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HUMANE HANDLING OF FEARFUL DOGS

HSUS Animal Care Expo Nashville, Tennessee

May 8-11, 2013

INSTRUCTOR Mark R. Johnson DVM Global Wildlife Resources, Inc. Bozeman, Montana Email: mjohnson@wildliferesources.org Website: http://WildlifeResources.org Website Y Pole Page Training Library GWR Products Page Feral Dog Blog: http://feraldog.wordpress.com YouTube Channel: GWRFeralDogs

When facing a fearful or fear aggressive dog, it is often peoples’ nature or habit to react with a brute physical force, with a “them-against-us” attitude, and we end up fighting and forcing the dog to do our bidding. Of course the dog will likely struggle or fight back. However, most dogs do not want a struggle or even a conflict. We can take away most of the struggling by truly looking at the dog and looking at ourselves then use our best skills and attitudes along with new tools and techniques. The results are more humane, successful, safe, and professional.

WORKSHOP OBJECTIVES 1. Describe a variety of tools and techniques for catching dogs by hand in a safe, humane,

and efficient manner. 2. Learn compassionate physical restraint including: scruff, lateral restraint, leash muzzle

wrap, and hobbles without adding energy to any struggle. 3. Recognize how you, the handler, is raising or lowering the tension of the dog and the

situation. 4. Explore how to create a calm conscious manner to minimize the energy of conflict even

with very uncooperative dogs. 5. Become familiar with the Y pole-what it is, how it works, and how to properly use it. 6. Discuss some basic netting equipment and techniques. 7. Learn ways of catching dogs in large enclosures. DO NOT ENTER INTO ANY SITUATION UNLESS YOU FEEL IT IS SAFE TO DO SO. Identify situations with fearful dogs What situations are we preparing for?

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Why strive to handle fearful dogs in a compassionate way? 1. The dogs are easier to handle and will fight you less. 2. The dog handling will be easier, safer, and less stressful. 3. The dogs will give back your compassion so your job is more enjoyable. 4. It will improve the quality of the work environment. 5. Bringing compassion into the workplace strengthens the organization. 6. It builds positive community relationships. 7. For ACOS, compassionate handling teaches the dogs that are watching to feel safer. UNDERSTANDING THE DOG A. Communication Signals: What is the dog telling us? Communication signals are complex. Look at the entire dog. 1. Warning or Threatening Signals What are warning or threatening signals from a dog? 2. Understanding Aggression What types of aggression are there? 3. Body Language: Defensive Aggressive Active Aggressive 4. Signs of Nervousness What are the signals telling you the dog is nervous?

5. Signs of Friendship/Cooperation Playbow B. The Nature of Dog 1. Dogs want to resolve conflict. In a conflict – they only wish to escape or protect themselves Use calming signals to reassure the animal and minimize your aggressive nature. 2. Dogs are a domesticated and deeply connected to us. Most dogs will give us an “opening”. So we can work with their personality and behavior. They also know our intentions or body language. 3. Dogs have a pack mentality, want to know their status, and have a reflex to comply. The naturally submissive nature of dog, when it is present, is what allows us to work effectively with the Y pole. 4. The dog can be physically restrained. This can help us with physical exams and help us move the animal safely.

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C. What is an Alpha Dog? The alpha dog is a teacher, not a bad dog. Let him teach you how to relax and do not take his actions personally. THE ANIMAL HANDLER A. Human Safety Is Highest Priority Dog bites are not a badge of honor. B. Be more than just physical. C. Self Awareness The best thing in handling fearful dogs is to look at ourselves first as we work. What does the dog see when he is looking at you? Continually observe yourself. Adjust your body language. Choose to stay calm & relaxed. It will calm and relax the dog. The crazier the situation gets, the calmer you should be. D. Work with very small moves. Dogs are very sensitive. Everything is fast and big to a fearful dog. Work at the dog’s pace, not yours. Do not directly face a fearful dog. E. Dominance Is Not A Bad Thing. There are good kinds of dominance. Call it guidance or leadership. Use compassionate dominance to guide the dogs. F. Time Is A Tool. Even if you are in a rush, at least connect with the animal and be present. Use time as deliberately as you use a tool. CONNECTING WITH THE ANIMAL - Dog and Handler A. Keep your attention on the animal at all times – stay connected B. Feel what kind of personality the dog has – and work with it Do not treat all dogs the same way. C. Practice “Give and Take” You do not (should not) have to force the animal to submit immediately. Give the animal time to think and make choices. Move a step at a time, pause, and see how the dog responds. Each of your actions will either tense or relax the dog. Study how you move.

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D. Use Calming Signals Calming signal help catching and handling dogs. These are signals used by dogs to calm other dogs (or people) or to try to resolve a tense situation. 1. Slow down 2. Move in waves or steps. Stop, relax, pause. Look to see if the dog responds, then move again. 3. Avoid face on contact Angle your body Angle your head – relax and occasionally look away without dropping your guard 4. Sniff or yawn to relax the situation Convey disinterest even though you are focused to catch or handle the dog E. Understand that your energy affects the animal Our calmness will help calm the animal. Our kindness will help the animal feel more safe. F. Minimize The Energy of Conflict Who is creating the fight? The dog is only trying to protect itself or escape. Feel your intentions and listen to your stories and thoughts. Are you determined to win? And strive not to let the energy escalate. Move in steps and lower the energy as you pause. PHYSICAL RESTRAINT AND HANDLING EQUIPMENT Emphasize calm and compassionate physical control rather than forceful action. When the animal is struggling & your hands are tense, your mind & heart should be relaxed. A. Scruffing Three steps: 1. Ear in the notch of the thumb. Thumbs will be parallel. 2. Fingers together and point to the corner of the mouth. Be careful. 3. Squeeze and make them grin. Only use as much strength as you need to accomplish your goal. Option: One handed scruff, add leash muzzle wrap, then add towel. B. Lateral restraint Dog on his side. Forearm over the first neck bone. Hold the front lower leg above the elbow. Cover the head with a towel. C. Hobbling Not commonly used. Valuable for moving an uncooperative dog with headcover. Only use with headcovers/towel.

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D. Headcover/Towel Headcovers & towels reduce animal stress. And they increase handler safety. Quickmuzzle (Wolf Quickmuzzle: Four Flags Over Aspen; http://www.fourflags.com/)

Use towels with all kinds of handling – physical restraint, netting, Y pole, carrying dog. Note: People are most often bit by the small, friendly looking dogs they trust. Consider a leash muzzle wrap and towel for when carrying dogs, unless they get more upset. The Y POLE A. What is a Y pole?

Read HSUS Y Pole article: One Cool Tool. Aluminum Y-shaped pole varying in size to match the dogs. Padded tines so teeth cannot touch metal. B. What is its Purpose? It is a safe extension of our hand to convey compassion and request. A safer way to reach in to work with the dog. Can be used to guide a dog into a crate or down the hall. Can be used with a net to create faster and quieter restraint. Can be used before a syringe pole for the most difficult dogs. C. The Y Pole Will Not Work with All Dogs

Free ranging dogs need to be cornered. Alpha dogs will only fight it. Dogs previously beaten with a stick may never trust it and try to flee. Flighty dogs with closeness issues. The more you practice, the more dogs will comply. D. Contrast with Catch Pole Avoids the horrible struggles It can only pin. Only works if the animal is in a corner or room or pen. Usually requires a second or third person. Conveys a more compassionate relationship and message. Blends with the animal. Requires us to be less forceful. We offer a request rather than a command. E. How/Why Does It Work? The dog is a pack animal. It grows up with a submissive reflex to survive. The Y pole utilizes this behavior. The Y pole is 75% psychological and 25% physical. It is not used physically like a stick to pin the animal. It should never be demeaning or punitive. Most dogs are MORE friendly after being properly handled with the Y pole. F. Setting Up The Situation A confined location in a corner or kennel. A cooperative dog – willing to stand and be greeted Several calm people who understand how to use the Y pole psychologically.

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G. Greeting The Dog Good posture is less threatening. Use calming signals. Tines up and down below eye level. Move in slow in steps. Pause and relax. Sense when you are too slow. Stop at times if the animal is panicking and settle. Make a friend with the Y pole. Offer the tine to the corner of the mouth. Then pet the base of the ear. Then pet the neck. Rest the Y pole over the neck. Never look away. Cover the head. Second Y pole on hip? H. Things You Can Do with the Y Pole Physical restraint with scruff, muzzle wrap and towel to move animal Lift legs and wait until the dog tires and settles to put the dog on its side. Physical exam or vaccinations Chemical immobilization. I. What Not to do Don’t use the Y pole in a negative way. Don’t look away when the Y pole is on the animal and people are working

NETS A. Construction - wide hoop and 6 feet deep. Sources: Salmon nets – Beckman and Frabill with coated netting B. Techniques - catch and twist net with Y pole assistant Along wall or fence – invite them to run past you, then change your mind. Sleeping dog – settle net over dog with net away from you. Tug net toward you. Carry dog on top twisted in net and covered with towel. C. Accessories Don’t use nets by themselves. Add Y pole and towel.

CATCH POLE A valuable took for ACOs handling free-ranging dogs. A very last choice for shelter workers. Offer the Y pole first. The crazier the animal gets, the calmer you should be. Use the catch pole like a Y pole. A. Proper construction – swivel head B. Proper technique Understand that the message of the snare around the dog’s neck is working against you to work compassionately with the dog. Walk the dog in front of you. Calm and relaxed. Help the animal find a calm place. Reward the animal by decreasing pull or pressure. C. Things not to do – Do not pull, do not lift. Use for short periods and short distances. Don’t use it when there are better ways.

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VARI-KENNELS AND CRATES Make the crate inviting – cover if necessary; door hinge away from the wall. Thread long lead through crate. Guide dog into crate with the Y pole – moving the animal along the wall. Your angle to the dog and wall is key. Move slow. Remember to move in waves – pressure, pause, pressure, pause. Another person takes in the lead slack without pulling on the dog. Working a fearful dog in a large area Move in a line with calmness and move in waves: Pause and relax. Then move again. Don’t rush the dog. Give him time to think. A net and Y pole can be at the end near a wall. Add a 25 ft long burlap barrier. IMPORTANT!: Debrief after every difficult dog handling Learn from every animal and every colleague REFERENCES 1. ASPCA Pro Webinars “Leash Skills and Body Language” http://www.aspcapro.org/defensive-dog-handling-leash-skills-bo.php “Canine Communication: Understanding Canine Body Language” http://www.aspcapro.org/canine-communication-understanding-canin.php “The Effect of Human Body Language on Dog Behavior” http://www.aspcapro.org/human-body-language-and-its-effects-on-d.php 2. “Calming Signals – What Your Dog Tells You”. Video by Turid Rugaas http://www.canis.no/rugaas/ 3. Dog Language: An Encyclopedia of Canine Behaviour. Roger Abrantes. Wakan Tanka Publishers. 1997 4. Dog Behaviour, Evolution, and Cognition. Adam Miklosi. Oxford University Press. 2008 5. “One Cool Tool – An expert explains how to use the Y pole, a tool for working with fearful dogs.” By Mark R. Johnson DVM. Animal Sheltering Magazine Sept/Oct 2010. Pp. 37-41. 6. “Control Issues” by James Hettinger. Animal Sheltering Magazine Jan/Feb 2013. Pp. 16-17. WORKSHOP HANDOUTS 1. The “Y” Pole: One Cool Tool. Animal Sheltering Magazine Sept/Oct 2010. 2. Making a Y Pole 3. Control Issues. Animal Sheltering Magazine Jan/Feb 2013. 4. Four Flags Over Aspen Quick Muzzle Handout

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One of your animal control officers has

brought in a dog found roaming the streets.

The dog has a collar, and through her mat-

ted hair you can see an ID tag. But no mat-

ter how calmly you approach the dog, she is

so fearful you cannot safely touch her. The

dog becomes defensively aggressive, and you

have to back off.

You need to handle this dog to provide

the best care and to read her tag, but the

dog refuses to cooperate.

What are your options?

The Traditional Catch PoleThe common option for working with

uncooperative dogs is the catch pole (also

known as the control pole or the snare pole).

Every shelter in North America has one or

knows what it is. It is the tool most ACOs and

shelter staff resort to when a dog refuses to

be handled.

The catch pole is a valuable and funda-

mental tool for the ACO, allowing an officer

to work safely with potentially dangerous

dogs and to catch a dog who may not be

captured with a leash. With the catch pole,

a properly trained ACO can catch a dog out

in the open so that the animal does not have

to be cornered. This is one of its most impor-

tant assets. And when necessary, the catch

pole also allows an ACO to work by himself,

because it controls a dog in every direction

she might try to move.

Unfortunately, the catch pole is not very

forgiving, because if things go wrong and

the dog vigorously fights the snare pole, she

can become seriously injured and may even

be killed. And it is not forgiving because,

in effect, the snare pole motivates a dog to

fight to protect herself, since a loop around

the neck is very threatening and can easily

inspire a dog’s fear.

In addition, the control that the catch

pole provides allows significant potential for

abuse. Having problems with a dog? Grab

the catch pole. Is the dog fighting hard? Fight

back harder. If a shelter worker or ACO is not

extremely attentive to the amount of force he

uses, this tool can actually escalate the en-

ergy and aggravate the fight between human

and dog. Without a measured, deliberate ap-

proach, the catch pole can influence the han-

dler to be sloppy or overly aggressive.

For this reason, the catch pole should be

used only as a last resort. As often as pos-

sible, shelter staff and ACOs should seek hu-

mane alternatives.

Used correctly, the Y pole can be one

of these.

What Is a y Pole?I learned about the Y pole working with

captive-wolf facilities. It is an effective and

One Cool ToolAn expert explains how to use the y pole, a tool for working with fearful dogs

BY mark r. Johnson, d.V.m.

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humane tool for handling captive wolves

without chemical immobilization.

Years ago, managers of captive-wolf

programs noticed how quietly most wolves

would submit to the calm use of the Y pole.

It was not only amazingly calming and ef-

fective, it also allowed people to conduct

physical exams, vaccinations, and minor

treatments without fighting or drugging the

animals. I see the same potential for the Y

pole in shelters, and teach those who handle

dogs about the Y pole, because I believe it

embodies a compassionate approach to

working with fractious canids in a calm, re-

spectful manner.

Having used it effectively with hundreds

of dogs, I believe that every professional

working with dogs should know about the Y

pole. Shelter workers, animal control officers,

disaster responders, those rescuing dogs from

puppy mills and hoarding cases, and trap/

neuter/release programs may all benefit from

knowing how to use this simple tool.

The Y pole is simply a “Y”-shaped metal

pole with a long handle—typically 4 and a

half feet long, with 6-inch tines forming the

Y. But it can be made to any size. The tines

are heavily padded with rubber so, should

a dog bite it, his teeth will never touch the

metal.

How Does It Work?The Y pole is not a pin stick—it is not used

to physically force the animal down. Rather,

it is an extension of the human hand that can

be used to safely and compassionately enter

the animal’s personal space, touch her, and

convince her to relax. Used properly—with

dominance and compassion—the Y pole’s

control is 75 percent psychological and only

25 percent physical. An officer’s calmness and

smooth movements will allow him to touch

the dog while communicating to her that it is

safe to submit.

One of the main reasons the Y pole works

on dogs is because of their pack mentality. In

the wild, dogs and other canids quickly learn

to submit to more dominant animals in the

pack. The Y pole placed across the dog’s neck

imitates the same pressure he could get from

the jaws of dominant dogs.

When the Y pole is used properly, there

is nothing punitive or demeaning for the dog.

With this compassionate extension of the

rub the Y pole on the dog’s cheek to greet her. this will calm the dog, and let her know that the Y pole will not hurt her.

place the Y pole on the dog’s neck without forcing her to the wall or ground. the contact on her neck echoes the way wild dogs communicate.

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38 AnimAl Sheltering september/october 2010 ANIMALSHELTERING.ORG

sive to the dog’s behavior and personality.

Instead of putting steady pressure on the

dog as you move her and continuing that

way, move in waves. Take a few steps, then

stop and settle. Take another few steps,

then stop and settle. With most dogs, you

can do this in a way that calms the animal

and lowers everyone’s energy. (For an ex-

ample, watch the video “Using Dominance

to Humanely Catch a Wolf” on Dr. Mark’s

Feral Dog Blog.)

Approaching the DogIt is best if you have three people on hand,

though two can be effective. Two people

carry Y poles, and one carries a towel. The

lead person will first greet the animal and will

eventually use the pole on the neck. This is all

about guiding the animal while helping her

feel safe to cooperate. If you are calm and re-

laxed, it will help calm the dog.

If the dog is a candidate for the Y pole,

she will eventually settle into a corner. She

may be standing or lying down, but she

will not be trying to flee with your every

movement.

Hold the Y pole so the padded tines are

directly up and down. Keep the fork at the

dog’s eye level or slightly lower, and slowly

hand, an interaction can actually build more

trust and tolerance between the dog and her

handler.

Many people learning about the Y pole

have said that, in order to successfully use

it, they would have to redefine their con-

cepts, change habits, and interact with

each dog in a whole new way. The Y pole

requires us to invite the dog to participate

in the handling rather than continue our

usual habit of forcing ourselves on the dog

to catch her.

Other people are enthusiastic about the

tool for the same reasons, and have told me

that their desire to work with fearful dogs

with calmness, compassion, and respect is

embodied in the Y pole because it requires

them to be steadily mindful of being compas-

sionate and helping the dog feel safe.

How to Use a y Pole Setting Up the SituationTo successfully handle a dog with a Y pole,

the dog must be contained. She can be in

a large pen or room, or in a small kennel.

If the animal is in a large pen, you must re-

duce the space available to her; a “wall”

of calm people can slowly move a dog

into a corner. But be sensitive and respon-

place a towel over the dog’s head without moving too fast and scaring her.

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[101]

move toward the dog, a few steps at a

time, then stop and settle. Each time, move

a few steps, then settle and allow the dog

to recognize that she’s still safe as you move

closer. This—moving into the animal and

moving with the animal at the same time,

without scaring her—is the most difficult

part to learn.

As you move, do not focus on catching or

controlling the dog. Focus on greeting the ani-

mal with kindness so she feels safe. Remember:

Think of the Y pole as a compassionate exten-

sion of your hand; let the animal know that the

Y pole is not a threat. Take your time.

Engaging the DogMove the pole toward the corner of the dog’s

mouth and let her bite the Y pole if she wants

to. Don’t react—when she bites, do not pull

back with the pole. That will only encourage

her to bite more and will make her feel less

safe. Let her chew on it until she gets bored.

As she settles, consider rubbing the tip of one

fork below her ear and later on the neck, like

petting. Let her relax and accept the situation.

Once she settles or submits, pet her a

few more times with the Y pole, then gen-

tly slide the pole across her neck, pause,

and relax. At this time, consider covering

her head with the towel, or use the sec-

ond Y pole on her hip and then apply the

towel. Covering the eyes is important be-

cause it reduces the dog’s stress and in-

creases your safety.

Be aware of the vertical angle of your

handle. If your handle is too high, the dog

might be able to slip under the Y pole. If it

is too low, there may be an opening above

the Y pole.

With a Y pole in place and a towel on

the head, the animal can be handled in

many ways. You can examine a surgical

s i t e , conduc t a phy s i c a l e xam, g i ve

vaccinations and minor treatments, or

administer chemical capture drugs with a

hand syringe or pole syringe. You can also

physically restrain her with a head-cover and

hobbles (a belt-like strap used to safely and

humanely restrain a dog while she’s being

carried), so she can be moved to another

location. By placing the Y pole in front of

you and guiding the dog in a soft way, you

can also use it to guide her into a transport

crate or into another kennel, if there is an

open path to it.

What Not to Do With the y Polen Don’t poke the animal, or use it in a way

that decreases her sense of trust and

safety.

nDon’t approach the dog with two Y poles

at once. That is like two people talking in

each of your ears. The person using the Y

pole on the hips should be a little behind

the person using the pole on the neck. The

neck person is in charge.nDon’t be tense—the dog can feel your ten-

sion and will be more tense. Teach yourself

to relax. Take a slow breath, and consciously

relax your shoulders.

What the y Pole Cannot DonThe Y pole cannot catch free-ranging

dogs. The dog must be confined—to

a room, to a large pen. It will work in

most restricted spaces—but there must

be some degree of confinement in order

for the psychological restraint to be

effective.nThe Y pole is not effective with every dog.

Some dogs may be too skittish and leap

away any time the Y pole is moved in their

direction. Some “alpha dogs” may refuse to

submit. If an alpha dog must be handled,

then the Y pole can be used to restrain

or distract the dog long enough to give

anesthetics with a syringe pole.

But some of what the Y pole cannot

do is good: You cannot harm dogs the

way that you can with a catch pole. If a

problem occurs, you simply back away and

start again.

The Y pole also cannot be used in a

fast way or at the pace of the handler. The

Y pole must be used at the dog’s pace. This

is a good thing, because instead of forcing

a dog to cooperate, we are asking the dog

to cooperate. It’s more respectful, more

compassionate, and more humane.

Prac t ice with f r iendly dogs to get

a feel ing for how to connect with the

animals and successful ly interac t with

them. Although it is very difficult using

the Y pole with a goofy, friendly dog who

only wants to play, it is great practice, and

when properly used, it will not be stressful

for the dog.

Animal shelters, spay/neuter programs,

and groups responding to disasters and

hoard ing cases of ten have to handle

difficult dogs who cannot be safely caught

with bare hands. Too often these situations

turn into a fight, with animals injured and

handlers bitten. The ideal solution is to

a towel on the dog’s head can comfort her, as well as make things safer for the handler.

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40 AnimAl Sheltering september/october 2010 ANIMALSHELTERING.ORG

handle the dog in a calm, respectful manner

that is effective, humane, and safe for both

people and the dog. Give the dog a chance

to cooperate. Reach for the Y pole, calm

yourself, and enjoy the improved interactions

that are possible.

nGo to the Y Pole Page on the

webs i te for Global Wi ld l i fe

Resources Inc. at wildliferesources.org/the-y-pole/.

nRead articles about the Y pole

and watch i t be ing used in

the video “Using Dominance

to Humanely Catch a Wolf”

on Johnson’s Feral Dog Blog,

feraldog.wordpress.com. (Click

on the video category for the

latter.) nTo purchase a Y po le, v i s i t

Tomahawk Live Trap at livetrap.com; Heart of the Earth Animal

Equipment at animal - t raps .com ; Animal Care Equipment

Services at animal-care.com ;

or Global Wildlife Resources at

wildliferesources.org/.

Resources

Mark Johnson , D .V.M., i s a w i l d l i f e veter inar ian and executive direc tor of Global Wildlife Resources Inc., a nonprofit organization specializing in humane animal capture and handling. In the past 10 years, he has directed his expertise toward improving the lives of people and dogs, and has handled more than 2,000 feral dogs throughout the world, including the Caribbean, India, and tribal lands, and during three rescue operations after Hurricane Katrina. He is the author of the Feral Dog Blog.

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HOW TO MAKE A Y POLE

The Y pole is an extremely useful tool when working with intractable dogs. For zoos, this tool is also great to humanely handle or drug wolves and coyotes. It is used as a safe extension of your hand to teach the dog or wolf that it is safe to submit and allow the Y pole to be placed across its neck. From that point you cover the head and can then conduct physical exams, collect blood, or administer anesthetics. For this to work, the handler must convey dominance with compassion and work in a calm and kind manner.

Every animal shelter should have a Y pole for handling fractious dogs in a calm way. In many shelter situations, the Y pole replaces the use of a snare pole which results in a much better outcome. Because the Y pole can restrain a dog without the risks and stresses associated with a snare pole, it allows the handler to develop a quieter, more respectful relationship with the animal.

How can I make a Y pole?To build a Y pole, find a welder who works with aluminum, so the Y pole will be both light and strong. The handle is typically about 4.5 feet (1.37 meters) long. Weld 6 inch (15cm) tines to the handle in the shape of a “Y” so the tines form a 70-80 degree angle. This is a good size for handling most dogs. Note that if the tines are too long, the dog’s head will slip out, so it is better to have shorter tines. Y poles can be made in different lengths and shapes to address a variety of animals and situations.

For the first layer, thoroughly cover both tines with a rugged material to prevent the dog’s teeth from touching the metal. This can be either automotive heater hose or many layers of bicycle inner tubing. Reinforce this first layer with duct tape then add the second layer using closed-cell foam. (Closed-cell foam does not soak up water.) The easiest foam to work with in the U.S. is pipe

insulation shaped like a long tube. Then add many, many layers of duct tape as tight as possible. Don’t forget to cover the ends well. There should be no place where you can feel the metal of the tines. The padding and tape will protect the animal’s teeth when they bite on the pole.

Y poles can also be purchased eitherfrom Heart of the Earth Animal Equipment

or from Global Wildlife Resources.

For more information on the Y pole and how to use it, visit our Y Pole webpage, our Feral Dog Blog, and our YouTube Channel: GWRFeralDog

1

Control poles have sparked debate for decades.

Dave Pauli, an HSUS senior director for wildlife response, calls control or catch poles “the most misused animal handling tool in the industry.”

When Pauli visits shelters, he asks the ACOs to produce their catch poles, then holds them up in the air to inspect them. If they’re straight and have a few tooth marks in them, “they’re being used properly,” he says. “But most catch poles in the United States have a slight arc, because they’re using them as a lift-ing tool,” often to hoist a dog—or, worse, a cat or a wild animal—into their truck.

Using a catch pole that way essentially turns it into a noose, and the animals trapped within it typically react accord-ingly. The practice, which may be driven by a lack of officer training, has been a source of concern and even cruelty charges in some communities.

Other veteran field officers agree that control poles have the potentia l to be both humane animal handling tools and dangerous weapons.

“They’re an excellent tool, as long as you’re not dragging an animal, [or] you’re not using that tool as a pickup device,” says Rowdy Shaw, senior field responder for The HSUS’s Animal Rescue Team.

A control pole can be used to block an onrushing aggressive dog from biting, Shaw says, and it also gives the dog a moment to figure out the situation and calm down. Animals are often as scared as anyone else in-

volved in the encoun-ter, he adds.

Control poles have developed a bad image because of highly pub-l icized cases where workers misused them to s t ra ng le or beat animals, notes Mark Kumpf, director of the Montgomery County Animal Res ource Cen ter in Dayton, Ohio. But he says that image is a bad rap: At most agencies, control poles are used appropriately by trained, com-passionate professionals.

“We don’t hear about the thousands of cases where this piece of essentia l equipment is used properly, humanely, safely, and effectively,” Kumpf says.

Training—available through classes, videos, handouts, and practical demon-strations—is key to promoting the proper use of control poles, Kumpf says. Lack of training is a problem at some agencies, he adds, because officers don’t have a role

model to demonstrate the equipment.

“If you don’t train people properly, you don’t educate them on how and how not to use a piece of equip-ment, then essentially w h a t e v e r o u t c o m e you get is what you’ve signed up for,” Kumpf says. “… You just don’t put a piece of equip-ment i n someone’s hand and say, ‘Go out and use this.’”

Shaw asserts that many officers don’t get enough training. “A lot of people are shown a tool, and sort of told how to use it, and then just put in a spot to use it, and that’s never a good way to go.”

Kumpf shakes his head in disbelief at reports of ACOs using control poles to lift dogs into cages. “Come on, folks: Work smarter, not harder,” he says. “It’s a tool, and any tool that’s used improperly can cause a host of problems, the least of which is damage to your image, and the most of which could be the unfortunate demise of an animal.”

Polar oppositesAlong with ensuring that their officers learn to use a control pole properly, agen-cies should also be aware of other options out there. As the animal control f ield evolves, its equipment evolves with it.

One proponent of an alternative tool—the Y pole—is Mark Johnson. As a veteran wildlife veterinarian who holds a black belt in the Japanese martial art aikido, Johnson brings a unique perspective to handling fearful dogs.

Animal handling situations are “not a fight for someone to win or lose,” he says. He peppers his speech with talk about

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Y poles are a less-threatening alternative for maneuvering dogs within a kennel, such as this fearful dog at Heart of the Valley Animal Shelter in Bozeman, Mont. The handler keeps the tines vertical, with the top tine below the eyes, and the dog can bite it if he wants.

Control poles used properly (as shown here by ACO Michael Lindsey) are a safe and humane way to handle fearful dogs, but misuse can harm animals and draw negative attention to an agency.

16 AnimAl Sheltering january | february 2013 ANIMALSHELTERING.ORG

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connecting to the animal, “minimiz-ing the energy of conf lict,” understand-ing how your energy affects the animal, “compassionate dominance,” and remov-ing the us-vs.-them mentality.

“He did an outstanding job of interact-ing with the employees here,” says James Rogers, administrator of the Memphis Animal Shelter (MAS) in Tennessee, where Johnson presented a training session in May. “He’s a very down-to-earth, get-it-done type of person” who effectively dem-onstrated his methodology and how it can work in shelters, Rogers adds.

MAS drew criticism earlier in 2012 when a video surfaced showing shelter staff lifting and dragging animals with catch poles. Following Johnson’s training, MAS has limited its use of catch poles in the shelter to extremely vicious dogs, opt-ing instead to primarily use the Y pole.

Johnson says the concepts he teaches

are instinctive for any good ACO, and he’s found success taking his message to animal handlers far and wide. He says he’s on a mission: He wants to make shel-ters throughout North America aware of the Y pole, which he contends can replace the traditional catch pole in virtually all shelter situations.

Catch poles are convenient, Johnson says, noting that they can be used by one person to control a dog in an open area. But their big drawback, he explains, is that placing a loop around an animal’s neck can be life-threatening for the animal. Y poles, in contrast, create a relationship with the dog that’s based on trust and co-operation, Johnson asserts.

Typically made of metal and measuring about 4.5 feet—with 6-inch forks covered in rubber, foam, and tape—the Y-shaped poles serve as an extension of the human hand, he says. “You extend your ‘hand’

with kindness, using all of the skills an ACO has for moving around a dog.”

The Y pole is not a physical pin stick, Johnson adds, and it won’t work to cap-ture, say, a dog roaming free in a parking lot; the animal has to be cornered in some way. He first encountered Y poles while working with captive wolves, and found they can also be perfect for fear-aggressive dogs in contained areas such as kennels.

He concedes that some people are skep-tical of Y poles, thinking that they won’t give the handler enough control. “And any-one who says, ‘This is a stick, and it won’t work’ is completely correct, because they will handle it like a stick,” he adds. “For those who truly see the dog, who know how to move around a dog in a way that softens the dog, that’s where it’s going to work.” n

For more information on the Y pole, go

to animalsheltering.org/cool_tool.

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