Pattern Making Deparment

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PATTERN MAKING

BY

Kardelen Karaibrahimoğlu

Elif Damla Küçükkarakaş

Gülüstan Şimşek

Merve Küçükler

Meriç Emiroğlu

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PATTERN MAKING

Pattern making is an art. It is the art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric to conform to one or more curves of the human figure .

Pattern making is a bridge function between design and production.

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PATTERN MAKING

A sketch can be turned into a garment via a pattern which interprets the design in the form of the garment components (Cooklin).

Now a day’s sophisticated software programs are used for pattern making.

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BASICS OF PATTERN MAKING

A pattern is flat while the body is not. The body has height, width and depth.

Darts are the basis of all pattern making. They convert the flat piece of cloth into a three dimensional form, which fits the bulges of the body.

A patternmaker typically makes a pattern from a flat sketch with measurements or a two dimensional fashion illustration.

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BASICS OF PATTERN MAKING

The basic pattern is the very foundation upon which pattern making, fit and design are based.

The basic pattern is the starting point for flat pattern designing.

It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just enough ease for movement and comfort (Shoben and Ward).

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HISTORY OF PATTERN MAKING

Prior to the Industrial Revolution the art of patternmaking was highly revered.

Tailors meticulously worked with their client's personal measurements to customize patterns

Clothing made by tailors was elaborate and relegated only to the very rich.

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With the onset of the Industrial Revolution, standardized patterns were essential to the success of ready-to-wear clothing.

Initial attempts to create standardized patterns resulted in poorly fitting garments with little detail.

After lengthy experimentation and standardized sizing, patternmaking made a triumphant transformation from customization to standardization.

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Computers have been used by apparel companies since the early 1980's.

Pattern Design Systems (PDS) have become invaluable tools to the patternmaker, assisting in much of the repetitive tasks associated with patternmaking.

PDS systems are capable of storing an incredible amount of data that can be quickly retrieved, tweaked and re-filed.

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Using a mouse or stylus, patternmakers are able to swiftly add style details and make changes.

There are many benefits to PDS - speed, accuracy and ease of data transmission being some of the most obvious.

In today's competitive environment, software companies are zeroing in on the growing demands of the apparel manufacturer.

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HISTORY OF PATTERN MAKING Current research focuses

on generating patterns that produce better fitting garments and 3D visualization tools to help fine tune style.

With on going technological advances and diligent research, patternmaking software companies continue to successfully address the needs of their customers.

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Apparel Design and Product Development professionals design sportswear, suits, dresses, coats, accessories, and just about everything else that people wear. Designers research color and style trends to create concepts and sketches for fashions one to two years in advance of the market. Some create new garment styles while others adapt styles from a previous season.

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Lectra was born in the fashion industry forty years ago and understands the complexity of both daily management and the operational change needed to develop apparel while remaining competitive. Four decades of pioneering technology have shaped our design, development, and production solutions to meet 21st-century challenges

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GERBER CAD SOFTWARE (ACCUMARK FAMILY) AccuMark software contains the most

comprehensive set of pattern development tools in the industry, along with many other features to meet the fast-changing needs of today's manufacturers. It’s the standard for pattern design, grading and marker making.

Vstitcher™ is the most powerful 3D design and visualization software accelerating the entire product development life-cycle; it interfaces seamlessly with AccuMark, enabling a fast and easy transformation of 2D patterns into 3D garments.

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AccuNest creates new, efficient marker layouts automatically, analyzing multiple solutions and selecting the marker with the best material utilization. AccuNest is easy to operate and is substantially faster and more efficient than manual marker making, enabling you to save time and money when making sample, costing and production markers.

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From first creative spark to final product, Lectra has powerful solutions to address the entire fashion product lifecycle. From fast fashion to luxury to ready-to-wear, Lectra’s customers in markets as varied as casual, sportswear, outdoor, denim, and lingerie represent diverse development and sourcing models.

Beyond suppliers and manufacturers, they are the brands. you love and the stores where you shop.

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Pattern makers make designs a reality by working out proportions and exact details of style for production. Apparel design includes specializations in active sportswear, protective clothing for industry, functional apparel for people with physically challenging conditions and costuming for the theater. All of these careers are open to talented men and women with degrees in Apparel Design from OSU

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Pattern making includes stills in pattern adaptation and pattern drafting. Pattern drafting requires a pattern block or working drawing to be established by using key measurements and using these to develop a pattern which interprets a garments or items design including its special features. Patterns are tested using toiles and mock-ups to ensure that pattern pieces correctly interpret a design and its special features.

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Initially students learn how to select and adapt existing patterns to enable a garment to correctly fit for the body or an item to meet desired size and fit specifications. This should progress to students learning how to draft patterns and test these using toiles and mock-ups to ensure the final pattern correctly interprets a design and its special features. Students also learn how to develop a pattern guide sheet that incorporates appropriate language, symbols and/or diagrams to: communicate pattern layout, and the step by step instructions required to construct a garment or item.

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BASIC TOOLS FOR APPAREL PATTERNMAKING

Having the right tools for making a pattern is a super important place to start. Luckily, most tools are not expensive and are easy to get.

Here’s the quick list.1) Large scale paper 2) Clear Gridded Ruler3) Flexible Design Rule4) Hip/Arm Curve (Styling Design Ruler)5) Pencil and a good Eraser6) Large pins7) Cork panels8) Flexible Measuring Tape9) Basic sewing book

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EXAMPLE :

Drafting of a basic skirt pattern.Measurements:Waistline: 72cm + 4%easeHips:98 cm + 4%easeSkirt length : 60cmWaist to hips : 21

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Drafting of a basic patternDraw a vertical line with Waist(1), Hips(2), Skirt length(3)2-4, 1-5, 3-6 ½ hips girthDraw a vertical line in the middle of horizontal lines to obtain 7,8,9.

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1-10= ¼ waistline + 2.5 cm5-11= ¼ waistline + 3.5 cm3cm to the left and right of 9 is 12 and 13.Draw lines from 12 and 13 to 8.Draw suitable curves from 10 and 11 to 8.

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Drafting darts:Front dart:2.5 cmBack dart :3.5 cm1-14= (1-10) X 2/3 5-16=(5-11) X ½ 14 and 16 are in the middle of the darts.14-15= 7-8 cm16-17= 12-14

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PATTERN MAKING IN TODAY’S WORLD

Pattern making today has become an easy job with the use of the computers.

Now-a-days different soft wares are available in the market to meet the needs of the manufacturers.

The different soft wares used are Gerber, Lectra, Tukatech , OptiTex etc.

These softwares has made the job of the Pattern master easier.

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They have made the process of pattern making more economical and less time consuming.

Pattern-making soft wares enables you to input your measurements and draft out a pattern. These soft wares draft patterns to fit your measurements specifically, eliminating much fitting trial and error in the sewing room.

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A pattern can be made from a 3D form in just a few steps by using these soft wares. An individual's measurements are collected from 3D body scanner. The measurements are used to create a virtual 3D model of the individual's body.

The 3D to 2D software allows the user to define a garment surface in relation to the 3D body model. Once the garment surface is defined, the application automatically unwraps and outputs a 2D flat pattern in .dxf format.

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REFERENCES

Aldrich, Winifred. 1997, Metric Pattern Cutting. Blackwell Science Ltd U.K.

Armstrong H.J, 2000, Pattern Making for Fashion Design, Harper & row publishers, New York

Cooklin, G.1994, Pattern Cutting for Womens Outerwear

Hudson, P.B, 1980, The role of fit and Fashion on Apparel Quality, Bobbin.

Shoben, M.M and J.P. Ward, 1999, Pattern cutting and Making up, CBS Publishers, New Delhi

Helen Stanley, 1991, Flat pattern cutting & modeling for fashion, U.K

Prof.Dr. Gülseren Kurumer,Konfeksiyon Üretimi ve Teknolojisi, 2012.

Technology

Pattern Making Deparment