Great War Remembrance Cycle trail

The following article attempts to take you and your bicycle on a round trip of a few days’ duration in order to discover the major sites of the Western Front involving British troops. It is also a great opportunity to get a taste of France so close to home. You will be taken to Saint-Omer, Arras, Montreuil, Etaples and Wimereux, a round trip of just under 400 kilometres, or 240 miles.

You’re in France from the moment you board the Berlioz or the Rodin. French ships with that certain flair and style, a french crew, and, of course, typically french meals and snacks. This article is written by Alain Lenain, born and bred in this part of France. He has himself travelled widely on his bicycle and he is a greeter. To find out more about greeters and Alain, go to http://www.greeters62.com/visite-pas-de-calais/portraits-greeters/Alain-Lenain.asp It does not matter whether you’re a confirmed cyclist, whether you just ride occasionally, even not at all, this is an opportunity to discover this region so close to Britain, yet totally different, and, at the same time, to visit some of those places where the first world war left its mark for ever. As said earlier, you’re in France from the moment you are on board one of the MyFerryLink ships, so here are a few tips about cycling in France which will contribute to your having the best possible break: * ride on the right, pretty obvious, but many forget. * the rule is that traffic from the right has right of way, unless otherwise stated. * Lunch is the main meal of the day in France. It is when you will find the best deals in restaurants and brasseries. * Most shops, especially in rural areas close between 12:00 and 14:00 * If you just want to eat a sandwich for your lunch, many boulangeries and cafés will prepare for you a baguette sandwich. In this part of France, you will not escape from the friteries, although I personally recommend chips for lunch when cycling * Cyclists need to drink water. If you need supplies, just pop in to any cemetery. The water at the tap is always potable. It is stated by law when it’s not. * There are several warmshowers members in the area, so do take advantage of this facility. * Do make use of the local Office de tourisme. You will always get a welcome and relevant information.

Day 1

So, you are now in Calais. This trip can be done in the order given or back to front. All of it can be done on two wheels, count about five days, more if you want. You can combine bike and train. All local french trains take bicycles, up to twelve, at no extra charge. You can also do the trip by car with the bikes on board and just use the bikes on a localised basis. Although the trip is centred on the first world war, you will also have the opportunity to discover other features… As I am in Calais, I would make for the town hall. Its belfry can be seen a long way off and the statue in front of it merits a few minutes. Calais was under English rule from 1347 until 1558 and it has the only example of a Tudor church in France. Notre-Dame church is between the port and the town hall and it is where de Gaulle married Yvonne Vendroux in 1921. It has just been restored and is worth a visit. Nearby, on the Place d’Armes, has been erected a statue of them both. The statue by Rodin (were you on the Rodin?) represents the six town burghers who surrendered the keys to the town to Edward lll after a whole year’s siege following the victory at Crécy. The town people were starved

and the anger of the English King was such he wanted to have their representatives executed. His wife who was pregnant pleaded with him to spare them as to kill them would bring bad luck on their child. Whist you’re here, you can also go into the town hall. It is a public building and is listed as a Unesco World Heritage Site. We need to get a move on and make for the Blockhaus d’Eperlecques. https://www.google.fr/maps/dir/Mairie,+Place+Albert+1er,+62100+Calais/Mus%C3%A9e+du+Blockhaus+d%27%C3%89perlecques,+Rue+du+Sart,+%C3%89perlecques/@50.8798676,1.8823117,11z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m14!4m13!1m5!1m1!1s0x47dc3f72ee30a993:0xf1d24c674cb8114b!2m2!1d1.853631!2d50.947266!1m5!1m1!1s0x47dc5761ad8e94ff:0xffc71c17b9dcdb54!2m2!1d2.182263!2d50.827203!3e1

Although this is a Second World War, it will totally amaze you. It is not closed for lunch as you will probably arrive here about then if you came on the 7:30 sailing. It’s likely you’ll spend one and a half hours here which works out quite nicely as you decide to visit one of the only two genievre (gin) distillers in France.

They’re closed twelve till two and Houlle is only 4 Kms away and it’s flat all the way! https://www.google.fr/maps/dir/Mus%C3%A9e+du+Blockhaus+d%27%C3%89perlecques,+Rue+du+Sart,+%C3%89perlecques/Distillerie+Persyn+SARL,+Route+de+Watten,+Houlle/@50.8119344,2.1391436,13z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m14!4m13!1m5!1m1!1s0x47dc5761ad8e94ff:0xffc71c17b9dcdb54!2m2!1d2.182263!2d50.827203!1m5!1m1!1s0x47dc573d766be087:0xc8a69a8fde76d73f!2m2!1d2.173936!2d50.796247!3e1

You can forward book a visit or just pop in to the shop. It’s on your way to Saint-Omer, your overnight stop. http://www.genievredehoulle.com/uk/page1.html

It’s now mid-afternoon and you’re less than 30 minutes’ ride from Saint-Omer centre. I suggest you make for the Office de Tourisme. You might need to find a bed for the night or a camp site. You will probably make a point of touring this architecturally interesting town. It was here that the Headquarters of the British army was based at the beginning of the Great War, from 1914 to 1916. Train/bike Option

The train station in Calais is just up the road from the town hall. There are regular trains to Watten-Eperlecques and on to Saint-Omer. http://uk.voyages-sncf.com/en/

Day 2

Longuenesse is a few minutes’ ride from Saint-Omer. Aim for the aerodrome where just inside the entrance has been erected a monument to the Royal Flying Corps, which gave birth to the R.A.F. For more information: http://www.webmatters.net/txtpat/?id=255

From here, you have the choice of two routes towards Arras. In fact, we’re aiming for Aix-Noulette. I recommend the route through Olhain, through

the old coalfield, a little hilly, but with more to please the eye along the way. https://www.google.fr/maps/dir/Saint-Omer/A%C3%A9rodrome+de+Saint+Omer,+Chemin+du+Plateau+des+Bruy%C3%A8res,+Longuenesse/Olhain,+Fresnicourt-le-Dolmen/Aix-Noulette/@50.5543859,2.2651335,11z/data=!4m26!4m25!1m5!1m1!1s0x47dcf893912760af:0x40af13e8163d5e0!2m2!1d2.252208!2d50.750115!1m5!1m1!1s0x47dc55f06ffd906f:0xc22d50349c8bed33!2m2!1d2.232059!2d50.730098!1m5!1m1!1s0x47dd1622cdd951c9:0xa0af141326a2950!2m2!1d2.5857!2d50.424929!1m5!1m1!1s0x47dd3b945da800b9:0x40af13e816403d0!2m2!1d2.710604!2d50.426721!3e1

The flatter route involves following the canal out of St. Omer to Aire-sur-la-Lys, then on to Béthune, where you leave the canal for Aix-Noulette. https://www.google.fr/maps/dir/Saint-Omer/Aire-sur-la-Lys/B%C3%A9thune/Aix-Noulette/@50.5899736,2.1859275,10z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m26!4m25!1m5!1m1!1s0x47dcf893912760af:0x40af13e8163d5e0!2m2!1d2.252208!2d50.750115!1m5!1m1!1s0x47dd02969f929c99:0x2bcdbbc3588841bd!2m2!1d2.396187!2d50.638757!1m5!1m1!1s0x47dd2259039319ff:0xc2f9dc5f81c67d18!2m2!1d2.63926!2d50.531036!1m5!1m1!1s0x47dd3b945da800b9:0x40af13e816403d0!2m2!1d2.710604!2d50.426721!3e1

On the basis you’ve made an early start, the idea is to be in Aix-Noulette for lunch. There is here a craft brewery here and, even if it’s closed when you’re passing through, there is a brasserie where you can eat at affordable prices and enjoy the local brew! From Aix-Noulette, we make for Arras, a mere 15 kilometres away where we make two overnight stops. Look out along the way for monuments to Czech and Polish troops. In fact, throughout this trip, you might like to make a note of all the nations which took part in this conflict. Although you can decide to visit some of the sites past which you’ll cycle on the way to Arras, my recommendation is to make for Arras where you’ll have time to visit the Wellington quarry, find lodgings and visit, if time allows, the boves, the man-made caves under the town quarried for stone for the town buildings, where allied troops found shelter. http://www.explorearras.com/en/visit/heritage.html

A visit to the Wellington quarry is a must. http://www.greatwar.co.uk/french-flanders-artois/museum-wellington-quarry.htm

Take away with you a poppy or two! The British Legion has a presence here. More about that later… http://www.britishlegion.org.uk/get-involved/how-to-give/?gclid=CjwKEAjwwN-rBRD-oMzT6aO_wGwSJABwEIkJrPuKwOYC_sFrPHiGrG4nw3Q0TVXkaxmbRolD3ASQfRoCPZ7w_wcB http://www.cwgc.org/

Option day 2

After visiting the Royal Air Corps memorial, back to Saint-Omer train station from where you can catch a train to Hazebrouck and change there for a train to Arras, many of which stop at stations close to Vimy and Notre-Dame de Lorette.

Day 3

Head out of Arras along the road which you took yesterday and make for Neuville Saint-Vaast and the Maison Blanche German cemetery. It is the largest German cemetery in France. You will be struck by the harmony with which the graves are laid out in relation to the landscape and the Jewish graves won’t escape your notice either. The regional tourism authority has produced a very good guide which I recommend you download. This cemetery is n°9. http://www.remembrancetrails-northernfrance.com/uploads/media/CRT-Livret-cyclotourisme-GB_02.pdf

From here, make for Zivy and Lichfield craters, n°8, then for Vimy, n° 6, where you will doubtless spend quite some time. You will have spotted the great monument the previous day on your way to Arras, two arms stretched towards the sky in the name of sorrow. http://www.greatwar.co.uk/french-flanders-artois/memorial-canadian-national-vimy-memorial.htm

From Vimy, it is a short ride to the next site, n°1 on your plan, Notre-Dame de Lorette, another hill, scene of bloody assaults.

On the main road at the foot of the hill, a new interpretation centre is opening on the 9th of June. If it’s lunch-time, you could try the café A l’Potée d’Léandre across the road. There is also a cafeteria at the top of the hill. You visited the largest Germary this morning. Notre-Dame de Lorette is the largest French cemetery. It is watched over by over 4000 volunteers throughout the year, all in uniform. The feature here is the Ring of Remembrance, officially opened on the 11th of November last. This ring, which dominates the local countryside, is engraved with the names of the 580 000 dead in alphabetical order regardless of nationality, rank or creed. How many nationalities will you spot here other than German, British and French? I can think of several… You might want to visit Cabaret Rouge, n° 4 or follow the circuit on the plan through Carency and Mont Saint-Eloi, back to Arras. Day 4

An early start is needed for to-day’s stage to Montreuil-sur-Mer, with a number of places to stop at along the way. You will be travelling through the Artois. It was near Lillers that, in 1124, monks discovered the phenomenon of what is known worldwide as the artesian well. You will be crossing an area which undulates, punctuated by water towers on the high points, feeding small, sleepy villages. Agriculture is prominent here, as you will see from the incessant successions of cultivated fields. Do avoid the main road, D939! Our first stop is the château of Brias where several top level meetings were held, such as between several generals in June 1915, French, Foch, Huguet and Wilson, then Allenby, the King of Montenegro, Nicholas I Petrovic and several spanish generals in November 1916. You’ll find it to the right of the church, down a gravel path, or off the main road, just opposite a ruined chapel.

From here, just head slightly north to reach the village of Bermicourt. Here, you will find a hotel restaurant by the name of La Cour de Rémi. This was the H.Q. of the Tank Corps from 1916 to the end of the conflict. If you don’t know why tanks are so called, this is your chance to find out! From here, we are going to go back 500 years in time by visiting Azincourt where on the 25th of October 1415 the troops led by Henry V defeated the French army of King Jean. https://www.google.fr/maps/dir/Arras/Brias/La+Cour+de+R%C3%A9mi,+Rue+Baillet,+Bermicourt/Azincourt/@50.3777652,1.6821524,9z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m26!4m25!1m5!1m1!1s0x47dd47d866f95a7b:0x6869aedb05652a21!2m2!1d2.777535!2d50.291002!1m5!1m1!1s0x47dd0e0baff12ff9:0x40af13e8163f9f0!2m2!1d2.379344!2d50.409429!1m5!1m1!1s0x47dd0a1ccc66ab2b:0xa5f3ae9971b99be5!2m2!1d2.228941!2d50.407122!1m5!1m1!1s0x47dda5d217c57cff:0x40af13e816400b0!2m2!1d2.12847!2d50.4629819!3e1

There is a very interesting interpretation centre in the village, you can tour the battle site and make this your lunch stop too! Back on the bike for the last leg of today’s stage all the way to Montreuil, a delightful town which became the British H.Q. under General Haig until the end of the war. Take the route through the village of Fressin and its medieval castle where, if you have time, you might want to take a closer look. https://www.google.fr/maps/dir/Azincourt/Montreuil/@50.4134398,1.9674536,12z/data=!4m15!4m14!1m5!1m1!1s0x47dda5d217c57cff:0x40af13e816400b0!2m2!1d2.12847!2d50.4629819!1m5!1m1!1s0x47ddc65c44141fff:0x40af13e8163e0d0!2m2!1d1.768269!2d50.46816!3e1!5i2

This is the prettiest route to Montreuil. Montreuil is a walled town, its ramparts go back to the 11th century and it was the setting for part of Victor Hugo’s story of Les Misérables.

From the First World War, you will come across a statue to Haig on the main square. He, too, stayed in a château, called Beaurepaire, but it is almost invisible from the road so not worth making a detour. Lots of hotels here, a camp-site at the foot of the ramparts, many eating places, interesting architecture and quaintness everywhere. Option day 4

Take a train from Arras to Saint Pol sur Ternoise. This is not a well served line, so be careful, very few trains. Only two morning trains. From St. Pol, it’s easy to reach Brias and Bermicourt, then on to Azincourt. From Azincourt, cycle to Hesdin and catch a train to Montreuil. Only two afternoon departures. Day 5

We start with an easy ride to Etaples. This was the major training centre for fresh troops from the British Empire and also a major centre for handling injured from the front, all thanks to its rail links. As you leave the town heading north, you cannot miss the British cemetery. You have been to the largest German and French cemeteries. This is the largest British cemetery in France. Most British cemeteries are looked after by the C.W.G.C., located near Arras. Etaples was a large hospital centre and the cemetery contains the remnants of those soldiers who did not survive their injuries. http://www.remembrancetrails-northernfrance.com/trails/the-allies-logisitics-base-on-the-channel-coast/etaples-military-cemetery.html

Continue along the cycle track all the way to Condette. You can’t miss it and it is here that you can visit the Château d’Hardelot, the Entente Cordiale Cultural Centre. Here is being built the only Shakespearean round theatre in France. More details here: http://www.thegoodlifefrance.com/chateau-dhardelot-northern-france/

Back to the First World war trail. Continue northwards out of Condette. Very soon , you are at Saint Etienne au Mont. As you enter the town, stop at the cemetery on the left at the top of the hill. Another nation involved. Did you get this one? Follow on to Boulogne and, staying northwards, go to Wimereux. In Wimereux, find the town cemetery where there are several war graves. Wimereux was a major hospital town in the war, essentially for Canadians and Australians. You did not forget to get that poppy in Arras? Just find the grave of John McRae and there you will want to leave your poppy as a gesture of thanks for his poem in Flanders’ fields. The poem is normally available on the grave:

In Flanders fields the poppies blow Between the crosses, row on row, That mark our place; and in the sky The larks, still bravely singing, fly Scarce heard amid the guns below.

We are the Dead. Short days ago We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow, Loved and were loved, and now we lie In Flanders fields.

Take up our quarrel with the foe: To you from failing hands we throw The torch; be yours to hold it high. If ye break faith with us who die We shall not sleep, though poppies grow In Flanders fields.

From Wimereux where there are many places where you can eat, especially along the promenade and the main street, just follow the beautiful Côte d’Opale, through several pretty fishing villages, past a Portuguese monument and several reminders of the Second World War. You have a major hill to climb up to Blanc Nez where you will spot an obelisk to the memory of the Dover Patrol. This will be your last stop on this remembrance trail. All that is left for you to do is to coast all the way to Calais port and the return ferry, Berlioz or Rodin. Option day 5

There is a good train service between Etaples Boulogne, Wimereux and Calais. You are seated on board your return ferry after five days of cycling with a purpose. You’ve discovered what you did not know or had forgotten about the Great War. You will have cycled through attractive landscapes and through pretty villages. You will have sampled the French way of life as it is here in the Nord and Pas-de-Calais.