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Conducted by Juliana GRUBER and Alba ROMERO VILLA
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FINAL PROJECT: WATCHES & JEWELRY!5th June
Juliana GRUBER Alba ROMERO VILLA
1780: FOUNDATION
1804 - 1880: THE ROMANTIC EMPIRE
1780 - 1810: ‘THE NINOT PERIOD’1815 - 1885: ‘THE FOSSIN & MOREL PERIOD’
1780 1880
ORIGINS & HERITAGE
A history closely interwoven with the history of France and Paris (a celebrated
destination for its magnificent jewelers).
1880-1910: LA BELLE ÉPOQUE1910: 1930: THE INDIAN STYLE
1880 1930
1910: ART DECÓ
ORIGINS & HERITAGE
KEY CURRENT COLLECTIONS
1910-1944: ART DECÓ
1944-1987: RESURGENCE OF THE BRAND 1999: LVMH
1910 TODAY
1987: SCANDALS
STRATEGIC INITIATIVES
COMMERCIAL DISTRIBUTION
International expansion!90 retail stores - Control over prices and brand essence
COMMUNICATION
Targeting a younger audience & Asian countries!Recent disruptive campaigns to move forward fashion!
French ambassadors / endorsers (Sophie Marceau, Marine Vacht)!Product Placement !
Aristocrats and actresses!No men dedicated campaigns
AUDIENCETargeting younger consumers and a wider ranges!
Wider price positions (access, regular and fine line)!Asian market, US?
HERITAGE!RCS
Sponsor / Partner at Académie des César!Responsible Jewelry Council Certification (RJC)!
The Kimberly Process!The Protection of Bees!
Exhibition of pieces
PRODUCT MANAGEMENTLarger investments in watches!
More daily jewelry and watches - consumption changes!More playful collections (new artist dir. Claire Dévé-Rakoff)
FIGURES!!
• As at 31 december 2012, total income amounted 125 m € (approx. 25% increase with respect to 2011).!
• However, the operating costs exceed the total income, resulting in an operating loss of 1 m € approx. !
• cost of goods sold and external charges are one of the factors of the company poor financial results. Such elements tend to demonstrate that the business is strongly affected by the evolution of its costs. !
• In addition, the cost of stock depreciation increase a lot in 2012 (17 m €) in comparison with the previous Financial Years (approx. 4 m €) !
• With a negative profit margin of -0,01% and a negative Return on Assets of -0,01%, it seems that the company faces business difficulties in terms of profitability. !
• The company’s debt level is quite low even though it is important to note that almost 40% of the company’s debt relates to trade creditors (25 m € in 2012). !
• It should be considered to proceed to debt leverage in order to improve the business profitability and margin by, for instance acquiring other business or expanding into new markets.!
• Most of the company’s turnover is realized in France and Japan. However, due to its fast expansion in China as from 2011, with the opening of 24 stores, China does represent now 25 % of the company’s sales.
BRAND IDENTITY
12, VENDÔME
GRAND SALON (BÉLANGER, CHOPIN)
HONG KONG
DESIGN: STYLISTIC FEATURES
POWER AND ARISTOCRATS
BEES
JEWELS
ARTISANS JEWELERS
HERITAGE & LEGEND
EMOTIONCROWNS & TIARAS
FRENCH
CUSTOM PIECES
SOBRIETY
ELEGANCE
EXPERTISE | QUALITYMANUFACTURING / WORKSHOP
14 artisans ply their trade in the workshop on Place
Vendôme, under the direction of foreman Pascal Bourdariat.
TECHNICAL FEATURES
Materials: outstanding diamonds, precious stones and gems stones.
White gold, platinum, rose gold, gold and silver.!
Attention to the smallest details!Movement complications for the watches section: quartz, manual
mechanic and automatic mechanic movements, chronograph, GMT,
large date movement, mechanical jumping hour movement, power
reserve, metronome movement and tourbillon.
INNOVATIONS
Focus on design, artistic movements
http://youtu.be/ioCoNdGUyCE
POSITIONING STATEMENT
Chaumet, the ‘prestige jeweler’ on Place Vendôme, it’s a brand full of heritage that represents the parisian ‘savoir faire’ in ‘haute jewelry’. It incarnates the historical and
modern ‘parisienne’. Filled with emotion and feelings made for those in search of something different, gorgeous and outstanding. Focus on creativity and design.
Contrast between edgy contemporary and timeless pieces.
! !
COMPETITIVE MAPPING
Fabricants
Maisons !de couture
Créateurs joailliers
Griffes !de mode
Joailliers
Argent
Grande!Distribution
CARTIER
CHOPARDPIAGET
HARRY WINSTON
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
BOUCHERON
BULGARI
CHAUMET
CHANEL
DIOR
RALPH LAUREN
LOUIS VUITTON
HERMESGUCCI
TIFFANY & CO
DINH VAN
FRED
MAUBOUSSIN
POMELLATOMESSIKA
LORENZ BAUMER
ISABELLE LANGOIS
VHERNIER
VICTORIA CASALPATRICE FABRE
Créateurs joailliers
Maisons !de couture
Joailliers
BRAND PORTFOLIO: PRODUCT & PRICEWOMEN MEN BRIDAL
Jewelry!High jewelry Jewelry
Watches!Precious Watches
Watches!Precious Watches
HAUTE JOALLERIE
Price collection between €80,000 to €900,000.! Montre Bee my Love! Montre Class One Tourbillon!
JOALLERIEAttrape-moi…si tu m’aimes !
E 5500!Classic!E 8000!
Attrape-moi…si tu m’aimes !E 47000!
DandyArt Open Face !E 40000!
ENTRYJosephine!
E 3500!Bee my love:!
E 3000!Class One!
E 4300!Class One!
E 2900!
ACCESSLiens!E 960!
Torsade!E 2000!
960 €
3.000 €
10.000 €
80.000 €
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7TF1BzSz0fk
SWOT ANALYSIS
S WO T
• Talent in house & strong ‘savoir faire’. Strong relationship with suppliers and galleries. !
• Strong heritage: brand essence, a singular brand personality!
• The flexibility to provide custom pieces. !• Part of the largest group of Luxury (LVMh) since
1999: benefit from economies of scale, supply chain management, acquisition synergies, etc. A comprehensive distribution network from a robust website and a network of galleries.!
• Ethical commitments!• Adaptability to today demands (simpler styles)
• Scandals (late 80’s) damaged the brand image!• Lost of manufacturing assets. The cost of
maintaining unfinished work in progress.!• Cost structures: work inefficiencies.!• Time consumption and delays to get final products.!• Weak development in men’s collection. !• Brand dilution as different point of access (prices)!• A large portion go the target market is not educated
in complications, technical features, etc. !• High pressure to create new outstanding pieces.
• Pricing power: consumers are less sensible to price (focus on emotional attachment, design and creativity).!
• Low barrier of entry of new competitors (great investments).!
• Ultra wealthy people and new markets offer a new source of income.!
• Great investments for an International Expansion.!• New technologies / innovations.!• E-commerce and opening of retail shops.
• Price of raw materials are rocketing as a result to the growing demand from other industries and the political instability of the countries they are being extracted from. !
• Global economical downturn and the raise of austerity as a social value.!
• New competitors -fashion brands- are pushing down the business profitability.!
• Artistic copycats and counterfeits entering the market and mimic Chaumet designs.
INTE
RNAL
ORI
GIN
at
tribu
tes
of th
e or
ganiz
atio
nEX
TERN
AL O
RIG
IN
attri
bute
s of
the
envir
onm
ent
HELPFUL to achieving the objective
HARMFUL to achieving the objective
BEE MYSELF
Strategy!To enter in the United States and offer a new product that could appeal to existing markets (Japan,
China and Europe)! !
Positioning!As an extension to the collection ‘Bee’ (My Love), the new line called ‘Bee Myself’ its’s symbolic,
poetic and full of personality. Thought as a long lasting core piece within Chaumet offer, this collection is made to commemorate an important moment in every young professionals seeking for
independence. !!
Collection!Jewelry (rings, earrings, brooch and bracelets) and watches made with different colors, each one
representing a specific career path (profession).!!
Competitor !The first haute joaillier French house to develop specific collection dedicated to this specific moment.!
!Price!
Positioned between Access and Entry
PRODUCT FEATURES
ZAFIRA !BLUE
EMERALD!GREEN
AMETHYST!PINK
Business Administration!Engineering !Psychology !
Publicity and Advertising !Marketing!Economy!Visual arts !
Music !International Relations !
Biology!Industrial Design
Biomedicine !Biochemistry !
Nursing !Physiotherapy !
Medicine !Nutrition !
Clinical Psychology !Veterinary !
Animal Science !Speech Therapy
Fashion Design !Hospitality and Tourism!
Social Worker !Geography !
History !Letters !
Theology !Pedagogy !
Social Science !Account
RUBI/GRANADA!RED
TOPAZ!YELLOW
TURMALINA!PINK
Law!Journalism!Odontology
Pharmacy !Biochemist
Account
CONCEPT DESIGN / STYLE JEWELRY FEATURES
WATCHMAKING FEATURES
BRAND SIGNATURE
Full of personality, the
Bee Myself collection is
made to celebrate important
moment in a young
professional women looking
for independence!
Use: modern and casul!
!
Simple shapes to be use daily
Volumes!
Different shapes and collors that
represent different
professionals
Platinum!
Gold!
Silver!
Precious stones!
Diamonds (simple)
Leather!
Silver!
Gold !
Diamond !
Precious stones (zafira, emerald, turmalina, rubi,
granada, topazio, amethyst)!
Automatic watches!
Manual watches!
Water-resistance
Bee!
Discret stones!
Unique shapes !
!