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MD.AZMERI LATIF BEG
M. Sc in Textile Engineering
Department of Textile Engineering,DIU
Introduction of Jamdani Saree.
History of Jamdani Saree.
Weaving of Jamdani Saree Color Motif.
Origin of Dhakai Saree Closer view of motif
Jamdani Sari - Bangladesh's Finest Textiles.
Manufacturing Area in Bangladesh.
Market of Jamdani in Bangladesh.
Where to buy cheap Jamdani Saree in Dhaka.
Present Situation of Jamdani in Bangladesh.
Exporting of Jamdani.
Current problem and future scope of Jamdani in Bangladesh.
Reference.
“Jamdani Saree” is a product of hand-loom and made up of generally cotton. The concept of Jamdani saree is mainly came from the idea of Muslin, another super thin and soft fabric of Bangladesh. There are some kinds of Jamdani like figured or flowered Jamdani and fabricated Jamdani. But whatever may be the kind Jamdani is undoubtedly the best cotton weaved hand loom saree or product in Bangladesh. The word Jamdani is of Persian origin, deriving from „Jam‟, meaning flower, and „Dani‟, a vase or a container.
Jamdani Saree is very favorite to a woman among the large varieties of Saree produced in Bangladesh. The word Jamdani is derived from Persia, where ‘Jam’ means flower and ‘Dani’ means a vase or a container. Jamdani is world famous for it’s eye catching artistic and expensive ornamental fabric. It’s made of high quality cotton muslin of Bengali origin, with colored stripes and patterns.
History of Jamdani Saree Jamdani which is one of the finest muslin textiles is mainly originated
from Bangladesh. The people of Bangladesh are making Jamdani for centuries. It is one of the most time and labor-intensive forms of weaving hand loom weaving.
Under British colonialism, the Bengali Jamdani and muslin industries rapidly declined due to colonial import policies favoring industrially manufactured textiles. In more recent years, the production of Jamdani has witnessed a revival in Bangladesh. The traditional art of weaving Jamdani has been declared by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
Jamdani is a woven fabric mainly produced from cotton. Certainly it is one of the most beautiful varieties of the finest muslin. It has been spoken of as the most artistic textile of the Bangladeshi weaver. Traditionally it is woven around Dhaka, Bangladesh. Jamdani is fabulously rich in motifs.
In Bangladesh, weavers use fine Egyptian cotton, but the Indian weavers use only indigenous raw material. The single warp is usually ornamented with two extra weft followed by ground weft. The Dhakai Jamdani is woven painstakingly by hand on the old fashioned Jala loom, and many take even up to one year to weave a single sari. It feels supple to the touch and drapes gently to reveal the contours of the wearer.
DesignThe method of weaving resembles tapestry work in which small shuttles of coloured, gold or silver threads, are passed through the weft. The jamdani dexterously combines intricate surface designs with delicate floral sprays. When the surface is covered with superb diagonally striped floral sprays, the sari is called terchha. The anchal (the portion that goes over and beyond the shoulder) is often decorated with dangling, tassel like corner motifs, known as jhalar.
The most coveted design is known as the panna hazaar (literally: a thousand emeralds) in which the floral pattern is highlighted with flowers interlaced like jewels by means of gold and silver thread. The kalka (paisley), whose origin may be traced to the painted manuscripts of the Mughal period, has emerged as a highly popular pattern. Yet another popular pattern in jamdani is the phulwar, usually worked on pure black, blue black, grey or off-white background colours.
colorThe traditional nilambari, dyed with indigo, or designs such as toradar (literally: a bunch or bouquet) preserved in weaving families over generations are now being reproduced. Other jamdani patterns are known as phulwar, usually worked on pure black, blue black, grey or off-white background colours.WeaveFor traditional jamdani weaving, a very elementary pit loom is used and the work is carried on by the weaver and his apprentice. The latter works under instruction for each pick, weaving his needle made from, buffalo horn or tamarind wood to embroider the floral sequence. With a remarkable deftness, the weft yarn is woven into the warp in the background colour from one weaver to the otherThe butis (motifs) across the warp, the paar (border) and anchal (the portion that goes over and beyond the shoulder) are woven by using separate bobbins of yarn for each colour. The fine bobbins are made from tamarind wood or bamboo. After completion the cloth is washed and starched.
Colors: The original Bangladeshi sari is almost invariably on a beige background, but new designs are more adventurous. The gossamer thin black Jamdani with its splash of multi colored linear or floral motifs sprinkled generously all over the body and border and crowned with an exquisitely designed elaborate pallu is a feast for the eyes.
Jamdani is a fine muslin cloth on which decorative motifs are woven on the loom, typically in grey and white. Often a mixture of cotton and gold thread were/was used.
Motif: In Jamdani saree motif is mainly used in its borders, body and pallav. Great skill is required for motif purpose. First the motif is drawn on graph paper, the size of the motif varies depending on the count, if the count is fine, the design on the graph paper is big, and if the count is coarse the design is small. Only new motifs are drawn on the graph paper. Traditional motifs are executed from memory.
Origin of Dhakai Saree The name Dhakai comes from the Dhaka city of Bangladesh. The weaving technique is
inhibited from from Bangladeshi weavers, but the design and motifs have the influence of Persian designs. Jam- means flowers and dani means vases. Due to its appeal, this technique of weaving is widely explored by weavers of West Bengal, as the result of this, now we can see many varieties of Dhakai Jamdani Sarees.
Motifs and designs in Dhakai Jamdani sarees Jamdani sarees have floral motifs in Geometrical shapes. Here you can see the red
floral motifs woven on white dhakai jamdani saree
Closer view of motifThe special technique of interlacing the threads is used in weaving motifs
of Jamdani sarees. Though Jamdani sarees were weaved using cottons, in the Mughal era, weavers started using zari to weave the Dhakai Jamdani sarees.Here is a saree with Zari weaving. To meet the current fashion trends, jamdani weavers are using new designs and innovation. This effort of the weavers is making the Jamdani saree, a designer saree that every saree loving woman wants to have in her saree collection.
Varieties of Jamdani Work
Mainly Jamdani work used for sarees, scarves and handkerchiefs. The types of Jamdani sarees are DaccaiJamdani, Tangail Jamdani, Shantipur Jamdani, DhaniakhaliJamdani.
Jamdani Sari - Bangladesh's Finest Textiles A worker coloring twists of Jamdani sari. Jamdani is the finest Muslin textile
produced in Dhaka District. It is a time consuming and labor-intensive form of hand loom weaving, thus, UNESCO declared it as an 'intangible national cultural heritage of humanity'. Nowapara (near Dhaka) is a big village of Jamdani, where people are busy with Jamdani market every Thursday.
Manufacturing Area in Bangladesh In Bangladesh Jamdani is mainly weaved in Narayangonj near Dhaka.In
Sonargaon in Narayanganj there is also one market where the jamdani is sold in the very early morning.On that market in Sonargaon the weavers gather in the very early morning and sell jamdani saree in a very low price.Though,they sell a large number of jamdani saree over there but still the price they get is very low in comparison to their hard labor.
But this jamdani saree price gets very high when it is displayed in a showroom in the market.There is a renowned place where you will get a lot of jamdani collection in the city of Dhaka.
Jamdani brings new life to villagers in Iswardi
Nearly 5 hundred families of Muhammadpur and Purbo Tangrivillages of the upazilla are currently engaged with the cottage industries of Jamdani saree and Karuchupi Shilpo (decoration of sarees), say the industry insiders.
The weavers of Jamdani indutsty include mainly the rural women who by their fine hand skills stitch the cloth to make sarees of luxury decoration. Hand-stitching is the main feature of Jamdanisaree.
This kind of luxury sarees are highly sought after by the Bangaleewomen who usually wear different festivals like wedding, Eid and Puja.
Although the women of these villages are increasingly getting involved with this industry, there were very few number of women engaged in weaving Jamdani saree here.
Market of Jamdani in Bangladesh Jamdani saree is available in Bangladeshi renowned fashion house showroom.
There is a renowned place where you will get a lot of jamdani collection in the city of Dhaka. Hokers Markets near Dhaka new market is a nice place to buy jamdani saree because there is a huge collection and the price are also reasonable.
Another market is Benarosi Polli in Mirpur, Dhaka; here also a lot of Jamdani saree is available.
Mirpur Benarasi palli
Where to buy cheap Jamdani Saree in Dhaka The best place to buy Jamdani Saree in a very low rate is to buy Jamdani saree
from the markets of Naryanganj. In Naryanganj Rupashi and Kazipara are very famous for Jamdani production and weaving.These jamdani sarees are displayed in a market which is called Jamdani Market.This market starts very early in the morning. Something like 4 am-5 am the market starts and the sarees are sold in a very cheap rate.The whole sellers buy the Jamdani saree from those markets and sell those in the show rooms in Dhaka.
The fashion houses have the good collection of Jamdani but the price is unnecessarily high. So, who want to buy jamdani saree from occasion this is not the best or good option.If one want to buy Jamdani Saree in a cheap rate then just go to the Hokers market near new market in Dhaka.We will get a huge collection of Jamdani. Though they will ask you for a high rate but we can bargain. We will get a large scale of Jamdani saree collection in Hokers Market. We will get the lowest price from 1100 tk to 10000tk and more.So, if we want to buy Jamdani in a cheap rate and want to see large collection then go to Hokers Market.
Present Situation of Jamdani in Bangladesh
For being low salary many weavers do not want their children to come to this profession. For many, the garments industry offers a lucrative alternative. But, the government and other organizations are trying to revive the old glory of Dhakai Jamdani. A Jamdani Palli has been established near Dhaka. Jamdani, one of the oldest forms of cottage industry in Bangladesh, was once was a dying trade. Organizations like Radiant Institute of Design, Shanto Mariam University of creative technology,National Institute of Design (NID) and others are helping designers create new Jamdani designs.
Jamdani has never gone out of style. Even today, Jamdani is equally valued It has and it always will symbolize aristocracy. The demand for quality Jamdani Sarees have increased exponentially over the years.
Exporting of Jamdani
Bangladesh‟s Jamdani sarees are gaining popularity among the fashion-loving Indian women though they have rich tradition in the fashion world, market operator‟s said.Bangladesh is exporting fine quality Jamdani sarees to a number of countries including India, Italy, USA, Canada and the Middle Eastern countries. Of them, 80 percent goes to India alone. Bangladesh‟s export of Jamdani sarees to India was $6.12 million in 2010-11 fiscal year (FY) against its export worth $1.49 million in FY 2008-09, according to data of the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB). The country has exported Jamdani sarees worth $5.21 million during the first ten months of the FY‟12 to India, the EPB data showed.The total export of Jamdani sarees was $4.84m in FY09, $6.0 million in FY‟10 and in FY‟11 it was $10.41 million. The first ten months‟ export of the product is $9.80 million.Export of Jamdani sarees to India has increased more than four times during the last three years, they added.
Current problem and future scope of Jamdani in Bangladesh
According to a national daily, a senior taanti or “ostad” earns about Tk 2,500 to Tk 3,000 per month. Junior weavers get much less, around Tk 1,600. As a result many weavers do not want their children to come to this profession. For many, the garments industry offers a lucrative alternative. So, this point to be noticed to be with Jamdani in future long time. Without we have to also keep an eye over raw materials collection. Because of weak backward linkage we are going to be in back lined day by day.
If we can overcome all problems related Jamdani then we can expect that it can be one of our great export products from Bangladesh.
