Chainsaw safety you need to buck up and

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P bar Y Safety Consultants Alberta Canada

Chainsaw Safety you need to buck up and pay attention

Over 40,000 people are injured by chain saws every year


You could be the next one40,000 plus you equals= 40,001 or is it just 40,000?


Get the dealer to demonstrate how to use the saw. Read the manual, learn all you can before using the saw – it’s a potential killer.

Wear snug-fitting protective equipment. That includes goggles, face and head mask, gloves, boots, ear protection, and heavy-duty clothing. Wear the equipment properly.

Carefully check the area for loose bark, broken limbs, or other damage before trees are felled or removed.

Cut safely; keep both hands on the handles. Keep the handles dry, clean and free of oil or fuel. Keep your eye on the blade and what you are cutting. Cut with the lower edge of the saw blade whenever possible. Cutting with the tip of the saw is inviting injury. Let the chainsaw do the work. Don’t try to force the saw.

Do not overreach or cut above shoulder height. It is very difficult to control the saw in awkward positions.

Do not operate a chainsaw in a tree or from a ladder unless you have been specifically trained and are equipped to do so.

When cutting a spring pole or other tree under stress, permit no one but the feller to be closer than two tree lengths when the stress is released

Do not operate a chainsaw when tired, if you have been drinking alcohol, or if you have been taking prescription medication or non-prescription drugs.

Do not smoke while refueling your saw. Move the chainsaw at least 10 feet away from the fueling point before starting the engine. Use gasoline powered chainsaws only in well ventilated areas

Sharpen the saw regularly. Look for anti-kick nose guards, quick-stop brakes, and wraparound hand guards on any

saw you use. Kickback accounts for almost a third of chain saw accidents. Don’t wear yourself out. Stay alert. Take frequent breaks.

Sound advise Bubba


Statistics, cont.

The two most common places for injuries are the front left thigh and the back of the left hand.

Statistics from U.S Consumer Product Safety Commission, 1999


Four Steps to Prevention


I really do love people who say done that got the tee shirt – then what are you doing here?

Are you horsing around


Personal Protective Equipment for Logging

Protection for your:• Head • Eyes• Ears• Legs


Head protection is required whenever there in a danger of being hit in the head from flying or propelled objects or falling objects or materials. In other words, any time you are in the woods unless you are protected by FOPS, cabs, or canopies that meet DOSH requirements. These two

need hardhats


Head Protection must be in “serviceable condition”

Metal hard hats are not serviceable if:

- There are dents in 3 ribs or more- The hat is severely dented, then pounded back out.- There are holes drilled in the hat- The suspension is bad, or- If anything has compromised the structural integrity

of the hat.

The owner drilled holes in this old 6-point hat and attached a 4-point liner with aluminum pop rivets, rendering it unserviceable.


Evidence of UV Deterioration

As it comes from the store

After too many UV rays

Plastic hats are unserviceable if:

There are visible cracks,

There is discoloration due to ultraviolet light (sun light)

If squeezing the sides of hardhat causes a popping sound (indicates plastic is breaking down – doesn’t have resiliency)

The date stamp shows the hat is past the serviceable life recommended by manufacturer.


Your EyesWhat can be more precious than your sight?

What if you could no longer see these?

There are 300 – 500 eye injuries among loggers each year in Washington State


Eye Protection is needed when using:

- Chainsaw

- Metal cut-off saw

- Line cutter

- Grinder

- Compressed air

Or, whenever there is a potential for eye injury from falling or flying objects.

Safety Glasses

Types of Eye Protection

Safety glasses must meet ANSI Z87.1 Standards for impact resistance (indicated somewhere on the glasses)



Effects of Noise Exposure

Hearing loss from noise exposure is usually not noticed because it is so gradual.

Usually a person loses the ability to hear higher pitches first.

Often the first noticeable effect is difficulty in hearing speech.

Some people can develop permanent tinnitus (ringing in the ears) when exposed to excessive noise.


Effects of Noise ExposureThe damage from exposure to noise occurs in the inner ear.

There are tiny hair cells in this part of the ear that are flattened out when exposed to noise.

If the exposure is short, the hair cells raise back up. If the exposure is long or extremely loud, the hair cells don’t recover and hearing ability is reduced.

When all the hair cells are damaged, complete deafness occurs.

People who say they are “used to the noise” have usually already lost some of their hearing.

Damage occurs in this part of the ear


The DOSH noise regulations require that employees have at least two types of hearing protection to choose from.

There are three types of hearing protection – ear muffs, earplugs and ear caps.

Ear muffs and earplugs provide about equal protection, ear caps somewhat less.

Types of Hearing Protection

earmuffs

earplugs

ear caps


All hearing protectors are designed to reduce the intensity (loudness) of noise to the inner ear.

They work much better than wads of cotton or bits of cloth stuffed in the ear.

The three types have advantages and disadvantages and people vary on which they prefer to use.

Types of Hearing Protectors

Cotton doesn’t work!!


Ear Plugs

Earplugs are made of foam, rubber or plastic and are either one-size-fits-all or in sizes small, medium and large.

Some are disposable, some are reusable.

They are lightweight, and require no maintenance.

They are inserted into the ear canal.

Some earplugs have little “handles” for use in dirty environments.

Foam type earplugs are one-size-fits-all and must be inserted properly into the ear.

Inserting Foam Earplugs

Roll earplug into small cylinder first, then insert in ear.

The technique for inserting earplugs is to first, roll the earplug into a small cylinder, pull the ear up and back, this opens the ear canal. Push the ear plug into the ear canal and hold there for a few seconds until it expands and fills the ear canal. This will provide the tightest fit and greatest protection.



Inserting Foam Earplugs

Earplug incorrectly inserted

Earplug correctly inserted

The left picture shows plugs only partially inserted into the ear canal – a common mistake.

They don’t have same noise reduction as earplugs or ear muffs because they don’t penetrate the ear canal and the seal is not as tight as earplugs

More expensive than earplugs and replaceable tips are not as readily available

People tend to use when dirty like the ones in the photo

Not the best choice for the logging environment

Facts About Earcaps



Some muffs are attached to hardhats or goggles and are somewhat less protective than stand alone earmuffs.

Some high-tech muffs can filter out certain frequencies or have radios inside for communication in high noise areas.

Earplugs can be worn under earmuffs for really loud noise levels

Earmuffs


Hearing Protection – when Is it required?

DOSH regulations specify when hearing protection is required depending on measured noise levels. However, a good rule of thumb is that hearing protection should be used if you have to shout at someone standing 3 feet away from you to be heard over the noise.

The two most frequent problems L&I encounters are people not wearing the hearing protection when it is required or not wearing it correctly.


Leg Protection .... Why It’s Needed

Recent data released from the Bureau of Labor Statistics:

Average chainsaw cut = 110 stitches

Medical Costs = $350 million a year (nationally)


Leg Protection is required any time an employee operates a chainsaw.

If you’re running a saw, you need to have leg protection, unless you’re working in a tree and supported by belt and spurs. It must be made of cut resistant material that covers the full length of the leg to the top of the boot. Inserts, chaps or cut resistant pants are all acceptable.


Nicks or small cuts in the outside material aren’t an issue, but once the protective material has been cut it is time to replace them. THEY’VE DONE THEIR JOB.

These chaps are unserviceable

When Do You Need To Replace Your Chaps?


When using a chain saw never adopt this position

Keep the chain saw handle clean and dry. Make sure that the handle is free from oil or fuel. Keep your chain saw properly maintained. Follow the manufacturer's suggestions for sharpening and maintaining the equipment. Never use a chain saw to cut anything other than wood!!! Slide 33: How Can You Eliminate Some Hazards in the Area? Clear loose debris from the area. Remove combustible materials. Look for broken or dead limbs in the tree to be felled. Assure that there are no power lines nearby. Make sure you have an escape route. Be aware of where others are in relation to what you are cutting. This includes people, houses, automobiles, etc.


Parts of a Chain Saw


Look for these safety features

Low kickback saw chain Hand guard Safety tip Chain brake Vibration reduction

system

Spark arrestor on gasoline models

Trigger or throttle lockout

Chain catcher Bumper spikes


How to Carry a Chain Saw

The engine should be shut off.

The chain brake should be engaged.

The scabbard is covering the guide bar to prevent cuts.

The chain saw is carried backward.

The muffler is carried away from the body to prevent burns.


CorrectStarting

1. Hold the chain saw firmly in place.

2. Remove all loose debris and make sure the guide bar is not touching anything.

3. Make sure the chain brake is engaged.

4. Grip the front handle with left hand.

5. Depress the throttle for one second with the right hand.

6. The chain should not creep forward because the brake is engaged.


How to Hold a Chain Saw1. Wrap your thumbs firmly

around the handles.

2. The right hand should be firmly on the rear handle, so that the operator can reach the throttle latch and the stop switch.

Quick Fact: Eighty percent of chain saw injuriesare to the legs and hands.


Limbing is removing branches from fallen tree.

Bucking is cutting a log into sections.

Limbing and Bucking


Felling Procedures Observe the top (widowmakers, heavy branches, wind) . Establish the lay. Check for snags. Swamp-out the base. Size up (lean, sounding, conks). Determine an escape route. Walk out the lay. Re-examine the escape route. Face the tree. Check the gunning. Warning. Backcut. Escape the stump. Analyze the operation.

Before you drop that tree think


Every tree-felling event presents hazards that should be identified before work is started. The first thing you must do after the pre-job briefing to ensure the work will be completed without injury or property damage is to inspect the tree and work area.

Check the trunk, leaders, and branches for decay, rot, cavities, splits, and tension wood that would require special handling.

Check the height of the tree, the lean, and the distribution of branches in the crown. It might be necessary to top and/or remove some branches to make the tree fall in the desired direction without striking other trees or conductors in or near the felling area. CAUTION: Felling tree into tree is very hazardous. Avoid!

Check conditions at the base of the tree. Brush, limbs, and other debris that might hinder a quick escape from the tree should be removed. Extra caution must be taken if the work surface at the base of the tree is slippery because of ice, snow, or muddy conditions.

Visually check for nails and other foreign objects that might be embedded in the trunk where felling cuts will be made.

Check for shallow or exposed roots in high-wind conditions. Special or extra rigging might be required to prevent the tree from falling in the wrong direction.

Check for dead trees and overhead dead limbs in the felling area that could break and fall if struck by the tree being felled.

Check for vines that could interfere with normal tree felling. Check for tree stumps, large rocks, and uneven terrain that might cause

the tree to roll or bounce unexpectedly when it strikes the ground.


Felling 101: Types of Cuts


Overhead hazards?

Escape Route?

Bucking on downhill side?


Escape Route?

Saw motor above

shoulders?

Tripping hazards; work

area not cleared?


Overhead hazards?

Blocked escape route?

Area not cleared?

Limbing downhill from log?

Improper spring pole technique?

In path of spring pole?


Slide 4

Slide 5

Overhead hazards? Area not

cleared?


Unstable footing?

Bar may not be

visible?

Tripping hazard?


Bucking on downhill side

of log?

Tripping hazard, area not cleared?

Escape route not cleared?

PPE, no hardhat and

gloves?

P bar Y Safety Consultants Alberta CanadaSlide 7

Slide 8

Overhead hazards?

Area not cleared?

Escape route not cleared?


Risk of barberchair? People within

2-1/2 tree lengths?

No undercut?

Inattention?


Saw motor above

shoulders?

Area not cleared?

Hearing protection?

Overhead hazards likely?


Tip / kickback?


Tip / kickback?

Bar may not be visible?

Area not cleared?


Area not cleared?

Overhead hazards?

Powerhead may be getting

higher than shoulders?


Health hazards

of cigarette smoke?

Smoking within 50 ft. of fueling

area?


Overhead hazards?

No clear escape route?

Area not cleared?


Tip / kickback potential?

Saw motor above

shoulders?

Overhead hazards?

Area not cleared/escape

routes?


Butt will most likely fly up when

bole lands on log?

Neither person is

watching for overhead hazards?

Employee in danger zone, i.e., kickback

path?

Poor control of running

saw? No wedges?

Possible dutchman?


Possible overhead hazards?

No escape routes?

Area not cleared?

Saw tip not visible?


People within 2-1/2 tree lengths?

Equipment within 2-1/2 tree lengths?

Inattention?

Saw motors prevent the

effective communication

of shouts?


Saw motors prevent the

effective communication

of shouts?

Inattention?

People within 2-1/2 tree lengths?


Bucking downhill?



Make a Correct Cut A Felling Notch does

not exceed 20 percent of the tree’s diameter at breast height. This cut is made first.

The Hinge is the 10 percent that is left uncut for the operator’s safety.

The Felling Cut is made last. It occurs on the opposite side of the tree from the felling notch, but it does not go all the way through the tree. The notch and the cut are staggered, so they don’t meet.


Types of Injuries

Kickback Vibration Syndrome Widowmaker Entanglement Stump Jump

Setback Crown Shatter Barber Chair Moving Tree Springpole

Quick Fact: Kickback is the single greatestcause of injury to chain saw users.


What is Kickback? Kickback is caused

by a spinning chain coming in contact with resistance.

It causes the chain saw to “kick back” toward your face.

It is very common and can cause serious injury.


NEVER cut with the tip of the chain saw! Lock your front elbow. Be careful not to cut through nails or

knots in the wood. Stand to the side. Use a low kickback chain. Use a chain brake.

How can Kickback be Prevented?


Vibration syndrome causes frequent users of chain saws to get white knuckles and a loss of feeling in their fingers from the vibrations of the chain saw.

It is not very common presently, due to better working conditions and safer chain saws.

Vibration Syndrome


Widowmaker

Widowmaker is caused by loose branches falling from the tree due to vibrations from the chain saw.


ALWAYS WEAR A HARDHAT!!!!

Remember that a branch falling on you from less than 2 inches away can have enough force to kill you.

You can prevent a widowmaker injury


Entanglement Trees that are being

cut down may sometimes drag or snap other trees.

Free the branches of the tree you are cutting before starting to cut to prevent this from occurring.


Stump Jump

This is caused by the hinge being cut or breaking when the tree is falling.

The tree can jump or roll, or hit other trees in any direction.


1. Plan an escape route to prevent injuries due to stump jump.

2. When the tree begins to move, turn

off the chain saw and escape.

Have an Escape Plan…and Use it!


What Is Setback?

Sometimes a tree may tilt backward and clamp onto the bar of the saw.

If the hinge breaks, then the tree can fall backward.

You can use wedges to make sure the tree will fall over in the right direction.

You can tie a cable or rope in the top of the tree and apply steady pressure.


This occurs when the crown of the tree that has been felled or a nearby tree snaps or shatters.

This causes hurling branches and can cause serious injury or death.

Notice three ways to be struck.

Crown Shatter


Barber Chair

When the backcut has been made, if the tree leans too far, the butt of the tree can kick backward.

This happens much faster than a normal reaction time.

Never stand in back of the tree as you are cutting.

Seek professional help.


Moving Tree

A rolling or moving tree can catch your leg or crush you.

This can occur when limbs or restraints are removed.

Prevent this by staying uphill from a tree on a slope.


A tree can become arched as it is felled or if another tree falls on it. When cut, it can violently strike out at anything in its path.

Always stay inside the “bow” of a springpole.

Springpole


Always plan an escape route that is a path at a 45-degree angle away from the line of the tree’s fall.

Escaping From Danger


Preventing Injuries Personal protective

equipment (PPE) MUST be worn at all times.

This can greatly reduce injuries and prevent death from chain saw injuries.

Keep both hands on the chain saw handles.


Keep the chain saw handle clean and dry.

Make sure that the handle is free from oil or fuel.

Keep your chain saw properly maintained.

Follow the manufacturer’s suggestions for sharpening and maintaining the equipment.

Never use a chain saw to cut anything other than wood!!!

Safety Tips


How Can You Eliminate Some Hazards in the Area?

Clear loose debris from the area.

Remove combustible materials.

Look for broken or dead limbs in the tree to be felled.

Assure that there are no power lines nearby.

Make sure you have an escape route.

Be aware of where others are in relation to what you are cutting. This includes people, houses, automobiles, etc.


How safe is my surroundings

Any time that a situation requires more skills than you have.

If a tree has a larger diameter than the length of the guide bar.

If the tree is dead, hollow, split, or rotten.

If there isn't enough room to safely fell the tree or if there is no clear escape route.

If there are any other obstacles to the tree


Keep a thank god kit

Field Maintenance Tool Kit Scrench—A combination screwdriver and

wrench designed for chain saw maintenance Small screwdriver—For carburetor

adjustments Plastic wedges Round file—Use the appropriate diameter Flat mill bastard file—For filing the rakers Grease—For lubricating the bearing and

sprocket tip guide bars Star wrench—For various screws and bolts on

your saw Extra spark plug—Replace if pitted or fouled Extra starter cord—Carry approximate length

needed Extra chain—Use appropriate size, drivers,

and gauge of chain Extra parts—Needle cage bearing, washer, E-

clips, sprocket, bar nuts Air filter—Replace when badly soiled


Always reduce the friction

Guide Bar and Chain Lubrication Be sure there is bar oil in the oil reservoir. The oil reservoir should be

filled at every refueling. Bar oil and fuel should be burned at approximately the same rate.

If there is a large amount of oil left in reservoir, oil slots may be plugged or adjusted too lean. Check and clean the engine oil slots and oiling grooves in the guide bar.

To check for proper bar and chain oiling, hold the bar tip a few feet away from a piece of wood or log and observe the amount of oil that is thrown off.

Daily Saw Maintenance Check the throttle trigger for smooth operation. Be sure the trigger

cannot be pulled until the throttle trigger lockout is depressed. Clean the chain brake, and check that it engages and disengages

properly. Clean or replace the air filter as necessary. Check for damage and

holes.


No Fire Please

Fueling Shut off the saw, and allow it to cool for a few minutes before fueling. Clear an area on the ground for the saw to be positioned accordingly. Wipe dirt and wood chips off of the fuel tank cap and surrounding

areas. Slowly loosen the cap, allowing any built-up pressure to escape. Use an approved safety fuel container with a funnel or spout to help

avoid spillage. After fueling, replace the fuel cap, making sure the threads are not

crossed and the cap is placed on securely.

While the saw is cool and idle for fueling, remember these few maintenance points.

Always fill the chain oil reservoir. Wipe off the reservoir cap to prevent contamination.

Always check chain tension. Always clean the air filter.


For Gods sakes how many times have you said this

Safety Watch-Outs NEVER work alone. Make sure that all crew members have the appropriate personal

protective equipment for their assignment. Ensure that all gear and equipment is operationally safe and

functional. Establish a safe work plan. Supervise and communicate to crew members. Utilize ropes, cables, and pulleys at every opportunity. Establish escape routes. Always use spotters. Be mindful of the danger zone. Monitor everyone (including yourself) for fatigue. Communicate, communicate, communicate!


Always Remember to Be Careful!Pay attention to your surroundings, wear the correct clothing, and call a professional when you are unsure of your ability to perform the task safely. So are you ready to take my chainsaw course now?

Leadership & Management

Chainsaw safety you need to buck up and