Perfumes

• Nowadays top brands often select

and create the best scents on the market.

They’re classy, unmistakable and will

sweep you, or the object of your affection,

off your feet.

Perfumes are one of the most difficult

accessories to define and to pin down , the

reason being that they are such a personal

choice and have so many elusive qualities.

Even though perfumes are expensive (for both

men and women), they are well worth the money

, as they can conjure up a host of feelings and be

a pleasant experience for both the wearer

thereof, as well the people close to the person

wearing the perfume.

Perfume is thousands of years old

Word "perfume" comes from the Latin

per fume "through smoke".

A mixture of fragrant essential oils

and aroma compounds, fixatives, and

solvents used to give the human

body, objects, and living spaces a

pleasant smell.

Perfume Defined

To the ancients, burning perfumed substances meant communicating with lost loved ones.

Perfume Defined

Because the first perfumes were aromatics kindled/burned incense to the Gods and Ancestors . . .

Perfume Defined

Scented smoke was thought by ancient society members to attract good influences

Perfumes: The Begining• Earliest use of plant fragrance lost in history

• Perfume (burning plants) may have been first use

• Egyptians using scented oils at least 5000 years ago

• Egyptian men would put solid cone of perfume on the head, let it melt

History of PerfumeNear East: Medes/

Persians

Egyptians

Greeks

The Egyptians were the first to

incorporate perfume into their culture

followed by the ancient Chinese, Hindus,

Israelites, Arabs,

Greeks, and Romans.

• Greeks used various scents for different body parts– mint, marjorum,

thyme, etc

• Romans scented clothes, houses, bedding and bath oil, as well as their bodies

• Japanese and Chinese used incense as clocks

http://www.nawcc.org/museum/nwcm/galleri

es/asian/incense.htm

Perfume In Arab

• Perfume use in daily life

• Muslims used amber

musk and roses

• Religious aspect

Perfume

• Up until then, perfumes were produced with an oil or animal fat base and were used as lotions and pomades.

. Venice and Florence were the capitals of the perfumes during the Renaissance.

• In Europe it came in the 14th century.

•

• Hungary produced the first modern perfume in 1371.

• Modern perfumery began in the late 19th century with the commercial synthesis of aroma compounds such as vanillin or coumarin

Today Perfume is…

Compared to other varieties of scent, PERFUMES arelonger lasting on the skin and are more more expensive

because they contain greater percentage of essential oils

“Perfume” is a substance that imparts a scent or

odour, including a sweet and pleasant smell.

“Fragrance” is a sweet smell emitted by a material

or object.

Both terms are synonymous and are

interchangeably used in cosmetic and perfumery

industry.

A fragrance is best described as a complex

mixture of ingredients specifically blended to

produce specific scent.

Perfumes and Fragrances

Today Perfume is…

Eau de Toilette contains

less than 5%essential oil

Ethyl alcoholSlight Water

A mixture of 22% to

33% essential oils

Perfume

Perfume Intensity

Eau de Cologne (3-6%)

Eau de Toilette (6-9%)

Eau de Parfum (> 15%)

Parfum Extrait (> 30%)

Perfume - most potent and expensive form with

25-40% of fragrance oil. Apply sparingly as its

concentration means more intensity on skin and

lasts for 9-16 hours.

Eau de Parfum - 18-25% of fragrance oil, the rest

is alcohol and water and lasts for 6-9 hours.

Eau de Toilette - lighter fragrance with 8-15%

fragrance oil and lasts for 4-6 hours.

Eau de Cologne - 5-15% of fragrance oil and

lasts 2-4 hours

Mist - Increasingly popular nowadays as all over

body spray with 3-7% fragrance oil and lasts for 1-2

hours. Can be applied lavishly. Storing them in the

fridge increases its cooling effect.

Splash and after Shave – 1-3% of Fragrance Oil

and lasts 30 minutes- 1 hour

FormFragrance

Concentration %Hours to

last on skinPERFUME 25 to 40 9 to 16

EAU DE PARFUM 15 to 25 6 to 9

EAU DE TOILETTE 8 to15 4 to 6

EAU DE COLOGNE 5 to 15 2 to 4

PERFUME MIST 3 to 7 1 to 2

SPLASH & AFTER SHAVE 1 to 3 .30 to 1

Top notes: The scents that are perceived

immediately on application of a perfume. Also

called the head notes.

Middle notes: The scent of a perfume that

emerges just prior to when the top notes dissipate.

They are also called the heart notes.

Base notes: The scent of a perfume that

appears close to the departure of the middle notes.

Base notes bring depth and solidity to a perfume.

Compounds of this class of scents are typically rich

and "deep" and are usually not perceived until 30

minutes after

application.

Perfume

Perfume Notes

HEAD NOTE

HEART NOTE

BASIC NOTE

e.g. Lemon, Aqua

e.g. Jasmine, Rose

e.g. Musk, Vanilla

Apply fragrance on the warmest areas such as the back of the knee, crook of the elbow, neck and decolletage(chest/breast area) as scent is activated by body heat.

When trying out new scents, limit tests to 3 or 4 at a time. The nose gets numb with more and you get "nose fatigue".

Fragrance has two enemies: light and heat

Store fragrance out of direct sunlight to maximize a

scent’s life

Stash seldom used fragrances in their boxes and in the

refrigerator.

Sprays last longer than splash bottles because our

bacteria bearing fingers never make contact with the

juice.

Choice of fragrances:

It is best to know the different personalities

of our fragrances and the customers

• There’s a fragrance for different occasions

• There’s a fragrance for different personalities

• Understanding the customer’s personality and

lifestyle and matching his/her needs with

what’s in the line helps encourage multiple

purchases

Chemical Composition of Fragrance

• The chemical responsible for the aromatic character of a fragrance

can be divided into three broad categories.

• Terpenoids: different number five carbon isoprene units including

cis and trans produce terpenoid compounds of different scent like

lemon grass, linalol etc.

• Aliphatics: straight chain organic chemicals make most of modern

fragrances, based on molecular structure they can be-

Aldehydes, Alcohols, Esters, Ketones (Lavender), Lactones

(coconut).

•Benzenoids: Fused Benzene ring, obtained during coal tar

processing, like Benzyl Acetate (Jasmine), Phenyl ehyl

alcohol/acetate (Rose), cinnamic aldehyde (Cinnamon).

Types of perfumery ingredients

+ Odorants

+ Concretes

+ Absolutes

+ Tinctures

+ Distilled oils

+ Expressed Oils

+ Fixatives

+ Extenders

Concretes

• Concretes are the purest of the natural odorants. They are obtained by using a hydrocarbon solvent to dissolve the essential oils out of the plant.

• The solvent is then removed under vacuum by mild heating.

• Many factors determine which method is used. Among these are cost, quality of essence, and use of the product.

Absolutes

• Absolutes are extracted from the non-volatile materials with alcohol.

• The alcohol is removed under vacuum

• The alcohol is recovered and used in colognes and lotions.

Tinctures

• Tinctures (or alcoholic extracts) are

widely used. They are cheap, but they

are sometimes contaminated with other

undesirable products as well.

Expressed oils

• Expression is useful for things like lemon and lime peels.

• For most plants, the oils are contaminated with too many other undesirable compounds to make the method practical.

• The compounds are not changed by heat, however, and in some instances are better quality than steam distilled or fractionally distilled.

Extenders

Some essential oils, such as rose, jasmine, or neroli are very expensive.

When used in a blend it is important that their fragrance is not wasted.

Natural extenders are the oils used with the most expensive oils to make the blends affordable while at the same time respecting the notes of the precious oils.

Bark

Flowers & blossoms

Fruits

Leaves & twigs

Resin

Roots, rhizomes & bulbs

Seeds

Woods

Essential Oils• Peppermint oil : Menthol, menthone, cineole, limonene, menthfuran.

(Mentha Piperita, Labiatae, Steam Distilation)

• Spearmint Oil: Carvone (55%)

(Mentha spicata/cardiaca , Labiatae, dried leaf Steam distillation)

• Lavender Oil: Linanol, linalyl acetate, cineole.

(Lavendula officianalis, intermedia etc, Labiatae., Fresh Flowering Tops)

• Rosemary Oil: Cineole, borneol camphor, bornyl acetate and

monoterpene hydrocarbons, (Rosmarinus officinalis, Labiatae)

• Rose Oil: geraniol, citronello, nerol and 2-phenyl ethanol, (From various

Rosa alba and many other rosa species, Rosacae)

• Lemon Oil: Limon, Rutaceae, Peel, without heat.

• Clove Oil: eugenol, esters, ketones, alcohols, sesquiterpenes. (Syzgium

aromaticum, Myrtacaeae, dried flower buds, distilattion.)

• Eucalyptus Oil: Cineole (Various Eucalyptus species. Myrtaceae,

Distilled Fresh Leaves)

• Sandalwood Oil: Santalol a sesquiterpene,Heart wood of Santalum

album, Santalaceae)

Ambergris (Sperm Whale)

Castoreum (Beaver)

Civet (Civet Cat)

Hyraceum (rock badger)

Honey comb (Honey)

Musk (Musk deer)

Animal Products

• Some perfume ingredients are animal products.

For example, castor comes from beavers, musk

from male deer, and ambergris from the sperm

whale.

• Animal substances are often used as fixatives

that enable perfume to evaporate slowly and

emit odors longer.

• Alcohol and sometimes water are used to dilute

ingredients in perfumes.

MOST COMMON CHEMICALS IN THIRTY-ONE

FRAGRANCE PRODUCTS [BASED ON A] 1991

EPA STUDY

ACETONE BENZELDEHY

DE

BENZYL

ACETATE

BENZYL

ALCOHOL

CAMPHOR

LIMONEN

E

METHYLEN

E

CHLORIDE

ETHANO

L

ETHYL

ACETAT

E

LINALOOL

a-

PINENE

g-

TERPINENEa-

TERPINEOL

Perfume Theme Types Perfumes are the first use of natural raw materials. These

sources of raw materials is very broad:

flowery

Mixed flower

Plant

Fragrance

Fruits

Oriental

Forest

Flowery

Jasmine Lavender

Rosa Rose

Mainly composed by

Fragrance Type It tells us from the traditional spices to find their own favorite flavor

Lilac

Cinnamon

Vanilla

FruitsIt can allow oneself to become a lovely fruit

This can make people feel themselves to the natural

character.

Oriental --It represents the mystery

• Musk

• Mint

There is a refreshing taste because its stuff --辛辣刺激, but it

smells mysterious and very sexy.

Forest typeThese materials are the original natural spices,

This is found in people from the heart of natural attachment

• Sachet

• EbonyOak

Essential Oils

• 400 plant and 5 animal

matters are used for

perfume making

• Then alcohol is mixed with

the oils in different ratios

Perfume Manufacturing

• Many oils are extracted usually from plants

through the following methods:

Collection

Steam Distillation

Solvent Extraction

Effleurage

Maceration

Expression


1. Collection:

• Many plants are harvested, many flowers are

gathered just to obtain a few drops of the essence of

that flower

• Animal extracts are obtained directly

• Many aromatic chemicals are prepared in the

laboratory by chemists


2. Steam Distillation:

• Passage of steam,

produces oil gas

• The gas is then sent to

cooled tubes and is

liquefied

• A lot of flowers for a very

small amount of the oil


Steam Distillation

3. Solvent Extraction:


Rotation of flowers in a

container

Produces a

waxy

material

Evaporation

of alcohol

Waxy

substance

into alcohol

Addition of a solvent

Oil of higher

concentration

Solvent Extraction

4. Effleurage:

• The flowers are spread over glass

sheets with grease on it

• The grease absorbs the fragrance

• Cold effleurage

• Warm effleurage


• Enfleurage is a special method for making concretes and absolutes. The petals are pressed onto a coating of pure lard and changed often.

• After several days, the lard has dissolved the released essential oils.

• The essential oils are then removed from the lard with alcohol.

• The residual lard is pomade.

• After extraction, the lard is used to make soaps etc.

Enfleurage

Enfleurage


5. Maceration:

What Is Maceration??

• A lot similar to enfleurage

• Instead it uses warm fats

dissolved in alcohol

• Very much same as the

solvent extraction also

Maceration

6. Expression:• The simplest of all, used on citrus plants, their flowers and

peels

• Manual extraction

• Steel Pick Expression

• ‘Through Sponge’ Expression



7. Blending:• Mixing of the components according to the specific

recipe

• What is a “NOSE” ??

• Difference between a:

► Perfume

► Cologne

► Eau de toilette


8. Aging:

• The perfumes when are made they are kept for a few

years or more in the shelves

• The “nose” tests whether the perfume has the specific

smell or not

Hypercritical CO2 Extraction of Essential Oils for

Perfume Making: A Modern Way of Oil Extraction

8. Hypercritical CO2 Extraction:

• A new way of extraction of oils

• An expensive way though

• CO2 is used in this method


Hypercritical CO2 Extraction

Flow Sheet

A “nose”

National Geographic

• Feeling of elegance comes from perfumes.

Perfumes and fragrances are used to

scent wide variety of body and bath

products such as cologne, deodorant, after

shave lotions, hair care products etc. But

do you know that these wonderful

perfumes can be dangerous for you? Here

are some side effects and problems

caused due to perfumes

Skin problems

Carcinogenicity

Aggravate lung disease.

Affect the brain as well

Cause instant headaches, dizziness, nausea and mood swings.

Sinus, watery eyes, inability to focus mentally etc.

Absorbed by the skin and introduced into the blood stream.

NEUROLOGICAL DISORDERS :• They modify brain blood flow, alter

blood pressure, pulse, and mood and

trigger migraine headaches.

• Musk ambrette, used for decades, was

found to be neurotoxic

• Several common fragrances, when

inhaled, have potent sedative effects.

• CNS disorders also include Multiple

Sclerosis, Parkinson's Disease,

Alzheimer's Disease.

Synthetic vs natural: what are the

issues?

• “The truth about fragrance oils”

– www.earthmamaangelbaby.com/fragrance_oils.html

– “Each essential oil comes from just one source, a

living plant. There are no chemicals involved.”

• Remember, they are all chemicals!

• We may actually know more about the synthetic

mixtures than the natural ones

Concerns

• Toxicity to people?

• Allergens?

• Increasing asthma incidence?

• Unknown compounds in the mix?

• Persistence in the environment?

– Example: synthetic musk

Synthetic musk

• May accumulate in some organisms

(e.g. mussels), prevents removal of

other toxins

ENVIRONMENTAL EFFECTS

• Fragrances are volatile compounds and are

constantly released into the air. The widespread

use and vast number of fragranced products

cause extensive indoor and outdoor pollution.

• They are persistent and accumulate in different

compartments of the environment.

PRECAUTIONS

• Do not use perfume oil internally

• If you have a highly sensitive skin, please consult with a physician before use

• Before applying any perfume or body oils to the skin, always test a small area of skin for any adverse reactions.

• Use caution when using perfume oil products that contain citrus oils. They can irritate sensitive skin.

• People with high blood pressure should

avoid the more stimulating essential oils,

such as basil, rosemary and thyme.

• People with low blood pressure should

avoid the more sedating essential oils, such as clary sage, ylang ylang and

lavender.

• People with asthma should avoid using

essential oils.

• Keep perfume oil out of the reach of

pets and children.

Perfume

Perfume Bottle

glass

diffuser

cap

The Future

• Aromatherapy—smelling oils and fragrances to cure

physical and emotional problems—is being revived to

help balance hormonal and body energy. Smelling sweet

smells also affects one's mood and can be used as a

form of psychotherapy.

Like aromatherapy, more research is being conducted to

synthesize human perfume—that is, the body scents

we produce to attract or repel other humans. Humans,

like other mammals, release pheromones to attract the

opposite sex. New perfumes are being created to

duplicate the effect of pheromones and stimulate sexual

arousal receptors in the brain. Not only may the

perfumes of the future help people cover up "bad"

smells, they could improve their physical and emotional

well-being as well as their sex lives.

http://www.madehow.com/knowledge/Aromatherapy.html

References1. Harry R.G., Reiger M.M., Harry’s Cosmeticology, Chemical publishing company.

Newyork

2. Balsam M.S., Sagarin E., Cosmetics: Science and Technology. Wiley Interscience.

Newyork

3. Rao Y.M., Shayeda, Cosmeceuticals, Pharma Med Press. Hyderabad

4. Paye M., Basel A.O., Maibach H.I., Handbook of Cosmetic Science & Technology,

Informa

Healthcare. Newyork

5. Sharma P.P., Cosmetics Formulation, Manufacturing and Quality control, Vandana

Publication Pvt. Ltd. Delhi

6. Poucher W.A., Butler H., Poucher’s Perfumes, Cosmetic & Soaps, Springer India Pvt.

Ltd. New

Delhi.

7. Nanda S., Nanda A., Cosmetic Technology, Birla Publication, Delhi.

8. SCCS's Notes of Guidance for the Testing of Cosmetic Ingredients and their Safety

Evaluation, 7th Revision. European Commission.

9. Indian Pharmacopoeia 2014(7th edition), Ministry of Health and Family Welfare,

Published by

Govt. of India.

Education

Perfumes