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EcoCamp Patagonia - Torres del Paine Field Guide

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Page 1: EcoCamp Patagonia - Torres del Paine Field Guide
Page 2: EcoCamp Patagonia - Torres del Paine Field Guide

www.ecocamp.travel

Page 3: EcoCamp Patagonia - Torres del Paine Field Guide

Introduction 2

UNESCO Biosphere Reserve 3

Heritage 5 Mountains 7

Mammals 9

Birds 11

Flora 17

Astronomy 25

Glaciers 26

Mountaineering 27

Responsible travel at EcoCamp 29

Welcome to EcoCamp Patagonia! Our mission is to enrich people’s lives through their discovery of the exquisite flora & fauna and the wonderfully varied geographical landscapes at the end of the world in Torres del Paine National Park. We have designed this guide to help you identify the park’s mountains, glaciers, vegetation and wildlife and take a closer look at the native flowers, birds and mammals.

With our NEW Micro Safari we invite you on an interpretative trail through the miniature world of flora, giving you the chance to slow down and delve into the rich vegetation surrounding Ecocamp on a short trail.

This Field Guide is by no means a substitute for a specialist guide book, we simply wish to give you an educational mini guide to the park’s wildlife highlights. All species are marked with their scientific name and common name in English and Spanish. Species seen on the Micro Safari Trail are marked with

Warmest greetings,

(EcoCamp Manager)

Location Interpretative Trail

www.ecocamp.travel

Page 4: EcoCamp Patagonia - Torres del Paine Field Guide

In 1970 the 242,242 hectare park

was given the name Torres del Paine

National Park and in 1978 it was declared

a Biosphere reserve by UNESCO

owing to its unique ecology. The park

is administered by Chile’s National

Forestry Corporation (CONAF), who run

its visitor information centres. The park

encompasses ancient forests, glaciers,

lakes and rivers, 26 species of mammal

and 118 species of bird.

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Page 5: EcoCamp Patagonia - Torres del Paine Field Guide

The history of inhabitants in Torres del Paine dates back to over a thousand years ago,

when the first indigenous groups arrived in the region. The Tehuelche (Aonikenk) were

nomadic hunter-gatherers and as they migrated north through Patagonia they saw the

silhouette of a incredible rock formation in the distance and called it ‘Paine’, meaning

‘blue’ in their language (the predominant colour they saw in the distance). Other ancient

indigenous inhabitants include the nomadic hunters Selk’nam (Ona) and the Yaghan

(Yamana) people, who canoed between islands to collect food.

The Kaweskars (Alacalufes) were another group of nomadic Patagonian inhabitants

whose presence in Torres del Paine was to have a very special legacy over 500 years later

at EcoCamp Patagonia. They arrived by canoe in the 15th century and made no demands

on natural resources as they travelled from place to p l a c e ,

setting up and dismantling their semi-circular huts

built from simple materials, leaving no trace

behind. To keep warm they lit fires inside the

domes. EcoCamp’s domes are a tribute to the

Kaweskar’s way of life in the park.

Their first contact with European explorers

came in the 16th century and by 1880 Europeans had settled

in Patagonia in their quest for gold, furs and wool and had displaced, slaughtered and

brought disease to the Kaweskars who became almost completely extinct by the 1920’s.

The European settling marked the end of the indigenous era and the start of Chilean

‘Baqueano’ exploration. One of the most famous Baqueanos (Cowboys from southern

Chile) was Santiago Zamora, from central Chile, who arrived in Punta Arenas in 1868 and

integrated with colonists in the region. He spent his life exploring the region north of Punta

Arenas, including Torres del Paine, acting as a guide for travellers and explorers.

The first tourist to come to Torres del Paine was British Aristocrat Lady Florence Dixie, who arrived with her group in 1879. Led by Baqueanos, Lady Dixie explored the park and

published a book in 1880 called ‘Across Patagonia’, detailing her adventures in the region.

Following Lady Dixie’s publication, a steady flow of explorers and scientists came to the

region, interested in its geography and geology. This era also saw the arrival of missionaries

in the region such as the Italian Alberto Maria de Agostini, a passionate explorer and

mountaineer who had a very good relationship with the native Patagonians.the 1920’s.

The European settling marked the end of the indigenous era and the start of Chilean

‘Baqueano’ exploration. One of the most famous Baqueanos (Cowboys from southern

Chile) was Santiago Zamora, from central Chile, who arrived in Punta Arenas in 1868 and

integrated with colonists in the region. He spent his life exploring the region north of Punta

Arenas, including Torres del Paine, acting as a guide for travellers and explorers.

The first tourist to come to Torres del Paine was British Aristocrat Lady Florence Dixie, who arrived with her group in 1879. Led by Baqueanos,

Lady Dixie explored the park and published a book in 1880 called ‘Across

Patagonia’, detailing her adventures in the region. Following Lady Dixie’s

publication, a steady flow of explorers and scientists came to the region,

interested in its geography and geology. This era also saw the arrival

of missionaries in the region such as the Italian Alberto Maria de Agostini, a passionate explorer and mountaineer who had a very

good relationship with the native Patagonians. Lady Florence Dixie

Page 6: EcoCamp Patagonia - Torres del Paine Field Guide

Los Cuernos

The Paine Massif is a striking mountain

group with magnificent peaks crowning

the park’s heartland. Los Cuernos del

Paine (Paine Horns) sit in front of of Lake

Nordenskjold and are easily identifiable

with their dark sedimentary rock atop

lighter granite, dominating the view

from the southern sector of the park.

Paine Grande main peak Tronco Blanco

Aleta delTiburón

(2.730 mts.)(3.050 mts.)

(2.197 mts.)

(2.197 mts.)

(2.600 mts.)

BarilochePeak

Central Peak CerroCabeza

del Indio

CuernoNorte

CuernoPrincipal

TorreCentral

CuernoOriental

TorreSur

Cerro AlmiranteNieto

(2.230 mts.)

(2.400 mts.) (2.600 mts.)

(2.800 mts.) (2.640 mts.)(2.200 mts.)

(2.850 mts.)

Bader Valley

FRENCH VALLEY

French valley Torres del Paine

The 3 Torres are granite monoliths

eroded by glacial ice, leaving such a

distinct shape that the park was named

after them. EcoCamp is located at the

foot of the Torres, with a spectacular

view of the granite spires, at the start of

the Towers Base Trek leading up to the

famous look-out point.

Cerro Paine Grande has the park’s

highest peak while French Valley is home

to some of the massif’s most beautiful

rock formations.

www.ecocamp.travel

Page 7: EcoCamp Patagonia - Torres del Paine Field Guide

There are 26 species of mammal in Torres del Paine National Park. The most widely-

known are the Guanaco, the Puma and the South Andean Deer. The abundant guanaco,

whose population ranges between 2600 and 2900, is not camera shy and visitors have

ample opportunity to observe the herds who roam across the steppe. The puma, Chile’s

largest carnivore, is rarely sighted but is still very characteristic of the park and a big topic

of conversation among tourists. Mostly seen at night, EcoCamp guests have occassionally

been rewarded with a sighting on EcoCamp turf. The endangered South Andean deer,

Huemul, is the national symbol of Chile and receives special protection within the park.

Guanaco- Lama guanicoeFriendly camelid native to South America. Migrates through north- eastern sector of park in large groups, 120cm in height, 110-120kg in weight and spits when feeling threatened.

Dwarf Armadillo (Piche peludo patagónico)

- Zaedyus pichiySmall dark brown armadillo with strong

claws and thick shell, measuring just 30cm long with a 120mm tail.

Puma - Puma concolor patagonicoAlso known as the cougar, panther or mountain lion. Golden-coated, lives solitary life, is rarely seen and hunts at night. Grows up to 270cm, males weigh up to 90kg, females 60kg.

Red fox (Zorro Culpeo) - Lycalopex culpaeus

Largest fox in Chile, leads a solitary life, hunts at night. Grows

up to 120cm, including tail, weighs up to 12kg.

Patagonian Skunk (Chingue) - Conepatus humboldtii

Solitary nocturnal animal, with extended snout and strong nails. Lives in open grassy areas and, like all other skunks, is famous for the odor it emits

when feeling threatened.

South Andean Deer (Huemul) - Hippocamelus bisulcusOn Chile’s national coat of arms. Lives in small groups in high mountain forests, near Grey Lake. Reaches 85cm tall and weighs up to 100kg. Currently listed as an endangered specie, just 100 remain in the park.

Page 8: EcoCamp Patagonia - Torres del Paine Field Guide

Torres del Paine is home to 118 types of different bird species. Wading birds, such as the

Chilean Flamingo, live in the numeros lakes and lagoons across the park. There are 15

species of birds of prey, including the Andean Condor which lives high up in mountain rock

cavities. South America’s largest bird, the flightless Rhea (similar to an ostrich) lives down

on the Patagonian Steppe.

Black-necked Swan (Cisne de cuello negro) - Cygnus melanocoryphusMeasures up to 140cm, white body, black neck and grey bill with some red. In winter migrates north to warmer climates.

Gray fox (Zorro Chilla)- Lycalopex griseusSmaller than the Red Fox, the Gray Fox measures between 80-90cm, weighs up to 4kg.

Yellow-nosed Field Mouse (Laucha de nariz amarilla)

- Abrothrix xanthorhinusLong-haired grey and brown mouse with small

ears. Lives in the Patagonian steppe.

Andean Condor (Cóndor Andino)- Vultur gryphusWingspan of up to 3.2m, flies at altitudes over 4,500m at speeds of up to 56kph. Nests in high mountain rocks and circles overhead looking for carrion.Females are smaller than males, both are black and males have a red or black crest.

Magellanic Horned Owl (Tucúquere)- Bubo magellanicus

Smaller than the Great Horned Owl, with grey and brown feathers and two ear tufts.

Lesser Rhea (Ñandú) Rhea pennata

Flightless bird, similar to an ostrich, spreads out wings when running.

Those living on the Patagonian Steppe are known as Lesser Rhea.

Male

Female

Page 9: EcoCamp Patagonia - Torres del Paine Field Guide

Black-chested Buzzard Eagle (Águila Mora) - Geranoaetus melanoleucusPowerful build, long broad wings, lives at high altitudes in mountain ranges.

Chilean Flamingo (Flamenco Chileno)- Phoenicopterus chilensis Different from the two Phoenicoparrus flamingo species found in northern Chile. Has grey legs with pink knees and a largely black beak.

Austral Pygmy Owl (Chuncho)- Glaucidium nanum

Grey and brown body with white patches, short beak and large yellow

eyes. University of Chile’s mascot.

Black Faced Ibis (Bandurria)- Theristicus caudatus

Buff coloured neck, black feathers, white patch on wing and red bill & legs.

Magellanic Woodpecker (Carpintero Negro)

- Campephilus magellanicusOne of the world’s largest

woodpeckers. Males and females both largely black & males have

red crest.

Patagonian Sierra Finch (Cometocino Patagónico) - Phrygilus patagonicusBright yellow & grey, builds nests in thorny Calafate bushes in forest areas to protect offspring from predators.

Chilean Swallow (Golondrina Chilena)- Tachycineta meyeniGlossy blue and grey outer feathers with white underside and forked tail. Lives in abundance throughout Chile.

Rufous-collared Sparrow (Chincol)

- Zonotrichia capensisFound across Latin America, from

Mexico to Torres del Paine. Grey & black with red breast and white

throat.

Page 10: EcoCamp Patagonia - Torres del Paine Field Guide

South American Snipe (Becasina)- Gallinago paraguaiaeSmall wading bird, breeds in most of South America and migrates north during winter. Long straight bill, short legs & buff coloured feathers.

Upland Goose (Caiquén común)- Chloephaga picta

Wild Magellanic goose. Nests near water and sleeps in lakes safe from pre-

dators. Males white, females brown.

Common Diuca Finch (Diuca) - Diuca diucaLives in shrubland, sometimes at high altitude. Plump grey body, white throat & white patch on its tail feathers.

Spectacled duck (Pato Anteojillo) - Anas specularis

Dabbling duck with bronze speculum feathers. Sole member

of its genus Speculanas.

Male

Female

Chilean Flicker (Pitio)- Colaptes pitiusDark brown and white with distinctive feather pattern and wide face. Lives in Nothofagus forests.

Yellow-billed Pintail (Pato jergón grande)- Anas georgicaBrown head, long yellow bill, light brown body with darker brown outer feather. Subspecie Chilean Pintail also exists.

Red-gartered Coot (Tagua común)

- Fulica armillataLarge species of coot, 55cm in length.

Black with red garter separating yellow beak and yellow forehead shield.

Great Grebe (Huala)- Podiceps major

Biggest grebe specie reaching up to 80cm in length and 2kg in weight. Red neck, grey face, black back and white

underside.

Page 11: EcoCamp Patagonia - Torres del Paine Field Guide

Chilean Firebush (Notro)- Embothrium coccineumSmall evergreen tree, blooms every spring with deep red flowers.

Box-leaf Barberry (Calafate) - Berberis mycrophila

Symbol of Patagonia with yellow flowers and small bittersweet

blueberries used for jam & liquor.

Torres del Paine has 4 different types of habitat:

» Pre-Andean Scrubland

» Magellanic Forest

» Patagonian Steppe

» Andean Desert

Flora is listed under the habitat in which it is found.

Pre-Andean Scrubland This type of vegetation is found on river banks and lake edges, particularly in the

Sarmiento lake and Salto Grande (Great Falls) area and at the Nordenskjold viewpoint.

The plants housed in pre-Andean scrubland have adapted to save water and survive

the fierce Patagonian wind.

Prickly heath (Chaura) - Gaultheria mucronata

Evergreen shrub growing near Southern Beech (Nothofagus)

forests with edible plum-like fruit.

Holly-lead barberry (Michay)- Berberis ilicifoliaYellowy-orange flowers, dark shiny green leaves and dark purple berries.

Crimson Spire (Siete Camisas)- Escalonia rubraEvergreen shrub with white & pink flowers and long fruit capsules.

Dwarf barberry (Calafatlillo)- Berberis empetrifolia

Yellowy-orange flowers, fleshier lighter leaves than Holly-lead and

dark purple berries.

Page 12: EcoCamp Patagonia - Torres del Paine Field Guide

Porcelain Orchid (Orquide Porcelana)

- Chloraea magellanicaFleshy green stem, white flowers with green veins and fruit in late

summer.

Muddy shrub (Mata Barrosa) - Mullinum spinosum Shrub with hard branches, sharp leaves and clusters of yellow flowers.

Magellanic Deciduous forestDeciduous forest lining the park’s gorges and hillsides, receiving over 600 mm of rain per year. Found in the Grey lake and Grey glacier area, Laguna Azul, Laguna Amarga and French Valley. Home to different Southern Beech tree species (nothofagus), namely Lenga (Nothofagus pumilio), Coihue (Nothofagus betuloides) and Ñirre (Nothofagus antártica).

Christmas Bush (Mozaiquillo)- Baccharis Magellanica

Leafy shrub with white florets, reaching up to 40cm in height.

Evergreen Beech (Coihue)- Nothofagus betuloides

Evergreen tree reaching 25m, with glossy leaves. Grows in humid areas.

Dog Orchid (Palomita)- Condonorchis Lessonii Herb with erect stems and three white leaves arranged in a whorl with white inner petals dotted with purple.

Southern Beech (Ñirre)- Nothofagus antártica Deciduous tree, growing up to 20m (stunted growth in Andean desert). Native to southern Chile and Argentina and is one of the southernmost trees on earth.

Southern Beech (Lenga)- Nothofagus pumilio

Reaches up to 30m in height (stunted growth in Andean desert).

Grows in abundance in southern Chile and its wood is used for

construction due to its strength and durability.

Page 13: EcoCamp Patagonia - Torres del Paine Field Guide

Chinese Lantern (Farolito Chino)- Misodendrum punctulatumGrows as mistletoe on various species of Southern Beeches (Nothofagus). Colour changes from green to yellow to reddish brown throughout its life cycle.

Darwin’s fungus (Pan de Indio)- Cyttaria Darwinii

Parasite which appear on Southern Beech (Nothofagus) branches and can

lead to the breaking of branches or stems in strong wind. Certain species of

Cyttaria are used in gastronomy.

Fuchsia (Chilco)- Fuchsia magellanicaShrub with narrow branches and pendant-shaped red flowers with purple petals.

Old Man’s Beard (Barba de Viejo)- Usnea barbata

A specie of Lichen which grows on bark and branches on Southern Beeches (Nothofagus).

Patagonian steppe The flora in the Patagonian Steppe includes desert shrubs and tuft grasses (Coirón)

resistant to harsh winds & weather and bent-over bushes in pastureland. The steppe

is mainly in the Eastern sector of the park in areas where there are no trees due to the

poor humidity and harsh winds.

Black Shrub (Mata Negra)- Junellia TridensForms dense communities in wet areas in the steppe. Petals are white-pink and fruit is capsular.

Fachine (Mata Verde)- Chiliotrichum diffusum

Has white petals with yellow disc and its flowers were used

medicinally by the Patagonian natives due to their antiseptic

properties.

Winter Bark (Canelo) - Drimys Winteri

Sacred tree of the Mapuche, Chile’s indigenous population. Reaches up

to 20m with shiny green leaves.

Page 14: EcoCamp Patagonia - Torres del Paine Field Guide

Purple-spored Puffball (Hongo de polvera)

- Calvatia CiathiformisFleshy texture and cracked surface.

Edible when young, smooth and purple, but matures to become pear

shaped and darker in colour.

Paramela (Paramela)- Adesmia boronioides Shrub with bright yellow flowers growing in arid and exposed areas of the steppe.

Streaked Maiden (Campanilla)- Olsynium Biflorum

Herb with flowering stems and white flowers with small yellow fruit capsule.

Guanaco Bush (Neneo Macho)- Anarthrophyllum Desideratum Cushion-like shrub in rocky soils in the steppe with red-orange flowers.

The Devil’s Strawberry (Frutilla del Diablo) - Gunnera MagellanicaFound on hillsides at over 600m above sea level, with petialated leaves and bright red fruit.

Cushion Plant (Llaretilla) - Azorella Trifurcata

Herb with dense shrubs and yellow flowers, found in a wide

range of habitats including at high altitude.

Andean DesertSpecies in the Andean high desert are tolerant to low temperatures and high

precipitation but vegetation is very underdeveloped due to harsh weather conditions.

Very stunted trees and shrubs growing on rocks are characteristic of the landscape

and vegetation decreases with altitude due to the adverse weather conditions.

Lady’s slipper (Capachito)- Calceolaria bifloraHerb with leaves in rosette and distinctive yellow slipper-shaped flowers.

Page 15: EcoCamp Patagonia - Torres del Paine Field Guide

On a cloudless night, Torres del Paine visitors can enjoy a spectacular array of

stars in the Patagonian night sky. In particular the Southern Cross (the brightest

constellation in the southern hemisphere) and Orion are visible from the park and

can be admired through EcoCamp dome ceilings before falling asleep.

Southern Cross (Crux)The Cruz forms a distinctive cross shape and is seen from the southern hemisphere all year round.

OrionVisible from the southern hemisphere in the summer months, Rigel, its brightest star, is known as the hunter and the 3 stars across its middle are known as Orion’s belt

to South

Torres del Paine is home to many large glaciers, including the tip of the immense

Southern Patagonian Ice Field, the second largest ice field in the world at 16,800

km² in size. This Ice Field is the southern section of the Patagonian Ice Sheet which

covered all of southern Chile during the last glacial period tens of thousands of years

ago. 350km in length, the Southern Patagonian Ice Field covers approximately 14,000

km² in Chile and 2,500 km² in Argentina.

4 Dickson – Located in Torres del Paine on the northern side of the massif. 71 km² in size.

3 Perito Moreno – Located in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentina. Spectacular ruptures every 4/5 years.

2 Upsala – Located in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentina. In very fast retreat.

1 Viedma – Located in Los Glaciares National Park in Argentina. Flows into Lake Viedma.

5 Grey – Located in Torres del Paine. 270 km² in size, calves into Grey Lake.

6 Tyndall/Geike – Located in Torres del Paine. 331 km² in size.

6

1

2

3

Torres del Paine National Park

7 Los Perros – Located on the northern side of the Paine massif, visible on the Paine Circuit

8 Olguín – Located on Cerro Catedral, connected to Los Perros glaciar

9 French Glacier – On the backside of Cerro Paine Grande, visible from French Valley

Glaciers in the Paine Massif:

Glaciers of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field

www.ecocamp.travel

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Page 16: EcoCamp Patagonia - Torres del Paine Field Guide

Torres del Paine has been the scene of many important

mountaineering feats. In 2011 the first Chilean group

(María Paz Ibarra, Camilo Rada & Sebastián Irarrázaval)

made it to the 3,050m peak of Cerro Paine Grande, the

park’s highest peak, in a difficult technical assent. Only two

groups had previously reached the summit – an Italian

group in December 1957 led by Count Guido Monzino and

a French-Argentine duo in 2000 (Rolando Garibotti &

Bruno Sourzac).

The three Torres del Paine provide big climbing challenges. The 2260m Torre Norte (North

Tower) summit was first reached by Italian Guido Monzino and his team in January 1958.

British Chris Bonington and Don Whillans reached the

2460m peak of the Central Tower in 1963, narrowly beating

Italian Armando Aste and his team to the summit. Aste

wasn’t about to lose the race again and made sure he beat

the British to the 2500m South Tower summit later that year.

In 1968 a British team led by Gordon Hibberd reached the

3000m summit of Fort Hill in French Valley, in the biggest

mountaineering feat since the Towers’ conquest.

More recent triumphs include Californian Dave Turner’s

34 day ascent of Cerro Escudo (Shield Hill) in 2008 and a

Belgian-American trio’s (Nico Favresse, Seán Villanueva & Ben Ditto) 13 day free ascent of Torre Central (Central

Tower) in 2011 via the South African Route.

Guido Monzino

The Ultimate AdventureTraversing the 3 towers in 51 hours

Steve Schneider, a 42 year old mountaineer from Oakland California famous for his El

Capitain records in the Yosemite Valley, set out to break the ultimate world record: Climb

all the three Paine towers in one go, in the minimum time possible, alone! With 3 failed

attempts under his belt he began his 4th try at 2am on February 16th 2002 - this would be

his last try.

Apart from an immense physical condition and solid years of

experience, a crucial factor was the weather. Steve was lucky enough

to be accompanied by clear skies as he scaled the North Tower via the

Monzino route and the Central Tower via the Bonington-Whillans route in just 15 hours. He began his descent and at 10.30pm finally lay

down for some rest after more than 21 hours on his feet.

The finale was yet to come - the most difficult climb up the South Tower. Using the Aste route he made it up to the summit after just 9 hours! Quick as ever Steve began his decent

after just a 15 minute rest at the top and arrived back at basecamp at 6am the following

morning. Exhilarated but exhausted he fell asleep, 51 hours after he’d headed off to

complete the world’s first traverse of the Torres del Paine Towers!

Page 17: EcoCamp Patagonia - Torres del Paine Field Guide

Sketch By EcoCamp Founder Javier Lopez

Semi-spherical structure- Minimizes external surface area and

temperature exchange through walls;- Ensures uniform distribution of wind

stress;- Maximum internal space for given outer surface area;

Renewable Materials- Pinewood from plantations;- Furniture made of wicker;- All ben linen, rugs and curtains made

from natural fibres;

Harmonious exterior- Green exterior to blend into

environment;- Limited height to ensure natural fusion;

Thick, Insulated Walls- Outer PVC waterproof layer and thick

polyester insulation cushion;- Organic fibre fire-treated interior walls;- Galvanized iron geodesic structure to

withstand wind stress;

Raised Platform & open Walkways- Minimizes foundations and

excavations and further terrain disruption;

- Animals can roam around freely and walk underneath;

- Winds circulate underneath clearing humidity;

- Guests exposed to the elements as they walk between domes;

Wood stove - Prevents use of diesel fuels and

recycles fallen wood;

Composting Chamber- World’s southern-most composting device,

and the first in the hotel industry in the whole of Patagonia and Chile;

- Heated to ensure bacteria remains active;- Liquids and solids separated, and solid

waste composted;

Energy source- EcoCamp uses Solar panels to obtain 40% of its energy

and a micro-hydro turbine to obtain 60%;- In summer Patagonia receives up to 17 hours of sunlight

making solar energy a powerful source;

Skylight Windows

- Allows guests to follow natural light patterns;- Star gazing potential at night;- Utilize natural light, saving electricity;

Recycling- Separation at the source: organic,

metals, paper, glass and dangerous or toxic materials;

- Removal of all non-organic materials;- Organic material fed to neighbouring

pig farm;

EcoCamp works to conserve the virgin wilderness of the park, taking care of its diverse vegetation and protecting fauna through the design and construction of its eco-friendly domes.

Propane Heater

- Used for heating shower water - Used to keep the bathroom warm on cold nights