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Comparisons of Spinning Systems
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Spinning SystemsLearning the differences
What is spinning?
The act or processing of converting staple or short lengths of fiber into continuous yarns.
Dictionary.com
Most common types of spinning for apparel fabrics
•Ring Spinning•Compact•Open End•Air jet
Processing Table
CONVENTIONAL
Fiber CP Syn Carding x x Drawing x x*
Lap wind x Combing x Drawing x x Roving x x Spinning x x Winding x x
Process 8 6
MODERN
Fiber CP Syn Carding x x Drawing x x* Lap wind x Combing x Drawing x x Spinning x x
Process 6 4
Roving
Yarn count ranges: 6’s to 250’s
Fibers: (1) Long (2) Fine (3) Strong
Ring Spinning
Perforated Drum
air
Roving
Yarn count range: 6’s to 250+
Fibers: (1) Long (2) Fine (3) Strong
Compact Spinning
Yarn Structure
Compact
Ring Spun - SiroRing Spun
Conventional Ring Spun Versus Siro
Ringspun yarn
SwissCotton Royal
Why Royal Spun?
Very good pilling values and durability (Pilling (Martindale) improved by 1.0 to 1.5 grades)
Less surface hairiness, clear mesh structure Excellent evenness of knit fabrics Less fiber accumulations knitted into the fabric Luster Great alternative to plied yarns Less energy Softer than plied yarns More economical than plied yarns
Modern systems are typical “Sliver to Yarn” system
Less Processing !!!
Refer to Slide 4
Open End - Schlafhorst
Open End - Rieter
Typical yarn count range: 6’s to 30’s
Fibers: (1) Fine (2) Strong (length is not as important as ring spinning)
Vdf , Mf
Transport Air Channel
Rotor Yarn Package
Feed RollSliver
Condenser
Sliver
Feed PlateTrashCombing Roll
Open End Rotor Spinning
Typical yarn count range: 20’s to 60’s
Fibers: (1) Long (2) Strong (length is not as important as ring spinning)
Core of
Parallel Fibers
Wrapping
Fibers
N1
N2
Front Roller
Spinnin
g Ten
sion
H
Middle Roller
Back RollerApron Pressure
b
Mai
n Dra
ft
k
Murata Air Jet Spinning
Open End Spinning
Murata Vortex
Rieter Air Jet
Still very new in the market…
Spinning Efficiency and Endsdown:Key Fiber Properties by the order of importance:
Roving
Vdf, Mf
Transport Air Channel
Rotor Yarn Package
Feed RollSliver
Condenser
Sliver
Feed PlateTrashCombing Roll
Core of
Parallel Fibers
Wrapping
Fibers
N1
N2
Front Roller
Spinnin
g Ten
sion
H
Middle Roller
Back RollerApron Pressure
b
Mai
n Dra
ft
k
1. Short Fiber length2. Trash content 3. Roving twist level
1. Trash content2. Short Fiber content 3. Sliver Uniformity
1. Trash content2. Short Fiber Content3. Sliver Uniformity
Fiber Quality Impact
Energy Comparison
Different Yarn Counts =
Different Quality Levels
Do all yarns within the same spinning system require the same type and quality of fibers?
Mic
FSFLFQI
.
FL = HVI Fiber Length (inch)FS = HVI Fiber Strength (g/tex)Mic = Micronaire
FQI Upland Cotton ELS Cotton
Min 3.0 10.0
Max 10.0 15.0
Fiber Quality Index (FQI)
Different Yarn Counts Require Different Fiber Indexes
Fiber Quality Index vs. Yarn Count-Ring Spun & Rotor Spun Carded Yarns
Fiber Quality Index VS Yarn Count-Ring Spun & Compact Combed Yarn
Different Cotton canResult in substantial difference in Quality
and Cost
Is Cotton just Cotton or a Different Cotton can Make a World of Difference?
Ranking By Category
System Pilling Torque Strength Drape Durability* Price
Ring Spinning 3 4 2 1 1 3
Compact 2 3 1 2 2 4
Open End 4 2 4 4 4 2
Air Jet 1 1 3 3 3 1
***The lower the number the better
* Repeated use over time
Assumptions
1. Spinning 30/1 Ne 100% Lenzing Modal Yarn for knits
2. Subsequent processing is the same
What questions should I ask?
There are literally hundreds of variables in the spinning
process which influence the outcome of fabric and
garments.
Fiber Related
Where is the source of fiber? Do you have a relationship with the
fiber producer and spinner? What are the parameters in which
the spinner purchases the fiber? Does the fiber perform to
expectations in relation to yarn count and fabric properties?
How is my garment impacted by fiber cost?
Machine Related
Do you have a relationship with the machine manufacturer?
What are the machine’s unique features?
Does the manufacturer of the machines offer excellent service, adequate training, and able to respond quickly to parts and repair needs?
Supply Chain Related
Is the spinner willing to partner with you and your the supply chain to improve the quality and performance of fabrics?
Same goes with the machinery manufacturer?
Will your fabric supplier be open to the idea of you stating the spinner you want to use? There may be bonds which need to be
broken for this to happen..
Credits
Dr. Yehia El-Mogahzy,Auburn University [email protected]
Rob Beal, Oerlikon [email protected]
Mark Lingerfelt, Muratec [email protected]
Hans Rothen, Rieter [email protected]
