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STEP AHEAD
Presented By – Abhinay Gupta AD - V
Preface
An industrial orientation was done on leather shoes in red chief. The presentation talks about how a leather shoe is made right from scratch. It involves several processes which cannot be determined when we take a glance at the shoes. There are several secondary processes also like packaging, cleaning, etc. Shoe making is a very tedious task involving an array of processes at each step which requires to be done perfectly in order to achieve best results.The presentation is an insight about its processes.
Rohit Surfactants private limited (RSPL)Started in 1988 Fast - moving consumer goods
Red Chief (1997)
Domestic
LEAYAN GLOBAL PRIVATE LIMITED ( 1995)
Exports
FMCG Footwear Wind Energy Real Estate Dairy Products
RED CHIEF
Tannery & Manufacturing Units
1 Tannery in Unnao 2 Factories in Kanpur 1 Factory in Haridwar E-commerce & store
36 Stores in Uttar Pradesh Madhya Pradesh Deals in Men's Footwear
Main colors, Leathers & Sole colors – Elephant Tan Leathers – Nubuck Soles – PU Black, Brown Oily PVC Rust TPR Tobacco
Logo
Production5000/ day
DERBY SHOE OXFORD SHOE
MOCCAINS
SLIP-ON SHOE
HIGH ANKLE SHOE BOOTS
Vamp
Logo
Quarter
outsole
Eyelet facing
Plug
Tongue Eyelet
Heel Counter
Lining
Collar
Sampling Department
Cutting is done manually
Tin pattern of approved design
Only one side is made
Skiving
Marking & attaching components
Closing
Lasting
When one odd pair is made. They send it to retail department for approval and if it is approved then they make sample for all sizes in even pair
CUTTING DEPARTMENT
Swing arm machine
Also called clicking machineWorks on hydraulic systemBoth hand operatedPoly propylene boardCutting dieLess wastage ( marker planning) For cutting leather components & lining Goat lining, B/C lining, B/C tek lining
Travelling head machine
Works on hydraulic systemOperated with both hands32mm or 52mm die is usedFor cutting In-sole, toe puff, foamIn-sole ( leather board )Toe puff or stiffener ( cellulose rubber board thickness 1.2mm )Padding foam 20mm, 5mmEva ( ethylene- vinyl acetate) foam 1.5mm, 4mm
Fabric cutting machine
Straight blade fabric cutting is usedFor cutting vamp cloth, mesh fabric & sugar coated cloth
Cutting Die
A. Single Edge Die
B. Double Edge Die
Size
19 mm For Goat Leather , Sheep Leather & Lining 32 mm For Thick Leathers
52 mm For Foam
A
B
Skiving
Folding Skive ( 11-12 mm )
Raw Edge Skive( 35 Degree & 2/3 Thickness)
Underlay Skive ( 08-10 mm )
Splitting & Fusing
Thickness is reducedWhole leather skin
Sugar coated drill cloth Sugar coated cloth
CLOSING DEPARTMENT
Marking
Marking Marking & Component Attaching
Crayon markingColor is selected according to leather colorMarking pattern is made of PVC ( Polyvinyl chloride ) sheet
Neoprene ( dendrite ) & Latex rubber solution a Hand hammer
Stitching & Stiffener Attaching
Flat bed double needle stitching machine Post bed stitching machineZigzag stitching machine Threads 3PLY ( needle no- 14,16,18 ) 6PLY ( needle no- 19-21 ) 9PLY ( needle no- 21,22 )12PLY( needle no- 24,25 )HS31 ( needle no- 24 )Stiffener inserting
Thread Burning & Upper Quality Check
Thread Burning & Upper Checking
Burn extra threads from upperIt’s a kind of blower Upper quality is checkedThey see stitch lines
LASTING DEPARTMENT
Counter Molding
Stiffener is insertedMachine has aluminum lastUpper is fixed2 pairs of pincers are just placed below the mold
Forepart Lasting
Last is set on the machinepincers engage and grip the entire fore part of the upperNo creases at the feather edge.Lasting allowances are flat to the insoleUpper stucked to the insole firmly.Proper position of vamp on the last
Seat & Side Lasting
Hot melt cement is deposited on the unlasted waist of the insoleBack height to be correctBack seam is placed centrally,upright and straightSeat and quarter portions are molded nicelyNo crease at the feather edge.Top line correctly balanced
Wrinkle Chasing
Roughing or Scoring
Steel wire wheel Brass wire wheel Scouring paper
Wrinkle chasing is done through electric heatersIts is done for giving smooth surface
Sole Attaching
PU ( polyurethane) adhesive is usedHeat setting
Sole Pressing
Sole is pressed manually on the last Then they keep it in sole pressing machine After that they send it to cooling chamber
Removing last & Finishing
Finishing is done through buffing machineCrape is used to remove extra adhesive & marking lines PolishingPackaging
Conclusion
After doing the industrial orientation I have understood the basics of shoe making. This orientation really helped in terms of gaining knowledge and exposure.I really enjoyed my work there and also learned as how relations are maintained in a professional world.I would like to thank my faculties and everyone else who helped me to do my orientation succesfully.
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