The High altitude climate of Himachal Pradesh, wool obtained from

locally reared sheep and goat.

Pashmina is bought from Tibet.

The availability of wool has made the domestic industries possible.

Has twill woven body in grey, off white , fawn or brown shades of

natural wool and tapestry woven borders.

The borders are woven in multicoloured geometrical forms.

These shawls are used as draped garments: those worn by women

are called pattu and the ones used by men are called chandru.

Although now associated exclusively with Kullu, the technique of

combining a twill-weave base with border of tapestry woven vegetable

dyed wool originated in Kinnaur

With the migration Bhushahra community of Kinnaur to Kullu

valley, this technique of shawl weaving and Tibetan inspired geometric

motifs of Kinnuari shawls borders were brought to Kullu..

The Kinnaur style has largely replaced the chequered shawls that

were previously made in Kullu while the pattus worn daily still have a

chequared body of black and white and single border.

Those worn on festive occasions have plain bodies embellished with

woven motifs that run along their length and three borders.

Production Clusters

Kullu district:

Manali

Bhuntar

Nagrota Baghwan

Kotsanor

Kullu town:

Bashing village

Dobhi village

Mandi:Panarsa

Nagwain

Bilaspur district:

Panthera

Chamba district:

Dogra Bazaar

Kinnaur

Kangra

Shimla

ProductsPattu - warp

Dhoru : blanket

Caps

shawls

Muffler

Loi- blanket

ToolsFrame trade loom

Shuttle

Charkha - spinning wheel

Needle

SHAWLS OF NAGALAND - LOIN LOOM WEAVING

The loin loom is common to hill tribes of northeast, also refered to as backstrap

or body tension loom.

It is one of the oldest weaving devices, the weavers body is integral to the loom

and weaving is done without mechanical parts.

The loom consists of a continuous warp stretched between two parallel

bamboos, one end tied to a post or door and the other end held by a strap worn

around the weavers lower back to regulate the tension with her body.

The process of weaving entails two steps, winding a warp on a warping frame

using vertical lease sticks that keep each thread in sequence.

It is then transferred to the weaver who separates it into two layers with

bamboo shed pole, heald stick, lease stick, wooden rods, each serving different

functions.

The concept of half healds, string healds which

guide every alternate thread of the warp, is unique to

loin looms.

The half heald method requires only one shed to be

created and the other shed is formed ingeniously due

to gravity which lowers the raised thread.

This device is used to construct rugged fabric for

daily and ceremonial use, connotation derived from

rituals, beliefs and tribe identity. Each Naga tribe has a

colour and motif code which forms its distinct

identity. Patterning is done in extra warp and weft

techniques.

Production Clusters

Dimapur district:

Dimapur

Kohima district:

Kohima

Peren

Ntu village

Samgiram village

Tools

Dzudoba - loom

Chiepfu - back strap

Dzukrie- wooden beater

Dzunyu - heddle stick

Dzupou- shed stick

Dzutse - lease stick

Products

Body cloth

Wrap skirts

Shawls