Ladakh “The Last Shangri-La”

Introduction

The word Ladakh literally means the “The Last Shangri-La”. Often referred to as a mountain desert, it is one of the world’s highest and driest inhabited places. Located in the Western Himalayas, Ladakh has to its south the state of Himachal Pradesh and to its west the Kashmir Valley. It shares international borders with China and Pakistan to its east and north respectively. Once located on the caravan trails of the legendary Silk Route, Ladakh saw the movement of silk, indigo, gold and opium as traders made their way over high mountain passes between Kashmir Valley and Kashgar and Yarkand in present-day China. As the famed over land trade route gave way to increased sea trade, Ladakh lapsed into isolation. Spirituality and a frugal way of life based on an age old understanding of ecology soon took root. Ladakh’s strategic location brought it back into focus post independence. The frontier region was opened to international tourists in 1974. By the 1990s, Ladakh was high on the wish list of international tourists looking for an alternative to the materialistic world, and Indian tourists caught in the throes of a rapidly transforming economic landscape. Today, any journey to Ladakh has twin dimensions of

the physical and the spiritual closely fused.

Topography

The word ‘height’ takes on a whole new meaning here. Ladakh is quite literally the ‘roof of the world’. The region’s base height is around 9,000 feet and rises up to 25,164 feet. In the days before air travel, the only access to Ladakh was through very high passes such as Zoji La at 14,000 feet (to the west towards Kashmir Valley), Taglang La at 17,200 feet (to the south towards Manali) and Khardung La at 18,380 feet (to the north towards Nubra Valley and China beyond).

Arriving at Leh by air, acclimatization becomes a must. Consider this: At 11,500 feet above sea level it is 4,000 feet higher than Mount Kosciuszko, Australia’s highest peak, and double the height of most popular Indian hill stations. A steep 90 minute drive from Leh leads to the highest motorable road in the world, Khardung La. At 18,380 feet, Khardung La is just a thousand feet shy of Africa’s highest peak, Mount Kilimanjaro. Ladakh, in short, is a place where you’ll be reaching dizzying heights in the comfort of a vehicle as opposed to trekking or mountaineering. Barren mountains, soaring snow capped peaks and plunging valleys, Ladakh is an experience like none. Only Tibet perhaps!

Along Ladakh’s northern frontier lies the Karakoram Range. Saser Kangri, the region’s highest peak at 25,164 feet forms a part of this range. The Himalayan Range pans along Ladakh’s eastern and southern borders. The mighty river Indus (India derives its name from Indus) enters Ladakh from the east in Tibet. It originates from close to Mount Kailash; revered by Hindus and Buddhists alike.

Think Ladakh, and stunning lakes come into the picture. The largest of which is Pangong Tso. India and China share this lake, and it forms the natural border between the two at this point. Further south are Tso Kar and Tso Moriri.

Acclimatization

Most people acclimatize reasonably well to about 3000 meters (10,000 feet). Thereafter it becomes mandatory to ascend slowly. Statistics show that over 50% people feel uneasy or become sick if they ascend rapidly beyond 3,500 meters (11,000 feet). Therefore, on arrival at Leh (11,500 feet) by air, acclimatization becomes a must. Risking which leaves one open to an attack of Acute Mountain Sickness or AMS. Acute Mountain Sickness in simple terms means an adverse reaction to lower amounts of oxygen available at high altitudes. This can lead to serious health hazards.

Following are a few suggestions that will go a long way in helping one acclimatize:

Stay hydrated. Drink lots of fluids. Acclimatization causes fluid loss, so we suggest you drink at least 4 to 5 liters of water per day. Clear urine is a good indicator that one is doing well.

Avoid tobacco, alcohol, sleeping pills and other depressant drugs. They decrease the respiratory flow while an individual is at rest or asleep. This further aggravates the situation.

Eat light. Go for low fat food high on carbohydrates food.

One of the most natural ways of dealing with the vagaries of acclimatization is to sleep/rest well. After Two-three nights, most are reasonably well acclimatized. For more details on Mountain Sickness Visit Also check our website rltgo.com for more details on Mountain Sickness

People & Culture

A high altitude desert, Ladakh’s stark beauty and frugal resources have resulted in a way of life that is deeply Spiritual. One that relies on cooperative existence and an intimate understanding of the environment!

Tibetan Buddhism is at the heart of Ladakhi culture. Centuries old monasteries reflect a land charged with a Quiet quest for

enlightenment. Monks are respected and revered by society at large. Colorful prayer flags Fluttering high on mountain tops are at once visually arresting and physiologically soothing. Buddhists, especially From the Western world, are spreading the gospel of the ‘Ladakhi Way’ to the world at large. For those who Transcend the physical aspect of Ladakh; this could well be start to a journey of a lifetime!

In the areas closer to Kashmir such as Suru Valley and Kargil, ethnic Ladakhis (or of similar stock) have Embraced Islam. The population is predominately Balti, an area that was part of Baltistan (in Pakistan) till 1947. This group took to Islam around the 15th century and is mostly Shia. Another interesting group inhabiting the Drass region is the Brokpa community. Descendents of Buddhist Dards with links to

Gilgit (in Pakistan), their Features and costume sets them apart.

What to pack

Windcheaters Equip yourself with cottons and woollens in summer. It is advisable to keep thermals, gloves, and a woolen cap and a muffler handy. Khardung La and Pangong will demand woolens even in peak summers. And always dress in layers. Walking Shoes Sanitizer Sunscreen Sunglasses Wide-brimmed Sun Hat Torch Basic medical kit (for scratches and common cold etc.) For a Detailed Checklist see our website (rltgo.com)

Local words and phrases

Introducing oneself: Hello, goodbye, thank you How are you ? I am well What is your name ? My name is Where do you come from? I come from Delhi I understand Do you understand? I do not understand

: Julley : Khamzang le ? : Khamzang in le : Nyerangi ming chi in le ? : Nge ming le : Nyerang kane in le ? : Nga Delhi ne in le : Hago le ! : Hago a : Hamago le

Responsible Travel RLTGo.com.com is committed to promoting a form of travel that is culturally and environmentally responsible. Preserving cultural heritage and conserving natural resources are important cornerstones of our philosophy. Together we can make a difference. Here’s how all of us can work to minimize the ecological impact of our tour group.

Use water judiciously, hot water in particular. Avoid polluting water sources like rivers, lakes etc. Please avoid littering, make sure to reuse water bottles and dispose them appropriately. Use electricity judiciously. Turn lights off and unplug your cell phone, camera etc. on getting recharged. Even a fully recharged gadget uses up electricity.

Ancient Futures: Learning from Ladakh - Helena Norberg-Hodge

A short extract:

“What is Modern? One day, his grandfather gets sick, and Rigzin persuades his parents to bring a Western-trained doctor, recently returned from America. He showers the doctor with questions about We in the Western world. But he is in for a surprise. “In America,” the doctor tells him, “the most modern people eat something they call stone-ground whole meal bread. It’s just like our traditional bread, but there it’s much more expensive than white bread. People over there are building their houses out of natural materials, jus t like ours. It’s usually the poor who live in concrete houses. And the trend is to dress in clothes with labels saying ‘100% natural’ and ‘pure wool.’ The poor people wear polyester clothes. It’s not what I expected at all. So much that is modern in America is similar to traditional Ladakh. In fact, people used to tell me, ‘You’re so lucky to have been born a Ladakhi.’”

A Journey through Ladakh – Andrew Harvey

A short extract: “We call a man a Rinpoche, which means diamond, when he has achieved perfection…We call a man a diamond also when he has gone beyond himself, beyond his old identity and personality. He becomes not just a man, but a woman and a child as well, a Mother and a boy and an old woman and an old man, a Prince and a Yogi, a King and a beggar and a girl. A man who no longer wants to be anything becomes everything; a man who is free of desire and self consciousness enters with love into all things and all people, and all things and people come to him without fear. We call a man a diamond when his heart is a mind and his mind is a heart, when there is no s eparation between the two, when both are illumined.”

Recommended Reading (Books)

RLT Travel Guide (Ladakh)