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HANDLOOMS AND PLAIN WEAVE
Ankita Patel
Caroline Muani
Hema Apundoley
Ketan Dhillon
Rashida Tambuwala
Ramdev Bharti
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A handloomis a simple
machine
used forweaving in
which no
power isused.
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1. Wood frame
2. Seat for weaver
3. Warp beam- let off
4. Warp threads
5. Back beam or platen
6. Rods used to make a shed
7. Heddle frame - heald frame - harness
8. Heddle - heald - the eye
9. Shuttle with weft yarn
10. Shed
11. Completed fabrica
12. Breast beam
13. Batten with reed comb
14. Batten adjustment
15. Lathe
16. Treadles
17. Cloth roll- take up
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In a wooden vertical-shaft looms the heddles were
fixed in place in the shaft. The warp threads pass
alternately through a heddle and through a space
between the heddles (the shed), so that raising the
shaft raises half the threads (those passing
through the heddles), and lowering the shaft
lowers the same threadsthe threads passing
through the spaces between the heddles remain in
place.
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ADVANTAGE
Its give employment a lot.
No use of energy or power.
One can make and use.
Part time work.
Hand looms could be set up anywhere,
anytime, with little specialized equipment
needed.
They could be used to weave very basic
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They could be modified to produce wide pieces of cloth
or narrow ones, depending on the length of the
supporting bar or branch. Linen, wool and cotton threads
could be woven on them.
It is comfortable.
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It not for commercial
use.Very old tradition.
It is expensive.
Time taker.
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Plain Weave
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Plain weave (also called tabby weave, linen weave or
taffeta weave) is the most basic of three fundamental
types of textile weaves (along with satin weave and
twill). It is strong and hard-wearing, used for fashion and
furnishing fabrics.
In plain weave, the warp and weft are aligned so they
form a simple criss-cross pattern. Each weft thread
crosses the warp threads by going over one, then under
the next, and so on. The next weft thread goes under the
warp threads that its neighbour went over, and vice
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Balanced plain weaves are fabrics in which the warp and
weft are made of threads of the same weight (size) and the
same number of ends per inch as picks per inch. A balanced
plain weave can be identified by its checkerboard-like
appearance. It is also known as one-up-one-down weave or
over and under pattern.
Basket weave is a variation of plain weave in which two or
more threads are bundled and then woven as one in the
warp or weft, or both.
Some examples of fabric with plain weave are chiffon,
organza, and taffeta.
ruc ure o a n eave
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ruc ure o a n eave
In plain weave, each weft thread (filling) passes
alternatively over and under each warp yarn in a
square pattern.
Alternative names
It is also known as tabby, homespun or taffeta
weave.
Manufacture
On the loom, the plain weave requires only two heald
shafts. Each weft yarn goes alternately under and
over the warp yarns across the width of the fabric.
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Appearance
It has a flat appearance. There are no distinct designs.
However these may be produced if yarns have
contrasting colours or thicknesses. The various color
and weave effects that can be produced will be dealt
with in another blog.
Properties
It is easily produced. This is the most made weave in
the world. It is relatively inexpensive.
V i i f Pl i
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Variations of Plain weave
1. Square plain weaves
In such weaves, warp and weft are present in equalamounts, or in other words, warp cover factor is equal to
the weft cover factor.
These are used as surgical dressings, dairy cloths,
muslin dress fabrics, parachute fabrics, handkerchief
fabrics, fabrics for shoes and tents, sheeting fabrics;canvas for transport covers and fabric for use as ribbons
in type writers or computers.
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2. Warp-faced plain weaves
In these fabrics, warp cover factor is greater than that of
weft cover factor. This is normally achieved by having
more ends than picks per cm. the warp crimp is also high
in these fabrics, while weft crimp is low. Thus very faint
lines across the width of the fabrics are produced.
A typical fabric in this group is poplin. A typical
construction for a polyester/ cotton poplin shirtings is
50x25; 16 tex x 16 tex; 14% x 93% giving a weight of
130g/m2 and a cover factor of 20.0+9.7 = 29.7.
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3. Weft-faced plain weaves
This is not a popular group of fabrics as it is
normally produced with more than ends per cm, the
rate of production in the loom will be greatly
reduced. The most popular fabric in this group is the
limbric, which is used for dress prints.
e appearance o a p a n a r c can e c ange n many
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e appearance o a p a n a r c can e c ange n many
ways.
1. The use of colour
In the warp direction, colour stripes are produced along the length
of the fabric. In the filling direction, colour stripes are produced
across the width of the fabric. When used in both warp and weft
directions, a check effect is produced.
2. Changing yarn court
Stripes and check effects can be produced by using different yarn
count in one or both directions.
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3. Changing the yarn twist
Using combinations of different twist levels and directions in the
warp or weft, different effects can be produced is the fabric due to
the changes in the orientations of the fibers as shown.
4. Different Finishing treatment
Treatments such as dyeing mercerizing with caustic soda or
coating can change the characteristics of plain fabric.
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VOILE AND CREPE FABRICS
These are specialized types of plain weave fabrics.
These fabrics are produced using highly twisted two fold
yarns. with the doubling twist in the same direction as
that of single yarn.
For voile yarn the tex twist factor is generally between
5000 and 7000, while for crepe yarn, it is nearer to 9000.
Voiles are used in lightweight, semi-opaque fabrics for
dress saris and light filters.
Crepes are used dress, blouses and support bandages.
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Thank You !
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Questions?