Images: photo

Light-Natural light-Flash light-A mix of ambient light and flash. • Most safe in a cloudy day. • If you are photographing in sunlight, try to position yourself so that the

sun hits your subject from the side, this will give you nice 'modeling' and help create a 3D effect in the picture.• Sunlight behind the subject can give a very pleasing 'backlight' effect but

be careful that you are not getting 'flare' in the lens, which degrades the contrast of the image.

A picture taken in the middle of the day, the overhead sun casts deep shadows into the kids' eyes, spoiling an otherwise quite nice little group portrait.

This picture was taken at the same time as the one on the left but here the sun is behind the subject.

Composition: The rule of the third• The rule of thirds is one of the most

important rules of photographic composition. Landscape photographers are particularly fond of this one, but it works well for many types of subject.

• The rule of thirds simply says that, instead of placing the main focus of interest in the center of the frame, which makes for a very static composition, that you look to position it on an intersection of the thirds. That is to say one third up and one third in or two thirds up and one third in etc.

ExampleNever, ever put the horizon in the middle (almost never).

The tree takes on more importance in this picture because it now sits on the intersection of the vertical and horizontal third, which is a very powerful position in the frame.

Reasons for the rule of the third1. The first is a more general feeling that a

subject in the center of the frame is 'at rest', it's not going anywhere it feels . . . And a bit boring.

2. Moving the subject, or main point of interest, away from the center of the frame shakes things up, makes the viewer work a little, it just makes the picture more dynamic.

3. The emphasis can be either horizontal, vertical or both.

4. Rule of the third for smartphone

http://iphonephotographyschool.com/the-rule-of-thirds/

Use DiagonalsSetting your subject matter on a diagonal will almost always make for a more dynamic picture. points. Move around the subject and look for a diagonal.

Framing images1. Head Roomhttps://www.atomiclearning.com/video-storytelling-guide/shot-rules-Too much headroom makes the person appear to be sinking. Most novice photographers and videographers will frame shots of people with too much headroom. -Too little headroom places visual emphasis on the person's chin and neck. When framing shots of people, pay attention to where the eyes appear.

Framing images2. Lead room-Leave extra space in the direction your subject is looking. This is also called a nose room. Leave extra space in front of a moving person or object, like a runner, bicycle, or automobile when following the action.https://www.atomiclearning.com/video-storytelling-guide/shot-ruleshttps://www.atomiclearning.com/video-storytelling-guide/shot-rules3. Background Make sure what's in the background of your shot doesn't draw your viewer's attention from your main subject. https://www.atomiclearning.com/video-storytelling-guide/shot-rules

Look at the backgroundMake sure there are no undesirable objects. Especially, in the corners of the frame, behind the head, bright colors

Viewpoint & croppingThe first, most obvious difference between one viewpoint and another is the background. If a subject that cannot easily be moved, the only way to change what is in the background is to choose a different viewpoint. Do not think that you can crop the picture while editing, it will damage the quality.

Exposure• In photography, 'exposure' means the amount of light that falls onto the

sensor of your digital camera. In modern cameras the exposure is usually set to automatic by default and, most of the time, it can be left there and will produce beautiful pictures.• The amount of light falling on the film is governed by four things.

1. The 'shutter speed' which is the amount of time the shutter is open, measured in fractions of a second.

2. The amount of light reflected from the scene which, if you are outdoors, you can do very little about.

3. The 'aperture setting' which is the size of the hole through which the light enters. Aperture settings are measured in 'f stops'.

4. The ISO setting. This is the 'sensitivity' of the sensor.

Shutter speed• Shutter Speed refers to the amount of

time the shutter is open. This is usually measured in fractions of a second, a 'normal' (hate that word!) shutter speed would be around 1/125th of a second with a standard lens or mid-range zoom lens on the camera.

• The shorter the time that the shutter is open the sharper the photo will be. If you are taking fast moving objects such as cars, cyclists or people running you need to select fast shutter speeds to capture the sharpest picture you can.

Apertures• The size of the aperture you choose

governs the 'Depth of Field'. A smaller aperture will give you a greater depth of field and a larger aperture will give you a more restricted depth of field.

• Depth of field, or the lack of it, is much more noticeable when taking close-ups. It is often desirable to render the background of your picture out of focus. This is easy to achieve by selecting a larger aperture.

• Conversely, when photographing very small objects getting everything in focus can be quite a challenge and may require a very slow shutter speed in order to be able to use the smallest aperture available.

Shutters Speeds and Apertures

• Pre-set numbers. • On a normal sunny day you might see something like '125 16' or '500

5.6‘ in your viewfinder. The first number is the 'shutter speed' and is simply the time that the shutter will be open for, expressed as a fraction of a second. So 125 means that the shutter will be open for 1/125th of a second, and 500 means that it will be open for 1/500th of a second. 1/500th of a second is referred to as a 'faster' shutter speed than 1/125th, which is a 'slower' shutter speed.