LAWN CARE BASICS · •Know your Soil •Measure to save time and money ... •Water to settle soil...

LAWN CARE BASICSKAREN CARTER

HENRICO EXTENSION OFFICE

Turfgrass Adaptation Zones

Virginia is in the Transition Zone

Grasses for Henrico County

Cool Season Warm Season

Tall Fescue Fine Fescue Bermuda Zoysia

Sun-Some Shade

Doesn’t spread

Some Shade

Dry areas

Low pH & N

Full sun only

Spreads

Tolerates lower fertility

Some shade

Slow to grow

Spreads

Tolerates low fertility

Disease: M Disease: H Disease: L Disease: L

Heat Tolerant Not Heat Tolerant

Heat and Drought Tolerant

Heat andDrought Tolerant

LAWN MAINTENANCEBest Management Practices

• Get a soil test

• Measure for accuracy

• Apply lime if needed

• Fertilize properly

• Mow properly

• Water well . . . or don’t water at all!

• Core aerate each year

• Use integrated pest management

• Know your Soil

• Measure to save time and money

• Aerate those roots

• Be Right about Fertilizer

• Practice Trouble-free maintenance

SMART Steps to a Healthy Lawn

SMART Step One

Know Your Soil

Soil Testing

• Will provide information about

– pH

– P and K, Ca and Mg, some micros

• Will provide recommendations about

– lime applications

– fertilizer types and rates

• Recommended every two to four years

Soil Test Box

and Form

Test every 2 to 3 years

Accurate Soil Testing

• Requires a representative sample

• Sample from 10+ areas

• Sample to 4-6 inch depth

• Mix soil together

• Place 1 cup of mix in soil sample box

• Send to Soil Testing Lab

Virginia Test Soil Test Report

SMART Step Two

Measure to Save Time and Money

Measure smaller areas and add up for total lawn area.

Measuring Lawn Areas

SMART Step Three

Aerate Those Roots

• Relieves soil compaction.

• Allows oxygen, water and nutrients to reach the root system.

• Good soil moisture is important.

• Fall for cool-season turf.

Core Aeration

SMART Step Four

Be Right About Fertilizer

Right Analysis

Right Rate

Right Time

Which One is Right for Your Lawn?

Many Choices

Fertilizer Analysis

18 - 24 - 6

Total Nitrogen………..…………..…..… 18 %5.6% WIN (Water Insoluble Nitrogen)

Available Phosphoric acid (P2O5)… 24 %

Sulfate of Potash (K2O)...…………….. 6 %

Virginia Test Soil Test Report

Lawn Fertilizer Choices

Winterizer For More K

StarterFor More P

MaintenanceFor Mostly N

High 1st number High 2nd number High 3rd number

SMART Lawns Fertilizer Calculator

http://henrico.us/extension/anr/lawns/fertcalc/

September

October

November

Timing of Fertilizer Applications for Cool Season Grasses

SMART Step Five

Practice Trouble-free

Maintenance

Mowing

Watering

Weed Control

Measuring Mower Height

Keep mower blades sharp!

Set at 3 inches for tall fescue

One-Third Rule

• Mow frequently enough so that no more than one-third of grass blade is removed each time.

Don’t Bag the Clippings!

(Unless there’s a good reason)

• Avoid light, frequent irrigations

• Turf needs 1 inch of water per week

• Calibrate your irrigation system

• Water early in the day, not late

• Use the “screwdriver test”

Watering “All or Nothing”

A Simple Weed Management Plan

• Mid-March

• Apply a crabgrass preventer

• Repeat for season-long control

• April and May

• Spot-spray broadleaf weed killer for summer weeds

• October and November

• Spot-spray broadleaf weed killer for winter weeds

• Cars must have current tags and inspections

• Trailers must be in side or rear yards

Henrico County Code Requirements

• Grass must be less than 12 inches tall

Henrico County Code RequirementsProhibited:

“storage or accumulation of trash, garbage, refuse, litter, and other substances…”

“Litter must be kept in watertight containers”

To report a violation call 501-4757

orwww.henrico.us/revit

LANDSCAPE TREES AND SHRUBS: SELECTION, INSTALLATION AND MAINTENANCE

Choosing the Right Plants

Matching the right trees and shrubs to your site is the most important aspect of plant selection.

A plant that is not suited to its planting site will perform poorly, require more maintenance, and ultimately die before its time.

Getting started

• See what plants are growing in the area

• Visit a local garden and nurseries

• Use books or web programs

Site Evaluation

Assess site properties that affect plant growth before choosing a species to plant.

Choosing the Right Plants

Cultural Requirements

How much Light does the site receive?

Full sun

Shade

What type of Soil are you planting in?

Sandy

Loam

Clay

☼ Full sun: at least 6 hrs. of direct light (most large trees)

☼ Partial sun: 3 – 6 hrs. direct sun (some small trees)

☼ Shade: less than 3 hrs.

Sunlight reflects from glass and white walls, often exposing trees to intense heat when located near buildings.

Light Exposure

Cultural Requirements

Is the plant Hardy in your area?

Central VA = Zone 7

Is the tree tolerant of Pests common to the area?

Cultural Requirements

Is the area susceptible to Water problems?

Drought

Flood

Ideal Soil Drainage

2” per hour

1”– 3” okay

4” or more too fast

“Perk” test

Space / Site Restrictions

How much space is available?

Would the tree affect buildings, sidewalks, or driveways?

Are there any utilities near?

Overhead wires

Underground pipes, wires

Miss Utility

Overhead Wires

• Utility companies and their customers pay over 1 billion dollars each year to trim trees away from power lines.

• Trees are involved in approximately 30 percent of all power outages.

Consider Desired Features

Shade

Screen / Windbreak

Ornamental / AccentFlower

Fruit

Foliage

Be sure to consider the Mature size of your tree or shrub

Mature size

Small (< 30 ft. at mature height)

- Ornamental features: showy flowers, fruit, foliage, or bark

- Nice as specimen plant near deck or patio

- Good for small soil spaces

Large (> 50 ft. at mature height)

- Provide shade

- Can reduce air conditioning bills when placed properly

Deciduous vs. Evergreen

Evergreens - Conifers

Deciduous

Evergreens - Broad Leaved

Growth rate and wood strength

Fast growing species can (but not always) have brittle wood that is susceptible to breakage.

Ornamental traits

After evaluating the site and coming up with a list of trees that can thrive in those conditions, now comes the fun part!

Selecting Landscape Plants

Publication Title Pub Number

Rare and Unusual Trees 426-604

Conifers 426-605

Broad-Leaved Evergreens 426-607

Groundcovers 426-609

Shade Trees 426-610

Flowering Trees 426-611

Trees for Hot Sites 430-024

Showy Flowering Shrubs HORT-84P

www.ext.vt.edu

Planting Trees and Shrubs

Nothing is as important to the successful growth of a new landscape plant as is the planting process and the first year’s care.

There is a lot of truth to the old

saying that it is better to plant a

$50 tree in a $100 hole than a

$100 tree in a $50 hole.

Types of Nursery Stock and Planting Times

• Balled and Burlapped (B&B)

– Fall/Winter/Spring

• Container Grown

– All year

• Bare Root

– Fall/Spring

Ten Steps to Proper Planting

1. Look up for wires, lights, etc.

2. Handle the tree by the root ball, not the trunk.

3. Find the top-most root and measure root ball depth.

4. Dig wide/shallow planting hole

5. Treat root defects.

6. Carefully place tree in hole and check position of top-most root.

7. Remove burlap from trunk & top of root ball.

8. Add backfill soil and firm.

9. Add mulch to 2-inch depth.

10. Stake and prune if needed.

1. Look up!

This is your last chance to be

sure you have selected the right

tree for the right place.

If there is a wire, security light, or

building nearby:

Plant elsewhere, or

Plant a small-maturing tree

2. Handle By Root Ball, Not Trunk

No matter if large or small,Handle a tree, not by the trunk,But by the root ball!

3. Find the top-most root

The point where the top-most root meets the trunk of the tree should be no more than 2 inches deep in the root ball.

4. Wide, Shallow Planting Hole

• Determine the planting hole size.

– 2-3 times the root ball

• Sides of hole should

taper, but don’t glaze.

• Root ball should rest on solid soil.

4. Depth of Planting Hole

Measure the distance between the top most root and the bottom of the root ball.

Dig the hole no deeper than this measurement, or even a couple of inches shallower, especially if drainage is a concern..

5. Treat Root Defects

Cut or spread out any circling or kinked roots.

Remove potentially girdling roots.

6. Set Tree in the Planting Hole and Check Depth

TOO DEEP! – remove and add soil to bottom of hole

7. Remove Burlap

At a minimum, the burlap should be removed from the trunk and the top of the root ball.

8. Add Backfill Soil and Firm

• Loosely replace backfill about half-way.

• Water to settle soil around roots.

• Repeat with remaining backfill soil.

Watering

• During the first growing

season, trees should be

watered at least once a

week in the absence of

rain; more often during

the height of the

summer.

• Make sure water soaks

into the entire root ball

AND the surrounding

soil.

9. MulchingA thin layer of mulch (2” to 3”)

applied as broadly as practical,

can improve the soil, structure,

oxygen level, temperature and

moisture availability where the

roots grow.

Trees, Turf, and Mulch

• If turfgrass grows up to

the trunk, trees often

perform poorly.

• Turf and weeds rob

trees of moisture and

nutrients and some

produce chemicals that

inhibit tree growth.

• Lawn mowing equipment

damages trunk.

10. Staking

• Trees should be able to sway with the wind. This helps the tree develop strong wood.

• However, if the tree sways too much, or falls over, then it needs to be staked!

Prune To Finish The Job

1. Dead branches2. Diseased branches3. Damaged or broken

branches4. Branches that rub

together5. Branches growing toward

center6. Water sprouts & suckers7. Lower branches in way of

mowing

Pruning Larger Limbs

Flush cutting branch back to trunk is incorrect, it wounds the trunk and causes decay. Make the cut along branch collar.

Locating the Branch Collar

Make pruning cut outside of branch collar (Line 1) so the wound will callus and “seal” as in photos above.

Hand Pruners

• Two types of pruners

– Bypass

– Anvil

• For cutting up to ¾” in diameter

Bypass Pruners

Anvil Pruners

When to Prune? The General Rule

• Late winter, early spring is best for most pruning– This leaves fresh wounds exposed only for short

time before new growth begins

– It’s easier to make pruning decisions without leaves obscuring structure

• Trees and shrubs that bloom on current season’s wood

• Trees and shrubs grown for foliage

When to Prune? The Exception

• Prune following early blooming trees and shrubs immediately after blooming

– Azaleas and Rhododendron

– Forsythia

– Japanese quince

– Star Magnolia

– Viburnums

• Bloom on previous seasons’ wood

Making the Cut

• Pruning cuts should be made about ¼” cut above a bud and at a 45o angle.

• Prune to an outward-facing bud to force new growth in the desired direction.

Heading Back vs. Thinning

Heading Back-

Shortening

branches by cutting

to a bud or lateral

branch

Thinning-

Complete removal

of entire branches

back to a main

branch, to the trunk

or to the soil line.

Selective Pruning Before and After

Don’t Top Trees!

Crape “Murder”

Properly Pruning Crape Myrtles