Seams and Stitches

A seam is defined as a line over which two or

more fabrics are superimposed over each

other. A seam may also contain the row or

rows of stitching threads used to

superimpose the fabrics.

A stitch is how an interlacing threads move

over and between the two or more

superimposed fabrics, joining them. Stitch is

also applied at the edges of the fabric to

avoid unraveling of ends.

Submitted by

Kundan Ganvir

Roll no. M/MFM/12/15

MFM 2nd Semester

Seams and

Stitches -Types and

Classification

Seams- Classification

Super-imposed seams

Page no. 1

Lapped seams

Page no. 2

Bound seams

Page no. 3

Flat seams

Page no. 4

Decorative seams

Page no. 5

Edge neatening seams

Page no. 6

Super-Imposed Seams

Definition:

A category of seams in which two or

more piles of fabric are overlaid, one on

the top of other with raw edges aligned

and sewn together at the designated

distance from the raw edges, with one

or more rows of stitch.

Applications:

Side seams of skirt, in seams of jeans,

dress stacks, finishing belt ends,

attaching elastic to waistline, ends of

waist bands on jeans, collars or cuffs,

seamed and stitched.

1

Super imposed seam on denim sides

Super imposed seam on shirt sides

Lapped Seams

Definition:

A category of seams in which two or

more piles of fabric are overlapped with

raw edges exposed or the seam

allowance is folded under and stitched

with one or more rows of stitching.

Applications:

Main seaming of denim jackets, jeans,

and overalls. Fabrics that will not ravel,

unlined garments, side seams of shirts,

joining lace to another fabric, attaching

patch pockets, decorative finish

2

Lapped seam with single stitch line

Lapped seam with double stitch line

Bound Seam

Definition:

A bound seam class is formed by sewing

one piece of fabric or binding as it

encompasses the edge of one or more

pieces of fabric.

Applications:

Finishing necklines, sleeves hems, inside

waistbands of trousers and pants,

finishing seams on unlined jackets and

coats, adding interest as a design or

decorative detail, finishing raw edges,

continuing the motif design of lace.

3

Bound seam with single stitch line

Bound seam at neck line

Flat Seam

Definition:

A flat seam is constructed by having two

pieces of fabric meet precisely at their

edges. A cover stitch is used to sew the

two pieces of fabric together. This stitch

has multiple needles and creates a stitch

perpendicular to the seam line.

Applications:

Close fitting garments where the seam

allowance may put pressure on the

body, high-stretch fabrics, athletic

apparel, shape wear, undergarments,

and swimwear.

4

Flat seam with single stitch line

Flat seam on baseball ball

Decorative Seam

Definition:

This seam is made using machines with

zigzag capability. The zigzag stitch

length (coverage) must be adjusted to

accommodate and prevent fabric from

raveling. The more the fabric ravels, the

closer together the stitches need to be

(tighter or shorter stitch length).

Applications:

Adding a design detail, cording, piping,

tucking, welting, box or inverted

pleating, decorative stitching, etc.

5

Ornamental seam with beads

between fabrics

Decorative seam on hand bags

Edge Neatening Seam

Definition:

A category of seam constructed with one or two

plies of fabric used to finish the edge of a

garment or item. There are three finishing types

within the classification.

1. Secures a folded edge to the shell fabric by

stitching, either on the face or back.

2. Stitching is used at the edge or to cover the

raw edges, and may or may not be folded.

3. Applies a binding on a single ply of a seam

allowance to finish raw edges.

Applications:

Bottom and side hems of shirts, trousers, raw

edges of apparels, etc.

6

Edge finishing on raw edges of

trousers

Edge neatening seam on

handkerchief

Stitches- Classification

Class 100

Chain Stitches

Page no. 8

Class 200

Hand Stitches

Page no. 9

Class 300

Lock Stitches

Page no. 10

Class 400

Multi Thread Chain Stitches

Page no. 11

Class 500

Over Edge Stitches

Page no. 12

Class 600

Covering Chain Stitches

Page no. 13

7

Class 100- Chain Stitches

Chain stitches are produced by one or more needle

threads and are characterized by interloping.

One needle thread is passed through the fabric, form

needle loop and is secured by the next loop formed by the same thread.

Chain stitch is elastic and thicker than lockstitch and can easily be ravelled,

Particular care is required to prevent runback from the

last stitch,

Used for temporary stitching or for Blind stitching

Applications:

Hemming, Belt Loops, Padding Operations & Felling.

Types of Chain Stitches:

Type 101, 103 and 104

Type 101-

Formed with only one thread introduced from one side of material only.

Type 103-

Formed with one thread and a curved

needle which passes from left to right,

entering and exiting from same side of

material carrying a needle thread which is

intercepted by a blind looper.

8

Class 200- Hand Stitches

This type is originated from hand stitches. It is

produced from a single thread. This thread is

passed through the fabric from one side to

another and the stitch is secured by the single line

of thread passing in and out of the garment.

Applications:

Stitching of costly dresses, jackets, sample

garments, etc

Types of Hand Stitches:

Running Basting: Temporary and decorative purposes.

Back stitch: Used whenever strength is important.

Diagonal Basting: Useful for slippery fabrics.

Buttonhole stitch: Decorative of functional depending on closeness of stitch.

9

Class 300- Lock Stitches

This type of stitches is produced with two or more

groups of threads. Here the two threads are joined by

interlacing. Loops of one group are passed through the

material and are secured by the thread of second

group. One group is referred as needle thread and other

as bobbin thread. This stitch has enough strength and

same appearance on both sides.

Applications:

Underwear, most types of apparels, decorative purposes.

Types of Lock Stitches:

Type 301, 304, 308 and 309

Type 301-

Two threads, one needle and other bobbin

thread. Loop of needle thread passes through material and interlaced with bobbin thread.

Type 304-

The construction is similar to type 301, but the

needle bar moves as the material is fed giving a zigzag stitch.

Type 308-

Double step zigzag lockstitch.

10

Class 400-Multi thread chain stitch

This class is formed with two or more groups of

threads. Loops of one group of thread are passed

through the material and are secured by

interlacing and interloping with loops of another

group. Here on group is called needle thread and

another group looper thread. It has an appearance

of lock stitch on the top but has a double chain

effect formed by a looper thread on the under-side.

Applications:

Used for setting elastic in waist bands, decorative stitching on belts.

Types of Multi thread chain stitches:

Type 401, 404 and 406.

Type 401-

Loops of needle thread are passed through

materials and interlaced with loops of

bobbin thread. These interloping are drawn up against underside of material.

Type 402-

Zigzag chain stitch, construction is same as

type 401, but needle bed moves as material is fed.

Type 406-

Two needle threads interlace with one

bobbin tread, which are then drawn up

underside of material.

11

Class 500-Over-edge chain stitch

The stitch type in this class is formed with one or more

groups of threads. Here at least one group of thread

passes around the edge of material. So no thread from

the fabric can come out. The most frequently used

stitch of this type have one or two needle threads and

one or two looper threads and thus forms a narrow

band of stitching along the edge of the fabric.

Applications:

Edge neatening of knitted fabrics, where extensibility

of stitches in important. Polo tees, sports wear, dance wear garments.

Types of Over Edge chain Stitches:

Type 503, 504, 512.

Type 503-

Two threads, needle thread passes through

material and is brought to edge where it is

interlaced with bobbin threads. Edge of fabric is sealed.

Type 504-

Three threads, one needle and two lower

bobbin threads. Needle thread interloops with

one bobbin thread, then the first bobbin thread loop is interlaced with second bobbin thread.

Type 504-

Four thread over edge chain stitch.

12

Class 600-Over-edge chain stitch

This type of stitches is generally produced with three

groups of threads. Threads of two groups can be seen

from either side. The first group of thread is called

needle thread, second is called top cover thread and the

third is called bottom cover thread. The stitches of this

class are very complex and up to 9 threads can be used

in producing these stitches.

Applications:

Knits, Lingerie, binding elastics, decoration, etc.

Types of Over-Edge Chain Stitches:

Type 602, 605, 607

Type 602-

Formed with four threads, two needle threads,

one bobbin and one cover threads. Needle

threads are passed through loops of covering

threads on material surface and interlace

with bobbin thread at underside of material.

Type 605-

Five threads, three needle, one covering and

one bobbin threads. Construction is same as type 602.

Type 607-

Six threads, four needle threads, one covering

thread and one bobbin thread. Construction is

same as 602 and 605.

13