WARP AND WEFT KNITTINGWARP AND WEFT KNITTING

BASIC KNITTINGBASIC KNITTING

By Sunil Talekar, Student handout-SOFT -Pune

WEAVING-WARPING PROCESSWEAVING-WARPING PROCESS

•Warping- Warping- A process of transfer the warp yarn from the single yarn A process of transfer the warp yarn from the single yarn packages to an even sheet of yarn representing hundreds of ends packages to an even sheet of yarn representing hundreds of ends and then wound onto a warp beam. and then wound onto a warp beam.

WEAVING-SIZING PROCESSWEAVING-SIZING PROCESS•Sizing/slashing- Sizing/slashing- A process to give the strength to the yarn make it A process to give the strength to the yarn make it smoother and lubricate it (no effect on subsequent process or smoother and lubricate it (no effect on subsequent process or resulting fabric), also reduce the abrasion by give it through the resulting fabric), also reduce the abrasion by give it through the section of the slasher.section of the slasher.

WEAVING-DRAW IN PROCESSWEAVING-DRAW IN PROCESS

Draw-in- A process of draw every warp yarns through its dropper,  Draw-in- A process of draw every warp yarns through its dropper,  headle eyes and reed dent. [3] headle eyes and reed dent. [3]

WEAVING-TIE IN PROCESSWEAVING-TIE IN PROCESS

•Tie-in- Tie-in- A process of tying each of a new beam to its A process of tying each of a new beam to its corresponding end of the old beam when mass producing the corresponding end of the old beam when mass producing the same fabric. same fabric.

What is Knitting?What is Knitting?Knitting is a method by which thread or yarn may be Knitting is a method by which thread or yarn may be turned into cloth or other fine crafts. Knitted fabric turned into cloth or other fine crafts. Knitted fabric consists of consecutive loops, called stitches. As each row consists of consecutive loops, called stitches. As each row progresses, a new loop is pulled through an existing loop. progresses, a new loop is pulled through an existing loop. The active stitches are held on a needle until another The active stitches are held on a needle until another loop can be passed through them. This process eventually loop can be passed through them. This process eventually results in a final product, often a garment.results in a final product, often a garment.

No of threads required for knitting?No of threads required for knitting?

KNITTINGKNITTING

KNIT VS WOVENKNIT VS WOVENKNIT FABRICKNIT FABRIC WOVEN FABRICWOVEN FABRICINTERLOOPING YARNS TO CREATE INTERLOOPING YARNS TO CREATE FABRICFABRIC

INTERLACING YARNS TO CREATE INTERLACING YARNS TO CREATE FABRICFABRIC

CHEAPER TO PRODUCECHEAPER TO PRODUCE EXPENSIVE TO PRODUCEEXPENSIVE TO PRODUCE

REQUIRE HIGHER QUALITY YARNSREQUIRE HIGHER QUALITY YARNS CAN USE ANY YARNCAN USE ANY YARNYARNS MUST BE UNIFORM SO THAT YARNS MUST BE UNIFORM SO THAT THIN SPOTS DON’T FORM ON THE THIN SPOTS DON’T FORM ON THE FABRICFABRIC

CAN NOT FORM THIN MARKS CAN NOT FORM THIN MARKS

KNIT FABRIC IS LESS OPAQUEKNIT FABRIC IS LESS OPAQUE HIGH OPAQUEHIGH OPAQUE

ALLOWS FOR STRETCH + RECOVERY ALLOWS FOR STRETCH + RECOVERY

AS BODY MOVESAS BODY MOVES

LESS STRETCHLESS STRETCH

REQUIRES THICKER AND/OR HEAVIER REQUIRES THICKER AND/OR HEAVIER YARN TO PROVIDE EQUAL COVER TO YARN TO PROVIDE EQUAL COVER TO THAT OF A WOVENTHAT OF A WOVEN

EVEN NORMAL THICKNESS YARN CAN EVEN NORMAL THICKNESS YARN CAN

GIVE HIGHER FABRIC COVERGIVE HIGHER FABRIC COVER

WRINKLE RECOVERY SUPERIORWRINKLE RECOVERY SUPERIOR NEED TO TREAT FOR WRINKLE FREE NEED TO TREAT FOR WRINKLE FREE

QUALITYQUALITY

SHRINK MORE THAN WOVENSSHRINK MORE THAN WOVENS LESS SHRINKAGELESS SHRINKAGE

KNIT VS WOVENKNIT VS WOVENFABRICFABRIC WOVEN FABRICWOVEN FABRIC

LENGTHWISE STITCHES ARE CALLED LENGTHWISE STITCHES ARE CALLED

“RIBS” AND THE CROSSWISE STITCHES “RIBS” AND THE CROSSWISE STITCHES

ARE CALLED “COURSE” OR ARE CALLED “COURSE” OR

“CROSSGRAIN”“CROSSGRAIN”

LENGTHWISE STITCHES ARE CALLED LENGTHWISE STITCHES ARE CALLED

“GRAIN” AND THE CROSSWISE “GRAIN” AND THE CROSSWISE

STITCHES ARE CALLED STITCHES ARE CALLED

“CROSSGRAIN”“CROSSGRAIN”

THE MOST STRETCH IS EITHER IN THE THE MOST STRETCH IS EITHER IN THE

CROSSGRAIN OR THE BIASCROSSGRAIN OR THE BIAS

THE MOST STRETCH IS ALWAYS ON THE MOST STRETCH IS ALWAYS ON

THE BIAS ( DIAGONAL STRETCH)THE BIAS ( DIAGONAL STRETCH)

GENERALLY HAVE MORE STRETCH AND GENERALLY HAVE MORE STRETCH AND

NATURAL GIVENATURAL GIVE

REQUIRE EASE WHEN SEWINGREQUIRE EASE WHEN SEWING

MOLD AND FIT THE CONTOURS OF THE MOLD AND FIT THE CONTOURS OF THE

BODY BETTERBODY BETTER

LOOK GOOD WITH PLEATS AND LOOK GOOD WITH PLEATS AND

SHARP CORNERSSHARP CORNERS

COOL AND BREATHABLECOOL AND BREATHABLE THICK AND WIND RESISTANTTHICK AND WIND RESISTANT

WRINKLE RESISTANTWRINKLE RESISTANT HOLDS A CREASE WELLHOLDS A CREASE WELL

KNIT VS WOVENKNIT VS WOVENFABRICFABRIC WOVEN FABRICWOVEN FABRIC

EDGES CURL AND SOME KNITS RUN EDGES CURL AND SOME KNITS RUN

(THINK NYLON PANTY HOSE)(THINK NYLON PANTY HOSE)

EDGES ARE PRONE TO RAVELEDGES ARE PRONE TO RAVEL

NO SEAM FINISH IS REQUIRED, NO SEAM FINISH IS REQUIRED,

ALTHOUGH OPTIONALALTHOUGH OPTIONAL

REQUIRES SEAM FINISHING, LIKE REQUIRES SEAM FINISHING, LIKE

SERGING, TO PREVENT RAVELSERGING, TO PREVENT RAVEL

REQUIRES STRETCH STICHES, LIKE ZIG REQUIRES STRETCH STICHES, LIKE ZIG

ZAGSZAGS

EASIEST TO SEW ON AND FEED EASIEST TO SEW ON AND FEED

THROUGH A SEWING MACHINETHROUGH A SEWING MACHINE

Types of basic KnitsTypes of basic Knits

WARP KNITTINGWARP KNITTING

TYPES OF KNITTINGTYPES OF KNITTING

WEFT KNITTINGWEFT KNITTING

JERSEY KNITSJERSEY KNITS•Also called single knitsAlso called single knits•Economical to produceEconomical to produce•Knit stitches on front/ Purl stitches on backKnit stitches on front/ Purl stitches on back

RIB KNITSRIB KNITS•Knit and purl wales alternate across widthKnit and purl wales alternate across width

PURL KNITPURL KNIT•Alternate courses of knit and purl stitches on both Alternate courses of knit and purl stitches on both sides of the fabricsides of the fabric

WEFT KNITTINGWEFT KNITTING

FLAT KNITTINGFLAT KNITTING•Polo t shirt collar and cuffPolo t shirt collar and cuff•Sweaters Sweaters •Scarves Scarves

WRAP KNITTINGWRAP KNITTING•LingerieLingerie•Home furnishingHome furnishing•Net fabric garments and related itemsNet fabric garments and related items

TYPES OF KNITTINGTYPES OF KNITTING

TYPES OF KNITTINGTYPES OF KNITTING

Flat bed machine can manufacture,Flat bed machine can manufacture,•Woolen fabricWoolen fabric•Full cardiganFull cardigan•Half cardiganHalf cardigan•MilanoMilano•Half MilanoHalf Milano•Rib structureRib structure

FLAT BED KNITTINGFLAT BED KNITTING

Circular knitting machine can Circular knitting machine can manufacture,manufacture,•T shirt jersey fabricT shirt jersey fabric•Pique fabricPique fabric•Rib Rib •InterlockInterlock•SocksSocks•Lycra blend fabricLycra blend fabric

CIRCULAR KNITTINGCIRCULAR KNITTING

STITCHSTITCH

The loop of yarn formed by the knitting processThe loop of yarn formed by the knitting processKnitKnit

GAGE OR GAUGEGAGE OR GAUGEthe density of knitting machine needles, and the number of knitting the density of knitting machine needles, and the number of knitting needles per inch (approx. 2.54cm). needles per inch (approx. 2.54cm). The smaller the figure, the coarser the stitch, and vice versaThe smaller the figure, the coarser the stitch, and vice versa

KNITTING TERMINOLOGYKNITTING TERMINOLOGY

COURSESCOURSESA series of successive loops laying crosswise in the A series of successive loops laying crosswise in the FabricFabric

FACE/BACKFACE/BACKJust like a woven fabric, there is a face and a back to Just like a woven fabric, there is a face and a back to the knitted fabricthe knitted fabric

CUTCUTThe fineness of weft knits made on a circular knitting The fineness of weft knits made on a circular knitting MachineMachineThe higher the gauge or cut number, the finer the The higher the gauge or cut number, the finer the fabricfabric

KNITTING TERMINOLOGYKNITTING TERMINOLOGY

The knitted loop structureThe knitted loop structureThese are termed ‘courses’ and ‘wales’ respectively.These are termed ‘courses’ and ‘wales’ respectively.A COURSEA COURSEA course is a predominantly horizontal row of needle A course is a predominantly horizontal row of needle loops (in an upright fabric as knitted) produced by loops (in an upright fabric as knitted) produced by adjacent needles during the same knitting cycleadjacent needles during the same knitting cycle

KNITTED LOOP STRUCTUREKNITTED LOOP STRUCTURE

The knitted loop structureThe knitted loop structureA WALEA WALEA wale is a predominantly vertical column of A wale is a predominantly vertical column of intermeshed needle loops generally produced by the intermeshed needle loops generally produced by the same needle knitting at successive (not necessarily all) same needle knitting at successive (not necessarily all) knitting cycles. knitting cycles.

KNITTED LOOP STRUCTUREKNITTED LOOP STRUCTURE

• Single jersey is the simplest to knit and it can be produced either on Single jersey is the simplest to knit and it can be produced either on circular or flat machines by means of one set of needles which draw circular or flat machines by means of one set of needles which draw their loops to only one side of the fabric.their loops to only one side of the fabric.

• The fabric has one appearance on the face side and a different one The fabric has one appearance on the face side and a different one on the reverse. The side on which the straight parts of the stitches on the reverse. The side on which the straight parts of the stitches appear in V formation is called the face side ( Technical Face) and the appear in V formation is called the face side ( Technical Face) and the reverse side ( Technical Back ) has twin rows of opposed semi circles.reverse side ( Technical Back ) has twin rows of opposed semi circles.

SINGLE JERSEY OR PLAIN FABRICSINGLE JERSEY OR PLAIN FABRIC

• Simplest knit structure.Simplest knit structure.• Face side smooth and sheen.Face side smooth and sheen.• Back side rough and dull.Back side rough and dull.• Lighter fabric.Lighter fabric.• Economical.Economical.• Easily ravels at both the ends.Easily ravels at both the ends.• Highly extensible in length and width.Highly extensible in length and width.• The fabric curls towards the face at the top and bottom The fabric curls towards the face at the top and bottom

and towards the back at the sides.and towards the back at the sides.• Laddering is very common in these fabrics.Laddering is very common in these fabrics.• Knitted loops in plain knit fabrics tend to distort easily Knitted loops in plain knit fabrics tend to distort easily

under tension which helps to give a form fitting and under tension which helps to give a form fitting and comfort due to property of elastic.comfort due to property of elastic.

PROPERTIES OF SINGLE JERSEYPROPERTIES OF SINGLE JERSEY

End Uses of Jersey Knits;End Uses of Jersey Knits;

•SheetsSheets•SweatersSweaters•T- s h i r t sT- s h i r t s•Men’s underwearMen’s underwear•DressesDresses•HosieryHosiery

USE OF SINGLE JERSEYUSE OF SINGLE JERSEY

Jersey Knit Variations Jersey Knit Variations

Fleece Fleece IntarsiaIntarsiaJacquard knitsJacquard knitsKnitted terry Knitted terry Knitted velourKnitted velourLisleLislePlaited knitsPlaited knitsSilver-pile knitsSilver-pile knits

VARIATIONS OF SINGLE JERSEYVARIATIONS OF SINGLE JERSEY

• A fabric in which both back and face A fabric in which both back and face loops occur along the course, but all loops occur along the course, but all the loops contained with in any wale the loops contained with in any wale are of the same typesare of the same types

• A rib structure implies a knitted A rib structure implies a knitted fabric with face and back loops fabric with face and back loops occurring in the same courses but occurring in the same courses but not in the same walenot in the same wale

• Rib fabric can be produced on V – Rib fabric can be produced on V – bed machine and footwear machine.bed machine and footwear machine.

RIB FABRICRIB FABRIC

• Rib is produced by two sets of needles being alternately set Rib is produced by two sets of needles being alternately set orated between each other. orated between each other.

• The simplest rib in (1 * 1) rib The simplest rib in (1 * 1) rib • It is now normally knitted with two sets of latch needles and It is now normally knitted with two sets of latch needles and

known as double jersey fabric. known as double jersey fabric. • Rib has a vertical cord appearance Rib has a vertical cord appearance • Relaxed 1 x 1 rib is twice as thick and half the width of an Relaxed 1 x 1 rib is twice as thick and half the width of an

equivalent plain fabric. equivalent plain fabric. • 1 x 1 rib normally relaxes by 30% compound with its knitting 1 x 1 rib normally relaxes by 30% compound with its knitting

width. width. • Rib cannot be unroved from the end knitted first because the Rib cannot be unroved from the end knitted first because the

sinker loops are securely anchored by the cross meshing sinker loops are securely anchored by the cross meshing between face and reverse loop. between face and reverse loop.

• It is used for loops for socks, cuffs of sleeves, rib bordery for It is used for loops for socks, cuffs of sleeves, rib bordery for garments.garments.

PROPERTIES OF RIB FABRICPROPERTIES OF RIB FABRIC

End Uses of Rib KnitsEnd Uses of Rib Knits

CollarsCollarsNecklinesNecklinesCuffsCuffsBottom edges of Bottom edges of sweaterssweatersKnit hatsKnit hatsMen’s hosieryMen’s hosiery

USE OF RIB FABRICUSE OF RIB FABRIC

Double knitsDouble knitsSometimes called double Sometimes called double jerseysjerseysThicker than jersey knitsThicker than jersey knitsTwo-way stretchTwo-way stretchVery stable – will not Very stable – will not ladderladderApparel and Upholstery Apparel and Upholstery usedused

USE OF RIB FABRICUSE OF RIB FABRIC

• This 2-sided fabric has slightly noticeable ribs and 2-way This 2-sided fabric has slightly noticeable ribs and 2-way mechanical stretch. mechanical stretch.

• It can be 100% polyester or 100% cotton, but is often a It can be 100% polyester or 100% cotton, but is often a blend of the two. blend of the two.

• More cotton content will make it feel heavier. Pilling in More cotton content will make it feel heavier. Pilling in knits depends on the length of the fibers used, not on the knits depends on the length of the fibers used, not on the Polyester contentPolyester content

INTERLOCK FABRICINTERLOCK FABRIC

• Both sides of the fabric have an appearance like face side of the Both sides of the fabric have an appearance like face side of the single jersey fabric. single jersey fabric.

• The structure do nor curl at edges when laid flat on surfaceThe structure do nor curl at edges when laid flat on surface• Horizontal and vertical stripes can be produced by using coloured Horizontal and vertical stripes can be produced by using coloured

yarnsyarns• The fabric ravels only from the end knitted lastThe fabric ravels only from the end knitted last• The rate of production is low.The rate of production is low.• Interlock the technical face of plain on both sides so the appearance Interlock the technical face of plain on both sides so the appearance

of face and back are same.of face and back are same.• The Wales of each side re exactly apposite to each other and are The Wales of each side re exactly apposite to each other and are

locked together.locked together.• Widthwise and length elongations are approximately the same as Widthwise and length elongations are approximately the same as

single jersey .single jersey .• The fabric can be unraveled from the knitted last.The fabric can be unraveled from the knitted last.• Fabric thickness is approximately twice than that of single jerseyFabric thickness is approximately twice than that of single jersey..

PROPERTIES OF INTERLOCK FABRICPROPERTIES OF INTERLOCK FABRIC

Double knitsDouble knitsSweat shirtsSweat shirtsTable matTable mat

USE OF INTERLOCK FABRICUSE OF INTERLOCK FABRIC

PURL FABRICPURL FABRIC

PROPERTIES OF PURLPROPERTIES OF PURL

• Both sides of the fabric are similar in appearance to the reverse side Both sides of the fabric are similar in appearance to the reverse side of the single jersey fabricof the single jersey fabric

• Ravels from both endsRavels from both ends• Twice the thickness of the plain jerseyTwice the thickness of the plain jersey• Rate of production is lowRate of production is low• Almost equal extensibility in length and widthAlmost equal extensibility in length and width• Most suitable for children’s garments, blankets shawls and scarf etc.Most suitable for children’s garments, blankets shawls and scarf etc.• Purl is reversible structure the both side appearance are same.Purl is reversible structure the both side appearance are same.• Extensibility is same as all direction.Extensibility is same as all direction.• There is no curling tendency.(it does not curl at the edges.There is no curling tendency.(it does not curl at the edges.• The fabric will run in the wale direction starting from either end.The fabric will run in the wale direction starting from either end.• The fabric tends to be two or three times thicker than single jersey.The fabric tends to be two or three times thicker than single jersey.• There are two types of purl needle bed machine: flat bed purl and There are two types of purl needle bed machine: flat bed purl and

circular purls.circular purls.

End Uses for Purl End Uses for Purl KnitsKnits

Infant and children’s Infant and children’s wearwearSweatersSweatersScarvesScarves

USE OF PURL FABRICUSE OF PURL FABRIC

Warp KnitsWarp Knits•Second major category of knit fabricsSecond major category of knit fabrics•Characterized by vertical loopsCharacterized by vertical loops•More resistant to laddering than weft knitsMore resistant to laddering than weft knits•Usually done on flat knitting machineUsually done on flat knitting machine•Two main types of warp knitting machineTwo main types of warp knitting machine(name = machine and fabric name)(name = machine and fabric name) * Tr i c o t * Tr i c o t * Raschel * Raschel

WARP KNITTINGWARP KNITTING

Characteristics of Tricot KnitsCharacteristics of Tricot KnitsGood elasticityGood elasticityBest of warp knitsBest of warp knitsInexpensive and quick to produceInexpensive and quick to produceCurls along crosswise edgeCurls along crosswise edgeGood air and water permeabilityGood air and water permeabilitySoftSoftCrease resistantCrease resistantGood drapeabilityGood drapeability

WARP KNITTINGWARP KNITTING

End Uses for Tricot KnitsEnd Uses for Tricot KnitsLingerieLingerieNightwearNightwearBlousesBlousesDressesDressesUsed as a backing fabric in multi-Used as a backing fabric in multi-component structurescomponent structuresLimited interior uses because of high Limited interior uses because of high elongationelongation

WARP KNITTINGWARP KNITTING

Tricot Knit VariationsTricot Knit VariationsBrushed tricotBrushed tricotSatin tricotSatin tricotTricot-net fabricsTricot-net fabricsTricot upholsteryTricot upholsteryTulleTulle

WARP KNITTINGWARP KNITTING

Raschel KnitsRaschel KnitsSimilar to Tricot KnitsSimilar to Tricot KnitsGreater diversity in designGreater diversity in designDifferences between Raschel and Tricot Differences between Raschel and Tricot KnitsKnitsRaschel has:Raschel has:More textureMore textureOpen spacesOpen spacesMade from heavier yarnsMade from heavier yarns

WARP KNITTINGWARP KNITTING

Variations and End Uses of Raschel KnitsVariations and End Uses of Raschel KnitsWarp knittedWarp knittedFine laces and netsFine laces and netsHeavy carpetsHeavy carpetsThermal underwear with a waffle effectThermal underwear with a waffle effectPower-net fabrics for swimsuits and Power-net fabrics for swimsuits and foundationsfoundationsHeavy blanketsHeavy blanketsMay resemble hand crocheted fabricsMay resemble hand crocheted fabrics

WARP KNITTINGWARP KNITTING

Source, Stoll, Shima seiki, Mayer and CieSource, Stoll, Shima seiki, Mayer and Cie