Group for the first time on April 10, 2010 in his city office in Dhaka.
Mr. Islam is a very polite, soft spoken person, but you find out quickly that he has a very clear entrepreneurial vision – and the iron will and deter-mination to make his vision a reality! You also better be prepared to know the technical details of your product, he has – understandably! – no much patience for salespeople who do not know their products very well.
The story of the Noman Group is worth to be told, it shows what determination and hard work can achieve.
The Noman Group was established in 1968 by starting a trading company in Dhaka as its first venture of busi-ness. Beginning in 1975, the company turned into manufacturing textile products by the present Chairman, producing mosquito nets for domes-tic sale and for exports. Apparently, his product was better than compet-ing nets, the company flourished and grew larger..
Today the group operates six spin-ning mills (among some other mills in
TheNomanGroupofCompanies:“Qualitycomesfirst,restsareconsequences”
ByPeterStahlecker,ManagingDirectorSUESSEN
weaving, printing and dyeing, gar-menting):
• Yasmin Spinning Mills Ltd. - Spinning unit with 77,376 spindles
• Sufia Cotton Mills Ltd. - Spinning unit with 42,504 spindles
• Talha Spinning Mills Ltd. - Spinning unit with 54,888 spindles
• Zaber Spinning Mills Ltd. - Spinning unit with 78,608 spindles
• Zubair Spinning Mills Ltd. - Spinning unit with 72,576 spindles
• Ismail Spinning Mills Ltd. - Spinning unit with 70,848 spindles
In 2002, the first weaving mill, Saad-Saan Textile Mill, was started, more spinning and weaving mills followed year by year.
Today, the Noman Group can proudly present these figures:
• Ring Spinning: 396,800 spindles, producing around 135,000kg/day
• Rotor Spinning: 6,344 rotors, producing around 35,000 kg/day
• Weaving: 3,269 looms (Airjet, Rapier, Projectile, Jaquard) producing 500,000 meter/day
• Total employment: 40,000+ employees
The count ranges from 12’s to 100’s in ring, and 7’s to 30’s in rotor. They use CIS, Shankar 6, MCU-5, DCH-32, also US cotton, cotton from Pakistan and from Australia.
Other than 100% combed and carded yarns, they also produce P/C, T/C and CVC blends. About 90% of the yarn production is consumed internally, 10% sold in the market.
On 15th July, 2009 Mr. Islam ordered a very large number – in fact the larg-est single order for EliTe®CompactSet SUESSEN had ever received so far! – of SUESSEN EliTe®Compact conver-sion, after having thouroughly tried EliTe® as well as competing systems before.
Within this project SUESSEN installed the 3,000,000th EliTe®Compact Spindle in 2009 – this happening was paid tribute with a small event and a little present on the premises of our customer.
The installation went on smoothly, as the mills are very well organized and were highly supportive of our techni-cians.
EliTe® Regular EliTe® Regular EliTe® RegularyarncountinNe 30 30 30
code KC KC KC
TPI 20 23.6 20 19.76 20 22.7
CSP 2853 2524 2852 2274 2835 2691
U% 10.91 10.8 9.54 9.96 9.82 11.13
-50% 1 5.5 0.3 0.8 0.54 4
50% 164 181 39 57 57 78
200% 371 394 122 122 173 171
E% 4.5 3.69 3.87 3.48 3.93 -
H - 6.61 4.01 5.74 4.47 4.65
grpershift 197.6 150.0 197.6 186.1 194.2 156.0
increaseinproductionthroughEliTe®
31.70% 6.16% 24.48%
38
24SPINNOVATION No. 26
Contact:NomanGroup,BangladeshPhone:(+8802)7176207-8/Fax:(+8802)[email protected]/www.nomangroup.com
Md. Nurul Islam, Chairman and Founder of
the Noman Group
All of the EliTe®Yarn is used for their own weaving, where an increase in efficiency of over 5% could be achieved, according to the Chairman himself.
In a figurative sense, SUESSEN’s EliTe®CompactSet is merely the “pi-ano”, our customers are the piano players.
They soon learned to get the maxi-mum out of their investment in EliTe®, as the data below, provided by Noman prove. (See chart below)
Never to be content with what has been achieved, always trying to find new products is a hallmark of the Noman Group, guided by its Chairman.
Consequently, they tried elastic core yarn with EliCoreTwist® – and soon over 20 machines will be producing just than.
The plans for 2012 and 2013 have been finalized and are being imple-mented:
EliTe® Regular EliTe® Regular EliTe® Regular EliTe® Regular EliTe® RegularyarncountinNe 40 40 40 40 40
code CW CW KC KC CW
TPI 24.44 27.91 24.44 27.91 24.85 27.09 24.85 27.16 24.85 27.09
CSP 3304 2802 3230 2863 3198 2922 2802 2578 3651 3504
U% 8.87 8.98 8.68 8.89 8.77 9.04 10.79 11.85 8.97 8.88
-50% 0.5 0 0 0.8 0.3 0 3.4 16 1 0
50% 7.5 10.5 4.5 9 8 13 98 197 11 11
200% 64 71 65 69 47 47 398 493 58 53
E% 4.02 3.53 3.88 3.61 3.44 3.43 3.92 - 4.29 4.14
H 3.76 4.5 3.29 4.06 3.2 4.27 4.12 - 3.35 3.76
grpershift 133.2 104.4 133.2 104.4 137.9 111.9 124.1 100.9 137.9 108.2
increaseinproductionthroughEliTe®
27.63% 27.63% 23.18% 22.96% 27.50%
• a terry towel plant• a denim plant• more spinning and more weaving
capacity• a knitting mill.
It has been a great honour for every-body at SUESSEN, and for me person-ally, to be associated with this highly successful group!
39
SCMYSF1SF2SF3SF4
25
SPINNOVATION No. 2
EliTwistQ –Spinning of Two-Ply Weaving YarnsS. Kanthimathinathan,General Manager, Ramco Group Textile Division, India
Preamble
The weaving performance of warp
yarn in a loom depends on the state of
surface fibres. Fibres that are not
firmly attached to the yarn can be
abraded off the yarn easily. So,
untreated single yarns are not suitable
for direct use in weaving. To produce
satisfactory warp yarn, it is necessary
to improve the binding between the
surface fibres and the body of the
yarn. Hence, sizing is used in short
staples and two folding in long staple
fibres, but the yarn cost increases.
So, it has been the dream of the spin-
ners to produce such weavable yarns
at spinning itself. SIRO spinning was
one such method tried earlier to pro-
duce such type of yarn in spinning.
But, it has speed limitations especially
for short staple spinning and again the
production cost increases.With the
invention of EliTwistQ, the limitations in
the SIRO spinning are eliminated.
Our Experience
For the past six months, we have
started producing EliTwistQYarns,
which are sold under the brand name
of Ultima-Duo. It is a sort of co-work
between our customers and us for the
promotion of such yarns. With the aim
to replace existing doubled-yarns and
to find different types of applications,
we have been producing EliTwistQ
Yarns with different twist factors using
different varieties of cotton.
Quality of EliTwistQYarn and conven-
tional TFO (two-for-one) yarn
From the results in Table , we can
clearly understand the improvement in
most of the yarn properties for the
EliTwistQYarns. In hairiness, there is a
reduction of about .7 in absolute
value; yarn strength (RKM) has
increased by about 20% and elonga-
tion by 0%. Because of the reduction
in hairiness and improvement in
roundness, appreciable improvement
has been noticed in the fabric appear-
ance. However, because of the uni-
directional twist (i.e. S on S or Z on Z)
on both the components of EliTwistQ
Yarns, the fabric feel is little bit harsher
when compared to conventional
two-ply yarns.
This can be avoided by reducing the
twist factors. The trial results of the
impact of different twist factors on
the quality of yarn are presented in
Table 2. This trial was conducted on
EliTwistQYarns using ELS Cotton.
Table : EliTwistQYarns & Two-for-one (TFO) Yarn Quality
Count: 80/2 Conventional Yarns
(C.W. Û A.W. Û TFO
Û Rewinding)
EliTwistQYarns
U% 8.88 8.53
Total imperfections 5 9
Hairiness Index 5.70 4.02
RKM 9.5 23.34
Elongation 4.04 4.44
Yarn diameter 0.220 0.9
Yarn density (Compactness) 0.39 0.5
Yarn roundness 0.73 0.8
40
SCMYSF1SF2SF3SF4
26
SPINNOVATION No. 2
Yarn Evenness
8,5
8,9
8,4
8,5
8,6
8,7
8,8
8,9
9
U%
EliTwist®Yarn conventional tfo-yarn
IPI Imperfections
19
15
9
11
13
15
17
19
21
IPI
EliTwist®Yarn conventional tfo-yarn
Fuzziness
4,0
5,7
3
3,5
4
4,5
5
5,5
6
H
EliTwist®Yarn conventional tfo-yarn
Tensile Properties
23,3
19,5
18
19
20
21
22
23
24R
KM
EliTwist®Yarn conventional tfo-yarn
Yarn Elongation E%
4,4
4,0
3,9
4
4,1
4,2
4,3
4,4
4,5
E%
EliTwist®Yarn conventional tfo-yarn
Yarn Diameter
0,191
0,220
0,17
0,18
0,19
0,2
0,21
0,22
0,23
Dia
.
EliTwist®Yarn conventional tfo-yarn
Compactness
0,51
0,39
0
0,1
0,2
0,3
0,4
0,5
0,6
De
ns
ity
EliTwist®Yarn conventional tfo-yarn
Yarn Roundness
0,81
0,73
0,7
0,72
0,74
0,76
0,78
0,8
0,82
Sh
ap
e
EliTwist®Yarn conventional tfo-yarn
41
SCMYSF1SF2SF3SF4
27
SPINNOVATION No. 2
Contact: Ramco Group Textile Divisionwww.ramcotex.com / [email protected]
Table 2: Effect of Twist per Inch (TPI) on EliTwistQYarn Quality. Count: 80/2
TPI 5.8 6.52 7.76 9. 20.55
U% 8. 8.5 8. 8.09 8.07
Total Imperfection 3 2 0 2 0
Hairiness Index 4.28 3.98 3.77 3.49 3.33
RKM (g/tex) 22.8 25.26 25.46 26.42 27.
Elongation (%) 4.85 5.2 5.05 5.0 5.36
Table 3: Effect of Twist per Inch (TPI) on EliTwistQYarn Strength Count: 80/2
20.00
21.00
22.00
23.00
24.00
25.00
26.00
27.00
28.00
15.18 16.52 17.76 19.11 20.55
2.40 2.61 2.81 3.02 3.25
RK
M (
g/t
ex )
In U% and imperfections, there is no
change due to increase in TPI, whe-
reas hairiness gets reduced from 4.28
to 3.33, as the TPI increases from 5.0
to 20.55. Elongation is showing an
increasing trend from 4.85 to 5.36.
It can be noted from the results that
when we increase the TM factor from
2.4 to 2.6, there are steep increases
in yarn strength (i.e. 0%). Further
increase in twist factors only margi-
nally increases the strength. So, it can
be concluded that 2.6 twist factor is
the optimum one for this type of cot-
ton. With this reduced TPI, we have
significantly improved the fabric feel.
Productivity
Normally, with Indian long staple cot-
tons, we’ll obtain 45 grams/spindle/
shift of 8 hours for 80/ counts. For
these 80/2 Ultima-Duo yarns, we
could achieve 94 grams/spindle/shift
even at 500 rpm of spindle. This
obviously explains that the production
is more than two-fold, even with lesser
spindle speed. The higher productivity
is mainly because of lower twist fac-
tors.
In other words, for the same output of
doubled counts, we require half the
capacity of ring frame spindles besi-
des the complete elimination of TFO or
doubling machines. This is a huge cost
saving for the spinners as well as for
the weavers and knitters.
42
EliTwist® Conv. TFO Yarn EliTwist® Conv. TFO Yarn
TM/TPI– Single Yarn
TM/TPI– TFO Yarn 3.5 /22.2
3.6 /32.3 3.86 /24.4
4.11/23.9 4.26 /34.9 4.28 /24.8
Quality particulars Cones Imported Cotton Blend Mixing
TFO Cones Imported Cotton Blend Mixing
Cones Indian Cotton
TFO Cones Indian Cotton
Count 2/80 2/80 2/66 2/66
Count CV% 0,7 1.2 1.8 0.9
STH 124.4 98.9 114.5 101.9
CSP 4951 3996 3790 3403
B.Force (gms) 437.4 346.6 413.2 351.3
RKM 29.6 23.5 23.1 20.1
B.Force CV% 5.9 6.2 6.3 10.3
Strength CV% 3.2 3.8 4.5 4.2
Yarn CV% 10.1 10.7 7.8 8.3
Thin (-40%) 2 7 2 5
Thin (-50%) 0 0 0 0
Thick (+35%) 36 73 29 62
Thick (+50%) 3 4 5 4
Neps (+140%) 104 110 67 86
Neps (+200%) 24 15 13 8
Hairiness/Sh 1.8 /0.5 4.1/1.3 3.06 /0.64 4.6 /1.5
Elongation E% 7.0 5.3 6.9 5.3
Variation of Elongation V% 5.8 7.9 6.7 8.5
COMPARISON CHARTEliTwist®Yarn vs. ConventionalTwo-Ply Yarn (TFO Yarn)
43
SCMYSF1SF2SF3SF4
3
SPINNOVATION No. 22
EliTeQCompactSpinning System & TechnologyThe Gift of the 20th Century to the 2st
P.V. Chandran, Chairman/Managing Director, Ambika Cotton Mills Ltd., India
Type of manufacturing Conventional ring spun EliTeQCompact EliTeQCompact EliTeQCompact
Article name Ne 40/ combed,weaving
Ne 40/ combed,weaving
Ne 50/ combed,weaving
Ne 60/ combed,weaving
Count 40.3 40. 50. 60.2
U % 0.0 9.8 0.5 1.0
Total IPI 75 60 00 50
RKM 8.0 20.2 9.3 8.8
Elongation 5.0 5.4 4.53 4.34
Hairiness (H) 5.2 3.8 3.43 3.4
Ambika Cotton Mills Ltd.
The increasing demand of EliTeQCom-
pact Yarn and EliTwistQCompact Yarn
around the globe is clearly indicating
that the EliTeQCompact Spinning
System has become a success story.
In compact spinning the spreading of
fibres at the front roller pair of the
drafting system is minimized until the
spinning triangle is virtually elimi-
nated. Twist is imparted to a com-
pacted bundle of largely parallel
fibres. The technology of integrating all
the fibres of the drafted strand into the
yarn axis gives a tremendous impro-
vement to the yarn properties.
Some of our customers have switched
over to 00% compact yarn for their
application instead of conventional
ring spun yarns.
Spinners experience a whole range
of improvements, depending on the
use of the system – here our own
experiences:
. 30% reduction in end-breaks due
to higher yarn strength
2. 50% reduction in pneumafil waste
3. Clean department and less fly libe-
ration and hence clean yarn with
much less Classimat faults
4. Spinning potential of cotton is
improved: e.g. the cotton normally
suitable up to Ne 40/ in conven-
tional ring spinning can be used to
spin yarn counts up to Ne 60/
comfortably (see Chart below).
The quality of the yarn is much
superior to the conventional yarn
in terms of strength, hairiness,
evenness
5. For the same quality of conven-
tional yarn with the given raw mate-
rial it is possible to get much
higher production by reducing the
spinning twist multiplier by 0% in
compact spinning simultaneously.
44
SCMYSF1SF2SF3SF4
32
SPINNOVATION No. 22
6. Gassing may be eliminated. Singe-
ing processes help to reduce the
hairiness of yarn. This process
generally burns off 5 to 8% of the
finally produced yarn, which has
gone through the entire spinning
process. E.g. to produce 00 kg of
gassed yarn the required input is
05 to 08 kg. But with both, EliTeQ
Compact Spinning System and
EliTwistQCompact Spinning
System this wastage is eliminated.
Instrument evaluation has clearly
revealed that there is about 20 to 30%
reduction in Uster Hairiness (H) and
80% reduction in S3 value when mea-
sured on Zweigle Hairiness Tester.
Hence compact yarn may be used
directly without singeing (gassing) for
some applications.
Improvements in the knitted goods
manufacturing with EliTeQCompact
Yarns and EliTwistQCompact Yarns:
. Less fly and dust liberation during
knitting – due to less hairiness in
the yarn
2. Less end-breaks and defect-free
fabric production is possible
3. Unwaxed compact yarn can be
used directly in knitting
4. Less shrinkage of the fabric during
processing
5. Dimensional stability of the fabric
is much improved
45
SCMYSF1SF2SF3SF4
33
SPINNOVATION No. 22
6. Pilling tendency of the fabric is
improved due to the absence of
long hairs over 3 mm in length
7. Better fabric appearance due to
improved uniformity and low yarn
hairiness
8. Fabric is able to stand more
washes than made of conventional
yarn
9. Better realisation of raw material
(yarn) up to 2% due to reduction in
waste generation during washing,
processing, etc.
0. The selection of yarn count for a
given fabric weight has to be care-
fully evaluated with sufficient trials
in knitting due to decrease in yarn
diameter and improved yarn
density with better stability of yarn.
Advantages in weaving with
EliTeQCompact Yarns and
EliTwistQCompact Yarns:
. Compact yarn is a must for high-
speed airjet and shuttleless looms.
2. The fabric appearance has impro-
ved, better lustre and very good
sheen of the fabric is obtained.
3. In some applications with
EliTwistQYarn the fabric singeing
process is eliminated due to
improved surface coupled with
high pilling resistance of the fabric.
4. The busting and tearing strength of
the fabric made out of compact
yarn is higher and these fabrics
can be subjected to much harsher
treatment in further processing
depending on the application.
5. The reduction in diameter and high
strength of the yarn help to create
dense and light-weight fabrics of
new variety which is becoming
more popular these days.
6. Reduction in yarn diameter and
improvement in the roundness of
yarn have opened new avenues for
the fabric designers, and new qua-
lity articles are produced in fine
underwear and shirting sector.
7. Higher yarn strength, better elon-
gation and less hairiness of yarn
help to operate the looms at high
speed; loom efficiency improves
up to 0%.
In addition better working and
high efficiency is noticed in warp-
ing and sizing and in the entire
processing.
8. Improved yarn properties along
with a clean surface of the yarn
give less loom stoppages and the
fabric defects come down by 30 to
40% in yarn-dyed applications with
very good improvement in loom
efficiency.
9. Less pilling tendency and better
lustre improve the fabric appear-
ance.
0. For the same yarn strength of con-
ventional yarn the twist required in
compact spinning is less. The
fabric made of yarn spun with low
twist gives a better handle (soft-
ness) without any deterioration in
other fabric properties such as
tearing and bursting strength, etc.
. The dye pick-up and printing clar-
ity is very good due to the cleaner
surface of the fabric. In yarn-dyed
shirting this brilliant colour absorp-
tion is very well appreciated by its
user.
EliTeQCompact Spinning
System & Technology is the gift
of the 20th Century to the 2st,
which is providing better opportunity
for creative designers.
The conventional yarn will gradually
disappear from the market and com-
pact yarns will replace it, since this
technology is beneficial to spinners,
knitters, weavers and also to textile
machinery manufacturers.
Contact: M/S. Ambika Cotton Mills Ltd.5 A, Valluvar Street, Tatabad,Sivananda ColonyCoimbatore – 64 02 / IndiaFax: +9 422 2499623 E-Mail: [email protected]
46
Ring Spinning, still the most accept-able yarn spinning system, has un-dergone several changes to improve quality and productivity during these years. However, a major revolution-ary change has taken place in 1999, Compacting System.
Much has been said about this great system and the tremendous popula-tion growth speaks about its accept-ability and benefits. Today, more than 5 million compact spindles are work-ing satisfactorily with a major contri-bution from SUESSEN EliTe®.
Looking at the speed at which com-pact is conquering the textile spin-ning industry, it is clear that this is going to be a normal spinning sys-tem for tomorrow. The tremendous benefits of this system are being fully exploited both by yarn manufacturers as well as end users.
Compact spinning, the system that ensures better optimum utilisation of costly raw material with mini-mum loss and damages to the fibre, improves the yarn quality tremen-dously, more importantly on hairiness aspect.
This helps the weaver, besides less consumption of costly wet process-ing ingredients, with better machine efficiency particularly on looms and with a much cleaner atmosphere. Contribution of compact yarn in mak-ing dense fabrics is quite rewarding.
Yarn quality improvement in our count ranges, ie., Ne 30s to 120s, achieved over a period is summarised as under:
Hairiness: by Zweigle S3 value 60 to 80%, by Uster H 20 – 30%
Strength: improvement in RKM 10 – 18%
Elongation: improvement 10 – 15%
Unevenness: 0.3 to 0.6 reductions in U%
IPI: 20 – 35% reduction in Imperfections
Ring Frame Breaks: 40 – 50% reduction in ends down
Educating the end user to exploit the enormous advantages of this yarn need further efforts from both yarn and machine manufacturer. In this re-gard, contribution of SPINNOVATION is praiseworthy in educating the Spinner as well as the Weaver / Knitter in making use of the compact yarn most profitably.
We, at GTN group, installed the first SUESSEN EliTe®Ring Spinning Machine as early as 1999 with just 3,000 spindles and today we are at almost 80,000 spindles and by 1st quarter 2008, we will be completing 100,000 spindles. Counts ranging from Ne 30s to 120s are regularly manufactured, practically maintaining the same nor-mal Ring Frame speed, with far better yarn quality parameters.
The benefits accrued from this yarn were dealt with in greater details in most of the articles of SPINNOVATION or elsewhere. However, so far, the
phenomena of “cop to cone” com-pact yarn quality difference have not been delt with in any article of SPINNOVATION. Therefore an at-tempt is made here to share our own experience on the subject with our fine and superfine yarns.
Cop to cone increase in imperfec-tions.
Upon the introduction of automatic winders two decades ago, a signifi-cant increase in yarn imperfections and hairiness was noticed in the final yarn, especially in counts above Ne 50s. Counts like Ne 100s and Ne 120s, the increase in imperfections was as high as 80 - 120%. This phenomenon of abnormal increase in imperfec-tions was taken up with manufactur-ers of automatic winders as well as lab equipment manufacturers and several trials were conducted over these years. In spite of the best ef-forts by the manufacturers of auto-matic winders, no substantial reduc-tion could be achieved till now.
But, with the compact yarn, the adverse effect on the yarn quality after the winding process was found significantly reduced. For a spinner like us, who is marketing yarn in the cone form, it was a great relief. This advantage is accrued only due to the substantially lower hairiness in the parent compact cop yarns. In table 1 we have summarised the yarn dete-rioration in quality of both compact and normal yarns after cone winding.
As can be seen, there is a signifi-cant reduction in IPI increase in the Compact Yarn in all the counts com-
COMPACT SPINNING ‒ Innovation of 21st CenturyBy V.N.Balakrishnan, Senior Vice President Operations, GTN Textiles Ltd./India
47
pared to normal yarn, without any ex-ception. However as far as hairiness is concerned, the increase in Zweigle S3 values is much higher than normal spun yarn; however the same trend is not noticed in UT3 Hairiness values. Of course the S3 value of compact cone yarn is still lower by 50% of nor-mal cone yarn.
The data used in table 1 is the overall average of the yarn quality tested at Ring Frame Bobbin stage and cone
from the Autoconer for a period of two years.
EliTwist®Technology
We have added small capacity of EliTwist®Spindles and commercial production started recently in super fine counts and yarn is marketed un-der the brand “WONDERTWIST”.
Initially, the customers were hesitant to use this new concept yarn and
Contact:M/s GTN Textiles LimitedCOCHIN 682 016E-mail : [email protected]: www.gtntextiles.com
have been informing that the real “doubled yarn effect” is not achieved in final finished fabric with this yarn. However later on, a few of them, re-alizing the price/ performance advan-tage, started consuming. Here again, education of end users to exploit the maximum advantage of this yarn, to be undertaken by both yarn and m/c manufacturer. As far as a spinner is concerned, the elimination of assem-bly winder and double yarn twisting, result in saving in investment, power,
Count (Ne)U%
increase (unit)
IPI Increase %
RKM diff%Elongation
diff%UT-3 H
increase%Zweigle S3 increase%
50/1 combed weaving (compact) +0.1 20 0.0 +2.0 +17.7 +457
50/1 combed weaving (normal) +0.7 50 +0.7 +2.7 +15.0 +88
60/1 combed weaving (compact) +0.1 22 -1.9 0.0 +8.9 +377
60/1 combed weaving (normal) +0.5 62 +0.4 0.0 +16.4 +79
70/1 combed weaving (compact) 0.0 24 +2.7 +5.1 +7.7 +380
70/1 combed weaving (normal) +0.3 65 -1.1 +4.5 +25 +140
80/1 combed weaving (compact) +0.1 22 +0.7 0.0 +23.6 +896
80/1 combed weaving (normal) +0.4 62 -0.4 +4.9 +17.7 +84
100/1 combed hosiery (compact) +0.1 25 +1.8 +3.3 +7.5 +208
100/1 combed hosiery (normal) +0.5 82 -0.8 +2.0 +16.7 +77
Overall average of Compact yarn +0.1 23 +0.8 +2.0 +13.0 +463
Overall average of normal ring spun yarn +0.5 64 -1.2 +2.8 +18.2 +94
Count (Ne)U%
increase (unit)
IPI Increase% RKM diff%Elongation
diff%UT-3 H
increase%Zweigle S3 increase%
80/2 combed weaving wondertwist -0.1 17 2.2 1.8 3.4 319
100/2 combed weaving wondertwist -0.1 15 2.2 5.0 4.8 350
Overall average of wondertwist -0.1 16 2.2 3.4 4.1 335
Table No.2: Summary of difference in yarn quality parameters of various compact wondertwist yarn counts after winding (cop to cone)
Table 1: Summary of difference in yarn quality parameters of various compact/normal yarn counts after winding
48
labour, space etc. the end user is also benefited by lower yarn price with well acclaimed advantages of com-pact yarn. EliTwist® cop to cone dif-ference in yarn quality, as done with single EliTe®Yarn, is summarized in table 2.
The above results are limited in scope; also a strict comparison of cop to cone, as done earlier, could not be done, as the process involved here is different and not identical.
Despite the increase in S3 hairiness being high, the hairiness level of this yarn is far lower than RING DOUBLED AND TFO twisted yarns- thanks to compacting!
Count (Ne)80/2 CW-WT
(TM-4.0)80/2 CWR (TM-4.0)
80/2 CWFG (TM-4.0)
% diff w.r.t. % diff w.r.t.
Remarks Wondertwist yarnNormal
doubled yarnNormal
gassed yarnNormal
doubled yarnNormal
gassed yarn
UTJ Results:
Single yarn strength (cN) 477.3 425.6 464.9
Rkm 33.0 29.4 32.1 +12.2 +2.8
Rkm CV% 6.6 7.1 7.2
Elongation% 5.7 5.1 5.2 +11.8 +9.6
Elongation CV% 5.7 8.7 6.4
B-work(cN.cm) 714.8 591.2 643.8 +20.9 +11.0
UT-3B Results:
U% 8.4 8.5 8.3 -0.1 unit +0.1 unit
Thin places (-50%)/km 0 0 0
Thick places (+50%)/km 6 3 3 +100 +100
Neps (+200%)/km 19 13 10 +46 +90
IPI/km (Normal sen.) 25 16 13 +56.2 +92
Thin places (-40%)/km 8 7 5
Thick places (+35%/km 51 53 47
Neps (+140%)/km 79 101 75
IPI/km (Higher sen.) 138 161 127 -14 +8
Hairiness H 3.1 4.9 2.6 -36.7 +19.2
Hairiness sh 0.6 1.0 0.5
Classimat results:
Total classimat faults 95.0 51.0 50.0 +86.3 +90
Objectionable faults 1.2 0.1 0.0
Slub 1.4 0.1 0.0
Zweigle Results:
S3 383.2 544.8 43.1 -29.7 +800
S3 CV% 16.5 34.6 39
Table 3
49
The tables 3 and 4 show the dif-ference in yarn qualities with re-spect to traditional doubled yarn and gassed yarn.From these limited comparative studies, the superior-ity of EliTwist®Yarn with respect to RKM and elongation is well proved.
Hairiness, obviously, is lower in EliTwist®Yarn compared to twisted grey yarn. However, gassed yarn hairiness is definitely lower than the EliTwist®Yarn. Similarly Classimat faults are also high in EliTwist®Yarn.
However, looking to the greater scope of this system and resultant yarn, we are of the opinion that this yarn can replace conventional dou-bled yarn in certain sectors of end use.
Count (Ne)100/2 CW-WT
(TM-4.0)100/2 CWR
(TM-4.0)100/2 CWFG
(TM-4.0)% diff w.r.t. % diff w.r.t.
Remarks Wondertwist yarnNormal
doubled yarnNormal
gassed yarnNormal
doubled yarnNormal
gassed yarn
UTJ Results:
Single yarn strength (cN) 374.7 319.9 347.5
Rkm 32.4 27.6 30.0 +17.4 +8.0
Rkm CV% 7.7 7.8 8.1
Elongation% 5.6 4.9 4.8 +14.3 +16.7
Elongation CV% 6.0 7.2 7.6
B-work (cN.cm) 578.4 269.3 475.8
UT-3B Results:
U% 9.1 9.6 9.2 -0.5 unit -0.1 unit
Thin places (-50%)/km 1 0 0
Thick places (+50%)/km 12 8 7
Neps (+200%)/km 46 42 26
IPI/km (Normal sen.) 59 50 33 +18 +78
Thin places (-40%)/km 8 7 5
Thick places (+35%)/km 95 79 101
Neps (+140%)/km 164 140 161
IPI/km (Higher sen.) 290 242 294
Hairiness H 2.6 3.0 2.4 -13 +8
Hairiness sh 0.5 0.7 0.5
Classimat results:
Total classimat faults 161 50.0 63.0 +222 +155
Objectionable faults 2.0 0.2 0.1
Slub 2.2 0.0 0.1
Zweigle Results:
S3 266.6 1195.0 22.9 -78 +1056
S3 CV% 22.0 14.1 39.8
Table 4
50 25
SPINNOVATION No. 24
The spinner earlier has always been
perplexed with the simple ques-
tion whether he was over-spinning,
or under-spinning1 with the cotton
provided to him. He was always asking
himself as a sensitive spinner whether
he was doing justice to the cotton while
he was spinning a yarn count – in terms
of cost effectiveness, productivity, qual-
ity and sales revenue.
Cotton being a natural fibre has a
considerable variation in its properties
even in the same category – which is
known to all. The spinner as a team
leader had to optimize his process to
get the best yarn from his cotton, but
the question: “Well, am I doing this
right?” always was coming to his mind.
He had been in search all the time of
a key process answering this highly
important question.
Ring spinning as the most acceptable
yarn spinning system has seen several
changes to improve quality and produc-
tivity within the course of time but the
changes so far could not satisfy the
spinner’s needs.
The revolutionary change came in
1999/2000 when SUESSEN and oth-
ers introduced their compact spinning
systems globally; the full exploitation of
cotton fibre in terms of quality, produc-
tivity, end breakage rate became pos-
sible and gave relief to the spinner.
Compact spinning (the system ensures
optimum utilization of costly raw mate-
rial with minimum loss and damage
to the fibre) improves the yarn quality
tremendously, most importantly on the
hairiness aspect.
We introduced SUESSEN’s
EliTe®Compact Spinning System
in 2004, converting 2 ring frames
and in due course of time, realizing
the advantages of the system and
the market acceptability of the yarn
and end product, we ordered for
total capacity for EliTe®CompactSet
and EliTwist®CompactSet on
35,000 spindles.
The yarn results achieved with
SUESSEN EliTe®Compact Yarn Ne
50/1 and Ne 40/1 compared to normal
spun combed yarn of same counts are
as tabulated in table No. 1.
The results achieved with SUESSEN
EliTwist®Compact Yarn Ne 40/2 com-
pared to normal TFO yarn Ne 40/2 are
as per table 2.
These tables speak about the superior
quality achieved with compact yarn
and EliTwist® Yarn and apart from this
quality improvement there is gain in
Experience with EliTe® and EliTwist®CompactSet –A Practical Assessment Arun Nijhawan, General Manager, Nahar Industrial Enterprises, India
Table 1 (Cone Stage)
Count (Ne) 50/1 CW EliTe® 50/1 CW normal 40/1 CW EliTe® 40/1 CW normal
Count 50.14 50.12 40.10 40.12
Count CV% 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.24
CSP 3265 2985 3350 2925
U% 10.85 11.02 9.65 10.12
Thin places (–50%)/km 4 9 0 1
Thick places (+50%)/km 25 34 15 20
Neps (+200%)/km 61 110 40 63
Total IPI 90 125 55 84
Hairiness H 3.48 5.12 3.9 5.23
RKM 20.84 18.78 20.24 18.6
RKM CV% 6.14 6.95 – –
Elongation E 4.95 4.4 4.75 3.98
S3 231 920 475 1350
26
SPINNOVATION No. 24
production in ring frame by applying
optimum twist multiplier for a particular
cotton, say: even with a twist multiplier
of 3.5 one is able to spin the yarn.
Compared to TFO yarn, there are
considerable savings when producing
EliTwist®: As assembly winding and the
TFO process are eliminated, the cost
of power and labor associated with
these processes is eliminated. Also
the production rate of the ring spinning
process is more than double.
We are marketing a very popular brand
of garments. The compact yarn has
enhanced the brand value of the prod-
uct because of its excellent contribution
to the fabric structure in terms of
extra smoothness on fabric surface
resistance against abrasion and
pilling
dense fabric
superior draping characteristics
lustrous appearance of fabric
because of excellent dye pick-up.
We have replaced classical T.F.O.
double yarn in certain market clusters
with EliTwist® Yarn completely. In some
other markets the EliTwist® Yarn has
replaced the requirement of gassed
hosiery yarn.
We find SUESSEN EliTe® and
EliTwist®Systems very user friendly,
easy to maintain and consistent viz-a-
viz certain other compacting systems
available in the market. Though rarely
needed, SUESSEN Service Teams
stand by the mill for quick help with
queries and problems.
The added advantages we find with
compact spinning systems is a clean
atmosphere in department, better yarn
realization because of less invisible
loss, increased workers’ job satisfaction
due to less fatigue while maintaining
negligible end breakage rate in ring
frame and a sense of mental satisfac-
tion having worked with a sophisticated
instrument.
Of course, nonetheless, we feel a
continuous training to the technicians,
workmen, and laboratory personnel
is necessary to get best results from
the system and for this a joint venture
from SUESSEN and mills manage-
ment is the demand of the time and the
endeavor should continue.
1 Under-spinning: Using too good a cotton
for a given yarn count
Over-spinning: The opposite.
Contact: Nahar Industrial Enterprises Ludhiana – 141003, Punjab, India E-Mail: [email protected] Web: www.owmnahar.com
Fig. 2Fig. 1
Table 2 (Cone Stage)
Count (Ne) 40/2 CW EliTwist® 40/2CW T.F.O.
Count 20.10 20.14
Count CV% 1.2 1.24
CSP 3634 2825
U% 7.04 7.62
Thin places (–50%)/km 0 0
Thick places (+50%)/km 3 2
Neps (+200%)/km 4 8
Total IPI 7 10
Hairiness H 4.56 7.13
RKM 21.02 18.50
Elongation E 5.96 4.08
S3 319 845
5125
SPINNOVATION No. 24
The spinner earlier has always been
perplexed with the simple ques-
tion whether he was over-spinning,
or under-spinning1 with the cotton
provided to him. He was always asking
himself as a sensitive spinner whether
he was doing justice to the cotton while
he was spinning a yarn count – in terms
of cost effectiveness, productivity, qual-
ity and sales revenue.
Cotton being a natural fibre has a
considerable variation in its properties
even in the same category – which is
known to all. The spinner as a team
leader had to optimize his process to
get the best yarn from his cotton, but
the question: “Well, am I doing this
right?” always was coming to his mind.
He had been in search all the time of
a key process answering this highly
important question.
Ring spinning as the most acceptable
yarn spinning system has seen several
changes to improve quality and produc-
tivity within the course of time but the
changes so far could not satisfy the
spinner’s needs.
The revolutionary change came in
1999/2000 when SUESSEN and oth-
ers introduced their compact spinning
systems globally; the full exploitation of
cotton fibre in terms of quality, produc-
tivity, end breakage rate became pos-
sible and gave relief to the spinner.
Compact spinning (the system ensures
optimum utilization of costly raw mate-
rial with minimum loss and damage
to the fibre) improves the yarn quality
tremendously, most importantly on the
hairiness aspect.
We introduced SUESSEN’s
EliTe®Compact Spinning System
in 2004, converting 2 ring frames
and in due course of time, realizing
the advantages of the system and
the market acceptability of the yarn
and end product, we ordered for
total capacity for EliTe®CompactSet
and EliTwist®CompactSet on
35,000 spindles.
The yarn results achieved with
SUESSEN EliTe®Compact Yarn Ne
50/1 and Ne 40/1 compared to normal
spun combed yarn of same counts are
as tabulated in table No. 1.
The results achieved with SUESSEN
EliTwist®Compact Yarn Ne 40/2 com-
pared to normal TFO yarn Ne 40/2 are
as per table 2.
These tables speak about the superior
quality achieved with compact yarn
and EliTwist® Yarn and apart from this
quality improvement there is gain in
Experience with EliTe® and EliTwist®CompactSet –A Practical Assessment Arun Nijhawan, General Manager, Nahar Industrial Enterprises, India
Table 1 (Cone Stage)
Count (Ne) 50/1 CW EliTe® 50/1 CW normal 40/1 CW EliTe® 40/1 CW normal
Count 50.14 50.12 40.10 40.12
Count CV% 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.24
CSP 3265 2985 3350 2925
U% 10.85 11.02 9.65 10.12
Thin places (–50%)/km 4 9 0 1
Thick places (+50%)/km 25 34 15 20
Neps (+200%)/km 61 110 40 63
Total IPI 90 125 55 84
Hairiness H 3.48 5.12 3.9 5.23
RKM 20.84 18.78 20.24 18.6
RKM CV% 6.14 6.95 – –
Elongation E 4.95 4.4 4.75 3.98
S3 231 920 475 1350
26
SPINNOVATION No. 24
production in ring frame by applying
optimum twist multiplier for a particular
cotton, say: even with a twist multiplier
of 3.5 one is able to spin the yarn.
Compared to TFO yarn, there are
considerable savings when producing
EliTwist®: As assembly winding and the
TFO process are eliminated, the cost
of power and labor associated with
these processes is eliminated. Also
the production rate of the ring spinning
process is more than double.
We are marketing a very popular brand
of garments. The compact yarn has
enhanced the brand value of the prod-
uct because of its excellent contribution
to the fabric structure in terms of
extra smoothness on fabric surface
resistance against abrasion and
pilling
dense fabric
superior draping characteristics
lustrous appearance of fabric
because of excellent dye pick-up.
We have replaced classical T.F.O.
double yarn in certain market clusters
with EliTwist® Yarn completely. In some
other markets the EliTwist® Yarn has
replaced the requirement of gassed
hosiery yarn.
We find SUESSEN EliTe® and
EliTwist®Systems very user friendly,
easy to maintain and consistent viz-a-
viz certain other compacting systems
available in the market. Though rarely
needed, SUESSEN Service Teams
stand by the mill for quick help with
queries and problems.
The added advantages we find with
compact spinning systems is a clean
atmosphere in department, better yarn
realization because of less invisible
loss, increased workers’ job satisfaction
due to less fatigue while maintaining
negligible end breakage rate in ring
frame and a sense of mental satisfac-
tion having worked with a sophisticated
instrument.
Of course, nonetheless, we feel a
continuous training to the technicians,
workmen, and laboratory personnel
is necessary to get best results from
the system and for this a joint venture
from SUESSEN and mills manage-
ment is the demand of the time and the
endeavor should continue.
1 Under-spinning: Using too good a cotton
for a given yarn count
Over-spinning: The opposite.
Contact: Nahar Industrial Enterprises Ludhiana – 141003, Punjab, India E-Mail: [email protected] Web: www.owmnahar.com
Fig. 2Fig. 1
Table 2 (Cone Stage)
Count (Ne) 40/2 CW EliTwist® 40/2CW T.F.O.
Count 20.10 20.14
Count CV% 1.2 1.24
CSP 3634 2825
U% 7.04 7.62
Thin places (–50%)/km 0 0
Thick places (+50%)/km 3 2
Neps (+200%)/km 4 8
Total IPI 7 10
Hairiness H 4.56 7.13
RKM 21.02 18.50
Elongation E 5.96 4.08
S3 319 845
Spindelfabrik Suessen GmbHDonzdorfer Straße 473079 SüssenGermanyPhone +49 7162 15-0Fax +49 7162 [email protected]
Agent in India: Venus Textile Systems PVT LTD:Coimbatore: Mr. Mathew Jose • ph +91 422 244 7746 • fx +91 422 245 7489 • e-mail: [email protected]: Mr. K.C. Oberoi • ph +91 11 4704 9108 • fx +91 11 4704 9109 • e-mail: [email protected]: Mr. A.K. Kakkar • ph +91 20 2680 3850 • fx +91 20 4005 4750 • e-mail: [email protected]
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