J. Home Econ. Jpn. Vol. 52 No. 3 251-264 (2001)
Fabric Mechanical Parameters Related to the Beauty of
Fabric Movement of Ladies' Garments Brought
about by Human Motion
Masae NAKANISHI and Masako NIWA*
Department of Home Economics, Kobe Women's University, Kobe 654-8585, Japan*
Nara Women's University, Nara 630-8506, Japan
This paper deals with the effect of fabric mechanical parameters on the beauty of fabric movement
of a one-piece dress TAV (total appearance value). A total of 40 female students evaluated the TAV of
randomly-changed loose-fitting dresses on a movable mannequin that simulated walking conditions.
The dresses were one-piece dresses made from 25 kinds of fabric. The mechanical properties of the
fabrics were measured with the KES-FB system under a set of standardized conditions for ladies' thin
dress fabrics. In order to correlate the TAV with the fabric mechanical properties more closely, we
thought that the measurement conditions should be reconsidered to be near the force levels applied to
the fabric of a one-piece dress during a walking condition. Therefore, we also made a trial tester based
on a KES-Labo model to measure the tensile and shear properties. Using this tester, we measured the
tensile property under a lower tensile force than the standardized condition for a KES-FB1, as well as
the shear property in smaller shear deformations under smaller tension applied to the edge of a fabric
specimen that is almost the same level as the fabric weight of a dress. The contributions to the TAV
made by the basic mechanical properties of fabrics, as well as by parameters derived from the basic
mechanical parameters related to clothing appearance, were investigated using multiple regression
analysis. The results show that the tensile property is closely related to the TAV, although the bending
and shearing properties have been mainly discussed in previous research on the beauty of movement
of ladies' dresses. The findings obtained in this study could be applied as a set of basic data for the
selection of fabric materials for making dresses as the designer intended, for the development of new
materials, and so on.
(Received March 31, 2000; Accepted in revised form December 15, 2000)
Keywords: fabric mechanical properties, tensile property, bending property, shearing property, fabric
movement, one-piece dress.
INTRODUCTION
With fabric hand and wearing comfort, the beauty
of the appearance of clothing is one of the most
important factors determining the quality of gar-
ments. This includes the color, pattern and texture of
a fabric surface, the fitness of a garment to the
wearer's body shape, tailoring technique, and the
beautifully-styled silhouette. In addition, especially for
ladies' clothing, the dynamic silhouette of a garment
or fabric's swaying, caused by the wearer's motion or
the wind, also affects the beauty of the appearance of
the clothing. The first prerequisite in making a
garment with a desired silhouette design is that the
fabric used to make it has suitable mechanical
properties for the design. Assuming that ladies'
garments are classified into one of three main groups-tailored , hari (anti-drape), and drape- the authorshave already introduced a method of objectively discriminating the optimum silhouette type of ladies'
garments based on fabric mechanical properties,1) by applying canonical discriminant analysis. Another objective of the method's development is its use in the
quality assessment of ladies' dress fabrics including the beauty of the appearance of clothing, because the classification of fabrics reduces difficulties in fabric
quality assessment. Howcvcr, this method is only for the first stage classification in deciding an optimum silhouette design to achieve a beautiful dress. As
previous research focused on only static silhouettes, it has not been proven if a dress designed based on that method gives a beautiful impression under dynamic
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conditions, with the wearer in motion. There are some
papers that deal with the relation between the beauty of the dynamic silhouette of skirts and fabric
properties such as bending and shearing.2)-5) In these studies, either subjective evaluation tests of the dynamic silhouette were conducted using a small number of fabric samples, or the accuracy of the
prediction equation obtained from the experiments was not verified well. Also, the validity of the measurement conditions of the mechanical properties
related to the beauty of the dynamic silhouette was not clear. Therefore, the contribution of the fabric mechanical properties to the beauty of a dynamic
silhouette remains obscure. That is why we planned the following study of a dynamic silhouette.
A total of twenty-five fabric samples are carefully
selected for a wide variety of fabric mechanical
properties related to the silhouette of clothing. One-piece dresses are made from these fabric
samples using the same pattern. A sensory test to evaluate the beauty of the movement of a one-piece dress is conducted by putting a one-piece dress on a movable mannequin to simulate a walking human. First, we conduct a further investigation of the
measurements of fabric mechanical properties that include the tensile and shearing properties under lower load conditions, considering the movement of
garment fabrics due to the wearer's motion. Then, we clarify the contribution of the fabric mechanical
properties related to the dynamic silhouette and develop an objective evaluation method of the beauty of fabric dynamic movement, which is one of the essential performance aspects of high quality cloth-
ing, in order to obtain the basic data for use in the
selection of suitable fabrics.
METHODS
One-piece dresses used in the experiment
The construction of the experimental one-piece dresses was decided to be a very simple style, adding fullness in order to emphasize the fabric's dynamic
movement. The dress patterns we used to make the one-piece dresses are shown in Fig. 1. There are no seams, except the side seams, to minimize the effect
of the seams. The sizes of the patterns are such that
the circumference of the bust line is 104 cm, the circumference of the hemline is 156 cm and the dress length at the center back is 90 cm. The mannequin which was used for the subjective evaluation test with
one of the one-piece dresses was 81 cm at the bust, 58 cm at the waist, and 84 cm at the hip.
A method to discriminate the optimum silhouette design -tailored, hari and drape- based on the first and second canonical variables Z1 and Z2 which were derived as the functions of fabric parameters such as
fabric weight, tensile, shear, and bending properties,1) was used for the selection of the fabric samples for this study. Tailored-type garments are made to fit
smoothly to the curves of the body through the use of darts and overfeed. Hari and drape type garments have a loose fit; gathers, tucks, flare and other
techniques are used to create clothing in which the fabric area is much larger than the surface area of the body. There are, however, major differences
between these two silhouette types. The hari type uses spacing between the body and garment to emphasize the shape of the garment formed by
horizontal projections, and the drape type emphasizes the beauty of a smooth drape formed in the vertical direction by the weight of the supple fabric itself.
Using this method, fabrics are classified into one of the three groups according to the position of the (Z1, Z2) on the Z1-Z2 plot, in which the center of each
group and discriminant boundary line are marked so that the suitable silhouette type for fabrics may be
easily found, as shown in Fig. 2. As the fabric swaying caused by the wearer's motion does not stand out for the tailored silhouette garments, we omitted fabrics
that were determined to be suitable for typical tailored-type garments. That is, we omitted fabrics
plotted near the center of the tailored group and adopted fabrics plotted in the hari and drape zones to cover as wide an area of groups as possible. The (Z1, Z2) of the 25 samples we used for the experiment are
Fig. 1. The patterns for making the one-piece
dresses used in the visual evaluation tests
The dresses were made from the different types of fabrics
listed in Table 1.
26 (252)
Fabric Mechanical Parameters Related to the Beauty of Fabric Movement of Ladies' Garments
plotted in Fig. 2. In Figs. 2 and 3, three different plot symbols are used properly according to the results of the subjective evaluation test for the beauty of the
fabric movement of a one-piece dress, which will be described later in this paper.
Each of the fabric's basic mechanical parameters for the samples was transformed into a normalized
value using the average and standard deviation of the samples used for the discriminant analysis. The values are plotted in Fig. 3 with the distribution of the
mechanical parameters for fabrics that fall within the tailored, hari and drape type silhouette groups. It can
be seen that the range of parameters of the fabrics used for our experiment covers a wide area of the hari and drape zones.
Table 1 shows the details of the fabric samples used
for this study. The samples include not only traditional fabrics using cotton, wool, silk, linen,
polyester, and blends of these, but also recently developed fabrics using fibers of new regenerated cellulose like Tencel, and specialized polyesters like
Shingosen. The fabric samples include a wide variety of fiber types, weave constructions and yarn con-structions. The fabric weight per unit area ranges from 60 to 220 g/m2, and the fabric thickness ranges
from 0.21 to 0.67 mm. The effect of color, pattern and texture of the fabric surface on the subjective evaluation of the beauty of fabric movement may be
possible, more or less; however, such surface
characteristics of the fabric samples were not unified
in this study. Both plain and patterned fabrics with
varied colors are included in the fabric sample group,
but fabrics with large patterns or prominent textures
are excluded.
Measurement of fabric mechanical properties
1. KES-FB system method
Tensile property was measured under a set of "high
sensitivity" conditions which is used for the measure-
ments of ladies' thin dress fabrics, and the shearing
and bending properties were measured under a set of"
standard" conditions with the KES-FB system.6) The
measurement conditions were 293K and 65%RH. The
basic mechanical parameters are shown in Table 2.
2. Tensile property under a low load condition
Tensile properties under a lower force level than
the high sensitivity conditions used with the KES-FB
system are thought to be related to the beauty of
fabric fluttering or swaying, as the fabric is deformed
by the tension caused by the weight of the fabric
Fig. 2. The position of (Z1, Z2) of the fabrics used for making the one-piece dresses
The Z1, Z2 values are the first canonical variate and the second canonical variate for the discrimination of the optimum silhouette type for fabrics.' *, center of each silhouette group; 0, samples with higher scores for the beauty of movement of a one-piece dress TAV (>m+ 1o),△, samples with lower scores for TAV (<m-1σ), □, m-
1σ<TAV<m+1σ.
Fig. 3. The range of values of the basic mechanical
properties of the fabric samples used in this
study
The normalized values using the mean and standard
deviation of 125 types of fabric samples which were used
for the derivation of the discriminant equations are plotted
on the horizontal axes. The data ranges (mean•}la) of the
three silhouette groups (-•›-, tailored (n = 43);-•¥-,
hari (n=42); -•¡-, drape (n= 40)) are also plotted on the
chart. •›, samples with higher scores for the beauty of
movement of a one-piece dress TAV (>m+ 1ƒÐ);
samples with lower scores for TAV (<m-1ƒÐ); m-1ƒÐ<
TAV<m+1ƒÐ.
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itself, the wearer's motion, and wind. They may also
be related to the formability of fabrics that affects the
beauty of the silhouette of garments. In this study, the
trial tester shown in Fig. 4 was made by modifying the
KES-Labo model° for measuring the tensile properties
under lower load conditions with higher accuracy
than the KES-FB1. The details of the measurement
conditions and parameters are shown in Table 3. The
measurement conditions were selected in order to
achieve higher accuracy as follows. The maximum
load was set at 10 gf/cm, which is one-fifth the level
used with high-sensitivity conditions for the KES-FB1,
and the tensile speed was 0.05 mm/s. The parameters
derived from the measurements are tensile energy
WT-h and tensile resilience RT-h, distinguishing these
parameters from the corresponding ones measured
under a set of high-sensitivity conditions.
Table 1. Fabric details of the one-piece dresses used for the visual evaluation
tests
Fig. 4. The KES-Labo model tester used for the
measurement of the tensile properties of
fabrics
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Fabric Mechanical Parameters Related to the Beauty of Fabric Movement of Ladies' Garments
3. Shear property at a smaller shear angle under
smaller tension conditions
The shear property under a set of standard
conditions using a KES-FB1 is measured under a
constant tension of 10 gf/cm, with a maximum shear
angle of 8 degrees. However, we feel that this
constant tension value is too large as a corresponding
measurement condition of the shear property suppos-
ing a one-piece dress on the walking human body. We
believe that the shear property under a smaller
tension condition that is at almost the same level as
the fabric weight in a one-piece dress is more
appropriate as the mechanical property to correlate
with the beauty of the movement of a loose-fitting
one-piece dress. A trial tester which uses the same
principle of measurement as the KES-Labo model was made for measuring smaller shear force under
smaller tension applied to the fabric samples with
higher accuracy than the KES-FB1. Figure 5 shows
the new tester. The effective sample size is 20 cm in
width and 3.5 cm in length, while the size used with
the KES-FB1 is 20 cm in width and 5 cm in length.
The length is shortened in the new tester to prevent
fabric buckling. The maximum shear angle is also set
at 2 degrees, because the maximum shear angle in
which a fabric can be deformed in plane without
buckling tends to become smaller when the constant
tension applied to the lower edge of the specimen
becomes smaller.
The tension loaded at the lower edge of the
effective area of a specimen is at a constant 0.5 gf/cm,
adjusting the total weight of a hook and the specimen
of the clamped area (1•~20 cm) at 10 g. As the range
of fabric weight per unit area is from 59.6 to 220.3
g/m2 in this study, the constant tension of 0.5 gf/cm
corresponds to the fabric's weight at a length of 84
cm (=0.5/0.00596) to 23 cm (0.5/0.02203). That is, the
shear property is measured under such levels of
tension. The two parameters G-h and 2HG-h shown in
Table 3 are derived from this measurement. Prelimi-
narily, we also measured the fabric shear property
under the tension of the exact weight of the 50 cm
length of each fabric sample. The correlation
coefficients between the two conditions were very
high, that is, 0.990 for the shear rigidity G-h, and 0.997
for the shear hysteresis 2HG-h. Therefore, we selected
the data under a constant tension of 0.5 gf/cm as the
shear parameter in this study to simplify measure-
ment.
Subjective evaluation test for the beauty of the
fabric movement of a one-piece dress
A movable mannequin was constructed to simulate
the condition of a human walking. The simultaneous
movement of the vertical axis and rotation shown in
Fig. 6 is synchronized using a pulse transmitter for a
stepping motor. The movement along the vertical axis
Table 2. Description of the mechanical parameters and KES-FB measurement conditions for ladies'
thin dress fabrics6)
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of 2 cm and the rotation of•}20 degrees periodically
occurs at the cycle of 0.6 s per step, simulating
human walking.
Putting test one-piece dresses on the mannequin in
random order, the judges looked at the one-piece
dresses and evaluated the degree of the beauty of
fabric movement in the bodice according to a
semantic differential scale from -2 (not beautiful) to
+ 2 (beautiful) graduated in 0.2 intervals. The judges
were 40 female students aged from 18 to 34. The test
was conducted in December of 1998.
RESULTS
Result of the subjective evaluation of TAV
We examined the correlation coefficient r between
the average value of a total of 40 judges' evaluations
and the evaluation of each judge. The result of the
confidential test of correlation coefficient showed that
there was no judge whose evaluation did not have a
significant correlation at a 5% level, although the
correlation of only one judge was insignificant at the
1% level (r=0.428). Therefore, we adopted the
average evaluation of all judges as a "Total Appear-
ance Value (TAV)" of the beauty of fabric movement
for the analysis. Table 4 shows the values of the TAV
for each of the samples and also the values of the
standard deviation of the evaluations of all judges
which indicate the inter-individual differences in the
evaluation. The inter-individual difference is con-
sidered to be from 0.38 to 1.01 and the average is
0.72. In addition, the TAV ranges from -1.58 to 1.22.
We omitted the data of sample No.19 from the
analysis data because the TAV of this sample was too
small, deviating more than -2ƒÐ(ƒÐ: standard deviation)
from the mean of the TAV of all samples m.
The relation between the TAV and each of the
basic mechanical parameters of the fabrics
Figures 2 and 3 show the characteristics of the (Z1,
Z2) position for the discrimination of the optimum
silhouette for a fabric and the basic mechanical
Table 3. Description of the parameters of fabrics' tensile and
shearing properties measured with the KES-Labo model
Fig. 5. The KES-Labo model tester used for the
measurement of the shear properties of
fabrics
Fig. 6. The movement of the mannequin used for the visual evaluation test of one-piece dresses (Photograph: Sample 15)
30 (256)
Fabric Mechanical Parameters Related to the Beauty of Fabric Movement of Ladies' Garments
parameters of fabric samples with higher or lower
values of TAV. In Fig. 2, we can see that circles which
indicate fabrics with higher scores for TAV (TAV>m
+1ƒÐ) are plotted in the zone of drape type, and
triangles which indicate fabrics with lower scores for
TAV (TAV<m-1ƒÐ) are plotted in the zone of hari
type. Looking at the plots of the basic mechanical
parameters, the samples with higher scores for TAV
tend to be extensible and elastic judging from the
higher values of EM and RT_ Also, both the shear
rigidity and hysteresis tend to be smaller in the case
of fabric samples with higher scores of TAV.
We measured tensile and shear properties under
the two conditions shown in Tables 2 and 3 to
examine the effect of the maximum load in tensile
tests on the tensile parameters, and the effect of the
tension level and the maximum shear deformation in
shear tests on the shear parameters. Before the
analysis of the TAV in connection with the fabric
mechanical parameters, each correlation between the
corresponding parameters measured under the two
different conditions had to be investigated, because if
there were an extremely high correlation, we could
use only the data measured with the usual KES-FB
without having to measure the tensile or shearing
property with the KES-Labo model. Table 5 shows the
correlation coefficient and the linear relation between
the paired parameters, which were derived from a
total of 50 data items from the measurement of the
warp and weft direction for the 25 samples used for
this study. Although all of the correlation coefficients
between the data sets are significant, there was no
extremely high correlation coefficient exceeding 0.9.
It seems that the measurement conditions influence,
more or less, each value of the parameters.
We investigated the correlation between the TAV
and the basic mechanical parameters, using the data
of the 24 fabric samples, with the exception of sample
No. 19. The correlation coefficient r for each of the
parameters is shown in Table 6. In addition, a
quadratic regression equation was obtained, taking
into consideration the existence of the optimum
range of the parameter for the beauty of fabric
movement. The regression curve and correlation
coefficient R are shown in Fig. 7. The tensile
properties have been rarely introduced as important
properties related to the beauty of the appearance of
loose fitting ladies' garments. However, the tensile
resilience RT-h, measured under a lower force level
with the KES-Labo model is closely related to the TAV,
and it can be seen that the fabrics with higher values
of RT-h tend to have higher TAV. We can also see the
trend that the higher the shearing rigidity G or G-h,
Table 4. The mean of the TAV of 40 subject
evaluations and the standard deviation S.D. n_i for each fabric sample
Table 5. The relation between the tensile and shear
parameters measured under the two differ-
ent conditions shown in Tables 2 and 3
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the lower the TAV. On the other hand, there is no
distinct correlation between the bending rigidity B
and the TAV. Also, the correlation between the fabric
weight W and the TAV is small, although the relation
between the TAV and the combination parameters
including the fabric weight, such as parameters of
bending or shearing stiffness related to fabric drape,
will be presented later in this paper.
Derivation of the TAV from the basic mechanical
parameters of fabrics
First, we obtained some multiple regression equa-
tions for the TAV using a set of parameters for each
of the mechanical property blocks, that is, tensile,
shearing and bending properties as the explanation
variables for the TAV, in order to examine which
property contributes most importantly to the TAV. As
we presented the correlation between the TAV and
each of the basic mechanical parameters in Table 6
and also Fig. 7, we see that the quadratic regression
model could achieve a better correlation with the TAV
than the linear model. Also, each of the mechanical
parameters was thought to show a non-linear
contribution with an optimum range of the parameter.
Therefore, we assumed the next equation which
includes the squared values of each parameter as the
explanative variables of the TAV.
(1)
Where, Co: constant; Ca, C12: regression coefficient;
Xi1, Xi2: normalized value; namely Xi1= (xi-mi1)/σi1, Xi2
=(xi2-mi2)/σi2, xi: values of the mechanical param-
eters; xi2: square of xi; mil, mi2: mean values of xi and
xi2 for the population of 24 fabrics; ƒÐi1, ƒÐi2: standard
deviation of xi, xi2. mil, mi2, ƒÐi1, ƒÐi2 are shown
in Table 7.
Because the shear parameter 2HG5 is a hysteresis
at a larger shear deformation degree of 5 and it
correlates to the shear rigidity G with a high
correlation coefficient of 0.929 in the case of our
samples, the parameter 2HG5 was not used as an
explanative variable in this study. The values of Zi
which is calculated from Eq. (1) using regression
coefficients Cil, Ci2, are plotted in Fig. 8 to represent
the contribution to the TAV made by each normalized
parameter. The multiple correlation coefficients R and
root mean of the square of regression error RMS are
also shown in Fig. 8. It shows that the mechanical
blocks with higher regression accuracy are, first, the
tensile properties measured with both the KES-FB1
and the KES-Labo model, and secondly, the shear
property. From the contribution line Zi to the TAV of
Table 6. The correlation coefficient r between the TAV and basic mechanical param-eters of a fabric (n=24)
log means log10.
Fig. 7. The correlation between the TAV and each of
the fabric basic mechanical parameters when
a quadratic regression method is applied, TAV
= aXi 2 +bXi + c, Xi = (xi - mi)/ƒÐi (R, multiple
coefficient, N= 24)
32 (258)
Fabric Mechanical Parameters Related to the Beauty of Fabric Movement of Ladies' Garments
each of the tensile parameters, in the case of the
measurement with the KES-FB1, the smaller LT and
larger RT make the TAV higher. In the case of the
KES-Labo model measurement under a lower tensile
load than the KES-FB1, the RT-h makes a particularly
high contribution to the increase of the TAV, and the WT-h also contributes to the increase of the TAV.
Secondly, in order to obtain higher regression
accuracy, we applied the stepwise block regression method, which was developed by Kawabata and Niwa, to derive objective evaluation equations for fabrics'
primary-hand values.8) As mentioned above, the tensile block gives the best regression accuracy for the TAV, so we defined yk' (k: fabric sample) as the
first-predicted value of TAVk by the regression equation (step 1). Next, the residuals ek (=TAVk-yk') are regressed with the sets of parameters in the remaining blocks, except the tensile block, and the
regressed values ek' and the first-prediction yk' are then summed to obtain a new prediction value yk"
(=Yki +ek'). By comparing the correlation coefficients between the TAVk and the yk" for each case, the mechanical block with the highest correlation is
selected as the explanation parameters in this step
(step 2). This procedure is continued in the same manner until all the blocks are included (step 3 and step 4), as we use four blocks: tensile, shearing,
bending, along with the fabric weight per unit area. Using this method, we derived the multiple
regression equations separately for both cases in
which the tensile property under a high sensitivity condition with the KES-FB1 is selected as the first explanation block in step 1 and the property under a lower tension load with KES-Labo model is selected.
Table 8 shows the coefficients of regression equations
Table 7. The mean values of mil, mi2 and the standard deviations en , ei2 of
each mechanical parameters xi, xi2' for the population of 24 fabrics
used for the regression for the TAV
Fig. 8. The contribution Zi of each mechanical
parameter to the TAV and the multiple correlation coefficient R, as well as root mean square of errors RMS when Eq.(1) is
applied for the TAV regression using a set of
parameters of each mechanical block
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C0, Ci1, Ci2 and the multiple correlation coefficient R
and regression error RMS. When the tensile property measured with the
KES-FB1 is selected in step 1, as shown in Eq. (I) in
Table 8, the shear property measured with the KES-FB1, not with KES-Labo model, is selected as the second block in step 2, and the multiple correlation R increases to 0.947. The bending property is selected
as the third block in step 3 and the fabric weight is determined to be the 4th block in step 4, although the contributions of these parameters to the TAV are
relatively small. When the tensile property measured with the
KES-Labo model is selected as the first explanation block in step 1, as shown in Eqs. (II) and (III), the bending property is determined to be as the second block in step 2 and the multiple correlation R is 0.949.
The contribution of the bending parameters to the
TAV shows that larger rigidity B and smaller hysteresis 2HB make the TAV higher. This indicates that the fabric movement becomes more beautiful as
the ratio of the hysteresis element to the elastic element of bending becomes smaller. The RMS is 021 until this stage, that is, when the tensile and bending
properties are used for the explanation parameters. The accuracy of the equation may be said to be relatively high, because the inter-individual differ-ences for the TAV is thought to be within the range
from 0.38 to 1.01, which is the range of the standard deviation of all judgements for each of the samples. In
step 3, the shear property measured with the KES-FB1 is selected with R=0.961 as shown in Eq.
(II), and then the weight is selected with R= 0.964 in step 4, although these properties do not significantly
Table 8. The result of the stepwise-block-regression method
using the basic mechanical parameters of fabrics
C0= 0.210.
34 (260)
Fabric Mechanical Parameters Related to the Beauty of Fabric Movement of Ladies' Garments
affect the TAV. If the shear property measured with
the KES-Labo model in place of the KES-FB1 is selected in step 3, Eq. (111) is obtained with almost the same accuracy as Eq. (II).
DISCUSSION
We investigated the relationship between the TAV
of ladies' garments in this study and the parameters
derived from the basic mechanical parameters of
fabrics, related to primary mechanical components
which influence the beauty of men's tailored suit
appearance. Kawabata and Niwa derived a prediction
equation for the beauty of suit appearance using
three primary mechanical components of fabrics-that is
, the formability component, elastic potential
component and drapeability component- by investi-
gating the relationship between fabric mechanical
properties and the beauty of men's tailored suit
appearance.8) Each of the components consists of two
or three parameters derived from the basic mechani-
cal parameters measured with the KES-FB system
under a set of "standard conditions." Although the
measurement conditions of the fabric mechanical
properties used in this study are different from those
for the suiting fabrics, for example in the maximum
force level in the tensile test, we tried to analyze the
TAV using parameters corresponding to the param-
eters used to predict men's suit appearance. As
shown in Table 9, the parameters EL2, BS2 and SS are
selected for the formability component, EP, BP and
SP for the elastic potential component, and BSIW
and 3•ãSS/W for the drapeability component. Also, as we
Table 9. Mechanical parameters related to the beauty of the garment's appearance
-h(e.g., SS-h) means the parameter measured with KES-Labo model in order to distinguish the parameter
fromthecorrespondingonemeasuredwithKES-FB1.
Fig. 9. The correlation between the TAV and each of
the parameters derived from the basic
mechanical parameters of fabrics when a
quadratic regression method is applied, TAV=αXi2+bXi+c, Xi=(xi-mi)/σi
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have the mechanical data measured with the KES-
Labo model, the parameters SS-h, EP-h, SP-h
and 3•ãSS/W-h are added.
Firstly, we investigated the relationship between the
TAV and each of the mechanical parameters, applying
the quadratic regression method because each
parameter was thought to have an optimum value in
the same way as the basic mechanical parameters.
Figure 9 shows the regression curve and correlation
coefficient. As for the parameters related to the
formability of a garment, we can see that the TAV
tends to decrease as the effective shearing stiffness
SS or SS-h become larger. As for the elastic potential
component, in particular, as the tensile elastic
potential energy EP-h measured under a lower
tension load with the KES-Labo model increases, the
TAV rises. This indicates that the tensile property
under a lower tension load has a close relation to the
TAV, along with the resilience RT-h, as mentioned
earlier. It may be considered that these tensile elastic
potential parameters are related to the occurrence of
the vibration of the fabric, like spring behavior in a
dynamic condition, which leads to the higher TAV
reflecting the fabric's liveliness and bouncing impres-
sion. On the other hand, fabrics with higher values of
the shearing elastic potential SP or SP-h tend to have
a lower TAV, while the bending elastic potential BP
has nothing to do with the TAV. However, it can be
seen that the TAV tends to decrease as the
parameters related to the drape of fabrics, VBS/W,
which corresponds to "bending length" in a cantilev-
er, become larger. Also, the other drapeability
component parameter, the shearing stiffness related
to drape 3•ãSS/W or 3•ãSS/W-h, is more closely related to
the TAV of ladies' garments, and smaller values are desirable for the TAV.
Secondly, multiple regression analysis was cond-
ucted using the mechanical parameter group of each of the components (formability, elastic potential and drapeability) as explanation parameters. Supposing
that the contribution of each parameter to the TAV has a quadratic form, the square terms of each mechanical value were included as the explanation variables, in the same way as Eq. (1) was applied to
the regression using the basic mechanical parameters of each mechanical property block. Table 10 shows
the multiple correlation coefficients R and the regression errors RMS which resulted from the multiple regression analysis. The highest multiple correlation coefficients R were obtained by the elastic
potential component group by including the EP-h measured under the lower load condition with the KES-Labo model instead of the EP. These results
indicate that the elastic potential component, includ-ing the tensile property under a lower load and
shearing and bending properties, closely relates to the beauty of fabric movement of a loose-fitting one-piece dress.
In this way, we derived the TAV equations using the
parameters of the primary components related to the appearance of garments. However, we would like to recommend Eq. (II), derived by the stepwise block
regression method using the basic mechanical
parameters, as the prediction equation of the TAV, because Eq. (II) has a higher regression accuracy
and is also preferable from the viewpoint of fabric design. One reason for this is that all of the
parameters are the fabrics' basic mechanical param-
Table 10. The results of the multiple regression using the
parameter group of each of the components:
formability, elastic potential and drapeability
36 (262)
Fabric Mechanical Parameters Related to the Beauty of Fabric Movement of Ladies' Garments
eters which are linked to the engineered textile material design from fibers to fabrics through yarns.
Another reason is that the order of importance of each property block for the TAV is clarified and
therefore the TAV can be predicted using only the effective properties of the first block (tensile) or the
first block and the second block (bending) with relatively high accuracy. Thus, it is indicated that Eq.
(II) is easier to use and also more applicable to actual fabric design for creating beautiful clothing silhouettes under dynamic conditions.
CONCLUSION
The mechanical properties of fabrics related to the
beauty of fabric movement of a loose-fitting one-piece dress TAV brought about by human motion and also
the measurement conditions of tensile and shear
properties were discussed in this paper. It was found that the TAV is closely related to the tensile property, especially under a lower tensile load, although the tensile property has not been regarded as an
important property until now. In our experiment, the tensile property under a lower tension load (ma-ximum load= 10 gf/cm) is more closely related to the
TAV than the tensile property measured under a set of high sensitivity conditions with the KES-FB1, which is used all over the world for the objective evaluation of fabric hand.
The regression equation of the TAV, Eq. (II) in Table 8, was obtained with higher regression accuracy
by the stepwise block regression method using the basic mechanical parameters of tensile, bending, shearing and fabric weight. Also, multi-variable regression analysis was conducted for each of the
three primary mechanical components related to the beauty of garment appearance. The results were that the elastic potential component predicted the TAV
with higher accuracy than the formability and drapeability component, and the elastic potential of fabric was thought to be more important for the
beauty of the movement of loose-fitting one-piece dresses.
At present, we conclude that Eq. (II) is the most
preferable TAV prediction equation, but in future
studies, we would like to inspect the prediction ability
of the equation by applying new fabric samples that were not used to derive the equation.
REFERENCES
1) Niwa, M., Nakanishi, M., Ayada, M., and Kawabata, S.: Optimum Silhouette Design for Ladies' Garments Based on the Mechanical Properties of a Fabric, Textile Res. J., 68 (8), 578-588 (1998)
2) Ayada, M., and Niwa, M.: Relation between the Comfort of Gathered Skirts and the Fabric Mechanical Proper-ties (in Japanese), Sen-i Gakkaishi, 47 (6), 291-298
(1991) 3) Izumi, K., and Niwa, M.: Evaluation of Dynamic Drape
of Ladies' Dress Fabrics, in Proceedings of the 3rd Japan-Australia Symposium on Objective Measurement: Applications to Product Design and Process Control, Kyoto, Textile, Machinery Society of Japan, Osaka, 725-734
(1986) 4) Matsudaira, M.: Vibrational Property of Filament Weave
Based on Shear Deformation Part 3: Relationship between Shear and Bending Vibrational Properties of Fabrics and Beautiful Appearance of Skirts in Dynamic State (in Japanese), Nihon Seni Kikai Gakkaishi (J. Textile Machin. Soc. Jpn.), 45 (8), T115-T121 (1992)
5) Matsudaira, M.: Relationship between Vibrational Prop-erty of Shingosen Polyester Fabrics and Beautiful Appearance of Moving Skirt (in Japanese), Kanazawa Daigaku Kyoikugakubu Kiyou Shizenkagakuhen (Bull. Fac. Educ. Kanazawa Univ. Nat. Sci.), No. 43,39-47 (1994)
6) Kawabata, S., and Niwa, M.: Improvement in the Objective Evaluation of Fabric Hand for Thin Dress Fabrics, Part 1: Selection of the Fabric Deformation Range in the Measurement of Mechanical Properties
(in Japanese), Nihon Seni Kikai Gakkaishi (J. Textile Machin. Soc. Jpn.), 37 (7), T113-T121 (1984)
7) Kawabata, S., and Niwa, M.: Jikkenshitsu de dekiru tezukuri souchi wo mochiita yasashii nuno no rikigakutokusei no keisoku to kenkyuu no tenkai, Kiso toshiteno yasashii ifukuzairyou koushuukai koumokubetsu siriizu, yasashii nuno no rikigaku to fuuai, Textile Machin. Soc. Jpn. HESC, Osaka, 23-36 (1978)
8) Kawabata, S., and Niwa, M., Fabric Performance in Clothing and Clothing Manufacture, J. Text. Inst., 80 (10), 19-50 (1989)
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J. Home Econ. Jpn. Vol. 52 No. 3 (2001)
婦人服の着用動作による布の動 きの美 しさに関わる布の力学パラメータ
中西正恵, 丹羽雅子*
(神戸女子大学家政学科,*奈 良女子大学)
原稿受付平成12年3月31日;原 稿受理平成12年12月15日
本論 文 で は,ワ ンピース ドレスの布 の動 きの美 しさZ4V(total appearance value)に 及 ぼす
布 の力学 パ ラメー タの 影響 を紹 介 す る.歩 行 を模擬 す る動 くマ ネキ ンに25種 の布 で つ くった
ル ーズ な ワ ンピー ス をラ ン ダム に着 せ 替 えて い って,40人 の女子 学生 がTAVを 評 価 した.布
の力 学特 性 を,KES-FBシ ス テム に よ り婦 人薄 手布用 の標 準 化 され た条件 で測 定 した.よ り密
接 にTAVを 布 の力 学特 性 と結 び合 わせ るた め には,測 定 条件 を歩行 中の ドレスの布 にか か る
カ レベ ル に近 づ け る よ う見 直 す べ き と考 え,我 々 は,引 張 り.せ ん 断 測 定 用 のKES-Labo
modelを 原型 と した新 しい測 定 装置 を試 作 した.こ の装 置 を用 いて,KES-FB1の 条件 よ りも
小 さいカ レベ ルで の引 張 り特 性,お よび,布 に負荷 す る一 定 引張 り荷 重 を着 用時 の布 の 自重 と
ほぼ等 価 の よ り小 さい値 と し,微 小 せ ん断 ひず み領域 で のせ ん断特性 を測定 した.布 の基本 力
学 特性,衣 服 の外 観 に関 わ る基本 力 学特 性値 か ら誘導 され るパ ラ メー タのTAVへ の寄 与が,
重 回帰 分析 に よ り調 べ られ た.こ れ まで の婦 人服 の動 きの美 しさについ ての研 究 では,曲 げ と
せ ん断特 性 が主 と して議論 され て きた が,TAVに は布 の引 張 り特 性 も密接 に関連 して い るこ と
が示 され た.本 研 究 で の知見 は,イ メー ジ した服 づ く りのた めの布 の選別 や新 素材 の 開発 な ど
に応 用 で きるだ ろ う.
キー ワ-ド:布 の力 学 的性 質,引 張 り特 性,曲 げ特 性,せ ん断特 性,布 の動 き,ワ ンピース ド
レス.
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