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1.Ceramic Mosaic Tile Trivet
Materials:
Scrap pieces of ceramic tile
Plastic lid (a coffee can lid works well for a trivet, while potato crisp
can lids or peanut container lids work well for coasters)
Tile grout
Mat or towel to cover the work surfaceHeavy paper or cloth bag
Hammer
Piece of felt
Scissors
Craft glue
Steps:
If you have any leftover ceramic tiles from a recent home remodeling
project, you can use them to create an interesting set of trivets or
coasters. All you need is scrap pieces of tile, a plastic lid, a piece of felt,
and some tile grout.
Step 1: Start by breaking the tiles up into small irregularly shaped pieces.
To do this, place the tiles in a strong bag, tie securely, and hit with a
hammer. Be sure to wear plastic goggles or other eye protection, and
only hammer the tiles on a surface that cannot be damaged. You don't
want to completely crush the tiles, just break them into smaller pieces.
Step 2: Trace a circle shape onto the felt using the plastic lid as a
pattern, and cut out.
Step 3: Place the plastic lid upside down on the work table. Then, using
the broken tile pieces, fit them into the shape of the lid, using different
colors and shapes to create an interesting pattern. You can keep
rearranging the pieces until you find an arrangement that you like. If you
are trying to create a matching set of coasters, you might want to do
this step for all the coasters at the same time.
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Step 4: Once you have a pattern you like, use craft glue to affix each
tile piece to the inside of the plastic lid. Allow to dry completely.
Step 5: After the glue has dried and the tile pieces are firmly attached
to the plastic lid, you can mix up the grout according to package
directions. Again, following the directions on the package, spread the
grout on top of the tile pieces, working it down into the spaces betweenthe tiles. You can use a sturdy piece of cardboard for this step, or a
small tile float. Try to keep the grout contained inside the plastic lid,
wiping the outside edges of the lid if any grout gets on the plastic edge.
Step 6: Allow the grout to dry according to package directions. Then,
using a damp sponge or rag, wipe off as instructed to reveal the surface
of the tiles. Take care not to wipe so hard that you remove the grout
from the cracks between the tiles.
Step 7: Again, following package instructions, let the grout dry, thenwipe off any surface haze with a rag.
Step 8: When the trivet or coaster is completely dry, carefully flip it
upside down and use craft glue to attach a circle of felt to the bottom.
This will protect the furniture from any possible scratches when the
coasters or trivet is used. The felt will also help to provide additional
traction so that it doesn't slip and slide on the table or countertop
surface.
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The scoring helps to give more purchase for sticking the pieces on, and
the priming helps stop the adhesive or the grout from drying too quickly
(which can weaken it). I've measured out and pre-drilled the holes for
the screws that will fix the number to a wall, and sketched an outline of
the numbers. Ready to roll!!
Step two
Having cut a selection of pieces to the size and shapes I want, I'm using
a waterproof PVA (white craft glue) to stick them to the board.
The edge of a saucer gives an extra curve effect to the rounded sides
of the number plate.
When working with very small pieces, as here, a pair of tweezers is really
useful for dipping them into the glue and placing them precisely.
Step three
Ready for grouting. To make the design more interesting I've included
some pieces of willow pattern border, a few chips of mirror and some of
the maker's mark (a crown and some lettering) from the light green
saucer.
The glue takes several hours to dry and is best left overnight,
particularly if the shards are not all flat - which tends to be the case
with crockery.
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step four
I'm using white cement-based grout. Cement is very caustic so you need
to wear gloves. Mix the powder with water to a creamy consistency,
then spread it on, forcing it down into all the gaps with your fingers.
The cut surfaces of the shards are very absorbent, drawing water out of
the grout, so you need to work fast and thoroughly. You can read moreabout groutingin the mermaid project.
step five
As the grout dries on the surface of the shards, brush it off with an old
toothbrush. Work inwards from the edge, taking care not to dislodge
grout from between the pieces of crockery. Cleaning off grout at this
stage will save a lot of work later, although set grout can be cleaned off
with sandpaper.
Allow the grout to set overnight, but don't put it in a warm place asslow drying will give the piece more strength. Go over it again with a
brush and then a soft cloth to remove the remaining haze and dust of
grout.
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3.How to make a mosaic planter
The starting point here is a terracotta planter and a collection of
broken crockery. The planter will be used indoors and is varnished on
the inside. For the porous outside of the pot I've applied some dilutedPVA (white craft) glue to reduce the amount of water which the
terracotta will draw from the adhesive and grout. I've started to snip up
the crockery using tile nippers, but there's more work to be done. The
smaller the pieces, the more snug they will fit to the curved surface, but
for this design I'd like to keep the shards as large as I can.
Now the shards are at the right sort of size. I've measured the surface
area of the planter and laid out the shards to make sure I've got enough.
On a plastic sheet I've put a pile of grey cement-based grout powder,which I'm going to use as the adhesive. Always take great care when
using cement-based products.
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Wearing rubber gloves I put a blob of the grout in the cavity of each
curved shard and press it onto the planter. Usually the grout will have
enough "grab" to allow you to work steadily round an object like this
without the shards falling off. However, if they are slipping you'll have
to wait while they set. Be careful, too, that they are secure before youturn the pot to rest on areas you've already mosaicked. When the whole
planter is covered, allow the cement to set thoroughly. However, if you
can remove any grout which is on the surface of the shards at this
stage, life is easier later. It's good to let cement set slowly, so covering
the work in a plastic bag will help.
Finally, grout the pot with more of the same cement-based mix.
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4.How to mosaic a Bowling Ball
Materials List:
Bowling BallExterior Grade Thin set
Grout
Tiles pieces, plates, shells, beads
Latex gloves
Vinegar
Rags, old containers for water, sponges
Instructions
You want to begin by roughing up the surface of your bowling ball
so that the slurry of thin set will stick well. There are a number of
ways to do this.
Rub your thin set mixture over the whole ball. Let dry and repeat
one to three times.
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Score the ball with a knife or tool, and then apply thin set.
Use a spray adhesive glue and spray the entire surface of the ball,
then roll in a gritty sand mixture.
Use gloves when applying the thin set, which is extremely drying to
the skin.
Anytime your work is outdoors you want to use exterior grade
products.
After your ball is dry, draw on your design or just begin creating an
abstract design. Use the same thin set to glue on your tile pieces.
You'll have to work in sections, because the ball is round. Each
area needs to dry so that the pieces won't fall off and so that you
can turn the ball over and work on the opposite side.
After the entire ball is covered, let dry 24 hours. Then grout.
Mix your grout with water until it is the texture of pancake mix. It
shouldn't be drippy and shouldn't be too stiff either. Push the
grout into the crevasses firmly. Cover the entire ball with the
mixture. Let stand for about 10 to 15 minutes.
Get some containers, fill with water, and grab some sponges.
Dip your sponge in water and squeeze out excess water. Begin
wiping off the grout you put on. This will take a couple of times.
Wipe off, let dry 15-20 minutes. Wipe off, let dry. When all the grout
is removed, finish up by cleaning with a rag any remaining grout
residue with vinegar.
There are unlimited ways that you can display your orb. I use gazing
ball stands, make my own creations, use primitive items, such as
metal and terra cotta piping, almost anything that you feel is
attractive. You want to enhance your work, not take away from it.
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5. How to Paint Ceramics
Instructions:
1 .Choose the ceramic piece you want to paint. You can use one thatyou have made and fired yourself or you can buy an unpainted ceramic.
2. Rinse the ceramic under cold water to remove dust that can affect
your paint. Allow to air dry for three minutes. If you dry it with a cloth
you can leave lint on it. You can begin painting even it feels moist.
3. Draw the design that you wish to paint on your ceramic using a pencil.
The pencil marks will disappear after the ceramic has been fired in a
kiln. You will experience fewer mistakes if you have the design drawn onbefore you begin painting.
4.Buy a paint that has been designed for ceramics so that you will get a
long lasting quality paint job. If your ceramic piece will be placed
outdoors use paint designed for outdoor ceramics to prevent fading.
5. Paint the ceramic with an underglaze. Allow the underglaze to dry
before you paint your ceramic in your desired color, if you want an
opaque look use three coats of paint.
6.Fire your ceramic in a kiln to give it a glazed look. If you don't own your
own kiln you can take your ceramic piece to a ceramic store and they will
fire it for you.
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6. How to make a sculpture
Materials:
Bag of clay
This is how the clay arrives. It's great if the bag is intact
and the clay is still soft and malleable. It must be kept
damp or it will be unworkable and crack. As soon as I
begin work it has to stay mostly covered to prevent drying
out.
Wodges of clay
As soon as the clay comes out of the bag it needs to be
rolled and pummelled to make it fresh, elastic and
workable. I do this simply by giving each hand-sized wodge
a good squeeze, then I make a pile and wonder how to
make a sculpture with these wodges.
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Instructions :
The sculpture begins
From the wodges I tend to make very simple sausages and
form them into a doll shape - very simply. Here, the torso
and legs have begun and I need to decide where to put the
arms. This is fun! They could go anywhere... anything could
go anywhere!
The arms are in place
Now the clay must be left to dry a little so that it has a bit
more strength. Any part can still easily be moved because
there is no armature (a metal frame used inside the clay,
which is how to make a sculpture stronger) to get in the
way. As soon as it has firmed up, I'll be able to decide
what to do next and whether any big changes are needed.
Back - the arms and legs are on
Now the limbs are roughly attached in an approximate
position. The clay is very soft and needs to settle and
toughen up before more work can be done.
Filling and rounding the larger forms
I am feeling ok about where the various parts are. Drawing
a line along the centre of the figure is how to make a
sculpture feel balanced. I can wait till later to decide what
the small forms like hands, face and breasts should be
doing.
Back - filling out
I reposition the sausages a bit and fill out the forms with
more clay. The head needs repositioning and I do this by
adding and taking away rather than pushing. The centre
line helps me position the arms correctly.
Back - the forms are coming on
The shapes read quite well and the limbs have the right
amount of weight. The head is resting on the arm, which in
turn is resting on the foot. The whole thing needs pulling
together though, and only when I've done this will I know
if the sculpture is ok or not.
Back - final details
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I add the hair and experiment with it. Eventually I settle
on a line which nearly follows the arm movement. The
serrations on the hair need to be crisp to make a contrast.
Now the other forms need to be honed to make them as
round as I want them to be and I need to work carefully
on the small forms until they are finished.
It's finished
The larger forms are set off now by the smaller, detailed
ones. I added the breasts last - like a punctuation mark.
The face is hard to get right. I don't want it to look either
pretty or ugly, I just want it to be there. I check that the
surface doesn't clash with the form and then allow the
sculpture to dry out - slowly - before it is fired. And that's
how to make a sculpture in ceramic!
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7. How to Paint on Glazed Ceramic
Materials:
glazed ceramics
soapy waterscrub brush
towel
ceramic crafts
oven
oven gloves
Instructions:
Clean the glazed ceramic in the soapy water, use the scrub brush to rid
some dirt.Dry the ceramic by the towel.
Paint the glazed ceramic with a paintbrush, using the craft paints. Craft
paints will bond to the ceramic, unlike all other paints. Let the painted
ceramic dry thoroughly
Preheat the oven to 220 degrees F. Place the dry ceramic in the center
of the oven for 40 minutes. Remove the ceramic with oven gloves
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8. How to Make Jewellery With Ceramic Tiles
Materials:
ceramic tilesmall hardwood shape
tile nipper
white glue ang grout
coarse sand paper
protective face mask, goggles and gloves
drill
pencil
wood paint
jewerly hardware
Instructions:
Use the pencil to draw the shapes and pieces of your jewerly on the
back of your tile.
Use the tile nippers to cut out the shape of your choice. Make sure to
wear the protective materials for your safety while doing this. You can
also use the hammer in breaking the tiles and just choose the shape you
want for your jewerly.
Drill a tiny hole at the top of the small hardwood shape that you will use
as the backing of your tile. This hole will be used in attaching jewerlyhardware. Sand the surface thoroughly.
Place the ceramic piece on the wood backing and decide the angle and
position that you like.
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9. Mosaic Flower Pot Planter
Materials:
Terra cotta flower pot
Old broken dishes (dishes from yard sales are great and cheap)
Paint to match dish patternTile grout
Old dish towel
Plant in a plastic pot to fit inside your new planter
Hammer
Strong household glue
Mosaic Flower Pot
Instructions:
First, the fun part - take your dish, wrap it in the dish towel, and take
the hammer to it! Break the dish with the side of the hammer, then
check to see if the shapes are what you want and the flowers or
patterns are showing; you want pieces that are not too small or two
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large. Being careful not to cut yourself, take one piece at a time and
place your pieces in a bowl. Now glue the back of each piece and place
onto the top, in separated areas - you must make sure the pieces do not
touch so you can apply the grout. Let dry fully so that when you put on
the grout the pieces wont fall off.
When dry, place your grout all over. Try to keep it off the glass - but youare sure to get some of it on. If so, let dry about 5 minutes and whip off
with a damp towel. Make sure you get all the grout off the glass.
Let your flower pot dry.
I painted the top of the flower pot as shown and I painted the design of
the plate on the top.
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10. Stained Glass Mosaic Tray
Materials:
Wood Tray
Stained Glass or any glass pieces of your choiceGesso or Wood Sealer
Gloss Varnish
Household Goop or E6000 Glue
Tile Grout
Acrylic Paint (White and Yellow)
Sandpaper 220 Grit and 600 Grit
Crumble Resistant Sponge
Foam Paintbrush
Stained Glass Mosaic Tray
Craft Project Instructions:
Begin by sanding your tray with 220 sandpaper to a clean smooth finish
and apply one coat of gesso to entire tray with the exception of the
bottom inside where you will be placing your glass pieces.
Lay your stained glass along the inside bottom of tray to cover entire
surface (you can begin without first placing your pieces, but if you're
new at this, lay them out first).
Now that you're happy with your pattern, begin to glue your pieces of
glass in place. You don't need a lot of glue on each piece, just enough to
hold the piece in place. Once you have finished gluing all your pieces in
place, prepare your grout mixture as instructed on the package. If you
are using ready mixed grout, add a little water (a few drops at a time) to
make spreading the grout easier.
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Once your pieces are secure and no longer move (this takes less than an
hour), spread your grout over the entire top of the glass and gently press
the grout into all the seams, making sure there are no air pockets below
the grout.
Allow tray to sit for about 10 minutes, do not wait longer or you willhave a much more difficult time removing the excess grout.
With a damp sponge, gently wipe away any excess grout from the
surface, rinsing your sponge constantly. Be sure to wipe away any grout
that has made its way onto the wood surface. Wipe all grout from glass
now, as you will have a terrible time trying to remove it if you wait until
later.
Allow your grout to dry overnight without disturbing it. Now, just paint
your tray with a couple of coats of paint. I used white on the inside asthis colour improves the appearance of the mosaics and yellow on the
outside.
Allow each coat of paint to dry completely before applying the next and
finish your tray off with a final coat of gloss varnish. Using gloss varnish
rather than semi-gloss or matte is much prettier as the glass has the high
gloss finish and will reflect off of the gloss paint finish.
Finally, to help protect your grout from staining use a grout sealer
(available at home improvement centers), following manufacturer'sinstructions.
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11. Mosaic Clay Saucer Coasters
Materials:
Clay Saucer (I used 5 inch saucers)
Stained Glass or any glass pieces of choiceCork
Household Goop or E6000 Glue
Tile Grout
Patio Paint, colours of choice
Crumble Resistant Sponge
Paint brush
Grout Sealer (optional)
Craft Project Instructions:
Paint your saucer (do not paint the bottom inside of the saucer, where
you will lay your mosaics). Allow the paint to dry completely before
proceeding to the next step.
Lay the stained glass pieces along the inside bottom of the saucer, to
cover the entire surface (you can begin without first placing your
pieces, but if this is a new technique for you, it helps to practice the
placement a bit first.).
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When you are happy with the pattern, begin gluing the pieces of glass
into place. You don't need much glue on each piece, just enough to hold
the piece in place. Once you have finished gluing all pieces, prepare the
grout mixture as instructed on package. If you are using ready mixed
grout, add a little water (drops at a time) to make spreading the grout
easier.
Once your glass pieces are secure and no longer move (this should take
less than hour), spread grout over the entire top of the glass and gently
press the grout into all the seams, making sure there are no air pockets
below the grout. Allow this to sit for about 10 minutes, but don't wait
any longer or it will be more difficult to remove the excess grout.
With a damp sponge, gently wipe away any excess grout from the
surface, rinsing your sponge constantly. Be sure to wipe away any grout
that has made it onto the painted surface (you may need to touch upthe painted edge a little once the grout has dried). Wipe all grout from
glass now, as you will have a terrible time trying to remove it later.
Allow grout to dry overnight without disturbing it. To help protect your
grout from staining use a grout sealer (available at home improvement
centers), following manufacturer's instructions. If you would like a little
extra protection for your paint surface, coat with an exterior non-
yellowing varnish. Finally glue a cork coaster to the bottom of each
saucer to help protect any surface you may place these on.
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12. How to Make Mosaic Paintings
Materials:
Tiles
Plastic zipper bag
Hammer
Cardboard
Utility knifePencil
Paint
Paintbrush
Ceramic tile grout
Wet sponge
1. Place one tile at a time inside a plastic zipper bag and seal shut.
2. Smack the tile gently with the hammer until it breaks in to smaller
pieces.
Note: If you pound the tile hard, the tile will shatter and you won't beable to use most of it.
3. Cut out a rectangle from a thick piece of cardboard. Parents and
teachers can use a utility knife to do this. Make the rectangle the size
you want your painting to be.
4. Draw an outline of the painting you want to create on the cardboard
rectangle. Don't worry about the pencil marks because no one will see
them when you finish with your painting
5. Paint each individual tile with the colors needed to make up your
painting. For example, if your painting includes sunshine during the
bright of day, you would paint some tiles yellow and others blue.6. Spread ceramic tile grout inside the outline on your cardboard one
section at a time, and then place the tiles on the grout. Make sure the
tiles are close together, but not touching. Do this only after the paint
has dried.
7. Spread more grout in between the tiles once the entire outline has
been completed.
8. Wipe excess grout off of the tiles with a wet sponge. Wait for the
grout to dry before hanging your painting.
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13. Ceramic Bead Necklaces and Bracelets
Materials:
Tape measure
Nylon beading wire
Crimp beadsCrimping tool
Jewelry clasps
Ceramic beads
Headpins
Needle nose pliers
Wire cutter
1. Measure an existing necklace or bracelet to determine the length ofthe finished ceramic bead necklace or bracelet with the tape
measure. Cut the nylon beading wire to 4 inches longer than the
measurement.2.Thread one crimp bead on one end of the beading wire.3. Insert one end of the beading wire into the hole in one half of the
jewelry clasp. Fold the wire 1 inch over the clasp hole.
4.Push the tip of the folded wire into the crimp bead. Press the crimpbead with the crimping tool firmly to secure the clasp
5.Thread the ceramic beads on the wire to the desired length, leavingroom for the opposite end of the clasp.
6. Thread a crimp bead on the beading wire.7.Thread the wire through the hole on the other half of the clasp.
Push the end of the wire through the crimp bead and press with thecrimping tool.
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14. Ceramic Bead Earrings
Materials:
Tape measure
Nylon beading wire
Crimp beadsCrimping tool
Jewelry clasps
Ceramic beads
Headpins
Needle nose pliers
Wire cutter
Earing wire
Instructions:
Push a headpin through a ceramic bead hole.
2
Cut the excess headpin off with the wire cutters, leaving 1/2 inch of
wire exposed at the top of the bead.
3
Twist the exposed headpin with the tip of the needle nose pliers to form
a circle.
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15. Ceramic cell phone holder
Materials:
clay
clay board
cutter
ruller
plastic
Instructions:
Begin:
Place a piece of canvas on the 1/4" depth side of the clay board.. Place a
1 inch slice of clay and center it on the board.
Roll the clay until you have obtained the thickness of the side boards.
Cover this piece with a sheet of plastic wrap,
and set aside. It is your bottom.
The side walls are created from a 2" thick slab
of clay.
With the heel of you hand, flatten the slab
slightly to widen it, before rolling.
Once your clay has been rolled to the 1/4 inch side board thickness.
Choose a Texture Mat.. There are over 50 designs.. I like the pebble
texture for this project, but you choose !
After placing the mat over the clay, turn your board. The roller
should not be resting on the side bars.
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Begin with the side closest to you and press and roll just once, to
impress your texture
Peel the mat
from the clay
surface
Using a Potters Needle tool mark a width of about 2 1/2 to 3 inches
from the right side of your textured slab.
Slice the slab using the needle tool.
Peel away the trim, and place it in a
plastic bag, to be re-worked.
Move the base slab back into your work area and remove the plastic.
Remove the 3" wide textured slice, and wrap it into an oval in the
upright position on the base slab over lapping in the front.
Pressure in added to make sure the clay edge is well seated onto the
base slab.
Note: If you have allowed time for your cut edge to begin to heal, you
will need to do the score and slip attachment at this point. But if you
have moved quickly there is ample moisture in the cut to marry the side
walls to the base
Using the potters needle tool, trim the base to
the edge of you side walls.
Using a palette knife and working upward from the bottom,
marry the clay base into the side walls.
To re-detail the bottom edge, use the flexible mat in an uprightposition, and two or three fingers on the inside for support and
pressure.
Begin working around the bottom pressing the mat into the clay, while
keeping your fingers inside for support.
Don't be concerned with matching the texture.. the pebbles blend
nicely together.
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At this point.. the basics are accomplished... and your ideas and desires
begin.
You can alter the top edge by trimming.. note the photo at the
beginning of this article. Lower on one side to give the piece some
motion.. But you choose !
I finished off the top edge with a fluting, but you might leave yours as
is.. or do a pinched edge finish.
Don't forget to place the opening in the back to insert the end of the
cell phone charger.. Your cell phone sitter makes a nice charging station
too !
Using you needle tool makes this job easy.. Be sure to start your opening
1/4 inch from the bottom to retain the base.
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