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TIBET: KAMA CHU AND KHARTA VALLEY TREK AND FRIENDSHIP HIGHWAY TIBET May, 2019
PART 3 BY WILLIAM D BOEHM
Yarlung Tsangpo (Brahmaputra) River that flows 3000km (1800 mi) from near Mt Kailish through the deepest
canyon in the world, 5300m (17000 ft) below Namcha Barwha 7,782-meter/25,446 ft into the Indian Ganges
DAY 4 May 16 We loaded our gear and food for the week khama valley trek on a government
bus, interestingly in that it had four fisheye cameras in the front to monitor our conversations
and actions. We left Lhasa driving highway G 318, the 830 km (500 mi) long Friendship Highway.
We would drive today only partway 270 km (162 mi) to Gyantse to the south. Passed through
incredible mountain scenery first driving along the Kyichu Valley and the Lhasa River for an hour
before the town of Quxu. Here the Lhasa joins the huge Yarlong Tsampo (Brahmaputra) River.
Here we crossed at a narrowing on a bridge and followed along its huge floodplain for an hour
before turning off the friendship highway south. The Yarlung Tsangpo begins to the east along
its 3,000 kilometer (1,800 mile) course through open valleys on the Tibetan Plateau. With
headwaters in western Tibet near
Mount Kailash, the river has the
highest average elevation 4000
meters (13,000 feet) of any major
river in the world. At the eastern
end of the Himalayas in
southeastern Tibet, the river
bends sharply south, cascading
through one of most dramatic
gorges in the world before
Left Yarlong Tsangpo River before
canyon, Namcha Barwa Peak 7782 m
descending into the lowlands of the Ganges Delta.
The Yarlung Tsangpo gorge is defined by superlatives, and has been called the “Everest of
Rivers” as lower sections running through the canyon below Namche Barwha are the deepest in
the world, and least explored. Carved into granitic bedrock, it reaches more than 5,300 meters
(17,000 feet) from top to bottom in some places, making it three times deeper than the Grand
Canyon. It’s also one of the world’s longest canyons, stretching more than 500 kilometers (300
miles) between two major peaks: the 7,782-
meter (25,446-foot) Namcha Barwa and the
7,294-meter (23,462-foot) Gyala Peri, and
drops 2716 m (9000 feet) in 250 km (150
miles).
RT: tourists & Tibetan mastiff dogs Khamba la pass
We drove towards Yamdrok Tso (lake) on to
S307 ascending the steep road to Khamba La
(Khamba Pass) at 4900m (16,072 ft). Once at
summit at 4790m (15,711 ft) we finally
viewed the amazing turquoise blue Yamdrok Tso or Turquoise Lake at an elevation of 4450 m
(14,596 ft), the sixth largest lake in Tibet by area. To the south the snow-capped peaks including
a partially hidden view of glaciated Nojin Kangtsang 7191 m (23,593 ft) of the main Himalayan
range. Many vendors at the summit offering photographic opportunities to Chinese tourists to
sit on a yak, or stand by mastiff dogs. Amazing.
We drove around the lake and passed a second lake near the
village of Nagarze before ascending a second pass Karo La. We
began to see several peaks with icefields as S307 ascended
between the dramatic summits of Kalurong 6674 m / 21896 ft
to the south and to the north Noijin Kangsang Peak 7191
m(23,586 ft) the highest peak of Lhagoi Kangri mountain
range. The foothills were covered in brown grass contrasting
with the glaciated summits which reminded me of the Andes at higher elevations. Here we
came upon a group of Bharal sheep that were grazing near the highway, a small herd consisting
of one young ram and the remainder ewes and lambs.
We reached Karo La pass 5060m (16,596 ft), with a shrine covered with prayer flags, an
amazing place with tremendous views of Noijin Kangsang Peak 7191 m/23,586 f with its large
glacier spilling waterfalls at its broad hanging terminus from Karo La was the site of the highest
Shrines and tourist parking area Karo la pass (5040m) on the way to Gyantse
battlefield of the 20th century war with the British. The Karo La cuts a path between Himalayan
glaciers. A fast descent past a melting glacier on the right leads to a beautiful, green valley
peppered with small Tibetan villages, with peaks in the near distance. This was such a beautiful
day through Tibetan landscape filled with grass steppes and ice-covered mountains.
We descended steep switchbacks into the Nyan Qu river floodplain that flows north to the
Yarlung Tsangpo, and finally reached the city of Gyantse Kumbu. What dominated this small city
Gyantse view, Gyantse Kumbum Buddhist temple
was Gyantse Dzong (Fort) perched on a rock outcropping with surviving red clay walls. The
massive hilltop military fort is one of the best preserved “dzong” (fortress) remaining in Tibet.
Built in 1390, the fort looks as though it has grown straight out of the rocky hillside, presiding
over both old and new Gyantse. In this town remnants of old Tibet can still be found, and I was
fortunate to see one of the oldest streets in Gyantse which had not yet been newly concreted
over. Along the old street, cows were tied outside front doors, as the bottom floor of traditional
Tibetan houses is left specifically for their animals. Puppies and stray dogs roamed calmly down
the quiet street, scattering the hay beneath their paws, and the relative silence was broken only
by the closing of a squeaky door, or the occasional mooing of a cow in the wild Tibetan plateau.
I learned about the source of the many monk dance styles that initially came from a ruler in the
10th century. He desired to raise funds to build rope bridges across the many rivers in Tibet to
interconnect communities, and started opera dancing selecting the most beautiful girls in lhaka.
The performers wore masks and elaborate costumes, creaging and performing dances that
depicted some of Tibetan history. It later developed in a style of opera dancing that is
Gyantse residents I market, pilgrimage at small temple, man with a traditional instrument dramyin, a long-
necked, double-waisted and fretless lute.
celebrated in the yogurt festival, and incorporated into the religious Buddhist dances, including
the mask dance I saw in Benzilan, Yunnan.
DAY 5 May 17 Friday Drove 2 hours from Gyantse to Shigatse. In the morning toured Gyantse,
a small town that has escaped much of the Chinese effect of the cultural war evident in other
major Tibetan towns. Located strategically in the Nyang Chu valley, Gyantse was once part of an
ancient trade route from the Chumbi Valley, Yatung and Sikkim. From Gyantse, trade routes led
south to Shigatse and also over the Karo La into Central Tibet. The Gyantse Dzong (fort), built in
1390, guarded the southern approaches to the Yarlung Tsangpo Valley and Lhasa, and the town
was surrounded by a long, protective wall 3 kilometers in length. Part of this wall still survives
and is a dramatic backdrop. Gyantse was once the third largest city in Tibet but was overtaken
by Young husband and the British in 1904. During the fierce battle, Tibetan forces fought the
British for most of two months with dire consequences for both sides. We also visited the
Kumbum (or Pango Chorten) Buddhist temple built in 1444 on a series of four levels, each of
which contains separate chapels. Kumbum, translated as ‘100,000 images’.
Leaving Gyantse, we drove along beautiful Ra Chu River passing through fertile farmland where
wheat and barley are grown, with popular trees planted to stabilize the soil. Driving past many
new Tibetan villages, the short 90-minute drive brought us to the dusty, busy market town of
Shigatse 4012m (13,160 ft), again joining G318 the Friendship highway. There is a statue of the
dancing and singing Tibetans just before reaching the town where we stopped for a fantastic
lunch café run by two young Chinese owners. Great vegetables including corn, bok Choy,
chicken and bean/garlic, carrots and chicken. Great to eat so healthy as I have always loved
Sichuan food with vegetables and meat cooked in ginger, brown rice vinegar, sesame oil and
Sichuan chilies.
We were now directly north of the Kanchenjunga Range in the Nepal Himalaya. We arrived at
Shigatse, the second largest city in Tibet and is the former capital of the traditional Tibetan
region of Tsang at an elevation of 3845 meters/12,615 feet. It is becoming a modern city with
Shigatse with Fort (J. York Himalayan Journeys), Shigatse
Chinese construction of business and apartments for a population of over 100,000. The main
attraction here is the Tashilhunpo Monastery, one of the 6 main monasteries of the Yellow Hat
Sect of Tibetan Buddhism founded in 1447. Tashilhunpo Monastery is the home monastery of
the line of Panchen Lamas, the most influential line of lama’s in Tibet after the Dalai
Lama. Tashilhunpo is a major pilgrimage destination for Tibetans from across the plateau.
DAY 6-7 May 18-19 Drive from Shigatse to Shekar (Tingri) 4355 meters 6 hours. Began the day
thinking I had used toothpaste last night and after looking at the tube more carefully realized I
used my banana republic sunscreen for toothpaste haha. Now I will have UV protected teeth all
day. Had a fantastic breakfast of potatoes, eggs, and ham loaf, and made tsampa for the group.
Took a bowl and added the barley flower, water, yak butter and milk and mashed it together.
Not many partook of my effort to prepare a traditional Tibetan food. Great buffet breakfast.
Tingri and the Tingri Shekar Dzongshegar (ancient fort) Jamin York (Himalayan Journeys)
Old Tingri: Yak used for plowing field for potatoes, Horse racing festival Old Tingri, 2007 (H Jans) Below: Old fort several hundred years old outside of Tingri
We left under clear skies
and drove west,
enjoying view as we
ascended through a well
cultivated flatland valley
of rich soil where oxen
were pulling plows as the locals were preparing to plant barley. We drove along G318 the
Friendship Highway and drove west for several hours until we came to the town of Lhatse
elevation 4025 m/13,205 ft along the banks of the Yarlung Tsampo River. The friendship
highway continued southwest a further 80 km/50 mi to the town of Baibacun or Babar, the last
town of size before entering the Everest Nature Reserve where we stayed overnight. Tingri, also
known as Shegar 4355 m (14289 ft) is located about 10 km (6 mi) north on a small tributary of
the Phung chu river.
We left Babar and Tingri early the next morning and continued west along the friendship
highway until we came to a checkpoint 8 km (5 mi) for Everest Base Camp (EBC) on the
southern Zhufeng Road junction. So many checkpoints and we stopped at the first village Chay,
about 3 km (2 mi) from the highway where our guide registered our entry. We ascended steep
switchbacks through sienna-gold grass-covered mountains with steeply folded sedimentary
rock and granitic intrusions of metamorphosed gneiss. Long switchbacks leading to the top of
Gawula Pass (Pang La) 5198 m (17049 ft) where I was absolutely awed by the clear weather and
a breathtaking mountain panorama. The entire Himalayan Range from Makalu west to Lhotse
(4th highest), Everest, Gyachung Kheng (15th highest) and Cho Oyu (6th highest) to the right
(west) and further west Shishapangma 8,027 m (26,335 ft), 14th highest mountain in the world
and located completely in Tibet. There was a large peak to the further west we couldn’t
identify. This was an amazing view and I had hoped to see Mt Everest, now fulfilled with
scattered clouds at the base. Very strong cold wind coming from the north south from the
peaks. The summit had many vendors and a mass of prayer flags, a stop for Chinese tourists on
Above: left to right Kachenjunga, Makalu, Lhotse/Everest (ctr), Chom Oyu far right; Below: Everest and Lhotse
the way to Rongbuk. Below us at the base of the foothills was the floodplain of the Zhaga chu,
tributary that flows west then south into the Phung Chu, the source of the Arun River in Nepal.
From the pass we descended a large number of switchbacks back to the valley floor and the
village of to Zhaxizongcun (Zhaxizongxiang) and the river Zhaga Chu that flows south eventually
into the Phung Chu. Turning right or west would take us to Rongbuk and the base of Mt Everest
north face. We turned left or west on a road that descended the Phung Chu along the Rongphu
Valley that took us east leading to the village of Kharta, the administrative headquarters of the
region. The road had just been paved this year and led through beautiful canyons of steep,
almost barren hillsides and knife-like peaks that reminded me of the eastern Chilcotin’s and the
Lillooet River in B.C., Canada. Finally, the paved road ended in gravel where there was bridge
and new road construction in Yuba. We headed still upriver and finally camped above the
nearby village of Yuba. Below Phung Chur River and the Kharta Valley, which is the source of Arun R Nepal
Phung Chu River entering into the Kharta Valley to the right; Bottom: Phung Chu Valley junction with Kharta R
Above: Kharta Village and Tibetan villager guiding sheep from a yak pasture; Below base camp Kharta village
At the edge of the gravel road we camped inside
a stone fenced and small Tibetan hut. Birgh
Singh checked on the permits and bad news. We
discovered that night from the Tibetan guard
proclamation by the Chinese local officials that
Shaola pass was closed because of deep snow.
The unusual cyclone that hit India and the
eastern Himalayas a month preceding our trip
hit the Makalu area very hard with deep snows, and we were now blocked. The local official
said that 6 Chinese lives with 2 yak herders were lost several years ago in a snowstorm, and
they didn’t want to risk tourists live. I could only hope for at least good views at Shaola la, but
then would have to turn around.
KHARTA VALLEY
Phung chu River, source of the water gap and Arun River: left looking upstream to Nepal through the cut
between Makalu and Kanchenjunga, Right looking upstream source 100km away from west of Tingri
Traditional Tibetan stone homes that survived the 2012 earthquake, New homes constructed with stone and
concrete that are better designed by the Chinese
Modern Tibetan style built by Chinese government help with stone and concrete that will survive earthquakes.
Juniper stored on top of home for burning incense during festivals
Tibetans working both plowing fields for potatoe, and sowing barley seeds. There are sentinals that use ancient
style slings they fill with a rock to hurl sup to 200 meters at birds settling to get at the new seed.
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