formulation guidelines full spectrum · formulation guidelines 4 simple steps to hair color formulation Always remember to patch test before every hair color application. 1. Identify

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RED

O

RANG

E YELLOW GREEN BLUE VIOLET

Dark Y/O Dark B/G Dark B/V Dark R/V

Dar

k R/R

D

ark

R/O

Light B/B

Light V/B

L

ight

O/R

Light Y/O

formulation guidelines4 simple steps to hair color formulationAlways remember to patch test before every hair color application.1. Identify the guest’s natural level.2. Determine the guest’s desired level and tone.3. Choose the formula at the desired level. Full spectrum™ deposit-only color treatment

does not lift.4. Choose the desired viscosity of the formula and the appropriate full spectrum™

deposit-only color treatment activator: • Liquid activator: for bottle applications • Creme activator: for bowl and brush or bottle applications

mixingAlways mix natural series, pure bases and universal ØN in a 1:1 ratio with liquid or creme color treatment activator. Do not adjust for the addition of pure tones.

applicationApply deposit-only color treatment formula from scalp-to-ends.

processingAllow deposit-only color treatment to process for up to 20 minutes at room temperature.

removalRinse thoroughly. Shampoo with color conserve™ shampoo. Condition with color conserve™ pHinish.™

botanical therapyA botanical therapy hair treatment is an essential part of a hair color service. Apply it as a luxurious post-treatment immediately after rinsing color conserve™ pHinish™ from the hair to deliver maximum condition and shine.

Spray the selected dry remedy™ penetrating moisture or damage remedy™ penetrating protein onto damp hair section-by-section. Process at room temperature for 5 minutes. Rinse with cool water and style as desired.

full spectrum™

deposit-only color treatmentDiscover the surprising power of botanicals in full spectrum™ deposit-only color treatment. Our gentle, ammonia-free formula is up to 99% naturally derived*— using plant power instead of petrochemicals — to actually improve the condition of damaged hair, adding beautiful shine. The rich color lasts for up to 8 weeks, gradually fading on tone. Guests love the rosy lavender aroma, which transforms each color service into a soothing sensory experience. You can create any color you want with our innovative system — combining natural series, pure bases, universal ØN and pure tones to create endless shades of possibility. Plus, full spectrum™ is created with an environmental and social conscience that you and your guests can feel good about.

3 ways to use full spectrum™ deposit-only color treatment 1. Grey Blending (to blend up to 50% grey).

2. Color Balancing, Glossing and Toning (to even out color, add shine or provide tone).

3. Precoloration (when desired shade is 3 or more levels darker than previously colored hair).

designed to customizeFull spectrum™ hair color was designed for ultimate customization through a simple component system of base + tone.

FIRST SELECT YOUR DESIRED BASE

natural series: Natural shades that can be used alone or customized with pure tones for a complete range of tonal families.

light and dark pure base: Designed to achieve the most vibrant red color results. Select light pure base for levels 7–10 and dark pure base for levels 3–6.

full spectrum™ universal ØN: A virtually colorless, ammonia-free base that can be mixed with any base or tone. It enhances hair with incredible condition and shine for the ideal glossing treatment.

NEXT CUSTOMIZE YOUR BASE WITH TONE

pure tones: A combination of primary and secondary tones that can be used to customize multiple bases to create a range of tonal families.

*From plants and non-petroleum minerals.

BASE + + =TONE COLOR TREATMENT ACTIVATOR CREME OR

LIQUID

HAIR COLOR FORMULA

2299-015

DEPOSIT-ONLY COLOR TREATMENT HAIR COLOR CHART

aLEVEL DESCRIPTOR NATURAL REMAINING PIGMENT COMPLEMENTARY PIGMENT

10 Lightest Blonde Pale YellowViolet

9 Very Light Blonde Yellow

8 Light Blonde Yellow/Orange Blue/Violet

7 Medium Blonde Orange Blue

6 Dark Blonde Red/Orange Blue/Green

5 Lightest Brown

Red Green4 Light Brown

3 Medium Brown

2 Dark Brown

1 Black

full spectrum™ deposit-only color treatmentcolor wheel

L I G HT P U R E TO N E S FO R LE VEL S 7– 10

DAR K P U R E TO N E S FO R LE VEL S 3 – 6

L I G H T V I O L E T/ B L U E DA R K B L U E / V I O L E T

L I G H T B L U E / B L U E DA R K B L U E /G R E E N

L I G H T Y E L LO W/O R A N G E DA R K Y E L LO W/O R A N G E

L I G H T O R A N G E / R E D DA R K R E D/O R A N G E

DA R K R E D/ R E D

DA R K R E D/ V I O L E T

1:1 ratio

natural series customization intense series customization

level tone natural ash intense ash gold copper red/violet red/red pure bases intense copper intense red/violet intense red/red

ø universal øNcustomizable colorless base Universal øN is recommended for customization with all Bases and Pure Tones

lig

ht

10

Not recommended for customization Not recommended for customization

10Natural lightest blonde

10 V/B lightest ash blonde

40 g 10Natural2 g Light Violet/Blue

10 B/Blightest intense ash blonde

40 g 10Natural2 g Light Blue/Blue

10 Y/O lightest golden blonde

40 g 10Natural2 g Light Yellow/Orange

10 O/R lightest copper blonde

40 g 10Natural2 g Light Orange/Red

10 O/Rlightest intense copper blonde

40 g Light Pure Base4 g Light Orange/Red

99Natural

very light blonde

9 V/Bvery light ash blonde


9 B/Bvery light intense ash blonde


9 Y/O very light golden blonde


9 O/R very light copper blonde


9 O/Rvery light intense copper blonde


88Natural

light blonde

8 V/Blight ash blonde


8 B/Blight intense ash blonde


8 Y/O light golden blonde


8 O/R light copper blonde


8 O/Rlight intense copper blonde


77Natural

medium blonde

7 V/Bmedium ash blonde


7 B/Bmedium intense ash blonde


7 Y/O medium golden blonde


7 O/R medium copper blonde


light pure base7 O/R

medium intense copper blonde40 g Light Pure Base

16 g Light Orange/Red

light pure tones light pure tones*

light violet/blue light blue/blue light yellow/orange lightlight orange/red light orange/red

dar

k

66Natural

dark blonde

6 B/Vdark ash blonde

40 g 6Natural2 g Dark Blue/Violet

6 B/Gdark intense ash blonde

40 g 6Natural2 g Dark Blue/Green

6 Y/O dark golden blonde

40 g 6Natural2 g Dark Yellow/Orange

6 R/O dark copper blonde

40 g 6Natural2 g Dark Red/Orange

6 R/V lightest red/violet

40 g 6Natural2 g Dark Red/Violet

6 R/R lightest red/red

40 g 6Natural2 g Dark Red/Red

6 R/Odark intense copper blonde

40 g Dark Pure Base4 g Dark Red/Orange

6 R/Vlightest intense red/violet

40 g Dark Pure Base4 g Dark Red/Violet

6 R/Rlightest intense red/red

40 g Dark Pure Base4 g Dark Red/Red

55Natural

lightest brown

5 B/Vlightest ash brown


5 B/Glightest intense ash brown


5 Y/O lightest golden brown


5 R/O lightest copper brown


5 R/V very light red/violet


5 R/R very light red/red


5 R/Olightest intense copper brown


5 R/Vvery light intense red/violet


5 R/R very light intense red/red


44Natural

light brown

4 B/Vlight ash brown


4 B/Glight intense ash brown


4 Y/O light golden brown


4 R/O light copper brown


4 R/V light red/violet


4 R/R light red/red40 g 4Natural

6 g Dark Red/Red

4 R/Olight intense copper brown


4 R/V light intense red/violet


4 R/R light intense red/red40 g Dark Pure Base12 g Dark Red/Red

33Natural

medium brown

3 B/Vmedium ash brown


3 B/Gmedium intense ash brown


3 Y/O medium golden brown


3 R/O medium copper brown


3 R/V medium red/violet


3 R/R medium red/red


dark pure base3 R/O

medium intense copper brown40 g Dark Pure Base

16 g Dark Red/Orange

3 R/V medium intense red/violet


3 R/R medium intense red/red


dark pure tones dark pure tones* * *

dark blue/violet dark blue/green dark yellow/orange dark red/orange dark red/violet dark red/red dark red/orange dark red/violet dark red/red

2

Not recommended for customization

2Natural dark brown

11Natural

black

*Same as pure tones used for natural series customization.

full spectrum™ deposit-only color treatment customization mixing chart full spectrum™ deposit-only color treatment guidelines

questions? Call the Aveda Technical Hotline at 1-888-HAIR-SØS (424-7707) USA.

color balancingColor balancing is often required after a permanent hair color retouch application to even out the color from new growth to ends. If hair has lost tone or lightened 2–3 levels, reestablish color.

REESTABLISH COLOR

1. Apply desired full spectrum™ permanent formula to the new growth.

2. At mid-lengths and ends, apply the matching deposit-only color treatment shade in a 1:1 ratio with full spectrum™ color treatment activator — liquid or creme.

3. Process for the last 20 minutes of the retouch processing time.

4. Rinse thoroughly.

toningTONING PRELIGHTENED HAIR

Toning the hair occurs after prelightening or as the second step in a double process.

FORMULATION1. Determine the stage of enlightenment achieved.

2. Determine the desired tone to refine or enhance.

• To refine Natural Remaining Pigment (N.R.P.): select natural, ash or intense ash shades.

• To enhance N.R.P.: select gold or copper shades.

3. Select a full spectrum™ shade at the level of the stage of enlightenment achieved.

.

precoloration guidelinesWhen a client’s desired shade is 3 or more levels darker than the previously colored hair, it may be necessary to precolor the hair. Precoloration provides the Natural Remaining Pigment (N.R.P.) required to support the desired shade. Use full spectrum™ deposit-only color treatment and universal ØN customizable base when precoloring hair.

1. formulation: Identify the client’s natural level and the level and tone of the colored hair. Determine the desired level and tone. Select the appropriate precoloration formula based on the desired level.

2. mixing: Dispense the recommended amount of deposit-only color treatment natural series, universal ØN, pure tone and developer into a non-metallic mixing bowl or applicator bottle. Mix thoroughly.

3. equalizing: Spray on damage remedy™ equalizing solution and comb through.

4. application: Section dry, unwashed hair into quadrants. Take 1/4" partings and apply only to hair strands that are 3 or more levels lighter than the desired result.

5. processing: Process at room temperature for 15–20 minutes.6. removal: Rinse the precoloration formula thoroughly from the hair. Shampoo

lightly with color conserve™ shampoo.7. recolor: Towel-dry hair. Apply desired shade of full spectrum™ permanent

hair color with 20 volume color catalyst™ creme developer. Process for 30 minutes.

natural series guidelines for mixingFor natural results with a wide spectrum of tonal families, mix natural shade + pure tone.

40grams

NATURAL SERIES SHADE

LIGHT OR DARK PURE TONES

COLORTREATMENT

ACTIVATOR 1:1 RATIO

TOTAL COLOR MIXTURE

10Natural6Natural 40 g + 2 g + 40 ml = 82 ml9Natural5Natural 40 g + 4 g + 40 ml = 84 ml8Natural4Natural 40 g + 6 g + 40 ml = 86 ml7Natural3Natural 40 g + 8 g + 40 ml = 88 ml

intense series guidelines for mixingFor vibrant red color results, mix light or dark pure base + double the recommended amount of copper, red/red or red/violet pure tone for the level.

40grams

LIGHT PURE BASE (levels 7–10)

DARK PURE BASE (levels 3–6)

LIGHT OR DARK PURE TONES

(O/R, R/O, R/R, R/V)

COLORTREATMENT ACTIVATOR 1:1 RATIO

TOTAL COLOR MIXTURE

10Natural6Natural 40 g + 4 g + 40 ml = 84 ml9Natural5Natural 40 g + 8 g + 40 ml = 88 ml8Natural4Natural 40 g + 12 g + 40 ml = 92 ml7Natural3Natural 40 g + 16 g + 40 ml = 96 ml

universal ØNUniversal ØN is designed for use with all three full spectrum™ hair color lines — permanent, deep and deposit-only color treatment — for ultimate customization. When using the formulas in the chart below, mix with full spectrum™ color treatment activator — liquid or creme.

UNIVERSAL ØN CUSTOMIZATION GUIDE

CATEGORYBASE TONE

UNIVERSAL ØN NATURAL SERIES PURE TONE

SOFT(color refreshing or glossing treatment)

40 g + 0–8 g

STANDARD(toning prelightened hair or

toning down)20 g 20 g + 0–8 g

STRONG(clear tone) 40 g + 10–20 g

grey blendingFull spectrum™ deposit-only color treatment is ideal for blending up to 50% grey. Use the chart and swatches below as a guide to accurately identify the percentage of grey hair. Refer to the Deposit-Only Color Treatment Customization Chart for formulas. If men’s grey blending is desired, refer to the Men’s Natural Grey Blending Chart below. It is recommended to use full spectrum™ permanent hair color when grey coverage is desired.

PERCENTAGE OF GREY

25% 50% 75%

STAGE OF ENLIGHTENMENT (N.R.P.)

REFINEMENT ENHANCEMENT

PALE YELLOW

Natural: 10N Ash: 10 V/B

Intense Ash: 10 B/B

Gold: 10 Y/OCopper: 10 O/R

YELLOW


Intense Ash: 9 B/B


YELLOW/ORANGE


Intense Ash: 8 B/B


damage remedy™ equalizing solutionPretreating the hair before a hair color service greatly reduces the risk of damage. Damage remedy™ equalizing solution is a professional, intensive liquid treatment used on the day of the hair color service.

BENEFITS

· Strengthens, repairs and evens porosity in damaged hair prior to the service.

· Protects weak, delicate hair during processing.

· Improves the hair’s resistance to breakage.

PRESERVICE TREATMENT

1. Shampoo hair lightly with Aveda hair detoxifier shampoo.

2. Spray 1 oz/30 ml of damage remedy™ equalizing solution on the hair. Comb through to distribute evenly. Cover with a plastic bag.

3. Process for 5 minutes under the dryer on medium heat.

4. Rinse thoroughly (no shampoo).

5. Dry the hair.

6. Apply hair color according to directions.

LEAVE-IN TREATMENT DURING HAIR COLOR SERVICE

1. Shampoo hair lightly with Aveda hair detoxifier shampoo.

2. Spray 1 oz/30 ml of damage remedy™ equalizing solution on the hair. Comb through to distribute evenly.

3. Dry into the hair.

4. Apply hair color according to directions.

color conserve™

Help your guests extend the vibrancy of their color treatment outside the salon with our 3-step color conserve™ system: shampoo, conditioner and daily color protect. Shades stay richer and hair stays shinier for longer with sun filters derived from cinnamon bark and wintergreen and gentle cleansing derived from certified organic babassu nut. Guests enjoy our aroma of organic lavender, ylang ylang and other pure flower and plant essences. Once a week give hair strength and shine with color conserve™ strengthening treatment.

color balancing, glossing and toningUse the chart below to create customized color balancing, glossing and toning formulas to achieve your guest’s desired result. All formulas should be mixed with full spectrum™ color treatment activator liquid or creme.

COLOR BALANCING, GLOSSING AND TONING GUIDE

CATEGORYBASE TONE

NATURAL SERIES UNIVERSAL ØN PURE TONE

LEAST TRANSLUCENT

MOST TRANSLUCENT

color balance 40 g + standard for level

natural tonal gloss 20 g 20 g + standard for level

extreme gloss 20 g + 20 g

tonal gloss 40 g + 8 g

clear gloss 40 g.

TARGET TONE(FULL SPECTRUM™ PERMANENT HAIR COLOR)

TARGET LEVEL

NATURAL, ASH & GOLDLIGHT COPPER, DARK

COPPER, RED & VIOLET/RED

INTENSE LIGHT COPPER, DARK COPPER, RED

& VIOLET/RED

FULL SPECTRUM™ DEPOSIT-ONLY COLOR TREATMENT PRECOLORATION FORMULAS

10 N/A

9 20 g 9N + 20 g ØN + 4 g Light Y/O

20 g 9N + 20 g ØN+ 4 g Light O/R


8 20 g 8N + 20 g ØN+ 6 g Light Y/O


10 g 8N + 30 g ØN+ 12 g Light O/R

7 20 g 7N + 20 g ØN+ 8 g Light Y/O


10 g 7N + 30 g ØN+ 16 g Light O/R

6 20 g 6N + 20 g ØN+ 1 g Dark Y/O + 1 g Dark R/O

20 g 6N + 20 g ØN+ 4 g Dark R/O, Dark R/R or

Dark R/V


Dark R/V



Dark R/V


Dark R/V



Dark R/V


Dark R/V

3–1 20 g 3N + 20 g ØN+ 4 g Dark Y/O + 4 g Dark R/O


Dark R/V


Dark R/V

MEN’S NATURAL GREY BLENDING FORMULASLIGHT (levels 6–7) MEDIUM (levels 4–5) DARK (levels 2–3)

Light Natural Brown20 g 6Natural Dark Blonde

Medium Natural Brown20 g 4Natural Light Brown

Dark Natural Brown20 g 2Natural Dark Brown

Light Cool Brown20 g 6Natural Dark Blonde

2 g Dark Blue/Violet

Medium Cool Brown20 g 4Natural Light Brown

1 g Dark Blue/Green

Dark Cool Brown20 g 2Natural Dark Brown

2 g Dark Blue/Green

Documents

formulation guidelines full spectrum · formulation guidelines 4 simple steps to hair color formulation Always remember to patch test before every hair color application. 1. Identify