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Backyard Composting
Presented by: Barb Webb Master Gardener, Master Recycler/Composter Dakota County Fair - August 11, 2015
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MASTER GARDENERS IN DAKOTA COUNTY
Mission: Educate and assist the public by answering
questions and solving problems about horticulture and related environmental topics.
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MASTER GARDENERS IN DAKOTA COUNTY
What We Do: Extension Master Gardeners use up-to-date University information to provide education and horticulture resources by Teaching classes to youth and adults Speaking to groups Participating at community events and projects Writing articles Conducting research Answering online and telephone questions Partnering with other state and county organizations
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OVERVIEW What is composting and why do it? Types of composting How to compost successfully Troubleshooting Recap and questions
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WHAT IS COMPOSTING?
Composting is the process where organic wastes are converted into a highly desirable, organic, soil-like material. Finished compost is a dark, crumbly substance with an earthy odor.
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WHY COMPOST? Healthy soil:
Compost is an inexpensive soil amendment that supplies nutrients and organic matter Improves soil structure and water holding capacity
Reduces landfill:
According to the EPA, home composting can divert 700 lb. of waste per household per year from municipal waste. This includes both yard waste (nearly 17% of municipal solid waste is yard waste) and food scraps (approx. 6.7% of solid waste is from food scraps).
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TYPES OF COMPOSTING
Outdoor backyard composting Indoor worm composting * Demo at 3pm
Not being covered in this demonstration
– Municipal large scale composting – Aerobic and Anaerobic composting
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RECIPE FOR SUCCESSFUL COMPOSTING
Need a habitat (site and bin type) Balance of brown and
green organics Moisture Air
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FIND A SITE
City rules Neighbors Convenience Slightly protected Access to water Well-drained soil
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CHOOSING A BIN
Unenclosed usually not allowed in Urban settings because they can become unsightly
Choose bin approx 3-5’ in each direction (square or round)
Smaller than this tend not to develop enough heat Larger than this and air and water are not as able
to penetrate Need approximately 1 cubic yard of waste to
generate proper temp (130-150 F)
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BUY A BIN…
Basic bin
Roller
Tumbler
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OR BUILD A BIN…
Chicken wire Wood/pallet Multi-bin wood
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OTHER IDEAS…
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WHAT DO YOU PUT IN YOUR BIN?
Yard & paper (Carbon)
3 Brown
Food scraps (Nitrogen)
1 Green
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CARBON (BROWN) 3/4 Leaves, nut shells and pinecones Dryer lint Hay, straw, wood chips, sawdust Clean paper and paperboard (cereal boxes,
paper plates, etc), newspaper Wood ash (not from processed charcoal) Paper towel or tissues (unless they contain toxic
cleaners)
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TIPS
Shred or break into small pieces (less than 2”) Do not use products from treated wood or coal Will decompose faster if bin is full Try to maintain 3:1 ratio of Browns to Greens
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NITROGEN (GREEN) 1/4
Fruits and veggie scraps Coffee grounds and filters Tea leaves and tea bags Green yard plants
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NITROGEN (GREEN) 1/4 Remember! Can add grass clippings but make sure they are
not chemically treated. Let grass dry out before adding to compost. Don’t add diseased or insect infested plants Don’t include weeds with seeds
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WHAT ABOUT…?
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NEVER IN BACKYARD COMPOSTER
Meat and bones Dairy Fats: oils, mayo Pet or human waste Black walnut debris
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SIZE MATTERS • Chop or shred compost materials to ensure
fast decomposition Remember, size of thumb or postage stamp is
best. Larger will decompose, just slower (don’t want larger than 2 inches). Mow tree leaves before raking Larger coarser materials will decompose faster
if placed on the bottom
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MORE TIPS • Carbon or brown layer should be the top and
bottom (to moderate odors) • Soil can be added as a source of microbes,
but is not essential. Surfaces of compostable materials generally have adequate microbes.
• Commercial compost ‘starter’ is not necessary
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MORE TIPS • Limestone can be added to reduce acidity in
the compost pile but is not necessary in most conditions because acidity will drop over time.
• Can be used for pine needles, fruit wastes, and anaerobic decomposition to neutralize acids.
• Apply 1 cup limestone per 25 sq ft for every 8-9” layer.
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HEAT To kill seeds and pathogens: 130 – 150° F 3 – 15 days
Space: 3 - 5 cu. feet pile Oxygen/frequent turns
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TIME
Hot phase Cool phase Finished compost
1 – 3 weeks 3 weeks – 4 months 4 – 9 months +
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TIME (THE REALITY) Well-managed and correctly prepared pile: 4-9 months (doesn’t include winter) Unattended and poorly prepared May take 1-3 years (doesn’t include
winter) Sorry… Outdoor piles prepared in fall will not be ready in the spring
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USE YOUR SENSES Good compost: Touch:
should feel moist (damp not wet) as a wrung out sponge
Smell: should smell earthy not stinky
Look: some bugs ok no rodents pile should shrink over time
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HARVESTING Ready when:
– Rich, dark brown color – Smells earthy – Soft and crumbly – Won’t heat up anymore – No sign of original materials
Sift with screen – ½ inch hardware cloth – Return large bits to pile
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USING COMPOST
Add to soil Potting mixes Mulch
Mixes: 50% compost or
less!
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TROUBLESHOOTING No heat Slow composting Smells bad Wildlife Tomatoes
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LET’S REVIEW
Turn pile
Organics
Rain
Air Vents
1. Create habitat (bin) 2. 3 browns: 1 green 3. Manage water 4. Add air: Turn pile 5. Harvest, sift, enjoy!
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QUESTIONS?
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RESOURCES University of Minnesota Extension Yard and Garden http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/yard-garden/index.html
*Free publication called Composting and Mulching: A Guide to Managing Organic Yard Wastes.
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RESOURCES Master Gardeners in Dakota County www.dakotamastergardeners.org Minnesota Department of Agriculture: http://www.mda.state.mn.us/protecting/sustainable/mfo/mfo-diversification/composting.aspx Minnesota Pollution Control Agency: http://www.pca.state.mn.us/index.php/living-green/living-green-citizen/composting/list.html RethinkRecycling.com Residents’ Guide to Composting