OKTL BY SHIHAB

Acknowledgement

To preparing this report a number of people have made considerable contribution. Their insights, advice and suggestions helped us a lot. We would like to pay special thanks to Mr. Minhaz

Ahmed, [Lecturer], Department of Textile Engineering, Southeast University], for continuously guiding me about the development and preparation of the report. He has

enrichedme with necessary ideas and concepts for incessant improvement of the report.

I would like to thank M A Bashar Khan [GM (Operations)] of Orion Knit Textiles Ltd.

I would like to express our sincere gratitude to Md. Touhidul Islam [Deputy General Manager ( Dyeing].Who help me lot at time of industrial training and he share us lot of experience and we gather knowledge about industrial environment.

I also express my thanks Md. Abdul Alim [Deputy Manager HR &Admin, Orion Knit Textiles Ltd.] for providing a chance and allowed us to work in the organization during the Industrial training period.

I would like to express our sincere gratitude to Mr. Masud Ur Rahaman, [Asst. Manager; Orion Knit Textiles Ltd], who help me lot at time of industrial training and he share us lot of experience and we gather knowledge about industrial environment.

My sincere appreciation goes to the entire Orion Knit Textiles Ltd team for extending their hands of cooperation throughout the training period.

However, I have prepared my Industrial Training report overcoming all the difficulties & also the shortage of time. Here I would like to present the report.

Date: 13,September, 2014.Acknowledged By:

SHIHAB UDDIN AHAMMED

SHIHAB UDDIN AHAMMED Page 1

Content

Topic no Topic Name Page No1 Acknowledgement---- 12 Content----- 23 Objectives------ 34 Company Profile— 35 Compliance -- 46 Employee Duties & responsibilities ----- 77 Knitting Section---- 158 Dyeing Parameter & Calculation------------------- 349 Dyeing Laboratory-- 35

10 Grey Fabric Store & Batch Section-- 3811 Machine list in OKTL 4512 Raw Material-- 4913 Chemicals-- 5114 Dyes-- 5415 General dissuasion of Buying House-- 5616 Some Buying House & Trader name-- 5317 GSP----- 5618 Garments Export Procedure--- 6019 Types of Garments Sample-- 5920 Name of Some Testing Houses-- 6421 Sewing & Finishing Accessories-- 7222 Stitch & Seam 7323 Sewing Thread-- 8224 Packing Into Carton-- 8725 Effluent Treatment Plan-- 8826 Conclusion-- 9227 Some Suggestion for Orion Knit Textile-- 93


Orion Knit Textiles Ltd is a state of the art Knitting, Dyeing, Finishing & Knit Garment manufacturing factory. The project has been a setting up of a 100% export oriented knit garment unit. The project has been designed to full fill the present world market demand for producing most value added fabrics. The project is equipped with open width finishing line. This helps saving all types of fabrics consumption. Also the quality of fabrics is improved tremendously. The machinery of the project is Brand new and has been imported from abroad.

Objectives:

To meet the appropriate expectations of clients.To gain confidence of the Buyers.To be the "Tag carrier of made in Bangladesh".To create employment opportunities.Speedy Communication through Internet & Telecom services.

COMPANY PROFILEFactory Name: Orion Knit Textiles Ltd.

Factory: Jamirdia, Bhaluka, Mymensingh.

Zip code-2240 Bangladesh

Phone:88-02-8836278

Fax:88-02-8836274

Corporate Office: Noor palace, H # 4, R # 8, Block # F, Neketon, Gulshan, Dhaka.

Managing Director: Mr.Salman Obaidul Karim.

Year of Establishment : 2010

Area of Premises : 550000 sqft

Number of Employee : 1500.


Compliance:

Orion knit textiles Ltd. complies with specific regulation and requirement state by the land of law or by the customer against work environment, sound, noise, safety & health, working hour, wages, mandatory benefits, cleaning & hygienic, work regulations etc.

Some examples are given below-

Fire Extinguisher: Sufficient fire extinguisher in Orion Knit Textiles Ltd.

Complain System: In Orion knit Textiles Ltd employees/labors complains are handled out by the following diagram below-


OKTL Organogram:


Other Compliance Matters:

No child labor/involuntary labor.Timely payment, incentive, Bonus and leaves following minimum wages.Transportation in companies account for distance labors/staffs.Free routine medical checkup and medical facilities.Training of operators and technical staffs.Regular evacuation drill and trained staffs.Alternative in building staircase.Emergency exit.Security Observation through CC TV

Remarks:

It’s a wonderful project. This project makes profit more than ever for its strong management. Orion Knit Textiles Ltd. (OKTL) is leading house of industries and commerce in Bangladesh having Knitting, Dyeing and Garments industries. The main accomplishment of their project is the highly gas burn power plant and own chemical waste water treatment plant. This is effectively running to remove effluents from drained water. It is such a type of industry which has the ability to maintain finest quality products. To fulfill the buyer requirements the factory has established a strong management and equipped with modern machineries.

Responsible of all Employees

Responsible of Managing Director

• Reporting to Chairperson

• Responsible to board of director/s

• Having total charge of the operation

• Directly responsible to overlook marketing department and fulfill marketing requirements

• Monitor factory operation and make sure orders are delivered on time, with customer's required quality at a minimum cost

• Take the total charge of all human resource activities and make sure FKL. To have professional and cheerful work force

Responsible of Director:


• Reporting to Managing Director

• Direct co-ordination with Production Manager / Sample Room In-Charge / Quality Manager / Lab In-Charge.

• Product analyzing and providing technical guidance for optimum benefit of the company.

• Monitor productivity and take necessary actions and give advises.

• Take charge of all pre-production activities.

• Take charge of all new developments.

• Identify tanning needs.

• Maintain safety system and procedures.

• Introduce cost effective management methods.

Responsible of General Manager (Operation):

• Report directly to Managing Director& Director.

• Take total charge of the factory activities.

• Take charge of administration / fund management / cost control/ purchasing / production planning / store and stock control / delivery schedules and compliance.

• Directly control all the system maintenance and upgrading.

• Take responsibility of all information flow to / from head office with the help of coordinator

• Take charge of all recruitments and terminations with the guidance of Director.

Responsible of General Manager (Production):

• Report directly to Managing Director.

• Negotiate with the Merchandising DGM

• Co-ordinate with the Merchandising department about costing & Consumption.

• Directly Report to the Director about the Garments Unit.

• Over all monitoring the productivity and take necessary actions.

• Responsible to Production Manager.


Responsible of Merchandising (DGM):


• Co-ordinate with Marketing officer, Director Operations and Sample Room In-Charge.

• Upgrade Managing Director on the progress. Follow-up on new order confirmations and transfer information to subordinates

• Make contribution to production planning and make sure that the production plan is up to date.

• Monitoring maintained and processed order information, which transferred between head office and the factory

• Execute raw materials bookings and follow-ups.

• Follow up and get it done samples from sample room with the help of the coordinator.

• Understand the general / technical problems in the factory, customer requirements and get buyer's approvals where ever possible.

Responsible of Finance and Accounts (DGM):

• Directly report to the Director.

• Close co-ordination with Managing Director.

• Responsible for execution funds and maintain relevant documentation.

• Maintain salary sheets and follow up cash requirements and organize funds for company needs.

• Handle all kind of banking affairs.

• Produce Management reports with regards to company finance

Responsible of General Manager (Purchase & Inventory):


• Co-ordinate with Merchandising Manager.

• Responsible for business development / develop new supplier sources and cost control.

• Frequent market research and update management and related departments on the current trends in the market.


• Generate innovation to the organization.

• Follow up current customers and ongoing orders.

• Co-operate with customers and make their requirements understand to the subordinates and related departments.

• Understand the general / technical problems in the factory; convince customers and getcustomers approvals where ever is possible on company interest.

• Find business for surplus goods.

• Prepare and maintain management reports.

Responsible of General Manager (HR & Compliance):

• Directly reporting to Director.

• Co-ordinate with the entire departmental in charges and all the workers in the factory

• Responsible to monitor:

Factory timing Discipline and cleanliness Attendance, leave and holydays Security and maintenance of the factory Transportation and its maintenance Wagers, overtime pay, allowances and other payments. Do necessary formalities during new

recruitment or terminations.

Responsible of Manager (IE & Planning):

• Directly reporting to the Director.

• Directly reporting to the MD Sir about the overall situation of the factory

• Sample break down and SMV establish.

• Discussion with GM (Production) about lost time and bottle neck.

• Co-ordination with HR department about the workers recruitment.

Responsible of Senior Merchandiser:

• Report directly to Manager Merchandising.


• Maintain and process information received from buyers and buying offices and process and transfers them between head office and factory.

• Follow up on new order confirmations and book raw materials accordingly.

• Help to update the production plan.

Responsible of Production Manager:

• Directly reporting to General Manager.

• Responsible to GM, Operations.

• Co-ordinate with Quality Manager, Cutting manager, Finishing & Store.

Responsible of Inventory Manager:

• Directly reporting to General Manager.

• Responsible to Merchandising Manager.

• Co-ordinate with production Co-coordinator.

• Responsible to follow up production planning and all the raw material requirements.

• Maintain inventory / storing system / documentation and provide information to prepare statistics

• Stock controlling and keep management inform as and when required.

Responsible of Quality Control In-charge:

• Reporting to Quality Manager

• Responsible to Director Operations

• Co-ordinate with production, knitting, linking, trimming, mending and finishing In-Charges and Supervisors

• Responsible to follow up instructions given by Quality Manager and Director Operations.

• Monitor the work done by Quality Checkers.

• Make sure the quality is maintained at buyer's required standard and maintained company quality system.


• Maintain relevant paper work.

Responsible of Human Resources &Welfare Officer:

• Reporting to General Manager

• Co-ordinate with all department heads in the organization.

• Responsible to monitor training, cleanliness, health and safety, meals, picnics, welfare fund and all other welfare affairs

Responsible of Compliance Officer:

• Reporting to HR & Welfare Officer

• Responsible to General Manager

• Co-ordinate with all department heads in the organization.

• Responsible to monitor system management, health & safety and all other compliance affairs.

Responsible of HR Officer:

• Directly reporting to Administration Manager

• Responsible to General Manager

• Co-ordinate with the entire department in charges and all the workers in the factory.

• Responsible to monitor,

o Factory timing. o Discipline and cleanliness. o Attendance, leave and holydays. o Security and maintenance of the factory. o Transportation and its maintenance. o Wagers, overtime pay, allowances and other payments. o Do necessary formalities during new recruitment or terminations.

Responsible of Accounts Executive:

• Reporting to Finance & Accounts Manager.

• Responsible to maintain all the books and paperwork with regards to company accounts.

• Prepare and maintain salary sheets.

• Follow up day-to-day cash requirement and handled funds.

• Prepare management reports.


Duties& responsibilities of marketing officer:

The main duties and responsibilities of a marketing officer are given bellow:

To prepare cost sheet by dealing with the buyer. To take different steps by discussing with the high officials and merchandiser. To maintain a regular & good relationship between commercial officer & merchandiser. To maintain a regular communication with the buyers & buying houses. Communicate with the new buyer.

• Display the criteria of the products. Actually the responsibilities & duties of marketing officer begins from getting order of buyer & ends after receiving goods by the buyer. So he should be always smart, energetic & sincere.

Responsible of Security In-charge:•Reporting to Dept. General Manager.

• Responsible to monitor all the activities of security officers, conduct security activities and make sure the total premises are completely safe and secured.

• Should conduct regular security inspections in the premises both day and night

• Maintain records of all incomings and outgoing goods, personal and vehicles.

• Provide training to security staff.

Responsible of Security Guard:

• Reporting to Security In-charge.

• Responsible to Security Manager.

• Conduct security activities and make sure the total premise is completely safe and secured.

• Should be conduct regular security inspections in both day and night.

• Maintain all security records.


Responsible of Time Keeper:

• Reporting to Administration Manager

• Responsible to maintain the time record of all the employees.

• Maintain timecard in order.

Responsible of Sewing Supervisor:

• Directly reporting to Finishing In-Charge.

• Responsible to Assistant Production Manager.

• Co-ordinate with finishing Supervisor.

• Responsible for all labeling.

• Monitoring work of all the workers.

• Maintain needle policy and safety.

Responsible of Sewing Operators:

• Reporting to Sewing Supervisor.

• Responsible to Finishing In-Charge.

• Duties to do sewing with optimum quality.

• Maintain cleanliness and safety.

Responsible of Ironing Supervisor:

• Directly reporting to Finishing In-Charge

• Responsible to Assistant Production Manager

• Co-ordinate with Washing In-Charge

• Responsible for all finishing activities

• Motivate subordinates.

Responsible of Iron man:


• Reporting to Ironing Supervisor

• Responsible to Finishing In-charge

• Duties to do ironing with optimum quality.

• Maintain cleanliness and safety.

Responsible of Packing Supervisor:

• Reporting to Finishing In-Charge

• Responsible for Assistant Production Manager

• Co-ordinate with Ironing Supervisor and Sewing Supervisor.

• Responsible for best quality goods.

• Monitoring work of all the workers.

• Motivate subordinates.

Shift Change: The industry maintains three shifts for Knitting and Dyeing & Section:

Job Description / Responsibility of Production Officer:

To prepare programs as per order sheet. To follow up production time to time & quality of products according to the order sheet. To prepare fabric swatch & trim card for buyer`s approval before bulk production To solve any problem of Dyeing

To give the solution for dia, GSM, shrinkage, spirality, crease mark, line mark and hand feel problem of the finished fabrics. To meet the planning schedule according to the requirement of Garments Div. To submit Daily production reports to the Concern Authority To maintain registers of dye yarns and samples To develop new samples and keep it for future requirement. Any other assignment given by higher authority.


Communication System:

Intercom Telephone Fax E-mail Written letters Oral

Knitting section

Process Flow chart of Knitting:

Yarn in cone form↓

Feeding the yarn cone in the creel↓

Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape positive feeding arrangement and Tension device. ↓

Knitting↓

Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting↓

Inspection↓

Numbering.

Knitting:

Knitting is the method of creating fabric by transforming continuous strands of yarn into a series of interlocking loops, each row of such loops hanging from the one immediately pre-ceding it. The basic element of a knit fabric structure is the loops intermeshed with the loops adjacent to it on both sides


and above and below it.

The weft knitted structure is very different from the warp knitted one. The difference is apparent from both warp and weft knitted structures is shown in simplest forms in below. It is seen from this figure that in a knitted structure a horizontal row of loops can be made using one thread and the thread runs in horizontal direction

In a warp knitted structure, each loop in the horizontal direction is made from a different thread and the

number of threads used to produce such a fabric is at least equal to the number of loops in a horizontal

row. One can say that in a warp knitted fabric the threads run roughly in a vertical direction.

Parts of knitting Machines:

Creel: Creel is used to place the cone of yarn.

Feeder: Feeder is used to feed the yarn to make a fabric.

Tensioning device: Tensioning device is used to give proper tension to the yarn.

VDQ pulley: VDQ pulley is used to control the GSM by controlling the stitch length.

Guide: Guide is used to guide the yarn.

Sensor: Sensor is used to seen & the machine stops when any problem occurs.

Spreader: Spreader is used to spread the knitted fabric before take up roller.

Take up roller: Take up roller is used to take up the fabric

Fixation feeder: These types of feeder are used in Electrical Auto Striper Knitting Machine to feed the yarn at specific finger.


Rethom: These devise are used in Electrical Auto Striper Knitting machine.

Design Development by using CAM:

The type of fabric to produce depends on the setting of the Cam of Knitting machine. The different types of fabric can be produced by only changing the cam setting. The cam settings to produce different fabric are given below:

Single jersey:

Only knit cams are used to produce single jersey fabric. So the setting would be-

K K K

K K K

K K K

Inter lock:

Inter lock fabric is produced by using knit and miss cam. So the setting would be-

K M K

M K M

Lacost:

Lacost uses knit and tuck cam like-

K K T K K

T K K K T

French terry:


The cam setting is as follows-

K M K M K M

K T K M K T

K M K T K M

Considered point of Knitting:

When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related to production and quality. Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider. Those are as follows-

• Finished G.S.M.

• Type of Fabric or design of Fabric.

• Yarn count

• Types of yarn (combed or carded)

• Diameter of the fabric.

• Stitch length

• Color depth.

End products of circular knitting machine:

Single Jersey Machine:

a) S/J Plain

b) Single lacoste

c) Double lacoste

d) Single pique

e) Double pique

f) Terry

Rib Machine:


a) 1×1 Rib fabric

b) 2×2 Rib fabric

c) Honeycomb

End product of Flat bed knitting machine:

a) Collar

b) Cuff

Production Calculation:

A. Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency

B. Production/shift in meter

C. Fabric width in meter:

D. Needle calculation:

For Circular knitting machine:

Diameter of the Machine X Gauge of the Machine X 3.14

For example: Diameter of the machine is 18” and Gauge of the machine is 24. Then the number of Needles on the machine would be-

18 X 24 X 3.14 = 1356

For Flat Bed knitting machine:

Length of the Machine needle bed X Gauge of the Machine

For example: Length of the machine needle bed is 56” and Gauge of the machine is 14. Then the number of Needles on the machine would be-


56 X 14 = 1568

Faults of Knitting:

1. Hole Mark

Causes:

Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks.

During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook.

If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and density.

Badly knot or splicing.

Yarn feeder badly set.

Remedies:

Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform.

Use proper count of yarn.

correctly set of yarn feeder.

Knot should be given properly.

2. Needle Mark

Causes:

when a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics.

If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes on the fabrics.

Remedies:

Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.

3. Sinker Mark

Causes:

When sinker corrode due to abrasion then sometimescannot hold a new loop as a result sinker mark comes.

If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes.


Remedies:

Sinker should be changed.

4. Star Mark

Causes:

Yarn tension variation during production.

Buckling of the needle latch.

Low G.S.M fabric production.

Remedies:

Maintain same Yarn tension during production.

Use good conditioned needles.

5. Drop Stitches

Causes:

Defective needle.

If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on to the needle hook.

Take-down mechanism too loose.

Insufficient yarn tension.

Badly set yarn feeder.

Remedies:

Needle should be straight & well.

Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation.

Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension.

Yarn tension should be properly.

6. Oil stain


Causes:

When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and make a line.

Remedies:

Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.

Well maintenance as well as proper oiling.

7. Rust stain

Causes:

If any rust on the machine parts.

Remedies:

If any rust on the machine parts then clean it.

Proper maintenance as well as proper oiling.

8. Pin hole

Causes:

Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric.

Remedies:

Change the needle

9. Grease stain

Causes:

Improper greasing

Excess greasing

Remedies:

Proper greasing as well as proper maintenance

10. Cloth fall- out

Causes:


Cloth fall- out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an empty needle with an empty needle with closed latch runs into the yarn feeder and remove the yarn out of the hook of the following needles.

Remedies:

Make sure all the latches of needle are closed with feeding yarn after a drop stitch.

11.

A fault in weft knitted fabric appearing as light or dark course wise(width wise) Stripe.

Causes:

This fault comes from yarn fault.

If different micro near value of fiber content in yarn.

Different lusture, dye affinity of fiber content in yarn.

During spinning different similar classes of fiber is mixed specially in carded yarn & these fibers have similar characteristics.

In draw fame different similar classes sliver is mixed and make one sliver.

Remedies:

We can use this fabric in white color.

12. Fly dust:

Causes:

In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from yarn due to low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or attaches to the fabric surface tightly during knit fabric production.

Remedies:

Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of time.

By cleaning the floor continuously.

By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor.


Over all ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric.

13. Yarn contamination

Causes:

If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after finishing,

If lot, count mixing occurs.

Remedies:

By avoiding lot, count mixing.

Fault less spinning.

13. Yarn Faults:

Neps.

Slubs.

Yarn count variations.

Thick/Thin place in yarn.

Hairiness

Flat Knitting Machines Fault:

1. Holes:

Causes:

Needle Break,

High Tension on Tensioner,

Excess cotton with yarn on needle.

2. Missing Needle:

Causes:

Faulty Needle,

Faulty Cam setting.


3. Oil mark:

Causes:

Improper Oiling on Machine.

Inexperienced Operator

4. Loop Miss:

Causes:

Tension on take up roller, Needle miss.

Types of Fabric:

Single jersey & Double Jersey derivatives that is familiar in OKTL. is given below-

Single jersey Derivatives

1 Single jersey with lycra and without lycra2 Single lacoste with half feeder lycra ( in lacoste never used full feeder lycra) 3 Pique & double lacoste4 Two thread terry 5 Denim single jersey 6 Three thread fleece

Double Jersey Derivatives

1 (1x1) Rib 2 (1x1) half feeder lycra Rib 3 (1x1)Full feeder lycra Rib 4 (2x1) Rib 5 (2x1) half feeder 6 (2x1) full feeder lycra7 (2x1) Rib 8 Offal Fabrics 9 I-lack fabric 10 Flat Back Rib

Knitting Parameter & Calculation: The main parameters & calculations are followed in knitting section, are given below-


GSM: GSM means the weight in gram of one square meter fabric. Mainly it is measured by GSM cutter & electric balance.

Gauge Selection

Selection of machine gauge depends upon yarn diameter. Yarn diameter also depends on several factors such as yarn count, fibre type, yarn finishing etc. general practice of yarn count and machine gauge in different industries in Bangladesh given below:

Yarn count used Machine gauge Yarn count used Machine gauge16 18 28 2218 20 28 2520 20 28 2820 24 30 2224 22 30 2424 24 30 2826 20 30 3426 22 34 2826 24 34 2826 28

The above values may differ, because it is the results of a research work. There is a relation between yarn in tex and machine gauge is given by equation,

The yarn count to be used on a circular knitting machine depends largely on the pitch, and thus on the machine gauge. For any given machine gauge it can lie within a larger range, be-cause on the same machine different yarn counts can be used, depending on the knitted structure, thedesired optics (fabric appearance) and the fabric properties.

Loop or Stitch Length:

The length of yarn knitted into one stitch in a weft knitted fabric. Stitch length is theoretically a single length of yarn which includes one needle loop and half the length of yarn (half a sinker loop) between that needle loop and the adjacent needle loops on either side of it. Gen-erally, the larger the stitch length the more elastic and lighter the fabric, and the poorer its cover opacity and bursting strength.

Stitch Length, l = One needle loop + Two half a sinker loop Yarn count is a numerical expression of fineness or coarseness of yarn), from the centre of a needle to the centre of the neighboring needle express in mm.


Yarn count:

Yarn count is calculated in two systems:

Direct system Indirect system

Production Calculation:

It has been expound in the sections above that the output of a circular knitting machine de-pends on a series of different influencing variables. A wealth of machine data and data on the fabric to be produced is required for calculating production capacity.

In this respect the cylinder diameter d in inch, the gauge E, the system count S, the machine rpm n, and the efficiency level ɳof the circular knitting machine must be known. The following data on the fabric produced must also be available:

The construction (e.g. single jersey, rib, purl etc.) The course density or course /cm and the weight per unit area in gm/m2.


Knitting Procedure forElastane Single Jersey Fabric:


Knitting Procedure for Single Jersey Fabric (Without Elastane):


Gray Fabric Inspection:After knitting every roll of grey fabric of each order is inspected for checking “is it meet with the finishing target or not.” Four point method was used for inspection the fabrics. Four grey fabric inspection reports for different four orders are given below-


Dyeing Parameter & Calculation:

The things which influence the effective coloration of textile materials with reactive dye are


called as parameters of dyeing. These include –Temperature, Time, Liquor ratio, pH of the bath

etc. A brief description about them is given below-

Effects of Temperature:

Temperature of the dye bath plays vital role for dyeing. Rise in temperature has a large effect on

an increase in the diffusion rate of dyes into fabrics. Increasing of temperature increases the rate

of dyeing & of the dye migration. Higher dyeing temperature ensures the good leveling & better

penetration of dye in to the fibers. But the temperature depends on the types of dyes adapted in

the dye bath. For Example-in case of hot brand dyestuff the dosing temperature of dye is 80ºC

and for cold brand dye temperature is kept 60ºC.

Effects of pH:

In the case of most popular fiber reactive dyes, a high PH actually activates the cellulose (cot-

ton) fiber, forming a cellulosate anion, which can then attack the dye molecule, leading to a

reaction that produces a strong, permanent covalent bond. Without a high pH, the dye will not fix

permanently to the cellulose fiber. For this reason Sodium Carbonate (Na2CO3) [Some time

mixed alkali such as (NaOH + Na2CO3)] is used for no other reason than to increase the PH of

the dye reaction, so that the fiber will react with the dye. Basically during the color addition, the

PH of the bath remains at near about 6, but after adding alkali it goes rise to pH.

11.4 & this is the critical stage in which the dye molecules fix up with the fiber.

Effects of Material: Liquor Ratio (M: L):

Dye bath exhaustion increases with the decreasing of liquor ratio. Dyeing at low liquor ratio

decreases the amount of waste dyes & chemicals in the effluent. Because higher the liquor ratio

greater the amount of g/l of chemicals which increases the volume of effluent. To get rid from

this problem Then Air flow Dyeing machine is getting popular in our country which can dyeing

at 1:3 Materials: Liquor ratio. But in case of These Jet Dyeing machine it can possible up to 1: 5

Materials: liquor ratio.

Effects of Time:


The time for dyeing also the vital one. A specific Time adjusted with the temperature, very much needed for better dyeing. For this reason color dosing takes place in 20 minutes (may vary process to process) & Specific run time is set for dyeing.

Shrinkage

A dimensional change resulting in a decrease in the length or width of a specimen subjected to

specified condition is known shrinkage.

Spirality:

If the wales of the knitted fabric are not perpendicular to the course and skew to the right or left

spirality occurs in the fabric. This creates serious problem, especially in the apparel industry.

Dyeing Laboratory:

Laboratory:

Lab is the most important section of a dying industry. Higher precision lab can aid easily to achieve the goal of the organization. Before bulk production a sample for the approval from industry is sent to the buyer. As per requirement of the buyer the shade is prepared in a lab considering the economical aspect.

The Main Objectives of a Textile Dyeing Laboratory:

To develop standard operating procedures (SOP) for all the products which are to be processed in a dye house.Dyestuffs evaluation. Color matching together with process and product development. To provide training ground for production and laboratory technicians. Process optimization and cost reduction through process modifications and develop-ing or testing newer techniques and products. In process checks of important quality parameters affecting the quality, efficiency, cost etc and monitoring. Quality control of all raw materials consumed and also all processed material in terms of color and fastness.

Flow Chart for Lab Dip Development:



Process Flow for Dyeing & Finishing:

Merchandiser sent Swatch or Color Code to the Lab In-charge↓

Lab In-charge Developed at least 3 Lab Dip (A, B & C)↓

Lab Dip Sent for Buyer Approval↓ IfIfnot Buyer Approved A or B or C OK↓Information Sent to Bulk↓Sample Dyeing & Finishing with Quality Control↓

Batching for Bulk Production↓

Scouring & Bleaching↓

Dyeing↓

Rope Opening, Slitting and Dewatering↓

Stentering↓

Compacting↓

Quality Inspection↓

Storing the Finished Fabric.


Grey Fabric Store & Batch Section: In OKTL Grey fabric store and Batch section works along with. Where the fabrics are arranged by type of fabrics & buyer order after completing grey fabric inspection.

Fabrics are separated by roll or lot. Every face of lot or rolls contains

Fabric types Yarn count Fabric GSM Fabric faults name Lot number Roll number This section maintains a card for every lot which contains the information about fabrics. Function of Batch Section:

To receive the grey fabric roll form knitting or other source.Turn the gray fabric if require.

Prepare the batch for dyeing according to the following criteria:-Order sheet (Received from buyer)-Dyeing shade ( light or dark, color or white)-Machine capacity.-Type of fabric ( 100% Cotton, CVC, Stripe fabric)-Fabric dia. and rope length-Emergency order.-Fabric construction (single jersey, Rib, Lycra Rib, Lacost, PK etc.)

To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.

To keep record.

Proper Batching Criteria:To try same rope length for each nozzle. To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing machine. To minimize preparation time & machine stoppage time. To use a particular machine for dyeing same shade.

Turningmachine:

This tubular turning machine is for turning tubular knit fabric before dyeing and drying after. As knit fabric material is handled by the air force, there is no fear of damage during operation.

Speciation:

Made of stainless steel, the main pipe can stand up permanently without rusting. Operation is easy and safe. Air flow initiation or termination is instantly effected by the press of the ON or OFF push-button, or the moment the material fabric reaches the eject roller. There is no lingering air consumption. Air flow direction is designed to automatically switch upon alteration of the position of the curved pipe, as they are interlocked with each other.


Function of machine parts:J-Box: Squeeze the fabric to reduce the water contains. Water reducing percentage depends on J-Box pressure. De-twister: By the de-twister rope formed fabric become untwists form. (due to action of sensor) Hand Wheel: It is manual and used for guiding the rotary blade. Turn Wheel: It controls the fabric rotation Rotary Blade: To cut the fabric through break wales line. Ring: To help cutting. Guide Roller: To guide the fabric to plaiting


Plaiter: To plait the fabric. Sensor: Sense for cutting through break wales line.

Basic Operation Principle:

The bianco tensionless tubular fabric slitting and opening lines are used after the wash process or the dyeing station.

1 The fabric, placed in a basket in rope form. 2 It is made to pass through the squeezing unit where most of the impregnation liquid is extracted. 3 Then it enters the de-twister, which eliminates the tension of the rope and is prepared for the slitting and spreading processes. 4 The container is placed on a platform whose rotation, synchronized with the action of the de-twister, untwists the rope preceding the entrance to the de-twister. 5 The latter is placed at the top of the structure, for optimal distance from the automatic slitter, so as to enhance the effectiveness of rope de-twisting and spreading. 6 Then the untwist form fabric is transferred to the basket by means of motorized belts and then it moves on towards the slitter without stresses that would can be widened upto a diameter of 80 cm. Pick the fabric leaving the tensionless basket and with the aid of a beater,plaints it on to the conveyor belt making for enhanced relaxation of the fabric.

The cutting line can be controlled by means of basket rotation.

1 From conveyor belt fabric is passed through dogal centering roller (It constitutes a compacata fabric centering system, with faster centering action and enhanced efficacy compared to traditional centering devices.) 2 The open with fabric is passed through squeezing system to extract the greatest possible quantity of impregnation liquid from the fabric, by squeezing it between two rubber coated rollers. (It structure is highly compact and sturdy, and it can be made either of iron or of stainless steel). 3 After squeezing the fabric it go to the plaiter to plait on a trolley. 4 Checking Parameter:

5 Cutting Line Check: Operator checks fabric cutting line. Rotary blade cut fabric

throughwales line or not.

6 Bow and Slant Check: Operator checks bow and slant at delivery side.

7 Faults Check: As mentioned earlier.

Stenter Machine:SHIHAB UDDIN AHAMMED Page 38

In Stenter knitting and woven fabrics used in finishing and shrinkage of the stabilities that world-class ,quality and technological stenter machine. Agronomic operating platform, the operator’s use of the machine is designed to provide the most ideal way. All command and command and control of the machine belongs to the ACC software platformdabulunmaktadir.Butun Turkish software program “touch-screen” screen contains the following details about the control over this.

Basic Working Principal of Stenter:

The stenter line has units: 2 padders, 1 weft straightener, 1 tenter and drying chambers. There are also steaming, selvedge degumming and curing arrangement. At least padder is simply wash with water. The squeeze pressure normally 5 bars. In two padder the fabric is treated with softener. The fabric is passed through tenter. There are two steams along fabric width that apply steam from below fabric. There are gumming unit before drying chamber. In sten-ter, fabric enters in drying chambers by gripping with chain pin and with over feed/ under feed that is with more controlled conditions. The drying chamber has 7 units. Generally tem-perature kept about 150 – 200 ºC. The fabric comes out form chamber by tenter chains grip-ping with pins. Before delivery the fabric is removed from the tenter chains by unpinning rollers and then the cutting units cut the additional fabric from the gummed sides. Now at de-livery side there is an antistatic arrangement to remove static electricity from heated

Function of Stenter:

Apply chemical and softener To dart set the T/C fabric Drying of fabric To control width Curing of fabric Apply pigment dyeing To control GSM To control shrinkage To decrease spiralityTo decrease bowing effect Surface coating for teflon finish Apply soil release chemical finish


Heat set for cotton/lycra fabric

Main Part OfStenter

1. Feed Zone:

-Centering device

2. Chemical Padding Zone:

-Squeezing roller-Chemical tray

3. Bowing Control Zone:

-Bowing roller (Rubber rollers, number of roller 2)-Sensor (no of sensor 6)-Uncurling

roller

4. Chin Entry Zone:

-Uncurling device (both side of the chain entry)-Sensor (both side of the chain entry)-

Brush roller (for attaching the fabric with the pin of the chain, no of brush roller

4) -Selvedge gumming device with gum box under chain entry.

1 Drying Zone (gas burner )2 Cooling Zone 3 Delivery Zone

Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for Stenter Machine:

Work should be done before running machine.

1 Clean the machine (inner & outer side.) 2 Switch ON the main switch. 3 ON the Gas &Air line bulb. 4 Have any bad sound in machine? Check it. 5 Check conveyor belt, it is ok or not. 6 Run the machine. 7 After raising temperature at a specific state start running the fabric 8 Close the all bulb after ending the operation.

Compacting Machine:


Function:To control shrinkage To control width To control GSM To smooth fabric Heat setting of fabric for lycra

Checking Parameter:

1 Shade Check: In delivery side operator checks the shade of fabric with customer approved swatch. 2 With Check: Operator measures fabric width by using measuring tape and compared with required width. 3 Wight Check: Operator checks the weight by using GSM cutter and electronic balance& compares with the required finished width. 4 Fault Check: As mentioned before 5 Design & Slanting: Operator checks design and slanting at delivery side. 6 Edge line checking: check two edges of fabric at delivery side.

Table: Treatment Condition According to the Type of Material

Fibre Composition Cylinder Temp. ( ºC) Steam Quantity

Cotton 100% 130-150 High

Cotton –Acrylic 80-90 Medium

Cotton-Wool 80-110 Medium

Wool-Cotton-Polyamide 80-110 Medium

Viscose-Cotton 90-130 Low

Viscose-Wool 90-110 Low

Machine list of knitting Section in OKTL:


Machine list of Lab Section in OKTL:


Machine list of Dyeing Section in OKTL:



Machine list of Finishing Section in OKTL:

Machine list of ETP Section in OKTL :

Machine list of Utility Section in OKTL:


Raw Materials


Yarn:

The raw material for knitting is the yarn. Different types of yarn of wide range of different count are used. Both carded and combed yarn is used for knitting.

Generally used yarn and their count:

Yarn Type : Count

Cotton : 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S, 32S, 34S, 40S

Polyester : 75D, 100D

Spandex yarn : 20D,40D, 70D

Grey Mélange(5%,10%,15%) : 24S, 26S

PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton): 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S

CVC(60%+40%, 80%+20%) : 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S

Fabric:


Orion knit Textiles Ltd is a knit composite textile industry. In the industry fabric is used as raw material in dyeing-

Grey Fabrics:

Following types of gray fabrics are dyed:

Single jersey

Single jersey with lycra

Polo pique

Single lacoste

Fleece

Interlock

Interlock with lycra

Rib

Rib with lycra

1Χ1 rib

2Χ2 rib

6X2 rib

Sugar rib

Regular drop needle

Irregular drop needle


Different types of collar & cuff

Chemicals:

List of Chemicals used in Orion Knit Textiles is as follows-

Basic Chemicals:

1. Acetic Acid

2. Hydrogen per oxide

3. Sulphuric Acid

4. Caustic soda

5. G-salt

6. Soda ash

Detergent & Wetting agent:

1. Rewet AWC

2. Supraclean PCLF

Leveling Agent

1. Regal RE-30

2. Osimol STB

Sequestering Agent

1. Request 2207

Salt

1. Glauber Salt

Whitening Agent

1. Syno White 4BK

Softener


1. Presoft CWD

2. Resoft AFL

Fixing Agent

1. Refix FF

2. Refix NFI

Reducing Agent

1. Hydrose

2. Caustic

Bleaching Agent

1. (50%)H2O2

Enzyme

1. Genencor BF 1600L

Stabilizer

1. Restab 1299

Anti-creasing Agent

1. Relube ACA

PH Controller

1. Acetic Acid

2. Soda Ash

3. Caustic

Per-oxide Killer

1.Rekill 1405


Dyes

Orion Knit Textiles Ltd uses the following dyes-

1. Remazol

2. Auxifix

3. Reactive

4. Livafix

5.Dianix

6. Megafix

Remarks

As quality is the prime concern of the factory, qualitative raw materials are always bought by the management of the factory. Besides, there is enough space to keep those raw materials in the factory.

GENERAL DISCUSSION ON GARMENTS


Some Factors Related to Buying Side:

1. Customer: Those who buy the ultimate product are called customers. Customer of a product may be the consumer of this product or not.

2. Consumer: Those who use the ultimate product are called consumers. Consumer of a product may be the consumer of this product or not.

3. Buyer: Those who buy the product from other in large quantity are called buyers.4. Whole Seller:Those who sell the product to the retailer are called whole-sellers.5. Retailer:Those who sell the product directly to the customer are called retailers.6. Importers:Those who buy or import the product from foreign or overseas country in large

quantity are called importers.

Some Factors Related to Selling Side:

1. Seller: Those who sell the product to the others are called seller.2. Manufacturer: Those who manufacturer the product are called manufacturers.3. Exporter: Those who sell or export the product to the buyer of foreign country are called

exporters.4. Trader: Those who establish liaison between buyer and manufacturer are called traders.

Buyer Trader Manufacturer

Buying House:

Buying house means Buyer’s liaison office or trader office. Traders are of two types-i) Foreign Traderii) Local Trader

Name of Some Important Buyer of Bangladesh:

Generally buyers of USA, Europe, Canada, Australia, Japan, India are the main buyers of Garments and Textile product of Bangladesh.Name of some important buyers of these countries are described below-

Name of Some USA Buyers:

1. GAP2. Adidas3. Walmart


4. Levi’s (Brand: Dockler, Denizer, Levi’strauss)5. VF Asia (Brand: Lee, Wrangler )6. PVH -Phillips Von Heuson (Brand: CK)7. Peri Ellis8. Academy9. Banana10. Old Navy11. US Polo12. Nike13. American Eagle

Name of Some European Buyers:

1. H & M2. Hugo Boss3. Zara4. Mango (Turnkey)5. Puma6. European Eagle7. C & A8. M &S9. Esprit10. Terco11. Decathlon12. Sains Burry13. Carretow

14. NKD15. Tema16. Lindex

Name of Australian Buyers:1. K-mark

Name of Some Japanese Buyers:

1. Uniquelo2. Huloson Bay

Name of Some Indian Buyers:

1. Black Berry2. Mahendra ( Brand: Peter England )3. ITC


4. Ramond

Name of Some Important Traders of Bangladesh:

Multinational Traders:1. Li & Fung2. Mondial3. Asmara4. Comptextile5. Lin Mark6. Synergies7. ZXY Apparel Buying Solution8. Texebo

Local Traders:

1. Centrotex2. Team Sourcing

Seasons of Export:

Seasons of Export in USA:

i) Springii) Summeriii) Fall

Seasons of Export in Europe:

a)

i) Springii) Summer

b)

i) Autumnii) Winter

Major Garments Manufacturer Countries:


SS- January to Jun

AW-July to December

1. Bangladesh2. China3. Vietnam4. Combodia5. Pakistan6. Thailand7. Indonesia8. Turkey9. India 10. Shrilanka

Turkey:This country is suitable for highly decorative and fancy garments.

China:Buyers select China for decorative garments and short time shipment.

India:Buyers select India for decorative garments.

Vietnam:Buyers select Vietnams for plain printed T-shirt.

Combodia:Buyers select Vietnams for plain printed T-Shirt.

Bangladesh:Bangladesh is a Lower Developing Country with GSP facility. Buyers import various types of garments from Bangladesh.

GSP

The Generalized System of Preferences (known as GSP for short) is a scheme whereby a wide range of industrial and agricultural products originating in certain developing countries are given preferential access to the markets of the European Union.

Preferential treatment is given in the form of reduced or zero rates of customs duties.

The GSP scheme is specifically designed to benefit certain developing countries and integrate them into the world economy.

Since 1971, the EU has had rules ensuring that exporters from developing countries pay lower duties on some or all of what they sell to the EU. This gives them vital access to EU markets contributing to the growth of their economies. This scheme is known as the "Generalized System of Preferences".

Today Bangladesh offers a very flexible and feasible production base for its customers in EU, America and Australia.


The EU market is quota free for apparels and goods are eligible for the GSP facilities. As an LDC member Bangladesh also obtain special Tariff benefit from Canada (18% import Tax free).

FOB:

FOB means Free on Board. It is the value of the product which is fixed without cost of transportation of this product.

CIF:

FOB means Free on Board. It is the value of the product which is fixed including the cost of transportation and insurance of this product.

GARMENTS EXPORT PROCEDURE

Steps of garments export are described as follows:

1. Space Availability:

Space availability or time agreement is the availability of availability of production floor for the production of garments.

2. Costing:

Costing means the way of calculating the cost of production of garments. Costing is done considering-i) Fabric priceii) Accessories price &iii) C&M Cost

Way of Costing:

Costing can be done by-

i) Original Sampleii) Specification

Specificationcontains the following factors:-

i) Design or Sketch of garmentsii) Fabric Type-


- Composition - Color- Construction- GSM or Ozs. Per Square Yards.- Any other instruction

iii) Accessories Detailiv) Any Kind of Instructionv) Garments Size ( called “Measurement Chart” or “Size Chart” )

Specification File:

The file which contain the specification of product is called the “Specification File” or “Technical Package” or Tech-pack” or “PDM” (Product Development Manual) or “Order Sheet” or “Product Package”. Specification File is issued by the buyer and collected by the manufacturer.

BOM Sheet:

The pages of specification file contain fabric and accessories detail is called BOM ( Bill of Material ) Sheet.

3. Order Confirmation:

Order confirmation is issued by the buyer to the manufacturer which contains Tech-pack.

4. Purchase Order:

PO or purchase order is issued by the buyer to the manufacturer.

5. Master L/C:

L/C or Letter of Credit is a confirmation which is prepared by the buyer ( bank of buyer ) and issued to the manufacturer. It has financial value. L/C is of two types-

i) Master L/C &ii) Back to Back L/C

When a L/C is opened to import goods directly from the exporter is called master L/C. It is issued by the buyer (bank of buyer) to the manufacturer.

6. T & A Calendar Making:

T & A or “ Time and Action” calendar is made by the manufacturer to complete the production within a specific period of time.


7. Fabric & Accessories Booking:

After making of T & A calendar, fabric & accessories booking is necessary.

Without fabric, all materials used in garments is called “Accessories” or “Trimmings”. Accessories includes-

i) Sewing Threadii) Buttoniii) Interlining iv) Zipper v) Labelvi) Tissue Papervii) Ball head pinviii) Hagerix) Cartonx) Rib and xi) Silica Gee Bagxii) Plastic Clip so on.

8.Back to Back L/C:

Back to Back L/ C is prepared by the manufacturer to collect raw materials from the suppliers. It has 70-80% financial value of Master L/C.

8. Sampling:

Sample is the small quantity which represents the bulk. The process of collecting or making sample is called “Sampling”.

Types of Garments Sample

a. Proto Sample:

Features: This type of sample is made by the manufacturer by available fabric and accessories. This sample is made before or after order confirmation.

Purpose:Here buyer checks whether the factory can make the garments.

b. Fit Sample:


Features: This type of sample is made by the manufacturer by available fabric and accessories. This sample is made after order confirmation.

Purpose:Here buyer checks the fitness or measurement of the garments.

c. PP Sample:

Features:

This type of sample is made by the manufacturer by actual fabric and accessories. This sample is made after order confirmation. This sample must be approved by the buyer before production.

Purpose: Bulk production is done following PP sample.

d. Size Set Sample:

Features:

This type of sample is made in all sizes. These samples are sent to the buyer. These samples are made in all sizes.

Purpose: This sample is used for PP meeting.

e. Production Sample:

Features:

These samples are collected from the production floor while bulk production is running. These are sent to the buyer.

Purpose:Here buyer compares Production Sample with the PP Sample.

f. Garments Test Sample:


Features:

These samples are collected from the production floor while bulk production is running. These are sent to the testing house.

Purpose: Here Testing House tests different aspects of the garments and sends “test report” to the buyer.

Common Tests of Garments: Common tests of garments are as follows.

- Dimensional Stability Tests-Sewing Strength Tests- Button Attaching Tests- Spirally Tests- Color Fastness Tests- Abrasion Tests- Radiation of Materials Tests

Testing Houses may be local or international. They test the garments and send the test report to the buyer to inform the quality of product producing by the manufacturer.

g. Shipment Samples:

Features:

These samples are not so mandatory. These are sent to the buyer after the shipment of the products.

Purpose: Here buyer compares the Production Sample with the Shipment Sample.

Name of Some Currier:

Samples or any other important documents necessary for export are sent by the currier.

Name of Some Currier:

i) DHLii) Aramexiii) TNTiv) Fedexv) UPSvi) Sky net


vii) DPEX

Salesman Samples:

If buyer collect sample garments of specific design for specific season which are displayed in the retail shop to justify the demand of these samples, then these are called Salesman Sample.

10. Fabric & Trims in House:

Here confirms all fabrics and accessories in their hand.

11. Innovatory Checking & Report Making:

The term innovatory checking is applied for checking the quality & quantity of fabrics and accessories in house. After checking a report is made with the test data.

12. PP Meeting:

This meeting is held just before going to the bulk production. This meeting is conducted by following persons-

- Buying House QC- Factory QC- Buying House Merchandiser- Factory Merchandiser- Cutting Master- Pattern Master- Production Manager- Sample man

13. Pattern and Marker Making of Bulk Production:

Pattern is a hard paper which is made by following each individual component for a style of garments.

Marker is a thin paper which contains all components of different sizes for a particular style of garments.

14. Trial Cutting:

Little amount ( for 200-300 pieces of garments ) of fabrics are cut for checking the efficiency and production cost of the garments.


15. Bulk Cutting:

Here total fabrics required for bulk production are cut.

16. Numbering –Bundling & Sorting:

After cutting of fabrics numbering, Bundling and sorting process are done. Then cut pieces are sent to the sewing section.

17. Production Line Set-up:

Production line set-up is the arrangement of sewing machines where the input of the first machine is cutting part of the fabrics and the output of the last machine is complete garments. Production line may be straight or V-shaped or face to face or any other suitable type.

18. Sewing:

Cutting pieces are attached by sewing to make the complete garments. Different types of sewing machines are used in production line.

19. Finishing:

Finishing includes- ironing, accessories attaching, label attaching, ironing etc.

20. Pre-Final Inspection:

This type of inspection is done by factory QC. It may be at the end of the production line or in the lab.

21. Final Inspection:

Final inspection is conducted by the –

i) Buyer

ii) Buyer QC

iii) Trader QC

iv) Self Inspection: Conducted by the factory QC.

v) Third Party Inspection: Conducted by the testing houses.


Foreign

Local

Name of Some Testing Houses:

i) SGSii) ITSiii) BureanVeritasiv) TUV SUD

Functions of Testing Houses:

Testing of Fabric Testing of Garments Testing of Trims Garments factory Auditing for Compliance

Compliance:

Any type of rules and regulations that must be followed by an ideal factory. These include-

- Time of Work- Environment of Work Place- Salary & Wages- Facilities ( Dining, Child care, Toilet )- Treatment of Liquid Waste

Factories may be classified as-- Compliant- Semi Compliant &- Non Compliant

In-line Inspection:

During production, buyer QC will come and check the product quality and suggest to over-come any type of problem. This type of inspection is called In-line Inspection.

On-line Inspection:

Inspection at the end of the production line during production is called On-line Inspection.This inspection is conducted by the factory QC


Multinational

Logistic Firms:

The firms or agents which take the responsibility to receive the goods from the manufacturer company at the port and send to the buyer or buyer agent are called Logistic Agent. They also called Freight Forwarding Agent or Forwarder.

Buyer pays to the Logistic Agent.

Names of Some Logistic Firms:

i) Maerskii) APLiii) MGHiv) Damcov) Expoloncavi) Crown Logisticvii) NMC Corporation

C & F Agent:

The firms or agents which handle all kinds of customs related formalities are called C & F Agent. Factory pays to the C & F Agents.

Document For Payment

1. Commercial Invoice:

A sheet contains-

- Buyer Details


- Manufacturer Details- Item Details- Unit Price- Total Price

2.Packing List:

It is the list of packed products according to the size, color and content in each package.

5. Bill of Lading:

The document witch is issued by the Freight Forwarding Agent to the manufacturer containing detail about product sent and transportation company.e.g. AW/B- Air Way Bill.

ICD:

ICD means Inland Container Depot. The goods which are not suitable to transport in carton because of introducing crease marks are transported hanging in ICD.

Knit or Light Knit Garments:

1. T-Shirt:Top garments that must not contain placket. It may contain half collar or not. Collar of T-Shirt is made by circular rib machine. Generally single jersey fabric of GSM 120-220 is used to make T-Shirt.

2. Polo Shirt:Top garments that must have placket and collar. The collar of Polo Shirt is made by flat bed knitting machine. Double jersey fabrics are used to make Polo Shirt.

3. Knit Trouser:Bottom garments made of knit fabric.

4. Tank Top:Sleeveless top garments for men containing strap.

5. Briefs:


Men underwear (short ).

6. Lingerie:Ladies underwear ( short ).

7. Boxer Shorts:Long size men underwear above the knee.

8. Sweat Shirt:Long sleeve T-Shirt made of fleece fabric.

9. Socks

10. Tights/Hose/Leggings:Ladies skin trouser.

11. Singlet:Ladies top garments with strap.

12. Hoody:Long sleeve top garments with hood. Generally made of fleece fabric.

13. Gloves:Hand wear for long time use on hand when use of finger is necessary.

14. Mitten:Hand wear for short time use when use of finger is not necessary.

15. Sports Wear:Garments used in any type of sports.

16.Swim Shirt:Garments used as swimming dress. These garments are skin tight, made of hydrophobic fibre and water proof.

17. Pajamas:Night dress- both top & bottom.


SEWING ACCESSORIES

Without fabric, all materials used in garments is called “Accessories” or “Trimmings”. Accessories that used in sewing are called sewing accessories. Sewing accessories generally used in garments are described below.

Name of Some Sewing Accessories:

Sewing Thread: Sewing thread is a ply of two or more yarn having more strength and abrasion resistant.

Interlining:Interlining is one kind of accessories used between two layers of the fabrics in the garments which is invisible.

Purpose of Using Interlining:Interlining is used for desired shape and strength of a component of the garments.

Types of Interlining:

I) Woven Interlining

II) Non-woven Interlining

Uses: collar and cuff of shirt, lapel of jacket, blazer front, waist belt, belt loop, pocket flap etc.

Pelion:

Non-woven interlining made of paper which is widely used in pants is called Pelion. It is cheaper and it has high shrinkage resistant.


Woven fusible

Non-woven fusible

Woven non-fusible

Non-woven non-fusible

Lining:

Linings are the extra fabric used in inner face of the body part in the garments as an extra protection and also to provide comfort.e.g. Taffeta of blazer and coat.

Taffeta:

Taffeta refers to any plain woven fabric made of filament yarn. There are unbalanced taffeta, balanced taffeta, mer’s taffeta and iridescent taffeta.

Elastic:

Elastic means narrow fabric made of elastomeric fibres which extended when stretch is applied and recover its original shape when stretch is withdrawn.Elastics are specified by their width.Width of elastic used: ½”, ¾”, 1”, 1.5”, 2” 2.5”

Uses: Waist belt of normal pants, Pajamas, Shirt, Kid’s Pants, Briefs, Lingerie’s, Button hole elastic etc.

Label:

A label is accessory which indicates various instructions about garments. The label is attached with garments by sewing.

Types of Label:

I) Main Label: Contains buyer name or brand name.

II) Size Label: Contains garments size.

III) Care Label: Provides information about washing, ironing, drying etc.

IV) Integrated Label: Contains main label, care label, and size label in a combination.


Care Label contains:

I) Composition of garmentsII) Care symbolIII) Country of origin

Shoulder Pad:

Shoulder pad is widely used in shoulder of coat and blazer. It is used for both functional and decorative use. Shoulder pad may be of different size, thickness, structure and quality. Shoulder pad made of foam is comparatively cheaper.

Rib:

-Rib is a double jersey fabric. Rib is used as--Collar of T-shirt: -this is made by circular knitting machine.-Collar of Polo-shirt: -this is made by flat-bed knitting machine.-Collar of sweater. -Collar of Hoddy.-Cuff of T-shirt-Cuff of Polo-shirt

-Cuff of sweater and -Cuff of hoody

Pre-made Waist Band:Pre-made Waist Band is used inside the waist band for extra decoration.

Twill Tape:Herringbone type tape used in Bermuda, polo-shirt, binding in T-shirt etc.

9. Canvas Tape:Plain weave type tape used in polo-shirt, binding in T-shirt etc.

Application of Canvas Tape & Twill Tape:

- Flap open and close- To give particular shape and stable the garments- Decorative purpose

11.Velcro/Hook & Loop/Hook & Bar:


It is used for pocket attaching or decorative purpose in body wear, cargo pants etc.

10.Zipper:Zipper is a fastening device operating by means of two parallel rows of plastic or metal teeth on either side to interlock two parts of garments by a sliding tab.

Components of zipper: I) Slider II) Teeth II) Upper stopper IV)Lower stopper V) Tap.

Types of Zipper:

-Plastic zipper or nylon zipper-Metal zipper &-Vislon zipper

FINISHING ACCESSORIES

Accessories that used in finishing are called finishing accessories. Finishing accessories generally used in garments are described below:

Name of Some Sewing Accessories:

1. Button:


Button is an important finishing accessory which is used for fastening and also used for decorative purpose. Size of button is expressed in “Ligne” where,

1 Ligne = 0.635 mm

Types of Button:According to the number of hole button can be classified as-

- 2 hole button &- 4 hole button

Snap:

Snap is a fastening device that contains four parts.

Shank Button:

Shank Button is a fastening device that has no hole. It contains two parts which are attached by pressing. It is used in casual garments. The button-hole of shank button is called “Eyelet’’.

Rivit:

It is a fastening device contains two parts. It used for fastening and decorative purpose. The size of rivet is expressed in “Ligne”.


28L

Patch:

Lather made accessories used at the back side of waist belt which contain brand name. it is used for decorative purpose.

Pocket Flasher:

Trim that used on back pocket of jeans for decorative purpose.

Size Strip:

Trim that used at front of pants. It contains the size of the pants.

Collar Stay

Neck Board

Back Board

Collar Stay

Butterfly

Hanger: It is used for hanging garment. There are different types of hanger for different types of garment.

Poly Bag:

I) Individual- one garment/bagII) Blister- more than 1 to 100 garments/bag

Carton:

Number of ply indicates the quality of a carton. There are


These are used for shirt to keep the shape undisturbed and to resist crease during transporting and retailing.

-3 ply carton

-5 ply carton

-7ply carton -9 ply carton etc.

Gum Tape:Gum tape is used to bind the carton.

Buckle:Metal trim used in waist band of trench coat.

Photo-in-lay:Photo of packed garment on the packet.


17.Eyelet

18.Draw-cord19. Stopper

PP Belt:It is used at the joining point of carton containing garments.

Price Ticket: Price ticket contains-

- Unit price of garment - Barcode etc.

Hanger Size:It contains garment size.

Hook and Eye:Trims that used in fastening of kid’s pants.

Tissue Paper:It is used in garments packing.

STITCH AND SEAM

Stitch:Stitch is a loop or unit in seam line, produced by sewing.

Seam:Seam is a joint where two or more plies of fabric are held together.

Sewing: Sewing is a process of producing seam by stitches of thread or threads.

Yarn & Thread: Yarn is the ply of fibres or filaments whereas the thread is the ply of yarn which is used in sewing.Thread is used in sewing because of its-

- More strength- More durability- More abrasion resistant etc.


Seam

Stitch

Methods of Stitch Formation:

Inter-looping Intra-looping Inter-locking

Loop of one thread passes through the loop of another thread.

Loop of one thread passes through the loop of same thread.

Loop of one thread passes over the loop of another thread.

TYPE OF STITCH

1. Stitch Class 100: Single thread chain stitch.

Features:

Stitches are formed one set of thread called “Needle Thread”. Stitches are formed by intra-looping. If one end of stitch is pulled then whole sewing will be opened.

Sub-Classes:

a) 101:

Uses:It is used for blasting (temporary stitching). e.g. Blazer components joining before final sewing to cooperate sewing.

b) 103: Blind Stitch.


Feature:One side is invisible and other side is like chain.

Use:Bottom hemming of dress pants.

2. Stitch Class 200: Hand Stitch.

Features: Sewing thread is alternately visible in at top and bottom side. Special type of sewing machine is used.

Sub-Classes:

a) 202:This type of stitch is formed by hand.

b) 209:This type of stitch is formed by “Pique Stitch Machine’’.

Uses: Lapel of Blazer, collar of shirt, saddle stitch etc.

Saddle Stitch:

A special type of stitch which is formed by Pique Stitch Machine using Thick thread. It is used in Cowboy Jeans.

3. Stitch Class 300: Lock Stitch.

Features:


Upper Side

Bottom Side

Upper side

Bottom side

This type of stitch is formed by two sets of threads called- Needle thread & Bobbin thread.

This type of stitch has more strength and security but very poor elasticity. Because of small storage capacity of bobbin this process is time consuming.

Sub-Classes:

a) 301:

Use:Top stitching in garments.

b) 304:

Uses: Elastic attaching, lace attaching etc.

4. Stitch Class 400: Multi-thread Chain Stitch.

Features: This type of stitch is formed by two sets of threads called- Needle thread &Looper thread. One side of stitch is like lock stitch and other side is like chain. Elasticity is excellent.

Sub-Classes:

a) 401: 1Needle + 1Looper

Uses: Inseam and out seam of jeans.

b) 406: 2Needle + 1Looper


Needle Thread

Bobbin Thread

Bobbin Thread

Uses: Sleeve and bottom hem of T-shirt.

c) 407: 3Needle + 1Looper

Uses: Sleeve and bottom hem of T-shirt & Polo-shirt.

Hemming:

Hem is the end of the garment and the process of making hem is called hemming.

5. Stitch Class 100: Over edge Neatening.

Features: This type of stitch is used to prevent the fraying out of loose yarns of the edge of fabric, It also called Edging.

Sub-Classes:

a) 503: 1Needle + 1Looper

Use: Only for edging.


Uses: For edging & light seaming.



1N 1L 1N 2L

1N 1L 1N 1L

Uses: For edging & heavy seaming.

d) 515: 401.503

e) 516: 401.504

N.B. : 503,504,514 are British Standard & 515 & 516 (Combination Stitch) are US Standard.

6. Stitch Class 100: Covering Chain Stitch:

Features: This type of stitch is produced by 3 sets of thread. One set is called Needle thread and

other two are called top & bottom covering thread. It is very complicated.

Sub-Classes:

a) 602: 2Needle + 2LooperUse: Sleeve and bottom hem of T-shirt, Polo-shirt & decorative purpose.


Uses: For decorative purpose & elastic attaching of under garments.


Uses: For edging & seaming.


Uses: Not used in our country.

TYPE OF SEAM

1. Seam Class-1: Superimposed Seam.

Here edges of the fabrics are placed together and sewing is done along edge.e.g.- side seam & inseam of pants.

2.Seam Class-2: Lapped Seam.

Here edges of the fabrics are placed opposite to each other and sewing is done on the overlapping portion.e.g.- side seam & inseam of pants, Lungi etc.

3.Seam Class-3: Bound Seam.

Here the edge of the fabric is bound by a strip of fabric.e.g.- Pocket of pants and other decorative purpose.


4.Seam Class-4: Flat Seam.

Here the edges of the fabrics are placed by side & then sewn.e.g.- Cut & sew garments.

5.Seam Class-5: Decorative Seam.

Here the edges of the fabrics are closed by a strip of fabric.e.g.- Decorative garments

6.Seam Class-6: Edge Neatening Seam.

Here the edges of the fabrics are cut and then sewn for clean edging.


e.g.- Hemming of knit garments.

7.Seam Class-7:

When additional part such as elastic , lace etc. are attached to the fabric then Seam Class-7 is used.

8.Stitch Class-8:

When self-fabric is folded and sewn then seam class-8 is produced.e.g.- Belt loop of pants, box plate of shirt, hemming of T-shirt & Polo-shirt.

SEWING THREAD

Types of Sewing thread being used in the garments industry of Bangladesh-

1. Polyester Core spun Thread.

2. Spun Polyester Thread.

3. Staple Spun Cotton Thread.

4. Textured Polyester Thread.

5. Polyester Cotton Core spun Thread.

6. Trilobal Polyester Thread.


Elastic

1.PolyesterCorespun Thread:

This is more costly thread. This type of thread is produced by spinning staple polyester fibre around a core of high tenacity continuous filament polyester in yarn-spinning operation. Two or more of these composite yarns are then twisted together to give the necessary size and tensile strength. e.g. Epic(Coats).

Uses: Mainly used in topstitching of shirts, blouses, trousers, sportswear, jeans & work clothes etc.

Advantages:

o Exceptionally strong.

o Its resistance to abrasion helps ensure long seam life in a wide variety of

materials.o Fine threads can be used for delicate fabric without compromising on strength,

thereby avoiding problems like seam pucker

2. Spun Polyester Thread:

Staple polyester fibres are spun into polyester yarn. Then two or more of spun polyester yarns are twisted together to produce spun polyester thread.

e.g. Astra (Coats)

Advantages:

o 1.High tenacity of polyester ensures greater strength and thereby high

abrasion resistance.


Core polyester filament

Staple polyester filament

o 2.Very least amount of shrinkage (less than 1%) compared to cotton thread.

Uses: Mainly for over-edging. Also used for general seaming of shirts, trousers, knitwear, jackets, blouses etc.

3. Staple Spun Cotton Thread:

Normally long staple cotton fibres are spun into cotton yarn. Then two or more ply of spun cotton yarn are twisted together to produce spun cotton thread.

e.g. dymax (Coats)

Advantages:

o 100% cotton thread have relatively low strength and elongation compared to

those in synthetic thread, therefore they need relatively light sewing tension and high stitch densities.

o B. Very high amount of shrinkage compared to synthetic thread.

Uses: Mainly used in sewing cotton garments that are to be post dyed.

4. Textured Polyester Thread:

Made from textured continuous polyester filament.

(Note- texturing means modification by applying crimp to thefilament) .e.g. Gramax (Coats).

Advantages:

o 1.Provides high softness and comfort.

o High extensibility and seam strength enhance higher seam security.

Uses: Mainly used in “next to the skin” seams for high softness .e.g. under ware, swimwear, baby wear, Also widely used in over-locking and covering stitches for high extensibility and seam security.


5. Polyester Cotton Core spun Thread:

A Made of polyester filament in the core and staple cotton fibre which wraps polyester filament. Two or three plies of this yarn are twisted together to make thread.

e.g. dual duty (Coats).

Advantages:

o This thread has been developed to improve the properties cotton and to get the

opportunities of both cotton and polyester fibre. o Very low shrinkage, good strength and cotton core protects poly core from needle heat

and high ironing temperature.

Uses: fine cotton denim shirt , outdoor wear etc.

6. Trilobal Polyester thread:

Newly developed polyester fibre to improve the dullness of usual polyester fibre.Trilobal poly is a multiple filament, twisted, high-sheen continuous fiber thread. It has the bright appearance of rayon or silk. Triangular shaped fibers reflect more light and give an attractive sparkle to

Uses:embroidery for garment.

PACKING INTO CARTON

The garments which are ready to shipment must be packed into carton according to the buyer’s requirement. They can be packed into carton according to the following methods-

2. Solid color solid size:The size of garments and color will be same when packed into carton. Here the carton contains same color and size.

Color SGreen 300


2. Solid color assorted size:Here color ofgarments mill be same but size of color will be different. The carton containssame color but not same size.

Color S M LGreen 200 300 400 .

6. Assorted color solid size:The color of garments will be different but the size of all garments will be same when it is packed into carton. Here the carton contains same size of garments but not samesize.

Color SGreen 200Red 300

Assorted color assorted size: The size of garments is different also of garments will be different while packing into carton .The carton contains different color garments with different size.

Color S M LGreen 100 200 300Yellow 300 500 400Blue 200 250 150

Effluent Treatment Plan:


Process description

The effluent from different sources will be collected in an Equalization tank through a Bar Screen. Bar Screen will remove large floating materials. The equalized effluent is then pumped to a Flocculation tank. Coagulation agents, like Lime, Alum and Polyelectrolyte will be dosed in the Flocculation Tank to agglomerate the suspended particles. The effluent from this tank will pass through the Primary Tube Settler where flocks are removed. After primary tube settler, the effluent flows to the Aeration Tank, where BOD & COD are removed. The pH of the effluent will be corrected to bring to the level of 8 to 8.5. After Aeration Tank, the effluent will pass through a Secondary Clarifier where suspended biological solids are re-moved. From Secondary Clarifier, the effluent will be discharge to drain.

Sludge generation from primary clarifier will be taken to sludge pit or sludge drying bed. From sludge pit sludge will be fed to centrifuge followed by filter press unit. Sludge cakes generation from filter press will be dried and can be disposed suitably. Sludge from second-ary clarifier will be re-circulated back to aeration tank and periodically to sludge pit.


Water treatment plant:

Water for a textile plant may come from various sources .These includes surface water from rivers and lakes, and subterranean water from wells.

The various salts present in water depend on the geological formations through which the water has flowed. These salts are mainly the carbonates (CO3

2-), hydrogen carbonates or bicarbonates ( HCO3

-), Sulphates ( SO42-) and chlorides ( Cl-) of calcium ( Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+) .

Although calcium and magnesium carbonates in limestone are relatively insoluble in water. So in this reasons, water hardness can be divided into two ways

1) Temporary hardness:Ca(HCO3)2 , Mg(HCO3)2 , Fe(HCO3)2

2) Permanent hardness:CaCl2 , CaSO4 , Ca (NO3)2 , MgCl2 , MgSO4 , Mg(NO3)2

This water hardness causes some serious consequences in a textile dyeing and finishing

Industries and these are

1 Precipitation of soaps. 2. Redeposit ion of dirt and insoluble soaps on the fabric being washed,

a. this can cause yellowing and lead to uneven dyeing and poor handle. 2 Precipitation of some dyes as calcium and magnesium salts. 3 Scale formation on equipment and in boilers and pipelines. 4 Reduction of the activity of the enzymes used in washing. 5 Incompatibility with chemicals in finishing recipes and so on.

Hardness expressed by parts per million (ppm) of CaCO3 which is standard hardness scale

and it is also called American hardness.

Capacity: 1200000 Liter Per dayAverage used 110000 liter and H2SO4 is used 150-200 liter.

Maintenance Tool or Equipment:

1 Digital Multimeter. 2 Soldering Iron. 3 Sucker. 4 Cutting player. 5 Nose player. 6 Combination.


7 Spanner set. 8 Adjustable range. 9 Star screw driver. 10 Flat screw driver. 11 Pipe range. 12 Hummer 13 Electrical grading machine. 14 Cutting. 15 Hand drill, base drill. 16 Circuit opener and closer. 17 Thread cutter. 18 Measuring tape. 19 Micro meter. 20 Slide calipers. 21 Wilding machine.

Maintenance

Maintenance is a procedure by which Maintenance is a process by which equipment is looked after in such a way that trouble free. Service and increased machine life can be ensured and specific product quality required by the customers is sustained. Maintenance of machinery is very important for proper working of machine.

Objective of Maintenance:

To ensure specified accuracy to product & time schedule of delivery to customer.To keep the

machine down time to minimum thus to have control over the productionprogram.

To keep the production cycle within the stipulated range.

To modify the machine settings to meet the need for the production.

There are Three Types of Maintenance

Preventive Maintenance:

Preventive maintenance is a predetermined routine actively to ensure on time inspection / checking of facilities to uncover conditions that may lead to production break downs or harmful


description

Break down maintenance:

In this case, repairs are made after the equipment is out of order and it cannot perform its normal functions.

Routine Maintenance:

Maintenance of different M/Cs is prepared by expert engineer of maintenance department. Normally in case of dyeing m/c maintenance after 30 days complete checking of different important parts are done.

OKTL have brake down maintenance;in hear this dept. is so week. All kind of maintenance work done by this people but no of worker is not enough in this department.


Conclusion:

Technical education and its adoption in practical field,inextricably, without the implementation

of the knowledge gathered in technical education its success bound to suffer. Therefore, this two

months long industrial as a partial fulfillment of our B.Sc. in textile Engineering course helped

us to accomplish the gap between the theoretical and practical knowledge by providing an

elementary idea about industrial environment processing machines, tools, equipment’s

production system and maintenance , administration and management system .

We completed our industrial training at Orion Knit Textiles Ltd. It was established just a few

years ago with latest model of different machinery within a very short time it earned name and

fame at home and abroad for its quality in production and administrative facilities. The industry

has been a setting up of a 100% export oriented composite knit garment unit. The project is set

up with Knitting, Dyeing finishing and garments facilities.

Two month is not long period and it not sufficient time to learn all area in a factory but can

achieve an idea and can introduced with factory environment. In factory all the employs were

very busy to his/ her own responsibility, so they cannot supervise us properly, but they were very

cordial to us.Orion Knit Textile Ltd. also called a training house of Textile Engineer.

At our training period we gather some knowledge which can be play a vital role in our pro-

fissional life. Beside the theoretical knowledge, by industrial training a student can increase

his/her knowledge properly. At training period if a student can supervise by a experience person

at industry with university he can appropriately learn vast knowledge. We successfully

completed our training, we try to gather all necessary information but it is true that within this

short period it is quiet impossible to achieve 100% success but as a whole this industry training

was a satisfactory one again I would like to thank the authority of Orion Knit Textile Ltd. as well

as my honorable teachers for their altruistic help and advice .


Some Suggestion for Orion Knit Textile:

1. All Interne student not proper support from OKTL employee so OKTL people not proper instruction for interne student as a result they are some missing gathers knowledge.2. Sometimes we are facing electricity problem so I think this problem solving process is another electricity line.3. Proper man power problem because OKTL have not sufficient skilled man power. 4. OKTL lab have not sufficient instrument as a result OKTL missing some order.5. OKTL factory space is big but they are not enough machines for production as a result they are some missing big order.6. I think OKTL marketing team is very slow as a result they have not catching direct buyer if marketing department change they are working policy I think they are catch buyer directly.7. Not enough certificates& membership in OKTL,I think more certificates& membership is important for big order.8. ETP plant will use more chemical for better neutralization of ETP water.


Education

OKTL BY SHIHAB