Overview, formulation and trends of color cosmetics

Color cosmetics and makeup productsOverview, Formula composition, trends and innovation

Dr.Naphatsorn KumarSchool of Cosmetic Science, MFU

naphatsorn.kum@mfu.ac.th

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Outline• Overview of color cosmetics

• Formula composition

• Trends and innovation for makeup products

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Introduction• Makeup products are used since

ancient time• For improving appearance, sun

protection and medical applications

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Ancient Asia

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Advances in makeup products

• Advances in pigments research– New optical properties give distinctive look

• Advances in ingredients– Polymers that have distinctive feel

• Functional makeup– Combination of makeup and care– Alphabet products: AA, BB, CC, DD, EE,

etc.(Image source: Google Images)

Formulation• Pigments play a major roles• Classification of pigments– Organic pigment–Mineral pigment: Titanium dioxide and

iron oxides– Nacreous pigment

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Organic pigments• Only those that allowed by FDA• Organic pigments are created by the

precipitation reaction of soluble dye with some minerals such as aluminium and calcium hydroxides

• Called “Lakes”

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Nacreous pigments• or Pearlescents• Create frosted appearance• Divided into 3 classes– Guanine or Natural pearl essences from

fish scale– Bismuth oxychloride: Metallic look–Mica and surface-treated mica

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Spring/Summer 2015 color trends

(Roberts, 2015)

Fall winter 2015/2016 Color trends

• Nude tone

• Face contouring

• Soft focus

• “Enhance rather than erase”

(Harrington and Dobos, 2015)

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Base makeup• or Face makeup• Helps make skin look natural and

beautiful• Masks imperfections on skin• New pigments: pigments that coated

with silicone or fluoride oil will give specific sensory profile, some pigments have auto-adaptive effect with can adjust to light

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Importance of Base makeups

(www.allnaturalskincare.com)

Foundations• Dosage forms: liquid, gel, cream,

solid cream, stick, cake, mousse• Popular foundations: o/w, si/w, oil-

free, water-free (anhydrous)• Dosage form vs skin types– o/w and si/w: normal and oily– w/o and w/si: dry and normal– Oil-free: oily– Anhydrous: concealing effect

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Products

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• Common pigments:–Mica: transperent, glow– Titanium dioxide: good covering, UV

protection but hard feel– Silica: oil control

• A surface treated pigments: give extra sensory and special characteristics– Silicone treated: smooth feel but lipid

miscible will collapse when contact with skin sebum

– Perfluoroalkyl phosphate and fluoro compounds treated: excellent oil and water repellency

– Polymer coated: for UV protection

Face powders• Provide coverage

complexion of imperfections, oil control, matte finished and smoothness

• Provides long lasting effect and absorbing extra oil from foundations

• Face powders: loose powder and compact powder

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Face powder ingredients• Talc and Serecite: spreadability• Chalk and Kaolin: absorbability• Magnesium stearate: adherence• Zinc oxide and Titanium oxide:

coverage• Pigments: color• Mica: improve skin feel, product

adhesion and skin adhesion• Nylon and Polyamide: improve skin

feel

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Functional base makeup• Barrier improving makeup: contain

ceramides• Moisturizer makeup: moisturizing

ingredients• Anti-aging makeup: antioxidants,

anti-wrinkle agents• Sun protection: sunscreens• Whitening and lightening

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Physicians formula Youthful wear spotless foundation SPF15Sunscreen: Octinoxate 3% Others: Isododecane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Dimethicone, Mica, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Acrylates/Polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Cyclopentasiloxane, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate, Ribes Nigrum Seed Oil, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Ceramide 3, Olive Glycerides, Sodium Hyaluronate, Nylon-12, Polyamide-5, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Alcohol, Benzyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Dehydroacetic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Hexylene Glycol, Octyldodecanol, Octyldodecyl Oleate, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate, Polysilicone -11, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Solidago Virgaurea Extract, Propylene Carbonate, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Water, Phenoxyethanol. May Contain: Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides

Photogenic pigmentsHylamide Photography foundationFractionated Blurring Silica Suspension• Nano fractions of silica-

based prisms create light confusion for reduced visible lines and pores immediately without looking like traditional makeup, while specifically creating a perfect backdrop to highlight facial features through the camera lens

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Products in trends• Mousse texture in jar

• Mousse spray

• Cushion

• Spray

• Photogenic/Photoready

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Cushions

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Next cushion = Air cushion

(Yonwoo Co Ltd.)

Air cushion from Korea

For ingredients: http://asianskincareblog.blogspot.com/2014/12/sum37-air-rising-tf-dazzling-cushion.html

Next step: Metal cushion

su:m 37 air rising TF glow cover metal cushionVDL beauty metal cushion foundation

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Blusher

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Point makeup• Lip products• Eye products

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Lipsticks• Consist of oils, waxes and pigments

+ other ingredients• Waxes will give hardness to lipsticks

and adhesive effect to skin• Oils will give slippery and soft effect

on application• Pigments:– Titanium dioxide: give opacity, intensity

and coverage– Pearlescent: give color highlight

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Matte vs Gloss lipsticks• For matte lipsticks– Talc, Nylon, Silica,

Polymethylmethacrylates are useful for matte look

• For gloss lipsticks– High level of waxy substances

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Functional lipstick and lip care products

• Lipsticks that contain peptides that exert plumping effects

• Some are contain blood circulations stimulants

ExamplesDuwop Lip venomHydrogenated Polyisobutane, Jojoba (Simmondsia Chinensis) Seed Oil, Avocado (Persea Gratissma) Oil, Flavor (Aroma)*, Propylparaben, Benzyl Alcohol, Linalool, Red 6 Lake (Cl 15850)

* Claimed that it is cinnamon

ExamplesMD formulation The Temps Perfecting Lip PlumperHydrogenated Polyisobutene, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Fruit, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Ozokerite Wax, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Ethyl Hexyl Palmitate, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Menthoxypropanediol, Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Oil, Squalene, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Tribehenin, Sorbitan, Isostearate, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate, Atelocollagen, Vanillyl Butyl Ether, Flavor

Trends in lip makeups• Matte lip liquid

• Duo or Trio colors lipstick

• Lip tint in oil (Tint-in-oil lipgloss)

• Color changing lipstick

• Lip tattoo (wrapping tint)

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YSL Tint-in-oil Lip glossConsists of apricot kernel oil, coriander fruit oil, jojoba seed oil and Passiflora edulis seed oil

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Eye products• Eye products required extra care • Prevention of contamination which

may lead to the eye infection

• For eyeshadows: their formula compositions is comparable to face powder, with smaller pigment size and wider color range

• For eyeliner: usually comes in liquid, with extra-fine pigment size

Eye trends• Metallics are the element to luxury

look• New palettes usually contain metallic

shade

Novel eyeshadowRice starch eyeshadow from Youngblood Mineral CosmeticsIngredients:

Mica (CI 77019), Zinc Stearate, Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride, Lauroyl Lysine, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch, Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Lonicera caprifolium Flower Extract, Lonicera japonica Flower Extract. May Contain: Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), Carmine (CI 75470), Ultramarines (CI 77007), Chromium Oxide Greens (CI 77288), Manganese Violet (CI 77742), Bismuth Oxychloride (CI 77163), Ferric Ferrocyanide (CI 77510), Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5 Lake (CI 42090).

Mascara• Special product with particular

development• Choice of mascara depends on types

of eyelashes and the require effects• Formulations can be water-based,

solvent-based and hybrids

• Film-former is the important ingredient in mascara, as its film will thicken, lengthen, or darken the eyelashes, according to the film-former types

Functional mascara• Lash stimulator mascara with

Biotinoyl tripeptide-1• Example: Clarins Be-long mascara

IngredientsWater, Glyceryl stearate, Microcrystalline wax, Carnuaba wax, Castor oil, Stearic acid, Butylene glycol, Pentylene glycol, VP/Hexadecene copolymer, Palmitic acid, Acrylates copolymer, Polyvinyl alcohol, Glycerin, Aminomethyl propanediol, Sodium dehydroacetate, Panthenol, Biotinoyl tripeptide-1 CI77491, CI77492, CI77493, CI77891, CI77510, CI77742, CI77007, CI77163, CI77289, CI77288, CI42090, CI19140

References• Harrington L and Dobos KA. (2015). Beauty trends for

fall/winter 2015-2016. GCI September 2015;30-32.• Korichi R and Trachant J-F. (2014). Decorative

products in In Barel AO, Paye M and Maibach HI. eds. Handbook of cosmetic science and technology, 4th ed. pp. 439-451.

• Mason S. (2015). The color essentials. GCI January/February 2015:18-21.

• Mohiuddin O. (2014) Color cosmetics Trending toward multifunctionality. Cosm & Toil 129(1):18-20.

• Rigano L. (2014). Cheek to cheek: deciphering stains and blushes. Cosm & Toil 129(1):54-59.

• Roberts R. (2015). Spring/summer 2015 Color trends. GCI January/February 2015;22-24.