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Level 1 Diploma in Carpentry and Joinery 1 of 21 © 2013 City and Guilds of London Institute. All rights reserved. Unit 115: Produce woodworking joints Marking out tools

Marking Out Tools powerpoint

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Page 1: Marking Out Tools powerpoint

Level 1 Diploma in Carpentry and Joinery

1 of 21© 2013 City and Guilds of London Institute. All rights reserved.

Unit 115: Produce woodworking joints

Marking out tools

Page 2: Marking Out Tools powerpoint

Level 1 Diploma in Carpentry and Joinery

2 of 21© 2013 City and Guilds of London Institute. All rights reserved.

Aims and objectivesAim:

Introduce learners to marking out tools.

Objectives:

• List at least three types of marking out tools.

• State how to check for accuracy in marking out tools.

• List at least one method of storing marking out tools.

Page 3: Marking Out Tools powerpoint

Level 1 Diploma in Carpentry and Joinery

3 of 21© 2013 City and Guilds of London Institute. All rights reserved.

CategoriesMarking tools are grouped into the following categories:• Measuring tools• Marking out tools• Cutting tools

• Dressing tools

• Drilling and boring tools• Plumbing and levelling tools• Clamps and holding devices

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Measuring toolsFolding rules are used in the joiner’s shop or on site.

They are:• 1m long when unfolded • Made of wood or plastic

• Can show both metric and imperial units

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Measuring toolsRetractable steel tape measures (spring tapes).

Available in a variety of lengths, eg 3m, 5m,15m, 25m.

Useful for setting out large areas or marking long lengths of timber and other materials.

Have a hook at right angles at the start of the tape to hold over the edge of the material. On better tapes, this should slide, so that it is out of the way when not measuring from an edge.

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Measuring toolsMetal steel rules

Often referred to as bar rules.

Used for fine, accurate measurement work.

Generally 300mm or 600mm long.

Can also serve as a short straight edge for marking out.

The rule can also be used on its edge for greater accuracy.

Page 7: Marking Out Tools powerpoint

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Try squareTri-squares are used to mark and test angles at 90° and to check that surfaces are at right angles to each other.

They should be regularly checked for accuracy. To do this, place the square against any straight-edged spare timber and mark a line at right angles. Turn the square over and draw another line from the same point. If the tool is accurate, the two lines will be on top of each other.

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Sliding bevelThe sliding bevel is an adjustable try square, used for marking and testing angles other than 90°.

When in use, the blade is set at the required angle then locked by either a thumbscrew or set screw in the stock.

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Combination square

This does the job of a try square, mitre square and spirit level all in one.

It is used for checking right angles and 45° angles, and also that items are level.

It has an adjustable blade for drawing parallel lines.

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Set mitreThe set mitre is sometimes incorrectly known as a mitre square (how can a mitre be square?), and can only be used to mark 45° angles.

It is rarely purchased nowadays as the combination square can do the job of this and a try square.

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Marking toolsMarking gauge

The marking gauge consists of a hardwood stock and stem, a pin and thumb screw. Better quality tools have brass inlays to reduce wear on contact surfaces. The distance between the stock and pin can be set either using a rule or, if being used to find the centre of a piece of timber, by the following method:

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Marking toolsCombination gauge

A combination gauge is very similar to a mortice gauge, but with an additional pin on the opposite side of the stem so that it can be used as a marking gauge.

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Marking toolsCutting gauge

A cutting gauge is the same as a marking gauge except that instead of a pin it has a cutting knife and a wedge to hold it in place. It is used if a parallel gauge line is required across the grain, eg when marking out dovetails. The knife severs the fibres of the grain leaving a clean cut. A marking gauge would pull the fibres of the grain up, leaving an unacceptable finish.

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Marking a mortice

Determine the position of the mortice – usually near the centre of the timber section, but can be moved if required.

The closer to the centre the mortice is, the stronger the joint.

On smaller stock, the mortice is usually 1/3 the thickness of the timber, but will be dictated by the size of mortice chisel available.

The mortice gauge will be set to the chisel size – ‘12mm’ chisels can vary in actual size and may be between 11mm and 13mm.

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Marking a mortice

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Marking a morticeThe following step-by-step guide shows you how to find the centre of a timber section.

Step 2: Place on the timber and make two holes.

Step 1: Set the mortice gauge to the chisel size.

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Marking a mortice

Step 3: Turn the timber over and repeat. If the holes fall in the same place, the mortice will be in the centre.

Step 4: If the holes do not line up, adjust the gauge to fall between the holes you have made and the gauge will be in the centre.

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Marking a morticeWhen gauging, roll the pins into the timber at one end of the mortice/tenon, push or pull the gauge from the other end until the pins fall into the two holes.

This automatically stops the gauge lines from ‘overrunning’ the joint, damaging the inside face and showing after it is assembled.

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Marking a mortice

Step 1: Mark the mortice. Always mark out from the face.

Step 2: Make a hole at the end of theline you are going to mark, then gaugeinto the hole.

Page 20: Marking Out Tools powerpoint

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20 of 21© 2013 City and Guilds of London Institute. All rights reserved.

Aims and objectivesAim:

Introduce learners to marking out tools.

Objectives:

• List at least three types of marking out tools.

• State how to check for accuracy in marking out tools.

• List at least one method of storing marking out tools.

Page 21: Marking Out Tools powerpoint

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21 of 21© 2013 City and Guilds of London Institute. All rights reserved.

Any questions?