TEXTILE

ECOLOGY

Presented By:

Mona Verma

Ph.D. Research Scholar

Deptt. of Textile and Apparel

Designing, CCSHAU,HISAR

mona.verma35057@gmail.com

Ecology is the study of interaction between living organisms

and their environment, which includes atmosphere ,water and

pollutants.

The pollutants in water and atmosphere are either present

naturally like micro-organism ,or introduced by man through

industrial gases and effluent.

These pollutants interfere with the natural growth of the

living beings, including plants, animals and human beings.

Thus insecticide, pesticides, herbicides, chemical wastes, gases

of nitogen oxides and sulphur oxides, formaldehyde,

chlorine, oil spills and radio active contaminants have a direct

bearing on the ecology of a given area.

Ecology

Acid rain is precipitation containing harmful amounts of nitric and

sulfuric acids.

These acids are formed primarily by nitrogen oxides and sulfur oxides

released into the atmosphere when fossil fuels are burned.

These acids fall to the Earth either as wet precipitation (rain, snow, or

fog) or dry precipitation (gas and particulates).

Some are carried by the wind, sometimes hundreds of miles.

In the environment, acid rain damages trees and causes soils and water

bodies to acidify, making the water unsuitable for some fish and other

wildlife. It also speeds the decay of buildings, statues, and sculptures that

are part of our national heritage.

Eutrophication is a condition in a water body where high

concentrations of nutrients (such as nitrogen) stimulate blooms of

algae, which in turn can cause fish kills and loss of plant and

animal diversity. Although eutrophication is a natural process in

the aging of lakes, human activities can greatly accelerate

eutrophication by increasing the rate at which nutrients enter

aquatic ecosystems.

Haze is caused when sunlight encounters tiny pollution particles

in the air. Haze obscures the clarity, color, texture, and form of

what we see.

Some haze-causing pollutants (mostly fine particles) are directly

emitted to the atmosphere by sources such as power plants,

industrial facilities, trucks and automobiles, and construction

activities.

Others are formed when gases emitted to the air (such as sulfur

dioxide and nitrogen oxides) form particles as they are carried

downwind.

Ozone depletion:

Ozone is a gas that occurs both at ground-level and in the Earth's upper

atmosphere, known as the stratosphere. At ground level, ozone is a

pollutant that can harm human health.

In the stratosphere, however, ozone forms a layer that protects life on

earth from the sun's harmful ultraviolet (UV) rays. ozone is gradually

being destroyed by man-made chemicals referred to as ozone-depleting

substances, including chlorofluorocarbons,

hydrochlorofluorocarbons, and halons.

These substances were formerly used and sometimes still are used in

coolants, foaming agents, fire extinguishers, solvents, pesticides, and

aerosol propellants. Thinning of the protective ozone layer can cause

increased amounts of UV radiation to reach the Earth, which can lead

to more cases of skin cancer, cataracts, and impaired immune systems.

UV can also damage sensitive crops, such as soybeans, and reduce

crop yields.

Global climate change: The Earth's atmosphere contains a delicate

balance of naturally occurring gases that trap some of the sun's heat

near the Earth's surface.

This "greenhouse effect" keeps the Earth's temperature stable.

Unfortunately, evidence is mounting that humans have disturbed this

natural balance by producing large amounts of some of these

greenhouse gases, including carbon dioxide and methane.

As a result, the Earth's atmosphere appears to be trapping more of the

sun's heat, causing the Earth's average temperature to rise - a

phenomenon known as global warming.

Textile Ecology

Textile ecology consists of four sectors.

Textile Ecology

Human EcologyProduction

Ecology

Performance

Ecology

Disposal

Ecology

Production Ecology

Production ecology examines the impact of production

processes on people and environment.

e.g. occupational health and safety, material,

water and energy consumption,

waste water and waste treatment as well as generation of dust

and noise.

PRODUCTION ECOLOGY COMPRISING :

1. Cultivation and harvesting of natural fibres

2. Manufacture of manmade fibre

3. Manufacture of threads and fabric

4. Bleaching, dyeing, printing and finishing of textiles

5. Garments manufacture ,with the application of fertilizers, growth

regulator, crop protection agents (pesticides etc),dyes, pigments and

textile chemicals ,auxiliaries and finishing agents.

Parameters: Parameters which affects the production of ecology

Important parameters in theoretical production models thus are:

Climate

Temperature -

The temperature determines the speed of respiration and the dark

reaction.

A high temperature combined with a low intensity of sunlight

means a high loss by respiration.

Light - Light, also called photosynthetic Active Radiation (PAR) is

the energy source for green plant growth.

PAR powers the light reaction, which provides ATP and NADPH

for the conversion of carbon dioxide and water

into carbohydrates and molecular oxygen.

When temperature, moisture, carbon dioxide and nutrient levels

are optimal, light intensity determines maximum production

level.

Carbon dioxide levels - Atmospheric carbon dioxide is the sole carbon

source for plants. About half of all proteins in green leaves have the sole

purpose of capturing carbon dioxide.

Although CO2 levels are constant under natural circumstances [on the

contrary, CO2 concentration in the atmosphere has been increasing

steadily for 200 years], CO2 fertilization is common in greenhouses and

is known to increase yields by on average 24% [a specific value, e.g.,

24%, is meaningless without specification of the "low" and "high" CO2

levels being compared] .

C4 plants like maize and sorghum can achieve a higher yield at high

solar radiation intensities, because they prevent the leaking of

captured carbon dioxide due of the spatial separation of carbon

dioxide capture and carbon dioxide use in the dark reaction.

This advantage is sometimes offset by a higher rate of maintenance

respiration.

In most models for natural crops, carbon dioxide levels are assumed

to be constant.

The main challenge for the textile industry today is to modify production

methods, so they are more ecologically friendly at a competitive price, by

using safer dyes and chemicals and by reducing cost of effluent treatment

/disposal.

Recycling has become a necessary element, not because of the shortage of

any item, but because of the need to control pollution.

There are three ways to reduce pollution:

(1) use of new, less polluting technologies

(2) effective treatment of effluent so that it conforms to specified

discharge requirements; and

(3) recycling waste several times over before discharge

Production Ecology And Textile Industries

Possible treatments for textile wastes

Process Advantages

In general, about 50% of the water pollution is due to waste water

from desizing, which has a high BOD that renders it unusable.

The problem can be mitigated by using enzymes that degrade starch

into ethanol rather to anhydroglucose.

The ethanol can be recovered by distillation for use as a solvent or

fuel, thereby reducing the BOD load.

Alternatively, an oxidative system like H2O2 can be used to fully

degrade starch to CO2 and H2O.

Desizing

Hypochlorite is one of the oldest industrial bleaching agents.

The formation of highly toxic chlorinated organic by-

products during the bleaching process is reduced by

adsorbable organically bound halogen (AOX).

Bleaching

An environmentally safe alternative to hypochlorite is peracetic

acid. It decomposes to oxygen and acetic acid, which is

completely biodegradable. One of the advantages of peracetic

acid is higher brightness values with less fibre damage.

Recently, a one-step preparatory process for desizing, scouring,

and bleaching has helped to reduce the volume of water.

Neutralization

Replacement of acetic acid by formic acid for neutralization of

fabric after scouring, mercerizing, bleaching, and reduction

processes is effective, economical, and environment-friendly.

The procedure also allows a sufficient level of neutralization in

a short period of time, needs low volumes of water, and results

in low levels of BOD.

Dye

Dye baths are generally heavily polluted. For example,

wastewater produced by reactive dyeing contains hydrolyzed

reactive dyes not fixed on the substrate (representing 20 to

30% of the reactive dyes applied on an average of 2 g/L).

This residual amount is responsible for the coloration of the

effluents, and cannot be recycled.

Dyeing auxiliaries or organic substances are non-recyclable

and contribute to the high BOD/COD of the effluents.

Measures adopted for the abatement of

pollution by different dyes are:

1) use of low material-to-liquor Ratios

2) use of tri-sodiumcitrate

3) replacement of reducing agent (sodium hydrosulphite)

with a reducing sugar or electrochemical reduction

In India, a majority of textile printing units prefer to use

kerosene in printing because of the brilliant prints and ease of

application.

In India alone, about 122 million liters of kerosene is released

into the atmosphere annually during printing, drying, and

curing.

The resulting pollution of the atmosphere and wastage of

hydrocarbon products is colossal. Air-laden kerosene is harmful

to human beings, as well as to the flora and fauna, in the

neighbourhood.

Printing

Printing is mainly done by a flat or rotary screen, and after every

lot of printing some residual paste is left in the wastewater.

This can be reused for printing of similar shades by adding new

stock. Recently, screenfree printing methods, such as ink-jet

printing and electrostatic printing, have been developed that make

use of an electronic control of color distribution on fabric.

Screen-free printing methods are attractive for pollution

mitigation.

Alok Industries' focus on activities related to sustainability is at the

core of its long term goal of being a leader in providing sustainable

and integrated textile solutions.

Alok industry is committed to:

• Achieve the lowest Specific Energy Consumption per unit of

product, thereby minimizing Greenhouse emissions, solid waste and

water pollution.

• Attain sustainable development by continuously improving Energy

Conservation and Energy efficiency throughout the production

cycle.

• Prevent wastage of energy in any mode - steam, water, air or

power - by efficient and most optimal use of resources.

• Comply with all applicable legislations, and best practices on

Energy Management Community Development

Human Ecology

Human ecology deals with the impact of textiles and

their chemical ingredients on the health and well-being

of humans.

Irritation from textile clothing products leading to wearer

discomfort and sometimes physical effects such as skin dermatitis

may be due to a number of factor including the garment’s

manufacturing processes.

The wearer own personal preference may also influence a

garment’s perceived comfort.

Relationship of human ecology with other

sciences

In a study by the National Institute of Occupational Health

(1998), the work stresses of 107 women engaged in sewing in small

–scale garment manufacturing units found that 68 percent of the

women complained of back pain and these problems had

persisted over a long duration .

WHO (1998) carried out a study on ready made garment workers

in Bangladesh, on a sample size of 150 women who reported

health problems like pain in the upper and lower limbs and other

aches and pains. Around 80 percent of the workers experienced

this kind of illness quite often. This was followed by backache,

which was reported by 47 percent. The major reason was the

posture adopted while working.

Salnaggio (1986) described the word Byssinosis is derived from the

Greek word “Bussus” meaning fine Linen or fine flax. Byssinosis is a

respiratory disease of workers of cotton, flax, soft hemp and is

classically characterized as shortness of breath; cough and tightness of

chest.

The noise is a cause, which created hazard in the work place. Noise

exposure at work can cause critical hearing damage.

It is one of the most occurring health problems which can be difficult

to identify because the effects build up slowly with time.

Performance Ecology

Performance ecology comes in at the usage phase of textile

products. It examines the environmental impact of washing,

cleaning and caring for textiles.

The Ecology of Human Performance was founded by occupational

therapists at the University of Kansas in 1994.

The main focus is on the interdependent nature

of the relationship between the person and the

environment and how this relationship impacts

on human performance.

Schemata for the Ecology of Human Performance

Establish/Restore- This occurs at the level of the person, where skills

and abilities are the focus of intervention.

The aim is to restore function by improving abilities and skills. This

remediation process takes place within context.

Adapt- the context manipulated and structured to support

performance.

Task demands can also be adapted to enable performance.

Alter- intervention focuses on selecting a context that would enable

performance with the person’s current skills and abilities.

This entails finding a suitable context rather than changing the

present context to meet abilities.

Prevent- the occurrence or evolution of maladaptive performance is

prevented. Prevention is the main focus of intervention.

This could be done through addressing features of the person, task

and context that could leads to occurrence or evolution of

maladaptive performance.

Create- circumstances that promote more adaptable or complex

performance within context are created.

This intervention strategy is orientated towards overall promotion

of functional performance without the assumption that disabilities

could occur or interfere with performance.

Disposal Ecology

Analyses the problems connected with disposal, reuse,

recycling and removal (thermal recycling or landfill) of

textiles.

Disposal Ecology, referring to the disposal of the textiles

after use, i.e. recycling,

composting,

dumping or

incinerating in a manner that ensures the least possible

environmental impact.

Different Methods Of

Handling Textiles

Industries Waste

Biological treatments

Biological treatments reproduce, artificially or otherwise, the

phenomena of self-purification that exists in nature.

Self-purification is the process by which an aquatic environment

achieves the re-establishment of its original quality after pollution.

Biological treatments are different depending on the presence or

absence of oxygen (Bl’anquez et al., 2006).

Activated sludge is a common process by which rates of

elimination by oxidizable substances of the order of 90% can be

realized (Pala and Tokat, 2002).

Interest in ecologically friendly, wet-processing textile

techniques has increased in recent years because of increased

awareness of environmental issues throughout the world.

Consumers in developed countries are demanding biodegradable

and ecologically friendly textiles (Chavan, 2001).

Cotton provides an ecologically friendly textile, but more than

50% of its production volume is dyed with reactive dyes.

Unfortunately, dyes are un favorable from an ecological point of

view, because the effluents generated are heavily colored,

contain high concentrations of salts, and exhibit high biological

oxygen demand/chemical oxygen demand (BOD/COD) values.

Adsorption on powdered activated carbon

The adsorption on activated carbon without pre-treatment is

impossible because the suspended solids rapidly clog the filter

(Matsui et al., 2005).

This procedure is therefore only feasible in combination with

flocculation–decantation treatment or a biological treatment.

The combination permits a reduction of suspended solids and

organic substances, as well as a slight reduction in the color

(Rozzi et al., 1999), but the cost of activated carbon is high.

The use of an electrolytic cell in which the dye house wastewater is

recirculated has been described (Lin and Chen, 1997; Lin and Peng, 1994).

The advantage of this process seems to be its capacity for adaptation to

different volumes and pollution loads.

Its main disadvantage is that it generates iron hydroxide sludge (from the

iron electrodes in the cell), which limits its use.

Electrochemical Processes.

Electro-coagulation has been successfully used to treat textile

industrial wastewaters.

The goal is to form flocs of metal hydroxides within the effluent to be

cleaned by electro-dissolution of soluble anodes.

Three main processes occur during electro-coagulation;

electrolytic reactions at the electrodes;

formation of coagulants in the aqueous phase and adsorption of

soluble or colloidal pollutants on coagulants;

removal by sedimentation and floatation.

Ozone treatment- used in water treatment

ozone (either singly or in combinations, such as O3-UV or O3-

H2O2) is now used in the treatment of industrial effluents

(Langlais et al., 2001).

Ozone especially attacks the double bonds that bestow color.

For this reason, decolorization of waste water by ozone alone does

not lead to a significant reduction in COD (Coste et al., 1996;

Adams et al., 1995).

Installation of ozonation plants can entail additional costs

Textile waste management

Depending on quality, condition and fashion accuracy there

are four basic paths for used textiles.

Textiles can be:

Used again, formally or informally

Recycled, into new textile or other products

Used for energy, incineration with energy recovery

Landfilled, waste dumps

MEMBRANE PROCESSES:

Increasing cost of water and its profligate consumption

necessitate a treatment process that is integrated with in-

plant water circuits rather than as a subsequent treatment

(Machenbach, 1998).

From this standpoint, membrane filtration offers potential

applications. Processes using membranes provide very

interesting possibilities for the separation of hydrolyzed

dye-stuffs and dyeing auxiliaries that simultaneously

reduce coloration and BOD/COD of the wastewater.

The choice of the membrane process, whether it is

reverse osmosis,

nanofiltration,

ultrafiltration or microfiltration, must be guided by the

quality of the final product.

Reverse Osmosis

Reverse osmosis membranes have a retention rate of 90% or

more for most types of ionic compounds and produce a high

quality of permeate (Ghayeni et al., 1998; Treffry-Goatley et

al., 1983; Tinghui et al., 1983).

Decoloration and elimination of chemical auxiliaries in dye

house wastewater can be carried out in a single step by reverse

osmosis.

Reverse osmosis permits the removal of all mineral salts,

hydrolyzed reactive dyes, and chemical auxiliaries. It must be

noted that higher the concentration of dissolved salt, the more

important the osmotic pressure becomes; therefore, the greater

the energy required for the separation process.

Nanofiltration.

Nanofiltration has been applied for the treatment of colored effluents

from the textile industry.

A combination of adsorption and nanofiltration can be adopted for

the treatment of textile dye effluents.

The adsorption step precedes nanofiltration, because this sequence

decreases concentration polarization during the filtration process,

which increases the process output (Chakraborty et al., 2003).

Ultrafiltration

Ultrafiltration enables elimination of macromolecules and

particles, but the elimination of polluting substances, such as

dyes, is never complete (it is only between 31% and 76%)

(Watters et al., 1991).

Even in the best of cases, the quality of the treated wastewater

does not permit its reuse for sensitive processes, such as

dyeing of textile.

Rott and Minke (1999) emphasize that 40% of the water

treated by ultrafiltration can be recycled to feed processes

termed “minor” in the textile industry (rinsing, washing) in

which salinity is not a problem.

Ultrafiltration can only be used as a pre-treatment for reverse

or in combination with a biological

reactor (Mignani et al., 1999).

Microfiltration

Microfiltration is suitable for treating dye baths containing pigment dyes,

as well as for subsequent rinsing baths.

The chemicals used in dye bath, which are not filtered by microfiltration,

will remain in the bath.

Microfiltration can also be used as a pre-treatment for nanofiltration or

reverse osmosis (Ghayeni et al., 1998).

Sustainable clothing refers to fabrics derived from eco-friendly

resources, such as sustainably grown fibre crops or recycled

materials. It also refers to how these fabrics are made.

Environmentally conscious towards clothing meant

(1) buying clothes from thrift stores or any shops that sell second-

hand clothing, or

(2) donating used clothes to shops previously mentioned, for reuse

or resale. In modern times, with a prominent trend

towards sustainability and being ‘green’, sustainable clothing

has expanded towards

(3) reducing the amount of clothing discarded to landfills, and (2)

(4) decreasing the environmental impact of agro-chemicals in

producing conventional fibre crops (e.g. cotton).

Bt cotton

To reduce the use of pesticides and other harmful chemicals,

companies have produced genetically modified (GMO) cottons

plants that are resistant to pest infestations.

Among the GMO are cotton crops inserted with the Bt (Bacillus

thuringiensis) gene. Bt cotton crops do not require insecticide

applications. Insects that consume cotton containing Bt will

stop feeding after a few hours, and die, leaving the cotton plants

unharmed.

Organic cotton

Organic cotton is grown without the use of any genetically

modification to the crops, without the use of any fertilizers,

pesticides, and other synthetic agro-chemicals harmful to the land.

A new type of organic cotton, soft to the touch and at the same

time, grown without chemicals.

SoySoy fabrics are derived from the hulls of soybean-a manufacturing

by product. Soy fabrics can be blended (i.e. 30%) or made entirely

out of soy fibres. Soy clothing is largely biodegradable, so it has a

minimal impact on environment and landfills. Although not as

durable as cotton or hemp fabrics, soy clothing has a soft, elastic

feel. Soy clothing is known as the vegetable cashmere for its light

and silky sensation. Soy fabrics are moisture absorbent, anti-

bacterial, and UV resistant.

Hemp

Hemp, like bamboo is considered a sustainable crop.

It requires little water to grow, and it is resistant to most pests and

diseases.

Unlike cotton, many parts of the hemp plant have a use. Hemp seeds, for

example, are processed into oil or food.

Hemp fibres are durable and are considered strong enough for construction

uses.

Compared to cotton fibre, hemp fibre is approximately 8 times the tensile

strength and 4 times the durability.

Hemp fibres are traditionally coarse, and have been historically used for

ropes rather than for clothing. However, modern technology and breeding

practices have made hemp fibre more pliable, softer, and finer.

Bamboo

Bamboo fabrics are made from heavily pulped bamboo grass.

Making clothing and textile from bamboo is considered

sustainable due to the lack of need for pesticides and agro-

chemicals.

Naturally disease and pest resistant, bamboo is also fast

growing.

Compared to trees, certain varieties of bamboo can grow 1–

4 inches long per day, and can even branch and expand

outward because of its underground rhizomes.

Like cotton fibers, bamboo fibers are not naturally yellowish

in color and are bleached white with chemicals during

processing.

PET plastic

PET plastics are also known as Polyethylene terephthalate

(PETE).

PET's recycling code within the three chasing arrows, is a number

one. These plastics are usually beverage bottles (i.e. water, soda,

and fruit juice bottles).

According to the EPA, plastic accounts for 12% of the total

amount of waste we produce.

Recycling plastic reduces air, water, and ground pollution.

Recycling is only the first step; investing and purchasing products

manufactured from recycled materials is the next of many steps to

living sustainably.

Clothing can be made from plastics. Seventy percent of plastic-

derived fabrics come from polyester, and the type of polyester

most used in fabrics is polyethylene terephthalate (PET).

PET plastic clothing come from reused plastics, often recycled

plastic bottles. The Coca Cola Company, for example, created a

"Drink2Wear" line of T-shirts made from recycled bottles.

main benefit of making clothes from recycled bottles is that it

keep the bottles and other plastics from occupying landfill

space. Another benefit is that it takes 30% less energy to make

clothes from recycled plastics than from virgin polyesters.

Organic and ecological textiles:

The organic & ecological textiles is continuing to grow, led by

the increasing awareness of the consumers who are now

informed of the risks conventional textiles pose to health and the

environment.

For ensure the customer in your responsible project, it is

important to ask for a control of your goods or activities in order

to guarantee the organic or ecological propriety. For that,

Ecocert offers you to certify according to:

GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) for a social and

environmental responsibility.

OCS (Organic Content Standard) to guarantee the traceability

of organic textiles .

Ecological & Recycled Textiles (Ecocert Standard) to claim

the environmental quality.

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