Around Brazil in 40.000 alembics

Thanks to: #cachaça #mapadacachaca #coquetelariabrasileira #TOTC

Felipe Jannuzzi, Jean Ponce, Tony Harion

presents

DADOS DE ACESSOTONY HARION

Works with hospitality and cocktails since 2001

Studied robotics engineering, product design and business

Founded Mixing Bar consultancy 2005 in Belo Horizonte / Brasil

Grey Goose vodka brand ambassador

@TonyHarion

DADOS DE ACESSOJEAN PONCE

Hospitality  Degree in 2002

Studying Brazil  And cachaça for over 15 years

Best Brazilian barman (2013-2014)  By the specialized magazine “Prazeres da Mesa”

D.O.M.  Worked at chef Alex Atala restaurant, elected  the seventh best in the world

@JeanPonce7

DADOS DE ACESSOFELIPE JANNUZZI

Quest:  What makes an outstanding cachaça?

Mapa da Cachaça:  Created Mapa da Cachaça in 2010 with Gabriela Barreto.

2013: Recognized as the best cultural digital project of Brazil

2014: Represented Brazilian gastronomy at the World Cup

On the road:  Learn and share more about Brazil at Mapa da Cachaça

@felipejan/@mapadacachaca

Informal producer in Rio Pardo de Minas: small city in Minas Gerais with + 100 informals.

+ 4.000 REGISTERED  

+ 40.000 UNREGISTERED  

600.000 JOBS  

US$ 600 MILLIONS/YEAR  

1,7 BILLION OF LITERS/YEAR  

ONLY 1% IS EXPORTED  

2013: 4124 cachaças on the market!  Data from the Ministery of Agriculture  

Mapa  da  Cachaça

MAPA DA CACHAÇA SINCE 2013:  1351 REGISTERED CACHAÇAS  

CONNECTING PRODUCERS TO  

1.8 MILLION ONLINE VISITORS  

RESPOSTA...

CACHAÇA, THE BRAZILIAN SPIRIT

Sugarcane:  Distillation of the fermented sugarcane juice

Sugar:  You may add sugar (6 g/L)

Aguardente from Brazil:  Must be produced in Brazil

Alcohol:  38% to 48%

Woods:  Aged in different kinds of woods or only rested in stainless still

CACHAÇA

Cachaça Adoçada To 30g/liter

MÍDIAS SOCIAIS

RESPOSTA...

MAP

Tiquira Aguardente from manioc

Aguardente de Cana Sugarcane spirit with 49%  

AGUARDENTES

Brazilian  Culture,  History  and  Flavours

Brazilian  Culture,  History  and  Flavours

Brazilian  Culture,  History  and  Flavours

Brazilian  Culture,  History  and  Flavours

Brazilian  Culture,  History  and  Flavours

Brazilian  Culture,  History  and  Flavours

Rio Vermelho (MG):  Holy Cachaça

Ver-­‐o-­‐Peso  Belém  -­‐  Pará

Brazilian  Culture,  History  and  Flavours

Mapa  da  Cachaça

Brazilian  Culture,  History  and  Flavours

Brazilian  Culture,  History  and  Flavors

Futebol  and  Cachaça

Futebol  and  Cachaça

RESPOSTA...

HISTORY

Amazonia by Jean Ponce

Cachaça rested in Bálsamo Cointreau Passion Fruit Lime Mint Piprioca

Different names:  Aguardente da terra (1646)  Jeritiba (Bahia, 1689)  Geritiba (Luanda – Angola, 1688)  Pinga (1773)  Caninha (1867)

Official name:  During the 60s the name cachaça starts to get more  famous. 2001 is officialized.

Origins:  Cachaza – cheap brandy from Portugal and Spain made from grapes  Cagaça – dregs of sugar  Cachaça – female of the pig (cachaço)

THE NAME

Many nicknames:  More than 600 hundred synonyms: água-que-passarinho-não-bebe (water that bird doesn’t drink)

300-200 B.C:  Archeological site at Pakistan

shows evidence of commercial distillation

Sugarcane:  Originally from Asia.  

Only in India  grew more than 400 wild species.

Mid. 1300 in north western Asia distilling with raw sugar

Sugar mill spreads though the Brazilian coast during the XVII  1585: 192 sugar mills. 1629: 349 sugar mills

1500: Portuguese “discovered” Brazil. Here they found  cauim, a fermented from manioc, cashew or other fruits.

1512:  First sugar  

mill in Brazil  (Itamaracá)

1532:  Martim Afonso  

de Sousa:  São Vicente

Last quarter of the XVI century:  15.000 to 20.000 slaves per year to Bahia and Pernambuco (traded for cachaça in Africa)

Café Branco: White Coffee

1635:  Prohibition of cachaça

1660-1661:  Cachaça Revolt

First decades of XVII: (1630-1650)  Dutch were producing sugarcane spirit in Pernambuco.  Moved to the Caribbean: produced sugar and rum.

Cachaça is older than rum!

Bandeirantes: Anhanguera: Old Devil

During the the XVIII, population in Brazil increased 10 times,  from 300 thousands to 3 millions.

1790: End of the gold cicle. Paraty has 87 mills

1750-1770: Gold rush. Mining for gold in Minas Gerais, Goias, Bahia and Mato Grosso.

1808:  Royal Family comes to Brazil

1800-1930: Coffee, considered a more noble drink, replaces cachaça

AMAZÔNIA

1889:  Brazil becames a Republic. Cachaça is a symbol of the past

1924  Modernist

Movement: Cachaça as a symbol of Brazil

2001:  Cachaça officially Brazilian:  

the terms: Cachaça, Brasil e Cachaça do Brasil can only be used to describe the Brazilian spirit.

1994:  Capirinha registered at IBA

2012:  Cachaça is not Brazilian Rum!

RESPOSTA...

CRAFT CACHAÇA PRODUCTION

Julio C.: Comprei uma garrafa da "Cachaca X", ao degusta-la observei que a aguardente esta mal destilada com o teor alcoolico muito alto ,como tambem faltou o adocicamento,bem amarga.O lote e: 011 50615 - 17:15.Peco que me troque o produto,e envie a garrafa ao laboratorio para ver o que aconteceu com este lote meu telefone : 11-51816095.

Julio C.:

I bought a bottle of "Cachaça X", after tasting it I observed that the aguardente was with a high ABV, also it lacks of sweetness and it was very bitter. I ask to exchange the product and to have your cachaça analysed in a lab to see what happened.

Sugar  Cane

1.HARVEST

Crop goes from:  May to December

Different varieties:  SP80-1842, RB85-5156, CTC-5, Java Amarela, Cayana, Creoula…

Climate:  Tropical plant 18ºC to 35ºC (64.4ºF to 95ºF)

Brix:  18 to 24 brix

Cachaça:  1 ton = 130 liters

Industrial:  Harvested by machines. It is common  practice to burn the sugarcane crop before harvesting.  

Cana Java Cana Uva

2. MILLING

Fresh juice:  Pressing on the first 24-30 hours after harvested

3. FILTER

Clean juice  Separate the garapa (sugarcane juice) from bagasse

4. BRIX

Water + Garapa  Brix goes from 20-24 to 16-18

5. FERMENTATION

Duration:  14 to 24 hours

Yeasts varieties:  Wild yeasts, CA-11, CANAMAX, CAT-1, BG-1  (Saccharomyces cerevisiae)

Temperature:  28ºC to 32ºC

Alcohol:  Microorganisms transforms sugar  into Alcohol + CO2

Pé de Cuba  “Fermento Caipira”, tradicional recipe to  start the fermentation process: lemon, orange, corn, manioc, soy, rice

Wine:  7-9% ethanol

Industrial:  Use of chemicals, such as amonium sulphate, and antibiotics. fermentation period of 8 to 16 hours.  

Different alembics:  Sizes, shapes, materials, volumes

Eco-friendly  Bagasse can be used for fire

Direct fire or steam  Different forms of heating the pot

Alembic x Column  Copper pot (artisanal) x  Stainless steel column (industry)

6. DESTILLATION

Cachaça Caramelizada by Jean Ponce

Cachaça Leblon Special Reserve Disaronno Dry Vermouth Beet powder

6. DESTILLATIONHead, heart and tail  Copper pot still  Separates in 3 parts:  • Head (10%) and Tail (10%)  • Heart

Industrial:  Continuous distillation in stainless steel columns.  

Industrial:  There is no separation of the “head”, the “heart”, and the “tail”. We can say that the cachaça comes  out of distillation without the undesirable fractions.  

Industrial:  It is a standardized and controlled product, but loses in sensory complexity.

7. REST IN STAINLESS STILL

8. WOODS Different woods:  oak, amburana, bálsamo, ipê, sassafrás, castanheira, amendoim, jequitibá…  

Adds $$$  + economical value to rested and aged cachaça

Adds regional identity  Local traditions to use certain types of woods  to age cachaça

New colors, aromas and flavors  Add new sensorial qualities and eliminate  undesirable compounds

50%-60% alcohol  Lose alcohol and diluted with water to reach 38-48% alcohol  

Industrial: Usually not aged, and when aged, caramel color is added to give it a yellow hue.  

R E S T E DB a r r e l o f a n y s i z e a n d c a c h a ç a

i s r e s t e d f o r a n o n s p e c i f e d p e r i o d

A G E D :5 0 % o f t h e c a c h a ç a i s a g e d f o r a t l e a s t 1 y e a r i n b a r r e l s o f u p t o 7 0 0 l i t e r s ( 1 8 5 g a l ) c a p a c i t y

RESPOSTA...

TASTING

VISUALViscosity:  The “legs” of the cachaça formed in the glass

Colors:  Clear, gold, amber, yellow-green, mahogany…  

COLORS

Brazilian  Woods

Aroma Wheel  Spicy, Sweet, Floral, Fruity, Nutty, Toasted,  Vegetal, Fermented, Animal, Floral, Medicinal, Defects.

Sensations  Velvety, astringency, metallic, freshness,  burning, spiciness, woody, alcohol  

Sommelier Leandro Batista

FLAVORS

B L E N D : B Á L S A M O ( 4 5 % ) + J E Q U I T I B Á R O S A ( 5 0 % ) + A M B U R A N A ( 5 % )THE POWER OF THE BLEND

Dra. Aline Bortolleto Esalq - USP

North of Minas Gerais - Januária/Salinas (MG):  Use of high alcohol cachaça aged for many years in bálsamo and amburana

Serra Gaúcha (RS):  Selected yeasts. aged in oak. blends of oak and bálsamo

Coast of Bahia (BA):  Producers use a national wood called Ariribá

Brejo Paraibano (PA):  Producers use freijó to store high alcohol cachaça

North of Santa Catarina (SC):  Cachaça aged in grapia (many aguardentes from melasse)

Paraty (RG), some places at Estrada Real (MG), Vale do Paraíba (SP):  White Cachaças fermented with “Fermento Caipira”: corn or rice

São Paulo, Pernambuco, Ceará  Big industrial brands. SP (44%),  Pernambuco (12%), Ceará (12%)

Jambu (PA)  Cachaça with jambu

Cataia (PR, SP)  Cachaça with cataia

Azuladinha (RJ)  Cachaça with tangerine flowers

Consertada (SC)  Cachaça with coffee

2. Industrial  Pirassununga - SP

1. Cachaça Leblon Seleção Verde  Patos de Minas - MG

4.Cachaça Maria Izabel  Paraty - RJ

5. Cachaça Sanhaçu  Chã Grande - PE

6. Cachaça Weber Haus Ivoti - RS

7. Cachaça Anísio Santiago  Salinas - MG

3.Cachaça Século XVIII  Coronel Xavier Chaves- RJ

Cachaça Século XVIII

Cachaça Século XVIII

Producer:  Chaves FamilyWhere:  Coronel Xavier ChavesSince:  18th century (oldest alembic in Brazil)Production details:  Use corn to start the fermentation Cachaça rested 3 years in stone  (it is now forbidden in Brazil to do that)ABV:  45%

Cachaça Leblon

Cachaça Leblon Verde

Producer:  Maison LeblonWhere:  Patos de Minas - MGSince:  2005

Production details:  Natural  fermentation  Distill once in copper pot stillABV:  45%

Cachaça Maria Izabel

Cachaça Maria Izabel

Producer:  Maria Izabel

Where:  Paraty - RJSince:  1994Production details:  Only producer in Paraty that still uses wild yeasts and corn.  Rested in Jequitibá for 3 monthsABV:  44%

Cachaça Sanhaçu

Producer:  Barreto FamilyWhere:  Chã Grande - PESince:  2008Production details:  Organic production.  Cachaça rested 6 month in AmburanaABV:  40%

Cachaça Anísio Santiago

Producer:  Santiago Family

Where:  Salinas - MGSince:  1946

Production details:  Java and Uva sugarcane. 8-10 years rested in large Bálsamo vets.ABV:  47%

Cachaça Weber Haus Extra - Premium

Cachaça Weber Haus

Producer:  Family WeberWhere:  Ivoti - RSSince:  1948Production details:  Selected yeast. Aged 5 years in oak and 1 year in bálsamoABV:  38%

RESPOSTA...

THE  FUTURE  OF  CACHAÇA

70 chips from Amazon  new tests with wood and cachaça

O QUE É?

CONTACTS

Felipe Jannuzzi @felipejan felipe@mapadacachaca.com.br

MAPADACACHACA.COM.BR

THANK YOU. OBRIGADO!

@mapadacachaça

Tony Harion @tonyHarion tony@mixingbar.com

Jean Ponce @jeanponce7 poncejean@hotmail.com