R B F P r o d u c t s I n c

9 8 5 I n d u s t r i a l C o u r t

L o v e s P a r k , I L . 6 1 1 1 1

W W W . r b f p r o d u c t s i n c . c o m

RBF Products, Inc.

Short tutorial on stripping RCA Connector cable using the RBF Products

WS-001 Scrap Wire Stripper

Stripping RCA

Connector Cable using

the WS-001 Scrap Wire

Stripper

Photo 1

For this demo I wanted to show stripping another common household item with my RBF Products WS-001 Scrap Wire

Stripper. A RCA Connector Audio cable (see Photo 1 above). I know I have a full tote of them in my shop just in case I ever

need to hook up another electronic device to my TV, DVD player or stereo. With today’s’ electronics and higher end

connector technology the only time I ever seem to use them is to hook up an older piece of equipment. So whenever I run

across one it usually ends up in the RCA tote.

Photo 2

First thing you need to do is pull the 2 halves of the cable apart so you have 2 separate pieces instead of 1 double connector

(see Photo 2). For this I just grabbed one connector in each hand from the same end and pulled them apart.

Photo 3

Next you’ll need to cut off the molded ends (see Photo 3). These will not pass through the wire stripper, plus there isn’t

anything to salvage from these.

Photo 4

Next you want to strip the outer insulation off of the cable. Adjust the blade on the WS – 001 Scrap Wire Stripper (Photo 4

above)by turning the large black knob on the wire stripper that moves the blade in and out until it just cuts through the

outer plastic cover. Do not set the depth of the blade too deep or you’ll cut through the braided copper shield making it

difficult to pull the cable through the stripper and also make it harder to pull the braided copper shield off the inner

insulated core. I do this by pushing the wire between the blade and the vee pulley partway through on the right side of the

unit until it contacts and cuts a short distance. I then pull it back out the right side and examine the depth of cut. If it is

through the insulation but not nicking the wires it is set correctly (Photo 5 below).

Photo 5

Photo 6

After the depth is set correctly, push the insulated wire through the right side of the wire stripper until enough of it is

sticking out the left side so that you can grab a hold of it. Grab the wire sticking out the left side and pull it through the

stripper and toward the vee. Also keep tension on the wire on the right side by applying slight pressure toward the vee. This

forces the wire into the vee and makes for a straight cut with an even depth of cut. When the wire on the right side

becomes too short just let go of the right side and pull with the left until the wire is completely through the stripper. DO

NOT put or pull your hands or fingers into the blade area. The blade is very sharp and will cut you. Once you have pulled the

wire completely through the stripper, take one end and open the cut made, grab the wire and pull it sideways against the

cut in the insulation. The inside wires should pull out of the insulation easily. (see Photo 6 above)

Photo 7

I went ahead and stripped the outer insulation off both wires while I had the depth set. Notice there was some fraying of

the braided shield after I pulled it through the insulation (Photo 7 above). I set the depth a tad too deep to show what

happens when it is too deep. With a minor depth adjustment of the blade the wire won’t fray and will be easier to pull

cleanly from the outer insulation.

Photo 8

Once the inner wire has been pulled out of the insulated cover, you want to remove the outer braided copper shield. Grab

one end of the braided copper shield and pull or push it toward the opposite end. It should loosen up and come off looking

like the one pictured in Photo 8 above. Note the grayish color of the braided shield, a slight scrapping of the OD of this

shield revealed a copper color underneath which means it is tin plated copper and not aluminum.

Photo 9

When adjusting the wire stripper for a different blade depth I like to strip one end just long enough to get a visual guide as

to how far I need to adjust the blade depth. Photo 9 above shows the exposed inner copper core after I stripped about a 1”

of the insulation off the end with a standard wire stripper. I then slide this end into the WS – 001 wire stripper on the right

side and adjust the blade down until it touches the copper using the large black knob.

Photo 10

Once the blade depth is set. Push the wire through the right side like you did (from above) when you were stripping the

outer insulation off until you have enough sticking out the left side to grab a hold of. Pull the wire through the wire stripper

from the left side like you did before, keeping tension on the right side again, making your cut through the inner insulated

jacket the full length of the wire. I have found on some thicker insulated wires or wires with a slippery insulation it is easier

to grab the wire on the left side with a pair of pliers and pull it through with them. I did not have to with this wire. After the

wire insulation is cut the full length just take a hold of the bare copper wire and pull it sideways through the cut in the

insulation. (Photo 10 above)

Photo 11

I went ahead and stripped both RCA cables once I had the blade depth set correctly and ended up with the bare copper on

the right and junk insulation on the left of Photo 11.

Photo 12

All of the pieces above are now separated and ready to add to my scrap containers. I personally have 5 gallon buckets

marked with #1 copper, #2 copper, Aluminum, etc… As you can see above I ended up with the tinned plated copper shield

(upper center), and the #1 copper wire cores (lower center) (Photo 12). I do understand that the stranded center wire is

only 26AWG but wanted to show the lower range of AWG sizes this unit will strip.

Tip #1.

If you find the bare wire to be grayish in color after stripping the insulation off. Take a knife or sharp utility blade and lightly

scrape the wire lengthwise. If it is bright silver in color where you scraped, then it is aluminum. But if it is copper colored

where you scraped, it is tin plated copper. My recycling center considers this to be #2 copper. I had to show them the

scraped areas and they scraped more at random to prove it but #2 copper does pay more per pound then aluminum. Not as

much as #1 copper but just a little tidbit of information to get as much for your scrap as you can.

Tip #2.

If you are doing multiple pieces of the same style wire. I do them all according to the blade depth at a time. Like on these

RG 59 cables, I would cut the outer insulation off all of the pieces I had after the blade was set to the proper depth on the

first piece and likewise I would cut the inner insulation off all the pieces after that blade depth is set.

To get your own WS-001 Scrap Wire Stripper.

Go to: http://shop.rbfproductsinc.com/Adjustable-Scrap-Wire-Stripper-WS-001.htm

Or you can contact them at WWW.RBFPRODUCTSINC.COM